How to install plastic window mounting plates. How to fix a window: review of fastening hardware and a photo report of the installation completed. Installation of anchor plates

Hello. Today we will talk about window fasteners. Personally, I prefer a frame dowel with a diameter of 10 mm. Why? Let's learn more about how to fix plastic windows.

The choice of fasteners for windows primarily depends on the material of the wall into which you will mount your window:

• Brick
• Tree
• Aerated concrete, foam concrete, cinder block
• Concrete

Secondly, on the type of construction and technical specifications installation:

• Loggias
• Entrance doors
• Stained glass

How to fix plastic windows. Types of fasteners.

1. Anchor or frame dowel. It comes with a diameter of 8 mm, but practice shows that the optimal diameter of the frame dowel is 10 mm. In my opinion, the most reliable and convenient fastening for windows.

Available in different lengths: 72 mm, 92 mm, 112 mm, 132 mm, 152 mm, 182 mm, 202 mm. Used as follows:

• A hole is drilled in the window frame using a metal drill with a diameter of 10 mm.
• Then, using a hammer drill, a hole is drilled in the concrete, right through the frame.
• Next, the frame dowel is inserted and driven into the concrete until it rests against the frame. Then the screw is tightened. There is an opinion that the dowel should be recessed inside the profile. I consider this optional. Therefore, as for the dowel head, there is even a special decorative plug. And the fastening strength in both cases is almost the same.

2. Anchor plate. For each type of window profile, especially popular ones, a specific type is produced anchor plates. But since, according to the technology, the plates need to be screwed to the window frame, you can use any window plates (only for the sake of economy, of course).

By the way, regarding screwing the plates into the frame. There are so-called crab plates. That is, they cut or snap into the profile. So, if there is a quarter in the opening, many installers do not screw such plates. The window will not fall out, and this is the most important thing. After all, a quarter holds the window.

It must be said that there are cases (nowadays less often) when window installers, grossly violating installation technology, do not use fasteners at all. Simply fix the window with wedges and fill it polyurethane foam.

I hope such cases will pass you by.

3. Wood screws. Used for attaching windows to wood. The cheapest fasteners, and this is probably the only plus.

4. Concrete screw. I think it is only used in Europe. I went to the professional store “” in St. Petersburg, where you can buy a lot of things, and talked with the sellers. They don't have these screws.

How to attach plastic windows to brick?

Brick is good material for the construction of buildings. But attaching plastic windows to brick is sometimes problematic. What exactly is the difficulty?

If you use a frame dowel, then it is better to drill holes in the frame for this dowel not in advance, but locally. This is necessary in order to get the anchor directly into the middle of the brick, and not into the mortar between the bricks. Of course, no one does this (by the way, neither do I). After all, this is a waste of time.

Frame dowel, it is advisable to choose the maximum long length(minimum entry into brick 6 - 10 cm). If the brick is hollow, then use the 202nd anchor.

Apply anchor plates You can put it into a brick if you are sure that the brick is not hollow. But even solid brick can be of poor quality. And it will be very difficult for a non-professional to attach the plate into it.

How to attach plastic windows to wood?

The ideal option for fastening windows for wood is anchor plates. And no one can convince me of this. Frame houses or timber, plates only.

From my bitter experience, I’ll tell you how I fastened windows with screws to the top of the frame in a house made of timber. And there was a casing, and a gap of about 4 cm. A year later, the timber began to shrink, and these screws, together with the timber, went straight into the double-glazed windows.

As a result, several double-glazed windows were replaced under warranty. Got the money. After this incident, if I use screws, then only in exceptional cases, and only in the side parts of the window frame.

By the way, even during construction frame houses, professionals do not recommend using hardened screws. Wood is a living material and when moved, screws break, and a nail, for example, bends. The same principle applies to the anchor plate.

Anchor plates for wooden houses good for the following reasons:

• Quick installation
• Compensates for thermal expansion
• Does not affect window structures during shrinkage

How to attach plastic windows to aerated concrete?

The aerated concrete wall is loose. Can be mounted on a frame dowel with a maximum length of 202 mm. This is the easiest and fastest way.

But it's more correct fix plastic windows onto the anchor plates through a special dowel for aerated concrete. It's a little longer and more complicated. In addition, you need to buy or have a hex bat in your arsenal.

How to fix plastic windows in concrete?

If you mean concrete good quality, from which, for example, jumpers are made over window openings, then drilling such concrete with a diameter of 10 mm under a frame dowel is a bit difficult, but it is possible.

In this case, it is better to use anchor plates. But the panels and block houses, it is just more efficient to mount it on a frame dowel. It's more reliable and faster.

At the beginning of the article, I said that the choice of fasteners for windows also depends on the type of structure. So I want to talk about this type of glazing of loggias and balconies.

As a rule, the window fasteners fall into the very edge of the top concrete slab or into the edge of a brick bottom and side wall. Therefore, attaching loggias to the edge of the wall using a frame dowel can be quite dangerous.

Anchor plates are a great way out of the situation.

And finally, I would like to say about the big advantage of anchors, which is at the same time a disadvantage for anchor plates.

When the window frame is attached to anchors, at the time of drilling you level only one vertical plane. And you adjust the second vertical plane after inserting the anchor.

When fastening with anchor plates, you will have to set two vertical planes and only after that make holes with a hammer drill. This requires certain skill and skill.

If you or someone you know has previously used the services of companies installing double-glazed windows, then you know that installation can be normal and in accordance with GOST. The second option is more expensive, but if all the requirements are met, the quality will be much higher than in the first (you can read more about the standards in GOST 30971-02).

Consists of several stages.

Note! Manufacturers do not provide a guarantee if the measurements were not carried out by their employees. If installed incorrectly, the windows will soon begin to freeze, and if even the slightest mistake was made in the calculations, the structure simply will not fit into the opening.

However, if you study all the intricacies of the process, then no difficulties will arise during installation. Moreover, this way you can save a decent amount of money.

Video - Installation of PVC windows according to GOST

Stage 1. Measurements

In most apartments there are openings without a quarter.

Note! A quarter is an internal frame 6 cm wide (or ¼ brick, hence the name) that prevents the window from falling out and strengthens the structure as a whole.

If there is no quarter, then the frame will be installed on anchors, and the foam will be covered with special covers. Determining the presence of a quarter is quite simple: if the internal and external widths of the frame are different, then there is still a quarter.

