How to make heated floors with your own hands. Warm floor with infrared heating - what is the principle, how is a heated floor made

Construction own home always involves solving a huge range of problems, and one of the most important is always ensuring a comfortable microclimate in all residential premises. In the harsh winter conditions that characterize most of Russia, organizing an effective heating system becomes a major task.

Most private homeowners prefer the usual water heating schemes, open or closed type, with the installation of radiators in the premises in the required calculated quantity. This scheme is time-tested and has long proven its effectiveness. However, it also has serious disadvantages - uneven heating of rooms and the creation of horizontal convection flows that are not always pleasant. It doesn’t matter, in a private house it is much easier to eliminate such disadvantages than in a city apartment - nothing prevents the owner from making water floor heating with his own hands.

If in a multi-storey building such a modernization of the heating system is not always possible for a number of administrative or purely technological reasons, then in the conditions of individual housing, when you have your own and there are no significant restrictions on the height of the premises, this seems to be a completely feasible task. Of course, it cannot be called completely simple - you will have to carry out a lot of calculations, purchase high-quality materials and equipment, and perform a significant amount of construction and installation work.

Basic design of a water floor heating system

At its core, a water “warm floor” is a system of pipes located under the surface of the floor covering, through which coolant circulates from a common heating circuit.

Schematically, the general “pie” of water floor heating looks like this:

The usual structure of the heated floor “pie”

• The basis for installing a warm water floor is usually a leveling concrete screed (item 1). It may already have its own insulation (for example, expanded clay) or be without it.
• To prevent absolutely unnecessary consumption of thermal energy to warm up the base of the floor or interfloor covering, a layer of effective thermal insulation will be required (item 2). This level is not laid only if thermal insulation is provided by the design of the leveling screed itself.
• Another layer of thermal insulator - foil backing (item 3) will increase the heating efficiency by reflecting the heat flow from the pipes, directing it to warm the upper layers of the floor. In some cases, when using special insulating mats for heated floors, they do without it.
• Heating of a heated floor array is necessarily accompanied by its rather significant temperature expansion. To prevent deformation around the perimeter of the premises, use a special damper tape (item 4), which will serve as a compensator.
• Main element T heated floor - a system of pipes through which the coolant circulates (item 5). In the process of laying out the pipes, they are attached to the thermal insulating substrate with special brackets (item 6) or are fixed by other methods, which will be discussed below.
• Most often, a concrete screed is poured over installed pipelines (item 7). It not only becomes a reliable basis for laying the finishing coating (item 8). The screed will act as a powerful heat accumulator and promote uniform heating of the entire floor surface, so there are certain requirements for its thickness.

Certain changes may be made to the presented diagram. For example, in some cases, when using special components, you can do without pouring the top screed by using the so-called modular design of a heated floor with profile thermo-reflective metal plates.

However, it is not enough to simply lay the pipes - it is necessary to ensure stable circulation of the coolant through them for uniform heat transfer. That's why the most important node underfloor heating is a manifold system, thanks to which the required pressure of the liquid is created and the required temperature is maintained. Usually for these purposes, special manifold cabinets are installed of one or another level of complexity and saturation with automation.

Now, after a brief introduction to common device underfloor heating system, it makes sense to consider all its elements in more detail.

What materials are required for a water heated floor?

Let's leave out the device of the lower leveling screed - this rather relates to general construction work. The main condition is that it ensures a flat and horizontal surface and has appropriate waterproofing. The concrete surface should not have significant flaws (cracks, crevices, potholes, areas of instability, etc.)

In addition, we proceed from the assumption that the starting screed does not have significant insulation. Means, Firstly we have to deal with its thermal insulation. For these purposes, special mats for heated floors are usually used.

Thermal insulation mats for heated floors

Mats for heated floors can be made in several versions.

• In some cases, for example, when installing water heating on the second floor of a house, provided that the rooms on the first floor are heated and the general thermal insulation requirements of the building are met, rolled mats made of foamed polyethylene with a foil coating may be sufficient.

Their thickness is insignificant - about 3 - 5 mm, however, they can effectively insulate the ceiling and redirect the heat flow upward. They are laid end-to-end in strips, with the metallized surface facing up, with obligatory gluing along the seams, preferably with foil tape.

