How to install an interior door. Interior door installation technology How to install interior doors correctly

U The installation of interior doors in an apartment should be carried out according to certain rules that customers should know. After all, about mistakes in the repair and decoration of a room or apartment can seriously complicate installation and cost a pretty penny!

You will be able to reduce the cost of installation, avoid mistakes in choosing doors, fittings and opening sizes, and help the craftsmen do everything efficiently.

Door opening dimensions

• Opening width

The door leaf is usually 60/70/80/90 cm wide. The correct width of the opening is the width of the canvas +8 or +9 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is from 1.5 cm to 2.5), or +10 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is 2.5 cm and above ).

• Opening height

For all cases, the correct height of the opening is the height of the door leaf + 6 cm. from the finished floor, that is, 206 cm. Doors to the bathroom can be 190 cm high, so the correct opening height is 196 cm.

Here are some examples of correct openings:

• Canvas 80x200 (cm.) - opening 89x206 (cm.)
• 70x200 - opening 79x206
• 60x200 - opening 69x206
• 60x190 - opening 69x196

The dimensions of the doorways need to be determined in advance and it is very important to constantly monitor your team during the repair process.

Door widths for different rooms

If you have the opportunity to plan the width of doors and openings in advance and have questions about what door width to choose, then follow these recommendations:

• doors in rooms are usually made 80 cm wide so that furniture can be brought in/out. Width 90cm. This happens very rarely because such canvases are heavy and can sag on their hinges over time.
• bathroom doors are usually made 60-70cm so that a 60cm thick washing machine can easily pass through the opening. Keep in mind that 60cm. The door assembly has a clear opening of approximately 58 cm. due to the recesses in the door frame.
• The door leaf for the kitchen is usually made 70-80cm. It is also necessary to take into account that handles on both sides may interfere with passage into the kitchen.
• in the dressing room they usually make the width 60-70cm.

When is it necessary to install extensions?

When installing interior doors, if the thickness of the wall is greater than the thickness of the door frame, it is recommended to purchase. You can, of course, stick wallpaper on the ends of the walls, but it will look out of date, and there will be nothing to nail the trim on the other side of the wall.

If installed, it will be a good solution that will beautifully decorate the slopes. The color of the additions can be selected, for example, to match the MDF panel.

The width of standard extensions according to the warehouse program is usually 10/12/15/20 cm. If your walls are very thick (more than 20 cm), then the extensions need to be joined in width or order non-standard extensions from production, which will cost much more.

Which side of the door should the extensions be installed on?

It depends entirely on how you planned the opening. Usually, if your door opens into a room, then the frame is placed flush with the room wall, and the extension will be in the corridor.

If you do the opposite, the door will not open completely (it will hit the door). Sometimes they put up with this so that the doors look the same - ALL extensions to the corridor or all extensions to the rooms. Therefore, this is already a matter of convenience and design, taking into account the future arrangement of furniture in the apartment.

Scheme for opening interior doors

Usually, if in one corridor some doors open into the corridor, and some open into rooms, the closed doors will look different due to the characteristics of the door frame. If the doors are next to each other, and at the same time one opens inward and the other outward, then the height of the upper trims will not match.

This is what the door looks like from the common corridor, which opens into the corridor, that is, towards us:
This is what the door looks like that opens into the room, that is, inward:
It is necessary to ensure that the cloth does not cover the switch when torn off. It is very desirable that the doors do not intersect with their trajectories. In the bathroom, it is necessary to provide an opening of 180 degrees for quick ventilation after taking water procedures.

Make sure that a door opened 90 degrees does not block the opening of an adjacent door.

In order not to waste time coordinating the opening of doors with the craftsmen during installation, make a drawing diagram on a piece of paper in advance.

At what height from the floor should the door be?

The standard height is 1 cm from the finished floor. As for bathroom doors, it is not recommended to do less than 1 cm, so as not to disturb the air flow. If you have plastic windows, do not forget to make supply valves for air from the street so as not to increase the air humidity in the apartment too much when the windows are closed.

Installation of interior doors during apartment renovation and the sequence of work stages.

In order to protect the wooden parts of the doors from warping due to high humidity during repairs, it is necessary to do the installation after ALL finishing work, including in adjacent rooms.

Early installed doors can be accidentally damaged by tools during the repair process. Tile or wallpaper adhesive, especially plaster, takes quite a long time to dry, releasing moisture into the room. Increasing the humidity above 70% for several days increases the risk that the doors will pick up moisture from the air, swell and stop closing properly.

However, if you like to bathe or shower frequently, humidity does not pose any threat, since the bathroom is quickly ventilated.

Installation of interior doors should be done if you already have a finished floor!

Without doors, it is much easier to lay floor coverings, and it is easier to install them later, with a clear connection of the platbands to the floor.

If you first install the box directly on the screed (main floor), then it is impossible to place the floor covering under the box, since it is already on the floor. In addition, it is difficult for the master to correctly calculate the lower gap of the door from the subfloor, taking into account the future covering, especially if the floor has not been leveled.

If you did everything correctly and did the installation after laying the finished floor, it will not be difficult to replace the floor in the future - you just need to pull out the laminate or parquet from under the door posts and slide in a new covering. In this case, the racks will not lower but will remain hanging.

What to do if the doorway is much higher (wider) than the frame?

A common mistake made by repair teams is openings that are too high, because the maximum height should not be higher than 208~209 cm, or better yet, 206 cm. from the floor covering.

Sometimes in new buildings standard opening can be 217-220cm high. This is explained by the fact that many customers make heated floors and the height after their installation becomes standard. If no one paid attention to this during the repair and a situation arose when the upper casing does not cover the opening.

