How to make a drain from gutters. How to make a drain with your own hands: choice of material and manufacturing process. Installation of drainage risers

Greetings our dear reader! - an integral part of any home. The presence of proper drainage will preserve the performance properties of the roof over time. In the construction services market you can find many specialists and companies engaged in this type of activity.

Unfortunately, it is not always possible to meet real specialists in their field among such diversity, so in this article we want to tell you how to make sewer pipes with your own hands. How to choose material and design based on your needs. What to pay attention to and how to cope with difficulties.

Before making a drain from sewer pipes, you need to carefully select the material. There are two types of drainage:

• internal, used for flat roofs;
• external, used for sloping roofs.

Manufacturers produce pipes of different colors, which helps the buyer to navigate more easily. Let's look at their properties and types:

1. White pipe. The main application is indoor sewage system. Advantages: resistance to high temperatures and muffling of the noise of flowing water. Perfect for those who live in regions with mild winters, as it cannot withstand low temperature changes. In severe winter conditions it will quickly fail.
2. Gray pipe. Just like white ones, they are recommended for indoor use. The material from which they are made is not resistant to frost and does not withstand strong physical stress. It is recommended to use in regions where there are no harsh winters. The main reason is that you will have to clean the drain quite often from frozen ice and snow.

1. Brown pipe. This type is recommended for external use. The main advantage is the thick wall. Thanks to this factor, they have good resistance to high pressure and sub-zero temperatures. Perfectly withstands the pressure of ice and snow in winter. A significant disadvantage is that in hot climates it becomes fragile under the influence of the sun.

As we see, manufacturers do not provide much choice, and each of the presented types has its own disadvantages. For this reason, we recommend using a plastic sewer pipe for installation. It combines resistance to both sun and frost.

Additionally, it is worth noting that you can use almost any pipe made of metal. But when choosing, you should pay special attention to its weight, since it is attached to your cornice. The most suitable option is a stainless steel pipe.

Is the sewer pipe suitable?

Unlike other types that are used when installing drains, sewer pipe is easily accessible, practical, easy to install and inexpensive. One can say about the sewer pipe - the ideal combination of performance characteristics and cost. It is for this reason that it will be an ideal option for installation.

Installing a drain from sewer pipes is an excellent option to do it yourself!

Water drainage elements

Before installing the drain, you need to study all the components that will be required for the work, namely:

• gutter, the main component of drainage. You can buy it ready-made, or get it by sawing the pipe in half;
• bracket, special mount for drainage;
• branch A vertically installed pipe for draining rainwater from the drainage system;
• funnel. A kind of adapter from the upper part of the drain to the outlet;
• stub. Used for dead-end drainage elements;
• corners. Angle adapter. Purchased according to the number of corners on your roof;
• coupling The connecting part of the gutter, which is used for joining;
• fastener As a standard, a self-tapping screw or a self-tapping screw with a nut is used. The presence of a rubber gasket in the fastener is mandatory.

We looked at the main elements used in water drainage. Depending on the design and material used, their number can be added or decreased.

Features on a flat roof

A flat roof is different in that it does not slope in a certain direction. When making such a roof, water is often collected in one specific place. The best solution for the drainage system is to find this place and install the pipe there. The riser will need to be installed with a funnel at the top for a larger intake of collected water.

In fact, the drainage system will no longer be needed. It will be enough to install a vertical drain pipe at the water collection point. If it is possible to prepare a rainwater drainage system during construction, the right solution would be to embed it into the wall in advance. Thanks to this, the appearance of the home will be more presentable.

IMPORTANT! During installation, to increase the service life, it is correct to insulate the pipe and cover the top of the funnel with a grill.

On a pitched roof

There are a wide variety of drainage schemes for pitched roofs. When installing the system, you should pay attention to the number of slopes and the structure of the roof itself. Most often, a drainage system is installed after the construction of a house is completed, but this is not entirely the right approach.

If the drainage option is provided in advance, then an internal system can be installed. It will be much more durable and will not be visible. To install an internal drainage system, you will need to consult a specialist.

When installing an external system, pay attention to the number of slopes of your house. There are as many slopes as there are vertical drainage pipes. If the volume of water is large, it would be correct to install drainage pipes (risers) on both sides of each slope, and if it is very large, you can even install an additional riser, approximately in the middle.

A pitched roof is the simplest. In this case, you can limit the drainage to only one side of the roof. If there are two or more slopes, it will be possible to use both a closed and a simple drainage system.

Saving on drainage

Saving on drainage is not always the right decision. When using the wrong outlet system or using cheap materials, there is a risk of encountering the following problems:

• Incorrect design. If water gets past the drain or the system leaks, this will lead to erosion of the foundation. The mildest consequences are indoor fungus. But there is a risk that the foundation will begin to sag, and this will entail much bigger problems;
• Flaw in design or incorrect material. If water accumulates, the service life of the roof will be significantly reduced. There is a risk that the roof will begin to rot and subsequently leak;
• Not enough gutters. If there are insufficient gutters (for example, with a gable roof, use drainage on only one side), you may encounter the fact that the water will not drain completely from the roof. This reduces the service life of the roof;
• Poor quality material. Using a cheap pipe entails several problems: leakage and frequent replacement. When leaking, water will flow along the walls of the house, this affects the fact that the walls of the building will collapse, which will consequently result in much larger problems.

