How to increase the height of a garage door. How to increase the height of a garage door: a step-by-step master class. An example of a simple solution in a complex situation

There is a proverb: “If you pass the evidence, you pass everything.” And also, some garage “experts” like to claim that they have made “hard doors”. Competent engineers are aware of the simple truth - “there are no rigid metal structures”, and the shipbuilding engineer, having heard about the strength of materials, will grin and say that “The strength of strength is a special case of Structural Mechanics, in which movement is not taken into account.” This brings us to the question of why it is sometimes necessary to raise garage doors. Now a little more detail on how to do this.

The main reasons for changing the geometry of the gate or opening

General fatigue of the metal, subsidence of hinges, natural deformations upon completion of installation, subsidence of the opening (the frame in which the gate is mounted) for various reasons, some other factors (for example, in hot, cloudless weather a couple of years ago there were problems with thermal deformations of metal structures).

External reasons independent of the material part. We bought a taller car - it doesn’t fit the dimensions, we made a mistake in the lower gap - in winter the gate is extremely difficult to open, one of the walls of the garage sank more, which caused the opening to skew, and others that are sometimes difficult to foresee.

In each of these cases, the decision is made individually, but we will consider several simple methods that are available if you have a simple tool with an assistant.

Methods for raising (correcting geometry) gates

1. The hinges are sagging (the gate is deformed, or something else). To lift (for example, one leaf) you can use a spacer washer. We remove the sash from its hinges, put a washer of the required thickness on the axis of the lower hinge, and return the sash to its place. Sometimes it is difficult to find a washer, then we put a ball of the appropriate diameter into the loop where the hole is. This method allows you to correct minor distortions of the gates, raise the gate a little, and make it easier to move on the hinge. Very important! The material of the washer and ball must be made of a harder alloy than the loop itself!
2. The need to change the distance from ground level to the bottom of the doors. The easiest way is to cut off the lower part with a grinder, and then secure a rubber strip to eliminate the gap. Applicable if the sheathing metal sheet protrudes beyond the lower frame beams. If the gate is mounted so that the lower beam is at ground level, you will need to first cut off the beam, then the metal, and weld the beam in place. By the way, in our practice there are designs where the lower part (about 10 cm) is mounted on hinges, and when the gate is opened it can be folded back.
3. The sash is skewed due to the deformation of the opening. If you don’t touch the opening, then the easiest way to determine the skew zone (as a rule, the sashes do not close at the top or bottom) is to cut the horizontal beam on the sash that does not fit, and file off a few mm. With force (you may need a jack), we press the vertical beam of the frame and weld it. Up to gaps of 7-12 mm, deformations of the sheet metal will be invisible. Be sure to weld the welding area with an additional metal strip, since residual deformations will occur here! If you do not strengthen this place, the welding seam will simply break over time.
4. The need to increase the height of the opening. The most difficult case, which will require time, the ability to lay bricks, and additional equipment. How to do this can be found on construction websites. We will consider a situation where the problem was solved more simply.

An example of a simple solution in a complex situation

So, the new car did not fit the dimensions of the top of the garage opening. 6-7 cm across the width of the car itself, 14 cm from right to left, in places where roof rails are installed (by the way, one of the most common reasons when you need to raise the gate in height!).

Some garage craftsmen immediately advised disassembling the upper part of the opening (reducing the number of rows of bricks is a generally accepted approach), and re-welding the frame, thus increasing the height of the opening. In fact, raising the entire top part by 14 cm (2.5 rows of bricks) is very difficult, but this was not required. How the problem was resolved.

1. In the floor of the garage (concrete, like the entrance with a slope of about 2 meters long), grooves were made, each 2 - 2.5 tires wide, 10 cm deep. At the same time, the entrance level was lowered to avoid the roof of the car touching the upper frame in case of maneuver when leaving . The bottom of the track was covered with corrugated metal, fixed to the floor.
2. Using another car as an example (garage cooperatives are good because there is always an almost identical car - in this case, without roof rails). Take into account the difference in tire height. We determined the gap between the roof of the car and the upper frame in the maximum unloaded state - 7 cm.
3. On the left and right, in the upper part of the opening, 60 cm of channel were cut out (the middle part was supported with beams just in case). They knocked out several bricks and scalded the resulting U-shaped slots with a channel, which they secured into the brick.
4. We checked a smooth check-in and check-out with the desired car, making sure that everything was done correctly.
5. After this, we had to slightly raise the necessary sheets, since the gates no longer covered these holes, which was done locally after the doors had already been put in place.

At this point the work was completed. They took three days, the help of a neighbor in the garage was required, there was no need to struggle with the task of how to lift the entire upper part of the frame (at the same time increasing the gate).

We hope that when you are faced with a similar problem, this article will help you to be smart, use simple solutions, and not try to solve the problem head-on, as experts on the Internet advise.

When building a garage, many nuances are taken into account. One of them is the height of the gate, and we are talking not only about the height of the opening, but also about the height of the doors above the ground level. The article will discuss the reasons why it is important to correctly calculate this height. In some cases, you have to raise the garage door higher due to certain circumstances. The article will also describe several ways in which this can be done.

Why raise the gate?

When it comes to the need to raise gates, it concerns swing structures. There is no such problem for folding structures, since they are able to automatically change their level. There are several reasons why you have to resort to lifting the gate:

• hinge wear;
• frame deformation;
• incorrect design;
• violation of the integrity of the foundation;
• replacement of vehicle.

