How to make separate switching of lights on a chandelier. Wiring diagram for a chandelier with a double switch. Connection diagram for one chandelier, when two wires come out of the ceiling, and three or more from the chandelier

Before you start connecting the chandelier, you need to examine its structure.

If only 2 wires protrude from the chandelier and the ceiling, then no special difficulties are expected with the connection. But a more intricate option is when you need to carry out this procedure, having the ability to connect to two identical switches, if there are 3 wires protruding from the chandelier and the ceiling. That is, a light bulb, or a group of them, turns on separately. A picture emerges: a certain number of wires protrude from this ceiling, and also from the chandelier - what needs to be connected? To understand this, the provided article will display a detailed diagram of connecting the chandelier.

The main contacts, in order to conduct electrical wiring, have their own designation - these are letters of the Latin alphabet:

L – This is the phase designation,

N – Neutral wire,

PE is a grounding conductor with a yellow-green color.

They started marking chandeliers not so long ago, so these devices of earlier production do not have them. Then you have to figure everything out on your own.

How to connect a grounding wire to a chandelier

In lighting fixtures of modern manufacture, with metal fittings, a special grounding wire is installed, which has a yellow-green color. This wire is designated PE. If the electrical wiring in the room is made with such a wire, by the way, it may have a different shade, then it must be connected to the terminal. The terminal, in turn, is connected to the chandelier wire (yellow-green). In most rooms, electrical wiring is made without a grounding conductor. Old lighting fixtures, or those in which the fittings are made of plastic, also lack this conductor. Then the grounding conductor is not connected, and this absolutely does not affect the functioning of the chandelier. Grounding performs a purely protective function. If the insulation of the phase wiring is frayed and it comes into contact with the chandelier fittings (metal), then when you touch individual metal parts of the device with your hand, an electric shock may occur.

When photographs are taken of the wire that comes from the chandelier and the ceiling, it is white there. This is not a coincidence. There is no single established global standard for color marking of wires in the electrical network, and even more so in lighting fixtures. In the Russian state, the color marking of wires has changed since January 1, 2011. Each individual country has its own labeling. The only thing is that the PE grounding wire is marked in a standard color in all countries - yellow-green.

Chandelier connection diagram, when two separate wires come from the chandelier and the ceiling

Connecting a single arm chandelier from a single lamp and one key switch is generally not difficult. It will be sufficient to connect 2 wires that come out of the ceiling to each other using a terminal, Wago,
as well as terminal blocks.
You can also make a connection using a twist with two separate wires coming from the lighting fixture.

The requirements set out in the PUE state that the phase wire must be connected to the central contact in the socket. The switch, in this case, must open the phase wiring. This is in order to increase operational safety. It is recommended to follow this rule. But in reality, during practical work, few people think about this. In most cases, the switch and lighting fixture are connected very carelessly.

Connection diagram for one chandelier, when two wires come out of the ceiling, and three or more from the chandelier

If one chandelier has two or more lamps, and the existing switch has one button, then it is quite possible to connect this lighting device in three options:

– when the switch is turned on, all the lamps light up at once;

– a switch with several keys, you can turn on each of the lamps separately, a lot of arm chandeliers;

– with a switch with several keys, you can turn on entire groups of lamps, for example, in a three-arm chandelier, a two-key switch can activate either one lamp, or two, or all of them at the same time.

If only 2 wires protrude from the ceiling, then the lighting device can be connected according to option one - all the lamps at the same time. Connecting one chandelier depends on how the manufacturer connected the wires and on the sockets. Basically, chandeliers with a certain number of shades contain paired connections of wires from the shades and then the connection is made as described above.

Below is an even more complex chandelier connection diagram. The wiring in the chandelier is connected so that each lamp turns on separately. In this case, it is necessary to connect all available pairs of wires from the cartridges in parallel order. This does not depend on their number. There is one option - installing an additional jumper from the wiring.

You don’t have to install a jumper; it will only be necessary to unscrew the screws in the first and third terminals, pull out the wire passing through the left socket from the starting terminal, and securely insert the third into the terminal, along with the wire coming from the socket on the right side.

Diagram for connecting a lighting fixture with two separate wires, with three wires coming from the ceiling

In most cases, there are three separate wires coming from the ceiling when there is a two-key switch. Here you should first understand the wiring - find the common main wire. This action is easy to carry out when there is a phase indicator.

To start searching for this main wire, you should turn on the two available keys, and touch each wire in order, using an indicator screwdriver. There are two types of behavior of this indicator, depending on the specific wire (neutral or phase) that is opened by the switch:

– when touching two separate wires, there is a glow, while touching the third wire there is no glow. Therefore, a wire without a glow is common;

– when touching one of these wires, the glow is present, but the other two are absent. Then, the wire with the glow is common.