Solution: if your opening is higher than necessary, but there is no way to reduce the opening, glue the wallpaper lower before installing the doors, or order high capitals instead of the upper casing, but usually they are installed on the side of the corridor. A more thorough way is to lower the height of the opening using drywall and wooden blocks and then glue the wallpaper.

Another option: if the platbands are flat in shape, saw off at the joints at 90 degrees, and the upper platband is cut from extensions that are wider. Some customers get out of the situation this way. The disadvantage is that sometimes the additional strips are thicker than the platband, and that if you do all the doors in the apartment this way, it will look a little wild)).

If the opening is wider than required by at least 2-3 cm on the sides, the foam seam will not have sufficient strength, and this is important, since the mounting foam helps maintain even gaps and ensures the overall resistance of the door to loads.

Solution: narrow the doorway with a wooden beam with a section of 3x5, 5x5 or at the repair stage using foam blocks and tile adhesive.

How to straighten a crooked doorway?

First, you need to check the walls to the right and left of the opening for humps/depressions by attaching a long rule, a plank or a flat board to the wall. Humps are especially common closer to the floor. Even one small hump will prevent the platband from fitting tightly to the wall.

To solve this problem there is only one option: to plaster and level the walls. If you don’t want or can’t level the walls in the entire apartment or wall, then do it only around the openings (about 50cm wide) and glue the wallpaper.

Then you need to check the verticality of the walls using a laser or bubble level. The ends of the openings must be parallel, the walls must be smooth and strictly vertical. If the opening is crooked, the walls are inclined, there are humps or depressions, act according to the circumstances.

If you understand that the opening is crooked and moves away from the vertical by more than 1 cm, you can level the walls with plaster according to the beacons, aligning them vertically and re-gluing the wallpaper. As you already understand, this is the best and most difficult solution!

How to install a door in a crooked opening?

But what if there is no way to level the wall? Let's say the wall in which the door is supposed to be installed is blocked from the vertical by more than 1 cm per two meters of the height of the opening. Then you have three options:

• Install the door frame along the plane of the wall, the trim will fit snugly against the wall, but the door will also be tilted and will probably close on its own, slam, etc.
• Install the box vertically in level, with the platbands adjacent in the upper part and moving away from the wall by the amount of deviation of the wall from the vertical in the lower part (or vice versa), worsening the aesthetics.
• Buy a door with telescopic platbands and install it straight, slightly deeper into the wall and, where necessary, pulling the platbands out of the grooves. This is a good solution to the problem, unless you need to open the door 180 degrees, since opening the door leaf more than 100 degrees will tear out the hinges.

The choice is yours, in all cases there are disadvantages and there are advantages, because it is a compromise.

What if the door is located close to the wall?

In such an opening, one wall is perpendicular to the other wall, and it is necessary to reduce the width of the platbands and attach them close to the wall on both sides. But by reducing the width of the trim we still spoil the appearance of the door, see photo: However, there are several other options to solve this problem:

1. If the renovation has already been done and wallpaper is glued to the walls, you can screw a wooden beam with a section of 3x6, 3x4 or 4x4 (no more) to such a wall. It becomes possible to install an entire platband close to the wall.
2. Extend the doorway by at least 5 cm from the wall and cut the same distance from the opposite wall of the opening at the repair stage. The platband will be located at a short distance from the wall, which looks much more beautiful.
3. During the renovation stage, increase the doorway by 5 cm on both sides and order doors 10 cm wider, for example 70 cm. instead of 80cm..

Installing an interior threshold

The door leaf is located in the opening closer to the part of the wall where the door will open, so the threshold covering the joint of the floor when the door is closed should be located under the door leaf and then it will not be visible when the door is closed, see photo:

A common mistake made by repair crews is incorrect placement of the sills! To avoid such a mistake, draw a diagram in advance for opening all the doors and give it to the foreman before laying the finished floors.

Installation of interior doors in the bathroom

For living rooms and kitchens, it is recommended to order doors 2 meters high. For bathrooms in new houses, a 1m high sheet is often required. 90cm. due to the presence of waterproofing and special high thresholds. If you missed this point and did not order doors with a height of 190 cm, then you need to expand the opening in height or, as an option, you can shorten the door.

If you increase the height of the opening, then the top mark of the doors to the bathroom and interior doors will be at different levels. If the door is cut from the bottom, the panel pattern is lowered. Therefore, sometimes it is better to order smooth doors for bathrooms.

A common mistake is making a threshold to the bathroom from a wooden door frame, as the aesthetics and ventilation of the wet room are disrupted, and in the future, mold may appear.

Preparing interior door openings

Polyurethane foam will not be able to stick if there is a lot of dust at the ends of the doorway. It is necessary to remove dust or prime the ends of the opening walls if they are covered with gypsum putty or if the walls are made of gypsum/aerated concrete blocks.

If there are open round cavities and voids at the end of the opening, they can be sealed with plaster, leaving marks with a pencil so that the craftsman does not drive fasteners into them. Holes for fastening the door frame are drilled between these cavities into the lintels.

If the walls of the opening are made of plasterboard, then in the metal profile at the vertical ends of the opening Necessarily you need to lay a dry wooden block. It is needed for reliable fastening of doors with self-tapping screws through the hinges and the mate, and it also imparts rigidity to the walls in the area of ​​the opening. Doors installed in openings without reinforcement are doomed to short-term use and will quickly sag.

