How to insulate the floor on a loggia with your own hands under the tiles: photo. How to insulate the floor on a balcony - practical recommendations and installation tips How to insulate the floors on a loggia with your own hands

When solving the problem of energy saving in residential premises, it is necessary to coordinate many diverse tasks. Among them are the effectiveness of thermal insulation, safety issues, and compliance with important dimensions. How to insulate the floor on a balcony or loggia in order to use this space as a living space? There is no single answer for all situations. In this article we will look at the main modern technologies and the limits of their capabilities. We will present the features of the use of each type of thermal insulation from the point of view of:

• the order of work and the materials used;
• reaching elevations;
• ease of surface preparation different kinds floor coverings;
• difficulty level.

This sprayed material is a champion in heat conservation: its insulating properties are 2% - 5% better than those of extruded polystyrene foam, which ranks second. However, this technology is almost never used for insulating balconies. Economic feasibility of use special equipment appears when working on areas of at least several tens of square meters. In some cases, it makes sense to carry out insulation of this type in rooms with attached loggias. Work is being carried out on wooden lathing. The rough covering is completed with slabs of moisture-resistant plywood.

The technology is not suitable for independent use.

Application of mineral wool

Not the most obvious material for floor insulation. However, in some cases it will be correct to use it.

In addition to rolled wool or mats, you will need wooden beam 40 mm wide and height corresponding to the thickness of the insulator used. For example, this could be moldings with a section of 40×70 mm. As a substrate for finishing flooring chipboard is used, OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood, mounted with a gap of about 3 mm relative to each other. The minimum permissible thickness of all listed plates is 16 mm. If the balcony is not planned to be connected to living quarters or to be equipped with heated floors, then work must begin by applying a layer of liquid or roll waterproofing on concrete.

First, the timber is cut crossbars, which are installed at intervals of no more than 60 cm. If insulation is performed in one layer, then the jumpers must be positioned in a horizontal plane using pads. When using the second layer, only the upper longitudinal beams are leveled with mounting wedges. The distance between the longitudinal moldings should not exceed 50 cm. It is not necessary to ensure that the beams adjoin the walls. We allow a gap of up to 10 cm (this applies to both layers of the structure). The lower lintels are attached to the concrete with anchors, the upper ones - to the lower ones with self-tapping screws. After installing the slabs and foaming the gaps between their ends and the walls, the stage of the rough insulated floor is considered complete.

There is no point in using mineral wool less than 70 mm thick to insulate the floor on the balcony. Thus, the minimum change in height at the roughing stage will be about 90 mm (counting from the top point of the concrete base). But, taking into account the not the best hygroscopicity of this heat insulator, it is still better to insulate the floor with 2 layers of cotton wool. Then the total thickness of the structure will be 160 - 200 mm, depending on the cross-section of the beams and the thickness of the slabs.

Linoleum, laminate (with backing) and carpet can be laid on chipboard, plywood and OSB without any additional preparation. Installation of ceramic tiles is difficult. It's possible special glue after increasing the adhesion of the slabs using serpyanka fasteners, a primer in several layers, or laying additional materials - gypsum plasterboard, fiberglass board, glass-magnesite sheets.

In general, the technology up to the stage of subflooring and even laying the finishing coating (with the exception of ceramic tiles) is quite simple and quite within the capabilities of a non-professional. However, you will still need help - at least to transport the slab materials to the apartment.

How to insulate a balcony floor with penoplex

One of the simplest and effective technologies. Penoplex boards are glued to dust-free and primed concrete base. Special sampling at the ends allows you to avoid cold bridges. The gaps between the walls and the penoplex are carefully foamed. It is best to use a “glue-foam” type composition that can perform both operations. It is important that the product does not contain toluene (this component destroys polystyrene foam).

Last 10 years extruded penoplex high density is the standard for floor insulation under subsequent ceramic tile cladding. Using this material, you can achieve the minimum possible change in elevations.

Thus, a slab with a thickness of 40 mm provides approximately the same level of heat saving as a layer of mineral wool 60 - 70 mm after a year of operation.

High strength properties make it possible, subject to certain conditions, to lay some finishing coatings on penoplex without intermediate cement-sand screed. What are these conditions? Firstly, the polystyrene foam must be adjacent to the adhesive layer over the entire area. Secondly, you should not use “foam glue”, but a mixture like tile adhesive under a comb. Thirdly, only laminated floors can be laid without screed. A layer of polyethylene film is laid between the elastic backing and the penoplex (the joints of the film are sealed with tape).