• More reliable in terms of protection against heat loss are slabs made of extruded polystyrene foam. This material has a high density (about 40 kg/m³) and can easily cope with the load placed on it - the weight of pipes with coolant, screed, finishing coating, pieces of furniture and dynamic influences during operation.

As a rule, such slabs have a system of tongue-and-groove locks, which greatly simplifies their installation. The thickness can be different, from 20 to 100 mm - it is always possible to choose the right one, depending on the degree of insulation of the floor base. Typically, for floors on the ground or above unheated basements (basement rooms), a material with a thickness of 50 to 100 mm is used. If there is a heated room below, you can limit the thickness to 30 mm.

• More convenient to use are ready-made mats made from the same extruded (EPS), designed specifically for heated floors. They can be made in the form of rolls like a “tractor caterpillar” or like an “accordion”.

Very often they are immediately coated with foil thermo-reflective layer. Another significant convenience is that many of these mats have marking lines - this will significantly simplify the process of laying out the water circuit.

• The most modern and convenient approach would be the use of profile mats, which are designed taking into account the need to fix the water circuit pipes. They are provided with relief protrusions ( so-called "bobs"), arranged in a specific order. The shape of these bosses can be different, but they are always located in such a way that pipes of the required diameter are securely fixed between them.

The most comfortable are profile mats with polymer coating

The material for the manufacture of such mats is the same EPS, but they usually have a protective polymer coating, which also becomes an additional waterproofing barrier. Such mats have a system of locks for mutual interfacing, which ensures the solidity of the laid layer. Another advantage is that when pouring the finishing screed on top of them, no additional reinforcement will be required - this role will be taken over by the relief of the surface of the mats.

Prices for different types of heating mats

Heating mat

Which pipes will be optimal for heated floors?

Choice quality pipes is the key to effective and safe work water floor heating systems. Taking into account that the contours in most cases are embedded in the screed and access to them makes it impossible to repair or replace the damaged area, the material must be fully suitable for this function and be of exceptionally high quality.

Pipes for underfloor heating circuits must meet a number of mandatory requirements:

• They must have a reliable margin of safety, both to baric internal load and to external applications of forces. The optimal choice is the choice of pipes designed for a pressure of at least 8 bar.
• The use of seam pipes is absolutely excluded. In addition, the contour closed by the screed must be uniform - there should be no welding or threaded connections(with rare exceptions, which will be mentioned below) – this is always “ weakness", in which it is possible that leaks may appear over time or blockages may form.
• High anti-corrosion properties – mandatory requirement. The material must be chemically inert. The weak point is the oxygen diffusion of the material, that is, the penetration of this gas through the walls of the pipe, which leads to the activation of oxidative processes. The best choice is pipes with a well-designed oxygen barrier.
• The inner surface of the pipes should be as smooth as possible so that excessive hydraulic resistance is not created and noise does not arise from the liquid flowing through the circuit.

Which of the modern materials may be suitable for laying a heating circuit:

• First of all, it is immediately necessary to abandon conventional metal HCV pipes, even if they are made of stainless steel - the inadmissibility of joints has already been mentioned.
• Not suitable for heated floors and. This material, of course, is good and inexpensive, but does not have the required flexibility. It will not be possible to bend it in accordance with the intended installation pattern, which means you will have to resort to the use of additional elements. A these are welded joints, the inadmissibility of which has already been discussed. On the Internet you can find photographs of such circuits with assurances of their complete reliability, but there is no need to repeat such adventurism.

• Copper pipes are good for everyone for these purposes - they are flexible, have excellent heat dissipation, and provide reliable roller or soldered joints. However, for all these advantages you will have to pay a very high price, so this type of material is still not widely used.

• Metal-plastic pipes seem to have been specially created for the floor heating system - they are flexible and hold the given bend shape well, have high heat transfer, and are easy to install. However, do not rush to immediately rush to the store to purchase them. The fact is that not every metal plastic is suitable for these purposes. That inexpensive option, which is very popular for creating external plumbing or heating networks, can play a cruel joke in the thickness of the floor. If you wish, you can find photographs with a torn pipe body - and this is a disaster for a circuit walled up in a screed. The main problem is that the market is oversaturated with inexpensive and far from high-quality goods. The aluminum layer in such pipes does not have reliable protection from oxygen exposure, over time it becomes brittle due to corrosion processes, and may not be able to cope with the pressure of the coolant.