As we can see, saving on drainage is inappropriate and can lead to many problems. Making a drain from sewer pipes is already a kind of savings, but be sure to carry out all the elements of the work with passion.

Calculation of elements

Once you have decided on the number of risers and the length of the drain, you will need to correctly calculate all the additional structural elements that we talked about earlier.

When making a drainage system from a pipe, proceed from the following calculation of the system: divide the perimeter of the structure by two and add 10% to the resulting amount. The resulting figure is the total length of the gutters.

From each pipe you will get two gutters. For each joint you will need a connecting element - a coupling. Based on the number of corners on your roof, prepare the corner joints.

Bracket – installed approximately every 1.5-2 meters. A bracket with a clamp is required for the riser; it is installed at the same distance. A whole pipe will be used for risers; the length of the pipe is equal to the height of the building. There are as many funnels as there are risers.

If the drainage system is not closed, then plugs are also installed, one at the edges of the system. For each fastening and connection you will need fasteners, two or three self-tapping screws with a rubber gasket.

When using a metal pipe, you should pay attention to the weight of the structure; the calculator provided by us will help you with this.

What can it be made from?

In our article we have already talked a lot about the material that can be used. To save money, use a pipe, metal or plastic of your choice. Despite all the advantages, any metal will eventually...

Using a metal pipe will significantly increase operating time and also increase costs. The reason is the use of a more professional tool with expensive consumables.

Plastic

Making rainwater drainage from a plastic pipe is the most optimal option in terms of cost and quality. We have said more than once that a plastic sewer pipe meets all the requirements that we place on a drainage system. Below we will introduce you in detail to how you can carry out the installation yourself.

Where to start installation

In order to imagine how the work happens, we recommend watching the video lesson that we have prepared for you.

Complete a design drawing in order to determine where and what drainage element will be located. In order not to be distracted when installing the system, prepare the necessary tools:

• drill or screwdriver with attachment;
• grinder with cutting wheel for metal;
• thread;
• building level;
• stationery knife;
• sealant.

Manufacturing of gutters

The length of the gutter is selected so that there are as few joints as possible on one plane. To make a gutter, mark the pipe exactly in half. Using a grinder, make a cut first on one side and then on the other. Using a utility knife, trim the edges of the cut to remove any burrs. Cut the gutter to the required length.

Bracket installation

The installation of brackets should be approached responsibly. You need to decide on the side into which the water should flow. If it is a two-sided slope, install the fastener from the middle to the edge. You need to install the first and last brackets in the same plane, then pull the thread between them and check for a slope. After checking all the data, we install the remaining brackets at a distance of 1.5-2 meters according to the tensioned cord.

Installation of risers

The installation of drain risers is carried out along the wall, and is secured to a special bracket with clamps in the form of a ring, which you can find in any store. Due to the fact that the drainage system may not be installed flush against the wall, there is a need for two corner connections. The upper part of the riser is connected to the drainage system with a special funnel.

Is it possible to save money on a drainage system? In search of cheap options for organizing rainwater drainage, craftsmen are trying to make parts for gutters on their own, from available materials: plastic containers, galvanized steel sheets, pipes. Are such savings justified? What is more profitable: buying factory parts or making it yourself? How long will a homemade gutter last? In any case, there are only 2 ways to spend less:

1. Save on installation costs and assemble and install the drain yourself.
2. Figure out how to make a funnel and gutter from scrap materials, and design your own system.

Copper drainage system

System calculation: home drainage planning

At the planning stage, markings are made - they mark the installation locations of horizontal (gutters) and vertical (gutters) lines. After determining the footage, calculate the number of additional parts that are needed to assemble the system: fasteners, plugs, connectors, funnels and adapters.

Meterage of gutters and number of funnels: how to calculate correctly

The number of horizontal lines depends on the roof structure and the length of the slopes. The simplest system of two gutters and two drainpipes is the best option for a gable roof with a total area of ​​up to 100 square meters. m and the length of the slope not exceeding 10 m.

Scheme for calculating the number of drain lines

In this case, there is no need to double tilt from the center. And you can make a gutter for a drain from both ready-made and homemade parts. The length of the horizontal tray is equal to the length of the slope. Diameter - 10 - 12 cm. The slope of the drain is up to 2 - 3 mm per linear meter. Factory parts are produced in standard length - 3 m.

The number of funnels designed to drain water from the tray into the drainpipe is equal to the number of horizontal lines. If the length of the straight section is more than 10 - 12 meters, then 2 funnels and 2 drainpipes are installed along the edges.