Scheme of floor insulation on a balcony with penoplex from the official manufacturer’s instructions

Laying linoleum and ceramic tiles requires a screed on top of the penoplex. However, minimum thickness this filling is a debatable issue. Manufacturers of polystyrene foam insulation recommend a layer of at least 45 - 50 mm. However, this is done to protect against claims. Construction practice over the past 5 - 7 years has shown that high-quality thin self-leveling fills (1.5 cm - 2.0 cm) are quite sufficient preparation for installing ceramic tiles on penoplex. The screed is arranged “floating”, that is, nylon or metal grid to increase adhesion. Provides only polyethylene film as a vapor barrier. The final leveling of the tiles can be carried out using the adhesive layer.

An alternative finishing screed is to use plywood sheets with a thickness of 10 - 12 mm.

Of course, the lack of finishing concrete pouring, or using plywood instead is possible if the concrete slab of your balcony has a flat surface.

Within one day, you can insulate the floor on the balcony with your own hands without outside help:

• bring lightweight penoplex into the apartment,
• remove dust from the concrete base,
• glue the plates,
• foam the cracks and
• lay polyethylene on top.

For some time it will be possible to walk (but not in high-heeled shoes, of course) on the insulation covered with film - nothing will happen to it. You have time to choose calmly finishing coat And experienced craftsman on its laying and pre-screeding device.

“Good old” polystyrene foam

Polystyrene foam is produced on the basis of the same polystyrene as materials such as penoplex. However, foam plastics are inferior to extruded boards in terms of strength and hygroscopicity. The relatively low price is the only reason why foam plastics have not yet been replaced construction market more modern insulation.

Due to low strength, floor insulation with foam plastic is done using wooden logs, as is the case with mineral wool. There are 2 differences in installing foam plastic on the floor instead of cotton wool:

1. The wooden beam must be higher than the layer of material being laid.
2. The joints between polystyrene foam and wood must be foamed.

Installation of electric heated floors on balconies and loggias

The only legally permitted way to install heating in these areas is to install electric heated floors. The use of a special cable requires it to be laid in a concrete screed. The use of low-power electric mats is permissible directly under the finishing coating.

Heating the floor on a balcony or loggia makes sense if this room is not combined with a room, but it is planned to be used as a living space (for example, to equip a small office there). Due to the large glazing area (increased heat loss), the choice of electrical warm floor The right thing to do is to use a powerful cable. It is technologically advisable to provide floor insulation made of extruded polystyrene foam for such heating. This solution is better than others in terms of the total cost of all work and materials. In addition, it is optimal if you need to minimize the increase in elevation.

Summary

The answer to the question “how to insulate the floor on a balcony?” depends, first of all, on two points: obtaining the required elevation and the desire to carry out the insulation yourself.

If you want to minimize the thermal insulation layer and simplify the work to the limit, you need to choose penoplex. The desire to raise the floor level on the balcony flush with the room justifies the use of mineral wool along the joists in two layers.

However, if you have from previous repair work There are other thermal insulation materials left, it would be right to prefer them for equipping the balcony.

And finally, if you are the proud owner covered terrace with an area of ​​20 - 30 sq. m., it is better to invite a team specializing in insulating structures and premises using sprayed materials.

To turn a balcony from a cluttered and cold “nook” used for storing unnecessary things into a full-fledged room for work and rest, you need to work hard. And, first of all, solve one of the main issues related to the remodeling of this room - how to insulate the floor on the balcony?

Positive aspects of insulation

Some may think that the cost of insulating a balcony is an “excessive luxury” available only to wealthy people who “have nowhere to put their money.” However, this is not at all true, because ensuring high-quality thermal insulation is the only way to make a balcony suitable for living, and, therefore, increase the area of ​​​​your apartment by several square meters. So, this stage of improvement cannot be neglected.

In addition, the advantages of insulating the floor and other surfaces on the balcony are quite obvious. The basis of this room is concrete plates, characterized by low thermal insulation characteristics. They may freeze when exposed negative temperatures in the cold season and collect condensation on yourself. So, without insulating the balcony, it is simply impossible to make high-quality repairs on it and use it to its full potential as a living room. In addition, the advantages of insulating the floor on the balcony include:

• Possibility of reducing overall heat loss in the apartment and improving the microclimate in the room adjacent to the balcony.
• Expansion of useful living space, which is especially important for small-sized apartments.
• Providing better sound insulation of the apartment.

Preparatory work and tools

Do-it-yourself insulation of the floor on the balcony begins with the preparation stage for the main work. It consists of several sequential operations. These include:

• Balcony glazing.
• Removing old flooring.
• Thoroughly clean the base of the balcony from residues construction dust and garbage. If the contamination is very large, a full-fledged wet cleaning. However, in this case, following works You can start on the balcony only after its concrete base has completely dried.
• Sealing cavities and cracks in the base. To do this, the potholes and cracks on the balcony floor must first be expanded using a grinder, and then filled with cement-sand or epoxy (if necessary, to speed up the work as much as possible) mortar.
• Filling joints between floors and walls and fencing slabs cement mortar or polyurethane foam. Priming the insulated surface.
• Waterproofing the base of the balcony.

