How to install heating radiators from the floor. How to properly install heating batteries in an apartment? When to replace heating radiators

How to install heating radiators from the floor. How to properly install heating batteries in an apartment? When to replace heating radiators

Home / Radiators / How to install a bimetallic heating radiator with your own hands

Every house or apartment needs heating. Sometimes the main heating element becomes outdated or deteriorates, and you have to replace it with a new one. The choice of heating equipment must be approached responsibly. Basically, modern radiators are made of materials such as aluminum and steel. Bimetallic radiators contain both metals. How to install a bimetallic radiator with your own hands? It’s not difficult, the main thing is to carefully follow all the instructions.

Advantages of bimetallic radiators

Bimetallic radiators are in great demand. They successfully replace old cast iron batteries, have an attractive design and are economical. True, they are more expensive than aluminum batteries.

Bimetallic heating radiator

The peculiarity of this type of battery is the presence of two different metals in its composition. The core is made of steel (copper), and the body is made of aluminum.

The advantages of bimetallic radiators include:

  • durability (can last more than 20 years);
  • ability to withstand high pressure of hot water (up to 30 atmospheres);
  • strength, resistance to various mechanical influences (impacts, scratches);
  • small interaxial distance, which manifests itself in more efficient heating of the room:
  • corrosion resistance;
  • high heat transfer;
  • stylish appearance.

Due to their advantages, bimetallic batteries are used both in private homes and in apartment buildings with central heating.

Vacation home

Some bimetallic radiators differ in price. In cheap models, when both metals are heated at the same time, noise occurs due to the fact that they expand differently. Expensive models are equipped with a special polymer coating that muffles this sound.

When purchasing a radiator, you will have to take into account the diameter of the supply pipes that will be connected to it.

Calculation of the number of required sections

In order for the radiator to fully warm the room in which it is installed and not to consume excessive amounts of thermal energy, it is necessary to calculate the optimal number of sections. To do this, you need to know the power of the device (it is indicated in its technical data sheet) and the area of ​​the room (calculated by multiplying the length by its width).


Calculation of house area

The power of each battery section is measured in watts. In accordance with building codes, per 1 sq.m. you need 100 W of heating device power. This figure (100W) is divided by the power of one battery section. The resulting value is multiplied by the area of ​​the room.

This is what the formula looks like:

  • S*100/P
  • S is the area of ​​the room;
  • P – power of one section.

For example, the parameters of a room are 5x4 meters. Its area is 20 sq.m. Let one battery section have a power of 250 W. It turns out: 20*100/250=8

This means that to heat this room you will need a battery with 8 sections. If the number is not a whole number (for example, 8.5), then it is necessary to round it to a larger value (to 9).


8 section battery

But in an apartment with uninsulated walls or ventilated window openings, the number of sections may not be enough for high-quality heating.

If more than 10 sections are needed to heat a room, it is recommended not to combine them into one radiator, but to install two separate batteries. This will make heating the room more efficient.


Two batteries of 5 sections

Basic rules for installing batteries

Before you learn how to properly install a bimetallic heating radiator, you need to learn about the important conditions that are taken into account during its installation. Regardless of the type of battery, in order to ensure normal heat exchange and air circulation in the room, you should adhere to the following rules:

  1. The radiator should be placed centrally under the window opening. Its top grille should be located at a distance of 5-10 cm from the window sill.
  2. A distance of 8-10 cm must be maintained between the bottom of the heating element and the floor.
  3. The distance between the radiator and the wall should be 2-5 cm.

Distance between wall and radiator

All this will have to be taken into account not only when installing the battery, but also when purchasing it, since they come in different heights.

If reflective insulation is installed on the wall behind the radiator, the battery mounts that come with it will likely be short. You will need to purchase longer clamps.

The battery is installed clearly in a horizontal position. It is recommended to install batteries in the same place in each room of the house (apartment).


Battery installation

Installing a bimetallic radiator yourself

How to install a bimetallic radiator? Each battery comes with instructions from the manufacturer. Its installation must be carried out in accordance with these instructions.

The most reliable option is to entrust the installation of the battery to a qualified specialist, checking that he has a license for this type of work. If you wish, you can install the radiator yourself. To do this, you must follow the step-by-step instructions.


Battery installation by a technician

Before installation, the radiator is flushed. Do not use alkaline products or abrasive materials. They can damage the pipe surface and cause fluid to leak.

Preparatory stage

The battery installation should be carried out in the summer. Before starting work, you should make sure that there is no liquid in the pipes, or shut off its flow at the inlet and outlet of the heating system.


Battery installation in summer

First you need to dismantle the old radiator and prepare a place for installing a new one.

Be sure to check the completeness of the battery. Usually it is purchased in an already assembled state, but if this is not the case, then you need to assemble it yourself. Assembly takes place in accordance with the developer's instructions using a special radiator key.

Attention! Bimetallic radiators use both left-handed and right-handed threads.


Left-handed and right-handed thread

To prevent contamination of the valve intended for air outlet, a filter is placed on the supply pipe.

Radiator installation

The battery installation proceeds according to the following plan:

  1. Marking on the wall where to attach the brackets. They should be located between the battery sections.
  2. Fastening the brackets. The mounting method depends on the material of the wall surface on which the battery is installed. On a wall made of brick or reinforced concrete, the brackets are fastened with dowels or fixed with cement mortar, and on a plasterboard surface - with double-sided fastening.
  3. Installing the radiator on fixed brackets. The correctness of its position is checked using a building level.
  4. Connecting the battery to the pipes.
  5. Installation of a tap or thermostatic valve.
  6. Installation of an air valve (an automatic one is recommended, for example, a Mayevsky valve) in the upper part of the heating device.

Very important! An air valve must be installed, since gas formation occurs inside the battery.


