How to embed a pipe into a metal tile. How to make a chimney pipe pass through a metal roof? External apron system in the area adjacent to the chimney pipe

One of the most difficult construction operations is bypassing a pipe with metal tiles. It is quite difficult to walk around objects (including a chimney) during the construction of a rafter system and installation of roofing. Only experienced craftsmen undertake this. It is by the quality of the chimney bypass that the competence of the roofer is usually determined. In this case, it is very important to ensure the waterproofness of this area and the integrity of the coating near the pipe.

The process of bypassing a pipe with metal tiles is one of the most complex construction operations, and therefore is carried out by professionals.

During the work process, you should carefully and carefully take measurements and work with metal tiles, trying to avoid damage. It is worth noting that such “obstacles” exist and have existed on all types of roofing, so roofers had to solve such problems very often. Over the entire long history of construction, the technology for bypassing chimneys has been developed. Separately, we note the fact that each roofing material has its own bypass technology. How to properly bypass chimneys and ventilation hoods when installing tiles will be discussed below.

Difficulties in flow around pipes

During the installation of the roof, when laying roofing material around the pipe, it must be remembered that the roof must perform the following functions:

1. Prevent moisture from accumulating near the pipe and ensure its removal. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the roof area is waterproof.
2. Particular attention should be paid to the junction of the roof and pipe. Since water can flow down the walls of the pipe structure, it is necessary to carefully waterproof this area. This should also include preventing the formation of condensation on the brick chimney pipe (since the latter will heat up).

At the same time, sections of metal tiles adjacent to the chimney, ventilation pipes and other technological outlets are considered the most difficult to seal on the roof. If they are not sealed, this will lead to the absorption of moisture by the thermal insulation (this will cause rotting of the material and a decrease in insulating properties), the rafter system (the wood will begin to rot, the service life of the structure will be reduced), and deterioration of air circulation due to the appearance of condensation.

To solve these problems of creating sealed zones near outlet technological structures, special attention should be paid in advance (during design) to where the passages under the pipes will be made.

It should be remembered that the height of the chimney and ventilation holes depends on their location on the slopes. So, the pipes should be 0.5 m above the ridge. The best option for the location of ventilation outlets and the chimney is the exit at the ridge beam. With this arrangement of pipes, much less sediment accumulates on them, which greatly facilitates the work of sealing them.

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Points of connection of the coating to the chimney

A device for connecting the roofing covering to chimney pipes was developed specifically for metal tiles. It is usually called an apron. Laying (installing) such a device requires some preparatory work. To do this, add additional sheathing near the chimney; you should also prepare metal tiles (cut the sheets) and lay sealing layers on the sheathing.

When the preparatory work is completed and the chimney has been successfully removed, they begin to seal the junction of the roof and the pipe. Such work is divided into several stages. The first is the installation of internal protective devices (aprons). Next, metal tiles are mounted on it. After which the outer apron is installed.

If you install the apron yourself, then you should prepare some tools: discs for the grinder and the tool itself, hammers (wooden and regular), means for applying markings (meters, rulers, levels, felt-tip pens, pencils, etc.). Next, you should plaster the surface of the pipe for a better fit of the insulating layers. After this, the walkthrough begins.

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How to bypass pipes on the roof?

First, you should line the waterproofing gutter. It is planted on slopes, at a higher level than the edges (up to 0.8 m). The gutter should be in a layer of thermal insulation to remove moisture from there. Next, the sheathing (additional) is installed. The next step is laying the tiles. To implement this, the sheets should be cut (to the shape of the chimney) at the points where they adjoin the pipes. The covering is laid according to the recommendations of the metal tile manufacturer.

The next stage is to apply marking lines to the side faces, which are made slightly higher (about 15 cm) than the roof level.

They indicate the height of the apron. The markings should be carefully tapped so that the groove only goes over the brick without damaging the masonry. After this, the surface is cleaned of dust, of which there will be a lot. In this case, it is important to first cover the roof with film so that dust does not damage the metal tile coating. After cleaning, the grooves are filled with silicone (or other transparent sealant).

Next, prepare the bar for attaching the apron. It is laid in a groove, in a layer of sealant, and then attached to the metal tile with self-tapping screws. Similarly, all parts of the apron strip are installed, which are subsequently connected to each other, after which a sheet of metal is inserted under the apron. It is mounted under the lower edge of the apron. Its edges are bent using a hammer and pliers. It is designed to prevent water from entering the chimney from the roof.

It is important to remember that the apron itself is mounted on the roof in such a way that it is located on the pipe laying approximately 15-20 cm above the level of the tiles.

When the bar for attaching the apron is ready, the apron itself (outer) is installed. A sheet of metal tile should be mounted on the strip so that it covers the strip for fastening the apron and extends onto the sheet of metal tile that flows around the pipe. In this case, it is necessary to install an internal apron, which is installed between the metal tile mounted on the strip and the “main” coating flowing around the pipe. It should prevent moisture from getting under the roof.

When the metal tiles are installed around the chimney and on the flashing, begin installing the outer part of the apron. This part does not have additional protective and insulating functions, but is intended for decoration at the pipe passage site. It is installed according to the manufacturer's instructions, and the installation should be carried out carefully so as not to spoil the decorative (or paint) coating. The main difference between the installation of the external part and the installation of the internal part is the system for fixing the strip for abutting the chimney. To do this, you do not need to lay a groove in the chimney masonry; fastening it to the brick with self-tapping screws will suffice. After this, the plank is covered with a layer of silicone, after which it can be plastered or painted.

The listed works describe the connection device and work on the flow around a chimney pipe made of stove bricks. For metal pipes (which can both remove smoke from the stove and ventilate bathrooms), the flow is carried out differently.

Any facility that is equipped with a chimney must have a good seal to prevent leaks. If you use unsuitable materials or sealing methods, this will cause condensation to form on the pipe walls. In turn, poor waterproofing of the chimney on the roof will lead to an increase in pressure, loss of draft and the occurrence of cracks in the pipe.

Waterproofing the chimney on the roof will eliminate many difficulties during the heating period Source slab-tok.ru

Where does waterproofing begin?

Heating devices will operate in a safe mode only if the waterproofing is carried out correctly and taking into account all existing rules and recommendations. Waterproofing is carried out taking into account:

Between the rafter system and the roof there must be certain distance, which depends on the materials used. Flammable – 150-300 mm, non-flammable – 100-250 mm.

Sequence of layers in the roofing pie must not be disturbed. It is necessary to block the possibility of moisture penetrating inside the prepared cake, since any liquid will cause rapid destruction of the layers. The insulation must be separated from the pipe by a gap. Otherwise, there is a risk of fire, since most insulation materials are flammable.

