How to join laminate flooring between rooms. Laminate flooring without thresholds throughout the apartment. Cork filler as a replacement for the joining strip

When laying laminate flooring, it is often necessary to join it with another floor covering at the border of rooms or zones. Sometimes, in places where it is laid, heating or water supply pipes come out of the floor. Finally, joints between the floor and walls are inevitable.

Since laminate is subject to thermal expansion, its connection to other materials should not be rigid. In the same time, the joint must be sealed or covered from above so that it looks neat, and so that there is no gap left into which debris will get clogged.

Sealing joints between laminate flooring and other floor coverings

The need to join two types of laminate or laminate with other floor coverings usually arises in doorways, as well as in a room divided into zones. The width of the compensation gap at the joint of coatings is calculated according to the principle: 0.5-1.5 mm for each meter of joint length.

Joint of different types of laminate

The need to design a joint arises if:

• Laminate flooring with different locking systems is used
• A difference in the height of the coatings is formed
• Design joint, curved
• The podium or steps are covered with laminate
• The area of ​​the room exceeds 64 m² and the covering cannot be made continuous; an additional expansion joint is required

In these cases, they are used to decorate the joints. special connecting strips (sills, moldings). This is the optimal solution for laminate joints:

• There remains a gap for temperature fluctuations
• The threshold protects the ends of the laminate and closes the gap at the top, preventing debris from getting into it

Threshold strips vary in configuration and allow you to solve different problems:

• Direct– for sealing joints between coatings located on the same level
• Leveling- for connecting coatings with a small (up to 4 mm) height difference
• Multi-level- for joints with a significant difference in height (up to 2 cm), can be charcoal, round or more complex in shape
• Corner– for joints of mutually perpendicular coverings (steps, podiums)

They are made from different materials:

• Laminated, from pressed shavings, covered with a protective and decorative film. Usually matched to the tone of the laminate and allow you to make the joint as invisible as possible
• Solid wood- expensive, elite
• Metal, made of aluminum, steel, brass with anodized coating. These are the most durable overlays that can be used in high traffic areas, some of these products can also be curved to form curved joints
• Plastic(PVC) - flexible thresholds, ideal for decorating curved joints, are distinguished by a variety of colors. Affordable, but not durable
• Rubber are usually angular

The junction of laminate and tiles

For the joints of the laminate and tiles, you can use the same thresholds as for decorating the joints between two types of laminate, selecting them in accordance with the configuration of the joint. If the surfaces of the tile and laminate are at the same level, there is no height difference, you can create a joint without a threshold:

• If the length of the joint does not exceed 2 m and the width of the seam is 3 mm, it can be filled
• Longer and wider seams are filled elastic composition(silicone sealant, polyurethane foam, liquid plug)
• A long, even seam without changes in thickness is filled cork compensator, it is also permissible to use it with a slight difference in the height of the coatings

The technique of joining laminate and tiles is described in detail.

Joint between laminate and other floor coverings

Joints of laminate with parquet, linoleum usually closed with thresholds, often leveling or multi-level. Less commonly, the seam between the laminate and linoleum is filled with transparent silicone glue; this option is used if the coatings are on the same level and the cuts at the junction are perfectly even. It is necessary to stick masking tape along the edges so that the adhesive does not get on the surface of the coating.

If laminate and carpet are combined, a fairly rigid underlay is usually laid under the carpet, the thickness of which corresponds to the thickness of the laminate, and the carpet itself is laid overlapping the laminate. If they are joined, it is necessary to use a transitional multi-level threshold.

Installation of thresholds

Here are some types of thresholds according to installation methods:

• Two-piece T-shaped for hidden installation, fastened with screws (self-tapping screws)
• One-piece with herringbone dowels, the heads of which are inserted into the groove on the underside of the sill
• One-piece for open screw mounting, supplied with pre-drilled mounting holes and screws with decorative heads
• Z-shaped multi-level, with a zigzag leg, the foot of which is attached to the base with screws or glue
• Flexible brass or aluminum, with one-sided tab divided into many sections
• Flexible polymer two-piece, groove and tab
• Self-adhesive

Self-adhesive thresholds are usually used if the base is loose and screwing fasteners into it is problematic, as well as on top. Before installing them, the surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned and degreased, the protective coating must be removed from the bottom, the threshold must be applied in accordance with the markings and pressed well.