In order for the planned work to be completed quickly and efficiently, you should stock up on the appropriate tools and equipment, including:

• Hammer, construction knife and a pistol.
• Drill with hammer drill and attachments for screwing in dowels.
• Electric jigsaw.
• Tape measure and pencil.
• Self-tapping screws and dowels.

Features of floor insulation under tiles

Ceramic tiles are often used as a material for finishing the floor on a balcony. It is quite inexpensive, looks attractive and serves a long period time, without fear of changes in temperature and humidity. However, due to the fact that ceramic tiles have a fairly high level of thermal conductivity, most of the time they are cool and even cold. That is, the sensations from touching such a floor with your feet will not be very pleasant. Therefore, the final floor covering of this type requires particularly careful insulation.

A good solution to the problem, as correctly, is to use the “Warm Floor” system, laid in a cement screed or directly in tile adhesive.

And now we invite you to watch a video on how to insulate the floor on a balcony. The video shows an option using mineral wool.

The presence of a loggia provides you not only extra space in your apartment, but also with new tasks for insulating the room. However, glazing and insulating walls may not be enough. In order for the balcony to be used as part of the living room, it is very important to properly insulate the floor, this will save 25% more heat. You can place it on the balcony houseplants, equip a small recreation area there or come up with another way to use the extra meters.

In this article we will talk about the most effective and available ways floor insulation on the loggia, which you can implement with your own hands. You will receive answers to the following questions:

• How to prepare the floor on the loggia for work?
• What thermal insulation materials are best to use?
• How to calculate the required amount of materials?
• How to lay material for high-quality protection from the cold?

Before you begin thermal insulation of the floor on the balcony, you must make sure that the slab is in satisfactory condition. To do this, you need to inspect the balcony and check management company, is it planned major renovation, and also find out what load the slab can withstand.

After this you can start taking measurements. It is necessary to write down the exact dimensions of the width and length of the balcony in order to purchase a sufficient amount of materials.

In addition, it is necessary to evaluate the depth of the balcony slab relative to the floor level in the room. Based on this information, one or another material for insulation is selected, based on the fact that the floor level on the balcony should not be higher than the floor level in the room.

Insulation of the floor on the loggia: materials

To prevent cold air from penetrating through the balcony floor, various materials can be used:

• mineral wool;
• Styrofoam;
• expanded clay;
• penoplex.

Each material has its own advantages and disadvantages, let's take a closer look at them.

Mineral wool

Mineral wool - today it is one of the best thermal insulation materials, which has excellent performance characteristics. For its production it is used a natural stone– gabbro and diabase, the internal structure is formed by multidirectional fibers, which determines its excellent heat-insulating properties.

Insulation of the floor on the balcony with mineral wool

The material is characterized by a number of remarkable properties:

• non-flammability,
• a layer of additional coating - foil or fiberglass;
• durability;
• ease of installation of stone wool slabs.

The main disadvantage of the material is poor moisture resistance.

Styrofoam

An accessible material that is formed by many small balls of a cellular structure filled with air.

Key advantages of the material:

• reasonable price,
• ease,
• good level of thermal insulation.

The negative properties of the material are its low resistance to mechanical stress, as well as low level hygroscopicity.

Penoplex

Thermal insulation material of a new generation. An analogue of foam plastic with the best strength indicators: the structure is formed by small particles of equal size.

Insulating the floor on the loggia using penoplex

Important advantages of penoplex:

• durability,
• mechanical strength,
• frost resistance,
• high level thermal insulation,
• chemical inertness,
• light weight,
• ease of installation.

The disadvantages of the material are:

• flammability (class G-1),
• relatively high price,
• destroyed by exposure to sunlight.

To choose a high-quality penoplex, it is enough to check the uniformity of its structure on a cut.

Expanded clay

The material is made from clay by firing at high temperatures and is a loose heat insulator made of oval-shaped stones that have a porous structure. Expanded clay is quite fragile and requires careful handling. However, its use becomes effective when using a layer of 15 cm or more, which leads to a significant rise in the floor.

Among the advantages of the material are:

• easy installation,
• light weight,
• affordable price,
• significant chemical resistance,
• fire resistance.

Flaws:

• occurs during work a large number of dirt and dust,
• the material is fragile,
• absorbs moisture
• only a high layer provides the necessary thermal insulation.

Electric heated floor on the balcony

You can also make a warm floor using the system electric heating. In this case, the following can act as heat generators:

• electrical cable,
• thermomats,
• infrared heating film.