Old gate designs are made of sheet metal, which has a thickness of 3 millimeters or more. This gate design itself is quite heavy, so it is normal that over time they begin to sag. The reason for this may be poor quality metal hinges. The rods lose their strength and the doors partially tilt forward. This complicates or makes the normal process of closing the gate difficult or impossible.

Another reason why the gate needs to be raised is wear of the metal angle. In most cases, beams with a width of 20 cm are used, but to save money, small corners are used, which begin to deform under constant loads. In this case, the geometry of the frame is disrupted, which leads to problems with the gate. When designed correctly, swing gates are never placed flush with the ground. Even with proper installation, this approach can become a problem in winter. The metal can be deformed under the influence of low temperatures and the doors will not open because they will cling to the asphalt.

Another problem that manifests itself when the gate level is low is precipitation. If there is a significant amount of snow in the winter, you have to work hard to clear the area near the gate before entering or leaving the garage. If there is heavy rain, water will simply seep into the garage, which can create serious problems, especially if the garage has an inspection hole or basement. In some cases, due to ground movements, a problem with deformation of the lower part of the frame may arise. This also results in the need to raise the gate. Walls can also become deformed, which leads to sagging of the gate and the impossibility of opening it.

Gate lifting methods

In most cases, it is better not to lift the gate alone. Due to the heavy weight, serious injuries to the hands and musculoskeletal system can occur. There are several ways to carry out the ascent, the following will be discussed below:

• repair washers;
• reducing the jumper;
• decreasing the threshold level;
• gate trimming.

Each of these methods requires its own arsenal of tools.

Repair washers

This option for increasing the height of the valves above ground level can be considered one of the simplest. Repair washers will help in cases where the doors do not open well due to wear on the hinges. With proper skill, you can do the work of installing washers yourself. In this way, you can usually raise the sashes by 1 cm. To implement the idea, washers of the required thickness are selected or a selection of several elements is made. The hole in the washer must be such that the hinge rod can fit freely into it. The washer must be lubricated on one side only. The second should be fixedly fixed on the loop.

To carry out the operation, it is necessary to lift the flaps, but not remove them completely. It is enough to create a gap into which the washer can fit. It is necessary to select a jack that can be easily rolled under the sash. If this option is not available, then you can build a metal loop, part of which will be under the sash, and the second is clearly fixed on the jack. Another way is to install a rolling jack under the sash by lifting it. To do this, it opens perpendicular to the wall and several wooden wedges are driven under it. While performing these actions, it is necessary to hold the gate so that it does not skew to one side.

Using a jack, you can repair deformed parts of the gate, which is causing the sagging. In this case, the jack is installed as far as possible from the hinges, and the sash is lifted. As you rise, it is necessary to perform blows with a sledgehammer, which will help level out the deformed area. It is better to perform leveling in several small passes, then the result will be most effective. It is worth understanding that with severe deformation, an ideal result may not be achieved. If the frame was aligned, then the bend must be additionally reinforced with a corner that is welded on top.

Note! If you are aligning a gate that has a wicket, you should not remove it. If this is done, then after the procedure it may not return to its place. Instead, it is necessary to firmly fix the door with ties or welding tacks.

Jumper reduction

This option for lifting the sashes can be called one of the most difficult and costly in terms of time and effort. But the result obtained can be considered the most effective. This option is also called raising the frame. To implement this, you will need to completely remove the garage door leaves. In some cases, the frame does not need to be dismantled, but it is necessary to free it from the clamps that hold it in the wall. These can be metal pieces of reinforcement that are driven into the holes. It will be easier to lift if brickwork is used as a lintel at the top of the frame. In this case, it will be enough to remove one or more rows. Everything will depend on the required lifting height of the garage door frame.

If there is a concrete lintel above the frame crossbar, then more effort will have to be applied. When using a standard element, it will be possible to raise the gate by about 10 cm. This is due to the fact that concrete is located at this level, and then reinforcement comes. You will need a hammer drill with a long drill bit. The diameter of the drill is selected to be 10 or 12 mm. The grinder marks the line along which the drilling will be carried out. It must be horizontal and located directly under the reinforcement. Holes are drilled in a row without a large gap. The next step is to install the chisel and begin beating the upper part of the jumper. Once the task is completed, it is necessary to remove the remaining concrete and level the surface of the lintel.

The next step is to raise the frame to the required height. If the metal fasteners have already been cut off, you need to use a hammer drill and a chisel in those places where the frame is concreted into the wall. It must be completely released and move freely. There are two ways to raise the frame:

• wedges from below;
• jack from above.

In the first case, you need to act starting from the middle. At this point, a strong crowbar is placed and a slow rise begins. You shouldn't start from the edges, because the gate frame will simply jam in the opening. After a slight lift, you need to place wooden spacers under the frame. Then you can move alternately to the left and right edges. As soon as one of them is raised, a wedge is also placed under it. It is worth understanding that the extreme points may be more difficult to succumb to than the central one. When it is possible to achieve a large gap, one or more rolling jacks are installed in it.

Further lifting is carried out using jacks. In this case, it is important to act synchronously with an assistant or lift to a small level on each jack in turn. You should not try to do everything quickly, because the frame may become warped. If this happens, then you need to lower one of the jacks and tap the garage door frame with a sledgehammer. The operation can be performed in another way. If it is impossible to place spacers and a jack under the frame threshold, you must do this under its top crossbar. Jacks in this version are mounted as shown in the diagram above. High stands made of beams are made under them. A board gasket is placed on top of the head to prevent slippage. The garage door frame must also be raised evenly.