Two-piece planks with 2 legs are mounted in the following sequence:

1. The junction is marked
2. Holes with a diameter of 6 mm are drilled at the base on both sides of the seam in increments of 20-30 cm
3. Plastic dowels are driven into the holes
4. The mounting rail is installed in place and secured to the concrete base with self-tapping screws 60 mm long, to a wooden base - 45 mm
5. Floor coverings are laid on top of the legs, the seam between them should be wider than the mounting groove
6. The leg of the decorative strip is inserted into the mounting groove, and with light blows of a mallet it is driven into place. First, the bar is partially recessed along its entire length, with gradual advancement from one end to the other, then you need to repeat the operation, and only on the third pass hammer it in to its full depth

If open fastening thresholds are used, the floor coverings must be installed first., then a threshold is applied on top and markings are made, holes are drilled in the designated areas of the base, and dowels are installed in them. The threshold is put back in place and fixed with screws.

In a similar way, markings are carried out for one-piece thresholds with hidden dowels. The threshold is installed so that the dowels fit into the holes, and is nailed with a mallet.

It is best to use thresholds of the same brand as the laminate. Quick Step produces laminated and aluminum multifunctional thresholds, with which you can create joints between different coatings, including multi-level ones. Their decorative strip consists of several segments; by removing individual segments, you can change its configuration.

If a threshold with a zigzag leg (one leg) is installed, a coating of greater thickness is laid first. Then, next to it, a strip is attached with self-tapping screws or glue with the paw in the direction opposite to the laid covering. A thinner coating is laid on top of the foot. The upper part of the plank, with careful blows of a hammer in 3 steps, is brought down to the required height so that its edges press both mating coatings.

To seal a curved joint, you must first make a marking on the floor, according to which the profile of the flexible threshold is bent. The metal threshold can be bent using a special tool, as well as manually, resting on the knee.

The polymer groove, which is installed in the mounting seam, is bent during installation and fixed to the base with screws (dowels are first inserted into the holes). The upper, decorative part of the plastic threshold acquires plasticity when heated and retains its given shape after cooling. You can soften the insert with a hair dryer or by placing it in water heated to 50-70° for 15-20 minutes. The insert is gradually pressed into the groove and pressed carefully.

Joint of laminate with vertical surfaces

At the junction of the laminate with the wall
baseboard is installed. It serves a dual function:

• Covers the expansion gap
• Decorates the joint, giving the atmosphere completeness

Also inside the hollow baseboard there may be a box for hidden wiring.

Under no circumstances should the plinth be attached to the laminate, only to the wall, and a small gap should remain between its lower edge and the surface of the laminate so that nothing interferes with the thermal expansion of the floating coating.

MDF plinths go well with laminate. If the walls are smooth, you can use a traditional wooden baseboard, securing it with self-tapping screws or using glue. If the walls have significant curvature, a flexible plastic plinth is suitable, which is attached with clips or “petals” to a base screwed to the wall with self-tapping screws.

The joints of the laminate with columns and other architectural elements are also decorated with plinths or special overlays of a suitable shape.
If a communication pipe comes out of the floor where the laminate is laid, you need to cut a hole in the panel according to the template, leaving a compensation gap of 10-15 mm.

After laying the laminate, this gap is closed with a special decorative split overlay of a suitable color and shape. If the shape or location of the pipe(s) does not allow the use of liners, the gap can be filled with silicone sealant.

Video

Installation of different types of aluminum thresholds

Sealing the joint between laminate and tiles with a flexible thermoplastic threshold

Finishing laminate joints with Quick-Step components. Installation of thresholds, pipe covers, plinths.