Basic parameters for installing gutters

If the total number of funnels in the planned scheme is two, then calculating the length of the drainpipes is easy. The height of the building from the bottom edge of the roof to the ground level is multiplied by 2.

When planning more complex structures, calculations are performed for straight lines, drains and planning for installation in difficult areas (on protrusions, in corners) with the selection of special products - corner connectors.

Additional parts: mounting hooks and connectors

To make a gutter for a drain, you will additionally need:

• 2 caps for each horizontal line.

• Connectors - every 3 m if finished parts are connected.

• Brackets – for 10 m – 20 pcs. The distance between the hooks should be within 50 - 60 cm.

Hooks are selected depending on the type of fastening. If a strong gable board is installed under the roof slope, not covered with clapboard, it is more convenient to install the box on short brackets.

When fixing to the rafter sheathing, choose ready-made adjustable or non-adjustable hooks with an extension. Such fastenings can be made independently from strips of thick steel 3–4 cm wide.

To connect the funnel to the pipe, you will need 2 elbows of 40 o to lead the drain to the pipe installation line. To attach the pipe to the walls, use special holders or clamps. The pipes are connected with couplings.

Which is cheaper: make gutters yourself or buy ready-made ones

After calculating the number of parts and the total length of the horizontal and vertical branches, you can choose what and how to make the gutter and drain funnels in order to both save money and install a system that will last at least 10 years.

Plastic PVC structures

The easiest way to make a gutter yourself is to assemble a line of ready-made PVC trays and connectors. Plastic systems are cheaper than metal-polymer ones. Processing and installation do not require special skills. The material is easy to cut with a hacksaw; the kit includes all the necessary connectors. No professional tools are needed for assembly.

The advantage of PVC gutters is aesthetics. It is possible to choose a system to match the roof covering or the color of the cladding of the under-roof space. The material does not fade in the sun and can withstand significant temperature changes.

Metal-polymer parts

Metal-plastic gutters are steel products in a polymer shell. The cost of metal parts is higher than plastic ones. The service life of the drain is from 30 years. The material has high strength - it can withstand loads during snow melting and melting, and does not crack in frost. Used in drainage systems without temperature restrictions.

Working with metal-polymer parts requires preparation. Cutting of molded products is carried out exclusively with special scissors or a hacksaw for metal. The use of cutting discs is not allowed - the material must not be overheated during processing.

Products are transported in protective film. During assembly, care must be taken to avoid damaging the polymer layer.

The only drawback of metal-polymer drainage is the noise of the gutters. If you plan to install a drain on a low-rise house with an attic, preference is given to quiet polymer trays.

Materials for making gutter parts with your own hands

To make a drain funnel and gutter with your own hands, use galvanized steel and plastic pipes for external sewerage.

Factory drain made of steel

Galvanized steel is sold in sheet form. To make parts, you need some metalworking skills. A system assembled from handicraft products will not be durable - during cutting, the thin zinc layer is damaged, and the edges at the cutting site are left without an anti-corrosion coating.

To work with steel you will need:

• A special bending machine or wooden blanks that will be used as the basis for forming the gutter.

Bending a sheet on a wooden base

• Scissors or grinder for cutting.

The sheets are cut to the planned dimensions, bent to shape and the edges are folded in the form of a fold for subsequent joining of the part.

The box parts are connected to each other in two ways: by hot soldering or by installing steel connectors, which are secured with screws.

It is not profitable to make gutters from steel sheets yourself. Flaws:

• Difficulties with connection due to inaccuracies in the geometry of parts.

Special machine for working with steel

1. Short service life - it takes a maximum of 2 to 3 years before holes appear in a home-assembled box.
2. The process is labor-intensive and time-consuming.

It is better to try to assemble a simple system from sewer pipes. Select parts intended for installation outside: pipes for external sewerage - orange. You will have to come to terms with the color - white or gray pipes are intended for indoor installation, the material of manufacture is not frost-resistant, ultraviolet-resistant or high-temperature resistant. Considering that in summer the drain is exposed to direct sunlight at a temperature of 40 degrees, and in winter at 20 degrees below zero, pipes for interior work will not be able to last even 1 season.

Parts for making your own drain

To work you will need:

• Half of the planned footage of gutters in the form of orange sewer pipes with a diameter of 100 mm.

• Pipe couplings - according to the number of connection points on horizontal branches.

Coupling for gutter connection

• Pipes for drainage in a quantity equal to the calculated footage of drains.

• Adapters with outlet for making your own funnels for drainage.

Tee with 90° bend - for funnel

• Elbows: 2 for each funnel.

Elbows with different angles are used for installation when changing direction: in corners, under a funnel

• Sealant for plastic – frost-resistant and moisture-resistant, for outdoor use. You can use acrylic or silicone based adhesive.

For convenient operation and quick installation, you can select pipes of the same diameter for gutters and drains and thus save on waste.

How to make a gutter and secure a funnel with your own hands

To assemble and fasten horizontal sections of the drain, you will need simple tools:

• A ruler with a level, chalk or pencil, fishing line or thread.