RE-Ha pipe made of cross-linked polyethylene

• Modern cross-linked polyethylene pipes are a good choice. Special chemical treatment of the polymer creates multiple additional intermolecular bonds, and the material acquires the highest resistance to baric loads without losing its elasticity.

The symbol “PE-X” indicates the “cross-linking” of polyethylene. From the point of view of quality, the best performance is achieved by the material “PE-Ha”, which is treated with peroxide – the maximum percentage of “cross-linking” is achieved - up to 85%.

The material is very flexible, which makes it possible to lay it with a loop of only 150 mm in diameter. It is produced in large coils, and this allows you to create a solid contour of any required length.

The best option, combining the advantages of metal plastic and cross-linked polyethylene

• Maybe, the most optimal The choice for a heated floor contour would be pipes that combine the advantages of metal-plastic and cross-linked polyethylene. They have a multilayer structure - internal and outer layer made of PE-X, and between them, on on reliable adhesive based, there is a layer of aluminum welded using TIG technology (in a protective gas environment). Moreover, many manufacturers additionally equip their products with an intermediate oxygen barrier (EVON technology). This prevents corrosion of the aluminum layer.

Such combined pipes are usually marked PEX-Al-PEX. You can always buy everything for them necessary components for connection to the heating system manifold.

• Another option for t rub is corrugated stainless steel. This is a relative novelty, but has already earned good reviews from masters involved in heated floors. Such pipes have excellent flexibility, high heat transfer, reliability, protection from external influences due to the polymer film internal and outer covering. Moreover, they are equipped with a system of fitting connections of such a degree of reliability that such joints can be removed into the thickness of the screed without fear of leakage. The only negative is that it is still extremely high price for similar material.

Preliminary calculation and drawing up a floor laying plan

All practical actions installation of heated floors must be preceded by compulsory preparation diagrams of its installation and necessary calculations.

• Before drawing up the diagram, the location of the manifold cabinet must be determined - this is the point where both ends of all circuits should be brought out. The location of this unit should ensure ease of maintenance and ease of supply of pipes from the boiler or existing heating system. Most likely, you will need a power connection point to operate the circulation pump. Typically, cabinets are placed so that they do not spoil the interior of the room - in a hidden place or by putting them into the wall. The height above the floor level is usually 200 ÷ 300 mm.
• For floor heating circuits, pipes with a diameter of 16 or 20 mm (in rare cases - 25 mm) are usually used. As a rule, 16 mm pipes are used when underfloor heating is planned as an additional element of the home heating system, 20 mm - if such heating becomes the main source of heat in the room.
• As already noted, the contour must be solid, without joints, but its length has certain limitations. You should not make a circuit with a 16 mm pipe longer than 50 ÷ 70 m, and with a 20 mm pipe - the limit is 100 m. This is explained by the fact that the force of internal hydraulic resistance over a too long section may exceed the liquid pressure created by the pump, resulting in a “closed loop” effect through which coolant circulation will become impossible. If for existing sizes a room of this length is not enough; you will have to lay two or even more circuits connected to one collector.

There are two basic schemes for laying the contours of a heated floor - “snake” and “snail”.

Basic pipe layouts - “snail” and “snake”

From the point of view of ease of installation, “snake” is, of course, preferable. However, this scheme is characterized by pronounced uneven heating of the floor - with distance from the beginning of the supply, the temperature of the coolant decreases noticeably.

When laying “snake”, the supply and return pipes are located parallel to each other, and thereby the temperature difference in them is compensated. True, for this you will have to work a little more when preliminary drawing the diagram and directly when laying the pipes in order to avoid mistakes.

Based on these basic patterns, many other variations of the styling pattern have been developed.

• The next important point on which the number of required pipes depends is the step of their installation. Depending on the degree thermal insulation premises, medium winter temperatures in the region, the tasks facing the underfloor heating system (main or additional heating) this value can vary from 100 to 500 mm. It is difficult to independently determine this value taking into account all the criteria - the system thermal calculations quite cumbersome. However, on the Internet you can find special ones that allow you to carry out similar calculations with necessary level accuracy. It should be noted that placing pipes too often is an unnecessary waste of material and energy resources. And if the loops of the circuit are too far from each other, a “zebra effect” occurs - alternating cold and heated areas of the floor.