Bottom line

The joints of the laminate with other coatings must be sealed in such a way that there is still the possibility of its thermal expansion. Elastic joint fillers (sealants) and cork expansion joints are suitable for these purposes, but in most cases the seam is covered on top with a decorative threshold of a suitable configuration. There are thresholds that allow you to join coatings with height differences.

The junctions of the laminate with walls, columns and other architectural elements are decorated with a plinth, and it must be attached to a vertical surface. The joints of the laminate with communication pipes are usually covered with special decorative rosette covers.

Typically, the biggest challenge when installing flooring is the joint between the laminate and the laminate. This is due to the fact that the joint must be neat so that it does not interfere with free movement and is invisible. Next, we'll look at how to deal with this complexity.

It must be said that the design of joints causes difficulty only for those who are doing their own installation for the first time. Such little things have been thought out by specialists for a long time, so we can only use ready-made solutions. In this case, such a solution is connecting strips.

Making joints using planks, or in other words, a locking connection, turns out to be quite tight, as a result of which the tiles cannot move freely relative to each other when humidity changes or temperature changes in the room.

When the need for connection arises

First of all, let's consider in what cases this connection may be needed. It should be understood that we are not talking about joining the tiles during assembly, but about those cases when the tiles need to be connected to previously laid material, for which you have to use a connecting profile for the laminate.

So, the need for this operation may arise in the following cases:

• The connection of laminate flooring between rooms, which is most often done in the passage.
• When finishing large areas. In this case, the joints serve as damper gaps.
• When laying different types of material with mismatched locks in one room.
• If it is necessary to finish steps or other differences in floor level.

Advice! By using different materials, for example, different in color, you can create zoning in one room.

When purchasing a coating, you can ask the seller in advance whether there are available the strips that are necessary to design the joints in your particular case. It should be borne in mind that they may differ in both shape and material.

Profile form

Connecting strips, depending on their purpose, can be as follows:

• Straight profiles– used when making joints between laminate and laminate or other floor coverings, for example, ceramic tiles.
• Transition profiles– located at different levels.
• Corner profiles– used when designing joints of perpendicular surfaces on podiums and stairs finished with this material.
• Final profile– used to frame open edges of flooring material.

The above profiles serve not only a decorative function. As mentioned above, the installation instructions for this coating require expansion joints. Joining strips make these seams hidden.

Note! Expansion joints must be made every 7-8 meters. Otherwise, the coating will have nowhere to expand, causing it to bulge at the joints.

The photo shows a damaged coating due to the lack of expansion joints

Profile materials

Connecting strips can be made from the following materials:

• Laminated– made of pressed wood fiber and covered with decorating film. The pattern is selected in accordance with the coating pattern. Since it is necessary to connect the covering between rooms as discreetly as possible, the product is usually used in doorways.
• Metal– usually made of brass, aluminum or stainless steel. Such planks are characterized by increased strength, so they are used in high-traffic areas.
• Plastic- These are flexible and soft profiles, therefore they are usually used when making curved joints. The main advantage of these products is their low price and variety of colors. However, their service life is relatively short.
• Rubber- usually corner profiles that are used on stairs to ensure safety of movement.

Installation of connecting strips

All of the above connecting elements are sold complete with a mounting rail designed for hidden installation.

The connection is made as follows:

• The mounting rail is fixed to the base using glue or screws. The second option is more preferable, as it allows you to re-install the bar and also provides greater strength.
• Then a second covering is spread from the batten.
• After this, a decorative strip is installed in the fastening strip, which is latched with light blows of a hammer through a wooden block.

In the same way, you can combine this material with tiled floor tiles or some other covering. You can clearly see and learn how to connect laminate flooring between rooms from the video below.

Advice! Metal profiles can be installed in an open manner using self-tapping screws or dowels. The holes for them are made in production.

Conclusion

As a rule, the overall impression of the quality of repairs and interiors is largely formed by such little things as the design of corners, joints and transitions. Therefore, the execution of connections must be treated no less responsibly than the installation of the flooring material itself. The information presented above will help you cope with this work quickly and efficiently.