Box- This is the required device for separating the roof from the pipe. The distance should be approximately 150 mm. Inside, the created box is filled with any heat-insulating material that has non-flammable properties.

Films that perform insulation tasks must be cut “envelope”, and then pulled to the cross beam so that it can be attached with nails. Waterproofing must be fixed with lathing, vapor barrier - with a special frame. All joints of the box and insulation layers must be edged with special tapes.

Sealing a chimney is a complex process and requires certain skills and knowledge Source stroy-krov.ru

How is it carried out?

If the owner of the property notices that a leak appears near the pipe, then in most cases the cause is poor-quality roof sealing. To avoid leaks, specialists install aprons. Installation must be carried out in accordance with the algorithm:

Needs to be laid drainage channel. It is required to remove moisture from the pipe.

To provide maximum joint tightness roof covering and chimney, an internal apron is used for the pipe on the roof.

Need to cut waterproofing underlay, which should be placed under the lower edge of the apron. If the roof is covered with sheet material, then the edge of the substrate must be brought out between the sheets from below. It is imperative to create a side to direct the water along the slope.

The roof covering must be laid around the pipe.

Using an identical algorithm external apron installed. The only difference is in securing the top edge to the chimney.

Insulating apron can be created manually or a ready-made version can be purchased. The chimney must pass inside the apron.

Attaching the apron to the pipe Source banya-ili-sauna.ru

roof repair

Materials used

The materials used for sealing are divided into three types, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages.

cotton wool

It is a roll or shortened fibers. Positive qualities of cotton wool:

soundproofing;

low density;

fire resistance;

adheres tightly to surfaces;

reduced heat capacity;

reduced thermal conductivity;

resistance to physical impact (shock, vibration);

resistance to chemical attack;

heat resistance;

elasticity;

electrical insulation.

Cotton wool is the most common material for insulation Source 1000dosok.info

Roll filters

They are a mullite-siliceous composition that is included in the fibers of the composition. Positive qualities of roll filters:

flexibility;

it is permissible to use inorganic glue;

easy to cut;

the mechanical fastening can be firmly fixed.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer country house design services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Asbestos and kaolin boards

In production, mullite-silica fiber is used. The disadvantage of the plates is their immunity to alkalis and acids at high temperatures. To eliminate the deficiency, additional insulation will need to be installed. Positive qualities of slabs:

soundproofing;

low density, but higher than that of cotton wool;

low thermal conductivity;

resistance to physical impacts, such as vibrations;

resistance to steam, water and oils;

resistance to melting non-ferrous metals;

elasticity;

electrical insulating properties will be maintained at temperatures up to 800 degrees Celsius.

Possible ways to eliminate gaps

There are three ways to eliminate gaps between the pipe and the roof:

Special apron, which performs protective properties. It can be purchased at a specialty store or built.

Stainless steel passage. It is thrown over the pipe itself, after which the joint that appears must be closed with a clamp.

The joint is covered with a rubber clamp Source uteplovdome.ru

Silicone sealant. Best suited in cases where the gap is small.

Depending on the materials, sealing methods also change. For example, sealing a pipe on a metal roof is only possible with the installation of an apron. In some cases, depending on the roofing material, individual sealing methods may be used.

Sealing a square pipe on a slate roof

A slate roof adds its own nuances when it comes to creating a sealed pipe. Because of the slate, it is impossible to use any other parts for insulation, so the protection effect was achieved through a cement-sand apron, which was created as follows:

All cracks must be covered with collar collars made of galvanized steel. This material does not corrode and can last a long time.

Cement-sand mortar is poured so that it is above the roof level. If a cardboard cylinder was used in the process, then the procedure will be easier and simpler.

Water drainage should be carried out using an inclined ledge, which must be located on the side of the ridge.

When sealing the chimney, do not forget about water outlets Source dom.dacha-dom.ru

If, for convenience, when pouring, a cardboard cylinder with plastic film or a plastic side was used, then these parts must be removed after the mass has hardened. Despite its appearance, this method of sealing is in no way inferior to alternative ones, which cannot be used on a slate roof.

Sealing round multi-layer chimneys

It is much easier to install sealing on modern round chimneys. The simplicity of the process is due to the fact that no additional equipment is required, since the pipe is already equipped with everything necessary. Installation takes place in three stages:

Prime the edge of the pipe where the waterproofing will be attached.

Do hole in waterproofing, and then glue it to the pipe using mastic.

The sheet must be attached to the sheathing. The pipe is passed through a cap, between which a clamp with a heat-resistant gasket should be located.

Round metal chimneys Source pinterest.com

If there are no caps, then flexible elastic seals for pipes are used instead. The sealant can also be used anywhere else where roof insulation needs to be improved.

Sealing a pipe on a bitumen roof

In this case, the chimney must be sealed using Wakaflex tape. At the same time, it is observed next procedure:

Creation ribbon cuttings.

Cutting pressed with the help of the case.

Appeared gaps must be sealed using bitumen mastic.

Bitumen mastic best protects against bad weather Source www.drive2.ru

Video description

The process of chimney waterproofing in the video:

Sealing on the roof made of metal tiles and corrugated sheets

Sealing on a roof with such a roof is only possible when using a junction strip. When sealing a chimney on a corrugated roof, it is necessary to observe next procedure:

Decide with the installation site of the chimney.

Partially delete waterproofing membrane in this area.

Create a metal apron, which must be assembled from the outer and lower abutment plans.

Lay down roofing material on top.

The resulting joints need to be treat with sealant.

Waterproofing a chimney on a roof covered with metal tiles Source vl-fasad.ru

Conclusion

When waterproofing a chimney on a corrugated roof, it is necessary to choose the right material. Otherwise, the seal will be broken, which will lead to various problems, including further destruction of the chimney pipe.

When designing and constructing a private house, special care should be taken when arranging the passage of the chimney through the metal tile roof. The correct installation of passage units directly affects the level of tightness and fire safety of the roof.

Where to place the chimney

The place where the chimney will exit through the metal roof needs to be calculated at the project development stage. It is better not to carry it through the valleys, since the junction points in this case lose their tightness. It is also important to take into account the fact that the valleys bear the greatest snow load: this will inevitably affect the integrity of the connecting sections of the chimney and roof.