If necessary, you can apply differentiated approach. In places where it is necessary to create zones of increased comfort or maximum heating (in the coldest areas), you can use a minimum laying step, but increase it in other areas of the room.

• When drawing up a diagram, you should provide for indentations from the walls (so as not to waste energy on heating these very heat-intensive structures). Typically, the pipe closest to the wall is located at a distance of 300 mm. You should not plan to place the circuit under permanently installed pieces of furniture.
• If you intend to lay several circuits connected to a single collector, then ideally they should be the same length - this will ensure uniform circulation through them. In any case, the excess length should not be more than 10-15 meters. However, sometimes this can be solved by installing special balancing fittings.
• Be sure to immediately calculate to what height the floor level will rise, whether the doors will open normally, or whether certain adjustments will have to be made to their design. And the total rise in level can be quite significant:

— The thickness of the insulating layer used – mats and substrate – is taken into account. This can already give 30 ÷ 100 mm of height.

— Mandatory concrete screed on top of the pipes. In order for the underfloor heating system to be effective, it is recommended to provide a thickness of this layer from 30 mm (for 16 mm pipes) to 45 mm (for 20 mm). Important nuance – we're talking about about the height of the screed from the top edge of the pipes. Thus, taking into account their diameter, we obtain a screed with a thickness of approximately 50 and 70 mm, respectively.

- if you add the thickness of the selected finishing coating, you will get the total amount of rise in the level of the floor surface.

• When using several circuits in one room, it is advisable to provide a compensatory gap in the screed between them. A similar approach is also necessary if the total length of the room exceeds 6 meters - it will be necessary to divide it into two sections, separating them with a damping joint, which must be filled with an elastic sealing compound.

In these places, it will be necessary to install pipes in a sleeve, the length of which on each side must be at least 150 - 200 mm.

Typically, a polymer corrugated tube of the appropriate diameter is used for this. Similar sleeves (pedestals) must also be installed if it is necessary to pass a pipe through the walls of the room.

• It is necessary to immediately consider a system for fixing pipes to insulating mats. There are no problems with profile mats - everything is already provided there. On flat mats you can do this in several ways.

One way or another, the screed will require reinforcement. Therefore, you can first lay a reinforcing metal mesh, and tie the pipes to them with plastic flexible clamps.

Special fastening brackets with “harpoon” tips are sold, which are convenient for fastening pipes to the polystyrene foam insulating substrate.

Pipe fixed with a harpoon bracket

It is convenient to use special mounting rails, metal or plastic, on which grooves or clamps for pipes of clamp or petal type are located.

Based on the drawn up diagram, you can easily calculate the required amount of material - pipes, insulating mats, mounting rails, damper tape and other elements. The required margin for supplying circuits to the manifold cabinet and connecting them to it must be taken into account.

Video: typical mistakes when designing a heated water floor

What is a collector unit?

It would be a serious mistake to believe that it is enough to connect the laid heated floor circuits to the heating pipes or to the boiler, and the system will immediately work in optimal mode. Its correct functioning is possible only if the required pressure is created, the distribution of coolant flows is well-established and balanced, and the required temperature conditions are observed. These are the functions that the collector unit must perform. It includes many devices, instruments and devices.

• As a rule, it includes a circulation pump. The pump that stands next to the heating boiler is unlikely to be able to cope with the task of providing the required pressure in all circuits - both in radiators and in heated floors. It is more expedient to provide a separate device that will be responsible for a certain area of ​​the house, connected to one collector.
• The temperature of the water in the radiators and in the heated floor circuits is completely different requirements. So, in convection devices the coolant can reach 70 - 80 degrees, but for floor heating this is unacceptable. It is considered normal to heat the floor surface to 27 - 29 ºС in residential premises, and a little higher - up to 35 ºС, in service, special or passage areas, where tiles are laid. Exceeding these indicators leads to a violation of the integrity of the screed due to its overheating, deformation and drying out of the decorative floor covering.

To maintain the required temperature level in the manifold cabinets, a regulation system is implemented using thermostats based on mechanical or electromechanical two-, three-, or even four-way valves. In these devices, the coolant from the half-summer pipe is mixed with the already cooled coolant from the return.