An electric cable can have significant power, but requires preliminary leveling of the floor and laying a layer of thermal insulation, as well as labor-intensive installation work. After securing the cable, the screed must be poured and reinforced, which may increase the load on the balcony slab. Therefore, this method of insulation may be unsafe in some cases.

Heating mats are less powerful, but do not require much effort during installation. They can be laid directly under tiles, porcelain tiles or natural stone and fixed tile adhesive. Thus, it is possible to insulate the floor without practically changing its level. Main disadvantage This option is that heating mats are released for heating certain area and the available width options may not exactly match the dimensions of the loggia.
Infrared flooring is perfect for laying under laminate, parquet or linoleum, as it has a smooth surface and provides uniform heating. It is best to mount it on already laid thermal insulation - a structure made of foam and joists, covered with plywood and a heat reflector. Therefore, we can say that the infrared floor rather acts as a heater.
To calculate the required quantity heating elements, keep in mind that the installation of the electrical system or infrared heated floor is carried out only on the balcony area free from heavy furniture.

Purchase of materials and tools

To install a thermal insulating structure on a balcony you will need the following tools:

• roulette,
• level,
• hacksaw or jigsaw,
• pencil or marker,
• screwdriver or screwdriver,
• drill,
• hammer drill.

In most cases, a convenient solution for insulating the floor is to install heat-insulating materials in the sheathing. To create it, you need to purchase bars in advance with a cross-section of 50x50 cm or larger if you need to raise the floor to a higher level. When calculating the number of bars, you need to rely on overall parameters balcony and dimensions thermal insulation material, on which the method of laying the sheathing depends. To treat the bars you will need an antiseptic liquid.

Floor lathing

Required amount insulation depends on the area and specifics of the material, as well as the difference in floor levels. Therefore, you first need to decide exactly how the insulation will be performed.

Don't forget to purchase penofol or thick film for the waterproofing layer, keeping in mind that some materials require double-sided protection from moisture. You also need to purchase plywood or boards for the subfloor.

Self-tapping screws (6×65) or dowels, small nails are used as fastening elements - it is better to buy them with a reserve. You will also need a can of polyurethane foam to fill the cracks and joints between the material.

If you decide to use to create a warm floor on the balcony electrical system, then you will find it useful following materials and equipment:

• electric underfloor heating system (cable and fastenings or cable mats or infrared film);
• connection cable;
• RCD – residual current device;
• temperature reducer.

You may also need a concrete screed and the materials listed above.

Laying technology

1. At the first stage, it is necessary to prepare the floor for laying the material. First you need to clean the base from dirt and dust using a broom and vacuum cleaner.
2. The very first layer is waterproofing or penofol, which prevents the penetration of moisture. In this case, the edges of the film are folded upward so that their level is higher than the level of the lag. Then you need to apply markings to ensure the lags are evenly positioned.
3. Next, logs are installed - bars with a cross section of 50x50 mm, which must be pre-treated with an antiseptic to prevent rotting. The bars are placed at a short distance from the walls (at least 5 cm), taking into account possible deformation of the wood. The distance is chosen depending on the dimensions of the material slabs.
4. Then the selected material is laid between the lags, the remaining cracks are filled with polyurethane foam. Mineral wool and expanded clay are also covered with a film on top to provide a vapor barrier. Laying the material in the lathing allows you to save it thermal insulation properties for a long time and minimizes the risk of deformation that may occur due to mechanical force.
5. The structure is covered with plywood or the floor is made of boards. Next, the finishing coating is laid - laminate, linoleum, etc.

Insulation of the floor on the loggia - installation technology

Following our advice, you can perform high-quality insulation of the floor on the balcony with your own hands. The main thing is, before starting work, draw up rough plan insulation and take into account the specifics of the selected material. In addition, do not forget about insulating walls, windows and ceilings. Then your balcony will become a full-fledged part of the apartment, where it will be pleasant to be in any weather.

Balcony without minimal finishing It's hard to find now. Metal-plastic windows and modern Decoration Materials allow you to turn it into a real extra room or place to relax. In the summer everything works great. But autumn, winter, spring are periods of the year when it is uncomfortable on the balcony. The air temperature drops, and the floor becomes especially cold. Many people wonder how to ensure maximum convenience and make the conditions on the balcony “all-weather.”

It should be noted right away that without finishing the walls of a balcony or loggia, as well as their thermal insulation, there will be no benefit from floor insulation work. If the balcony is already made in Euro-style, there are several ways to turn it into a real room with a comfortable year-round temperature.

Most easy method– use passive insulation. A layer of thermal insulation is laid between the surface ceiling slab and gender. Today there are a number of modern materials that are specifically designed for such purposes.

The most "advanced" and modern material. Structurally, it is made of foamed polyethylene, protected by an aluminum film. The insulation layer is flexible, which allows for convenient installation and installation.

