How does water enter the drainage pipe? Budgetary site drainage and storm sewer systems from portal users. How does the drainage system work?

How the drainage system works and its types - Do-it-yourself drainage technology

The presence of groundwater at the construction site is a big problem that requires a solution at the stage of constructing the foundations of the house. If at the beginning of excavation work water appears in the pit, it will be necessary to pump the water out with pumps from a specially constructed pit filled with crushed stone.

Groundwater may appear after construction is completed, which threatens flooding of basements and increased corrosion of foundation materials.

Flooding of the site also poses a danger to green spaces, because many types of trees and shrubs cannot develop normally if their roots are in waterlogged soil. The only means for draining the soil in all cases is to install a site drainage system.

How the drainage system works and types of drainage

The principle of operation of the drainage system is that artificial barriers are created along the path of groundwater movement from trenches filled with bulk materials - sand and crushed stone. Pipes with perforated walls, called drains, are laid at the bottom of the trenches with a certain slope. Groundwater entering such trenches is filtered through sand and crushed stone and accumulates in drainage pipes, and is then removed from the site by gravity.

There are several main types of drainage:

• Surface drainage.
• Deep drainage.
• Reservoir drainage.
• Wall drainage.

Surface drainage is carried out to protect the site from flooding by surface water. In this case, the depth of the trenches is no more than 50 cm.

When installing deep drainage, the depth of drains can reach several meters. Reservoir drainage is arranged in the presence of pressure groundwater, when the use of other drainage systems is not enough.

Formative drainage usually consists of a layer of sand up to 30cm thick, with strips of crushed stone spaced several meters apart, which can be laid under the entire building.

Wall drainage is used to protect basements and foundations from flooding.

The procedure for constructing a drainage system

To install drainage, first of all, establish at what level the groundwater is in relation to the depth of the foundations and to the soil surface. The exact level of groundwater can be determined using engineering surveys, but if this is not possible, then information can be obtained by interviewing neighbors, especially if their houses have basements.

If groundwater rises to less than 2.5 meters from the ground surface, then drainage must be performed.

Next, determine the place where you will discharge water from the drainage system. Of course, it is advisable to invite surveyors who can perform high-altitude surveys of the site and surrounding areas using precision instruments. But, if this is not possible, then the nearest bodies of water - a river, lake or ravines - can be a reference point. They are always the lowest points of the terrain.

Next, determine what type of drainage needs to be installed. If it is definitely established that the area is often and abundantly flooded with groundwater, then perform deep drainage to protect the garden and wall drainage for the foundations of the house.

If there are no ponds or ravines nearby to discharge water, make a water absorption well at least 3 meters deep. Cover the bottom of such a well with several layers of sand and crushed stone so that the water filters into the lower layers of the soil.

Drainage trench construction technology

The procedure for constructing a drainage trench is as follows:

• First, fill the bottom with coarse sand in a 50mm thick layer.
• Lay the drainage pipe with a slope of 0.002 (2 mm per 1 linear meter) in clay soils and 0.003 (3 mm per 1 linear meter) in sandy soils. If the lowest point of the drainage is located with a difference of several meters from the level of the site, then it is better to make a slope of up to 5-10mm per 1 linear meter. Wrap the drainage pipe with a special fabric - geotextile and cover it with a layer of washed gravel, fraction 10-20mm, 30-40cm thick.
• Next, lay another layer of coarse sand 10-20cm thick. Top fill the entire structure with soil previously removed from the trench. Cover the top of the trench with a layer of turf to prevent silting of the drain.
• Lay the pipes, as in a regular sewer, in straight lines, and install inspection and rotary wells at turns.

How to make wall drainage and garden protection

Wall drainage is designed to protect house foundations and basement walls from flooding.

When installing wall drainage, apply adhesive waterproofing on the wall using a “Drainiz” type material, which consists of a polymer waterproof and filtering geotextile layer.

Lay the drainage pipe around the perimeter of the house at a distance of at least 1 meter from the wall and not below the level of the base of the foundation. To ensure drainage, determine the lowest level of the well bottom at one of the corners of the house closest to the discharge point, and lay pipes from it, maintaining the required slope, to other corners of the house.