The control can be carried out manually or in automatic mode, when such a faucet is equipped with a servo drive connected to an electronic temperature sensor.

• The circuit pipes are connected to the combs of the supply and return manifolds. For the necessary balancing of pressure in circuits of different lengths, as well as for turning off any circuits if necessary, valves are provided.
• The operation of the heating system may be accompanied by the release of dissolved gases of their coolant. To avoid the occurrence of traffic jams, an automatic air vent valve.
• Instruments for visual monitoring of the operation of the system - a pressure gauge and a thermometer - will never be superfluous.
• It is possible to provide for the independence of the heated floor circuits from the general heating system. This becomes possible when installing a heat exchanger.

In this case, the circuits have a limited volume of coolant that receives the required heating from the general system. Such a warm floor is easier to regulate, but, however, it will require the installation of an additional safety group - a pressure valve and a membrane tank.

Correctly assembling and adjusting the mixing-collector unit is a task of high complexity. However, there is a way out - you can purchase ready-made kits designed for a particular area of ​​the room, the number of connection circuits, with varying degrees of equipment with automatic or manual control and adjustment systems.

Video: operation of a heated floor mixing-collector unit

After the manifold cabinet has been selected, purchased and installed in the place specified in the diagram, you can proceed to the process of laying the pipes of the heated floor circuits.

Laying heated floor pipes

• Work always begins with a thorough cleaning of the room - there should be no debris or dust on the surface of the base concrete screed. If this has not been done before, priming is performed with a deep penetration compound - this will strengthen and remove dust from the surface, and give it additional waterproofing qualities.
• A damper tape with a thickness of at least 5 mm is glued to the walls around the perimeter of the room. If the length of the room is more than 10 mm, the thickness should be increased based on:

h= L× 0.55 (h is the thickness of the compensation gap, L is the length of the room).

The height of the tape should correspond to the total thickness of the future floor, taking into account the screed and finishing coating + 5 mm.

• The next step is styling. Thin roll material laid end-to-end with the joints sealed with tape. When using EPS mats, they are joined with interlocking parts. If necessary, you can fix them to the floor surface with polyurethane glue. It is impossible to use adhesive compositions based on organic solvents - they will cause chemical decomposition of polystyrene.

• The joints between the laid mats are taped with waterproof tape. This step is not necessary when using profile mats - the locking system ensures the reliability of their pairing.
• If the EPS does not have an external coating, a layer of thin foil backing is covered (metalized layer up), with the joints sealed with tape.
• If flat mats are used, and the pipes are attached to the fittings, a metal mesh with cells of about 100 × 100 mm is laid. If mounting strips or plastic retaining brackets are used, the reinforcing mesh can be installed later by placing it on pads (stands) so that it is approximately centered between the pipes and the surface of the screed.
• It is advisable to transfer the layout of the contours to the laid out surface in accordance with the drawn up diagram and carefully check its correctness. A marking grid applied to some types of mats can be of great help here.
• One of the most difficult aspects is the correct laying of pipe contours. It is better to do this kind of work together - one unwinds the coil, and the other immediately fixes the coil with staples, between the bosses of the profile mat or in the mounting rails. The manifold cabinet usually leaves a margin of about 500 mm at both ends of the pipe.

Rushing in this process is disastrous - an incorrectly laid circuit (for example, an error led to an unacceptable intersection of pipes) is very problematic to redo.

• After laying the circuits according to the diagram and carefully checking its correctness, you can connect the pipes to the collectors using standard fittings. When making such an insertion, it is necessary to ensure that unnecessary stress is not created in the pipes (they cannot be connected “pull-in”), and that they themselves do not protrude above the surface of the planned screed.

Checking the integrity of the contours and filling the screed

• After the pipe circuits are laid and connected to the manifold combs, it is necessary to ensure that all connections are tight. To do this, the system is filled with coolant, sequentially each circuit through the supply comb, achieving complete air release, for which the corresponding valve is opened.
• The next step is hydraulic testing, or as they are more often called,
• Before starting crimping, it is recommended to temporarily remove air vents and plug the holes. Otherwise, they may fail, since they are designed only for a certain operating pressure.

The crimping process for different types of pipes has its own nuances.