If a block is placed inside the metal profile and the ends are not sewn up with anything, then this is not correct. Foam does not adhere well to galvanized metal. Peeling may occur over time. To avoid this, strips of gypsum board or gypsum board or plywood are screwed to the ends. Foam adhesion to these materials is excellent.

It is not allowed to leave voids between sheets of drywall in the upper part of the opening. The fact is that the top box is often very bent or bent when wedging, and to straighten it, for example with the help of foam, a filled end of the wall is required.

Preparing the opening for sliding doors

For those wishing to install sliding sliding doors, the opening height for a standard door should be approximately 202 cm. and the width of the opening should be equal to the width of the door leaf or a couple of centimeters wider. In the process of finishing the opening with extensions and platbands for the portal, its dimensions should become smaller than the door leaf.

At a height of 207 cm. up to 212cm. there should be no voids from the floor in the opening, since a wooden beam with a section of 5x5 cm and a length of approximately 190 cm will be horizontally fixed here, to which an aluminum top rail with rollers will be attached.

Finishing a doorway (portal) in an apartment

If you don’t want to install an interior door, you can install a portal instead. This solution increases the space in a small apartment, so it is a win-win option for visually combining adjacent rooms: hall and living room, corridor and dining room, living room and small kitchen. A doorway without a traditional door surprisingly transforms a room:

Preparing the flooring before installing doors

A common mistake made by repair teams when laying floor coverings is when the gap between the floor covering and the wall in the area of ​​the platbands exceeds the thickness of the platband. And you just need to remember to make it no more than 3 mm. in the area of ​​platbands.

A recess (groove) can be made in the wall near the floor to compensate for possible expansion of the floor covering.

Storing doors after purchase

To avoid deformation under the influence of gravity, the canvas, box beams and platbands must be stored on a flat surface before installation. Doors can be placed on their side against the wall.

Doors, trims and frames can change their sizes after changes in humidity. Due to the build-up of humidity after cold weather, it is necessary to store the door and molding indoors for several days before installation. Do not remove the packaging from the doors in advance until the temperatures have completely equalized.

Which loops to choose?

• If the canvas weighs up to 20 kg, then it is optimal to buy 2 loops 10 cm high
• If the canvas weighs from 20 to 30 kg, then you need to buy 2 loops of 12-12.5 cm. height
• If the canvas weighs more than 30 kg, then you need to buy 3 loops of 10 cm each. height

The hinges are hung at a distance of 20 cm from the top and bottom of the door leaf. The thickness of the metal and the absence of play are very important. If the metal thickness of the hinge is 3 mm, then these are good hinges; a thickness of 2-2.5 mm is much more common. It is very good if the hinges are made of brass or steel. The most common door hinges come in several types:

• universal hinges- these are traditional mortise hinges familiar to all of us. If the choice of hinges is not a fundamental issue, buy universal hinges. They can open both to the right and to the left. In addition, universal hinges have a longer service life.

• - not mortise, overhead hinges. Easy and simple to install. They got their name for their special unusual design - both of its elements, when open, resemble butterfly wings. During the process of closing the door leaf, one part of the hinge easily fits into the other, forming a single whole. Typically, such hinges are installed on lightweight doors.

• — time-tested mortise hinges; a door with such hinges is simply removed if it opens 180 degrees. There are right and left depending on the door opening

How to choose locks and latches?

It is best to choose locks and latches based on the quietest operation of the mechanisms when opening and closing and their reliability. Magnetic locks are quiet, but not all, they need to be bought more expensive and preferably Italian, there are very high-quality options. Don't skimp on them so as not to suffer later.

Cheap latches with plastic tabs are not always of high quality; here you should first ask knowledgeable people (not sellers), and not buy too suspicious options. It will work quietly for six months, and then suddenly it will start making noise. Sometimes such cheap magnetic locks and latches do not work immediately after installation. Door installers know these models well.

You can buy classic latches/locks. It would be best to choose them with plastic tongues, as they are the quietest in operation and do not clank like metal ones.

Sometimes it happens that the new latch is difficult to operate. In this case, place a couple of drops of silicone grease on the lock tongue.

Door handle height from floor

For Europe - 95 cm. Nowadays many symmetrical doors are produced, in which the handle, according to the design of the door, should be located strictly in the middle of the leaf. Therefore, the standard handle height for Russia is 1 meter.

Almost all models of door handles come with screws that are too long, which, when screwed into the door, can jam the lock or lead to its unstable operation. Door installers almost always screw handles with their own self-tapping screws.

How to choose the right specialist to install an interior door and check the quality of his work?

How to make the right choice so as not to be left with hopelessly damaged doors? Will the work be done efficiently if the door installer has doubts? Let's first find out how best to check the work of the wizard and analyze everything point by point.

How to check the work of a door installation technician?

1. Look at the quality of the insertion of locks, the joints of the frame and platbands, and the insertion of hinges. There should be no gaps
2. The lock tongue should fit into the strike plate without play.
3. The canvas should evenly fit along its entire length to the rebate or rubber seal. When closing the door, the elastic should not be jammed by the canvas.
4. The gaps between the door and the frame must be even along the entire length.
5. The box is secured in the opening not only with construction foam, but also with fasteners
6. The canvas should not close or open on its own.
7. The fittings must rotate freely
8. The price may rise only due to the increased volume of work that cannot be foreseen in advance.

How to choose a door installation specialist? Basic methods.

1. The master must highly specialize in installing doors! It is necessary to watch or see the work live (at a friend’s apartment). The master or team must have at least 1 year of experience and must provide professional equipment: a miter saw, a cutting table or a hand-held circular saw, milling cutters, a screwdriver, a drill, a hammer drill, a pin gun with a compressor, templates for fittings, etc. Read

How to install an interior door, video and photo

Interior doors not only delimit space into separate zones, but also decorate the interior and create a mood. The design should be comfortable, safe and practical. When purchasing a block in a store, installation services are usually offered, but knowing how to install an interior door, you are quite capable of doing the work yourself.