Air valve for battery

Upon completion of installation, turn on the system. All taps open smoothly. Opening the valves too quickly can lead to hydrodynamic shock.

After opening the taps, you need to bleed the air through the Mayevsky tap. If you have to bleed air too often, this may indicate a malfunction - a leak in the battery or heating boiler.

If you cover the heating radiator with any decorative element - a screen, screen, curtain or box, this will lead to a decrease in heat transfer. And if sensors are installed on the battery that automatically regulate the heating strength, then they will respond to changes in temperature not in the room itself, but under the screen.


Temperature sensors for batteries

When operating the heating system, you must follow the following rules:

  1. Cleaning the battery twice a year - before and after the end of the heating season.
  2. You can completely drain the heating system for a maximum of 14 days.
  3. It is forbidden to suddenly open the shut-off valves.
  4. Do not paint the hole from which air is escaping.

Cleaning the Battery

Knowing how to install a bimetallic heating radiator with your own hands, you can save on paying for the services of a specialist. The main thing is to adhere to the rules for installing batteries and the developer’s instructions. If the battery is installed correctly and all necessary conditions are met during its operation, it will last a long time.

Photo gallery (13 photos)

gopb.ru

DIY installation of bimetallic heating radiators

Bimetallic radiators are rapidly gaining popularity among buyers. In terms of consumer characteristics, they are in many ways superior to cast iron ones, and are approximately on the same level as aluminum batteries. At the same time, aluminum radiators are not resistant to pressure drops in apartment buildings, and therefore bimetallic devices are the best choice for apartments. This article is devoted to installing bimetallic heating radiators with your own hands.


Bimetallic radiators are superior in performance to cast iron ones, and are approximately on the same level as aluminum batteries

Bimetallic batteries have a number of important advantages:

  • long service life - approximately two decades;
  • high level of heat transfer;
  • resistance to hydrodynamic and mechanical influences;
  • attractive appearance;
  • anti-corrosion resistance;
  • quick response if it is necessary to change the temperature, achieved through the use of channels with a small diameter.

The main disadvantage of bimetal is the high cost of devices.

Installing a radiator with your own hands is quite possible, but it will require an understanding of their design features, and preferably some practical skills.

A bimetal heater includes two main elements: an aluminum body and a steel (or copper) core.

There are two types of radiators:

  • completely bimetallic devices, where the core is pipes for transferring coolant that does not come into contact with the body material;
  • partially bimetallic devices, where the internal channels are equipped with plates of a different metal.

Fully bimetallic batteries are more durable in relation to both mechanical and hydrodynamic influences, and, accordingly, more durable.

Calculation of the number of sections

To calculate the required number of sections, it is necessary to take into account a number of factors. First of all, you need to know the battery power and the area of ​​the room. There are also more complex calculation methods that take into account additional parameters (for example, non-standard ceiling heights, the number of windows and doors, the number of external walls, etc.).


Before installing the radiator, you need to calculate the number of sections

The simplest formula for calculating the number of sections looks like this:

number of sections = room area x 100/battery power.

The standard ceiling height is 2 meters 70 centimeters.

If there is a 12 meter room and radiators with 180 watt sections, then the formula will look like this:

12 x 100/180 = 6.66.

We round the resulting value up and as a result we find out that 7 sections are needed to heat the room.

Installation of a bimetallic battery

Do-it-yourself installation of the heating device is carried out according to the instructions set out in the equipment passport.

Note! Installation of all components of the heating system is carried out in plastic packaging of the equipment and is not removed until the installation is completed.

Building regulations

Installation of bimetallic devices must be carried out in accordance with the instructions of building codes and regulations (SNiP). Specific requirements are set forth in Section 3.05.01-85.


Requirements for installing bimetallic radiators

During installation work, you must adhere to the following parameters:

  • The distance from the wall is 30-50 millimeters. If the device is too close to the wall, the back surface of the battery will not distribute thermal energy efficiently.
  • Distances from the floor - 100 millimeters. If the radiator is installed lower, the efficiency of heat transfer will decrease, and the process of cleaning the floor under the radiator will be more difficult. Also, you should not place the radiator too high, since in this case the temperatures at the top and bottom of the room are too differentiated.
  • The distance from the window sill is 80-120 millimeters. If you make the gap too small, the heat flow from the heating device will decrease.

Installation procedure

Work on installing bimetallic batteries must be carried out in a certain sequence:

  • mark places for installing brackets on the wall;
  • We secure the brackets with dowels and cement mortar (if we are talking about a reinforced concrete or brick wall) or double-sided fastening (if it is a plasterboard partition);
  • We place the battery strictly horizontally on the already installed brackets;
  • connect the radiator to the pipes, install a faucet or thermostatic valve;
  • We put the air valve at the top of the radiator.

Note! An air valve (preferably an automatic one) is required to be installed, since a small formation of gases occurs inside the device.

  • Before starting work, you need to shut off the flow of coolant in the heating system at the inlet and outlet or make sure that there is no liquid in the pipeline.
  • Even before installation, you need to check that the radiator is complete. It must be assembled. If this is not the case, take a radiator key and assemble the battery according to the manufacturer's instructions.

  • The structure must be absolutely sealed, so abrasive materials cannot be used during assembly, as they destroy the material of the device.
  • When tightening fasteners, do not forget that bimetallic devices use both left-handed and right-handed threads.
  • When connecting sanitary fittings, it is extremely important to choose the right material. Typically, flax is used together with a heat-resistant sealant, FUM tape (fluoroplastic sealing material) or Tangit threads.
  • Before starting installation work, you need to carefully plan the connection diagram. Batteries can be connected diagonally, sideways or downwards. It is rational to install a bypass in a single-pipe system, that is, a pipe that will allow the system to function normally when the batteries are connected in series.
  • After installation is complete, the system is turned on. This must be done by smoothly opening all the valves that previously blocked the path of the coolant. Opening the taps too sharply leads to clogging of the internal pipe section or hydrodynamic shocks.
  • After opening the valves, it is necessary to bleed off excess air through an air vent (for example, a Mayevsky valve).