The market offers options with one-sided and two-sided protection from metal foil. If you want to not only protect the floor, but also provide waterproofing, including insulation from condensation, it is better to use double-sided penofol. The material is produced in rolls, and to connect strips and pieces, the joints are glued with a special aluminum film.

Most best level Heat preservation is achieved by using penofol together with other insulation, for example, penoplex.

The cheapest and most common option. There are slabs of various thicknesses, which is very convenient when insulating floors with a raised level. The polystyrene foam is cut into pieces of the required size and placed between the slab and the covering of the balcony surface. All cracks and spaces are filled with polyurethane foam. The disadvantage of polystyrene foam is that it is hard, quite brittle, and when working with it a lot of small debris is formed.

Foamed polystyrene foam, also known as polystyrene foam

This material was created as a standard insulation material. Its characteristics are selected with maximum compliance with the requirements of thermal insulation, as well as fire, environmental and biological safety. Penoplex is lightweight, quite flexible, it does not rot, does not burn, is chemically inert, and does not serve as a “home” for fungus or mold.

The material is produced in sheets whose thickness ranges from 20 to 50 millimeters. Penoplex comes first in cost, but it is the optimal thermal insulator that is convenient to work with.

Old and proven material. Made from fiberglass or basalt threads. Mineral wool does not absorb moisture, does not burn, is inert to chemical attack, and mold does not grow in it. Unlike other insulation materials, it can be pushed into any gap.

Disadvantage: when working, you should use protective gloves and a suit, since mineral wool fibers are very fragile and sharp. Once they penetrate human skin, it is almost impossible to pull them out - they break off. Therefore, mineral wool pricks and causes severe itching.

Preparation for work

The first thing to do is tidy up the floor surface. Balcony slab often contains cracks and damage along the edges, in addition, it often does not have Smooth surface. The best way out is to make a screed. Before deciding to carry out such work, be sure to consult with the organization responsible for the operation of the house. Perhaps, for safety reasons, it is not worth making the stove heavier.

Preparation of the solution

If the house is new enough and the balcony is not in danger of being demolished, you can begin laying the screed. The main thing here is to remember that you should not make a thick and heavy coating. The coating mass should be as thin as possible and at the same time as strong as possible so as not to crack at a minimum thickness.

Excellent results are achieved by using expanded clay and perlite. Perlite requires a complex mixing technique, which is best done with a concrete mixer. Therefore, expanded clay is more often used at home.

The composition of the solution for work is as follows:

• 3 parts construction sand. Typed "in nature" or quarry sand not suitable, you need sifted and cleaned for construction work;
• 1 part cement mixed with expanded clay. The usual proportion is equal. However, to reduce the mass, you can make a composition with only 25% cement;
• 0.1 parts lime.

The entire dry mixture is thoroughly mixed until it acquires a uniform color. Then water is gradually added and kneading is done until the composition acquires the consistency of thick sour cream.

Performing a screed

The next stage is laying the screed. In the case of a balcony, you can do without the use of beacons, since the screed layer will be thin, about 4-5 cm.

1. The entire balcony is waterproofed around the perimeter. This can be done using polyurethane foam or special self-adhesive tape. Due to the small volume of work, bitumen is rarely used.
2. Starting from the corners farthest from the door, a layer of screed is laid out.
3. As you work, the layer is “stretched” and aligned using a rule. The floor level is periodically monitored with a long spirit level.

The screed must be thoroughly dried. The surface is suitable for walking after 2-3 days, however, it is better to wait at least 10-12, wetting the floor twice a day and covering it with film. This will give the screed maximum strength.

Floor construction

The insulated covering should be constructed at a level close to the floor of the adjacent room. More often it is made equal or slightly lower. If there is a need for something common in the apartment, it is better to provide a small recess-pocket near the door to prevent moisture from entering the room.

To work you will need tools and materials

1. Roulette.
2. Jigsaw or wood saw.
3. A wooden beam of the required section (approximately half the lifting height) or logs of appropriate thickness.
4. Insulation.
5. Material for the floor surface: board, sheets of thick plywood, chipboard (with a thickness of 16-18 mm, you can lay it directly on the logs).
6. A container of construction foam.

10 mm sheets are laid on a pre-created “grid” of boards or low-quality covering. Typically, thin chipboard or plywood serve only as a means of leveling the surface.

The work is carried out in several stages.

The timber is cut to the required size for laying across the balcony. The gap to the walls should be about 5 cm.

The cut parts are placed at a distance of half a meter. They need to be attached to the surface of the balcony slab. The most convenient way to do this is with the help of “new settlers” - self-tapping screws with plastic stopper which is inserted into the concrete. To avoid splitting, the distance from the edge of the beam to the first screw is left 7-10 cm. at this stage you can hardly monitor the final floor level - this task will be performed by subsequent work.

When polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam is used, the material is cut into the required pieces to fill the gaps between the beams. Another recommendation: the level of insulation should be level or slightly below the surface of the beam. Gaps should be minimal. Wherever necessary, the gaps are foamed. When using mineral wool, the insulation is tightly placed in the free space.

Penofol is easier to install. A long strip is cut to a size 40 cm larger than the length of the balcony. It is simply laid on top, so that there is approximately 200 mm of “extra” insulation around the perimeter. If it is necessary to connect the pieces, the laying is done with an overlap and sizing with aluminum tape.

Level leveling

The level for laying the surface is finally leveled and a air gap for thermal protection. To do this, beams are cut for longitudinal laying. In size - the length of the balcony minus 5 cm. The blanks are stacked, while the final level is carefully controlled. Linings are used on a base of cross beams.

Boards or other material are sewn on - chipboard, plywood, etc.

As a result, a flat surface is formed on the balcony, which has complex properties. It combines insulation, an air layer to dampen heat transfer and prevent moisture condensation. On such a covering you can lay ceramic tiles, linoleum or laminate.

To simplify the work, you can lay the timber in one layer, forming a grid and filling the gaps with insulation. This is not so convenient, since you will have to carefully control the level of each piece of timber, of which there will be many and of a smaller size. The overall thermal insulation of the coating will be worse. However, this approach allows you to save the height of the balcony floor.

Technological methods for creating an “all-weather” balcony

A heating system is created on the balcony. It should immediately be noted that branches from the central heating system of the house are unacceptable. An autonomous structure is being built. The norm for ensuring a standard temperature of 18°C ​​is a heat transfer power of 150 W/sq.m.

"Film" heating

Modern technologies have made it possible to create a means for fairly economical electric heating. Structurally, it is a film made of a carbon-based resistive element. When voltage is applied, the material heats up, and the temperature can be easily controlled by adjusting the input parameter. When constructing heating on the balcony, passive insulation is done according to the method described above. The next step is to cover the floor with a special heat insulator for film heating.

Film blocks are placed on top and electrical connections are made. The parts are secured with double-sided tape. Linoleum, carpet or laminate is laid on top, which are designed to work in conjunction with a “warm floor”. The work is simple and the heating is quite efficient and easily controlled using a simple input rheostat.

Electric cable heaters

The technology used is the same as that of film elements, just a different design. The cable is flexible, it is easy to lay it in one piece, without resorting to connecting different pieces. In addition, you can “wall up” it in concrete or adhesive on which ceramic tiles are laid.

If you don't mind electricity, you can go the minimal route. A primary leveling screed is made on the balcony, as described above. The false floor covering is not constructed. The heating thermal insulator is immediately laid, the welded reinforcing mesh is laid and the heating cable is installed. A laying layer is formed on top. It can be thin three or five centimeters concrete screed or immediately a layer of adhesive. The tiles are laid at the same time.

The work gets done easier. However, this approach will require more energy consumption for heating. If the floor is covered with ceramics, it must be compatible with the “warm floor”.

Video - Warm floor on the balcony

Mini water heating systems

Today, ready-made electrical solutions in the “warm baseboard” format, also known as the “contour system,” are spreading quite quickly. Structurally it is:

• a small electric water boiler, the size of a kettle;
• small-sized bleed pump;
• temperature control and control unit.

The coolant circulates through a thin tube. This structure is laid in the same way as a classic heated floor or electric cable, as described above.

The volume of coolant in the structure is minimal, about 3-5 liters. The system takes little power, the water circulates very quickly, so the floor surface will be evenly warm. Unlike cable or film, this solution has thermal inertia, that is, the system does not cool down immediately. However, the use is fraught with danger - if the temperature drops to sub-zero, the water will freeze and damage the tubes. Frost-resistant mixtures should be used as a coolant where the climate poses a risk of the balcony cooling below zero.

What to choose for insulation?

Creating a warm floor on the balcony is quite simple task, which even beginners can handle. You just need to know which side to approach the problem from. With the help of a number of simple tasks that you can do yourself, the balcony will become a warm and comfortable place to relax. And application autonomous system heating will easily turn it into another room in the apartment. In addition, all work does not require large investments Money. So, if you want a warm floor on your balcony, just make it.

September 4, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and finishing). Hobby: mobile connection, high technology, computer equipment, programming.

Today I will tell you how to insulate the floor on a balcony with your own hands. My neighbor, whose cat loves to sit on the balcony, came to me with a similar request. And since the floor in this room was not insulated, the animal experienced discomfort.