To protect the garden and vegetable garden, create a drainage system in the form of a “herringbone” plan with trenches laid to a depth of about 1 meter. Please note that one pipe can dry up to 15-20 m2 of area. The side pipes should have a diameter of 60-70mm, and the main collector pipe should be at least 100mm. Connect the drainage pipes using fittings - tees and elbows, just like sewer pipes.

Materials for drainage systems

For drainage, use asbestos-cement, ceramic and polymer pipes. Make your own cuts in asbestos-cement and ceramic pipes. If you have to make cuts in asbestos-cement or ceramic pipes, then you need to know the following. Make the cuts 4-5mm wide, and the length of the cut should be half the diameter of the pipe, and they should be located alternating on both sides of the pipe every 50cm. Lay pipes with cuts so that the cuts are in a horizontal plane.

Modern manufacturers now offer a large selection of polyethylene, plastic and PVC pipes with ready-made perforations. When choosing pipes with ready-made perforation, you need to know that plastic pipes can be laid at a depth of no more than 1 meter, polyethylene pipes no more than 3 meters, PVC pipes have the greatest strength and can be used at great depths - up to 10 m.

Rotary, water intake and inspection wells for the drainage system should be made of reinforced concrete rings 600 mm high, the diameter of which should be from 400 to 700 mm. At the bottom of the wells, make concrete trays with a slope towards the general drain. Now on the construction market you can purchase ready-made PVC wells with a diameter of 315 mm and a depth of up to 3 m.

By following all these instructions, you will be able to make drainage with your own hands on your site.

Experienced builders and country residents know well that “excess” water on the site is bad. Excess water leads to flooding of the foundation and basement floor, washout of the foundation, flooding of beds, swamping of the area, etc. As a result, in spring, autumn and even summer you cannot walk around your summer cottage without rubber boots.

In this article we will look at:

• How to arrange water drainage on the site.
• How to make a budget storm drain with your own hands.
• Drainage device. How to make inexpensive drainage and drain a wetland.

What kind of water interferes with the life of a developer and a country homeowner?

A whole book could be written about the types of surface and ground water, as well as drainage and storm sewer systems. Therefore, we will leave beyond the scope of this article a detailed listing of the types and causes of groundwater occurrence, and will concentrate on practice. But without minimal theoretical knowledge, taking on the independent arrangement of drainage and storm sewer systems is throwing money away.

The point is that even an improperly designed drainage system functions for the first few years. Then, due to clogging (silting) of a pipe wrapped in geotextile, which was placed in clayey, loamy, etc. soil, drainage stops working. But money has already been spent on drainage construction and, most importantly, drainage construction involves a large amount of excavation work involving equipment.

Therefore, simply digging up and relaying a drainage pipe 3-5 years after it was laid is difficult and costly. The site has already been inhabited, landscaping has been done, a blind area has been arranged, a gazebo, a bathhouse, etc. have been installed.

You will have to rack your brains on how to redo the drainage so as not to ruin the entire area.

From here - drainage construction should always be based on geological soil survey data(which will help you find a waterproof layer in the form of clay at a depth of 1.5-2 m), hydrogeological surveys and clear knowledge of what kind of water leads to flooding of a house or waterlogging of an area.

Surface waters are seasonal in nature, associated with the period of snowmelt and abundance of rain. Groundwater is divided into three main groups:

• Capillary water.
• Ground water.
• Verkhovodka.

Moreover, if surface water is not drained in time, when infiltrated (absorbed) into the ground it turns into underground water.

The volume of surface water usually exceeds the volume of groundwater.

Conclusion: surface runoff must be drained using storm drainage systems, and don’t try to do surface drainage!

Storm drainage is a system consisting of trays, pipes or ditches dug in the ground, discharging water from drains outside the site + competent organization of the relief on the personal territory. This will allow you to avoid stagnant zones on the site (lenses, pools), where water will accumulate, which simply has nowhere to go, and further waterlogging.

The main mistakes that are made when installing drainage yourself:

• Failure to maintain the correct slope of laid drainage pipes. If we take an average, then the slope is maintained in the range from 0.005 to 0.007, i.e. 5-7 mm per 1 running meter of drainage pipe.

• Using a drainage pipe in a geotextile wrap on “wrong” soil. To avoid siltation, pipes in geotextiles are used on soils consisting of clean medium- and coarse-grained sands.