If there is no phase indicator, then you can also easily figure out the connection features. To do this, you need to connect any two wires coming from the ceiling to the chandelier and turn on two keys on the switch. If a glow appears, it means that there is a connection with the common wire, and also with one wire coming from the switch. Things can stay that way. If you want to fully understand all the wires, then you need to connect in such a way that the light does not appear even when two keys in the switch are turned on. Then you can find the wires coming from the switch.

Scheme for connecting a single chandelier with several wires, and with three wires from the ceiling

If you need to make sure that not all lamps in a chandelier turn on at the same time, but only in groups, this lighting device should be connected according to the diagram provided. A switch with two keys must be present. You need to connect one chandelier, but two or three arms, using the method described a little above. Of the three wires coming from the ceiling, one common main wire stands out. Then one separate wire from the pairs that come from each of the cartridges is connected to it.

The two remaining wires are connected to the free wires from the pairs that come from the sockets in the chandelier.

How to successfully connect two or three chandeliers from a single-key switch

If a suspended ceiling is installed in a large room, then to ensure ideal lighting, you need to place a number of chandeliers. These can also be halogen lamps or LED lamps, which must be turned on with a one-key switch. This is a simultaneous action. In some cases, it is necessary to connect this switch so that with its help it becomes possible to turn on the lighting simultaneously in several rooms (two, three or more). Then, chandeliers and other lamps are connected in parallel, as well as a certain number of sockets in the chandelier.

The connection diagram for the chandelier then is as follows. Each of the chandeliers is connected to the switch through a separate distribution box. But it becomes possible to implement all existing connections in a single box. Here, a lot depends on the proposed scheme for conducting electricity in the room. If chandeliers have many arms, then they are connected in parallel, as in the situation described earlier. This is a situation where two separate wires come from the ceiling, and there are three or more from the chandelier.

Scheme for connecting three lighting fixtures, from a single switch to three keys

If in one separate room, or even several similar ones, it will be necessary to turn on each individual lighting device from a single switch with three keys, then these devices must be connected according to the diagram provided.

This option for connecting lamps is used very often when controlling the same lamps. They can be installed in the kitchen, bathroom and toilet. One switch with three keys is installed in the corridor, and just before the entrance to this room it is planned to turn on the corresponding lighting device.

Diagram for connecting a chandelier to a block of special switches with a Viko socket

Not always, but in some situations, it is required that along with the switch there be an additional functioning outlet. If such a need arises, then it would be logical to replace the previously installed switch with a separate unit containing a switch and a socket. For example, the socket may be of the Viko type. This unit has chandelier switches from one to four keys. Therefore, there is a good opportunity to choose exactly the one you need. The photo shows a block with two keys, LED backlighting and one socket. Making a connection with backlight is almost no different from connecting the same switch, but without the corresponding backlight.

The switch block with socket must be connected to the lighting device strictly according to the diagram provided. This diagram is not very different from the diagram for connecting one chandelier to a standard switch. The only slight difference is that an additional wire comes from the neutral wire, which is directed to the left output of the socket.

The chandelier connection diagram shows the wiring connection, which is carried out in accordance with the penalties of the PUE. In reality, zero, as well as phase, can be connected in reverse. For example, if a switch with two keys was connected, but you just need a single-key switch with a socket, then it is quite possible not to lay an additional wire. You can use the free one, and subsequently switch it in the distribution box to the zero indicator or phase. It all depends on what type of wire goes to the switch.

Lengthening or building up wiring when connecting one chandelier

Currently, during the restoration of the premises, they began to install suspended ceilings. Particularly widespread. They look beautiful, do not wear out, are durable, come in various shades, and also with a surface. They are quite water resistant. Stretch ceilings are installed at a distance below the existing ceiling plane (50-10cm). For this reason, the length of the existing conductors is not enough to connect the lighting fixtures. It is necessary to increase their length.

The complexity of such a task lies in the following. It is almost impossible to get to the place where the wires join when connecting a chandelier and other lamps after installation has been completed. This suggests that the connection should be ensured to be optimally reliable. If the wires are connected using a terminal block
in particularly hard-to-reach areas, this is a very unreliable type of connection. Over time, the screws in the block become loose and need to be tightened a little.

Wiring cross-section for connecting one chandelier

Lamps in a chandelier do not have high power. Even if it contains six standard incandescent lamps, as well as one hundred watt halogen lamps, which are designed for voltages up to 220V, then the current consumption with all lamps on will be no more than 3A. A copper conductor with a cross section of 0.5 mm square can withstand a current of such an indicator. It is known that ordinary residential electrical wiring is made with wires having a cross-section of no less than 2.5 mm square. And this, in turn, allows you to connect one chandelier to electrical wiring made of aluminum wires. The total power consumption of their lamps is 2000 Watt. Therefore, when connecting any chandelier with lamps for voltages up to 220V, the question of the wiring cross-section does not arise.