A variety of shapes, opening methods, materials and stylistic solutions allows you to choose an option for any room according to the owner’s preferences.

Doors to the room are made:

• made of wood, plastic, glass, aluminum and their combinations;
• swing, sliding, folding, sliding, double-leaf;
• symmetrical, right, left;
• deaf, glazed;
• with or without threshold;
• paneled, panel, frame.

The surface is finished with plastic, valuable wood veneer, laminate, leather, textiles. They are covered with paints, varnish, enamel, and pasted over with decorative films.

Before installing an interior door with your own hands, determine what is included in the kit and its design features.

What is included in a complete set of interior doors

The standard set of single-leaf swing structures includes:

• door leaf;
• box;
• platbands or capitals.

Additionally, the manufacturer may include in the kit:

• extras;
• threshold;
• crossbar;
• closers.

Sliding options are equipped with metal guides, rollers, a lower guide and a thrust mechanism. Accessories are usually purchased separately.

In typical apartments, the openings are standard - height 2060 mm, width 700, 800 or 900 mm, wall thickness 80 mm. Ready-made kits of the most common sizes are available for sale. In private homes, dimensions may be different. Then the door blocks are made to order.

Step-by-step installation of interior doors

How to install an interior door is a simple task for an experienced installer. But even a craftsman who knows how to work with wood is quite capable of it.

The purchased door is unpacked and carefully inspected to ensure the color of the components matches, the integrity of the corners, glass, and mirrors. After installation, the store does not accept quality claims.

Installation of interior panels includes the following steps:

• dismantling the old door and preparing the opening;
• insertion of fittings into the canvas;
• inserting the striker and hinges into the box;
• door frame assembly;
• installation of the block in the opening;
• hanging the canvas;
• installation of additions and platbands.

Before installing doors in new buildings, walls, partitions, rough or finished floors must be ready. If an old structure is being replaced in a room, the canvas can be hung on the existing box if it is in satisfactory condition.

Dismantling the old box and preparing the opening

Dismantling the old box begins with the canvas. A pry bar is inserted into the lower gap near the floor or threshold and, pressing lightly on it, the door is opened slightly. The panel is lifted and removed from its hinges.

Using an ax and a hammer, the platbands are separated from the box. They file down the post in the middle of the opening, dismantle the vertical boards and the crossbar. Construction debris is removed.

Before installing the interior door frame, prepare the opening. The standard gap between the block and the wall is 10-15 mm.

• 600x2000 mm - 680-700x2050-2070 mm;
• 700x2000 mm - 780-800x2050-2070 mm;
• 800x2000 mm - 880-900x2050-2070 mm.

If the dimensions of the opening differ on a smaller side, it will require its expansion or cutting of the canvas. Changing the width of the door is equivalent to redevelopment; for this you need permission from the BTI.

It is prohibited to enlarge the opening in a load-bearing wall. In non-load-bearing partitions, the width can be changed to 2 m, but a reinforcing lintel or metal frame around the perimeter of the door block will be required.

To narrow the opening, wooden blocks 50-70 mm thick are used. They are stuffed around the perimeter of the box. To reduce the width by more than 10 cm, the wall is laid with blocks, bricks, or a false partition is made of plasterboard.

Important. The thickness of a standard door frame is 70-86 mm. If the depth of the opening exceeds this value, additional boards are used to refine the gap.

Inserting fittings into the canvas

Before installing an interior door, the necessary fittings are cut into the panel - hinges, locks and handles. Common types of loops:

• straight;
• corner;
• hidden;
• screw-in

They are installed by inserting, screwing or laying on the canvas without preliminary preparation of the nest. Depending on which hand the door is opened with, the hinges can be left- or right-handed, universal. It is important not to make a mistake in their location, otherwise it will be impossible to correct the defect after installation.

The hinges are fixed at a distance of 150-300 mm from the top or bottom of the canvas. First, trace the outline of the fittings with a pencil, and use a chisel or hand router to select a recess corresponding to the thickness of the element. Make sure that the surfaces of the hinge strip and the door are located at the same level.

If the landing area is too deep, cut out a rectangular spacer from thick cardboard and place it under the loop.

The insufficiently spacious nest is carefully expanded and deepened. The final processing is carried out with fine-grained sandpaper.

The loop is secured to the canvas with self-tapping screws 35 mm long, which are usually supplied with fittings. The holes are marked with an awl and pre-drilled. The fastener caps are slightly deepened.

Step-by-step insertion of a loop

After installing the hinges, mark the location of the handle and lock. 90-100 cm are retreated from the bottom of the canvas, and the contours of the side strip are applied to the end of the door. The groove under the body of the locking device is made in the same way as the hinges.

Place a lock into the seat, mark the contours of the decorative strip and select a groove. After drilling the hole for the handle, secure the fittings with self-tapping screws.

Markings for attaching hinges to the door post can be done in two ways:

• on a fully assembled box;
• on a hinge stand.

In the first case, the structure is assembled, observing the technological gaps between the canvas, the top bar of the box and the floor plane or threshold:

• 3-4 mm from above;
• 8-15 mm from below.

The canvas is placed in a box and the markings of the loops are transferred to the side beam.