• Using cheaper crushed limestone instead of granite, which is washed away by water over time.
• Saving on high-quality geotextiles, which must have certain hydraulic properties that affect the quality of drainage. This is an effective pore size of 175 microns, i.e. 0.175 mm, as well as transverse Kf, which should be at least 300 m/day (with a single pressure gradient).

Inexpensive do-it-yourself storm drain

The first thing that comes to mind in order to equip a budget option for storm drainage on a site is to lay special trays.

Trays can be made of concrete or plastic, but they are expensive. This forces users of our portal to look for cheaper options for installing storm drainage and drainage systems from the site.

Denis1235 FORUMHOUSE Member

I need to make an inexpensive storm drain, about 48 m long, along the edge of the fence, to drain the melt water that comes from the neighbor. The water must be drained into a ditch. I was wondering how to drain the water. At first it occurred to me to buy and install special trays, but then they would be left with “extra” grates, and I don’t need any special aesthetics for the storm drain. I decided to buy asbestos-cement pipes and saw them lengthwise with a grinder, thereby getting a homemade tray.

Despite the budgetary nature of this idea, the user was not attracted to the need to cut asbestos-cement pipes on his own. The second option is the opportunity to buy gutters (plastic or metal) and lay them on a prepared base in a concrete layer of about 100 mm.

Portal users dissuaded Denis1235 from this idea in favor of the first option, which is more durable.

Hooked on the idea of ​​an inexpensive storm drain, but not wanting to deal with cutting pipes on my own, Denis1235 I found a factory that produces asbestos-cement pipes, where they will immediately cut them into pieces 2 m long (so that the 4-meter one does not crack during transportation) and ready-made trays will be delivered to the site. All that remains is to develop a layout for laying the trays.

The result is the following “pie”:

• Soil base in the form of a bed.
• A layer of sand or ASG about 5 cm thick.
• Concrete about 7 cm.
• Tray made of asbestos-cement pipe.

When installing such a storm drain, do not forget to lay a metal mesh (for reinforcement) at the joints and leave a deformation gap (3-5 mm) between the trays.

Denis1235

As a result, I made a budget rain shower at the dacha. It took 2 days to dig the trench, another two days to pour concreting and install the route. I spent 10 thousand rubles on trays.

Practice has shown that the route “overwintered” well, did not crack and intercepts water from its neighbor, leaving the area dry. Also interesting is the option of rain (storm) sewerage for the portal user with the nickname yury_by.

yury_by FORUMHOUSE Member

Because The crisis doesn’t seem to be ending, then I started thinking about how to install a storm drain to drain rainwater away from the house. I want to solve the problem, save money, and do everything efficiently.

After some thought, the user decided to make a storm drain for water drainage based on flexible double-walled corrugated pipes (they cost 2 times less than “red” sewer pipes), which are used for laying power cables underground. But, because the depth of the drainage route is planned to be only 200-300 mm with a pipe diameter of 110 mm, yury_by I was afraid that the corrugated pipe might break in the winter if water got between the two layers.

Eventually yury_by I decided to take a budget “gray” pipe, which is used when installing internal sewerage. Although he had concerns that the pipes, which were not as rigid as the “red” ones, would break in the ground, practice has shown that nothing happened to them.

yury_by

If you step on the “gray” pipe, it turns into an oval, but there are no significant loads in the place where I buried it. The lawn has just been laid and there is foot traffic. Having laid the pipe in the trench and sprinkled it with soil, I made sure that they kept their shape and the storm drain was working.

The user liked the option of installing an inexpensive storm drain based on “gray” sewer pipes so much that he decided to repeat it. All the nuances of the process are clearly demonstrated by the following photographs.

We dig a hole to collect water.

Level the base.

We install a concrete ring.

The next stage is to fill the bottom of the well with gravel of fraction 5-20.

We cast a homemade well cover from concrete.

We paint the manhole cover.

We insert a drainage plastic “gray” sewer pipe into the well, maintaining a slope of 1 cm per 1 linear meter.

We spill the pipe with a mixture of sand and water so that there are no voids left between the walls of the trench and the pipe.

To prevent the pipe from floating, it can be pressed down with a brick or board.

We put the lid on, install the hatch and fill everything with soil.

This completes the production of the budget rain shower.