Note! In some cases, the threshold may be connected to the foundation, so it cannot be raised. Then the frame posts are cut off and the upper part is lifted separately. After this, small sections of the gate frame will need to be welded from the corner.

After such an operation, in most cases there is no need to digest the gate hinges, since they are mounted in their usual place. The question arises in relation to the lower part of the gate, because a gap is formed there equal to the height of the frame. It can be closed by welding sheet metal onto the gate. It is also suitable for forming a threshold that will prevent rainwater from entering the room. The last option is necessary if the gate was initially too low.

Threshold level

This option for increasing the height of the gate with your own hands does not involve dismantling the gate and is one of the simpler options. It is worth noting that it can only be implemented if the height of the threshold is sufficient and there is a small margin. You should not resort to this method in the case when the lower part of the frame is almost at road level. To implement this plan, you will need to install horizontal struts that will temporarily fix the frame. The gate leaves are opened and the lower part of the frame is dismantled.

You should not throw it away, because this element will be used in its place. For the next step, you need a jackhammer or a powerful hammer drill. It will be necessary to knock down part of the concrete threshold. After reaching the required level, the lower part of the gate frame is welded into place and the horizontal struts are removed. You can start filling the threshold with cement mortar.

Gate trimming

This method is the simplest and most undesirable. It can be implemented only if the total height of the gate is quite large and you do not plan to buy a large car. The method of cutting the gate is used only when it is necessary to understand the level of the threshold so that water does not get inside. For work you will need a grinder. The first step is to separate the sheet metal from the sash frame at the bottom. The bottom crossbar is completely cut out, but will be needed later. After this, it is necessary to determine at what height the gate will be trimmed.

Using a chockline or a thread with paint, the line along which you want to make the cut is marked. Using a grinder, the lower part of the sheet material of the gate is cut along the marked line. This, in principle, can be done in weight, but the best option would be to completely dismantle the sashes and make the cut in a horizontal position. In this case, there is less chance of biting the canvas and causing injury. After trimming each sash, it is necessary to weld the lower spacer into place. Next, the gate is mounted in its place and the threshold is filled. A video about three options for lifting the gate is below.

Summary

As you can see, in some cases, lifting the gate is necessary due to certain circumstances. It can be done in several ways. Some of them can be combined to achieve optimal results. Another way to raise the gate is to replace the sash version with a roller version. In this case, the gate will rise rather than slide apart. In this case, before installing the gate, you can expand the opening to the required dimensions.

There is a proverb: “If you pass the evidence, you pass everything.” And also, some garage “experts” like to claim that they have made “hard doors”.

Competent engineers are aware of the simple truth - “there are no rigid metal structures”, and the shipbuilding engineer, having heard about the strength of materials, will grin and say that “The strength of strength is a special case of Structural Mechanics, in which movement is not taken into account.” This brings us to the question of why it is sometimes necessary to raise garage doors. Now a little more detail on how to do this.

The main reasons for changing the geometry of the gate or opening

General fatigue of the metal, subsidence of hinges, natural deformations upon completion of installation, subsidence of the opening (the frame in which the gate is mounted) for various reasons, some other factors (for example, in hot, cloudless weather a couple of years ago there were problems with thermal deformations of metal structures).

External reasons independent of the material part. We bought a taller car - it doesn’t fit the dimensions, we made a mistake in the lower gap - in winter it is extremely difficult to open the gate, one of the walls of the garage sank more, which caused the opening to skew, and others that are sometimes difficult to foresee.

In each of these cases, the decision is made individually, but we will consider several simple methods that are available if you have a simple tool with an assistant.

Methods for raising (correcting geometry) gates

1. The hinges are sagging (the gate is deformed, or something else). To lift (for example, one leaf) you can use a spacer washer. We remove the sash from its hinges, put a washer of the required thickness on the axis of the lower hinge, and return the sash to its place. Sometimes it is difficult to find a washer, then we put a ball of the appropriate diameter into the loop where the hole is.

   This method allows you to correct minor distortions of the gates, raise the gate a little, and make it easier to move on the hinge. Very important! The material of the washer and ball must be made of a harder alloy than the loop itself!

2. The need to change the distance from ground level to the bottom of the doors.

   The easiest way is to cut off the lower part with a grinder, and then secure a rubber strip to eliminate the gap. Applicable if the sheathing metal sheet protrudes beyond the lower frame beams. If the gate is mounted so that the lower beam is at ground level, you will need to first cut off the beam, then the metal, and weld the beam in place.

   By the way, in our practice there are designs where the lower part (about 10 cm) is mounted on hinges, and when the gate is opened it can be folded back.

3. The sash is skewed due to the deformation of the opening.

   If you don’t touch the opening, then the easiest way to determine the skew zone (as a rule, the sashes do not close at the top or bottom) is to cut the horizontal beam on the sash that does not fit, and file off a few mm. With force (you may need a jack), we press the vertical beam of the frame and weld it. Up to gaps of 7-12 mm, deformations of the sheet metal will be invisible.

   Be sure to weld the welding area with an additional metal strip, since residual deformations will occur here! If you do not strengthen this place, the welding seam will simply break over time.

4. The need to increase the height of the opening. The most difficult case, which will require time, the ability to lay bricks, and additional equipment. How to do this can be found on construction websites. We will consider a situation where the problem was solved more simply.