1. First, the width of the opening is determined (the distance between the slopes). It is recommended to remove the plaster for a more accurate result.
2. Next, the height is measured (the distance between the slope above and the window sill).

Note! The measurements must be repeated several times and the lowest result taken.

To determine the width of the window, subtract two from the width of the opening installation gap. To determine the height, the same two gaps plus the height of the profile for the stand are subtracted from the height of the opening.

The symmetry and straightness of the opening are checked, for which they are used mounting level and plumb line. All defects and irregularities must be indicated in the drawing.

To determine the width of the drainage, add 5 cm to the existing drainage for bending. Also, the width of the insulation and cladding is taken into account (subject to subsequent finishing of the facade).

The dimensions of the window sill are determined as follows: the width of the opening is added to the size of the overhang, and the width of the frame is subtracted from the resulting figure. Regarding the offset, it should cover the heating radiator by a third.

Note! measured after installation is complete.

Stage 2. Order

After measurements finished drawing should be taken to the window manufacturer, where all the necessary fittings will be selected. It is worth remembering that installation can be performed in one of two existing ways:

In the first option, you will have to pull the package out of the frame, insert it into the opening and install the glass back. In the second case, the entire structure is attached as a whole. Each option has disadvantages - if you pull out the package, it can; and vice versa, if the window is installed assembled, it can be damaged due to its heavy weight.

Prices for a popular line of windows

Stage 3. Preparation

This stage of installation begins only after delivery of the ordered windows. Released first workplace, all furniture is covered plastic film(there will be a lot of dust).

Step 1. If required, the glass unit is removed from the window. To do this, the glazing bead is slightly pryed with a staple and pulled out. First of all, the vertical beads are removed, then the horizontal ones. They must be numbered, otherwise gaps will form after installation.

Step 3. The bolts are unscrewed after the plugs are removed from the canopies. The handle is turned to the “ventilation mode” (in the center), the window is opened slightly and removed. All that remains is the frame with imposts.

Note! Imposts are special jumpers designed to separate the sashes.

Then you need to make a marking for the anchors and make holes along it - two on the bottom/top and three on each side. To do this, you will need ø1 cm anchors and a drill of the required diameter.

If the material from which the walls are made is not dense (for example, cellular concrete), then the fastening is carried out using anchor suspensions. The latter should be fixed to the wall and frame with hardened self-tapping screws (eight pieces for each).

Note! To avoid the formation of a thermal bridge in the window sill profile, it should be filled the day before installation. This way the element will not freeze.

Stage 4. Dismantling work

This procedure is recommended to be carried out immediately before installing a new window. In most cases, the old ones are thrown away, so the structure can be torn out along with the fastening, and if necessary, the frame can be sawed.

Step 1. First, the seal and thermal insulation are removed.

Step 3. The window sill is removed and the cement layer underneath is cleaned off.

Step 4. Adjacent surfaces are treated with a primer material (by the way, many installers forget about this). In the case of a wooden opening, a layer of waterproofing material is laid around the perimeter.

Note! Installation can be carried out at a temperature not lower than -15ᵒC. Polyurethane foam must be frost-resistant.

Stage 5. Installation of a plastic window

Step 1. First, wooden wedges are placed around the entire perimeter, a window is installed on them (this will make it easier to level the structure), only after this is it fastened to the wall. You can leave the backings - they will serve as additional fasteners.

Step 2. The absence of a support profile can be considered a gross violation of GOST standards, since it is not only needed for stability, but also makes it possible to install a low sill with a window sill. In the absence of a profile, they are attached directly to the frame, which violates its tightness.

The correct location of the stand profile is shown in the diagram.

Step 3. Next, the evenness of the window is checked in three planes, for which a mounting level and plumb line are used. It is characteristic that traditional bubble levels are not suitable for this due to insufficient measurement accuracy, so it is better to use.

Step 4. If the window is level, then it is secured with anchors. To do this, a wall is drilled using a hammer drill through pre-prepared holes in the structure (approximately 6-10 cm). The lower anchors are fixed (not completely), the evenness of the package is checked again, after which the remaining points are attached.

Note! The final screed is made only after the final inspection. Do not tighten too much, otherwise the structure will “skew”.

Prices for mounting foams and cleaning gun cleaners

Polyurethane foams and cleaners for construction guns

Stage 6. Drainage

From the outside, the ebb is attached to the stand profile with self-tapping screws. The joints are carefully sealed with sealant to prevent moisture from penetrating into the structure.

The edges of the ebb are recessed several centimeters into the walls, having previously made indentations using a hammer drill.

Note! Before installation, the bottom gap is also sealed.

Stage 7. Window assembly

After attaching the anchors, the glass unit is inserted back.

Step 1. The glass is inserted and fixed with glazing beads (the latter should snap into place, for which you can lightly tap them with a rubber hammer).

Step 2. The doors are opened and their tightness is checked. In the open position, arbitrary opening/closing of the sash cannot happen if the window is installed level.

Step 3. The assembly seam is sealed on the sides. Polyurethane foam will provide high-quality waterproofing and will prevent the glass from fogging up. Before and after sealing, the seams are sprayed with water to improve polymerization.

Note! The seams are filled to no more than 90%, otherwise the structure will “lead.” If everything is done correctly, after drying the foam will protrude out a few centimeters.

Step 4. The perimeter of the window is glued with a special vapor barrier tape, and a material with a foil surface is used below.

Stage 8. Installation of the window sill

Step 1. The window sill is cut so that it fits into the opening and at the same time rests against the lining profile. There remains a small gap (about 1 cm) for thermal expansion. Subsequently, the gap is hidden by plastic

Step 2. Wooden wedges are placed under the window sill. It needs to be laid with a slight slope towards the room, and then applied with something heavy until the foam dries. Additionally, the window sill can be fixed with anchor plates.

Video - Instructions for installing plastic windows

conclusions

Now you know how plastic windows are installed, so you can safely get to work. The final check of all elements can be carried out only 24 hours after completion of installation (then the foam will have already “set”).

The described technology is also quite applicable to, although it also has its own nuances - such as, for example, installing a parapet to create a partition.

Find out how to do it correctly from our new article.

Hello readers! I haven't written on the blog for a long time. The season for installing and adjusting windows before winter has begun. Everyone wants to stay warm.

So, many clients are interested in how we attach plastic windows. I’ll say right away that there is no single fastening.