Construction of low-cost drainage and drainage of wetlands

Not everyone gets the “right” plots. In SNT or in new cuts, the land may be very swampy, or the developer may have a peat bog. To build a normal house for permanent residence on such land, and not a light summer cottage, is both difficult and expensive. There are two ways out of this situation - sell/exchange the plot or start draining and putting the plot in order.

In order not to deal with various expensive alterations in the future, users of our portal offer budget options for drainage and drainage of the territory based on car tires. This option allows you to save your family budget.

Yuri Podymakhin Member of FORUMHOUSE

Peat soil is characterized by a high groundwater level. On my site, the water is almost level with the surface, and after rain it does not go into the ground. To drain the top water, it must be thrown outside the site. I didn’t spend money on buying special pipes for drainage, but made drainage from car tires.

The system is installed as follows: a ditch is dug, tires are placed in it, and the tires are covered with polyethylene on top so that the earth from above does not fall inside. Polyethylene can also be additionally pressed with pieces of slate that are “unnecessary” in the household. This will increase the overall rigidity of the structure. Water enters the “tire” pipeline and is then discharged outside the site.

But there are also “harder” places where much more needs to be done.

Seryoga567 FORUMHOUSE Member

I have a plot in SNT with a total area of ​​8 acres. There is a building on the site that I plan to complete and expand. The place is very low. Because drainage grooves for drainage in SNT they are in a deplorable state, where they are buried, littered or clogged, then the water does not go anywhere. The water level is so high that you can draw water from the well with a bucket, holding it by the handle. In the spring, the water in the dacha sits for a long time, the area actually turns into a swamp and, if it dries out, it is only in the summer when it is very hot. Nobody wants to put the drainage ditches in order, so everyone floats. Therefore, I decided that it was useless to fight with my neighbors. You need to raise your site and find a way to dispose of all the “unnecessary” water from the site.

Almost all landowners planning to build a house and set up a garden are faced with the problem of flooding the territory with groundwater or precipitation. Using underground drainage.

In the spring, when the snow melts, or during prolonged autumn rains, large puddles appear on the land, preventing the free movement of people and limiting their routes with paths made of concrete or stone slabs. In addition, repeating from year to year, such “floods” gradually destroy the foundations and basements of buildings. Garden plants also suffer from prolonged stagnation of moisture and waterlogging of the soil: due to insufficient oxygen supply to the roots, carefully planted flowers, shrubs and trees may even die.

If, after melting snow or heavy rainfall, the garden area turns into a swamp, if the ground remains wet after several more hours or even days, it means that there are clay soils in this place that retain moisture. Since rain and melt water destroys roads, pedestrian crossings, blind areas and sidewalks, it is necessary to ensure its drainage. Drainage successfully solves this problem.

Drainage- this is a system of interconnected pipes located along or around a building protected from moisture and ensuring the removal of moisture outside the site - into a collector or a special well. It is necessary to organize such a drainage system at the initial stage of territory improvement, having previously carried out geodetic and geological surveys. Competent development of a drainage system project will help to correctly calculate the number of its elements and obtain the expected effect after its implementation.

The best option is a combination storm sewer and systems underground drainage. It is worth noting that storm drains cope well with precipitation, and underground drainage reduces the groundwater level at a depth of 6 meters.

Drainage pipes

For creating drainage network pipes called drains. They have perforations through which water from the soil enters the system. When using products made of porous materials, water penetrates into the drains through their walls. Depending on what tasks are assigned to drainage pipes - draining water from buildings or draining a garden plot - products of different diameters and structures are used.

Currently, so-called plastic pipes - made of polyethylene and PVC - with a diameter of 110 to 200 mm and a length of 40 or 50 m have become very popular. They have a uniform structure and are characterized by high wear resistance and durability: the minimum service life of such products is 50 years. Polyethylene pipes can be corrugated or smooth. There are models equipped with stiffeners and a geotextile filter. To create drainage during the construction of buildings and structures, polymer pipes with a diameter of 110 mm are most effective.

Perforation in drainage pipes without winding it is hidden in the troughs of the wave. This design prevents rapid clogging of the water passage holes, which ensures long-term operation of the entire system without additional maintenance.

In drainage pipes wrapped in geotextiles the holes are also protected by wave troughs, and a kind of geotextile cover is provided to prevent the ingress of small soil particles.