It is not recommended to install the pipe near the attic windows, as the wind will blow combustion waste into the attic. It is best to install a chimney duct near the ridge, because even in snowy winters a little snow accumulates there, and the threat of leaks is minimal. Also, finishing the chimney pipe on the roof can be done without much difficulty. The height of the pipe with this arrangement is the smallest, which significantly reduces the degree of climatic influence on its surface. This is especially true during cold periods, when condensation can accumulate inside the chimney.

When implementing this placement option, certain difficulties arise: you either have to abandon the ridge beam altogether, or make a gap in it. As a result, the overall strength of the ridge structure is seriously compromised. The way out of this situation is to install additional support units under the rafters: this is not always good, because in many cases an attic floor is installed in the attic. In this case, it is better to install the pipe in the area of ​​the ridge run. Flat roofs are equipped with chimneys 500 mm high.

If there is a ridge on the roof, then when organizing the passage of a pipe through a metal roof, the height of the chimney will depend on the distance to the ridge:

• A distance of up to 150 cm implies the need to install the chimney to a height of at least 50 cm above the ridge.
• When the distance to the ridge is 150-300 cm, the pipe is made flush with the ridge.
• If this parameter exceeds 300 cm, the height of the pipe is calculated by drawing a line at an angle of 10 degrees between the ridge section and the horizon.

Arrangement of a chimney outlet through a metal tile roof

Insulated roofs usually do not have very high fire safety, because they contain a layer of waterproofing, thermal insulation and vapor barrier. The presence of wooden sheathing also does not contribute to its improvement. According to building codes, the distance between these structural elements and a pipe made of brick, ceramic or concrete must be at least 13 cm. If the ceramic chimney does not have thermal insulation, then the distance increases to 25 cm.

The area where the chimney passes through the metal tiles and roofing pie is characterized by increased heat loss and the appearance of condensation in the insulation. To avoid such phenomena, it is necessary to build your own rafter structure specifically for the pipe. Mineral basalt wool is used to fill the void between the chimney and the roof. When arranging smoke exhaust in a residential building, vapor and waterproofing is cut out in the form of an envelope, with the edges folded and fixed to the rafter structure. When using rectangular or square pipes, it is necessary to make external aprons: these elements ensure good tightness of the junction of the chimney and metal tiles.

Arranging a passage for a square or rectangular pipe

To make the junction of the chimney and the roof completely airtight, use the finishing of the pipe on the roof made of metal tiles with internal and external aprons. First, install the inner apron.

Installation of the upper and lower strips and side elements is carried out in the following order:

• The bottom bar must be attached to the wall and a line drawn with a pencil.
• The remaining elements are marked in the same way.
• Next, the entire perimeter of the chimney is measured. The result obtained is used to make grooves to a depth of 15 mm. For these purposes, use a grinder. It is important not to allow the grooves and seams of the brickwork to coincide: the recesses should run along the surface of the bricks.
• The finished grooves must be washed with water to remove dust and dried.
• First, the strips are installed on the lower chimney wall. Then they move on to the sides and top. To avoid leaks, an overlap of 150 mm is made between the slats.
• After laying the edges of the additional elements into the grooves, they need to be filled with sealant.
• Roofing screws are used for fixing to the pipe.
• The bottom of the apron is decorated with a “tie”, which ensures water drainage. Usually the “tie” is directed into the valley or onto the eaves overhang.
• The edges of the roof are equipped with a side. To do this you will need a hammer and pliers.

Upon completion of the installation of the apron and the roof cutting, the metal tiles are laid around the chimney. After this, an external apron is installed, which will perform a purely decorative function. The fastening of its strips is carried out in the same way as in the case of the internal apron. In this case, the strip edges are not inserted into the grooves, but are fixed to the chimney walls.

Output through the metal tile of a round pipe

Roofing passage units with a round cross-section are equipped with the help of roof penetrations, which allows for good sealing of the chimney on a metal tile roof. Antennas, masts, ventilation ducts and electrical communications can also be routed through roof penetrations. They are used on various roofing materials. The foundation of the roof penetration is a steel sheet, hermetically connected to the cap. A special hole in the cap allows you to bring out a sandwich pipe through the metal tile; all you have to do is find out how to assemble a chimney with your own hands..

To make penetrations, silicone or EPDM rubber is used: both of these materials comfortably tolerate temperature fluctuations from -74 to +260 degrees. Before installing the pipe, the penetration is equipped with a hole, the diameter of which should be 20% smaller than the diameter of the pipe. The process of pulling the adapter onto the pipe can be made easier with a soap solution. After joining the sealant and the roofing surface, it completely repeats the texture of the roofing material. The area under the flange is coated with roofing sealant. Roofing screws are used as fasteners (installation pitch - 35 mm).

In most cases, it is recommended to use a sandwich pipe instead of a brick chimney. It consists of two liners with different diameters, separated by a layer of thermal insulation (usually basalt wool). Due to its good performance characteristics, ease of installation and long service life, a chimney made from a sandwich pipe is far superior to brick or concrete elements. Such a smoke exhaust duct does not overheat and does not accumulate condensate.

When independently arranging a chimney and cutting a pipe on a metal roof, you must strictly comply with all existing building codes and regulations: they can be found in the relevant documentation. It is best to carry out such work during the construction of the house. However, sometimes this has to be done on an already constructed building.

This usually happens in the following cases:

1. The roof is undergoing major repairs.
2. The truss structure is being replaced.
3. A home heating system is being installed or replaced.

If you don’t have confidence in your abilities, it is better to invite professional roofers to carry out the work.

When designing and building a private house, special attention must be paid to future passageways through the roof. The passage of the pipe through the metal tile is the most important component, since the tightness and fire safety of the entire roof depends on its quality and correct installation.

The standards and requirements that the chimney must satisfy are specified in the relevant regulatory documents. Often, the planning of the chimney passage is designed together with the construction of the house itself. But there are cases when the passage of the chimney through the metal tiles must be carried out through the roof of an already built house. This need can be caused by two options:

• if the roof structure is changed or major repairs take place;
• if the heating source itself is being installed or replaced.

The location of the chimney exit through the metal tile is determined at the initial stage of its design. It is not recommended to install a chimney through valleys due to the lack of guarantee of complete tightness at the junction with the roof. In addition, the largest amount of snow accumulates in the valleys, which can put a large load on the junction of the pipe and the roof and disrupt the integrity of the entire structure.

It is also irrational when the pipe on the roof made of metal tiles is laid near the windows of the attic rooms. Carbon monoxide or smoke can be blown into the room by a slight gust of wind.