In the second case, the stand is cut with a miter saw at an angle of 45°, observing the necessary allowances. Apply to the side of the sash and mark the contours for the second “wing” of the hinges. Carefully select the grooves with a chisel, drill holes for the screws and secure the fittings. Similarly, mark the grooves for the lock strike plate on the other frame beam and install the part.

Important. For elements thinner than 8 mm, no recess is prepared.

When the racks have already been made to the required size, the top beam is sawed down. To do this, add a technological gap of 6 mm to the width of the web - 3 mm on each side. The excess is cut at a 45° angle using a miter saw or miter box. The bottom of the racks does not need to be touched.

The elements are assembled in the shape of the letter P, connecting at the joints with three self-tapping screws 45 mm long. They are screwed in straight or at an angle, having previously prepared holes with a diameter of 4 mm. If this is not done, there is a high risk of wood splitting. The threshold is installed in the same way as the top bar, maintaining a gap of 4 mm at the bottom.

Door frame installation

The assembled structure is mounted in the opening. If the box is narrower than the partition, it is placed flush with the wall of the room into which the door opens. Strictly monitor the verticality of the racks and the horizontal position of the top bar. Fix with wedges from scraps or bars, fasten to the wall with self-tapping screws to a depth of at least 30 mm.

Over time, the structure may shrink and the fabric may sag. Experts recommend how to install an interior door with your own hands, so that you can later adjust its position. To do this, screw in self-tapping screws in the places where the hinges and lock are installed. Firstly, the screw heads will be hidden under the fittings, and secondly, if necessary, slightly unscrew the fasteners and re-position the box without compromising its integrity.

Hanging the canvas and foaming

After the block is securely installed in the opening, hang the canvas - insert one part of the loop on the panel into the other on the box. Each part is secured temporarily with two self-tapping screws.

To prevent the sash from warping, the position is fixed using 3 mm thick cardboard spacers. They are inserted into the gaps between the canvas and the racks.

Sometimes craftsmen additionally install spacers. This will help avoid deformation of the racks when the polyurethane foam expands. Before foaming, the box and part of the canvas are sealed with masking tape so as not to stain the surfaces of the structure with sealant.

Foaming the box

Installation of platbands and additions

Sometimes, before installing platbands on an interior door, installation of additional parts - extensions - is required. They are glued into the groove, which is formed by a quarter and a strip or solid board, attached to the outside of the box.

In sloping openings for installation of extensions, a frame is made of slats glued or screwed to the wall. The top board is laid on the vertical elements. The voids are carefully foamed.

Platbands are installed according to the following scheme:

• the upper part is applied to the installation site, marked and sawed off at 45° angles;
• fasten the element with thin finishing nails 25-40 mm long, deepening them by 1 mm;
• install the side trims, fixing them with fasteners every 100-150 mm;
• mask the holes with a wax pencil.

By using telescopic L-shaped trims, you can do without nails.

After installing the platbands, check the operation of the locks, the size of the gaps, and the tightness of the closure of the canvas. Visible fasteners are masked with plugs.

In this article, we will step by step understand how to do it correctly. Today, not every person is able to independently install interior and entrance doors into doorways, or at least do it correctly. Turning to specialists will take up quite a bit of money if you need to install, say, 10 doors in your new house or apartment. To save extra money, I advise everyone to read this step-by-step instructions. Special attention: we will talk about wooden doors for internal use. Installing doors yourself from scratch consists of 10 steps.

Step 1.

Do-it-yourself door installation.

We start by unpacking the purchased set of interior or entrance doors and the door frame from it. This should be done extremely carefully, since often at this stage the door receives the first injuries. When opening the package with a knife, sometimes the surface of the door itself is touched, and if the above-mentioned door has a varnish or laminated coating, the defect is very noticeable and is not easy to eliminate. Special attention: Initially, I advise you to unpack only the door frame. It is better to unpack the door itself before direct use, so as not to spoil its appearance even before use.

Step 2.

Do-it-yourself door installation.

The unpacked door frame should be assembled. In the unpacked kit you will find three main components and one additional one. An additional connecting wooden strip is provided for temporary fixation.

At the ends of the door frame panels there are plastic inserts hammered into special grooves.

These inserts must be knocked out, but this should be done extremely carefully so as not to damage the surface of the door frame. To do this, it is best to use a wooden peg rather than hitting the insert directly with a hammer.

Step 3.

Do-it-yourself door installation.

The parts are assembled into a U-shaped groove into a groove. At this stage it is important to maintain the correct geometry. Unevenness is not allowed here! The connected elements are secured with previously knocked out plastic inserts described in step 2. They are driven into the formed holes when connecting the door frame. This work is done using an ordinary hammer. The plank should be finished using a peg, as before, so as not to spoil the wooden surface.

If the elements of the box have shifted when hammering in the insert, they can be aligned with the same hammer. The body should be hit on the wooden plank attached to it.

The final result at this stage should be the same as in the photo.

Step 4.

Do-it-yourself door installation.

At all subsequent stages we will need a special power tool, which includes:

• screwdriver;
• drill;
• milling head.

Having completed all the steps described in step 3 and thus connecting the top of the door frame, we can move on to its bottom part. The same additional element of the kit is used for this - a fixing wooden strip.

Having measured the width along the bottom of the box, we fix it with a wooden plank. We fasten it with screws in places that will subsequently be sealed with mortar into the wall. In this case, you should start screwing in the screw not from the very edge of the plank, since at the fastening point you will only split the plank. We screw it in at an angle approximately as shown in the photo.

See the photo below for the final result of step 4.

Step 5.

Do-it-yourself door installation.