• Screwdriver, self-tapping screws.

Installation of brackets: installation of ready-made and homemade mounts

First of all, it is necessary to secure brackets under the roof - hooks that hold the trays.

When using short non-adjustable brackets, mark on the gable board the extreme point where the first fastener will be fixed. The distance from the edge of the roof is up to 15 cm. A line with a slope is formed from this point. The distance to the last fastener in meters is multiplied by 2. The resulting value is the difference in height in millimeters between the first and last bracket.

Distance from hook to edge of joints

Example. If the distance between the hooks is 8 m, then the height difference is: 8 x 2 = 16 mm. This is the minimum acceptable slope value. Maximum – 8 x 3 = 24 mm.

Slope and calculation of the number of brackets

The installation points of the extreme elements are connected. The brackets are attached along the marked line in increments of 50 cm.

If hooks with extension strips are installed, then after fixing the first bracket to the flooring, measure the distance between the top edge of the board and the middle of the hook. From this point, a slope is formed towards the funnel.

An easy way to get the slope right

To make the process easier, you can mark the fold directly on the extension strips. Lay out a row of numbered hooks end to end. A straight line is drawn from the bend point of the first. On the extreme bracket, measure the required slope value and place a mark below the first line. Connect to the point on the first element. During installation, the hooks are attached to the line, and the extension is simply bent according to the markings.

Installation of fasteners with extensions

Assembly of plastic and metal-plastic structures

Plastic trays are connected to each other using special parts. Calculate the joint points so that the distance from the edge of the connector to the hook is at least 2 cm. If connectors with rubber seals are selected, then the gutter is installed so that there is a gap of 5 - 6 cm between the edges of the two connected trays. This distance is sufficient for free movement parts during thermal expansion.

The second method is glue. The connector is treated with an adhesive composition: 3 strips of sealant are applied. Two - on the edges and one in the center. Press the groove against the connector and remove any remaining adhesive.

Plastic plugs are installed along the edges of the line.

Plugs, funnel and brackets at the edge of the line

The funnel is mounted according to the connector principle. Make sure that the distance from the outer bracket to the edge of the funnel is up to 5 cm. If the factory funnel is equipped with a seal, then additional sealing is not carried out.

The connection is made on brackets or parts connected on the ground are installed if 2 craftsmen are working.

Instructions for the manufacture and assembly of drainage from PVC pipes

When selecting sewer pipes for a homemade drain, pay attention to 2 important points:

1. Choose products in the mid-price category - preferably made from frost-resistant PVC for laying in the ground.
2. Do not skimp on connectors - they must be made of the same material as the pipes (orange, for outdoor installation), from the same manufacturer.

How to make a gutter from a regular sewer pipe? Cut the pipe lengthwise exactly in the center: you will get two gutters 3 m long. For gutters, it is better to buy pipes without connecting sockets.

Slope of sewer pipe gutter

For cutting, use a hacksaw, jigsaw, or grinder with a disk (preferably with large teeth).

Tray with roof connector

The couplings are also cut in half - you get 2 gutter connectors. There is a seal inside the coupling; it is cut separately and placed into the part.

Marking for cutting pipes and joining parts

The joints must be sealed using acrylic or silicone construction sealant.

What to make the plug from? When purchasing tees for funnels, choose products with decorative covers. The lid must be cut into 2 halves and glued with sealant to the edges of the tray.

Tee with factory threaded cap

In the same way as the connector, the upper part of the tee is cut. The product is cut so that the outlet is located under the gutter. Fix the funnel with sealant or screws. The elbow is connected to the lower outlet with the socket facing up.

Artistic homemade funnel from a sewer tee

The pipe is assembled from pipes with connecting sockets. On the top pipe you need to install a bend at 40 - 90 o to connect the drain to the gutter. Measure the length of the segment between the knees. Cut a piece of pipe without sockets and connect the system.

In the lower part, install a branch - an elbow, cut the part so that the drain falls into the center of the rain inlet or into the ground, at a distance of 40 - 50 cm from the edge of the blind area.

Video: how to make a gutter from a sewer pipe

Is it worth saving on drainage? If the roof structure is simple, gable or hipped, you can save on installation work. Savings on material are highly questionable. If we consider that even expensive external sewer pipes are designed for installation in the ground and not in the open air, then it is impossible to predict how long a homemade system will last. In addition to fragility, there is another drawback: the very controversial appearance of the structure. Such gutters are suitable only for temporary outbuildings in the country.

Budget plastic gutters are designed for year-round use in all weather conditions. Special connectors, brackets and adapters will facilitate the installation process. And if you choose glueless connectors, you can assemble the system in a couple of hours.

To prevent water from the roof from washing away the foundation, a drainage system is installed. They are made from different materials, more or less expensive, but in general, the costs are substantial. You can save a little money by assembling the drain yourself. The features and installation procedure will be discussed further.