Well, taking care of our little brothers comes first, and he promised to generously pay for my services. And along the way, I decided to take this opportunity and tell everyone how to properly insulate the floor of a loggia or balcony. After all, this room can be converted not only into a boudoir for a cat, but also into a completely functional office or bedroom for other inhabitants of the apartment.

The need for floor insulation

Almost all residents of city apartments resort to thermal insulation of balconies and loggias. Moreover, regardless of whether this room will be used as living room(office, bedroom, etc.) or as a warehouse (workshop).

And, in my opinion, floor insulation has a huge impact on the effectiveness of thermal insulation. After all, no matter how thick the insulation on the walls is, if there is no insulation on the floor, your feet will definitely freeze. But they need to be kept warm (unlike your head).

The insulation procedure itself is not complicated and can be easily implemented independently. The main thing is to decide what is the best way to perform thermal insulation, because the insulation will be used in several specific conditions high humidity and strong temperature fluctuations.

I will also immediately warn you that any technology involves raising the floor surface above the floor slab, which is important if you are going to combine this room with a room. Although in most cases this will not cause inconvenience, since the floor level on balconies and loggias is initially lower than in the apartment.

Therefore, I ask you to take it as an axiom that it is necessary to insulate the floor on the balcony - with your own hands or with the help of a specially hired team of builders. And regardless of whether your cat’s paws are cold.

Material selection

Before starting work, it is very important to decide what material to use.. Let me briefly list a few alternative options:

1. Polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene). The cheapest and simplest method of thermal insulation. The price of polystyrene foam is low, and the installation technology is simple. To insulate the floor on the balcony with polystyrene foam, you can construct support logs or install it under a cement screed (in the latter case, you should buy dense material).

1. Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex). Thermal insulating material, which in addition to its low thermal conductivity coefficient is characterized by high strength. It can be installed either under tiles or screeds, or using joists. Moreover, I prefer the first option more.

1. Mineral wool. Insulate yourself, which I personally really like to use at work. Moreover, with its help I insulate not only the floors of balconies, but also walls, interfloor ceilings and others structural elements city ​​apartments and private houses.

This insulation attracts me high technical characteristics and environmental friendliness. Therefore, in this case, for insulation I chose basalt wool 50 mm thick (I will lay two layers) 60 cm wide and 120 cm long. Manufacturer: TechnoNIKOL.

Pros and cons of mineral wool

I did not make my choice of material based on empty space. To convince you of this, I will give just a few of the most important advantages of mineral wool over other types of insulation:

1. High heat-shielding properties. Basalt fiber wool has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, so only a small layer of insulation can effectively retain heat inside the balcony and keep the cold out.
2. Good soundproofing characteristics. Due to the fact that the mineral wool fibers are arranged in a chaotic order, and the air inside the insulation is not locked into sealed cells, the material perfectly absorbs sound waves. Therefore, if you want to arrange a quiet office or bedroom, you should definitely prefer mineral wool to polystyrene foam.
3. Light weight. The insulation layer weighs little, as do the additional materials required for installation. Therefore, the heat-insulating layer will not exert a significant load on the structural elements of the balcony (in particular, reinforced concrete slab ceilings).
4. Fire safety. Basalt has a melting point of more than 1.5 thousand degrees Celsius, so the insulation itself loses its properties and begins to melt during a fire in a flame with a temperature of more than 1116 degrees. This means that the material is not only non-flammable, but also contributes to fire extinction, which is very important for high-rise buildings.
5. Ease of installation. If you buy insulation in the form of separate mineral mats, laying them in the sheathing will not be difficult even for the most inexperienced craftsman. Unlike, for example, foam plastic, which is usually rolled under the screed (and it still needs to be leveled).

I see only two drawbacks here. The first is high hygroscopicity. Cotton wool absorbs water and water vapor, after which it performs the insulation tasks assigned to it much worse. This disadvantage can be mitigated by purchasing materials impregnated with hydrophobes, as well as installing waterproofing films under the floor covering.

The second drawback is the fairly high price. But she's completely justified big amount benefits received.

Floor insulation using mineral wool

I hope you have decided on the choice of material. Now I will tell you how I use purchased mineral wool to insulate floors on balconies and loggias.

Preparatory activities

All work begins with preparation. Final goal This stage is to prepare the base so that the finishing floor covering with the insulating layer underneath is laid strictly horizontally.

To do this you need to hit the zero mark. This is done in two ways:

1. By using laser level. I attach the device to the floor and level it so that the air bubble is strictly in the specified position (in the center of the glass). After that, I turn on the device and stick adhesive paper masking tape along the line that appears on the walls. This will serve as a guide for leveling the floor joists.

1. Using a water level. I put a mark on the wall using a marker. Then I apply one end of the hydraulic level tube to it. And I lean the second one against the opposite wall and make sure that the air bubble aligns with the mark. Then I place a risk on the opposite wall.