— If metal-plastic pipes were used in the circuits, then the pressure in the system should be set to 6 bar. A pressure gauge installed in the manifold cabinet will allow visual inspection. If after 24 hours no pressure drop is recorded, the test is considered successful. If leaks are detected, the connections are tightened and the test is repeated.

— With cross-linked polyethylene pipes the process is somewhat more complicated. Initially, the pressure also rises to 6 bar. It inevitably begins to decrease due to the plasticity of the pipes, and after 30 minutes it should be raised again to the specified value. A similar cycle is carried out 3 more times. Then, after waiting another hour and a half, the pressure is again raised to 6 bar and the system is left for a day. A fall of no more than 1 is considered acceptable. 5 bar, but, of course, with a guaranteed absence of leaks.

• It is recommended to check the pipes and in extreme temperature conditions. To do this, they are filled with hot coolant (with a temperature of about 80 ºC) with the same test pressure. A similar measure allows us to identify unreliability of individual fitting connections that require additional tightening. In addition, such heating will relieve excess stress in the pipes.

Once this is completed and possible identified deficiencies have been eliminated, you can proceed to pouring the screed. There is no need to drain the water from their system - this will protect the pipes from deformation that can occur from the pressure of uncured concrete. After the screed has set, the load will be evenly distributed, which will no longer pose a danger to the integrity of the pipes.

• best used special compounds, adapted specifically for heated floors. They contain plasticizers that ensure uniform filling without the formation of air bubbles (this is especially important when filling “difficult” places - near pipes, bosses of profile mats or mounting strips. In addition, the mixture contains microfiber, which creates reliable internal micro-reinforcement of concrete, increasing its strength under temperature changes.
• The screed is in progress in the usual way– with the installation of beacons and guides to ensure horizontality and evenness of the resulting coating.
• The maturation of the screed usually takes from 3 to 4 weeks, depending on the solution used. It is unacceptable to speed up this process by heating the screed with heated floor contours.

Putting a heated floor into operation is carried out only after the screed is completely ready. To do this, the entire system is brought back to normal condition, all removed elements are installed, connections are checked, and accumulated air is released.

You cannot immediately turn on the heated floor full power– it is necessary to give both the pipes and the screed time to gradually adapt. First, you should set the heating temperature to no more than 20 ºС. Every day you can raise it by 5 degrees, bringing it to the calculated level.

If everything is functioning normally, you can proceed to laying the final floor covering.

Video: example of installing a heated water floor system

Today, no one is surprised at houses that have underfloor heating. A do-it-yourself water floor is often the pride of home owners. In just a few years, such heating has gone from being a curiosity to standard way heating residential premises. Today, almost every home has heated film, water or electric floors. There are even projects multi-storey buildings, whose projects include the installation of a warm water floor.

Do-it-yourself installation algorithm: floor preparation, thermal insulation, pipe laying, installation of concrete screed.

The situation is more complicated in old houses. Firstly, not every management company will allow reconstruction of already existing system central heating. Secondly, installing an additional boiler in an apartment with central heating is quite expensive. Still, such an installation is possible provided that the apartment owner obtains the appropriate permits. And in order for the floors to be put into operation legally, you need to obtain permission from the Housing Office. What other documents are required to arrange such heating? What rules do you need to know?

Project: desirable or mandatory?

To set up such a system, it is best to make a project. If the system is not the main type of heating and occupies an area of ​​less than 20 m², then the project is not necessary. If the pipes cover more than 20 m² or are the main source of heat in the room, a project is required. Without it, permission to accept the floors into operation will not be issued. But experienced specialists They know: even if someone plans to install water floor heating with their own hands, it is better to start with a project. There are several reasons for this:

• the lack of a project may cause failure when putting the floor into operation;
• if the system is installed with the help of hired workers, an agreement can only be concluded with them on the basis of the project;
• if the heating is assembled with your own hands, the project will help to properly organize the work, streamline it, and reduce the amount of money for the purchase of materials and equipment.

How? The project is carried out on the basis of thermal calculations that help determine the power of the required equipment. After all, excess capacity means excess costs.

Thermal calculations are carried out before drawing up the project, and it is better to have a specialist do this, even if you plan to install the floors yourself. What documents are needed for heat calculations?