Types of drainage systems

The most famous and common roof drains are made of galvanized metal. They may not be as attractive as more modern options, but they are reliable and inexpensive. And this is important. What’s also good is that if you have the skill of a tinsmith or just have “straight” hands, you can make a drain out of galvanized steel with your own hands.

If we talk about other metal systems, two of them belong to the elite category - copper and an alloy of zinc and titanium. They are certainly durable, but the price is very high. There is a more democratic option - metal drainage systems with polymer coating. They are quite affordable in price, you can’t fault them in appearance, and in durability – it depends on the manufacturer. If the technology is followed, they will happen for many years.

There is another type of roof drainage - made from polymers. They can withstand ultraviolet radiation, frost and heat, are highly durable, and look good. The disadvantage can be considered the rather high price, especially from European manufacturers. However, there are good options in the low-cost systems category.

Composition of drainage systems

Gutters are located under the roof overhang. They are mounted on special brackets that hold the system. Since the storm drain is located along the entire perimeter of the roof, there are corners - internal and external. All these elements must be connected tightly; for this there are gutter connectors with rubber seals. These elements are often considered unnecessary. Then the gutters are laid overlapping with an overlap of at least 30 cm and connected with self-tapping screws.

To drain water, holes are made in the gutter into which funnels are inserted. Drainpipes are attached to the funnels. If the roof overhang is large, the pipe must be made curved. For this, there are maple or universal rings (from some manufacturers). The drainpipe is attached to the wall of the house using special clamps, which have the same color as the entire system.

A system of the required configuration is assembled from all these elements. If you decide to buy ready-made elements and then assemble the gutter yourself, the best solution is to have a house plan with dimensions on hand. Using it, you can quickly determine the composition of the system and calculate the required number of elements.

Installation features

The most questions arise about the fastening of brackets for the drain. It must be said right away that they are installed taking into account the fact that the gutters should have a slight slope towards the funnels. The minimum recommended slope is 3 mm. If you want the water to drain faster, you can make it larger - up to 10 mm.

If the length of the roof gable is less than 10 meters, the slope is made in one direction. If it is more, either they put an additional funnel (and a drainpipe) in the middle and form a drain to it, or the gutter in the middle of the pediment has the highest point and the slope goes from the middle in both directions.

When installing a drain with your own hands, you usually do this: nail the bracket at the highest point. Then the lowest one is nailed, taking into account the planned slope. A twine is stretched between them, along which all the others are attached. One recommendation - before forming a slope, check the horizontality of the line you are focusing on. Usually this is either a front (wind) board. Unfortunately, it is not always perfectly level. So check the verticality, and preferably with a hydraulic level or, in extreme cases, a bubble level will do, but of a long length - at least a meter. You won’t be able to find your way around shorter ones at longer lengths.

Number of brackets and methods of attaching them

The number of brackets for installing a drain is calculated simply: the distance between two adjacent ones should be 50-60 cm. Divide the total length of the wall by this distance. To the resulting figure we add one (extreme bracket) and get the required quantity for one wall. All others are calculated similarly. If the building has a non-linear shape, you will have to count one by one - the corner elements must be supported on both sides.

Now directly about the methods of attaching the brackets. There are three possibilities:

Once again, please note that the brackets are nailed taking into account the created slope. If they are made of metal, they are bent using improvised means or a special tool - a hook bender (sold in the same place where gutters are made). In this case, the gutter must be positioned so that the roofing material ends before reaching half of the gutter, and it is better that it is in the range of 1/2 - 1/3. This way, most of the gutter “catches” water, which is important during heavy rainfalls.

At what level should I mount it?

Now about how high to raise the gutter to the roofing material. If there is not much snow in your region, or the roof has a large angle of inclination, so that snow does not accumulate on it, you don’t have to worry too much and attach it wherever you like. Otherwise, the gutter must be lowered so that when the snow melts, the drain does not “go away.”

In the figure, the approximate trajectory of the melting snow is indicated by a dotted line. The far edge of the gutter should not intersect with it. By the way, it should be a couple of centimeters lower than the one located closer to the house.

If it is not possible to lower the gutter lower, you will need to install snow guards on the roof. They prevent massive snowfall. The snow gradually melts and comes off in small fragments, without harming the storm drain.

This is what a massive snow melt looks like. As you can see, the storm drain bracket does not interfere (this is a fitting)

Gutter installation

Gutters are placed in fixed brackets. There are two systems with different sequences of actions. The first has a specially formed groove at the edge of the gutter. The ends of the brackets are threaded into this groove, then the gutter is turned into place, secured with special tongues on the brackets. If you look at the photo, it will become clearer.

In the second system, installation begins from the side of the gable board. The far edge of the gutter is inserted into the locks located there, then pressed alternately into the locks on the front of the brackets.

The two fragments of the gutter must be connected using a special connecting element with rubber seals. But their cost is quite high, so two gutters are simply laid overlapping with an overlap of 30 cm (make sure that the joint is located along the water flow). For greater tightness, you can lay a strip of rubber between the two gutters and connect them with ordinary self-tapping screws (or with washers and rubber gaskets). After installing the gutter, its edges are closed with plugs.