When connecting one chandelier, as well as devices with halogen lamps for voltages up to 12V, the current consumed by the chandelier increases significantly. The cross-section of the wiring in the wiring area from the step-down transformer or adapter to the chandelier itself should be calculated and checked. It is necessary to determine how suitable the cross-section of the laid wiring is to the resulting value.

If a lamp or chandelier consumes a lot of current, then you need to think about replacing incandescent lamps with modern lighting sources, convenient fluorescent lamps or LED lamps. The current consumed by the latter is ten times less than that of incandescent light bulbs.

Connecting electrical lighting does not seem difficult if there are only two outlets. If there are more of them, the task becomes more difficult. In this case, various connection schemes can be used. The article discusses various situations that may arise when connecting a chandelier.

To hang and connect the lamp, you will need the following tools:

• A multimeter or indicator screwdriver will be required if you need to determine the purpose of the contacts.
• Terminal clamps or caps are used for reliable connections.
• Pliers.
• Marker.
• Screwdriver.

Connection

You also need a stepladder that has a suitable height for the job.

How to properly connect a chandelier with three or four wires

Before carrying out work, it is advisable to read the instructions for the lighting device. It usually describes the connection in detail.

The installation process of the luminaire may vary depending on the number of outlets on the ceiling and the keys on the switch.

If there are only two outputs on the ceiling, then one of them is phase, the other is zero. In this case there is no grounding. When connecting a chandelier, one of them is connected to any contact, the other to the remaining one. If necessary, all contacts of the chandelier corresponding to the phase voltage must be combined.

Double switch

To connect a chandelier that has 3 wires or more, you need to see if there is grounding. If there is one, connect it to the corresponding output of the chandelier. If it does not provide for this, then it must be isolated.

When there are zero and two phases, you need to determine where they are and mark them with a marker. If one switch is used, then the following options are possible:

• All lamps turn on at once.
• Some of the lamps turn on.

The second situation is convenient when the owner does not require light from all light sources.

In the first case, both phases of the chandelier are connected to the power phase, zero - to zero. Now when turned on, all lamps will light up.

Marking

Each of the phase outputs is connected to specific lamps in the luminaire. In the second situation, which lamps should be lit are selected and the corresponding contact is connected to the power supply. The remaining output is isolated.

A chandelier is a lamp mounted on the ceiling. For uniform lighting, it is usually mounted in the center of the room. Today, manufacturers offer chandeliers with different numbers of lamps, for example, three or five. To connect such chandeliers, a double (two-key) switch is often used. Thanks to the connection to a double switch, it becomes possible to regulate the lighting in the room. Those. you can turn on the first and second groups of lamps separately, or turn on both groups at the same time.

The general connection diagram to a double switch is as follows: phase and neutral wires are supplied to the junction box, usually laid from a common panel with circuit breakers. From the junction box, the neutral wire goes to the chandelier directly, and the phase wire goes to the common contact of the double switch. Two wires come out of the switch to the chandelier.

According to the new requirements, in addition to the phase and neutral wires, a protective PE conductor (“ground”) must be used, which is necessary for grounding metal enclosures of electrical equipment.

Connecting the chandelier can be done completely from scratch, or if you have already installed wiring, an installed junction box and a switch.

Preparation

Connecting from scratch involves several stages of electrical installation work. First, select a location for mounting the junction box. The connection (transition) box should be located at the top of the wall near the ceiling. The shape of the box can be chosen round or square. Then a place for the double switch is selected. It is advisable to place it in the room itself, right at the entrance. As for the chandelier, it is hung on a special hook in the central part of the ceiling.

Wiring installation

After the locations for the box and switch have been determined, a route for laying the wires is prepared. Grooving is carried out in the wall and in the ceiling slab from the junction box to the switch and to the chandelier. Grilling is also performed from the common panel to the junction box.

After the gating work, the connection box is installed. Then the wires are laid along the entire route. Three wires go from the common panel to the junction box (common zero, common phase and common ground). Next, zero and ground are laid from the box directly to the chandelier, and the phase wire is brought to the place where the double switch will be installed. Two phase wires should come out of the double switch, which go first to the junction box, and then from the box to the chandelier (for two groups of lamps).

Switch connection

After laying the wires, a double switch is connected. The phase wire from the box is connected to the common contact of the double switch. Two outgoing wires running through the box to the chandelier are connected to the output contacts of the switch. It should be noted that the function of the room switch is a phase break. Under no circumstances should you connect a zero to the switch.

Connecting a chandelier

In order to connect a chandelier, you first need to divide all its lamps into groups. For example, if there are three lamps in a chandelier, then the first group will have one lamp, and the second group will have two. If the chandelier has five lamps, then there are two options for dividing into groups.

• The first method (most often used) is the first group with two lamps, the second group with three.
• The second method is the first group with one lamp, the second group with four. You can choose any option you wish.