The optimal location of the chimney is to install it near the ridge. In winter, the least accumulation of snow occurs in this place, which means that the possibility of leakage is minimized. The pipe near the ridge has the smallest height, which has a beneficial effect in case of possible exposure to atmospheric phenomena. During the cold season, the least amount of condensation occurs here, since the main part of the pipe is not located in the cold zone.

This option also has some disadvantages. The rafter system does not provide for the installation of a ridge beam, or the beam is made with a gap, which affects the strength of the entire structure. It is necessary to install additional support units under the rafters, which is not always beneficial if you plan to use the attic as an attic space. Therefore, a rational solution would be to pass the chimney near the ridge girder.

For flat roofs, a sufficient chimney height is 500 mm. In the case of a ridge roof, the chimney pipe is laid through the metal tile to a height that depends on the distance to the ridge:

Exiting the chimney through a metal tile roof

In conditions of an insulated roof, thermal insulation, waterproofing and vapor barrier materials are possible sources of fire. Wood sheathing can also catch fire. In this regard, all these elements must be at a distance of at least 130 mm from brick, ceramic and concrete pipes. If a ceramic pipe without thermal insulation is used, the distance is increased to 250 mm.

In the place where the chimney passes through the metal tiles and roofing pie, an opening is formed in which heat loss occurs and condensation forms in the insulation. To prevent this from happening, the chimney is equipped with its own rafter system, and the gap between the chimney and the roof is insulated with non-flammable mineral basalt wool. If the pipe exit through the metal tile is carried out in a house in use, then the hydro- and vapor barrier materials are cut out like an envelope and, after tucking the edges, they are fixed to the rafter system. For rectangular and square pipes, internal and external aprons are installed, which ensure that the pipe adheres to the metal tile without the possibility of leakage.

The use of stainless steel pipes and asbestos cement is unacceptable for stoves burning coal or peat!

Passing a square or rectangular pipe through a metal tile

To ensure the tightness of the junction of the pipe and the metal tile, an internal and external apron is installed on the roof slope. Installation begins with the internal apron by installing the lower and upper strips, as well as the side elements. The bottom strip is applied to the walls and a line is drawn with a pencil. All other elements are also used as templates for marking other lines. Having measured a line along the entire perimeter of the pipe, it is necessary to make grooves. They are performed with a grinder with a depth of at least 15 mm. After this, rinse with water to remove brick dust and allow to dry thoroughly.

It is unacceptable for the groove to pass through the seam of the brickwork. The correct passage of the groove must be carried out along the surface of the brick!

Installation of the strips begins with the bottom wall of the chimney, then two side and top strips. The overlap of the slats should be about 150 mm, thus eliminating the possibility of leaks. The edges of the additional elements are inserted into the groove and filled with sealant. The strips are attached to the pipe with roofing screws. A “tie” is installed under the bottom of the apron, which is necessary for water drainage and can be directed to the valley or to the eaves overhang. A bead is made along the edge of the roof using pliers and a hammer.

When the internal apron is completed and the roof trim of the chimney is completed, the laying of sheets of metal tiles around the chimney continues. Next, an external apron is installed, which plays a decorative role. The connecting strips of the outer apron are attached in the same order as the strips of the inner apron. The edges of the planks are no longer inserted into the groove, but are attached to the walls of the chimney.

Passage of a round pipe through a metal tile

If the roof passage unit needs to be made of a round cross-section, then a roof penetration is used, which ensures the necessary tightness at the junction of the chimney with the roof. Roofing penetrations are used for arranging the passage of antennas, masts, ventilation, chimneys and electrical outlets and are applicable for many types of roofing materials. The base of the roof penetration is made of a sheet of steel, to which the cap is hermetically connected. The sandwich pipe passes through the metal tile through the hole in the cap.

Penetrations are made of silicone or EPDM rubber. These materials have a wide operating temperature range from -74 to +260 degrees.

To install a pipe through a roof penetration, a hole is made in it 20% smaller than the diameter of the pipe. Pull the penetration onto the pipe using, for example, a solution of laundry soap. The sealant is pressed against the roofing material, and it takes the required shape of the roof surface. Sealant is applied under the flange and secured with roofing screws with an approximate pitch of 35 mm.

In many cases, a sandwich pipe is a good alternative to a brick chimney. It consists of two pipes of different diameters, between which there is a thermal insulation material made of basalt wool. Installation, performance characteristics and service life make the use of sandwich pipes for the waste of flammable substances a profitable enterprise today. The pipe is protected from severe overheating of the outer wall and condensate accumulation.

It must be taken into account that when arranging a chimney, the roof cutting done by yourself must be done in accordance with all building codes and regulations. If you are not confident in your abilities or do not have enough skills and experience in this type of work, entrust the work to professionals.

Pipe passage through metal tiles: chimney passage, roof cutting and chimney passage unit

Chimney passage through metal tiles. Roof trim and chimney passage unit. Exiting a sandwich pipe through a roofing passage assembly with your own hands.

Options for chimney connections

An individual house, as a rule, is equipped with its own heating system, regardless of the type: coal, pellet or gas. Often in one house you can find a complex heating system, which makes it possible to easily replace one fuel with another if necessary. But with any energy source, a chimney must be installed on the roof in order to remove combustion products. As a result, during the construction process the question inevitably arises of how to properly organize the connection around the chimney outlet.

Pipe exit through the roof: device diagram.

The chimney can be organized in the following stages:

• when carrying out major repairs or reconstruction of the roof;
• when installing or changing a new heating source;
• during the construction of the building.

When installing a heating unit in an existing building, it is best to designate a separate room, an extension, for the boiler. This helps keep the house clean and the residents safe. And the option of organizing a boiler room itself is less expensive and labor-intensive.

Chimney exit through a metal tile roof

The chimney can be installed at almost any stage of construction.

When installing a chimney through a metal tile roof, be prepared that you will have to exit through all roofing layers, including:

• interior ceiling decoration. If the chimney is located closer to the wall, then, accordingly, the decoration on the wall;
• attic floor;
• rafter system;
• vapor barrier layer;
• insulation layer;
• counter-lattice;
• lathing;
• waterproofing layer;
• roofing made of metal tiles.

If the work is carried out carelessly, the following problems cannot be avoided during operation:

• Wetting of the insulating layer and, as a consequence, loss of its properties and qualities;
• moisture entering the under-rafter space will lead to leaks and rotting of wooden elements. In particular, drips can form on the wall and ceiling;
• Violation of the integrity of the rafter system will lead to its destruction.

Location of chimneys

Initially, the location of the chimney exit from the metal roof is determined. It is not recommended to install the chimney pipe in valleys, since there is no possibility of complete waterproofing there. In winter, these places have the heaviest snow cover, which can lead to damage to the junction of the chimney and metal tiles and leaks.