Plastic drainage pipes coconut winding have the same structure as the first two types of drains. However, natural material – coconut fiber – is used as protection against silting.

Pipes of all three types are used to drain groundwater in industrial and private construction, when creating parking lots, shopping centers, warehouses, etc. The depth of drains varies in the range of 1.2–3.5 m, diameter from 110 to 200 mm. The protective elements of the pipes allow them to be used in clay and loamy soils without fear that the holes will become clogged with small particles. When constructing buildings, drainage can be installed both before and after waterproofing the basement and foundation. The only condition is to do this before general backfilling of the outer side of the foundation.

Laying drainage pipes

The further operation of the entire system as a whole depends on the process of laying drainage pipes

To facilitate work when installing a drainage system, it is better to lay drainage pipes and storm sewer pipes in parallel in one trench. A mixture of crushed stone and coarse sand is poured onto the compacted bottom in a layer of about 10 cm, then leveled according to the angle of inclination of the pipe: the height difference should be from 2 to 10 mm per meter of length, depending on the type of soil. Most often, a slope of 5 mm per linear meter is accepted.

The drains are positioned so that their upper part is below the level of the base of the foundation. When turning and branching pipes, flexible and rigid ones are used. pipes, to connect straight elements – couplings without sealing rings. Then the drains are filled with washed crushed stone or gravel with a grain size of no more than 16 mm. The thickness of the layer depends on the water permeability of the soil: the lower this indicator, the more sprinkling will be required. The next step is laying geotextiles, and a layer of sand is already poured onto it. Along the foundation wall, the permeable layer should rise to the very surface.

The earth for backfilling the trench is carefully sorted, removing stones and other hard and sharp objects that could damage the pipes or their protective shell. Two layers - compacted and surface - allow, on the one hand, to provide reliable protection for drains, and on the other, to use the soil for planting grass or other garden plants. The slope of the surface towards the house should be 1:50.

Drainage wells

Drainage wells are engineering structures designed to maintain the drainage system - monitor the operation and clean the pipes (it is carried out with a stream of water supplied under high pressure). Such elements of the system are installed at each pipe bend, which allows access to any part of it.

Drainage wells are usually made in two versions: deep pumping wells with an automatic pump and inspection wells. Pump-out drainage well consists of a frame, bottom, cover, fasteners for the pump, the pump itself and a water hose. Inspection well It has only a frame, a bottom and a lid. The materials for making drainage wells are usually concrete or polymers.

To collect groundwater and sedimentary waters, the drainage system is equipped with intake well, located at the lowest point of the relief. The water from it can be used for irrigation, or it can be completely removed from the site.

Properly and accurately installed underground drainage largely determines the quality of the system. To make the right decision on the depth of laying pipes and calculating the amount of materials, it is necessary to use the services of experienced specialists. Only they can ensure effective removal of excess moisture from the site, which will not lead to drying out of the top layer of soil. And the service life and trouble-free functioning of the drainage directly depends on the quality of the elements from which it consists.

Article provided by the company HydroGroup

People living in country houses often face a problem when an excess amount of water accumulates in the area adjacent to the building due to heavy rains or melting snow, which in turn disrupts the comfort of living. Also, a complicating factor is the high groundwater level in the area. Problems of this nature arise in properties located in lowlands or on hillsides, where the clay content in the soil reaches high levels. Excessive amounts of moisture in the soil have a detrimental effect on the foundation of a building, eroding adjacent layers of soil and flooding basements.

Drainage is a technology for removing excess moisture from the foundation

A drainage system that will collect and drain excess water from the area adjacent to the house will help get rid of the above problems. This product can be used throughout the entire area, but this is a rather expensive option in terms of finances and time. Installing drainage around the house is a sufficient measure for comfortable living.

What is drainage?

Drainage is a system that removes excess moisture from a building using a pipe structure. There is an opinion that to effectively collect water, only a blind area is enough, but experts in this field recommend installing a full-fledged drainage system, which allows for much better protection of the building from the harmful effects of moisture.

No matter how beautiful the blind area is, it will not completely protect the house from moisture.