It all depends on where the window is installed. Therefore we can use anchors or plates. In general, I got tired of answering the same questions and I decided to put them in one article, a link to which they will give to all their new clients.

I hope you find this information useful too. Read, get acquainted.

The choice of fasteners for windows primarily depends on the material of the wall into which you will mount your window:

• Brick;
• Tree;
• Aerated concrete, foam concrete, cinder block;
• Concrete.

Secondly, on the type of design and technical installation conditions:

• Loggias;
• Entrance doors;
• Window;
• Stained glass.

How to fix plastic windows. Types of fasteners

1. Anchor or frame dowel. It comes with a diameter of 8 mm, but practice shows that the optimal diameter of the frame dowel is 10 mm. In my opinion, the most reliable and convenient fastening for windows.

Available in different lengths: 72 mm, 92 mm, 112 mm, 132 mm, 152 mm, 182 mm, 202 mm. Used as follows:

A hole is drilled in the window frame using a metal drill with a diameter of 10 mm. Then, using a hammer drill, a hole is drilled in the concrete, right through the frame.

I consider this optional. Therefore, as for the dowel head, there is even a special decorative plug. And the fastening strength in both cases is almost the same.

For each type of window profile, especially popular ones, a certain type of anchor plate is produced. But since, according to the technology, the plates need to be screwed to the window frame, you can use any window plates (only for the sake of economy, of course).

By the way, regarding screwing the plates into the frame. There are so-called crab plates. That is, they cut or snap into the profile.

So, if there is a quarter in the opening, many installers do not screw such plates. The window will not fall out, and this is the most important thing. After all, a quarter holds the window.

It must be said that there are cases (nowadays less often) when window installers, grossly violating installation technology, do not use fasteners at all. Simply fix the window with wedges and fill it with polyurethane foam.

I hope such cases will pass you by.

3. Wood screws. Used for attaching windows to wood. The cheapest fasteners, and this is probably the only plus.

4. Screw for concrete. I think it is only used in Europe. I went to the professional store “Fixtures” in St. Petersburg, where you can buy a lot of things, and talked with the sellers. They don't have these screws.

How to attach plastic windows to brick?

Brick is a good material for building buildings. But attaching plastic windows to brick is sometimes problematic. What exactly is the difficulty?

If you use a frame dowel, then it is better to drill holes in the frame for this dowel not in advance, but locally.

This is necessary in order to get the anchor directly into the middle of the brick, and not into the mortar between the bricks. Of course, no one does this (by the way, neither do I). After all, this is a waste of time.

It is advisable to choose a frame dowel of the longest possible length (minimum penetration into the brick is 6 - 10 cm). If the brick is hollow, then use the 202nd anchor.

You can use anchor plates in brick if you are sure that the brick is not hollow. But even solid brick can be of poor quality. And it will be very difficult for a non-professional to attach the plate into it.

How to attach plastic windows to wood?

The ideal option for fastening windows for wood is anchor plates. And no one can convince me of this. Frame houses or timber, plates only.

From my bitter experience, I’ll tell you how I fastened windows with screws to the top of the frame in a house made of timber. And there was a casing, and a gap of about 4 cm. A year later, the timber began to shrink, and these screws, together with the timber, went straight into the double-glazed windows.

As a result, several double-glazed windows were replaced under warranty. Got the money. After this incident, if I use screws, then only in exceptional cases, and only in the side parts of the window frame.

By the way, even when building frame houses, professionals do not recommend using hardened screws. Wood is a living material and when moved, screws break, and a nail, for example, bends. The same principle applies to the anchor plate.

Anchor plates for wooden houses are good for the following reasons:

• Quick installation;
• Compensates for thermal expansion;
• They do not affect window structures during shrinkage.

How to attach plastic windows to aerated concrete?

The aerated concrete wall is loose. Can be mounted on a frame dowel with a maximum length of 202 mm. This is the easiest and fastest way.

But it is more correct to attach plastic windows to anchor plates through a special dowel for aerated concrete. It's a little longer and more complicated. In addition, you need to buy or have a hex bat in your arsenal.

How to fix plastic windows in concrete?

If you mean good quality concrete, from which, for example, lintels are made over window openings, then drilling such concrete with a diameter of 10 mm under a frame dowel is a bit difficult, but it is possible.

In this case, it is better to use anchor plates. But it is more efficient to attach panel and block houses to a frame dowel. It's more reliable and faster.

At the beginning of the article, I said that the choice of fasteners for windows also depends on the type of structure. So I want to talk about this type of glazing of loggias and balconies.

Typically, the window fastener hits the very edge of the top concrete slab or the edge of the brick bottom and side walls. Therefore, attaching loggias to the edge of the wall using a frame dowel can be quite dangerous.

Anchor plates are a great way out of the situation.

And finally, I would like to say about the big advantage of anchors, which is at the same time a disadvantage for anchor plates.

When the window frame is attached to anchors, at the time of drilling you level only one vertical plane. And you adjust the second vertical plane after inserting the anchor.

When fastening with anchor plates, you will have to set two vertical planes at once and only after that make holes with a hammer drill. This requires certain skill and skill.

Good afternoon everyone!

Knowledge is power, you can’t argue with that.

An acquaintance recently contacted me asking whether it was possible to install windows himself.

He decided to build his own country house, to occupy oneself, so to speak, after retirement, and prepares an information base regarding each stage.

And I, as a window specialist, came in handy. Threw it for him short plan actions, but decided to consider all the issues in detail on my blog.

Find all the principles and nuances of installing window structures further in the text.

Installation plastic windows DIY is not as complicated as it seems at first glance.

However, in order to properly install a plastic window, you need to know some things that you cannot do without.

We present to your attention instructions for installing plastic windows yourself.

Technology and procedure for installing plastic windows with your own hands

The installation sequence of a plastic window consists of the following steps:

1. Removal of old windows (if replacement is being carried out).
2. Preparing a new plastic window.
3. Installation and alignment of the stand profile for the future window.
4. Attaching fasteners to the window frame.
5. Creating recesses in the wall where fasteners are attached.
6. Inserting and aligning a plastic window horizontally and vertically.
7. Fixing the window in the opening using fasteners at the holes for them.
8. Foaming (filling with foam) the gaps between the plastic window and the window opening.
9. Installation and alignment of the window sill.
10. Installation of slopes.
11. Adjusting window fittings.
12. Installation of ebb from the outside of the window.