After this, I repeat the operation so that there is a distance of about a meter between the risks, after which I draw a solid line.

Then I use a tape measure to measure the distance from the “zero” mark to the floor and determine the highest and lowest points. This is necessary in order to then place wooden wedges under the logs, leveling them.

Having finished with the markings, I repair concrete surface floor. I clean large cracks with a hammer drill, getting rid of crumbling mortar, and then seal them with cement mortar. I file small cracks with a grinder and then fill them with foam. In both cases, you need to wait until the repair composition has completely dried.

Now comes the turn of waterproofing. To protect the insulation from moisture, I use roofing felt, which I roll out on a leveled and repaired subfloor. As a rule, one canvas is not enough. Therefore, I place the sheets overlapping each other at a distance of 10 to 15 cm.

I do not use polyethylene film or other similar material, because when spreading and then moving over it, it often breaks due to small irregularities and pebbles present in the reinforced concrete slab.

Installation of support logs

After waterproofing, you can proceed to the installation of support joists. For them I use dry pine timber with a section of 60 by 40 mm. The height of the logs is determined by the insulation used.

Before installing the support beams, they must be treated with an antiseptic primer, which will prevent the appearance of wooden parts mold, fungus and rot. This is very important, given that too much moisture often forms on the balcony, which can penetrate into the insulating layer.

The logs are attached directly to the laid roofing material in increments of 60 cm. In this case, the mineral wool will fit into the sheathing without gaps, which may cause the formation of cold bridges.

The logs are attached to subfloor using dowels and screws. To do this you need to drill holes in the beams required diameter(in my case 10 mm) so that the dowel is immersed in the reinforced concrete slab to a depth of at least 2 cm.

Then the hole should be countersunk (deepened using a thicker drill so that after installation the screw head is completely recessed into the surface), and then a plastic dowel should be inserted and the core should be tightened.

The result is a structure whose top point is 20 mm lower than the level of the floor covering in the finishing room. Sometimes you need to raise some sections of the sheathing. To do this, I use wooden wedges, which I then also secure with dowels screwed through the beam.

The outermost logs should be located 10-15 cm from the walls of the balcony. Their length should be such that the cut is 5 cm from the balcony wall. These gaps are needed to compensate for a possible increase in the size of the logs due to wetness.

If the parts are installed end-to-end when swelling, the floor covering may warp, which will require repair or replacement of the entire insulating layer.

Not only longitudinal but also transverse parts are installed. The installation step of short bars is about 50 cm from each other. At the joints, I recommend sawing down the bars half the width, and then fastening them to each other using galvanized self-tapping screws.

Installation of thermal insulation and flooring

Having finished installing the logs, I move on to laying mineral mats. I always act according to the following scheme:

1. I cut the insulation boards into pieces of the required length and width. If you laid the joists taking into account geometric parameters thermal insulation, then you will have to do minimal amount pruning Are cut basalt mats using a bench knife.

1. I lay the insulation boards in the sheathing. To do this, I bend them in the middle and insert them into the gap between the beams. After straightening, the thermal insulation is tightly fixed, forming a minimum number of gaps through which thermal energy can leak.

1. I seal the seams. Particular attention should be paid to the areas where insulation boards join the walls. More foam needs to be placed there so that it glues the materials together, which together form a sealed heat-insulating layer.
   Remember that under no circumstances should you compact the insulation. This reduces the distance between the fibers and reduces the amount of air inside. As a result, the thermal conductivity coefficient of the insulation decreases, and it performs its assigned tasks worse.
2. I put it on top of the frame with insulation waterproofing material. I use a vapor-permeable waterproof membrane with metallized outer layer. The latter will act as a heat shield, reflecting the energy generated by heating devices into the room. The membrane is secured with metal brackets. The pitch between them is from 15 to 20 cm.

1. On waterproofing film I lay sheets of moisture-resistant plywood 10 mm thick and secure them to the joists using black self-tapping screws. I place the plywood sheets so that there are 2-3 mm gaps between them to compensate for possible expansion of the material. You also need to leave a gap between the plywood covering and the walls of the balcony.

1. I laid the underlayment under the laminate and the flooring itself on the plywood. It should also be placed with gaps near the walls. Then this gap is masked using a plinth.

At this point, the insulation of the floor on the balcony can be considered complete.

Summary

Now you know how you can insulate balcony floors with your own hands using mineral wool. If you are interested in how to insulate the floor on a balcony with penoplex, watch the video in this article.

And I would like to ask you if you have done insulation French balcony(with full glazing)? And if so, what materials and technologies were used. I will be glad to see your answers in the comments to this material.

September 4, 2016

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