When connecting two materials that are different in texture and texture, it is necessary to somehow design the place where they are connected. In this article we will discuss how to beautifully join laminate and tiles. The methods are different, as are the results.

Where could there be a joint and how best to design it?

In a modern house or apartment, different floor coverings are used. At the places where they are connected, differences in height often form due to different thicknesses of the coating. You can make such a transition beautifully and reliably only by knowing what and how to do. Most often you have to join tiles and laminate. These are the two most popular types of flooring for various purposes. The joint between tiles and laminate occurs in two places:

As you already understand, there are two ways to make a joint between laminate and tiles - with and without a threshold. The first requires high quality cutting of the tiles, an equal gap between the two materials throughout the entire seam. Only in this case you get a decent result. The second one is simpler to perform and does not require special precision when cutting material or special skills when performing it. But it looks a little rough.

Methods of docking without a threshold

When joining tiles and laminate flooring without a threshold, you first need to solve the problem of height difference: due to the adhesive layer, the tile can be higher. Only after this can you start working. Also, the joint will look good if it is carefully processed, the gap will be even.

If two different materials are joined - ceramics and laminate - they cannot be placed close to each other without a gap. When temperature or humidity changes, they can increase in size (laminate suffers more from this). The presence of a gap prevents the problem - it allows it to change in size without compromising the integrity of the coating. When joining laminate and tiles without a threshold, this gap is filled with a suitable elastic material.

Whatever material is used for sealing, the edge of the laminate adjacent to it must be treated with a protective compound that prevents moisture absorption. Most often, a sealant is used for this. Better is silicone, which, after drying, does not lose elasticity and does not turn yellow over time.

Cork compensator

A cork expansion joint can be placed between the tiles and the laminate. This is a thin strip of cork, which is painted on one side and covered with a layer of protective varnish or finished with a layer of veneer. The second option has a larger wood surface; you can choose a color that is very similar to your floor covering. But it is used more often for joining parquet floors - it costs a lot.

Dimensions

In addition to the fact that the “face” of the cork expansion joint is finished with different materials, it can be of different shapes: with or without chamfers of different types. In addition, sizes may vary:

A standard length cork expansion joint is only good if the joint is under the door. Then its length is sufficient. In other situations, you either have to splice or order.

Installation

Install a cork expansion joint at the junction of tiles and laminate when laying the flooring. When one type has already been laid, and the second will only be laid. First of all, if it is necessary to trim the height of the cork, it is not always possible to choose the ideal option. Therefore, we carefully cut off the excess with a sharp knife.

More preparatory work - finishing the laid edge. We remind you once again that it must be smooth and well processed. Most often, the edge is sanded with sandpaper, smoothing out the cutting marks.

The cork expansion joint is mounted using glue, preferably for wood. The installation site is thoroughly cleaned and degreased beforehand. The following is the process:

If everything is done correctly, you get a neat, unobtrusive seam. What’s good is that you can design both straight and curved joints this way.

Grout for joints

If the materials have already been laid, the joint between the laminate and tiles can either be formed with a threshold or filled with tile grout. We'll talk about thresholds later, but now let's discuss how to use grout.

The edges of the laminate must be coated with silicone. It can also fill the joint by about 2/3. When the silicone dries, fill the remaining space with diluted joint grout, level it and wait until it dries.

A simple and effective way. But only if the edges are processed with high quality. For greater color stability and easier maintenance, it is better to coat the seam with colorless varnish.

Cork sealant

You can also seal the joint between laminate and tile using cork sealant. It itself is a sealant, so this is the only option in which the cut of the laminate does not need to be protected from moisture. Another plus is that the dried composition has the color of cork wood - light brown. If it suits you, you won't have to worry about painting it.

Cork sealant is a mixture of crushed cork tree bark and a water-based binder. Without dyes, after drying it has the color of cork - light brown. There are palettes painted in primary colors. Available in polyethylene tubes, it can be applied using a closed gun (with a container) or a spatula. Can be used to fill joints in floor coverings.