The best option is a place near the ridge. Regardless of whether it will be adjacent to the wall or run along the center of the structure without support.

The height of the pipe above the roof depends on its location.

There is the least accumulation of snow in winter, a smaller chimney outlet above the roof surface and a lower risk of pipe destruction as a result of exposure to atmospheric phenomena. Another advantage of a small pipe outlet is minimal condensation formation during the cold season.

However, do not forget that the lower the chimney pipe is on the slope, the higher it should protrude above the roof surface. Those. if the structure is located closer to the side wall.

Connection around the chimney outlet: design

Chimney pipes are made from a variety of materials:

• asbestos-cement or metal pipe;
• fire bricks, etc.

For each, a different design of exit through the metal roof, a different system of waterproofing layers, is organized, in accordance with building codes and regulations. The main influence on the choice of design is the type of energy carrier, heating boiler or fireplace.

So, if you plan to use peat or coal, then installing a chimney from a metal pipe is strictly prohibited.

In addition, spark arresters, which are a metal mesh, should be installed. With such fuel, it is recommended to thicken the layer of the chimney, which is closer to the wall.

Insulation of pipes on the roof.

For better waterproofing, it is recommended to connect the pipe to the metal tile with a square or rectangular cross-section, since for this type there are many variations of ready-made junction elements.

Building codes and rules for the installation of a chimney junction with a metal tile determine the installation of combustible materials at least 15–23 cm from the outer surface of the chimney. These are elements of the rafter system, vapor-waterproofing films, and some types of insulation on the roof and wall.

A separate rafter system is organized around the chimney pipe. For insulation, non-combustible materials based on basalt or glass are used.

If the chimney outlet is organized on the roof of the building being used, then the vapor and waterproofing materials are cut like an envelope, the edges are folded and attached to the rafter system. The film attachment points can be further sealed by installing sealing tape or other adhesive material.

Rigid connection to the pipe

In the case of a rigid connection to the pipe, the circulation of air layers in the under-roof space may be disrupted. To avoid this, it is necessary to install an additional ventilation system, alternatively aeration grilles or other similar structures.

When choosing a metal chimney, a box is placed around the chimney, filled with non-combustible material (basalt insulation, mineral wool, i.e. those that can also be used in the wall of a house).

Alternative chimney options

Before organizing a chimney outlet through a metal tile roof, you can consider using standard modular chimneys, also called “sandwich”. The materials for organizing such chimneys are:

Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages and is used depending on the energy carrier. The main advantage of such systems is the ability to get rid of strictly vertical installation of the chimney, which is quite important when operating a building.

Anyone who is familiar with the construction business can install a chimney on a metal roof. The main thing is to comply with all technical aspects and fire safety rules.

It is important to remember that in no case should any chimney be rigidly attached to a metal tile roof, since in the event of a large accumulation of snow layer or other atmospheric disturbances, the integrity of the roof may be compromised, which, in turn, will lead to the destruction of the chimney, and this is already fraught with fire.

Connection around the chimney outlet through the roof

During the construction process, the question inevitably arises of how to properly organize the connection around the chimney exit.

Exiting a chimney pipe through a metal tile roof

When designing heating for a country house, you need to think about ways to pass the pipe through the roof. For it, choose a place close to the ridge; in this case, the risk of condensation formation is reduced.

The option of passing the chimney “through the ridge” is considered the simplest. In winter, snow does not accumulate on the ridge. Another method of passage is a pipe installed on the roof slope, not far from the ridge.

To bring a pipe through a metal tile roof, you first need to: mark the passage location, cut a hole in the roof and install junction strips or a passage element (for a round pipe). Let's take a closer look at each stage of the work.

Measurements and calculations

On a roof with a ridge, the height is calculated depending on the interval between the pipe and the ridge:

• With an interval of 1.5 meters, the height of the pipe should be 0.5 meters higher than the roof ridge.
• With an interval of 1.5 to 3 meters, the ridge and pipe should be at the same level.
• If the interval between the pipe and the ridge is more than 3 meters, then the length of the pipe above the roof can be determined based on a line that runs at an angle of 10 degrees from the ridge run to the horizon.

Thermal insulation materials, waterproofing and vapor barrier should be at a distance of 15 cm from the brick or concrete chimney; if the pipe is a ceramic product, then the permissible distance is 25 cm.

How to cut a hole

Once the location of the pipe has been determined, you need to mark and prepare a hole in the metal tile.

The coating layer, along with the heat and waterproofing, can be cut using a sharp knife or large scissors. There are two ways to make a hole in a metal tile:

The hole can be made during installation or after the covering has been laid. To prepare a round and rectangular hole, use metal scissors, a jigsaw or nibblers.

To prepare a hole with a circular cross-section, you need to draw a circle with several intersecting diameters in the center. After that, using metal scissors, you need to make cuts starting from the center of the markings to the edges, then bend the resulting triangles inward.

Fire safety

To ensure fire safety when a pipe passes through a metal roof, it is necessary to equip a special box into which non-flammable material, for example, mineral wool, must be poured.

In addition, it is recommended to thicken the walls of the chimney to 35-40 cm. If a brick pipe is used for passage, then thickening the walls will reduce the heating of surrounding materials to an acceptable 40-50 degrees.

Methods for exiting a pipe through a roof covered with metal tiles

The passage unit is selected according to the shape and size of the chimney. The most popular roof passage options are:

• Square or rectangular outlet.
• Round exit.

Each type has its own characteristics and installation sequence.

How to make a rectangular chimney outlet

Rectangular passage is carried out in two stages:

1. Installation of the internal apron before laying the covering.
2. Installation of the external element after laying the covering.

The installation process can be divided into the following steps:

• Determining the location of the top edge of the internal abutment strip. To do this, it is applied to the pipe wall.
• Using a grinder, you need to make a groove along the mark line, about 150 mm deep, and the groove should have a slight upward slope. The final stage is cleaning it, which is recommended to be done with water.
• The junction strip must first be installed on the side of the chimney from the eaves, and then the other three strips must be installed on the side and on top.
• The planks are laid with an overlap of about 150 mm, and the edges are filled with silicone sealant. It is recommended to use roofing screws for fastening.
• To form a “tie” through which water from precipitation will pass, a sheet of metal is installed underneath. It is usually installed so that water immediately enters the drainage system.
• To remove the waterproofing, it is lifted onto the chimney wall by 5 cm and secured in this position with special tape. This will provide additional reliability at the junction.
• Now we begin to equip the lower apron, which serves more for a decorative purpose. It is installed in the same way, only to secure the outer planks, the chimney walls do not need to be tapped. In fact, the bottom apron is sandwiched between sheets of metal tiles, which prevents moisture from penetrating under the roof.