Drainage system for home can be of three types:

Open. It is a structure where open type trenches are used as drainage drains, the depth and width of which is 0.5 meters. This is the easiest drainage option for self-installation. The disadvantages of such a system include the unaesthetic appearance, as well as the unreliability of the structure, which will require additional reinforcement of the walls with special trays;

Backfill. This is a structure where prepared trenches are filled with coarse crushed stone or rubble, and turf is laid on top. The advantage of such drainage is its long service life and ease of installation. In addition to the advantages, there are also disadvantages: low throughput, inability to carry out maintenance;

Closed. This is done by laying drainage pipes with holes in the ground. This system is efficient and does not have the disadvantages of other systems. Its disadvantage is that the installation is quite complicated.

A closed drainage system is difficult to do correctly without certain skills and knowledge

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer installation and design services for sewerage and water supply. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Mistakes made when performing drainage yourself

Installing a drainage system without the participation of specialists is often accompanied by the following mistakes:

The use of a wall drainage system to ensure the removal of excess moisture in areas with high groundwater levels;

The use of pipelines in geotextile-type filters in areas with clay soil, which will ultimately lead to their clogging;

Application of levels during pipeline laying;

Installation of stormwater wells where drainage wells should be installed;

The most common mistake is to install only one drainage system around the house. As practice shows, this is too little. It is necessary to install a drainage system that will drain water from the roof of the building into a special well.

Also, you should avoid using one pipeline for drainage and storm water around the house, since the drainage will not cope with its functions during rains, which will lead to flooding of the area. Overmoistening of the soil near the foundation can lead to its heaving during frosts, which in turn will have a detrimental effect on the foundation of the house, even to the point of complete destruction.

Soil heaving is one of the serious reasons leading to the destruction of a house

To make storm drains, orange sewer pipes (designed for soil) and special wells are used where excess water will accumulate, which can later be used to water the vegetation.

Types of drainage systems

The drainage pattern around the house is divided into two basic varieties:

Surface(violates the aesthetic appearance of the site);

Deep(perforated pipelines are used).

Surface drainage

Surface drainage around the house is more affordable, simple and easy to perform all necessary operations. Such drainages cannot cope with groundwater and are used only to drain melt and rainwater. There are the following surface drainage systems:

Linear. It is used to drain rain and melt water from the entire area of ​​the site. Through trenches dug in the soil, water is drained into a special well, where it accumulates. Such channels are closed on top with decorative grilles;

Spot. Used to quickly collect water from one source. This drainage is covered with a special metal grate to prevent clogging. All local points are connected by pipes to the main pipeline, which drains water into the drainage well;

Neatly closed points will not disturb the inhabitants of the yard and will not spoil the exterior of the house

Open. It is a system of channels and drainage trays designed to drain excess water. Its unhindered movement is ensured by a bevel in the trench at an angle of about 30°, directed towards the main trench or drainage well. The advantage of an open drainage system is its low cost and ease of performing the necessary work. Disadvantages include the destructibility of the trench walls and non-aesthetic appearance;

Closed. The arrangement is similar to open drainage, except for the use of special trays with decorative gratings, which increases the service life of the structure and also improves safety;

Backfill. This type of system is used in areas with a small area where it is not practical to install open drainage. The arrangement of backfill drainage begins with digging a channel 1 meter deep (the slope should be directed towards the drainage well). The base of the trench is covered with geotextile, after which it is filled with coarse crushed stone or gravel. To give an aesthetic appearance to the site, the structure is covered with a layer of turf on top. Such drainage of the house and site has its drawbacks, including the impossibility of maintenance during operation without dismantling work.

This is what the backfill moisture protection scheme looks like

Deep type drainage

In places with high groundwater levels, or in properties with clay soil located in lowlands, a deep drainage scheme around the house is used. Systems of this type must cope with the removal of large volumes of water, so the arrangement process is accompanied by the use of perforated pipes, the diameter of which depends on the amount of liquid being drained.

About the arrangement of deep drainage, watch the video:

There are two types of deep drainage system around the house:

Wall-mounted. Installed in country houses with a basement or ground floor. Such drainage does not require additional work for arrangement, as it is installed during laying of the foundation. The pipelines are laid directly into the pit dug underneath. At the lowest point of the trench, it is necessary to install a drainage tank, which will serve as a storage well, or drain water outside the site;

Ring. Ring drainage around the house is used in areas with a high clay content in the soil, as well as in the absence of basements and ground floors in the house. Trenches are dug at some distance from the building (2-3 meters). The drainage depth around the house must be half a meter greater than the lowest point of the foundation. This is necessary to increase the effectiveness of its protection. A layer of crushed stone is laid at the bottom of the trenches.