When using this composition, you will most likely have to use a spatula. Therefore, we stick masking tape on both sides of the seam. We clean the seam itself and remove dust. You can work at temperatures above +5°C.

It’s easy to seal the joint between tile and laminate with cork sealant:

After drying, we have a ready-to-use joint between tile and laminate. The only drawback is that the base color does not suit everyone. And one more thing - you need to carefully and evenly distribute it immediately after application. Then it will not be possible to align or correct it.

Using thresholds

Making a joint between laminate and tile using thresholds makes sense in three cases. The first is when the joint is made under the door. In this case, the presence of a threshold is logical and “does not hurt the eyes.” The second option is if there is a difference in height between the two materials being joined. There is simply no other way out.

And the third case. When the hallway has tiles next to it, and then there is laminate. Even if their levels coincide, it is better to put a threshold here. It rises slightly above the finish and will trap sand and debris that inevitably gets carried in by shoes. This is the option when you can close your eyes to some aesthetic imperfection.

Types of thresholds for joining materials

There are the following thresholds that can be used to close the joint between laminate and tiles:

It just seems like there are few options. There are all these thresholds in different sizes and colors, with different fixation systems. There are a lot of them in big stores.

Installation of flexible PVC profile

As already mentioned, a flexible PVC joining profile consists of a base and a decorative lining, which is held on it due to elastic force. It must be installed after the tiles have been laid, but before installing the laminate.

First, a base is installed along the cut of the laid tile. It is attached to dowels or self-tapping screws. Choose fasteners with flat heads so that when screwed in, they hardly protrude and do not interfere with installing the trim.

The installation process is as follows:

Using a flexible PVC profile, the joint between laminate and tiles is easy to seal. Outwardly, of course, not everyone likes it, but the installation is simple.

Video on installing thresholds at the junction of laminate and tiles/porcelain tiles

I think everyone knows what laminate is. This material is very popular now. Excellent appearance and a very affordable price - these are the main factors that people take into account when choosing this flooring for their home or apartment. How to lay laminate- We’ll try to figure this out now.

As usual, we start with surface preparation. First, our subfloor needs to be examined for any irregularities. In general, manufacturers allow unevenness of up to 2 mm per meter of floor area. Those. You take a flat strip (level, usually) 1 meter long and apply it to the floor in different places and in different directions, determining the presence of depressions and bumps.

Differences in concrete floors are leveled using a thin screed made from self-leveling self-leveling mixtures. If you have uneven plank floors, it is advisable to put chipboard or plywood on them. Well suited for laying laminate flooring. It is important to understand here that the more uneven the base, the greater the likelihood of gaps appearing between the laminate panels. When walking on the floor in uneven areas, the panels bend relative to each other, and the locking joints gradually wear out. And the lower the quality of the laminate itself, the faster the cracks will appear.

The next step is to lay the underlayment. Its thickness is usually from 2 to 4 mm. There is no point in making the backing thicker; this will again lead to wear of the locks. The choice of substrates is now very diverse. The cheapest are those made from polyethylene foam (penofol, polyfom, isolon and many others).

Cork substrates are more environmentally friendly, but also more expensive. There are substrates made of extruded polystyrene foam, made in the form of rectangular sheets. One side is grooved. When laying it should be facing down.

In general, the choice is large, and moreover, it is constantly replenished. To be honest, I can’t advise you on what to choose. I never felt any noticeable difference. As usual, every manufacturer has the best product. I will only say that the service life of all of the above types of substrates is much higher than that of the laminate itself, so any of them is quite acceptable.

When laying laminate flooring on a concrete base, you need to additionally spread waterproofing under the substrate. This could be, for example, a simple polyethylene film 0.2 mm thick or any other waterproofing film.

Before laying, the laminate must lie in the room for at least 2 days so that it adapts to the temperature and humidity of the room. It is recommended to lay it along the direction of the sun's rays. When laid crosswise, the joints create small shadows and they become a little more noticeable, spoiling the integrity of the appearance.