An example of a simple solution in a complex situation

So, the new car did not fit the dimensions of the top of the garage opening. 6-7 cm across the width of the car itself, 14 cm on the right - left, in places where roof rails are installed (by the way, one of the most common reasons when you need to raise the gate in height!).

Some garage craftsmen immediately advised disassembling the upper part of the opening (reducing the number of rows of bricks is a generally accepted approach), and re-welding the frame, thus increasing the height of the opening. In fact, raising the entire top part by 14 cm (2.5 rows of bricks) is very difficult, but this was not required. How the problem was resolved.

1. In the floor of the garage (concrete, like the entrance with a slope of about 2 meters long), grooves were made, each 2 - 2.5 tires wide, 10 cm deep. At the same time, the entrance level was lowered to avoid the roof of the car touching the upper frame in case of maneuver when leaving . The bottom of the track was covered with corrugated metal, fixed to the floor.
2. Using another car as an example (garage cooperatives are good because there is always an almost identical car - in this case, without roof rails). Take into account the difference in tire height. We determined the gap between the roof of the car and the upper frame in the maximum unloaded state - 7 cm.
3. On the left and right, in the upper part of the opening, 60 cm of channel were cut out (the middle part was supported with beams just in case). They knocked out several bricks and scalded the resulting U-shaped slots with a channel, which they secured into the brick.
4. We checked a smooth check-in and check-out with the desired car, making sure that everything was done correctly.
5. After this, we had to slightly raise the necessary sheets, since the gates no longer covered these holes, which was done locally after the doors had already been put in place.

At this point the work was completed. They took three days, the help of a neighbor in the garage was required, there was no need to struggle with the task of how to lift the entire upper part of the frame (at the same time increasing the gate).

We hope that when you are faced with a similar problem, this article will help you to be smart, use simple solutions, and not try to solve the problem head-on, as experts on the Internet advise.

Source: http://VorotaGate.ru/garazhnye-vorota/kak-podnyat

Do-it-yourself garage doors: how to make them from a profile and how to raise the structure in a brick garage

Today there are a huge number of garage door designs. They differ in design elements, as well as in the quality of filling. Some people prefer primitive models, while others equip their car storage with more powerful systems.

Making a garage door with your own hands is an excellent option for those who want to equip such a structure with durable gates that are the most suitable in size and content.

What types of garage doors are there and is it possible to design them yourself without the help of professionals and without experience in this matter?

Types of garage doors

There are several types of garage doors, most of which have appeared recently.

And before you figure out how to make garage doors with your own hands, let’s look at the types of similar products:

Swing gates

Swing gates for garage.

The most ancient and at the same time reliable version of the gate. Such structures are installed everywhere: they can be used not only to equip garages, they have earned the trust of many years of trouble-free practice, even under harsh operating conditions.

The design of these samples consists of 2 sashes fixed on hinges in the frame. The doors, if everything is assembled correctly, close tightly without forming gaps between the frame. The operating mechanism of swing gates is simple, but, as practice shows, it is very reliable.

Retractable type

Gates first came into use at the beginning of the twentieth century. By design, it is one leaf that slides to the side parallel to the front wall. There are designs consisting of two doors. In this case, the doors will move apart in different directions.

There may also be sliding gates that fold into several sections. A feature of the design of such models is the mandatory presence of free space for moving the valves. Therefore, such structures are most often used to equip hangars and industrial premises.

Lift-and-swing mechanisms

Lift gate design.

Their development and production in our country began not so long ago. By design, it is one sheet that rises upward. This option is suitable for equipping a garage and creating an entrance to a private plot.

Up-and-over sectional doors

Like the previous version, the models appeared on our market relatively recently. They are a panel assembled from sections that are refracted and moved upward along the guides when the command to open the gate is given by a remote control or a button.

The mechanism operates due to the spring and guides with a chain drive. One of the most important advantages is saving space.

Roller type gates

Garages are extremely rarely equipped with such structures, due to their low reliability. Externally – aluminum plates folding into a special box under the ceiling. Facilities with security and access control systems are most often equipped with similar structures.

When choosing garage doors, it is important to take into account not only their appearance, functionality and reviews from advertisers, but also other, more important indicators: strength, durability and the ability to work in specific climatic conditions.

As mentioned earlier, the most reliable and durable option would be swing gates: they work even in any frost and can protect the room not only from frost, but also from burglary if equipped with a good locking system.

Do-it-yourself gates: features of the work

Based on the fact that swing gates are most often used to equip garages, let’s look at an example of how to make a simple but very reliable structure with your own hands.

Features of welding garage doors.

Having purchased all the necessary consumables and prepared some tools, you can make swinging garage doors on your own from start to finish.

For their installation you will need the following materials:

• steel corners;
• profiles;
• metal sheets.

The dimensions of the gate doors and their features can be designed in advance, which makes it possible to make a design that best suits the parameters of the building and the aesthetic preferences of its owner.

You can try to make up-and-over gates on your own, but the work requires considerable engineering experience and knowledge. In this case, it is important to understand how the counterweight system is organized and the mechanism itself is installed so that the system works without any complaints.

Most often, structures of this type are purchased ready-made, and their installation is carried out according to the instructions attached to the product.

Therefore, if you want to equip your garage with just such a system, then it is advisable to purchase a ready-made product.

Now let’s take a closer look at the specifics of manufacturing swing garage doors.

Garage door design

Drawing of a gate with a garage door.

As with any construction project that requires high precision, before you start making garage doors, you need to make a design for the future structure.