Note! Do not cover batteries with screens or place them in wall niches. This will sharply reduce the heat transfer of the equipment.

Correctly installed bimetallic heating radiators are the key to their long and trouble-free operation. If you have any doubts about your ability to install them yourself, it is better to contact a specialist.

klivent.biz

Do-it-yourself installation of bimetallic radiators

Updating the heating system in both a private home and your own apartment is impossible without replacing old cast-iron radiators with more practical and modern devices.

One of the successful solutions is to install bimetallic radiators with your own hands. Their neat appearance will fit into any interior, and their high heat transfer rates will bring a long-awaited atmosphere of comfort.

The design of such a heating system is quite simple: the design consists of the radiators themselves and adjacent steel pipes, the joint sections of which are processed by spot welding.

Installation of bimetallic heating radiators does not require much destruction and is carried out quite carefully.

Basic rules for installing bimetallic radiators in the house

Any inept intervention in the heating system can have a detrimental effect on its further operation and the quality of room heating.

Therefore, before performing the main stages of work, you need to familiarize yourself with a number of rules and adhere to them in the future.

What does a novice craftsman need to remember when he decides to install a bimetallic radiator with his own hands?

  • The optimal distance from the floor to the bottom of the radiator is at least 60-70 mm and no more than 100-120 mm to maintain a high level of heat transfer;
  • The upper part of the radiator should be located at a distance of 50-60 mm from the edge of the window sill, in order to improve convection and facilitate the installation of equipment;
  • It is recommended to place the radiator in the center of the window;
  • The equipment is installed in a strictly horizontal position;
  • Heating elements should be installed at the same level within each room.

An installed bimetallic radiator must not be treated with metal coatings, since an additional layer of paint can disrupt the operation of the thermostat and reduce heat transfer rates by an average of 10%.

In addition, do not use abrasive substances to clean the device.

How to install a bimetallic radiator

Replacing old batteries with new bimetallic devices can be done on your own if you have sufficient knowledge for this work.

Installation of the heating system is carried out in several stages.

First, the technician must dismantle the old heating radiators and carefully prepare the work area: mark a place for installing a new heating device and drilling holes for the brackets.

The supporting part is fixed to the wall using dowels or sealed with cement mortar.

At this point, the installation of the bimetallic radiator is not yet completed. The equipment is equipped with shut-off valves and a jumper, and then the heating system pipelines are installed.

Each radiator must be equipped with an air valve. This part is necessary to remove excess air from the system.

During the process of filling the system with coolant, the stabilizing valve must be closed 2/3 to prevent water hammer.

Upon completion of installation of the bimetallic radiator, the first strength test of the structure is carried out. Do not forget to thoroughly clean the radiator and remove any remaining debris and dirt from the body.

As you operate the system, you must also follow a number of rules and adhere to some recommendations:

  • The radiator is cleaned 1-2 times a year - at the beginning and during the heating season;
  • Complete draining of the coolant from the heating system is permissible only for a period of no more than 2 weeks;
  • Sudden opening of shut-off valves is prohibited;
  • It is not permissible to paint the air outlet hole;
  • It is advisable to equip some heating systems with special pumps or closed expansion tanks.

High-quality work on installing bimetallic radiators with your own hands and successfully carried out tests will be the key to long and reliable operation of the entire heating system.

A successful example of installing bimetallic radiators can be clearly seen in the video.

The efficiency of an autonomous heating system depends on the correct selection and connection of heating devices.

It is better to entrust the installation of radiators in an apartment building to a plumber, who will be responsible for the quality of work and possible leaks.

Installing batteries in a private home is possible without the participation of a specialist. Having studied and selected the connection diagram, you can independently install radiators in the heating of a private house.

Comfortable living depends on proper installation heating devices.

When installing it yourself, pay attention to the following points:

  • compliance with installation rules;
  • compliance with the sequence of connecting the elements: pipes, fittings, boiler, stainless steel boiler () and pump);
  • selection of equipment and components;
  • arrangement of devices.

Preliminary planning

There are rules for installing radiators in a private house.

These are not mandatory requirements, but can improve battery performance:

  • the radiator is mounted 10-15 cm from the floor;
  • distance to the window sill – at least 10 cm;
  • The battery is mounted at a distance of 2 cm from the walls.

IMPORTANT! Failure to comply with these rules may result in heat loss, fogging of windows, and damage to wall coverings.

When planning installation locations, take into account the presence and number of windows in the room. Installing a radiator under the window will create a thermal curtain against the cold that comes from the opening.

If there are several windows in the room, then batteries are installed under each.

Pay attention to the layout of the rooms - an additional heating device is installed in the corner rooms.

The degree of heating of the premises depends on many factors: location, number of windows, proximity to the front door, purpose of the room.

To maintain a comfortable microclimate in each room, we provide for adjusting the heating of the radiators.

Radiators are equipped with automatic or manual controls.

ATTENTION! You can increase the heat transfer of the battery by installing a heat reflector on the back or applying a special reflective coating to the wall.

Wiring options

Installation of batteries in a private house is carried out according to two schemes:

  • single-pipe;
  • two-pipe.

Single-pipe option used in a two or three storey building.

The coolant (about the use of antifreeze in the heating system is written in the article) is supplied through the central line to the top floor.

Passing through the batteries from top to bottom, water flows to the boiler.