After dividing the lamps into groups, the connection is made in the chandelier itself. To begin with, we should note one nuance of connecting wires in lamp sockets. The phase wire must be connected to the central contact of the cartridge, and the neutral wire must be connected to the side contact. Then all neutral wires from all chandelier sockets are connected together and connected to the neutral wire supplied from the junction box.

As for the phase wires, individual groups are connected separately from each other. Those. the phase wires coming out of the cartridges of the first group are connected to each other, and the phases from the cartridges of the second group are also connected to each other, but separately from the phase wires of the first group. Then the connected phases of the first and second groups of the chandelier are connected to the phase wires of the double switch running through the junction box. The first group is to one wire, the second is to another wire from the switch.

If the chandelier is equipped with grounding, then the protective PE wire from the box must be connected to a special contact for grounding.

Connection in junction box

After connecting and connecting the wires in the chandelier and switch, all wires in the junction box are connected. The common zero from the shield is connected to the neutral wire going to the chandelier, the protective PE conductor is connected to the “ground”, which also goes to the chandelier. The common phase from the panel is connected to the phase wire to the switch. The outgoing wires from the switch are connected to the phase wires going to each group of the chandelier.

The last stage is connecting the common zero, phase and ground in the panel. The phase is connected to the circuit breaker, the zero is connected to the zero terminal, and the PE conductor is connected to the grounding bus. After this, voltage is applied by turning on the circuit breaker, and then the double switch is turned on and the presence of light is checked.

It often happens that a new chandelier needs to be connected to an old place. In this case, a double switch is already installed, there is a junction box under the ceiling, the wires are already laid and to connect the chandelier it is enough to determine which wire is which.

• The easiest way- this is to separate all the wires coming out of the ceiling in different directions and turn on both keys of the double switch. Use the indicator to determine which wires have voltage. The wire on which there will be no voltage is zero, the other two are phases.
• Second way- this is the ringing of all wires. To do this, you will have to disassemble the switch itself, and sometimes open the junction box.

Connecting the chandelier and the double switch must be done only when the voltage is turned off.

From this article you will learn what cross-section of wires is needed to connect to a chandelier, how to ring and determine the phases on the ceiling: we are looking for a ground wire, we are looking for phases and zero, the designation of the chandelier wires.

How to connect a chandelier in a simple way, rules for connecting wires, connecting a 2,3,4,5, 6 chandelier to a single and double switch and many other questions.

Design features of the chandelier

Chandeliers are most often used as lighting devices in residential premises - multi-lamp lamps designed for installation on the ceiling.

A chandelier is a structure that connects several lighting elements - light bulbs - to provide good lighting in the room.

If you use a regular light bulb in a room, then to ensure proper lighting you will need to install a powerful lighting element, and even then, if the room is large, it will not be enough.

But such light is not always needed, so the best option is to use several lamps.

But in the case of using ordinary light bulbs, each of them will have to run its own wire or branch from the junction box.

But if you install a chandelier, the design of which involves installing several light bulbs, then the complexity of the connection will be the same as for one or more light bulbs.

But at the same time, all lighting elements included in the design will be powered, and from one wire.

And all because the wiring branching occurs at the entrance to the chandelier, and not in the junction box.

Well, don’t discount the aesthetic side of the issue. A lonely light bulb hanging on the ceiling looks dull, or maybe a beautiful chandelier.

To get good lighting in a room with a perfect combination of lighting fixtures with the interior, it is not enough just to purchase a suitable chandelier, you also need to hang it and connect it correctly.

What is taken into account before carrying out work?

Let’s immediately identify a few key points that should definitely be taken into account:

And one more thing - it’s one thing to simply remove the old lighting device and connect a new one in its place, and quite another thing to completely create a lighting power line, including from the distribution board, installation of switches, junction boxes and lighting devices, and then connecting them into one network.

We will not delve into the specifics of independently installing the power supply branch of a chandelier, since we are more interested only in how to connect the lighting elements, although some points regarding wiring will be touched upon.

Helpful information

Let us immediately point out some features that can help:

• Breaking the circuit with a switch is carried out only through the phase line, and the neutral conductor and grounding conductor (if any) go directly to the consumer;
• For each branch, a separate phase wire is laid at the output of their switch (It is separated in the switch itself. A single-key switch has one phase conductor at the output, a two-key switch has two, a three-key switch has three). This affects the wire used leading from the switch;
• On the terminal blocks of the chandeliers you can find the designation of the terminals, which makes the connection easier (the marking “L” indicates that the terminal is phase, “N” is neutral, “PE” is grounding).

Now directly, how to connect the chandelier to the switch.

Let's assume that the line is made in advance, the switch is in place, and 2 or 3 wires stick out from the ceiling (with the third wire being “ground”).