How to exit a round chimney

The circular passage is a little more difficult to install, so a passage element was developed to make the work easier. It consists of a flat steel base and an elastic cap. This allows for a hermetically sealed connection of all passage elements.

For the production of pass-through elements, EPDM rubber or silicone is used, which have high heat resistance. Pass-through elements made of silicone are recommended for use in places where there are temperature fluctuations from -75°C to +260°C, elements made of EPDM can withstand differences from -55°C to +135°C.

Installation of the passage element consists of the following points:

• On the metal roofing you need to cut a hole based on the diameter of the pipe.
• After moistening the transition element with liquid soap, it is put on the pipe.
• The sealing element, using light pressure, follows the curves of the roofing.
• To fasten the element, you can use self-tapping screws, but before that, sealant is applied under the transition element. The screws should be spaced 35 cm apart.

For greater efficiency, experienced roofers advise choosing a smaller ring diameter on the passage element relative to the pipe cross-section, by about 20%, and it should be trimmed at the same level.

Choosing a sealant for chimneys

There are two types of sealant for installing chimneys:

Heat-resistant compounds are usually used to insulate the outer surfaces of stoves and fireplaces, as well as to insulate joints between brick pipes and roofing. It can also be used when installing sandwich pipes, but not made of metal.

Many sealants are based on silicone, with the addition of iron oxide, due to which such sealant can withstand constant temperatures from 250 to 350 degrees. Heat-resistant sealants can be acidic or neutral.

Heat-resistant compounds are used in cases where the constant heating temperature ranges from 1200–1300 degrees, and short-term heating reaches 1600 degrees. This sealant is used to seal cracks in stove fireboxes where there is an open fire and to seal chimneys on the roof. For cases with open fire, you need to choose fire-resistant compounds.

Heat-resistant pastes contain silicate. During polymerization, it is converted into an organosilicon compound that is extremely durable and 100% waterproof.

How to route a pipe through a metal roof?

You should think about venting the pipe through the roof at the stage of installing a fireplace or stove. The chimney must be safe, efficient and, preferably, aesthetically pleasing. Reliable waterproofing and correct selection of the outlet location are the key to long service life of heating equipment.

The technology for installing the pipe depends on the roofing material. How should the passage through metal tiles be organized? To prevent leaks from occurring, the chimney to become dirty less often, and fire hazards to avoid occurring, the installation process is carried out using strict technology.

Where should the chimney be installed on the roof?

The area where the pipe meets the roof is a potential leak point. The design of the roof opening must meet 2 requirements:

To solve these problems, special building materials are used.

From the point of view of opening design, the ideal choice of location is the ridge of the roof. There are no snow pockets formed here and the likelihood of condensation inside the pipe is reduced. Located mostly in a warm zone, it will always be warm.

Also, if the pipe is positioned “through the ridge”, it is easy to bypass it with metal tiles. The disadvantage of such a passage is the need to create a ridge rafter system “with a gap”. And these are additional supports that interfere with the operation of the attic space.

Often the heating device is not installed in the center of the building, so the optimal location for the chimney is near the roof top. In this case, the pipe will effectively cope with its functions.

You should not install the pipe in the following places:

In such places, it is extremely rare to avoid leaks due to the design difficulties of installation. You should not create a passage near the attic windows - smoke and combustion products will enter the room with gusts of wind.

How to remove a square pipe correctly?

The method of designing the passage greatly depends on the shape of the chimney. The pipe can have a round or square cross-section. In both cases, special training is carried out.

When installing a square or rectangular pipe, an apron is installed even before laying the main coating. Installation procedure:

• an internal connection strip is applied to the pipe wall and a mark is placed on the position of its upper edge;
• The chimney wall is grooved along the drawn line;
• The first to install the strip is from the side of the cornice;
• all strips are sealed with silicone;
• a tie is formed - a sheet of metal is placed under the lower part of the apron, and the outlet chute is directed towards the eaves overhang;
• The main covering is laid and the outer apron is installed.

For a round pipe there is its own installation technology. When performing this procedure, it is recommended to use special passage elements.

They are able to reliably isolate the roof opening. The element is made up of a metal base and an elastic cap equipped with transition diameters.

Round pipe installation procedure:

• to begin with, select a ring of the passage element, which is 20% smaller than the cross-section of the chimney;
• the element is trimmed at the selected level;
• a hole is cut in the roof that matches the diameter of the pipe;
• using liquid soap, the element is pulled onto the chimney;
• the base of the sealing element is given the shape of the roof (by pressing);
• Sealant is applied under its edges, and the element itself is screwed with self-tapping screws.

When scoring a brick pipe, you should make sure that the edge goes along the brick and not along the masonry seam.

Methods for sealing a pipe outlet

In addition to constructing an apron, several options are used to seal the chimney opening: creating a special box, installing an umbrella, using self-adhesive tapes.

The box is designed to separate the pipe from the roof and effectively remove moisture. It is created using rafters. The box is located 15 cm from the chimney.

It should be filled with special stone wool. With such material, there is no need for vapor and waterproofing. In this case, metal tiles are insulated in the traditional way - using film. The junction of the box and the film is fixed with a sealant.

The installation of the umbrella is carried out when installing a metal chimney. The layout is made of cardboard. After determining the dimensions, the sheets are tightened on the pipe with a clamp. The gaps are sealed with sealant.

It is important to approach the installation of the pipe as responsibly as possible. This will protect the opening from leakage and prevent rotting of the rafter system.

Installation of a square and round chimney has its own characteristics. You can seal the pipe using a box, an umbrella, a transition element and special construction tapes.

How to route a pipe through a metal roof?

You should think about venting the pipe through the roof at the stage of installing a fireplace or stove. The chimney must be safe, efficient and, preferably, aesthetically pleasing. Reliable waterproofing and correct selection of the outlet location are the key to long service life of heating equipment. Depends on the roofing material

The junction of the roof to the chimney pipe is a rather complex roofing element from a technical point of view, the correct execution of which largely determines not only the service life of the rafter system, but also the comfort of living in the building. If you do not have any personal experience in performing roofing and tin work, then it is better to use the services of professionals - mistakes cause big problems, and it takes a lot of time and money to fix them. In the most severe cases, you will have to make unscheduled repairs to the premises and rafter system.