Funnel fastening

Having assembled and installed the gutter on the brackets, the installation of the drain continues by installing funnels. They are placed in the lowest areas. If the funnels are located close to the corners, at a distance of about 20 cm from the edge of the gutter, a hole is cut out with a hand hacksaw. It is better not to use a jigsaw or grinder - there is a high probability that the cutout will be too large.

A funnel is attached to this cutout, clinging to the outer edge of the gutter. Then it is wound up to the second edge and fixed there with special clamps.

Installation of drainpipes

Drainpipes are attached to the funnels. If the roof overhang is large, a rotating element is attached directly to the funnel, which allows the pipes to be brought closer to the wall and secured there. For fastening there are special clamps painted in the same color as the entire system. They come in different designs, but mostly they have a latch so that they can be dismantled without removing the screws that secure the pipe to the wall.

The clamps are installed at a distance of at least 1.8-2 m from each other. At the bottom, the drain can be led directly into the drainage system (if it is located nearby). If it is made simply around the foundation, the drainage pipe ends with a rotating element, which diverts water from the foundation to a distance of at least 20 cm.

In principle, you installed the drain yourself, but there is one more detail that will make operation much easier. A metal (preferably stainless) mesh is placed on the gutter. It prevents leaves and other large debris from entering the system.

Installing a grid will allow for less frequent maintenance of the system. This is especially true on tall buildings.

Homemade drain

Ready-made drainage systems are good, but not cheap. What to do if drainage needs to be done at the dacha and you need to spend a minimum for this? There are several very budget options. The first is to make a drain from plastic sewer pipes. Take pipes of large diameter (110 mm or more), good quality with a thick wall, cut them in half and use them as gutters. The same diameter or slightly smaller can be used as drain pipes. It’s more convenient to buy ready-made brackets, but in principle, you can make them yourself. For more information on how to make a drain with your own hands from sewer pipes, watch the video.

An even more budget-friendly option is drainpipes made from plastic bottles. They cannot make a normal gutter, but the pipe funnels work normally.

In hardware stores you can find a lot of options for ready-made drainage systems, but their cost is high. Having learned how to make a drain with your own hands, you can make such a structure from steel sheets with different types of coating. It will not cost much, but will serve as reliably as one made in production.

The selected material must be strong, durable and resistant to environmental influences - precipitation, temperature changes and ultraviolet rays.

To one degree or another, these requirements are met by:

1. Galvanized sheet steel is a budget option, actively used to create gutters for drainage systems. Its disadvantage is that it is not very strong; the structure can be damaged with a crowbar when cleaning ice.
2. Metal with polymer coating. They are excellent for buildings whose roofs are covered with metal tiles, since it is easy to choose a material that matches the color. Resistance to low temperatures and corrosion make steel gutters with a protective polymer film a good choice. The only negative is the noticeable noise that occurs when water passes through the gutters.
3. Painted sheet steel. Such structures will require periodic renewal of the coating. Not a very good choice for houses covered with a soft roof - abrasive particles falling into the gutters along with rainwater will gradually destroy the metal.
4. Plastic. Durable and corrosion-resistant material, products from which are quite easy to assemble. The design is resistant to ultraviolet radiation and is not destroyed by abrasive particles or acid precipitation. Doesn't make noise.
5. Copper and zinc-titanium alloy. They are distinguished by durability, strength and reliability, but are very expensive.

Main elements of the drainage system

A drainage system of any type consists of standard elements, each of which is responsible for a specific task:

1. Gutters. Water flowing from the roof enters gutters located around the perimeter of the building.
2. Drainpipes. From the gutters, wastewater is carried down through pipes.
3. Funnels. Connect gutters and pipes together.
4. Plugs. Elements that control the rate of precipitation runoff serve as limiters.
5. Adapters and couplings. Parts that connect straight sections of a structure together.
6. Tees, elbows, elbows. Used to distribute water, bring drainpipes closer to wall surfaces, and for corners.
7. Brackets and holders. They are used to secure gutters.
8. Clamps and pins - fasteners for pipes.

When designing gutters for the roof of a private house with your own hands, take into account:

1. Diameter of gutters and pipes. In each case, they are selected individually, taking into account the area of ​​the roof, the abundance of precipitation in the region, and the angle of inclination of the slopes. Average parameters for small buildings (country houses, garages) – gutter d 7-11.5 cm, pipe d – 5-7 cm; for a cottage or house of medium size - d gutters 11.5-13 cm, d pipes 7.5-11 cm.
2. Location of drainage and water intake elements. The scheme depends on the type of roof and the length of the overhang. Pipes are usually installed in the corners of the building.
3. Quantity of materials. For an accurate calculation, you will need to calculate the total footage of the gutters (the perimeter of the building and a small margin of about 5%). You need to determine the number of funnels and pipes yourself, focusing on the length of the walls - they are installed at a distance of 10 m from each other. The length of the pipe depends on the height of the building (from ground level to overhang). The distribution, corner and connecting parts of the structure are determined individually, taking into account the configuration of your home.