At this point you should measure the height of your doorway. It is necessary to take into account the height of the threshold or its absence. Having decided on the desired parameters, we cut off the bottom of the door frame. This is best done using a miter saw.

Step 6.

We insert the door into the door frame prepared for installation for fitting. Let me remind you that even at this stage it is not necessary to unpack it completely. It is enough to cut only the holes for the handles and the lock. How they are installed will be discussed later. If everything is fine, you can safely proceed to installing the door frame in the doorway.

Step 7

At this stage we proceed directly. To do this, we need to position the door frame perfectly level in the opening. This can be done using a level. After this, we screw the box to the opening. In our particular case, you can use ordinary wood screws, since wooden blocks are laid in the opening made of plasterboard sheets. In other cases, you will have to use a dowel-nail, etc. materials.

The fasteners are screwed in at an angle in those places that will subsequently be hidden under the mounting foam and trim. Under no circumstances should you fasten your frame all the way through the front. This will greatly spoil the appearance and may also cause the door to not function properly, for example making it difficult to open or close.

The gap between the door frame and the opening is foamed with polyurethane foam. Afterwards, a slope is constructed in this place using dry construction finishing mixtures.

Step 8

While the mounting foam we used to seal the gap between the frame and the wall in the opening hardens, we will begin preparing the door leaf. We'll put a lock in it and install handles and hinges.

Using a measuring tool, we mark the location of the door lock at the end of the door. Based on the shape of the lock, we outline a contour along which it will be necessary to remove a layer of wood so that the front part of our lock is flush with the surface of the door leaf. A router saw should be used to remove wood.

The photo below shows the lock used in our particular case, as well as the cut layer of wood necessary for the correct installation of the above-mentioned lock.

For the working part of the lock, a deeper hole is needed, which is best made with a drill with a drill of a suitable diameter.

The work on installing the lock does not end there, since it is necessary to make more holes for the handles on both sides of the door being installed. This is done with the same drill and drill bit. As I already said, it is important in both cases to take into account the required drill diameter.

At the same stage we install the door handles. We put the core into the hole in the canvas in which the lock is installed. We put handles on it on both sides. Next, tighten all the necessary fasteners and clamps. In the described case, three screws and a bolt, which is screwed in with a hexagon, act as clamps and fasteners.

The final step in this step is to install the hinges. In the designated places, by analogy with installing a lock, loops are attached to the ends. As with the lock, a layer of wood is removed with a router saw so that the attached surface of the hinge is flush with the door leaf.

Step 9

Having prepared the door, we return to the box. As on the door itself, on the frame we mark the places for screwing the hinges with a measuring tool. Just as in previous similar cases, it is necessary to use a milling saw.

Next, we outline the place where it should fit into the door frame body. In this place, using a chisel, we make a hole of the required depth and attach the plug, which comes complete with hinges, a lock and handles.

Step 10

We hang the door leaf on the hinges screwed to the door frame and, admiring the result, we can deservedly praise ourselves.
The end result is shown in the photo below.

It is better to unpack the door itself just before you start using it.

Generalization: At each stage where wood was sawed, drilled or cut, its exposed areas must be covered with plain paint. This will improve the appearance and also preserve and protect the surface of the wood. Installing doors with your own hands is real. It also adds to your experience in the repair industry.

I hope this article helped you gain the necessary knowledge and the right level of confidence to begin installing doors yourself. Good luck to you in all your endeavors.

Step-by-step video on how to install doors yourself

Many people don't know how to hang a door correctly. And they turn to specialized offices that, for a fee, will help solve this problem. But you can do this kind of work yourself without spending extra money and time. And you will have another reason to be proud of yourself as soon as you see the result of your labors. We recommend getting started.

How to choose loops?

Before purchasing, you need to decide on the direction and quantity of these parts. With double doors everything is more or less clear. To install them you will need right-hand and left-hand hinges. Determining the direction for a single-leaf door is somewhat more complicated. Stand on the other side of the doors where they open. If the loops are on the right, they are right-handed; if they are on the left, then they are left-handed.

When deciding on the number of hinges, take into account the weight of the door itself. For a single leaf, three hinges are enough. For each double-leaf door leaf, no more than two fastening mechanisms will be required. Can also be secured with four hinges.

Attention! When purchasing hinges, always open them or ask the seller to do so. Otherwise, you may come across a defect in the form of a crooked rod.

Types of loops

Modern hinges are made primarily of steel. Brass ones are very expensive, so they are not worth the money spent on them. It is better to give preference to options made of brass-steel alloy. Higher quality specimens are coated with chrome, which performs protective and decorative functions.

There are several types of loops:

• Classic. They are practically not used for the front door, since they cannot fully ensure proper security. In addition, they wear out quite quickly, which leads to sagging doors.
• With a ball. This type is the most popular now. They are durable due to the use of a special steel ball in the design. It contributes to less friction of the hinge elements.
• Hidden. You won’t be able to hang a door on such hinges on your own without special training and certain knowledge. Despite this, such loops are capable of providing a high level of protection. It is almost impossible to cut them, since the entire structure is hidden inside.
• With support bearings. Such loops can be safely called an ideal option. They evenly distribute the weight of the blade, which ensures the durability of the mechanism. With such hinges, the door will be reliably protected from burglary and sawing.

Attach the loop at the required distance to the end of the fabric. Using a building level, determine the horizon and mark it with a pencil. Using a chisel in the place where the loop will be attached, it is necessary to remove the top layer of the canvas (along the contour outlined in pencil). You don't need to remove a lot - exactly the thickness of the loop.