The last point can be performed at the end of all work if you are building a private house, cottage.

If you live in an apartment, then installation of the drip tide must be done after installing windows without double-glazed windows.

To do this, before installing the window, the glazing beads are removed (a screwdriver is slipped between the glazing bead and the rubber gasket, and with light blows it knocks the glazing bead out of the groove), and then the double-glazed windows are removed.

Thus, it is easy to level and install the drip pan through the window.

Before installing the window, a stand profile is installed.

It's as easy as shelling pears: place the profile in in the right place, align horizontally and foam.

But before foaming, it is better to place a window on the profile and see if it fits normally into the remaining space.

If there's too much left at the top free space, then something should be placed under the profile.

It is better to insert the stand profile directly into the bottom groove of the window.

If the profile is not provided in the package, then you need to place blocks under the window to the height of the window sill in order to secure the window sill under the lower groove of the window. When the installation of the stand profile is completed, we proceed to install the window.

First, you need to attach the fasteners to the window that will hold it in place. It is best to use flat anchor plates. They should be located perpendicular to the plane of the window at a distance of 10-20 cm from the corners of the frame on each side.

Fastening to the window is done with a metal self-tapping screw about 10 cm long (1 self-tapping screw is screwed into the dowel at the end of the anchor plate into the frame from the outside, the second at the other end of the plate into the wall and also into the dowel).

If you are inserting a plastic window without double-glazed windows (with empty frames), then the fastening screws are screwed from the inside of the frame into the wall using dowels, but not completely, so as not to damage the frame structure.

For the dowel, you first need to drill a hole. When the anchors are fixed in the window, insert it into the window opening and align it.

After this, in the future places where the anchor fasteners are attached to the wall, we punch holes under the entire fastener plate, so that we can then cover the entire fastener with mortar and level the wall for installing the slopes.

After fixing the plastic window in the opening, check its vertical and horizontal positions again. Therefore, you should not immediately screw the screws into the opening completely.

It is better to do the leveling work together, so that one person holds the window, and the second places the bars for leveling. We proceed to filling the space between the window opening and the plastic window with polyurethane foam.

The main thing is that the foaming is one hundred percent. If the space between the window and the opening is more than 2 cm, then you can foam in 2 stages with an interval of 2 hours.

Note!

Important! Always wet the surface with water before foaming (using a spray gun, for example). This is the only way the foam will adhere to the structure of the walls as much as possible.

If you are installing a window at temperatures below 5 degrees, then use all-season or winter foam. If the temperature is above 5 degrees, any foam will do.

The foam should dry for at least half a day. After this, it must be protected from the harmful effects of the sun's rays. This is done either ordinary solution, either tile adhesive or protective impermeable film.

Installation of the window sill requires preliminary trimming of the excess length, since it comes with a margin in size.

A jigsaw or grinder is perfect for these purposes. Then you should move the window sill to the support profile (if there is one) and level it.

If after leveling there is a large gap between the window sill and the opening, then it is better to seal it with a solution, having first removed the window sill.

If everything is fine, then simple foaming is enough. Don't forget to put caps on the windowsill. It is advisable to cut the window sill so that it fits clearly into the opening along with the plugs. The best way to glue the plugs to the window sill is with super glue.

After leveling the window sill, you need to check it for subsidence by pressing with your hand in several places.

Helpful advice!

If everything is fine, then you can start foaming, having first pressed down the window sill with heavy objects (for example, several bottles of water) to prevent the foam from bulging upward. The next day, excess foam under the window sill can be removed with a regular knife.

By the way, you can install a window sill with a very slight slope from the window (literally 2-3 degrees), so that possible condensation does not leak between the window and the window sill.

Do-it-yourself installation of slopes on plastic windows

Before installing the slopes, you need to remove excess foam around the perimeter of the frame with a knife (this should be done very carefully so as not to damage the window material). To install slopes, PVC panels are taken and cut to the required length (two for the height of the opening, the third for the width of the opening).

After vertical alignment, fastening is carried out using polyurethane foam.

And so that the foam does not push the panels away from the wall, they need to be glued to the walls with masking tape (preferably in three places). After the foam has set, you need to make the final framing at the ends of the panels. For this purpose, there is an F-shaped profile (thanks to this design, it is inserted between the wall and the plank).

Do-it-yourself installation of ebb tides on plastic windows

The ebb tide is installed very simply: first it is inserted into the groove under the window, and then it is leveled, pressed, fastened with self-tapping screws to the stand profile and foamed.

After installing the plastic windows, the fittings are adjusted and a mosquito net is installed. Window adjustment is a separate topic that will be discussed in upcoming articles.

source: gold-cottage.ru

Installing a PVC plastic window with your own hands is not particularly difficult.

You do not need to have specific skills or special professional equipment for these actions.

Naturally, high-quality double-glazed windows made of plastic cost quite a significant amount of money, but the costs for them can be reduced if you install plastic windows yourself.

In this case, the savings will approximately range from 40 to 70 USD. (dollars) and above, on each double-glazed window installed independently.

Just in this article on our blog, DIY construction and repair, we will consider in detail the issue of installing plastic windows yourself.

At the end of the article you will also find a video on how to install plastic windows yourself according to GOST.

Installation of a plastic window - stages:

1. Installation methods - there are two methods for installing a window, with and without unpacking.
2. Fastening elements - types of fastening elements, diagram, immersion depth of fasteners.
3. Insulating materials - what is PSUL and diffusion tape, what should be placed where - diagram.
4. Preparing the opening - how to properly prepare the opening.
5. Installation of low tide - diagram, recommendations for the use of polyurethane foam.
6. Assembling the window - we assemble the window after unpacking.
7. Installing a window sill - recommendations, practical advice.
8. Installation of slopes - installation plastic slopes do it yourself step by step, diagram.

Today there are two methods for installing metal-plastic windows:

- with unpacking the window, and without such an action.

The installation method with unpacking is carried out with a preliminary process of disassembling the glass unit:

- remove glazing beads

- the glass is removed from the frame and placed in a certain place until it is installed.

After this, the frame is attached to the wall surface with dowels (through and through), and then the glazing beads and double-glazed windows are installed back. Please note that this method of installing plastic windows has a number of nuances that we will focus your attention on.

Because this particular one is more labor-intensive but more safe method(For plastic double glazed windows) installation we chose to write the article and of course it is also present in the video of installing plastic windows with your own hands.