Manufacturing of gutters from steel sheets

Gutters made of galvanized steel are the most popular and budget option. For the manufacture of a drainage system, you can use sheet metal with a polymer coating, which is more resistant to external influences; the procedure will remain the same.

Materials and tools

To create a drain with your own hands you will need:

• sheet material 0.5 mm thick;
• hammer;
• pliers;
• metal scissors;
• marker for marking.

When performing work, you need to take into account that the width of the workpiece must be 1.5 cm greater than the diameter of the pipe - this gap is needed to connect the elements.

Pipe

Instructions for making a pipe:

1. A pattern is made on a metal sheet based on the previously calculated parameters. From one edge, running along the length of the sheet, you need to draw a straight line at a distance of 0.5 cm, from the other - with an indentation of 1 cm.
2. Using scissors, cut out the part.
3. The area with an indentation of 1 cm is bent at an angle of 90° using pliers, the second edge is also bent, but at a slight angle.
4. The workpiece is rolled into the shape of a pipe, with both curved edges fitting into one another.
5. Using a hammer, the pipe is lightly pressed down to give it shape and make it easier to connect to the next element.

Gutter

How to make a semicircular gutter yourself? Ideally, this work requires special equipment, since without it the product will have an uneven shape, but if you don’t have it, you can try to do it yourself.

A blank is cut out of a metal sheet, a pipe or tree trunk of the required diameter is placed on it, and the blank is given the required shape using a mallet.

Funnel

The part consists of two glass pipes of different diameters, the diameter of which must be equal to the diameter of the pipe. The components are made independently using the method described above, but during manufacturing the edges should be flared not inward, but outward.

Installation of a self-made drainage system

When all the elements are ready, begin assembling the drainage system.

Installation can be carried out in various ways; the choice of method depends on the fastenings and the time of year when the work is carried out.

It is advisable to install the drainage system before the roof has been covered. The most reliable and successful method is installation on a rafter or external crossbar of a pitched roof. This allows you to protect suspended mounting structures from rain by covering them with a cornice strip.

If the roof is already installed, use a different method.

Work order

First, attach the brackets that will support the gutters. They are placed every 55-60 cm, and the level should decrease towards the drain. The holders should be installed so that the roof overhang extends approximately one-third of the semicircle, the remaining two-thirds will collect rainwater flowing from the roof.

To install brackets on a wooden cornice strip at the desired slope, use the following method:

1. Mount the highest positioned holder.
2. Install the bracket located at the lowest point (the slope is increased by 5 mm every meter). If you do not maintain the recommended tilt angle, water drainage will be difficult and leaks may occur.
3. The two installed brackets are connected with a thin rope, and a line is drawn along the wall along the rope.
4. The remaining supporting elements are installed at the required distance, placing them along the marked line.

After this, the gutter is installed; a plug is placed on the edge located highest. At the junction with the pipe gutter, a hole is cut out for a funnel, and the latter is installed.

After this work, the installation of waste pipes begins. To secure them along the wall, clamps are used.

If there is a storm drain on the site, the pipe is directed to it. In its absence, in case of water drainage into the soil, the pipe is placed at a distance of 30-35 cm above the ground level.

To prevent the system from becoming clogged with fallen leaves, it is advisable to install protective nets on the gutters. They will not interfere with water collection, but will protect gutters and pipes from large debris.

In ready-made systems, such protection is almost always supplied as a kit, but when making a drainage system yourself, it is easy to do it yourself.

To do this you will need metal mesh in rolls. Having cut strips whose width is slightly larger than the diameter of the gutter, it is fixed to the elements of the discharge system using ordinary plastic clamps.

Both ready-made and self-made drainage systems must be regularly inspected and cleaned of contaminants. Even a metal mesh will not protect the structure from dirt, dust, and small debris getting inside. As they accumulate, they can impede the flow of water or form blockages in pipes. This can cause water to flow onto the walls of the house and erode the foundation.

Having learned how to properly make roof gutters with your own hands, you can save a lot if you do all the work on manufacturing and installing the manufactured system yourself. At the same time, it is important to carefully follow the work technology, and when drawing up an installation diagram, take accurate measurements. A design made in accordance with all the rules will reliably cope with the task and will last for many years.

What happens if a drain is not installed on the roof of a building? The walls of the building, the soil around it, as well as the foundation will inevitably become waterlogged and will last much less than is possible with a drainage system. Manufacturers of such systems now offer a huge variety of products: lightweight, durable and easy to install. The downside is that such a “constructor” can be quite expensive.

However, home craftsmen have found a way out, and now you can make a drain from sewer pipes with your own hands. The main thing is to calculate everything correctly and choose the right sewer pipes.