Then you need to attach the canopy to the door leaf using self-tapping screws. To do this we use a screwdriver. If you don’t have such a tool, you can use a drill, turning it on for slow rotation. When using screws, you must pre-drill the holes. To do this, it is important to work with a drill with a diameter that is 1 mm smaller than the diameter of the screw. Thanks to this, the screw will fit tightly, ensuring reliable fastening of the hinge.

Now you need to mount the door into the frame, open it slightly and insert the lower component of the hinge. It should fit snugly into the box. Trace it with a pencil. This sequence must be followed when working with all remaining loops.

In the circled areas of the box you also need to remove the top layer with a chisel. The lower hinge covers will later be inserted into these recesses. It is very important to ensure that the hinge pin is always in a horizontal position. Otherwise, the door will always open with resistance and jerking.

If it is more convenient for you, you can slightly change the algorithm of actions. First, you can secure the lower components, then proceed to install the upper ones.

The washer between the hinge hinges will allow you to slightly “raise” the door. This will help in cases where it opens and closes with force, the door touches the carpet or scratches the floor.

If there are significant defects on the door leaf where the hinges are installed (for example, cracks or voids), the hinges must be moved. Be sure to move all hinges on the door.

Sometimes the screw does not fit tightly enough into the door leaf. This problem can also be solved very simply. Drill a screw, fill the hole with PVA glue and place a wooden dowel in it. When this structure is dry, you can reinsert the screw into the drilled dowel.

As you can see, hanging a door is a rather painstaking, but quite feasible task for almost any of us. Knowing some tricks, you can do it without outside help. What secrets and useful techniques do you know that will help you hang doors? Be sure to share your comment under this article!

Installation requires tools and basic construction skills. The quality of the work performed depends on accurate measurements. The slightest distortions will lead to jamming of the sash and the formation of cracks. Door blocks are sold assembled or disassembled. In the second case, installation will be more difficult due to the need to assemble the boat yourself.

The installation of doors begins with the preparation of tools. For installation work you will need:

• To place the door level, you need a plumb line and a level. For measurements and markings, use a tape measure with a pencil.
• The process of assembling and installing interior doors includes final finishing with platbands and, if necessary, extensions. A hacksaw with fine teeth and a miter box are useful for cutting planks.
• The power tool you need is a drill with a set of drill bits for concrete and wood, as well as a screwdriver.
• It’s easier to make cuts for fittings with a milling cutter, but if you don’t have a tool, you can get by with a chisel and hammer.

The materials used are self-tapping screws, polyurethane foam, and also many wooden wedges of different thicknesses for spacers. You need to immediately decide how to install interior doors so that the fasteners are not visible.

If preference is given to hidden installation, additional hangers are purchased. You can fix the boat with anchors. Sink the caps into secret holes, putty them, and paint over them.

How to install an interior door with your own hands?

If you know how to use the tool, you can install the doors yourself. It is important to initially take all accurate measurements to avoid distortions. In general terms, the procedure for installing an interior door consists of the following processes:

1. If the frame is sold disassembled, it will have to be assembled. This work increases the installation time of the interior door and also complicates the process.
2. All elements of the door block are equipped with fittings: handles, locks, latches. On a system consisting of rollers and guide rails. When installing a swing door, the door leaf is secured to the door with hinges.
3. After assembling the structure, the installation of doors in the apartment begins with. In the opening, the frame is fixed with anchors or hangers, and the gaps are filled with foam.
4. The sash is hung on the installed boat, adjustments are made, and it is placed with.

To perform the correct installation of an interior door with your own hands, even before purchasing the door block. The dimensions of the frame must be smaller than the passage, otherwise it will have to be removed. It is optimal to maintain gaps when installing an interior door between the door and the wall - from 10 to 40 mm.

Mandatory, but necessary if the depth of the opening exceeds the size of the frame. Protruding sections of the wall are hidden under decorative strips. Step-by-step instructions will help you better understand the installation process.

Box assembly

The installation of an interior door begins by unpacking the purchased unit and inspecting all components. The door frame can be sold assembled or disassembled into individual elements with mounting grooves.

If you purchased a boat with ready-made fasteners, you just need to assemble it. The frame is sold from elements cut to size. There can be three of them: a false and hinged stand, as well as a lintel top bar. If a threshold is provided, then a fourth element is included.

To assemble the frame, plugs are knocked out from the ends of the racks along with connecting pins. The edges of the vertical and horizontal frame elements are joined so that the mounting holes coincide. The connecting pins are driven in with a hammer, and the holes are closed with plugs.

When knocking out the plugs, the blows are applied through wooden pads to prevent the destruction of the decorative coating.

Much more complicated, sold in the form of blanks made of figured veneered timber. You will need woodworking tools, as well as basic knowledge of carpentry. consists of the following steps:

• First, measure the sash. The length of the frame elements is calculated so that a gap of 3 mm is formed between the inside of the pan and the canvas along the entire perimeter. If it is intended to install a sealing rubber, the size of the gap is calculated taking into account its thickness.

• The blanks are marked, then sawed with a wood hacksaw with fine teeth at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees. Direct docking is easier. To properly saw off a corner, the workpiece is placed in a miter box. Connect the prepared elements of the box with long self-tapping screws, having previously drilled holes.

• It is easier for an inexperienced person to install doors without a threshold, since only three elements will have to be connected. The shape of the box is made in the form of the letter “P”. The edges of the upper lintel are placed on the ends of the racks. Each joint is secured with two self-tapping screws.