There are a great many options for solving the problem of roof abutment; each professional craftsman makes changes taking into account specific features and his own skills. But there are several factors that have a critical impact on the technology of work.

The passage of the chimney through the roof - the main nuances of the arrangement

Roofing type

To cover roofs, soft roofing materials, profiled sheets, piece natural or artificial tiles, and asbestos concrete sheets are used. Each coating has its own nuances in the manufacture of junctions; for them, both standard components produced by coating manufacturers and home-made ones from galvanized steel sheets or rolled soft materials can be used.

Roofing material	Minimum slope angle, degrees
Corrugated sheeting	20
Ruberoid	3-4
Metal tiles	25
Asbestos cement slate	20-35
Ceramic, concrete tiles	25
Euroslate (ondulin)	6
Bituminous soft tiles	11

Roofing materials - types and photos

Prices for metal tiles

Metal tiles

Type of rafter system

Depending on the architectural parameters, the roof can be flat, inclined, domed, etc. Depending on the type, the slope of the rafters, the type of base and sheathing for roofing materials, and the location of load-bearing structural elements change. All these features must be taken into account when choosing materials and technology for connecting the roof to the chimney pipe.

Chimney parameters

Chimneys are made of brick, concrete blocks, metal or asbestos-cement pipes. Structural differences affect not only the technology for carrying out adjoining work, but also the choice of materials. Additionally, during the manufacture of the junction, the location of the chimney must be taken into account.. If it is close to the ridge, then you need to use one technology; if it is closer to the drainpipes, then you should work taking this factor into account. This applies not only to the method of water drainage, but also to the materials used for sealing.

There is one more feature. Brick chimneys can have smooth side planes or with special steps for water drainage. Depending on the method of laying the chimney, a specific algorithm for making the roof connection is selected. Some types of brick chimneys do not require gating.

Connection installation time

Work on waterproofing the junction can be carried out during the installation of the roof or after. There are ways to seal a chimney without the need to dismantle the installed coverings; all elements are laid on top of the existing roof.

As an example, let's consider three options for making junctions on different types of roofing materials: brick chimneys on soft tiles and metal tiles, and round chimneys on the finished coating. These are the options that are most often encountered during the construction of private houses. The algorithm for performing the work allows you to perform it yourself without the involvement of expensive specialists. But only under one condition - you have experience in covering roofs, the necessary materials and tools.

Important! All work on roofs should be carried out only in good weather; the temperature cannot be lower than +5°C.

Step-by-step instructions for connecting a chimney to soft roofs

To create an abutment assembly you will need pliers, a medium-sized flat spatula, a mounting knife, a hammer, a screwdriver, scissors for cutting metal, a hair dryer, measuring tools and accessories. A mastic based on modified bitumen is used as a waterproofing agent; for the sealant, you can use a special mastic in a tube or any other material based on environmentally resistant polymers. If you have an air gun, great, it will be easier to work. If for some reason you do not have a special device, then the nails can be driven in by hand.

Practical advice! There is no need to buy expensive tools to make one or more connections. They are used only by professional builders on an ongoing basis.

The technology for installing flexible tiles involves installing a fillet, a plinth or a 50×50 mm beam spread diagonally near the chimney. The elements are fixed to the sheathing, pressed tightly against the planes of the chimney and screwed in this position. A waterproofing layer (underlayment) is installed on top of the elements, and individual pieces are glued with bitumen. Chimneys made of piece masonry materials must be plastered, allowed to dry and primed with any bitumen-based material. It is advisable to install the junction unit simultaneously with the installation of the soft roof - this not only simplifies the work, but also guarantees tightness.

Prices for underlay carpet

Underlay carpet

Step 1. Install the shingles in the usual manner until they meet the fillets. If one edge extends onto the surface of the element, it must be cut off with a mounting knife. Make a vertical cut along the corner of the chimney, and a horizontal cut along the bottom line of the fillet. To prevent damage to the underlayment when cutting soft tiles, always place a piece of plywood under the knife blade. Guide the tip of the knife exactly along the fold line of the roof. Cutting soft tiles is quite difficult; use strong and sharp knives.

Step 2. Additionally, seal all corners of the chimney with patches. How it's done?

It is recommended to seal the chimney passage unit using patterns from the remaining pieces of the valley carpet. In terms of its performance indicators, it better meets modern requirements. In extreme cases, it is allowed to use patterns from the lining carpet.

Step 3. Place a piece of carpet at the bottom of the chimney and mark it the width of the chimney. The length of the pattern must correspond to the sum of the height of the sealing on the chimney and the length of the material under the soft tiles. Practitioners recommend taking it with a reserve; a longer length will not cause problems for further work, but a too short pattern can cause leaks. Put it in place, bend it and use your finger to find the connection points between the fillet and the slope and chimney. You need to cut the pattern at these points.

The height of the establishment beyond the vertical must take into account the climatic conditions of the location of the house and the maximum height of the snow cover, but be at least 30 cm, the establishment beyond the horizon - at least 20 cm. To these dimensions you need to add the length of the fillet. The width of the pattern depends on the parameters of the pipe; the length of the side parts of the envelope is at least 20 cm.

Practical advice! If it is difficult for you to immediately make a pattern on the valley material, then prepare a template on thick paper. This will give you the opportunity to gain practical experience and avoid annoying mistakes in the future. You will find out in which places you need to make bends and which ones to cut off completely, you will see the optimal width of the hems, etc.

A more accurate pattern can be made on a flat surface, transferring the location of the points of the cutting lines and bends using a square and an ordinary nail.

Step 4. Carefully coat the back side of each pattern with special mastic, do not leave any gaps. Layer thickness is approximately 0.5–1.0 mm. Modern mastic will reliably glue the pattern to the chimney pipe, allow it to withstand wind loads, and prevent water from coming under protection.

Prices for mastic for tiles

Mastic for tiles

Patterns must be glued taking into account the direction of water flow. The front one is installed first; its lower part should cover the top of the shingles. All the water from the chimney will subsequently flow onto this element. Next, the side patterns are fixed; later they will be covered with the finishing coating. The last thing to cover is the back surface of the chimney.

Important! To improve the quality and reliability of gluing, professional roofers recommend using a hair dryer. All joints are carefully bent, heated and re-glued; due to this operation, adhesion between surfaces is significantly increased, the mastic hermetically covers the stone chips located on the material.

Step 5. Insert the upper metal strip into the chimney groove to fix the position of the pattern. The planks are sold complete with the roof; if you don’t have them, the elements can be made yourself from any galvanized and painted metal profile. The strips are fixed with dowels; they not only increase the tightness, but also eliminate the possibility of the patterns being torn off from the surface of the chimney.