• a complete plan of the house (each floor) indicating the number and sizes of windows and doors;
• characteristics of the material from which the external walls are made;
• on the plan it is necessary to mark the location of the boiler installation, the layout of the risers and outlets already in the house;
• Information about required temperature and places where furniture is installed.

Only with this information in hand will designers be able to calculate what equipment is best to use to ensure that water floor heating creates a comfortable temperature in the house.

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What should be included in the installation plan?

Some unscrupulous designers “miss” important aspects of the project or “forget” to coordinate them with customers. This is what is important to know when taking a ready-made calculation into action.

1. All rooms in which water floor heating will be installed must be divided into sections. The maximum area of ​​a “regular” field (with an aspect ratio of 1:2) cannot exceed 40 m². If the premises have the shape of the letter “L” or the letter “P”, then they are divided into sections regardless of the area. This is necessary so that materials that expand when heated do not destroy cement screed, on which heating will be arranged.
2. Expansion joints should be taken into account and marked on the diagram. They run along the boundaries of the areas and are filled with polyurethane, damper tape or other similar materials. These seams are the spaces between the boundaries of areas, as well as between floors and room walls. Only two circuits can pass through these seams: supply and return. To lay pipes in them, you need to use rigid corrugated casings.
3. Installation of such heated floors can be “dry” or “wet”. It is necessary to agree with the designer which of these two technologies will be used during installation.
4. The finishing coating of the floors will depend on the heating temperature of the pipes. Parquet, for example, cannot be laid on a surface whose temperature is higher than 25°C. Therefore, if a higher floor temperature is required, they choose not parquet, but other finishing decorative coatings (tiles). If the temperature of the pipes is planned to be even higher, then it is best to move them to the wall.

Only after all these details have been agreed upon with the customer can the designer begin the project.

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Package of documents for arranging a water floor

Before starting work, the customer (or the master, if the heating is being installed with his own hands) must have a package of documents:

Heating plan for the entire house (see Fig. 1).

The description attached to it must include:

1. Dimensions of radiators, their locations.
2. Placement and configuration of pipes indicating their material, diameter, length.
3. Pipe laying pitch, length and diameter of each circuit, coolant temperature.
4. The temperature that the pipes must provide in each room.
5. Parameters of the automation used.
6. Parameters of concrete screed.
7. Sequence of actions during installation.

Specification

If the calculations are carried out by the designer, then it is he who prepares the specification. If you do the floor yourself, then you still need to make such a list: it takes into account everything that is needed to set up water heating. The list lists everything necessary details, materials, their quantity (see Fig. 2).

additional information

The package of documents must also indicate how the pipes will be laid (snake or spiral), what decorative coating will be on the floor, what liquids will circulate in the system: ordinary water, distilled or antifreeze.

Only with all this information in hand can you begin to install underfloor heating.

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Snake or spiral?

Which pipe laying option is better to choose? The last word remains with the owner of the premises. To make his choice, he must take into account the features of both techniques.

Laying with a snake (see Fig. 3) gives uneven heating of the floor. This method is best used in small spaces. It should be taken into account that the pipes heat up the most at the beginning of the system. To ensure the same temperature throughout the room, water heating begins to be installed from the very cold wall(edge ​​or border zone). At this point, the pitch between the pipes is reduced: if it is usually 300 mm, then near the boundary zone it is better to lay the pipes at a distance of 200 mm from each other. If you take a step more than 30 cm, you will get a “zebra effect”. This means that between the warm areas above the pipes, areas with lower temperatures will form.

To ensure that the floors in a large room are heated evenly, the pipes are laid in a double snake or even a spiral (see Fig. 4). When laying spirally, the supply and discharge ends are laid parallel so that the temperature is hot and cold pipe compensated. The spiral is suitable for rooms with very high temperatures. The pitch between pipes should be less than 200 mm: the minimum bending radius for a Ø20 mm pipe is only 100 mm.

Regardless of the chosen installation method, the pitch between pipes is reduced in the boundary zones. There are integrated and separate edge zones, the latter are formed using just one loop with a reduced pitch. To organize integrated ones, several loops are laid. This method is relevant for rooms with a very large area.