• The sash is placed in the finished frame. Measure the gaps between the door and frame on three sides, keeping to the required 3 mm. The racks below will rest on the floor. The length is calculated so that there is a gap of 8–15 mm between the floor covering and the lower end of the sash.
• To install the threshold of an interior door, the frame is assembled from four elements. The lower jumper is inserted between the posts and then secured with self-tapping screws. The gap between the threshold and the end of the sash is maintained at 3 mm.

After the frame is made, the door leaf is laid. Having retreated 25 cm from above and below, on the hinge stand, as well as the end of the sash, mark the installation locations for the hinges. To prevent the fastening plates from protruding, recesses are selected in the wood using a chisel or milling cutter.

Two ways to install the box

Open way provides anchors. The frame is inserted into the opening. Displayed vertically and horizontally. All measurements are carried out with a level and a plumb line. Maintaining a gap of 10 to 40 mm, wooden wedges are driven between the frame and the walls. By knocking or loosening the spacers, the frame is perfectly level.

From the inside of the box, through holes with countersunk recesses are drilled in increments of 50–60 cm. Holes are made in the wall using a concrete drill. The anchors are screwed in so that the head is hidden inside the secret recess. After a level check, the gap between the wall and the frame is filled with foam. Secret holes are puttied and then painted over.

Second closed method Installation of the box involves the use of hangers used in the manufacture of plasterboard frames, or a special mounting system. The metal strip is screwed with self-tapping screws to the underside of the frame. The box is inserted into the interior opening, wedged with wooden wedges, the petals of the suspension are bent onto the wall, secured with self-tapping screws and plastic dowels.

Installation of additional equipment

When installing a door block in a deep interior opening, the frame is not able to cover the entire wall. If the width of the box is not enough, then use. Decorative strips are installed on the longitudinal groove of the frame, having previously lubricated the lock with glue. If the door frame does not provide a lock for the extensions, the planks are fixed through secret holes with self-tapping screws. The optimal fastening pitch is 60 cm.

Installation of door leaf

Before installing the door, the door leaf is equipped with fittings. There are different types and colors of canopies available in the market. The place for their fastening is determined before installing the box. For interior doors, it is popular to install butterfly awnings that do not require insertion.

Two hinges are installed on a light sash, leaving 25 cm at the top and bottom. The heavy leaf is reinforced in the center with a third canopy. With the open method of fixing the box, the anchors are positioned so that they do not interfere with screwing the hinges with self-tapping screws. If the installation of interior doors was carried out in a hidden way on hangers, the problem with the location of the fasteners disappears.

The gap between the end of the sash and the hinge post of the frame should be 6 mm. First, mark the place for fastening at the end of the sash. Use a chisel to select a recess under the mounting plate of the hinge. The canopies are screwed on with self-tapping screws.

The door leaf along with the hinges is inserted into the frame. Wedges are used to push the sash apart to create gaps around the perimeter. Places for making recesses are marked on the hinge stand. The canvas is removed from the frame, a recess is selected with a chisel, then the second halves of the canopies are screwed in with self-tapping screws.

The handle with the lock is installed at a height of 90 cm from the floor. The body of the locking fittings is applied to the sash at a measured height. Use a pencil to mark the location of the handle and outline the boundaries of the castle. At the end of the canvas, use drills or a chisel to select a recess. A through hole is drilled for the handle. The nest is treated with varnish, a lock is installed, the body is fixed with self-tapping screws, and then the handles are inserted. A sample is made on the box stand opposite the lock and a counter plate of the locking hardware is installed.

To install doors with your own hands without defects, the process of hanging the sash is carried out after the polyurethane foam has completely hardened.

Fastening platbands

The final installation of the door block is. Decorative strips are placed on both sides of the interior opening. sell wooden, plastic or MDF. The shape can be simple flat, beveled or curly. to the end of the interior frame with a locking connection, screwed with self-tapping screws or nailed. The planks can be glued, but the adjacent wall must be perfectly flat and finished with durable cladding.

To perform a simple installation of door trims, first attach a horizontal strip level. The edges are pre-sawed off at an angle of 45°. Vertical slats are installed from the floor. Mark a cutting line at the top at a similar angle. The joint is made as tight as possible. If a gap forms, putty is used. After hardening, the flaws are painted over.

Platbands can be joined at right angles. The top bar is inserted between the vertical elements or placed on top of the end.

Installation of the stop

A hinged interior door opened as children run and hits the wall with its handles. The decorative finish deteriorates and even the plaster crumbles. It helps to install a door stop that prevents the door from opening completely.

The stop is a barrel with a rubber nozzle. The limiter is installed after installing the door block and all finishing work. The interior door is opened to the desired position. The location of the stop is marked on the floor. Use an electric drill to drill a hole, drive in a fastening screw and tighten the stopper.

How to change the canvas?

Often during repairs, only replacement of the door leaf is required. The procedure is much simpler than installing an interior door from scratch.

• The old fabric is removed from the hinges. Awnings usually consist of two detachable halves. To remove the interior sash, it is enough to pry it open from below with a pry bar. If the axial rod is inserted from above in the hinges, the fabric will not be removed. First, a screwdriver is inserted under the head of the rod, then it is knocked out of the socket with hammer blows. Dismantling begins from the bottom loop. After removing the rods, the sash can be easily removed.
• Two canvases are compared in size, laid on top of each other. If the new fold is larger than the old one, mark the boundaries with a pencil. Excess sections are cut off with a hand-held circular saw. The cuts are adjusted with a plane and processed with a grinder.
• The door leaf, adjusted to size, is equipped with hinges, a lock, and a handle.
• Hanging on the hinges occurs in the reverse order.

If the new canvas has been adjusted, the cut points need to be masked. The paint material is selected to be similar in color or the entire canvas is completely repainted.