In general, the connection diagram is the simplest - “one-key switch - 1 lighting fixture.”

If the chandelier is armless (with 1 lamp), then the connection method does not differ at all from powering a simple light bulb.

It also greatly simplifies connecting a chandelier to one or more light bulbs.

Single-key switch – 1 chandelier

Before starting work, you should determine which wire is which. It would be good if modern wiring with color differences between the cores was used. At the initial stage, only “land” is of interest.

If the electricians did not mess anything up, the ground wire will have a yellow-green braid.

But you will have to figure out the phase and zero yourself and for this you will only need an indicator screwdriver, but all precautions should be taken, since the test is done in live wiring.

Therefore, before applying voltage, you should make sure that the ends of the wires are separated in different directions and do not touch each other.

And only after this can voltage be applied (you also need to turn the switch to the “on” position).

After we touch the ends of the wiring with the tip of the indicator screwdriver, the indicator light that comes on when touched will indicate that the core is phase, which means the second one is zero.

If there are three wires at the output, and it is not clear which of them is zero and ground, you can use a test light to determine it (we connect a two-core wire to a regular 220 lamp through a socket). Then we identify the phase with an indicator screwdriver.

If the lamp lights up after applying voltage, then the second wire will be zero (if it doesn’t light up, the “ground” is connected to the control). For reliability, the wires should be swapped.

After determining where each wire is, all that remains is to connect them to the corresponding terminals of the chandelier terminal block, and then secure it to the ceiling hook. In general, everything is as simple as shelling pears.

The diagram for connecting the chandelier to two terminals is as follows:

If the circuit is three-wire, then the connection is made like this:

Now let’s assume that the chandelier is a two-arm chandelier and you need to connect it to a single-key switch.

Each horn is a branch and two wires must come from it (phase and zero), but the “ground” is connected to the body, so it does not go to the branches.

Let's assume there are blue and brown wires coming from each horn.

To connect the chandelier, you need to separate the wires of the horns by color and twist them together (the blue ones are separate from the brown ones).

Then we connect them to the power line, and it does not matter what color the wires will be phase and neutral.

For example, we connect the brown wires through the block to the phase conductor, and the blue wire to the zero.

Then we isolate everything and check its functionality. Here we note that with such a connection, no matter how many bulbs there are in the chandelier, they will all light up when turned on.

It happens that the third wire in a chandelier or wiring is superfluous (ground is not provided in the lighting fixture or power line).

In the case of a chandelier, we simply ignore this output (this will not affect the performance in any way), but the grounding conductor of the wiring will need to be insulated.

In general, this is a general diagram for connecting a chandelier and it is identical for everyone, but there are some nuances that will be indicated below.

A little about wiring connections. To do this, you can use either terminal blocks or conventional twisting followed by insulation with protective caps.

Each connection method has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Terminals are more convenient for installation, but it is not always possible to install it.

The twist is more compact in size, but it is not always possible to twist the wires well.

Two-button switch - chandelier

Now let's talk about how to connect a chandelier to a two-key switch.

Since the number of lamps and their division into groups can be very different, we will consider several options:

One switch - several chandeliers

Now let's look at how to connect several chandeliers to one switch. Here you will also have to consider the features of the power line.

For example, let’s take a single-key switch that will power three chandeliers at once.

The lighting line diagram with this switch is as follows: phase and zero go from the switchboard to the distribution box.

A wire goes into it from the phase conductor to the switch, and returns to it again.

As a result, in the box we have a zero and a phase (with a switch included in the circuit), to which we can connect the wiring leading to the consumer.

Therefore, in order to connect three chandeliers to this switch at once, it is enough to throw one common line and insert the phase and neutral wires of the lighting devices into it.

Moreover, it is better to connect each chandelier to a common line in distribution boxes (they additionally need to be installed). And then, in the chandelier itself, divide it into horns (branches).

Connecting a chandelier with additional equipment

Now about connecting the chandelier in which the fan is mounted. This lighting device does not require anything special to connect, since the fan is the same consumer as a regular light bulb (that is, the circuit is the same as that of a two-arm chandelier).

It should be connected to a two-key switch so that you can turn off the light or fan if necessary.

Also, when connecting such a chandelier, you should read the instructions, which should indicate which of the wires going to power the fan is phase and which is neutral, and use this information when connecting.

The same applies to chandeliers that have remote control using a remote control.

Inside such a device there will be a special executive unit with a controller that receives signals from the remote control.

So, this unit requires power, and it works on the same principle as a light bulb.

But in chandeliers with LED lamps, the lighting elements operate from a 12V network with direct current. And for this purpose, the design of the lighting device contains a step-down transformer, which has phase and neutral terminals.

Connecting this chandelier is as easy as connecting a regular light bulb.

Sometimes there is a need to install a combination switch to power the chandelier, combined with an outlet.