This scheme has advantages:

  • minimum cost and materials costs;
  • relatively simple installation;
  • the circuit is compatible with heated floors and radiators of various types;
  • wiring and installation do not depend on the layout of the rooms;
  • one pipe improves the aesthetics of the room.

Despite the obvious advantages, the scheme has a number of disadvantages:

  • complex hydraulic and heat calculations (how to properly install a hydraulic accumulator for heating is written);
  • it is impossible to regulate the heat transfer of a separate device;
  • large heat losses;
  • the movement of the coolant requires an increase in pressure (how to push through an air lock in a heating system is written).

ATTENTION! Difficulties with water circulation using a single-pipe scheme can be solved by installing a circulation pump without a bypass (written on the page).

Two-pipe version involves parallel connection of radiators.

In this case, the design contains two branches: forward and reverse.

Hot water flows into the battery through a straight pipe, and cooled coolant leaves through the return pipe. Both branches are connected at the heating end point.

Compared to a single-pipe scheme, this has two advantages:

  1. The heat output of each device is regulated separately;
  2. In cases of accidents and scheduled maintenance, the heating continues to function. Both branches overlap directly at each battery.

Disadvantages include::

  • high cost,
  • installation duration.

The choice of pipe layout depends on the characteristics of the house and the preferences of the owner. It is worth remembering that adjusting the heat transfer compensates for the costs of installation and materials.

Connection methods

In addition to wiring diagrams, different options for connecting radiators to the pipeline are used.

  • One-way connection (side).

    With this connection, the forward and return branches are connected on one side of the battery.

    Uniform heating of each radiator element is achieved with a small volume of water.

    Used in high-rise buildings with a large number of batteries.

GOOD TO KNOW. The number of sections in the radiator should not exceed 12 pieces.

Long radiators, when connected to one side, warm up worse.

This reduces heat transfer efficiency.

Radiator installation

Installing a radiator in the heating system of a private home is a task for a professional plumber.

Installation can be done independently, knowing the connection methods, reading the instructions for the radiator and following the technology.

If the work is done correctly and the connections are tight, then there will be no problems with the radiator.

Installing the device yourself will minimize costs.

We follow the sequence of actions when installing radiators:

Aluminum, bimetallic and cast iron

Progress does not stand still. Manufacturers are promoting batteries made from the latest materials:

  • super light aluminum
  • bimetallic.

But despite this, classic cast iron radiators are not losing ground.

The material retains heat for a long time, which reduces fuel costs.

Technologies have made it possible to cast devices of modern shapes.

The installation of such batteries has specifics:

  • Before installation, the battery is disassembled, nipples are adjustable.

    To avoid distortion, the upper and lower nipples are unscrewed simultaneously;

  • assemble the sections in reverse order.

    We pressurize the assembled radiator. If a leak appears, then adjust the corresponding nipple;

  • wooden walls will not support the weight of a cast iron battery.

    Appliances with floor supports are installed in a wooden private house. We fix brackets into brick or panels and hang a cast iron radiator on them;

  • install the radiator with bypass () and Mayevsky tap.

    It is necessary to provide shut-off valves and a circulation pump (), which will shut off the heating device in the event of an accident or repair.

Pipeline installation carried out using threaded fittings, ensuring tightness using plumbing flax with sealant or oil paint.

Conclusion

We prepare the necessary materials and components. You can install a radiator in the heating of a private house yourself.

Before starting work, we decide on the wiring option and connection method. During the work process, we follow the instructions and installation technology.

We invite you to watch a video tutorial on assembling and installing an aluminum battery into a heating system.

High-quality heating is the key to a favorable climate in the house and the absence of cold weather even in the most severe frosts. Therefore, if you have an old and ineffective radiator in your apartment or cottage, then it is worth replacing it. At first glance, this seems to be a very complex job, accessible only to specialized specialists with significant experience. But with the right attitude and the availability of some tools, installing heating radiators with your own hands does not pose a serious problem.

Installing heating batteries with your own hands

Rules for battery location and connection diagrams

In addition to the characteristics of the radiator itself and the correctness of its connection, one of the most important factors affecting the efficiency of the heating system is the choice of the right location for the product. True, in most cases it is predetermined in advance - the new battery will most likely stand in place of the old cast-iron one, which has been there since the building was built. But still, here are some recommendations for proper placement of the radiator.

How to install a radiator yourself

Firstly, it is advisable to place the battery under a window. The fact is that it is a “bridge” through which the cold from the street enters the apartment or cottage. The presence of a radiator under the window forms a kind of “thermal curtain” that interferes with the process described above. In this case, the battery should be placed strictly in the middle of the window, and, preferably, occupy up to 70-80% of its width.

Secondly, there should be at least 80-120 mm from the floor to the radiator. If it is less, it will be inconvenient to clean under the battery; a huge amount of dust and debris will accumulate there. And if the radiator is located higher, a certain amount of cold air will collect under it, which requires heating and, as a result, worsens the operation of the heating system. In addition, too short a distance to the windowsill negatively affects the battery efficiency.

Thirdly, a distance of 2.5-3 cm is allowed between the back of the radiator and the wall. If it is smaller, the processes of convection and movement of warm air flows are disrupted, and, as a result, the battery works less efficiently and wastes some of the heat.

All of the above principles for placing a heating battery are presented in the diagram above

Table. Standard connection diagrams for heating batteries.

Installing heating radiators with your own hands - detailed step-by-step instructions!


Find out how to install heating batteries yourself! Requirements, choice of location, step-by-step installation instructions, tips, photos + video.

Installing heating radiators with your own hands is a decision that should be taken seriously: not every person can do it. At the very least, it is imperative to prepare for such a process. Usually, if you just look at the situation amateurishly, you can end up with negative emergency consequences.