In general, there are two ways to install laminate:

• adhesive;
• castle

The adhesive installation method has one good advantage - the joints are reliably protected from moisture penetration. Due to this, the service life of the coating increases. But the installation process itself is more complex and time-consuming (compared to the locking process), and there are additional costs for glue. In rooms where a heated floor system is installed, it is not recommended to use this method.

Installation using the adhesive method involves applying a special water-repellent glue to the ends of the panels (sold together with the laminate). Under no circumstances should you use water-based glue (such as PVA). This will lead to swelling of the joints. The glue is applied to the groove of the panel along the entire length. The groove is then mated to the tenon of the previously laid panel. The connection is sealed with light blows of a hammer through a wooden block. Excess glue is wiped off with a damp cloth.

After laying 3 rows of panels, it is better to give the glue a couple of hours to dry. Then we lay the floor to the end. You can start using the coating 10-12 hours after installation.

The adhesive installation method is now used less and less. There is practically no such laminate left on sale. It is being forced out of the market by interlocking panels. This is due to the ease of installation of the latter. Moreover, the interlocking laminate coating can even be disassembled without damaging the panels and, for example, moved to another room. Although, to be honest, I have never heard of anyone doing this.

Locks from all laminate manufacturers have their own characteristics and differences. But in general, they can all be divided into 2 groups: Click And Lock.

When laying laminate with locks like Lock one panel is driven into another using a hammer. Thanks to special combs, the tenon is securely fixed in the groove without the use of glue.

Locks type Click appeared later and are considered to be of higher quality and wear-resistant. They are mounted by inserting one panel into another at an angle (30-45º). Then it is pressed to the floor and the lock latches. On my own behalf, I’ll add that you still have to hammer the laminate with a hammer, although the manufacturers don’t write about this in the instructions.

The installation sequence for all types of laminate described above is almost the same. Laying begins from the left corner of the room. Before laying the 1st row, you need to measure the width of the room and calculate how wide the last row will be. Otherwise, it may turn out that you cover the entire room and at the end there will be a gap of 2-3 cm along the wall. You cannot close it with a plinth, and such a narrow strip of laminate will not hold well. The width should be at least 5 cm. To do this, the panels of the first row will need to be cut to length.

It is necessary to leave a gap between the laminate and the walls for thermal expansion. Usually it is made about 1 cm. The main thing is that it is then covered with a plinth.

So we assemble the first row of laminate from left to right. The rightmost panel basically always needs to be trimmed (don't forget the gaps). You can start the next row with the remaining piece, this way we get the necessary seam spacing. It is recommended that this distance be at least 30 cm.

Having completed the first row between the laminate and the walls, we insert wedges to provide the necessary gap, while ensuring that the row is straight. True, I do it myself a little differently. When hammering the panels of subsequent rows with a hammer, the wedges often fly out, the straightness of the row is disrupted, and in general it is inconvenient. Therefore, I fix the first row with self-tapping screws and washers (if we are laying on a wooden floor) or dowel-nails with washers (if the floor is concrete). I screw them in the corners and at the joints of the panels of the first row. After finishing installing the laminate, I make sure to unscrew it.

When laying laminate using the adhesive method and with drive-in locks such as Lock Each subsequent panel is first joined along the long edge, then along the end.

When laying laminate with a lock type Click First, a whole row of panels is assembled and then it is completely inserted into the previous one. If the room is large, it is inconvenient to do this alone; it is better to do it together.

When installing, it is convenient to use a special set of tools to tamp laminate panels. If this is not available, knock the laminate through a piece of panel (10-15 cm), inserting it into the groove with a tenon. When installing the rightmost panels of the row and the entire last row, you can push it away from the wall with a small nail puller, only carefully, through the pads, so as not to damage the walls and laminate.

After completing the installation, you need to install the skirting boards, and they can only be attached to the wall, and not to the floor.

When arranging a home, an important step is working with the floors. Different materials are placed on them. Today the most common laminate. Because it has many advantages. The main ones are attractive

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Appearance and long service life. Its choice is quite rich, so you can choose one to suit every taste and any interior. The room in which laminate flooring is laid will be cozy, comfortable and beautiful.