Helpful advice!

When removing a double-glazed window, you must be very careful, since careless manipulations with glazing beads can lead to the formation of chips and scratches on them.

Double-glazed windows may accidentally break during the process of removing and transferring them, but if everything is done carefully, nothing terrible will happen.

If you implement this process without unpacking, removal of glass and glazing beads is not required, since the base is attached to the wall using fastening parts pre-installed on the outer area.

But this type of fastening is not suitable for large windows that have a large mass.

From this we conclude that using the first technology to install a window with your own hands is more simple and expedient, but enough of the theory, let’s get down to practice.

A window usually consists of several parts. These parts may be blind or be an opening flap.

Let's now look at how to remove a double-glazed window from the blind part of the window and how to properly dismantle the opening sash.

Removing the glass unit.

After the window has been delivered to you, before installing it, you must remove the double-glazed windows from the blind (non-opening) parts of the window.

Usually, when new glass is delivered, the glazing beads (a glazing bead is a plastic guide that directly holds the glass unit) are not hammered in completely and can be easily removed.

If, after all, the manufacturer has sunk the glazing beads completely, it is necessary to insert them into the seam between the glazing bead and window frame insert a small spatula and carefully tap with a mallet (wooden hammer) directed from the center of the window to its periphery, try to dismantle the glazing beads (there are 4 of them).

After the glazing beads give way and the plastic fasteners begin to come out of the grooves, they need to be assembled, since we will need them when installing the glazing beads back.

We don’t think it’s worth reminding that everything needs to be done very carefully so as not to break the expensive double-glazed window.

It is best to carry out this operation together, since holding a double-glazed window, which on average weighs 30 kg, and doing something in parallel is not an easy task.

And one more thing, you need to store the removed double-glazed windows on a clean, hard surface, and also better double glazing(double-glazed windows) lean against the wall, if there are several of them, then lay a layer of soft, clean rag between them.

In order to remove the opening sashes of a plastic window, you need to open it slightly to gain access to the hinges.

Dismantling the opening sash must begin with disassembling the top hinge.

To do this, you need to remove the spindle (the rotating shaft inside the loop), you first need to press on it from above (most likely with a screwdriver), after which part of this shaft will appear from below.

Hooked bottom part Using pliers, remove the spindle downwards accordingly.

After the upper hinge is disassembled, you need to slightly tilt the window from the horizontal axis, the lower hinge will allow you to do this, then lift the sash by approximately 5 cm.

After this, the sash will be freed from the second bottom loop. To carry out this dismantling, it would be good to call a partner who will insure you, since the masses of both sashes and double-glazed windows, as we have already noted, are on average 30 kg.

Fastening elements.

Fastening elements, in our case these are anchor bolts, are distributed along the entire perimeter starting from the edges, and maximum distance between bolts 700 mm, and the minimum is 150 (see diagram below).

Also, the fastenings should be located near the imposts (an impost is a horizontal or vertical bar that divides the window into parts) both above and below to impart rigidity to the structure of the plastic window.

Types of fastening.

According to GOST, there are three types of fastening:

1. Fastening using a concrete screw.
2. Dowel nails with anchor plates.
3. Fastening with an anchor bolt.

When installing plastic PVC windows With our own hands, according to GOST, we choose the fastening method using anchor bolts. This is one of the most complex and at the same time the most durable types of fastenings, where you don’t have to think about the weight of the window.

Fastening with an anchor bolt.

• concrete - 40 mm
• solid brick - 40 mm
• Shell brick – 60 mm
• porous blocks natural stone— 50 mm

Installing a plastic window according to GOST involves the use of special insulating materials; this is dictated by the fact that the humidity in the room is higher than outside, so some of the moisture penetrates inside the seam even with a vapor barrier tape installed.

If the outer contour of the seam is made as tight as the inner one, then moisture will gradually accumulate in the seam, which will lead to the loss of its heat-shielding qualities, therefore, when constructing assembly seams, it is always necessary to observe the principle that the inside is tighter than the outside.

For these purposes, PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tape) is used. If the distance between the bottom profile and load-bearing wall less than 40 mm, use PSUL; if this distance is more than 40 mm, then diffusion tape with similar properties.

PSUL, just like diffusion tape, is glued to window frame, they are designed to protect the polyurethane foam from exposure external environment, and also so that moisture can escape from assembly seam, during the operation of plastic windows.

From all of the above, we conclude that ideally it is necessary to use diffusion tape at the bottom of the window, and PSUL on top and on the sides of the window profile.

You can see an example with diffusion tape in the video of installing a plastic window with your own hands, presented at the end of the post, and the use of PSUL is schematically presented in the diagram below.

Preparing the opening.

The opening must be cleared of debris and dust. If necessary, the edges of the opening must be leveled and strengthened.

After all these procedures, it is necessary to moisten the surface of the opening with water to improve adhesion (Adhesion is the adhesion of surfaces of dissimilar solid and/or liquid bodies).

The frame of the window block is installed in the opening; the frame should not be placed on the surface of the opening, but should be installed on load-bearing supports; for this, plastic wedges can be used.

These wedges are installed under the corner and impost joints of the frame and there must be at least three of them.

For leveling, apply a level to the location of the glazing bead, since the rebated part in practice is not always level, due to the fact that it could be deformed at the time of drilling.

After this, you need to take a drill with the attached level and drill holes in the window frame and then in the wall.

After that in drilled holes It is necessary to insert the anchor bolts, but not all the way, in order to be able to level the frame.

After all the anchors have been installed in the holes, we re-check whether the frame is installed level and if everything is fine, we recess the anchor bolts and screw in the anchors, at this moment wedging occurs, and the frame is already “tightly” fixed in the window opening.

Low tide installation.

The next step in installing PVC windows with your own hands is installing the ebb. The sill can be ordered from the window manufacturer, or you can use the old one, if, of course, it is in good condition.

The ebb is attached to the stand profile with several self-tapping screws (see diagram).

The time has come when it is necessary to use polyurethane foam.

During the work process, the temperature of the cylinder with mounting foam should not be lower than 20 degrees C.

Therefore, in the cold season, when the temperature is below zero, it is necessary to wear special coats, both on the barrel of the applicator gun and on the cylinder itself.

Note!

Polyurethane foam is used for gaps from 10 to 60 mm, but if the width is more than 60 mm, it is recommended to reduce the window opening using a less expensive building material- for example brick or foam.