Step 6. Carefully seal the junction of the strip with one-component polyurethane sealant. Try to fill the cracks to the full depth; remove excess with your finger.

After gluing all the parts to the chimney, you can continue laying the flexible tiles. The shingles are cut evenly at a distance of 5–8 cm, not reaching the lower edge of the fillet. The side cut of the tiles must be coated with mastic, the same operation must be done in all places where there is no self-adhesive layer. The edge of the cut shingles serves as a groove that directs rainwater in the desired direction. The last tiles to be laid are on the back side of the chimney, then work continues on the entire roof.

Bypass of a chimney pipe on a metal profile roof

Initial data: chimney made of unplastered sand-lime brick; galvanized steel is used for the work.

Practical advice! For the connection, it is better to buy a standard sheet profile for the groove with dimensions of 15x23 cm, the width of the shelf for the groove is 2 cm, the width of the bend of the drainage grooves is 1.6 cm. The profile is galvanized, the zinc thickness is at least 20 microns.

Step 1. Place the profile against the pipe with the side on which there is a curved shelf for entering the groove. Using a construction marker, draw lines around the entire perimeter of the chimney.

Step 2. Using a grinder with a diamond blade, cut a groove at least 2 cm deep. Work carefully, try to make the cuts as even as possible.

Important! Follow safety precautions when working with a cylindrical grinder. Never remove the protective cover and wear glasses. Remember that the disk should rotate towards the worker, and not vice versa. If the direction of rotation is not observed, then during biting the tool will be thrown onto the worker, this can cause very serious injuries.

Step 3. First install the galvanized sheet from the bottom junction of the chimney and the base of the metal tile deck to the eaves. It will drain all the water around the perimeter of the pipe. The chimney can also be lined at the bottom; if this is difficult to do, then place it close to the brickwork.

The first element is galvanized sheet

Step 4. Place the bottom joint on top of this sheet. This order must be observed for any method of draining water from the chimney. When installing sheets along the perimeter, one sheet is folded under the other, which prevents moisture from entering the junction areas. How to take sheet dimensions and prepare a pattern?

This completes the cutting process.

Step 5. Place the cut piece in place, bend its side tabs so that they are pressed as tightly as possible against the surface of the pipe. To do this, you need to bend the profile shelves on the folded tabs, which are inserted into the groove. Make sure that the metal fits as tightly as possible to the surface of the chimney, and do not allow gaps to appear. The reason for their occurrence is incorrectly taken dimensions. If the gap does not exceed 2–3 mm, then there is nothing to worry about, just take into account errors in the future. If the gap is large, you will have to repeat the measurements and cutting the profile.

Step 6. Proceed to form the side junction. Align it with the bottom one, make similar markings for bending and cutting the sheet. Remove excess areas.

Step 7 Place the finished part against the pipe and secure with dowels. Dowels must have rubber gaskets for sealing.

Step 8 Carefully bend the protruding elements onto the lower part of the outlet, and use a wooden or metal hammer to press them together as firmly as possible.

Practical advice! Experienced roofers coat the joint line with sealant before bending. This operation does not take much time, and the reliability of sealing increases significantly. We recommend that all beginners use this technology; they do not yet have enough practical skills in working with metal sheets. As a result, the joints are uneven and water can flow into the cracks.

Install the connection on the opposite side of the chimney in the same way.

Step 9 Proceed with the installation of the closing upper abutment element. It is done according to the same principle as the first one. The only difference is that the bend angle of the profile must be reduced, and in the side bends at the angle of the roof, the upper part, rather than the lower part, must be cut off.

At this point, the fixation of the metal abutment elements is completed; proceed to filling the grooves with sealant. Make sure that the kinks along the edges of the metal sheets fulfill their function and direct the flow of water downward.

Connecting a round chimney to the finished roof

We have already mentioned that this is not the best construction option, but life often dictates its own rules, and you have to solve problems as they arise. Initial data: pitched roof with bitumen tiles, round chimney.

Step 1. Find the exact location of the chimney pipe exit on the roof. To do this, you need to attach a plumb line to the flooring, align it with the center of the stove pipe and make a mark. Drill a through hole according to the mark; working from the roof is much easier.

Step 2. Using a spatula, carefully pry up the shingles and unscrew the screws. If the soft roof is fixed with nails, then the work will become somewhat more complicated. Dismantle the roof using the same method; the dimensions of the freed section of the roof should be 30–40 cm larger than the diameter of the pipe. Carefully stack soft tiles in free space; all of them are reusable.

Step 3. Proceed with installation of the passage element at the chimney outlet; it must be fireproof and airtight. The elements are sold in specialized stores; it is much more profitable and reliable to use factory products than to invent various devices yourself. The kit includes a pass-through element made of high-strength polypropylene, heat-resistant rubber and a metal clamp.

Step 4. Cut a hole in the heat-resistant rubber to fit the diameter of the chimney. To facilitate work, rings with the indicated diameters are cast on the upper surface of the element. Pierce a small hole with a knife, and then you can cut it with scissors.

Step 5. There are special lines on the penetration that indicate different roof slopes. Find the mark with your slope and cut the hole. The plastic is very hard; use metal scissors for cutting. Due to this placement, the chimney will be in a vertical position.

Step 6. At the base of the roof, find a hole pointing to the center of the chimney, lay the penetration on the solid sheathing and install it so that the centers are located on the same vertical line. Mark the diameter of the hole to be cut for the pipe, and use an electric jigsaw to cut out the slab.

Step 7 Place the passage element in place and secure it with self-tapping screws to the continuous sheathing.

Step 8 Install the chimney, put a rubber sealing casing on it. Pay attention to the location of the technological mark; it should face forward. Place the metal clamp and tighten it. There is no need to apply much effort, the rubber compresses easily, and too much load can cut it. Assemble the chimney and install all the special elements on it.

Step 9 At the bottom of the perimeter penetration there are special slots for installing sealant. Stick pieces of flexible roofing underlayment into them.

Step 10 Replace the shingles and trim off any excess. To guarantee, coat the joints with a high-quality compound.

Prices for popular models of screwdrivers

Screwdrivers

This completes the installation work. To check the reliability of the seal, it is recommended to pour several buckets of water onto the roof.. If leaks are detected, they should be repaired immediately. Doing this in a timely manner is much more profitable than later dealing with unscheduled repairs to the rafter system or roof.

Video - Joining flexible tiles

Video - Chimney. Adjacency

Video - Bypassing a chimney pipe on a metal roof