And here the whole peculiarity lies precisely in connecting the switch itself, and not the lighting device.

Since there is an outlet, in order for it to function, both phase and zero must be supplied to it.

And if only a phase conductor was routed to a conventional switch, then a neutral conductor will also have to be routed to the combined one. The connection diagram for such a switch is presented below.

There are times when the part of the supply wiring protruding from the ceiling is not enough to connect the chandelier. In this case, you can simply increase them.

To do this, you can take two pieces of copper wire with a cross-section of at least 1.5 mm. sq. and connect them to the line terminals using twisting. Then the connection points should be properly insulated.

Popular with readers: disadvantages and advantages of the device.

Safety precautions

When connecting a chandelier, do not forget about safety precautions. All work should be carried out only with de-energized wiring. Moreover, simply disconnecting the line at the switch is not enough; it must be de-energized at the distribution board.

You need to be very careful about the distribution of wiring before connecting.

5 / 5 ( 1 voice )

You can install and connect such a chandelier with your own hands.

Often, many home craftsmen find themselves at a dead end when they need to properly install and connect chandeliers. Usually these devices are not very complex in their design, but the lack of knowledge on the principle of their operation really becomes the cause of such problems. Today we will talk about how to connect a chandelier with 3 wires– a lamp with separate control of lamps, because this is what beginners have the most questions about. We will also look at how to properly install wiring to an electrical outlet and how to do all the work as safely as possible.

So, let's assume that you purchased a chandelier with separate candle control. How to connect it? Let's first dive a little into the theory, look at how this device works, and what the wires coming out of the base are for. This will help prevent mistakes when installing devices of different designs.

1. Unpack the chandelier. We don't need the lampshades yet, so you can put them aside. Take the base, which usually consists of a bowl of any size and shape, several metal tubes through which the wires pass, decorative parts and sockets into which the light bulbs will be installed.
2. The photo shows an example of a simple chandelier with two wires. No, in fact there will be more wires (2 per 1 cartridge), so we are only interested in their color marking. That is, we see three brown and three blue wires. These are the classic plus and minus or phase and zero required to power an electrical device.

An example of a simple chandelier with two wires

1. Since in this case power is supplied to all lamps simultaneously and through one switch, all wires of the same colors are twisted together, and then connected to the wires coming from the distribution box, through which voltage is supplied.
2. Connecting such a chandelier rarely raises questions. The wires cannot be mixed up, and there is no difference which one goes to phase and which one goes to zero.

It’s another matter when there are three or more color-coded wires. How to understand their purpose and not get confused when connecting. For this we need an instruction manual.

Three multi-colored wires come out of the chandelier bowl

Although the instructions are, perhaps, said loudly, since the kit will contain one single piece of paper with a drawing of the product and a brief diagram of its connection. We are interested in the name of the wires; in the instructions they can be labeled like this: L is phase, the wire will have brown, white, pink or any another color, except the following; N – zero, this wire is always of blue color; Ground – grounding, the wire has yellow color with applied green stripe.

Wiring diagram for a chandelier with 3 wires

Interesting to know! In some devices, especially those made in China, the phase and neutral wires do not differ at all. Their insulation is the same color and when connecting you have to navigate only by the lamps from which they come.

If your chandelier has all three of these markings, then this means that it is two-wire, with grounding. The ground is attached from the inside to the body of the device and most likely this will be done directly on the bowl, so you will see the second end. It is used if the body of the chandelier is metal and a person who grabs it can get an electric shock.

Attention! If there is a ground in the chandelier, then a separate one from the distribution box must be laid under it.

In fact, there are already four wires

Connecting such a chandelier is no more difficult than the previous option. A single-key switch is placed on it, and the grounding is connected to the necessary wires in the junction box.

Now look at the photo above. There we see a separate yellow ground wire and three more wires that will connect to the chandelier. Of course, the device itself has exactly the same number of wires. Here there will be a completely different connection diagram. This chandelier involves turning on only part of the lamps installed on it with one switch key. A similar situation will occur with models that have only three wires, but no grounding.

Working contacts of the lamp

Let's understand the purpose of each wire. Regardless of the type of base with which the lamp is equipped, it will have only two contacts. An example is shown in the classic screw version in the photo above. A phase can be applied to any of these contacts, and from the second one, accordingly, zero will come. This closes the circuit and the electrical appliance begins to operate. When installed with these contacts, the lamp touches the contacts inside the base, from which the wires of interest to us go into the bowl.

In order for the lamps in a multi-candle chandelier to light up separately, they need to be supplied with power independently, which is why the number of wires increases. So, two wires go into the bowl from each lamp. To break them into groups we need take all the negative wires(one from each lamp) connect together- this can be done by twisting or using special terminals, for example “Vago”.