Window assembly.

After we have installed the window frame and ebb all external works After installing the PVC windows with your own hands, you are finished and you can return the sash and double-glazed windows.

First, we install the double-glazed window.

To do this, insert the glass unit into installed frame, it would be good if your partner held the double-glazed window in this position, and at that moment you inserted the beads onto the guides and, with gentle blows of the mallet, seated them in their places (do not forget about the plastic clamps).

Then you need to install the window sash, to do this you need to lift the sash and align the hinges, then insert the spindle from below and press them all the way (here you can also use a mallet and gentle blows).

When installing a window sill, it must be pre-cut.

Then attach it tightly to the support profile, after that we level the window sill using a level and lay down various materials.

The window sill may have a slight slope from the window to drain condensation, but under no circumstances should it sag.

After 12 hours, when the foam has hardened, the load can be removed and excess foam must be trimmed.

Helpful advice!

The weight was intended to prevent the foam from deforming the window sill during the drying process.

It is very undesirable for a gap to remain between the window sill and the frame; if there is one, it must be sealed with silicone. We must try to avoid the formation of such a gap.

The first thing you need to do when installing slopes is to attach a wooden strip to the perimeter of the window (inner perimeter of the window opening, see photo).

Fastening should be done with screws approximately 95 mm long.

The plank should not stick out from the window opening, but should, as they say, be flush.

To make the slopes even, you need to level the planks using a level.

After this we attach the U-shaped starting profile on the outer window frame. Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws, which are screwed directly into the window frame.

IN this profile slopes will be inserted, so the outer edges must be connected as carefully as possible.

The next step is to install the F-shaped profile; it is fastened with a construction stapler.

The groove of such a profile is located opposite the groove of the U-shaped profile; the slopes will be placed in these grooves. In the part that is located above the window, the F-shaped groove is carefully cut off either with a knife or with iron scissors, because this groove overlaps the upper part of the window.

After the U-shaped and F-shaped profiles are installed around the entire perimeter, slopes can be inserted. If you can’t get the seams to fit exactly, you can coat them with white silicone.

source: remont-s-umom.blogspot.ru

Today I will tell you how to install 8 plastic windows and an entrance door with your own hands in one day.

To perform this work you will not need special skills or expensive equipment.

But, of course, there are many nuances that are definitely worth paying attention to. And of course there are several secrets on how to save money when ordering.

I used windows that had optimal thermal characteristics

- with four chamber window profile
- And double-glazed window
— as well as a reinforced entrance door.

By the way, it was the door that made up almost half of the cost of the order.

And the total costs amounted to 40 thousand rubles for the set and another 4.5 thousand rubles for delivery. How to buy windows at the same price is at the end of the article.

1. Let's get started!

2. We have a newly built aerated concrete house, in which we need to install 8 windows and one entrance door.

First of all, we take all dimensions from the openings.

As you remember, I made overhead quarters around the perimeter of the openings on three sides (a quarter is not needed at the bottom - the window sill will be there).

For quarters I used standard ones aerated concrete blocks 5 cm thick, which were installed like all masonry on polyurethane foam.

The recess of windows during installation should be at least 1/3 of the wall thickness.

It is also worth noting that you should not try to make openings under standard sizes windows - their production technology is automated and there is no difference in cost between standard size or a custom window.

We calculate the final window dimensions taking into account the following factors. On the side and top from the frame to the wall there should be a gap of 1 to 2 centimeters on each side, which will be filled with polyurethane foam.

At the bottom of all windows from the factory there is a 3 centimeter high stand profile, which is needed for convenient installation window sill.

Plus, under the delivery profile there should also be a gap of about 1 centimeter for the mounting foam. Total, roughly speaking from internal dimensions the opening needs to be subtracted 4 centimeters horizontally and 6 centimeters vertically.

You shouldn’t get too carried away and push the frame into the opening without a gap, because... It will be extremely inconvenient to pour polyurethane foam into a gap of less than 5 mm.

3. It is important to know that opening sections greatly increase the cost of the construction of any window. Therefore, if the goal is to save money, you need to make the most of fixed, non-opening windows.

In case of suburban one-story house there is no problem going outside to wash the windows, and for ventilation you can make an opening transom (due to the design features, it is several times cheaper than a tilt-and-turn mechanism, but at the same time its width should be significantly greater than its height, more precisely, its height cannot exceed 50 centimeters).

The advantage of the blind section is also that you don’t lose effective area glazing. In my case, there are 5 blind windows measuring 60x60 cm, two blind panoramic windows 1.4x1.7 meters, one tilt-and-turn window 0.6x1.3 meters and an entrance door with partial glazing 0.9x2.3 meters.

The above price includes the windows and door only (including hinges, handles and locks). Separately, I needed to purchase anchor plates, dowels, self-tapping screws, PSUL sealing tape, polyurethane foam, window sills and ebbs for a total of 3.5 thousand rubles.

4. We will need: a screwdriver with a concrete drill, polyurethane foam with a gun, PSUL tape, fastening plates, dowels for aerated concrete and self-tapping screws.

Note!

Once again I want to draw your attention to the fact that measuring instrument You can't save money.

5. There are two ways to secure the window frame: through fastening with unpacking of double-glazed windows and using anchor plates.

The first method requires more time and skills.

In particular, you will need to carefully remove the glass unit from the frame and then install it in place.

The glazing beads that hold it are usually fixed very firmly and in order not to scratch the edges you will need a special spatula and patience.

Plus if we're talking about about installation with two hands, then with large windows the problem will be that the removed double-glazed window cannot be tilted, unlike the frame in which it is installed.

In addition, through-mounting requires precise fixation when drilling and an assistant will definitely be required. Much easier installation carried out on mounting plates.

Helpful advice!

Each such plate costs 10 rubles. They need to be installed at the rate of 1 plate for every 50 centimeters.

The plate is installed by turning it in the groove of the frame and fixed using a self-tapping screw with a drill (to drill metal carcass inside the frame).

6. After this, PSUL tape is glued to the outside of the frame on all sides except the base - a pre-compressed sealing tape.

It is used when installing a window in an opening with quarters.

The purpose of the tape is to protect the polyurethane foam from ultraviolet radiation and therefore destruction. In the cold season, it is easier to install windows, because... the tape expands very slowly in the cold.

7. A six-meter roll of PSUL tape costs 140 rubles. When fixing the tape on outside It is preferable to step back 1-1.5 cm from the edge of the frame, especially if you have deep quarters.