Installation of heating radiators

If you live in an apartment in a multi-storey building, then it is best to call specialists for this, since there is a risk of flooding not only your apartment. In a private house, you can try to install and install homemade heating radiators with your own hands - however, to do this you need to understand the main points of installation.

Preliminary preparation

First, you need to decide what type of wiring was used to install the heating system. Those who arranged it should know this - one-pipe or two-pipe wiring.

And before you start installing heating radiators with your own hands, you also need to find out which heating circuit is single-pipe or double-pipe.

After all, the choice of parts and their quantity will depend on the wiring diagram of your heating system, photos of the diagrams below.

Single pipe heating system

Two-pipe heating system

What you need for installation

Depending on what design features the heating system has, the number and list of parts required for installation will depend. For example, if it is a single-pipe heating system, then a bypass will be required. In case of problems, it will be possible to turn off only the device that has this element, and there will be no need to shut down the entire system - this is especially true in winter situations, when it is not very convenient to turn off the heating in cold weather.

The number of parts for installation is also determined by the connection diagram and type of radiators. According to the diagram, couplings, adapters, angles and nipples are selected.

Also, installing a heating battery yourself will require shut-off valves. You need to select the type of radiator fittings; you should not get carried away with complex ball valves with the so-called “American” valves, which require professional knowledge. And it will be difficult to ensure tightness without much experience in this area. To connect heating radiators to the pipeline with your own hands, you will need bends that will correspond to the dimensions of the radiator and threaded pipes. A sleeve will also be screwed onto the leads - after twisting, it is inserted into the battery. It is worth noting that when you buy cast iron radiators, you need to check before installation whether the brackets match the material of the wall on which they will be mounted.

Installation of shut-off valves

To be able to bleed air from the battery, you need to install a Mayevsky tap on it. As a rule, it is included in the factory configuration, but if not, then buy it.

Calculating the location

Those who are planning to install a heating radiator with their own hands should take into account that the sections of pipes that lead to the devices must be placed with a slope (slight) - in the direction of movement of the coolant. If the gasket is strictly horizontal or there is a skew in the installation, then air will concentrate in the batteries made of cast iron and steel. You will have to regularly blow it out manually so that the heat transfer does not decrease.

It is better if the central axis of the battery coincides with the axis that goes through the center of the window.

Deviations can be no more than 2 cm, such that will not be determined visually. But such a recommendation does not apply to strict requirements.

Marking the central axis of the heating battery

Installing heating radiators with your own hands involves following several strict rules:

  • The components for supplying heating radiators must be placed so that the slope is 0.005; it is recommended to increase it to 0.01. So, 1 m of the pipeline will have to slope towards the circulation - and by at least 0.5 cm. The angle of inclination must be determined by the length of the pipe sections that are installed.
  • There should be 6-10 cm or more from the floor surface to the radiator.
  • From the lower outline of the window sill to the upper outline of the battery - 5-10 cm.
  • From the plane of the wall to the battery - 3-5 cm.
  • Be sure to follow horizontal and vertical directions.

Heating system pipe slope

To increase the performance of the radiator, you can install a specialized shield made of special heat-reflecting material before installation. Or you can simply take and cover the surface of the wall with a composition that has

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators, installation and connection, photo


Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators. Marking radiators with brackets. Tools and materials for installing heating radiators.

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: connection options, installation steps, tips and tricks

In the old days, installing heating radiators yourself was problematic due to welding work, which was an integral part of the installation. Modern materials make it possible to do without special devices, which makes it possible to install heating radiators in the house with your own hands.

To carry out similar activities in an apartment, it is recommended to involve plumbers from a service company, since you will need to completely disconnect the system from the main line and drain the water. Not everyone knows how to do this correctly, and a poor-quality connection can result in a flood of hot water.

Determining the location of radiators

If we are talking about replacing old structures with new ones, then the issue of location disappears by itself. When planning a circuit design, it is necessary to take into account important factors according to which the batteries must provide reliable thermal protection. No matter how high-quality modern double-glazed windows are, they are still sources of cold air flow. That is why batteries are installed in almost all rooms below the window. But it is worth considering that the radiator must cover at least 70% of the window opening. Only then will its functioning be effective.

Experts recommend adhering to the following rules during installation:

— the distance from the window sill to the top of the heating device should be within 9-14 cm;

— a gap of 7-12 cm is required from the bottom of the battery to the floor;

— a distance of 3-5 cm should be left between the radiator and the wall;

— the heating structure should be placed in the center of the window opening.

Based on the listed requirements, we can summarize that the installation location must precede the choice of model. Only if certain parameters are available, the power and configuration of the sections are selected.

Radiator connection options

The diagonal method involves connecting the supply pipe to the top of the heating device, and the return pipe from the bottom, but located on the other side;

The bottom connection is made at the bottom of the battery on opposite sides;

The lateral or one-sided method is more often used with a vertical wiring diagram with a connection to the right or left side of the radiator.

Stages of installing heating radiators with your own hands

1. Preparatory work includes dismantling old structures if necessary. The water must first be completely drained from the disconnected system. You will need to install special fasteners for batteries on the wall or check the strength and correct installation of existing hooks. You should also examine the wall surface for integrity. Often cracks and gaps form under the window sill over time. They must be sealed with cement mortar, and foil insulation must be fixed to the dry surface. Other wall finishing options include: plaster with a special insulating compound, plasterboard sheathing with an insulating layer, etc.

2. The radiator kit includes: installing an air vent, screwing plugs into unoccupied holes in the manifolds. In case of mismatch between the diameters of pipes and manifolds, the connection is made using adapters.

3. Next, shut-off and control valves are installed. For this purpose, ball valves are installed at all inlets and outlets. They will allow subsequent repair work to be carried out without completely shutting down the heating system. Thermostats are not required elements, but their use saves coolant consumption on warm days. Therefore, regarding additional devices, each owner makes his own decision.