It’s not difficult to make a drawing of a garage door yourself; just sketch it on a regular sheet of paper, measure all the important elements and indicate the location of the loop connections, the entrance, if it is intended in the project, and the locking system.

First you need to choose the right height and width of the structure. The minimum width of the doors is considered to be one at which the distance from the car body on both sides to the frame remains at least 30 cm. Of course, the larger this gap, the easier and more convenient it is to drive the car into the garage.

In practice, the maximum frame width is 5 meters. Most often, gates are made 2.5-3 meters wide.

The height of the products is selected depending on the dimensions of the vehicle. Most often it is 2-2.2 meters. If a minibus is stored in the garage, then it is better to expand this parameter to 2.5 meters.

In our case, the structure will consist of a frame and a pair of sashes fixed to it with hinges. Guided by the project and the dimensions indicated on it, we calculate and purchase the required number of consumables.

Gate frame manufacturing

It is best to start making the frame at the stage of erecting the walls of the garage structure. This will allow the gate to be secured in the body of the building, which will make the entire structure more reliable and durable.

During the process of laying the front wall, when up to 0.5 m of masonry is ready, construction work is suspended and retrained for the installation of a gate frame, after which the construction of walls can continue.

To make the frame you will need 65 mm steel corners, strips 2-3 cm wide, 3-4 mm thick and a reinforcing rod with which the frame will be secured in the opening of the structure. As for tools, the work requires a grinder, a square, a building level, a tape measure and a welding machine.

The garage frame in our case consists of outer and inner parts.

The manufacturing algorithm for this structural element is as follows:

1. Using a grinder, we cut the corner into 4 pieces of length equal to the width of the gate opening.
   You will also need 4 more pieces of length equal to the height of the gate opening.
2. We place the cut parts of the corner on a flat surface, checking it in advance with a building level for distortion, which is unacceptable at this stage of the construction process.
   We measure all the angles - they should be equal to 90° and use a welding machine to weld them together. As a result, you should get an even frame. The corners are welded either overlapping, or by cutting off their edges and welding butt to butt. The first option is more durable than the second.
3. From the outside of the frame, carefully remove all welding flaws using a grinder.
   Otherwise, the protruding seams will prevent the sashes from fitting tightly to the frame.

Manufacturing of sash frames

Next we move on to manufacturing the frame of the gate leaves. It should be slightly smaller in size than the garage door frame itself, which will ensure its easier entry into the opening. Compliance with this condition contributes to a tighter fit of the sashes to the outside of the frame.

The algorithm for manufacturing the frame part of the valves consists of performing the following actions:

1. First of all, you need to cut 4 lengths from the corner or profile, 1-1.5 cm shorter than the height of the frame.
   Thanks to this gap, the sashes will easily fit into the opening. Since this design assumes the presence of two sashes, 4 more horizontal sections will be required, with a length equal to the width of the main frame, divided in half and minus 3-3.5 cm.
2. We place the cut parts of the corner on a flat surface, check them for distortion, measure the corners and weld them.
   It is better if this process is carried out together with an already welded frame - this way all the flaws and inaccuracies will be visible.
3. In order to strengthen the structure, we weld a horizontal bar, which acts as a spacer and reduces the risk of slippage and distortion of the future structure.

Manufacturing of gate leaves

The doors are usually made of sheet material. The most practical and reliable is a sheet with a thickness of at least 2 mm.

Garage door stiffeners.

The process of creating gate leaves is as follows:

1. First of all, it is necessary to cut 2 sheets from sheet metal: one is 30-40 mm higher in height than the height of the garage opening and less than 10-20 mm in width than the width of the frame, the other is the same in height and 20 mm wider in width than the frame.
2. The next stage is welding the panels to the frame so that the top and bottom of the panels protrude onto the frame by 10-20 mm.
   One of the sashes, which will open secondarily, should not fit tightly into the edge of the frame in width, leaving a 10 mm edge free. This will ensure a tighter fit of the second flap. On the contrary, we weld the panel of the second sash so that it protrudes beyond the frame part by 20-40 mm.
3. Next we proceed to welding the reinforced hinges.
   The lower half is welded to the main frame, and the upper half is welded to the sashes. To strengthen the fastening, the hinges can be supplemented with a welded metal insert. We take a strip 5-7 mm thick, bend it and weld it to the upper half of the hinges and to the sash. The reinforcement tab is welded from the inside.

Advice! During welding of sheet material, it may lead. To avoid distortion of the sashes, first of all, the corners and middle of the sheets are tacked by welding, after which the entire sheet is tacked with point movements in increments of 10-15 cm.

If all the structural elements are on a flat surface, the sashes are located on top of the frame, it is possible to examine whether everything is welded correctly and where there are any flaws. This makes it possible to take timely measures to eliminate inaccuracies.

If the design is of high quality, then after this work we begin installing the gate in the garage opening.

Gate installation

First of all, you should install the gate frames: internal and external. Let us remind you that the frame part is installed at the stage of erecting the front wall of the garage structure itself. Do not forget to check the evenness of the frame using a square and a building level.

After this, you can continue laying out the front wall of the structure, embedding the rods into the masonry.

Having reached the top of the structure, a floor beam should be installed on the frame. It can be metal or concrete - at the discretion of the developer. All that remains is to hang the doors on the hinges and check the functionality of the entire gate mechanism: how the doors open/close, whether anything interferes with their movement.

Insulation and installation of constipations and locks

Such structures can be insulated with different materials, ranging from polystyrene foam to mineral wool.