This should be done so that when pouring polyurethane foam between the frame and the wall, it does not get on the PSUL tape.

8. Now we move on to the window opening. His geometric dimensions ideal, and the base perfectly matches the horizon level.

This happens naturally when building with aerated concrete if you follow the technology and level each next row of masonry to zero. I started the installation with small blind windows and they differ from the others in that they will not have window sills. Therefore, we will not use the stand profile.

9. Place the window and mark the location for the mounting holes. We drill and install special screw dowels for aerated concrete.

It is worth paying special attention that you should not try to hammer them in with one blow, especially if they are located close to the edge of the block - there is a risk of breaking off a piece of the block. After this, we insert self-tapping screws through the mounting plates.

10. Our next task is to install the window strictly vertically.

In the case of small windows this will not be difficult, because... there will be no skewing of the window diagonally and it is enough to take measurements at any point of the frame. After this, tighten the screws on the fastening plates and remove the piece of laminate at the base.

Note!

Any window must be fixed so firmly that it can be held in the opening solely by the mounting plates.

Polyurethane foam is used primarily for filling voids and thermal insulation, and not for mechanical fixation frames in the opening.

11. You will have to tinker with large windows. Each one weighs more than 80 kilograms and will not be easy to lift into the opening alone.

I built a staircase from blocks and gradually raised the window 5 centimeters upward.

3 on each side, except the bottom.

Here you need to pay closer attention to the verticality of the frame and apply a level in all corners.

On large windows At the bottom there is a support profile in which the window sill will be installed.

Directly below stand profile I also underlaid a laminate plate, which was removed immediately after fixing the anchor plates to the wall.

12. The tilt-and-turn window is 2 times smaller in size, but for it I decided to use 8 anchor plates, because an open sash will add load to the frame.

On average, it takes about 30 minutes to install one window. And very serious mistake, which is accepted by the majority - the protective film from the frame must be removed immediately after installation.

Helpful advice!

Even if you installed the windows at the beginning of the renovation, the film must be removed immediately.

If this is not done, then it will be more difficult to tear it off, and the plastic will burn out unevenly (this is important for the outside of the frame).

13. Let's move on to front door. This is a reinforced door with 3 hinges with a full frame around the perimeter. Opening inward is much more convenient than opening outward.

But most people have a stereotype that the door should be opened outwards. When installing door frame the most important thing is to ensure a uniform fit around the perimeter.

I used 10 anchor plates to secure the door. Special attention It is worth paying attention to the verticality of the side walls of the door frame in two planes.

For reliability, the fixation of each anchor plate can be supplemented with a second self-tapping screw. As with windows, the door should be fully functional when held in place only by anchor plates.

It should not warp when opened and it should fit snugly around the perimeter when closed.

14. Now we take a gun with polyurethane foam. The presence of a pistol is mandatory because it allows you to regulate the volume of foam output.

Helpful advice!

There are nuances with foam that you definitely need to know.

First, the foam is afraid of ultraviolet radiation and needs to be protected from sunlight. For this purpose, there is PSUL tape on the outside of the window; on the inside, it is necessary to plaster the slopes or, as an option, paint over it. As for applying foam, it absolutely cannot be trimmed.

The shell that has formed on it protects the internal open cellular structure from moisture absorption and subsequent destruction. Therefore, the seam between the frame and the wall should be filled exactly to the extent that the excess does not protrude outward.

It is important not to overdo it with deepening the gun nozzle, because... do not forget that on the outside we have PSUL tape and it should not come into contact with fresh foam.

Approximately 5-10 minutes after filling the seams with foam, you should visually check its condition and, if necessary, carefully compact it (before it hardens, this is easy to do). If work is carried out at temperatures below +5 degrees, it is imperative to use special winter foam.

Most likely, the frame is not strictly vertical in all corners. This can be corrected by adjusting the hinges and lock.

16. Done! The windows and door should be left for a day until the foam completely hardens. And we move on to the finishing stage.

17. Let's take it plastic window sills 20 centimeters deep.

In total, I need 3 window sills: two 140 cm and one 70 cm. A finished window sill 150 cm long cost me only 200 rubles. We cut off the excess using a jigsaw and install it under the frame in the stand profile.

It is worth keeping in mind that the depth of the window sills into the frame is 2 centimeters; this is important when choosing the depth.

Note!

Before installation, do not forget to remove the protective film around the perimeter.

We install the window sill either strictly horizontally or with a slight (1 degree) slope from the window.

18. We cover the edges with special plates, which should be glued with superglue.

As a support when setting the level, you can use a trim from the window sill itself or a wooden block. After this, we weigh the window sill from above so that the mounting foam does not lift it up.

And fill the entire plane of the base with foam from below. Just as with window frames, you should control the expansion of the foam and prevent it from having to be cut with a knife. Just tamp it down until it hardens.

19. The final chord is the installation of low tides. We cut it to length, fix it to the window frame using self-tapping screws (after having coated the joint silicone sealant), fill the base with polyurethane foam and load it.

20. Done!

Don’t forget to remove the protective film from the frames, window sills and ebbs. There is nothing complicated about installing windows and you can handle this amount of work alone.

By doing this work with my own hands, I saved more than 15 thousand rubles on installation.

Plastic window structures are rapidly ousting their wooden counterparts from the market. If you also decide to replace your old windows with more modern designs, it won’t hurt you to read the instructions for installing new PVC windows yourself. Professional installers They charge quite a lot of money for this kind of work. Does it make sense to overpay if you can solve all the problems yourself?

It is assumed that before the installation begins, you have already decided what window size will suit you, what configuration the new systems should have, what fittings you will order, etc. Solve these issues yourself or with the help of a consultant from the company you decided to entrust with the production of plastic windows.

Immediately before starting installation, you need to decide whether you will fasten the windows through the frame or use a method that involves the use of special fastening “ears”.

The first option is more common. However, it may seem inconvenient to you for the reason that before installation begins, you will need to remove the hinged sashes from the frame, and remove the double-glazed windows from the blind sashes.

The second option is more convenient for self-installation– you don’t have to disassemble anything, therefore, the risk of damage to the structure and violation of its tightness is minimized.

When choosing the second method, find yourself a smart assistant in advance. The assembled window weighs quite a lot, and installing it yourself is incredibly difficult.