Terminal Vago

Then we choose the principle of dividing the wires - through one lamp, by levels, and so on. We find the phase wires from the required lamps and connect them. The result is two more twists. The most common example is that in one phase wires of even lamps are connected, and in the other – of odd lamps.

For this to work correctly, we need to connect the negative wire to the common zero in the junction box, and connect the positive wires to the required switch keys. Next we will tell you in more detail how to do this.

Try it, don't get confused

If the device you bought simply has three wires coming out, it means that the manufacturer has already done all the work for you, and all you have to do is connect everything correctly.

If, in addition to the chandelier, you have difficulties with the suspended ceiling, then you can easily solve the problems. We will help you figure out why damage occurs on the ceiling, as well as how to most successfully repair all the defects.

Prices for different types of chandeliers

Two-gang switch

Two-button switches are usually installed in large rooms where separate light control is required. Moreover, you can launch not only parts of one chandelier, but also individual lamps and their groups. It all depends on how your wires are routed. In this chapter we will analyze the structure of this simple product and the purpose of each of its pins.

Each key turns on a separate group of lamps

If you look into the box where such a switch will be installed, you will see three wires going into it, which will also be of different colors and one of them will even be yellow-green, but it is not grounding. All three wires will be phase wires, just one of them will be the input and two will be the output.

The purpose of a switch is to break and connect an electrical circuit. This device is mechanical, and has moving and fixed contacts. The photo below shows the structure of the main working part of a classic two-key switch. We see from above one common contact for both keys. The lower contacts are already separate, and are connected to the upper one only in a certain position of the key.

How does a two-key switch work from the inside?

So we have three wires. All of them are brought out into the junction box. One of them is connected there to the common phase wire, which comes from the input panel. Its second end is connected to a fixed contact. We will connect the remaining two with those two twists on the chandelier and the two moving contacts on the switch.

As a result, we get the following. The fixed contact of the switch is constantly energized. We press the first key, and the current will flow to the twist, where it will be divided into light bulbs, from which it will return to the junction box and then along the neutral wire. The same thing will happen when you turn on the second key, only the remaining lamps will light up.

Interesting to know! Some electricians, by mistake or ignorance, pass through the switch not a phase, but a zero. Lamps will also work this way, but not all types. Due to the fact that the lamp will essentially always be energized, it may flicker even when the light is off. This happens with LEDs or fluorescent lamps. Therefore, to prevent this from happening, we do everything exactly according to the plan.

How to connect all the wires correctly - detailed installation guide

So, we have figured out the theoretical part. Now let's look at the process of installing the entire circuit using clear examples. We will divide this chapter into two parts - installation and electrical engineering.

Laying the wire, installing the switch

Classic electrician's kit

We'll start with the most basic thing - wiring. Let's imagine that you need to build everything from scratch. To work you will need the following set of tools. We will list the devices and immediately describe the order of work, without deviating from the step-by-step diagram.

Step 1. Cutting a hole for the switch.

A hammer drill is necessary for installation on concrete walls made of brick and other block materials. A diamond crown is included with it so that you can select a recess for the box. If you have a frame-type wall in front of you, which can be covered with plasterboard, wooden lining, PVC panels and similar materials, a crown is taken for wood, and a hammer drill can replace a screwdriver.

Cutting a hole for the switch

Advice! There are other ways to achieve the desired result. But that’s not the point – what’s important to us now is the stage and the option for its implementation.

Step 2. Cutting grooves.

Now you need to connect the resulting hole to the distribution box using a groove. It is done from the hole upward to the desired level, and then it is carried out horizontally to the end point. It is most convenient to work with a wall chaser. This tool has two parallel disks and makes two cuts in the wall at a certain distance in one pass. Then the inner part of the groove is knocked out with a puncher and a groove with smooth edges is obtained.

Cutting grooves

Prices for popular models of wall chasers

Wall chaser

In the absence of a wall chaser, everything can be done with a grinder. Work of this nature is always performed with gloves, goggles and a respirator. You should not try to knock out the groove with a hammer drill, as it will not be deep, the plaster will be damaged and it will be more difficult to cover everything up later.

If you have frame walls, then you won’t need a groove at all, since the wires are laid before they are sheathed inside the structure - then their ends just need to be removed from the hole made.

Step 3. Wire routing.

We take a three-core wire, the cross-section of which will correspond to the planned loads, and lay it in the groove. At the same time, it must be fixed so that it does not fall out. For this they use special clips, pieces of wire nailed to the wall and a plaster solution, as in the photo below. The ends of the wire are led out into boxes - distribution and switch.

Wire routing

The switch box is walled into the wall using the same plaster so that its edges are flush with the plane of the wall.

Step 4. Installation of the switch.

Then we take our switch and remove the front panel from it. There will be markings on the back of the product that will help you figure out where and what contact is located.