The ring system is used in clay areas, and in the absence of a base and basement in the house

The cost of installing turnkey drainage systems

Hiring specialists allows you to avoid many mistakes when arranging a drainage system. There are many companies on the market that provide drainage installation services, including project development and carrying out all the necessary work. The average cost of such services is 2300-5000 rubles per square meter and a depth of 1 to 3 meters, respectively.

Also, additional services may be offered, which are paid separately:

Laying a pipeline for a storm sewer system. The cost of laying pipes to a shallow depth on average reaches 1,000 rubles per linear meter, and laying to a freezing depth is available at a price of about 1,800 rubles;

The cost of manufacturing a manhole depends on the installation depth and reaches approximately 7,000-10,000 rubles for a recess of 1.5-3 meters, respectively;

When connecting pipes to a manhole, it is important to ensure that the joints are tight

Installation of a storm drain is available at an average price of 4,000 rubles.

Important! It is better to sign contracts for the installation of turnkey drainage systems with trusted companies that provide a warranty period, which should be at least 3 years.

The price for drainage installation is cumulative and depends on the following conditions:

Land area(cost calculation depends on the length of the channels);

Complex necessary works;

Slope angle(height between the top and bottom points of the trench);

Soil type(work on wet clay soil is more expensive than work on normal soil);

Ground water level(deep drainage is more expensive than surface drainage).

For a clear overview of drainage systems, watch the video:

Conclusion

Arranging a drainage system in suburban areas is a necessary condition for comfortable living in a private home. The correct choice of drainage scheme and its correct installation will help protect the building’s foundation from the harmful effects of moisture, which will ensure a long service life of the entire structure. You can arrange the drainage system yourself, but it is better to trust professionals who will carry out all the necessary work efficiently and quickly.

Excessive moisture on the site harms not only plantings, but also buildings. Plant roots in water rot under the influence of pathogenic bacteria. Only a few crops can survive in overly wet soil. Groundwater poses a great threat to the foundations and basements of houses.

Fungus forms here, as a result of which the building can gradually collapse. To reduce soil moisture, special drainage systems are created.

The main function of the drainage system is to collect excess moisture from the site. Water enters the site in two ways: from above in the form of precipitation, and from below in the form of groundwater. If soil moisture is normal, precipitation is quickly absorbed into the ground, and groundwater does not cause problems for plants and buildings. In this case, there is no need for a drainage system.

It is necessary to drain the area where the soil remains constantly moist. There are a number of signs that allow you to determine that a site needs a drainage system. Drainage should be installed:

• If after precipitation there are puddles on the surface of the earth that do not dry out for a long time.
• When cultivated plants quickly die for no apparent reason.
• If the basement of the house is always damp, fungal growths quickly form on the walls.
• The soil is always moist, even in the warm season in the absence of precipitation.
• Of the weeds on the site, those that love moisture (nettle, cattail) predominate.
• There are rivers, ponds, lakes or swamps in the immediate vicinity of the site.

All these signs indicate that groundwater is no deeper than 1.5 m from the surface of the earth. This means that it is necessary to create a system for adequate drainage of the site.

It is important! When landscaping a new site, it is necessary to pay attention to the condition of the houses and soil of the neighbors. If the signs listed above are found in their areas, then the groundwater in this place lies high and it is better to install a drainage system immediately.

What is a drainage system?

The drainage system consists of drainage pipes and drainage wells. The pipes are perforated: along their entire length they have through holes located at a distance from each other. The pipes are installed at an angle so that water can flow through them to the wells.

There are several types of wells:

1. Rotary or inspection wells. They are installed in places where pipes are turned. They are necessary to audit the system and clean it as necessary.
2. Filter wells. In them, water is filtered through layers of sand, gravel and crushed stone and goes into the deep layers of the soil.
3. Water intake wells. They must be installed where water cannot penetrate the soil on its own at a certain depth. For example, if there is too much groundwater. Water intake wells are connected to drainage pumps that pump water into natural reservoirs or sewers.