4. When hanging radiators on mounts, it is recommended not to remove the protective film from new models. It will protect the surface of the batteries from contamination until finishing work is completed.

5. The supply and outlet pipes are connected in series using one of the existing methods: threaded, crimped, pressed, or welded.

6. The next step is crimping. Water into the system should be opened at low pressure; a sudden start can provoke a water hammer, as a result of which the shut-off valves will fail.

To increase heat transfer and save thermal resources, it is worth fixing a sheet of foil insulation to the wall on the back side of the radiator. Penny costs will allow you to save up to 10% on heating.

When installing a battery with a side connection, you can first hang the structures, then do the piping. In the case of a bottom connection, work begins with determining the center distance of the pipes. The installation of heating devices can be completed after the renovation is completed.

In order to rationally use energy resources and save on space heating, it is recommended to equip radiators with thermostats (a separate thermostat for each device). So in each room you can set different temperature conditions that are comfortable for living.

The required number of sections is calculated based on the area of ​​the room and the power of one section, which is indicated in the passport.

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: connection options, installation steps, tips and tricks


Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: connection options, installation steps, tips and recommendations In the old days, it was easy to install heating radiators yourself

DIY heating radiator installation

Properly selected and installed batteries can provide a cozy atmosphere in the house even in the coldest winter. Installing a heating radiator with your own hands will not cause any problems if you follow the instructions and advice from experts who will help you select and draw up the correct connection diagram, as well as calculate the placement.

Types of radiators

Structurally, all heating radiators are similar, but the significant difference lies in the material from which they are made. There are the following types of heating batteries:

Aluminum ones have good heat transfer and relative lightness, so it makes sense to install them in houses with wooden walls. Their disadvantage is considered to be susceptibility to changes in water pressure in the system and its chemical composition.

Bimetallic batteries

Cast iron ones do not have these disadvantages, but their heavy weight imposes some restrictions. In addition, they have a long service life (about 50 years).

The remaining two types are considered a compromise between cast iron and aluminum radiators. They have a relatively low weight and good performance characteristics.

For private houses, if they have their own well, it is possible to install heating radiators of any type, but bimetallic ones will be most convenient for installation.

Selecting a location and preparing for installation

To install heating radiators, craftsmen from housing departments or specialized companies are usually hired, but this operation can be done with your own hands. When carrying out installation work, it is necessary to take into account the location of the radiator relative to the window and floor, its heat transfer depends on this.

Installation of heating radiators should take place exactly in the middle of the window, the deviation from the center should not exceed 2 cm. Its width should be proportional to the width of the window sill and be 50-75% of its dimensions.

It is equally important to maintain the distance between the floor and the heating device. It should not be more than 12 cm. At the same time, the gap between the top point of the battery and the bottom edge of the window sill should not be less than 5 cm. And between the wall and the radiator - in the range of 2-5 cm.

Removing the replacement radiator

If the radiator is installed in your own home, then it should be taken into account that it must be preceded by preparatory work:

  • shutting off water;
  • draining water from dismantled parts of the heating system;
  • pressure testing of pipes (cleaning of liquid with compressed air);
  • dismantling the radiator to be replaced.

Radiator connection diagrams

Installing radiators with your own hands requires a correctly selected connection diagram. It depends on the location of the inlet and outlet openings for the coolant. In total, there are three radiator connection schemes:

  • cross (heat loss 2%);
  • lower (12-13%);
  • single-pipe (19-20% losses), also called “Leningradka”.

Connection diagram for battery with thermostat

The choice of connection diagram depends on the type of heating: single-pipe or two-pipe. The first option is most common in apartment buildings. The principle of this scheme is that the incoming and cooled coolant move along the same circuit. With a two-pipe system, the cooled coolant moves for subsequent heating through a separate pipe.

In private houses with a two-pipe heating system, the bottom radiator connection diagram is considered the most popular - it is characterized by relative ease of installation and low heat loss.

Features of connecting and installing radiators

When installing radiators with your own hands, it is impossible to avoid certain difficulties. But you can reduce them to a minimum by following the instructions and guidance provided by our specialists.

Aluminum radiators

Installing aluminum heating radiators requires assembling the sections together, screwing in a plug with gaskets and radiator plugs, and then installing the Mayevsky tap and thermostatic fittings. The aluminum radiator is installed on special brackets, pre-fixed to the wall.

Cast iron radiators

In principle, the installation of cast iron batteries is not much different from aluminum batteries, but it is necessary to take into account the weight of the radiator and the strength of the wall. This is especially true for multi-section cast iron radiators; their weight can exceed 100 kg.

In wooden or dilapidated houses with weak walls, it is more advisable to install cast iron ones not on brackets, but on special mounting legs; they can be sold separately or together with the battery. It is also advisable to use additional supports.

To increase heat transfer, the batteries are installed at an angle of about 5 degrees. It is recommended to make a slope in such a way that air accumulates at the valve, that is, this angle should be set a little higher. Before installation, it is necessary to unscrew the cast iron radiators in order to check the tightness of the nipples between the connecting pipes of the sections.

Features of installation of bimetallic batteries

The bimetallic radiator, despite the fairly high price, is in great demand. The popularity of batteries of this type is explained by their high durability and immunity to the chemical composition of the coolant. But they also have some nuances during installation. It is recommended to carry out installation in a protective film, which will prevent mechanical damage.

Wall mounting occurs using brackets. Due to its lightness, the radiator can be mounted either on a solid concrete wall or on a plasterboard structure. In the first case, the brackets are mounted to the wall using dowels and cement mortar, and in the second - using double-sided fastening fittings.