But recently, extruded polystyrene foam is increasingly used for such purposes. It is fixed by laying clapboard or other facing material on it: just spread the insulation inside the sashes and stuff, for example, sheets of plywood on top.

All that remains is to choose a locking system. Garage structures are most often equipped with a locking and locking system: one door is locked from the inside with a lock, the other is closed from the outside with a padlock, padlock or internal. If it is a padlock, then it is necessary to equip the doors with rings on the outside.

Bottom line

If you follow the tips described above and carefully check the correct dimensions, then it is quite possible to get a strong, reliable garage door that will serve you faithfully for a long time. The design makes it possible to insulate the gate by laying foam on the inside and making lining.

Making a garage door with your own hands takes about 2 days. This product will have unique sizes and designs if you want to make something special. Good luck!

Source: https://vseprogarazh.ru/etapy/vorota/garazhnye-vorota-svoimi-rukami/

How to increase the height of a garage door: a step-by-step master class - Mastremont.ru

Often the owner is not satisfied with the height of the gate of a finished garage. Perhaps a person decided to buy a new car, say, an SUV, the height of which is higher than ordinary cars, or there was a need to use the garage for other purposes, when you need to drive a small truck, for example, a Gazelle, inside.

But gates for a private garage were previously created using a certain amount of metal in order to save money - the calculation of the amount of materials used was made taking into account the size of a standard steel sheet 2-3 mm thick (photo 1).

Photo 1. Standard garage doors

Today, the height of garage doors has ceased to suit some owners, and many have begun to increase this size (photo 2).

Photo 2. The height of the front wall allows you to increase the gate

Purchasing materials and choosing tools

Of course, you can invite specialists who will do this quickly and efficiently. However, not everyone has enough money to pay hired workers and buy the materials they use. Often craftsmen require the purchase of new metal, which costs an order of magnitude more than previously used metal.

In turn, the garage owner can select the necessary rolled metal from an organization that collects scrap metal. Material selected from scrap can cost 2-3 times less than what you will have to pay for new rolled metal. At the same time, the strength of metal structures made from old metal is quite enough to ensure the strength of the finished product.

But it is not recommended to save on tools and equipment. It is necessary to prepare the workplace by installing strong scaffolding at the required height - when performing work, the person must be in a stable position, which will prevent him from falling with a working tool and getting injured.

The hammer drill and angle grinder must be powerful, and equipment such as drills and cutting wheels must be of good quality, on which the speed of work completion and worker safety will depend.

For example, to cut a brick wall, it is recommended to use special diamond cutting wheels. For welding, it is enough to use a small inverter welding machine, operating from a regular 220V network and welding metal with electrodes with a diameter of 3-4 mm.

I would like to add that such work should be undertaken by a person who has at least a little idea of ​​how to use specialized equipment and has some practical skills in using such tools.

Tools and accessories

• Scaffolding;
• Powerful angle grinder;
• Hammer or powerful drill;
• Plumb;
• Construction level;
• Inverter welding machine;
• Welding mask (it is recommended to choose a “Chameleon” type mask);
• Welding gloves and preferably a welding suit;
• Two cutting wheels for metal;
• Cutting wheels for concrete, one of which has a maximum diameter (photos 3 and 4);
• Metal drill d=8.5 mm;
• Concrete drill d=8 mm;
• MP3 electrodes with a diameter of 3 mm, although you can also work with 4 mm electrodes;
• Hammer;
• Bit;
• Open-end wrench 13 for anchor bolts;
• Polyethylene film to protect the garage from dust;
• Respirator for respiratory protection;
• Special glasses that protect your eyes from dust and small stones formed when making channels for a new gate frame;
• Clothing that maximally protects areas of the body from dust.

Photo 3. Set of cutting wheels for concrete

Photo 4. Cutting wheel for concrete of maximum diameter

Materials

• A corner with a shelf width of 40-75 mm for extending the gate frame (focus on the corner from which the frame is already made);
• Corner with a shelf width of 30-35 mm for the gate frame;
• Sheet trimmings 2-2.5 mm thick.

The quantity of rolled metal and sheet dimensions are calculated based on the area by which the gate will increase.

Procedure for building up gates

The scaffolding is installed firmly and stably.

The outline of the new garage door frame is outlined.

A plastic film is fixed inside the garage in such a way as to prevent dust generated during work from entering the room.

A corner prepared for extending the gate frame is cut, with each segment marked about its location in the structure.

The brickwork of the garage walls is cut along the contour of the new door frame, first from the outside of the garage. It is better to make a horizontal cut of the wall along the seam located between the bricks (photo 5), which will facilitate smooth laying of the channel and further removal of excess masonry.

Photo 5. Sawing a masonry seam

The vertical cut is made along the intended contour (photo 6) with a maximum recess into the existing part of the frame for ease of installation of the new structure (photo 7).

Photo 6. Cut along the intended contour

Photo 7. Recess in the frame

The sufficiency of the groove depth is checked by the segment remaining when cutting a corner with a flange width of 40-75 mm (photo 8).

Photo 8. Checking the depth of the groove

After completing the cut from the outside (photo 9), the corner sections for the frame are installed (photo 10) with careful welding of the seams at the junctions of the sections (photo 11). When installing corner pieces, it is advisable to check their location using a plumb line and a building level.

After checking, the structural elements are fixed in some way, after which the seams are welded.