Switch installation

L is a fixed common contact

We strip the ends of the wire cores from 1.5-2 cm of insulation. We insert one of them into a fixed contact and fix it with a screw connection. Be sure to remember the color of the wire, or better yet, mark its second end in the junction box as the main phase.

We connect the remaining two wires to the remaining terminals in any order.

The spacers keep the switch in the box

We install the switch in the box and fix it by tightening the screws along the edges, which move the spacer elements apart. Some models can simply be screwed to the box with self-tapping screws. Then we put on the front part of the switch, and we don’t come back here anymore.

If your wires have already been connected, and everything has been sealed long ago, then when installing a switch, we act in exactly the same way, only first we need to determine the phase wire using the dialing method. To do this, we use an indicator screwdriver, on which the light bulb will light up when you touch the phase.

Chandelier installation

From the junction box the wire is routed to the point where the lamp is installed. This is done in exactly the same way as wiring on the walls, so we will not repeat it. We’d better name a few rules that should be followed when installing in plasterboard ceilings.

Electrical wiring is not allowed to be connected to metal structures

Many electricians, taking advantage of the opportunity and wanting to make their task easier, tie wires to the ceiling frame. The “masters” believe that they will be reliably protected by PVC corrugation and the original wire insulation. Of course, there is protection, but such installation is strictly prohibited at the regulatory level.

Since the frame is made of metal, it will perfectly transmit current, which can lead to unpredictable consequences. PVC corrugation will not withstand that temperature, which can form in the wire when a short circuit occurs. Therefore, the route can only be driven independently, and only on fireproof surfaces, for example, a concrete ceiling. If the ceiling (base) is made of wood, then laying the wire is allowed only in metal corrugation, which will not burn out during a short circuit. So the installer in the photo above made two critical mistakes.

Advice! The number of wires going to the box from the chandelier is determined by the number of contacts on it.

Installing a chandelier on drywall

Now let's move on to installing our chandelier. Depending on the type of base, different fastening methods are used. Let's look at them using the example of concrete, plasterboard and suspended ceilings.

All differ in shape and weight. These parameters directly affect the fastening system that is used during installation. There are 3 options in total.

1. The first one is hook mount, shown in the photo above. It is used mainly in old models and in chandeliers with small base bowls. Hooks can come in different designs, which will affect the type of base it will fit on.

Locking hook

1. The second method of attaching a chandelier is through the mounting plate. Unlike the hook, this part is always included in the kit. It is fixed to the base with a pair of self-tapping screws.

Mounting strip

1. The third type of fastener is a cross. It differs little in the technical sense from the bar and is used for the largest and heaviest products.

Crosspiece for chandelier

So, all three systems can be installed on any ceilings:

With concrete everything is very clear - we need to attach the mounting parts directly to it, and then hang the chandelier on them. Such ceilings are made up of slabs, inside of which there are round cavities through which the wires are fed to the installation site. At this point, a hole is drilled, the end of the wire is brought out, and a hook is placed in it. The fastener can be wedged directly into the hole, like the one we showed earlier, or attached directly to the ceiling - here you will need a hammer drill and metal anchor wedges for the job.

Hook for direct mounting

Mounting strips and crosspieces are always attached via anchors.

Preparing the frame for mounting a chandelier

Plasterboard and other frame ceilings do not have high strength of the front surface. It is possible to directly install a light lamp or chandelier on the same drywall, but heavy models can deform it, which will lead to cracks or even a fall. To prevent this from happening, special mortgages are made into it even during the assembly of the frame. They can be implemented in different ways, but the meaning will be the same - to directly connect the chandelier mounting system with the permanent base.

The photo above shows that a corner is attached to the concrete ceiling, which holds a hook that passes through the metal profiles.

Advice! The connection to the base does not have to be done through the frame. For example, if it is made of wood, then you can simply find a self-tapping hook of the required length and screw it into the permanent ceiling.

Mounting platforms for suspended ceilings

No one will install suspended ceilings themselves, so the problem of installing a chandelier passes to hired workers, but this information will not harm anyone. Since the tension fabric is not able to withstand loads at all without sagging, mounting platforms are used to install any lighting equipment, which can be purchased ready-made or made yourself from scrap materials. The point of the design is to fix it to the main ceiling and set it a couple of millimeters above the ceiling level. Then, when the canvas is tensioned, holes are made in it inside the pre-glued rings.

Depending on the type of site and fastening system, the equipment is then installed according to the established scheme. It's simple!

Connecting a chandelier

Video - Connect a chandelier to a double switch

We have included the connection in a separate chapter, but in fact it is performed simultaneously with the installation of the device, so we will only name the remaining steps, step by step:

Table 1. Instructions for installing the chandelier.

Next, all connections are isolated and the box is closed. We remind you that all work must be carried out only after preliminary de-energization to avoid injury. Perform a test run of the lighting. If everything works, then our instructions were useful to you!