When installing aluminum and bimetallic radiators, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a valve (Mayevsky) for air release. It should be located at the top of the bimetallic battery. It can be either mechanical or automatic. Each model contains it in the package, or its installation is provided for in the design.

When installing, it is better to use an automatic valve, as it allows you to remove air accumulated in the battery without human intervention, thereby extending the service life of the device.

Regardless of the type of radiator, installing it yourself must be done in strict accordance with the included instructions. By drawing up a clear plan of action, calculating the installation location and using our advice, you can easily install the heating battery yourself. If you decide to entrust the work to a specialist, then thanks to the information received, you will be able to control the process and participate in drawing up a plan, which will help to avoid problems and shortcomings later.

Installation of heating batteries, do-it-yourself installation with photos and videos


Installation of heating radiators: assistance in drawing up a diagram, choosing an installation location, features of connecting the radiator, photos and videos, expert advice

The efficiency of its operation depends on where and how the heating battery is installed. If installation rules are not followed, heat loss can reach from 5 to 20%, which will affect the microclimate in the room. To avoid this, you should know the main sources of heat loss and how to properly install a bimetallic heating radiator.

Basic requirements for room insulation

Few people think about why heating radiators are most often installed under windows, and people would be even more surprised to learn that a deviation of 2-3 centimeters can affect the efficiency of their operation. Sometimes heat loss is 20% only because the heater installation parameters were not followed.

Bimetallic radiators today are not only the most expensive on the thermal technology market, but also the most durable, reliable and durable. Therefore, it will be doubly disappointing to invest a lot of money on their purchase and connection and end up with a cold room, the heating of which takes a lot of energy resources.

Since, according to their parameters, bimetallic batteries are ideal for a “not ideal” urban heating network, their positive qualities should be used to the maximum.

Before installing bimetallic heating radiators, heat loss should be minimized:

  • Up to 50% of heat escapes through uninsulated walls.
  • Windows “eat up” 20%.
  • An unheated basement or attic adds 10% of heat loss.

If you do not carry out preliminary work to insulate the room, then even the best-quality heating radiators will not be able to withstand such losses, or the costs of heating it will be too high.

Not all consumers know that simply installing a foil screen behind the radiator will reduce heat loss by 30%. If it is not possible to fully insulate the external walls, it is enough to make such a reflector to reduce the damage.

Having carried out a complete “audit” of heat losses and eliminated at least some of them, you can begin to calculate how many sections will be required for the room, and where the installation of bimetallic radiators will be carried out.

Choosing a location for the radiator

When the battery is mounted under a window, the laws of physics regarding air circulation are taken into account. They claim that cold air sinks to the floor because it is heavier than warm air. Likewise, the air flow from the window initially goes down, since it is cold, but when heated, it rises. The larger the window, the greater the amount of cold air coming from it, which means that effort and increased energy consumption will be required to heat it.

If the heater is mounted under a window, then the cold flow simply does not have time to spread throughout the room, as it meets the hot air emanating from it. It is important that some rules are followed, which are especially important when installing bimetallic heating radiators with your own hands:

  • If there are several windows in the room, then the batteries will have to be installed under each of them. This will reduce heat loss and create proper air flow circulation.
  • It is known that 2 radiators with a small number of sections have greater heat transfer than one with numerous elements.
  • The distance from the wall to the back of the radiator must be at least 3 cm.
  • When attaching bimetallic radiators to the wall under the window, the distance from it to the floor and window sill must be at least 10 cm.
  • There should be enough space on the sides of the radiator for easy access to it.

People would be surprised if they knew that deviations up or down affect the quality of the radiator and the amount of heat they produce.

When installing brackets for the battery under the window sill, you should use a plumb line to ensure the structure is horizontal. This will protect the system from the formation of air jams in the future.

Battery installation

Installing a bimetallic radiator with your own hands is not an easy task, as it requires not only attention and tools, but also basic knowledge of the sequence of actions.

  • If you plan to connect new batteries to the existing heating system in place of the old ones, then you should first flush the pipes and clean them of rust, scale and debris.
  • At the end of the supply pipe, you need to either clean the existing thread, and if it is worn out, then cut a new one and screw tees made of bronze or brass onto it.
  • It is necessary to screw ball valves into the straight part of the tee, and connect the rest with a piece of pipe so as to create a bypass.
  • Adapters of the appropriate size are installed in the inlet and outlet holes of the battery.
  • Prepare and install brackets on the wall, which should be included in the installation kit for the radiator.
  • Hang the heating battery on the brackets.
  • Install a Mayevsky valve in one of the side holes to bleed air from the system in the future.
  • If the type of connection allows, then install a thermostat to regulate the heating of the coolant.
  • After the battery is connected to the system pipes, testing should be carried out. To do this, it is necessary to create increased pressure in it. This will allow you to see possible defects in the work and make sure that there is no leakage and the integrity of the entire structure is not compromised.

As can be seen from the above, there is nothing complicated in this work if you do everything sequentially.

Battery wall mount

Before attaching a bimetallic radiator to the wall, you should carefully check that the brackets are installed correctly and securely. The efficiency of the entire system depends on this.

When installing fasteners, you should take into account the weight of the assembled heating battery. Bimetallic radiators are second in heaviest after cast iron ones due to the steel or copper collectors built into them.

Correct placement of the radiator is considered when the brackets are hung in such a way that they provide:

  • The distance from it to the wall is at least 5 cm.
  • The radiator weighs with a slight forward tilt, which will protect it from the formation of air bubbles.
  • The battery plugs must be located at the same level as the heating pipes.

The number of brackets directly depends on the size of the radiator. So for a structure of six sections you will need one fastening at the bottom and two at the top, while for 10 sections you will need 2 on each side.