In the case of the extension, which is shown in the photographs, the gates were installed incorrectly during the construction of the garage, which had to be compensated for by adjusting the newly created structure of the frame and leaves, which will be especially noticeable in the photographs with the already enlarged gates. When performing welding work, it is recommended to have fire extinguishing equipment nearby.

Photo 9. The cut is ready

Photo 10. Installing pieces for the corner of the frame

Photo 11. It is necessary to carefully weld the seams at the junctions of the segments

For better attachment to the existing masonry of the structure being created, it is advisable to use anchor spacer bolts (photo 12).

Photo 12. In these conditions, it is best to use anchor expansion bolts

The diameter of the bolts used is 8 mm with a length of 60 mm (photo 13). It is enough to secure the horizontal section of the corner in four places. First, using an 8.5 mm metal drill, a hole is drilled in the corner to the brickwork, and then the hole for the anchor bolt is deepened with an 8 mm concrete drill to the required depth. After this, anchor bolts are inserted and the structure is attached to the wall.

Photo 13. Anchor expansion bolts 60 mm long and 8 mm in diameter

After assembling and fixing the new structure from the outside, the necessary cuts are made to the wall from the inside, after which the gate frame elements are assembled in the same order and fastened from the inside.

The next stage is the preparation of parts for building up the sashes. To do this, cut existing sheets and cut a corner with a flange width of 30-35 mm into pieces of the required length.

Next, the fabric of the extendable section of each of the gate leaves is assembled. The assembled sections of the panels are butt welded from above to the gate leaves, and for fixation they are tacked to a new section of the frame by spot welding in several places (photo 14).

Photo 14. Assembling the canvas and fixing it to the frame by spot welding

After this, the excess brick is removed from inside the garage, carefully chipping away using the tools of a chisel and a hammer. Before removing excess sections of the wall, it is also necessary to secure the inside of the extensional gate frame structure with anchor bolts (photo 15).

Photo 15. The inner part of the canvas also needs to be secured with anchor bolts

When unnecessary pieces of the wall are removed, additional strengthening of the frame structure is performed and the growing part of the gate leaves is reinforced with a frame (photo 16). All new structural elements that increase the size of the gate are carefully welded, since the strength of the finished product depends on this.

Photo 16. The entire structure is thoroughly boiled

The lower gate latches are adjusted to fit when new elements are added to the existing frame (photo 17). Then the floor is poured to the required level, or the gate frame from below is completely built up.

Photo 17. Adjusting the lower locks

The upper gate latches are extended and adjusted along the upper edge of the enlarged frame (photo 18).

Photo 18. Extension and adjustment of upper constipations

On the outside of the gate, the upper hinges are cut off and welded higher due to the increased size of the door leaves (photos 19 and 20).

Photo 19. Changing the location of the hinges on the outside (right side)

Photo 20. Changing the location of the hinges on the outside (left side)

The final stage is painting the gate with special paint (photo 21). It is recommended to use a paint composition that performs three functions - the paint replaces the primer,, if necessary, transforms rust and creates a protective paint layer on the metal.

Photo 21. New painted gates

If a person has some skills in working with special tools for concrete and has an understanding of welding work, then he will be able to build gates on his own, thereby saving significant funds from the family budget.

Date: 2013-07-16 11:03:26
The need to raise the garage door may arise in some cases. As an example, we can consider a situation where, due to their too low position in relation to the ground, the structure is not easy to open even in the summer months. What then can we say about winter, when frozen ice and snow prevent its opening? Of course, as an option, you can simply trim the structure and concrete the entrance itself - this way you will ensure a natural slope and removal of water. However, this method only involves reducing the size of the product. A how to raise a garage door? Let's try together to find the answer to this difficult question.

To work, you will need a brick, a channel, water and the garage door itself. As you can see, nothing special. When everything is at hand, you can start doing the work.

Getting Started

Let's consider a situation where there is a need to maintain the current level of the garage, as well as raise its doors. Let's consider the step-by-step execution of the operation. First, the garage door must be removed, and then the frame must be freed. Next, we remove several rows of bricks directly above the opening and raise the gate itself. Finally, in the lower section, you can raise the fill and return the structure to its original position.

Now let's take a closer look, how to raise a garage door. Before removing them from the hinges, wash the mortar between the bricks of the row to which you will remove them, and install a channel or at least a reliable corner in its place. This operation should be performed before raising the garage door. This way you can save the building structure from destruction, otherwise the consequences could be very dire. Using anchor bolts, securely fasten the selected channel or angle.

Other Possible Problems

Sometimes the difficulty can be the height of the garage door. In this case, the problem becomes more complicated, since its elimination will require certain experience and skills in the construction field. The solution we offer is designed for brick caravans. Above you can read a detailed description of the actions; for this you need to knock out one or two rows of masonry. After this, it is necessary to strengthen the resulting slope, after which the frame itself rises to the required height.

Let's summarize. There are various ways to solve the problem of raising garage doors. You can choose the best option for your situation. I would like to repeat that the simplest and easiest method of increasing the clearance between the garage door and the floor is to trim it using a grinder.

Sometimes, after raising the gate by one or two bricks, the clearance between it and the floor increases significantly. You can get rid of this problem in various ways. One of them is concreting. You can also install a threshold. In any case, make sure that the slope is directed from the garage to the street. If this is not done, water will flow into the garage during rain, filling it with dampness. And this, as you know, is very harmful to the car and the premises itself.

When building a garage, many nuances are taken into account. One of them is the height of the gate, and we are talking not only about the height of the opening, but also about the height of the doors above the ground level. The article will discuss the reasons why it is important to correctly calculate this height. In some cases, it is necessary to raise garage doors in a brick garage higher due to certain circumstances. The article will also describe several ways in which this can be done.

Why raise the gate?

When it comes to the need to raise gates, it concerns swing structures. There is no such problem for folding structures, since they are able to automatically change their level. There are several reasons why you have to resort to lifting the gate:

• hinge wear;
• frame deformation;
• incorrect design;
• violation of the integrity of the foundation;
• replacement of vehicle.

Old gate designs are made of sheet metal, which has a thickness of 3 millimeters or more. This gate design itself is quite heavy, so it is normal that over time they begin to sag. The reason for this may be poor quality metal hinges. The rods lose their strength and the doors partially tilt forward. This complicates or makes the normal process of closing the gate difficult or impossible.

Another reason why the gate needs to be raised is wear of the metal angle. In most cases, beams with a width of 20 cm are used, but to save money, small corners are used, which begin to deform under constant loads. In this case, the geometry of the frame is disrupted, which leads to problems with the gate. When designed correctly, swing gates are never placed flush with the ground. Even with proper installation, this approach can become a problem in winter. The metal can be deformed under the influence of low temperatures and the doors will not open because they will cling to the asphalt.

Another problem that manifests itself when the gate level is low is precipitation. If there is a significant amount of snow in the winter, you have to work hard to clear the area near the gate before entering or leaving the garage. If there is heavy rain, water will simply seep into the garage, which can create serious problems, especially if the garage has an inspection hole or basement. In some cases, due to ground movements, a problem with deformation of the lower part of the frame may arise. This also results in the need to raise the gate. Walls can also become deformed, which leads to sagging of the gate and the impossibility of opening it.

In-line gate repair

In repairs, one should distinguish between two operations, completely different in labor intensity and complexity of execution:

1. Raise one or both doors without dismantling the frame, posts or body on which the garage door is attached;
2. Major repairs or replacement of the frame, in this case it is necessary to dismantle the masonry and lift or remove the welded frame structure on which the sashes are hung.

Advice! If you do not have welding skills, it is better to entrust any replacement of frames or sashes to specialists.

How to raise a garage door with your own hands

The simplest and most accessible procedure, if you have the skill, you can try to lift even a very heavy sash alone. For example, if the wear of the friction surface of the hinges has reached its limit, and the garage door begins to cling to the upper edge of the blind area, it is necessary to insert repair washers. Please note that it would be correct to install two thin steel washers made of hardened polished steel. The total thickness of the washers should be such as to increase the height of the garage door leaf above the threshold beam. Each washer has a cutout to fit the width of the hinge's turning axis and is lubricated on one side only.

In this case, there is no need to even lift and remove the garage door; you just need to lift it a few millimeters in order to insert a pair of steel washers into the resulting gap in the hinges. To raise the gate leaves, you need to turn them at an angle of more than 90 O , then install a wooden or steel wedge under the lower edge of the sash, as close as possible to the axis of rotation. A few hits on the wedge will help raise the gate by 2-3 mm. Then you can insert a rolling jack, raise the sash to any height and even remove it if necessary. If the hinges are completely out of order, you have to lift them and digest them.

Repairs are carried out in the same way if, due to deformation of the hinges or frame of the garage door, the doors sag. In this case, place a jack under the edge of the sash, as far as possible from the axis of rotation, and begin to slowly lift it, using a sledgehammer to use a sledgehammer to hammer down the area where the hinge or frame is deformed. If the sash structure has a gate, it must be secured with bolts or a tie, but not removed. Most often, in 5-6 transitions it is possible to straighten the gate; if not, you need to raise it to the maximum height, install the jack in a horizontal position with emphasis on the opposite post of the frame and “squeeze out the geometry” of the frame until the beams and hinges are completely aligned.

Raising the garage door frame

The most difficult and time-consuming operation to repair a garage door is lifting the frame. The heavy steel structure is concreted into the brick sides, so before lifting the structure, the lifting space must be cleared and the gate leaves must be removed.

If the frame together with the doors is planned to be raised above ground level due to subsidence of the garage foundation, before raising the gate, you will need to knock out the top part of the masonry by a brick or two, depending on the height of the lift. Using a hammer drill or a construction hammer and chisel, knock out the cement from under the side posts of the frame and the threshold beam.

Using a regular crowbar, pry up the lower part of the frame and lift it to a small height, first in the center, and after installing the first wedge, try to lift it from the left and right edges in the same way. If you manage to raise the frame, then hammer in the side wedges. They are usually placed on the opposite side of the threshold beam. After increasing the gap to 5-6 cm, it is necessary to install a rolling jack up to 5 tons, and then lift the structure using a hydraulic mechanism.

The upper frame beam is raised in the same way. Most often it is necessary to lift it if it is necessary to increase the height of the garage door without dismantling it. After knocking out the top rows of bricks with a grinder, cut off a piece of vertical posts on both sides along with the upper horizontal part of the frame. The cut is made above the hinge welding points.

The weight of the cut part of the frame is no more than 70 kg, so it can be easily lifted with a regular jack installed on the threshold. A log or beam is inserted between the top bar and the jack and carefully raised to the desired height. After this, cut pieces of similar material are welded into the gap formed in the frame.

Conclusion

It is necessary to lift a heavy frame in compliance with safety regulations. Often, when trying to lift the frame, the heavy structure tilted and tipped over on the workers, so experts recommend installing spacers and blocking cable braces.