The principle and advantages of installing drainage from sewer elements

During the warm season, sometimes whole streams of water fall on the roof of the house. In winter, in many regions, the roof turns into a kind of snowdrift, which can melt quite quickly under the spring sun. But a residential building or a serious outbuilding should not turn into something like a waterfall.

Roof gutters are the optimal solution for draining rain and/or melted liquids. Organized flows can simply be sent to the drainage, sewer system, or collected and later used for gardening needs.

An excellent solution to the problem of draining wastewater from the roof of a private house is a roof drain made from sewer pipes. The key advantage is savings. Sewage pipes made of polyvinyl chloride (well-known PVC) are inexpensive, and connecting and auxiliary elements (fittings) for such pipes can really be easily used when installing a drain.

A simple example: gutters made from sewer pipes are pipes cut into halves lengthwise, and tees, after a little modification, make excellent drainage funnels.

“Cutting” plastic pipes is easy; this is done not only with a grinder, but even with an ordinary hand hacksaw. Sewer pipes are light in weight, which facilitates transportation, movement of elements, as well as installation work.

A drainage system made from sewer pipes is very easy to install with your own hands. We will need the following set of tools and accessories:

• self-tapping screws and screwdriver (screwdriver),
• tape measure and level for setting the required slope of gutters,
• a hacksaw (for metal) or a grinder for turning pipes into gutters,
• file for cleaning the edges of homemade gutters and other elements.

To design and mark the slope of the drain, you need string, and to climb to the height for installing the gutters, you need a stepladder or something like scaffolding.

The list of advantages of PVC pipes for drainage installation is completed by the strength of all elements. PVC is resistant to low/high temperatures and mechanical loads, does not “suffer” from ultraviolet radiation, is durable, and if the entire system is carefully executed, it is also quite aesthetically pleasing.

Experienced home craftsmen are able to install gutters from sewer pipes with their own hands so skillfully that the design will be almost impossible to distinguish from a product made from original elements.

How to calculate the design and materials for a drain?

The best assistant in this difficult process is visibility. Ideally, you will need a large-scale sketch of all the facades of the house, and if the roof is complex, then in addition - its plan. Sizes must be indicated everywhere. In this way it will be possible to most accurately imagine the future drainage system.

Here are some tips for subsequent calculations:

1. Number of gutters = roof perimeter + small margin. Since you plan to use a drainage gutter from a sewer pipe, it is important to remember that one pipe is two gutters.
2. Standard metal brackets serve as fastenings for gutters. On straight sections, one gutter fastening per 0.5 m of structure is sufficient. Plus additional fastenings at the turns of gutters and at the points of vertical drains.
3. Vertical drainpipes are installed approximately one for every 10 - 12 meters of the roof perimeter. If the length of the house façade is less than 12 meters, the pipes can simply be placed in the corners; some redundancy is not a problem here. The number of vertical drainpipes is multiplied by the height from the gutter to the drainage point (after all, it can be either an underground drain or a barrel of water). The final number will show exactly how many pipes are required for the verticals. The last thing to calculate is the number of holders for vertical pipes (usually one holder per 0.5 m of drainage).
4. Instead of funnels, through which wastewater flows from gutters into vertical pipes, fittings will be required. They are modified by cutting off the part without a branch.
5. Some standard drainage elements - external and internal turning corners - will still be required if the roof has a complex structure. In many cases, gutters can be arranged as separate horizontal lines (an example is usually gable roofs).
6. Connecting elements and plugs require special attention during calculations. For greater accuracy, you can mark on the roof diagram all the potential joints of gutters and other elements, and only then make calculations. In standard use, PVC sewer pipes are connected using a socket method, but when installing a drain, aluminum clips or special glue will be required for fastening. A small margin must be added to the total number of connecting elements. The number of plugs for gutters is equal to the number of dead-end sections.
7. When installing funnels from fittings, rubber gaskets will be required. Only they provide the necessary sealing of the joint between a homemade funnel and a vertical drainpipe.

There remains a key point, which concerns the diameter of the sewer pipes. Traditionally, gutters are made from pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, and pipes with a diameter of 50 mm are used as verticals. Fittings are selected accordingly.

Installation of a drainage system

1. At the first stage, the gutters are prepared - the pipes are sawed and their edges are polished.
2. Then begins marking the place where the future drain will be attached. The brackets are mounted taking into account the required slope.
3. On the prepared route, they begin laying and connecting the gutters, not forgetting to install funnel fittings in the right places.
4. The work is completed by installing vertical drainpipes and attaching them to the wall of the building.

An interesting point is the possibility of protecting the drain from sewer pipes from clogging (fallen leaves and other natural debris). For such protection, any flexible mesh is suitable, which can be cut into strips of suitable size and then laid over the fitting funnels.

If desired, such pieces of mesh can be laid along the entire perimeter of the gutters, this will facilitate the removal of debris during further operation of the drain.

Do-it-yourself roof gutters made from sewer pipes are an excellent solution for private households. A properly designed, calculated and executed system will last for a long time, will be easy to operate, and if repairs are necessary, will not require serious costs.