A properly secured bracket should support the weight of the radiator and not bend under its weight. To achieve this, all fastenings are checked manually. If they move even a millimeter, then it is better to remove the dowels and reinstall them.

Only after the fastenings have been checked can radiators be hung on them and connected to the heating system.

As can be seen from the above, there is nothing difficult in installing bimetallic radiators on your own. The main thing is not to rush anywhere and stick to the sequence of actions.

Heating radiators differ from each other construction and metal, from which they are made.

Each type is more or less suitable for apartment.

Bimetallic. The design has elements made of different metals. There are aluminum-copper and aluminum-steel pairs. A good solution for an apartment. They have the highest heat transfer among other types of radiators. They are easy to install and have a high operating pressure of 35 atm. They are relatively expensive.

Aluminum radiators relatively easy to install, they have good heat dissipation. Working pressure is up to 18 atm, which makes installation in high-rise buildings possible. Almost resistant to corrosion. They are not installed if the pipes are made of copper, since this metal reacts with aluminum, which destroys both the pipe and the device.

Cast iron common in old houses of small number of storeys due to the low operating pressure of max 12 atm. They are not very suitable for apartments because, firstly, they are heavy, which makes the installation process difficult. The devices heat up slowly and cool down slowly, making it difficult to regulate the room temperature. On the other hand, these devices do not react with the coolant and are durable.

Steel. Inexpensive solution for multi-storey apartment buildings. They rust quickly, so their service life is short - 15-25 years. But they are easy to install. Compatible with any pipes. There is no possibility of expansion with additional sections.

Exist special instructions for installation of thermal radiators. They are prescribed in SNiP. The device must withstand the coolant pressure in the heating system

The metal from which the radiator is made should not be combined with the system pipes galvanic couples. This happens, for example, when aluminum and copper interact. The reaction of such a connection will lead to corrosion.

Distance between the device and the protruding part of the window sill should be 10 cm. If this figure is less than 75% of the depth of the radiator, the release of heat flow will be difficult.

There must be a gap of at least 10 cm and no more than 15 cm between the bottom edge of the device and the floor. At a small distance, heat exchange will take place ineffective and slow, and with a large one there will be a strong temperature difference across the height of the room.

Important: the upper planes of the radiator sections must be in the same plane; a spread of more than 3 mm is unacceptable.

If the device is installed not under a window, but near a wall, the distance between these two surfaces is not less than 20 cm.

Radiator location

The thermal device is installed in such a way that its heat transfer is as efficient as possible.

Best place- under the windows, since it is through them that the greatest heat loss occurs. If the room has an external cold wall, additional radiators are installed on it.

Pipes in the heating system:

  • Steel pipes traditionally installed in high-rise apartment buildings. Tolerates high pressure and temperature. Subject to corrosion.
  • Metal-plastic They began to be used when laying a heating system recently, but they have already become popular. Convenient for installing radiators.
  • Polypropylene pipes are also popular. The ease of installation is due to the possibility of permanent connection using the diffusion welding method.
  • Polyethylene pipes although they are not used often due to their somewhat high price and small scope of application. The latter is due to the design feature, or more precisely, the bending radius.
  • Copper- a rare solution due to the high cost and high requirements for the coolant. Installed only in private homes.

Accessories

Fittings include auxiliary elements. designed to bleed air or other gases from the radiator. The presence of air in a heating device is called "air bag". This may cause the radiator to not work properly.

Attention! Before bleeding air from heating radiators, carefully read the instructions to avoid depressurization of the system.

There are also reflective screens on sale, which are mounted on the wall behind the heating device, designed to reduce heat loss. Radiator evaporators that maintain indoor air humidity. Fans that are installed on the device itself to increase heat transfer and drying.

What prevents efficient heating?

It can be cold in the room not only due to poor performance of the device, but also because of the barriers that the person himself sets. Heat transfer decreases If:

  • the radiator is covered with long curtains;
  • the device is covered with upholstered furniture;
  • there are protruding window sills;
  • There are decorative grilles on top.

Connection diagrams and installation of an additional radiator

There are several installation diagrams heating radiators in the apartment :

  1. Lateral. The most common connection scheme due to high heat dissipation. The pipe through which the coolant is supplied is connected to the upper pipe, and the outlet pipe, respectively, to the lower one.
  2. Lower used mainly in apartments where pipes are hidden in the floor or run under the baseboard. The supply and discharge pipes are located at the bottom.
  3. Diagonal used to connect radiators with more than 12 sections. Warm liquid is supplied to the upper pipe on one side of the battery, and is discharged through the lower pipe on the other.
  4. Sequential can only be used in systems with high pressure, which is capable of ensuring the movement of coolant through all radiators.

Installing an additional radiator:

  1. Remove coolant from the system.
  2. Select a location for fastenings and install brackets.
  3. Assembling the radiator. For this purpose, a special sealing flax is used. To tighten connections, use a torque wrench.
  4. Installed on one of the side unused holes Mayevsky crane. The rest are plugged with a cork.
  5. The radiator is installed on the wall and can be adjusted horizontally and vertically.
  6. The thread is cut at the connection points with the riser, and the remaining necessary elements are attached. Everything is connected into one system.
  7. At the end - a mandatory leak test.

Before installing a battery in an apartment yourself, you need to thoroughly prepare. Even minor errors can lead to an accident and additional cash costs. You should choose the radiator itself, evaluate which connection scheme will be most effective and prepare the necessary tools in advance.

If you have basic technical knowledge and skills in working with tools, install the radiator is quite real. It is important to do your research, follow the instructions, and weigh each step.

For a master class on installing heating radiators in an apartment with your own hands, watch the video:

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Schemes for installing heating radiators in an apartment - take a closer look at the video:

Find out how to connect a heating radiator with the greatest efficiency from the video below: