How to cut roses in summer. How to remove faded rose inflorescences

13.06.2019

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Whatever type of rose pruning you perform (preventive, thinning, shaping or rejuvenating), you must do it in accordance with certain rules so as not to harm the plants. For each season, the requirements for pruning roses vary slightly, but there are general provisions, which must be strictly observed. You will learn about the main ones below.

When is the best time to prune roses and types of spring pruning (with photo)

Pruning is one of the important agrotechnical techniques for growing roses. The decorative appearance of plants, the splendor of their flowering, the intensity of damage by pests and diseases, and, finally, their durability depend on pruning.

For each group there are specific rules for pruning roses, but there are also general provisions that are inherent in all groups to one degree or another.

When is the best time to prune roses and how to do it correctly? In the spring, pruning of roses is carried out for flowering, in the summer - for re-blooming and maintaining the shape of the bush. Autumn pruning of roses is carried out for winter shelter.

There are four types spring pruning roses: preventive, thinning, shaping and rejuvenating.

Preventative pruning is done in early spring to eliminate fungal diseases.

Spring. After removing the cover, when the buds swelling on the shoots are clearly visible, the bushes are thinned. It consists of removing dying and unnecessary branches and shoots that are not important for flowering. As a result of removing excess shoots, the plant has more nutrients will direct it to those shoots that can use them with great effect for flowering.

At the same time, the remaining shoots are shortened in order to awaken the lower buds to grow, which ensure flowering. In this case, we give the plant the opportunity to direct nutrients to the development of flowers to achieve the highest quality.

The cuts must be immediately covered with garden varnish, then moisture will not be retained on them, and the risk of various infections entering through fresh wounds will be reduced.

How to prune roses correctly so as not to damage the bushes? When working, avoid flattening and injuring plant tissues, and do not allow the bark to break.

There are three types of shaping pruning: strong, medium and weak. With strong pruning, 1-2 well-developed buds are left on the shoot, with medium pruning - 3-6, with weak pruning - only the tips of the shoots are removed.

As a rule, strong pruning is used for polyanthus and miniature roses, medium - for hybrid tea, floribunda and grandiflora groups, weak - for park and climbing roses.

Look at the photo - when pruning roses in spring, it is important to respect the shape of the bush and the position of the buds from which new shoots will come:

The bud should look outward, then the bush will be beautiful and not thickened in the center, it will hurt less, since it is well lit by the sun and blown by the breeze.

Remember, dry, damaged and thin branches are removed first, leaving only a few good, strong shoots. They are shortened to the 3rd, 4th or 5th bud. The result should be stems from 10 to 25 cm in height.

Most varieties grown by gardeners require short pruning. They tolerate heavy pruning without any damage to their livelihoods.

Hybrid tea varieties - small-flowered and large-flowered polyanthus and low-growing varieties other groups.

Medium and less short pruning is sufficient remontant varieties(with the exception of undersized ones, which are also pruned short) and some vigorous varieties of hybrid tea and other groups.

When carrying out spring pruning of roses of all varieties, it is necessary to thin out the bushes. At the same time, weak, deformed (unnaturally twisted), broken, dying shoots, as well as those with signs of damage, are completely removed. They are cut off at the very base, leaving no stumps. Damaged stems are shortened to healthy tissue (with a white core).

Immediately after spring pruning, preventive spraying is carried out against harmful organisms, if the buds are dormant, with copper or iron sulfate (100-150 g per 10 liters of water), if a green cone has formed (the buds have started to grow) - 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (“Abiga-Pik”, “Oxychom”, “Copper Oxychloride”, etc.).

The video “Pruning roses in summer” will help you better understand the technology of the process:

Cut roses for summer pruning

Summer. All roses tend to develop a lot of extra weak shoots. Among them there are “blind”, not flower bearers. Leaving all the shoots on the bush in the summer is useless and even harmful, as they lead to excessive thickening of the bush. At the beginning of summer, it is necessary to cut into rings (to the base) shoots directed into the bush, underdeveloped and “blind”.

If the so-called blind shoot is cut off above the nearest leaf where there is a healthy eye, a new shoot will later grow from it, capable of flowering.

Cut roses:

IN open ground: You should not cut more than two flowers from one bush at a time, so as not to weaken the plant. The flowering of bushes and the quality of flowers directly depend on how correctly the cut is made. You cannot cut more than two flowers from a bush at the same time. It is necessary to leave 2-4 nodes at the base of the peduncle and make the cut above a well-developed bud looking outward. Then you can hope for a quick resumption of growth and repeated flowering.
You cannot cut flowers from young one-year-old bushes, as well as from weak or diseased plants.
To keep cut roses fresh in the vase longer, it is better to cut them early in the morning or in the evening; roses cut during the day fade faster.
You need to cut the stems obliquely with sharp pruners; enters the stem with an oblique cut more water, which helps to prolong their life in the cut.
It is necessary to cut roses in summer in colored buds; In spring and summer, buds with bent outer petals are cut off (almost half-opened).
Rose varieties with a goblet-shaped flower are cut when the petals have opened slightly, the color has already appeared, but the bud is still hard.
Dense varieties are cut when the buds are almost ready to bloom and the petals are slightly unfolded; if they are cut earlier, they do not bloom well in water, lose color (turn blue) and quickly disappear.
Cut roses are very sensitive to water purity. The bacteria and fungi contained in it clog the vessels in the stems and lead to a loss of quality. You can disinfect water citric acid(0.5 g per 1 l).
For good preservation of roses in a vase bottom part At least 10 cm of stems are cleared of leaves. It is not recommended to remove thorns - this reduces the quality of flowers and shortens their life.
Acidifying the water with citric acid will prolong the life of roses in a vase. Useful in this regard: a lump of sugar, an aspirin tablet, a faint pink solution of potassium permanganate or a piece of charcoal.

Many varieties hybrid tea roses form several buds on the shoots. To get for cutting large flower, only one bud is left, the most developed one is the central one, the others are removed. A lush and long-flowering bush will be obtained if the buds on it are not touched, but only the fading, fading and crumbling flowers are removed.

At the same time, remember that excessive removal of flowering shoots leads to a general weakening of the above-ground part, as a result of which root shoots (rose hips) develop.

Formation of the young, first time flowering bush roses are necessary Special attention. Flowering of the bush in the first year should be minimal. Leave no more than 1-2 flowers on the plant. Remove the rest when the bud appears. Flowering shoots should be arranged symmetrically, alternating with non-flowering ones.

Only in this case is a uniform distribution of nutrients achieved and, therefore, uniform development and formation of the bush.

In the video “Pruning roses in summer” you can see all the subtleties of the process:

Rules for autumn pruning of roses

Autumn. Since the bulk of the roses are winter period have to be covered (with the exception of ground cover and park cover), autumn pruning comes down to shortening and removing part of the shoots so that shelter can be installed above the bushes.

How to properly prune roses in the fall, if for the winter you decide to limit yourself to just hilling them? Long branches still need to be trimmed, leaving no more than 40-45 cm. Otherwise, wet snow or icing can cause the bushes to break (fall apart) at the base.

The video “Pruning roses in autumn” shows how to do it correctly:

What could be more beautiful than blooming roses? In every garden - small, spacious - roses create an atmosphere of romance, fabulousness and discreet luxury. Roses look spectacular both in a flowerbed and in individual plantings.

But for roses to bloom luxuriously and please the eye, you need to take care of them. One of the main aspects of caring for these beauties is correct pruning, and it should be carried out regularly and professionally.

By pruning roses, we determine the number of young shoots, therefore, we create conditions for the formation of a large number of young shoots.

We also send the power of the plant to its development, we influence lush flowering and extend life expectancy. Therefore, proper pruning of roses is very important. Pruning roses is not a complicated procedure, but different groups require a specific approach.

Rose pruning period

The best time to prune roses is spring. Forsythia blooms can tell you when to reach for the pruning shears. As soon as the forsythia is covered with golden flowers, and the buds at the bottom of the rose bushes begin to swell, then you can start pruning. Somewhere at the end of April.

If you prune roses earlier, then during frosts the cut shoots will freeze. Then the lush bloom of the rose will come later. If you delay pruning, the rose will waste its energy on growing new foliage and shoots. As a result, the plant will be weak and the flowering will not be lush.

Wild shoots, which often appear below the grafting, are cut off. To do this, you need to expose the root collar and tear it off at the base.

When pruning roses in summer, you need to remove faded flowers, thus ensuring re-blooming. In autumn, it is necessary to trim overgrown rose bushes and remove branches affected by fungi.

But the main pruning of roses is carried out, as noted earlier, in the spring, when it is clear which branches have not overwintered and which have swollen buds.

Basic rules for pruning roses

First of all, when pruning roses, you need to take into account which shoots the plant produces flowers on: last year’s shoots or this year’s shoots. Next, you should clearly know what you want from this pruning: early and abundant flowering, or a certain shape bush.

Exist general rules that need to be done.

You need to work with a sharply sharpened tool (garden knife, pruning shears, saw) so as not to make torn cuts. The instrument must be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected.

It is necessary to wash it in boiling water and treat the blade disinfectant, for example, alcohol. Because with each cut, pathogens of various diseases stick to garden tools and may be transferred to other plants.

Old shoots differ from young ones in the color of their bark.

It is necessary to remove all old, weak, diseased, dead, and inward shoots.

Rose shoots are pruned above the bud. Buds are the buds of shoots that form in the axils of the leaves. On old branches these are dormant buds that wake up immediately after pruning.

Pruning species of bush roses

Shrub roses do not require constant pruning. Species bush roses form flowers on last year's shoots, so they need last year's branches for lush flowering.

Every few years, the oldest shoots are removed to rejuvenate the bush. Shoots should be trimmed close to the ground to stimulate the growth of young shoots. Trimming old shoots at the top of the bush will result in bare growth. If bush roses are not pruned at all, the bushes will age prematurely.

Pruning ground cover roses

These roses are not pruned. Remove frozen, broken shoots. To rejuvenate the bush, it is necessary to carry out radical pruning 5 years after planting.

Pruning hybrid tea roses and floribunda roses

This group is united by the most famous roses; for them, spring pruning is vital. Due to spring pruning, roses develop flower shoots, and they begin to bloom in the same year.

The density of rose pruning depends on the vigor of certain varieties. In low-growing varieties, 4 buds are left on the main shoot, and in vigorous-growing roses, 7 buds are left. The more pruning your floribunda roses are, the larger the new flowering growth will be.

Therefore, it is necessary to shorten the shoots of weak-growing varieties so that new ones grow better. For miniature roses, shoots can be trimmed to 10 cm, leaving the top bud.

Before pruning, it is necessary to remove the mound of earth that protected the grafting site in winter. Remove old branches as well.

Pruning bush roses

English roses are cut to 1/3 of their length. Shrub roses should have an even combination of annual, biennial, and perennial shoots.

Pruning repeat blooming climbing roses

Very beautiful re blooming roses require annual pruning. Remove shoots growing in the wrong direction. To stimulate lush flowering of roses, side shoots are shortened. To rejuvenate old roses, shoots that are older than 6 years are completely removed.

How to prune once-blooming climbing roses

These roses include ramblers. They grow very quickly, the shoots of these roses grow up to 10 meters. With such a size, it is very difficult to trim. As a rule, these roses do not need pruning.

Pruning of climbing roses is carried out in the summer, immediately after flowering. Faded shoots are shortened by 20 cm.

How to prune standard roses

These roses are grafted onto a standard. The purpose of pruning a standard rose is to give the crown a beautiful, neat appearance. To achieve this, the bush is cut into 3 buds and the shoots growing inwards are removed.

For roses on medium and tall boles, pruning is carried out depending on garden group and grafted variety. Cascading and drooping standard roses thin out a little. Also remove any growth that grows from the roots.

The magnificent flowering of the rose has its time, after which the shoots are crowned with fruits in the spirit of a rose hip. If you don’t interfere with the natural course of things, rose bushes will remain there until autumn. But it’s worth shortening the flower shoots and, lo and behold, after some time they grow back. A little later, luxurious flowers appear on them again, taking us back to the beginning of summer.

Why prune roses after flowering?

After the rose blooms, it is necessary to trim, or rather, shorten the shoot on which there was a flower or a flower cluster. As a result, the plant will switch from the fruit formation program to the regeneration program. “Spent” inflorescences left on the bush look ugly, so they are cut off before mid-July and early August.

Rose fruits are left for the winter, but in summer it is better to cut them off - they look too sloppy

From a dormant bud located at the base of the leaf, a new flowering shoot will begin to grow. A second, but artificially induced, wave of flowering will begin. The cut is made above the outer bud. Sometimes they talk about a cut above a leaf - this is the same thing as above a bud, because it is located at the base of the leaf. The cut location should be approximately 5 mm above the bud (or leaf petiole).

A cut above the lateral outer bud prevents thickening of the bush

This technique improves ventilation of the bush and prevents fungal diseases. The bush becomes more luxuriant, the shoots do not get tangled, the flowers do not rub against each other and the petals do not fly off prematurely.

Thickening shoots will grow from the lateral internal buds, directed into the bush

Blind shoots that for some reason do not have a growth bud at the end are also shortened.

In this blind shoot, the growth bud is damaged by the pest, so this shoot has no growth prospects

They grow to a certain length and stop developing. Such branches are shortened above the first outer lateral bud located below.

The blind shoot is cut off above the first developed lateral bud

To identify blind shoots, the bush is carefully sorted branch by branch. On some types of roses, the terminal buds are large, and on others they are small, so they may not be immediately noticeable.

These shoots have apical buds

There are several types of roses, differing in the type of flowering. Depending on this, the shoot is shortened to different heights.

Hybrid tea roses

This species is characterized by long stems, usually ending in one flower (although there are varieties with racemes). There are no side branches on the shoots.

Tea roses and floribunda roses are pruned above the 3rd or 4th leaf from the bottom.

The location of the cut is determined by moving upward from the base of the shoot - the cut is made above the 3rd or 4th leaf.

Although hybrid tea roses and floribundas are pruned low, new shoots have time to grow and bloom

Floribundas bloom like hybrid teas, but not with one flower, but with a brush. Both types are cut according to the same pattern.

The floribunda rose is also pruned low.

Video: pruning hybrid tea roses

Features of pruning climbing roses

The order of climbing roses consists of two main types - ramblers and climbing roses, or climbers. Without getting into the jungle of classification of both, let’s look at typical pruning for each species.

Roses Rambler

In climbing rambler roses, the first flowers open on last year's side shoots, after which the current year's shoots take over the baton. Thus, flowering is continuous.

Ramblers are great for decorating walls at home

Pruning is done only on last year's shoots: the cut is made above 5–6 leaves below the dry inflorescence. The shoots of the current year are left to bloom, form fruits, in a word, ripen. To enhance the formation of lateral flower-bearing branches, the top of the young lash can be pinched 5–7 cm.

Video: pruning a climbing rose rambler

Climbers

Climber roses have shoots 3 m or more long, covered with large single flowers or flower racemes along the entire length.

Excellent climbers - neither a word nor a pen can describe them

Summer pruning consists of shortening the main shoot by 1/3 of its length, which promotes branching and re-blooming. Dry inflorescences are removed from the remaining shoot.

Escapes climbing rose shorten and remove dried flowers

Proper completion of pruning - fertilizing

After pruning, the rose needs to be fed. To do this, use the following options:

special fertilizer in accordance with the instructions;
herbal infusion - 1–2 liters of infusion per 10 liters of water;
fermented chicken droppings or cow, horse manure - 1 liter per 10 liters of water.

Timing for pruning

Most roses bloom in June. Flower growers have enough time for pruning with all the ensuing circumstances. But if the first flowering due to some circumstances - weather, pests, diseases - has moved to the second half of summer, it is not advisable to carry out summer pruning. Because the plant does not have enough time for new flower shoots to mature.

The first snow did not harm the roses, but the frost would have killed both the flowers and the unripe shoots

If the region experiences early first frosts, young shoots will be the first to be affected. Therefore, roses that bloom at the wrong time are not pruned. Fruits form on them and in this form the bush overwinters.

My mistakes and achievements

I have been growing eight varieties of roses for a long time, seven of which are multi-colored and one climbing. The names of the varieties have been forgotten, and I confess that I only recently learned what climbers or floribundas are. For a long time I did the pruning on a whim; it’s amazing that all my “girls” are still alive and blooming beautifully. Main mistake consisted of plucking off spent flowers. After this, I was tormented by the question, why do the remains of the pedicels turn black, turning into something gangrenous?

Leaving the pedicels was a big mistake

I didn’t always pay attention to where the shoot was cut - above the bud or where it was convenient to reach. New shoots, of course, grew, but the protruding stump looked sad.

The shoot was cut at a random location between the buds, but not above the bud

Incorrect pruning (not pinching) is not so disastrous; new flowering shoots will grow. But it’s still sweeter to the heart when the pruning is done correctly. The rose bush seems to be filled with gratitude, and the twig, topped with a sharp bud, is in a hurry to grow and express its gratitude with a fragrant flower.

Either she guessed right, or she became smarter, but the pruning was done correctly

Summer pruning of a rose after flowering will be the highest manifestation of your love for it. The response will not take long, and the charming flowers will bloom again in your garden.

IN summer time Roses can and should be pruned. If they are pruned to shape and improve the health of the bush, this is a sanitary procedure. But trimming is another matter. rose bushes in the summer after flowering.

About caring for roses after flowering in summer

After the end of the first abundant flowering of the rose in summer season she requires special care. It helps subsequently release new shoots again, on which buds will appear. The flower may bloom again in the fall.

How to prune roses after flowering in the summer so that they bloom again? After the buds have faded, faded flowers are removed, and stems that are too long are shortened to give the bush a harmonious shape.

Note! There are non-repairing roses that bloom only once a season, so pruning them will not produce new buds.

Also in the summer, weeding in flower beds with rose bushes, mulching the soil, watering and fertilizing are mandatory. If necessary, bushes are sprayed with fungicides to protect against insects and diseases.

With regular mulching of the soil weed practically does not appear. To feed the bushes, potassium fertilizers are scattered next to them. You can purchase ready-made ones or use chicken manure.

If the weather is dry and long time there was no precipitation, then rose bushes should be watered frequently. After watering, the soil is mulched. This will prevent the rapid evaporation of moisture from the soil. Tree bark, wood chips or other materials are used as mulch. organic materials. The mulch is laid out in a layer of 10 cm. The area near the bush with a diameter of 10 cm is not covered.

Rose pruning

Why are roses pruned?

Depending on the height of the rose bushes, the variety of the group to which they belong, and the season they are used various ways trimmings.

The first spring removal of branches from rose bushes is carried out to form appearance bush to remove excess shoots that interfere with the normal growth of other stems, as well as to remove damaged ones. This is primarily for decorative purposes.

Trimming in autumn time prepares the bush for entering winter, which contributes to:

accelerating the process of formation of new stems;
enhancing the development of the root system;
received by the plant more quantity nutrients;
reducing the possibility of infectious infections.

Note! Proper pruning of the stems of rose bushes is the key to the appearance of renewed shoots and the formation of new buds. Without having certain knowledge on how to carry out such a procedure, you can cause irreparable harm to the plant.

Do I need to cut off faded buds on roses? Such removal is carried out primarily for the purpose of preserving attractive looking bush, and also contributes to the continuation of flowering. After this, the rose directs its strength to the process of throwing out new shoots with buds. This procedure is carried out until the plant begins to prepare for winter and the branches harden.

How to prune faded rose buds to bloom again

Pruning roses in July after flowering is carried out by removing the buds along with the branch. Moreover, you should pay attention to the growth point - near the place where the cutting connects to the leaf. Subsequently, a shoot begins to grow from it again, on which a new bud will be formed. You need to take into account the age of the bushes. Shoots from annual plants cut about half.

Important! The branch should be cut only above the growing point.

Next year, each pruned branch will produce 2-3 shoots. Biennials are shortened by 2-3 eyes from the beginning of the base, and annuals are shortened directly above the upper bud, located under the faded bud.

In adult plants (over 3 years of age), all dead and weak branches, as well as small shoots formed after pruning in the previous year, are completely removed.

If you have to prune a large number of bushes, then it is not necessary to carefully determine the location of the cut. It is enough to remove a branch at a distance of about 5-8 mm above the selected leaf, since the growth points are almost next to the leaves.

Pruning allows you to enjoy your roses longer during the blooming season. If faded roses are not pruned, rose hips and seeds begin to form from them.

Many people believe that the process of cutting a branch should definitely be carried out at an angle of 45°, since with a perpendicular cut the plant may develop a fungal infection due to moisture accumulating in this place, and with an inclined cut the water will roll off faster.

Note! To protect injured areas from possible damage, they can be treated with PVA glue.

You should not pick off a wilted bud by pinching the stalk. After the procedure carried out in this way, a weakened shoot will appear.

Pruning roses with large buds has some differences from that of bushes of other varieties. In them, the stem on which the flower formed is cut to a certain place, and in multi-flowered bush roses and tea roses, after they have flowered, the entire part of the branch above the first leaf is completely removed. This procedure is carried out in the same way for ground cover varieties.

Important! After the second flowering of the rose in the autumn, pruning is not advisable. It is better if the plant is at rest and can prepare for winter.

Pruning hybrid tea varieties

The branches of hybrid tea rose bushes are pruned in such a way as to form a ball shape. Since the buds form on shoots formed this year, most of them are removed. The following procedure schemes are used for such varieties:

on one- and two-year-old bushes, 2-4 buds are left, retreating 15 cm from the soil level,
for adults - 4-6 buds at a distance of approximately 20 cm, and about 2-4 buds are left on the side shoots.

Pruning indoor roses

Some believe that indoor rose after flowering it no longer produces buds, but this is not true. At proper care they will appear again.

Branches are pruned in early spring. The second time the procedure is carried out after complete flowering, while 3 live buds are left on the branches. Also, from a rose in a pot, shoots growing inside the bush and those with faded buds are removed.

Pruning scheme for climbing varieties

Buds in climbing plants form only on last year's shoots. After flowering, old branches are cut off only if there are new shoots.

The formation of climbing bushes is carried out in a horizontal direction. Flowers and young branches appear along such branches in summer. Pruning after flowering is carried out in late summer - early autumn. Old lashes are cut off, leaving 30-40 cm from the base.

Rose pruning diagram

Further care

Like other plants, it needs timely watering. Perfect option- installation of an automatic irrigation system. Experts set it up in such a way that water flows under each bush periodically and in doses. This makes caring for the flower garden much easier. But since it is often not possible to do this, you have to water manually. It is advisable to moisten only the soil under the bush, and not the entire plant. In this case, for one bush it is enough to add 5-15 liters of water.

Important! Water for irrigation must be preheated under sun rays. Watering is carried out from 1 to 3 times a week. Their number is determined by the condition of the soil in the flower beds.

Watering is carried out in the evening or early in the morning. Do not water during midday heat. This can negatively affect the development of the plant: burns may form on tender leaves.

To ensure abundant flowering, do not forget about fertilizers. Use granular fertilizers. They are simply scattered near the plant. This is done 3-4 times a season. You can also use soluble fertilizers. They are first dipped into water and then poured into the ground next to the bush.

If you follow all the rules for summer pruning of roses, their abundant and lush flowering is stimulated. And regular care and getting rid of excess shoots will help protect them from insect pests and diseases.

One of important points Caring for roses involves pruning them. If you prune roses correctly after flowering, this will help preserve decorative qualities plants, as well as stimulate growth and abundant flowering further.

Pruning roses in summer

It is important to prune roses after the first bloom. This is quite delicate and painstaking work. The fact is that not every shoot really needs to be pruned. The main purpose of pruning roses during flowering is to force the plant to produce buds again after a while. This is especially important for standard and large-flowered varieties.

Perennial bushes also need anti-aging pruning. Exactly summer period is most suitable for this, since the cut dries quickly and the infection does not spread. To do everything right, you need to know some of the subtleties of summer pruning roses after flowering.

Never remove a faded flower by simply pinching the stalk. This technique is only suitable for tulips or daffodils, and in the case of roses, this method will lead to the fact that the flower on a weakened shoot will be elongated and bend easily. It is correct to prune roses only to the nearest developed bud, as this will give a start to new strong shoots and abundant flowering.
Not all gardeners know whether it is necessary to prune faded roses, and leave everything as is. And such pruning is actually necessary. As soon as the flower begins to fade, it must be removed immediately. The cut is made 8 mm above the next eye. At the same time, make sure that the shoot in this part is strong enough and will not sag in the future.
Pruning large-flowered roses after flowering is slightly different. Along with the flower, stems with incomplete leaves and at least one five-fold leaf are also cut off. This technique awakens the rose to bloom.
Pruning of multi-flowered roses in summer is carried out as follows: after wilting above the first leaf, the entire inflorescence is cut off completely.
For standard varieties, it is important to control the direction of shoot growth. To do this, the largest eye is directed outward, as is done during spring pruning.
Pruning roses after flowering in early autumn is not recommended. At the end of summer, it is better to leave the plant alone and give it. If you prune a shoot that was a flowering stimulator, then before the onset of cold weather new flower it simply won’t have time to develop. That is why cutting is not recommended at the end of summer - beginning of autumn.
If, with proper care, your bushes are not going to bloom, the plant may have blind shoots. To awaken a rose, you need to cut off the underdeveloped bud at the end of the shoot along with the adjacent leaf.

How to prune roses correctly?

After we figured out whether it is possible to prune roses in the summer, it's time to learn how to do it correctly. There are several simple but important principles to work with when pruning:

Like rose hips, roses produce fruits after flowering. So constantly watch the plant and trick it: once you remove the seeds, it will signal the plant to produce them again.