Connecting laminate to laminate can be done in different ways

Laying this coating is quite a complex job and must be done correctly. Otherwise, the laminate will look poor quality and its service life will be reduced. It is very important not only to think through the basic installation work, but also additional ones. Thus, almost all floor coverings form joints that need to be hidden. They mainly appear at the intersection of different rooms. After all, each of them has its own coating.

The connection between laminate and laminate is not quite simple. Since it must be done carefully, so that it does not form a tubercle that will create obstacles for the movement of people. In addition, it should be completely invisible. Otherwise, the room will not only be uncomfortable, but the view will deteriorate.

Connections: when is it necessary?

Experience shows that specialists can handle this work quickly and efficiently. Basically, problems arise when a person does all the work independently. This is explained simply. He does not have the necessary experience and skills. That's why it's more difficult for him. But you can always take advantage of the advice and tips of professionals who have already taken into account and thought through everything a long time ago.

Making connections is very important when arranging the floor. It allows you to firmly fasten the covering strips; as a result, they will not be able to move under mechanical stress and other impact factors. This laminate will last much longer.

When making connections, it is important to understand that these are not the joints that were created between the tiles when they were laid, but those that were formed with material that was laid a long time ago. Also, there are a number of cases when this procedure is necessary. These include:

• The connection that was created between the rooms;
• When laying flooring in a room with a large area;
• Laying different materials in one room. It can be a laminate, which differs in color, appearance, etc. This is mainly done for zoning;
• When finishing steps, thresholds and other differences that exist on the floor.

Laminate to laminate connections: methods

The connection can be made in different ways. The most common is the use of planks. They form the connection between the laminate interlocks. You can purchase them in the same store where you buy the main material. It is worth considering their differences. They come in different shapes and materials.

So, they distinguish straight, transitional, angular and final. The first ones are used when arranging connections between laminate and laminate or with another coating. For example, when making a connection between tiles and laminate. If the joint was formed due to a difference in floor levels, then it is better to use transition strips. Corner ones are used when working with steps or when arranging podiums. Once the base covering has been installed, opening edges will appear. They do not look aesthetically pleasing, so they need to be hidden. For this purpose, finishing profiles are used.

These additional materials serve not only as decoration. They will also make all expansion seams hidden.

Laminate interlocking: plank materials

The strips that are used to make connections are made from different materials. They can be laminated, that is, made from wood and covered with a special film on top, which serves as decoration. The choice of such profiles is quite large. It allows you to choose the one that will best suit the main coating and will not be noticeable after installation. Basically, such connections are made in the doorway.

Another version of profiles is made from metal. Mostly brass or aluminum is used for these works. They are very durable, so they are recommended for use in places with high traffic.

You can also use plastic profiles. They are characterized by increased flexibility and softness. Therefore, they are suitable for uneven joints. In addition to these advantages, this material has a low cost and a large selection of shades. But its service life is significantly shorter, which is a disadvantage.

Rubber profiles are better suited for decorating corners. In addition to their main functions, they will make movement much safer.

Types of laminate connections

There are different types of connections. The most common castle. It firmly fixes the panels. Even with significant mechanical stress during operation, they do not change their position. Moreover, such a connection can be disassembled and assembled without additional effort. In this case, so-called click locks are used. They can be reused up to five times.

Another advantage of such connections is that it has a high tightness rating. So, its properties are not impaired at high humidity. This does not affect the disassembly process in any way. It goes easily and simply.

An adhesive connection is also used. But this method is rare, it is not very practical, so over time it fades into the background, giving way to new methods of fastening. To make this type of lock, glue is used, which is used to lubricate the strips and seal them with a hammer.

This method is not very practical. Since it does not allow replacing one of the laminate boards or performing general repairs if necessary. And the process of removing floor coverings is quite complex and lengthy. In addition, low mobility and flexibility of the joints over time can cause it to break.

Above all, it follows that it is necessary to take a responsible approach to the basic work of laying the floor covering, but also to additional ones, such as connections.