Preparatory work

Just before the start PVC installation windows, you have to perform a number of important preparatory work.

Preparing the site

When ordering windows, check when they will be delivered to you. Start preparing the site shortly before the windows are delivered.

First step. Move all furniture and appliances away from the window opening.

Second step. Cover the floor and radiators protective film or thick fabric.

Third step. Organize your workspace so that nothing disturbs you, and everything you need to install the window is at hand.

First step. Remove the sashes and dismantle the double-glazed windows if you prefer the fixation method through the frame.

To remove a double-glazed window, carefully pry up the fastening bead using a simple chisel and carefully press the fastener out of the groove with the same chisel. First, remove the vertical fastening beads. Then, in the same order, remove the horizontal fasteners.

To avoid confusion in the future, be sure to label the fasteners. Their size may differ slightly, but even a difference of a fraction of a millimeter will be enough to cause gaps to appear.

Second step. Tilt the window frame. The glass unit will come out of the mounting grooves on its own. Carefully place the removed glass unit against the wall or other stable surface at an angle.

Third step. Remove the plugs from the sash canopies and unscrew the fastening bolts. Next, you need to release the top part of the casement window. To do this, turn the knob to “ventilate”. Reach the hook located in the lower canopy.

As a result, you will get a “bare” frame with jumpers.

Fourth step. Prepare holes for anchors on the inside of the window frame. Place the holes around the perimeter of the product so that there are at least 3 fastening points on each side, and at least two at the bottom and top.

The diameter of the anchors for fixing windows is 0.8-1 cm. To create holes, use a drill of the same diameter.

If the plastic window is fixed using special “ears”, disassembly of the structure can be ignored. In such a situation, all preparation comes down to fixing the fasteners from the kit to the frame using screws.

Video - How to remove glass from a PVC window

Instructions for dismantling the window

First step. Remove or tear out the sashes, depending on the design of the window.

Second step. File the box and frame at several points.

Third step. Use a crowbar to pry up each part of the structure and remove the frame from the opening. In some situations, it is more convenient to immediately find the two hundred nails that hold the window in place and pull them out.

Fourth step. Remove the thermal insulation and sealing materials that appear under the box.

Fifth step. Remove old slopes using a hammer drill. If the slopes are in good condition, you can leave them alone. At this point, focus on your plans for the further design of the slopes.

Sixth step. Pry up and remove the old window sill.

Seventh step. Get rid of the cement backing under the window sill and at the bottom of the window opening. A hammer drill will help you with this.

Eighth step. Collect construction waste from suitable containers and throw it in the trash. Take the remains of the dismantled window there.

Ninth step. Align the ends of the opening and clean them of dirt. Prime the surfaces.

Tenth step. Relevant only for residents of old wooden houses. Lay waterproofing material around the perimeter of the opening. In some situations, it is necessary to additionally install a wooden reinforcing box.

If necessary, the dimensions of the opening can be reduced using cement screed. At this point, focus on the conditions of your specific situation.

Installing and securing a new window

Proceed with installing the pre-prepared window.

First step. Place special plastic underlays or wooden blocks at the bottom end of the opening. Select the dimensions of the substrates so that their upper edges are connected into an even horizontal line.

The substrates are laid in the corners and in the center of the opening.

Second step. Install a “bare” or assembled frame onto the substrates, depending on the window installation method you choose. There is no need to dismantle the substrates; they will continue to perform their supporting function.

Without supports, the window may simply fall out. The anchors, no matter how often you check and tighten them, will still become loose under the weight of the structure. Therefore, to further strengthen the system, the substrate must be placed not only at the bottom, but also along the side edges, closer to the top of the opening.

Third step. Check horizontal placement window design using an ordinary water level.

If any deviations are found, remove the pegs or get rid of them. unnecessary elements substrates.

Fourth step. Check that the window is installed vertically. Detected deviations are eliminated as in the previous step.

Fifth step. Proceed to secure the window with anchors in accordance with the chosen fixation method.

Fastening using the “through the frame” method

First step. Take a hammer drill and drill similar holes for fasteners in the wall directly through the holes prepared in advance in the frame.

Second step. Secure the lower part of the structure on both sides. To do this, you need to insert and secure the anchors, but you do not need to complete the fastening immediately.

Third step. Make sure the window is positioned vertically. Immediately correct deviations according to the scheme already familiar to you. If everything is fine, use a hammer drill to drill holes in the central and upper parts of the window frame. Insert and tension the anchors. Information about required quantity fasteners was given earlier.

Fourth step. Re-check that the window is installed evenly. Get rid of deviations immediately if you find them.

Fifth step. Tighten the anchors fully. Do not overtighten them, because... the frame may become deformed from excessive tension.

Video - How to install a PVC window

Plate fastening

IN in this case Special plates will be used to fix the window. They are placed on one or two sides of the window block. The plates are made of thick metal and have the shape of “ears”. Such elements are initially provided with holes for anchors.

With this installation method, you need to bend the mounting plate into a step. The “ear” of the plate should fit as tightly as possible to the wall surface. The second part of the plate is bolted to the frame.

Fastening is carried out with the same anchors. The window is fixed in the same order: first the bottom, then the top and the middle. At each stage of installation, be sure to check the evenness of the structure. Without maintaining vertical and horizontal levels, your window will simply become deformed over time.

Window assembly and final inspection

After securing all the anchors, proceed to reassembling the window if you initially disassembled it. The process is performed in the reverse order of disassembly.

First step. Insert the double-glazed windows into the window frame and secure them with glazing beads, first at the top, then at the bottom, and finally at the sides. A rubber hammer will help you snap the beads into place.

Second step. Reattach and secure the swing doors accordingly. Follow the reverse order of dismantling them.

Make sure the valves move normally. In its normal state, the sash does not produce any unauthorized movements when it opens 45 degrees and 90 degrees.

Third step. Complete the inspection and seal any existing gaps between the walls and the newly installed window. Fill the gaps with special mounting foam in cylinders.

At this point, the main work of installing PVC windows yourself is considered complete. At the end, all you have to do is install a plumb line, window sill, mosquito net and make slopes at your discretion.

Installing a window sill (Read the article about installing a window sill with your own hands). Wetting with water. Dust removal

Installing a window sill Laying out cement mortar

Window sill installation. Wetting with water. Dust removal

Window sill installation. Alignment. Grout

Window sill installation. Drying

Window sill installation. Finished work

Happy installation!