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DIY installation algorithm

1. Preparing the floor.

First, remove the old coating down to the subfloor. It is cleaned of debris and dust. If there are large defects (dents, deep cracks), fillings made of expanded clay and concrete are applied to them. Target preparatory work: make subfloors perfectly smooth, even, and clean.

2. Thermal insulation.

To prevent the pipes from giving off heat in all directions at once, thermal insulation is installed on the subfloor. Suitable materials include polystyrene foam, penoplex, stone wool or other thermal insulators. The insulation must be laid in an even layer to ensure correct location pipes A damper tape is laid on top of the thermal insulation. It compensates for different expansion coefficients of the subfloor and fillings applied to cracks.

3. Pipe laying.

The reinforcing mesh is fixed to the damper tape using fastening wire. Pipes are laid in a snake, double snake or spiral. Start at the end of the pipe that connects to the supply manifold. The pipes are secured with clamps every m. When tightening the clamps, you need to remember that when heated, all materials expand. A clamp that is too tight during operation can damage the pipe.

As soon as all the pipes are occupied the right places, test the system.

To do this, water is supplied at a pressure 2-2.5 times higher than the operating pressure. All shortcomings will immediately become visible and can be eliminated.

4. Installation of concrete screed.

For it, concrete with special plasticizers is used. Without them, the coating will crack very quickly. The screed can be done dry or wet. If you do the work yourself, it is better to choose the dry method, when the pipes are covered with expanded clay or other bulk materials, on top of which coating sheets are laid. A dry screed is easier to install, faster and does not put as much stress on the floor as a classic “wet” screed. It is characterized by good soundproofing qualities, it is easier to work with and bulk materials are cheaper.

For classic screed The mixture is applied to the floor and leveled with a trowel. This screed should dry well. If the thickness is less than 4 cm, it will take a week to dry 1 cm. For larger thicknesses, the drying time can be calculated using the Faust formula: the square of the screed layer size multiplied by a factor of 1.6.

Warm water floors, or as they are often called - heated water floors - have become a completely familiar definition of interiors not only for wealthy owners, but also for most owners of ordinary apartments. If twenty years ago this was perceived as something unusual, today day like common occurrence, which does not go beyond the standard set for the maximum comfortable stay. In the areas of recent medical research, a lively debate has arisen regarding the benefits of such sexes for the human body. Most scientists have come to the conclusion that the heat emitted by a heated water floor disrupts the natural blood circulation in the pelvic organs and lower extremities.

But of course not real evidence that this is true. Just as there is no evidence of harm from microwave ovens or mobile phones. Therefore, water floor heating is no less in demand today than in the last decade.

All devices for warm water floors can be divided into three classes:

• 1. Warm floors using water heating;
• 2. Warm floors using electric heating;
• 3. Warm floors using infrared radiation.

Electric floor heating or water heated floor – what to choose? Of course, electric heating is not considered as an option for cost-effective underfloor heating, since electricity rises in price much faster than other heat sources. There is no difference in what method is carried out in the transfer of thermal energy - combined heat radiation with electrical heating in the form of a mat or cable, or direct radiation from the surface infrared film.

That is why water floor heating is considered the most economical and in a safe way space heating.

Moreover, if the system is installed correctly, the manufacturers guarantee 50 years uninterrupted operation all elements of the device.

Design features

The main difference between warm water floors and electric ones is the heating element. In a heated water floor there is a pipeline laid in a screed through which hot water passes. And in warm electric floors, the heating element is a special heating cable, to which a certain voltage is applied. It is worth considering that the hot water that circulates in heated water floor heating systems is acceptable hazardous environment, the elements enclosed in a very thin shell of a special pipeline, there are significant limitations on the possibility of installing warm water floors in private and multi-storey buildings.

For example, it is strictly forbidden to install heated water floors in apartments that are located above the first floor. Despite the fact that there are no other non-residential or residential premises in the basement or basement. Water floors must not be inserted into the return water circulation or central heating system.

Such restrictions significantly narrow the scope of real estate in which heated water floors can be installed. It looks something like this. If you are going to build own house, then you have the opportunity to install water floor heating on all floors. In the event of a flood or pipeline rupture, you will not harm anyone but yourself, and only you will need to solve the problems. If you live on the first floor of a multi-storey building, and there is an ordinary one below you, then you can also safely install warm water floors.

There is another feature of warm water floors when the installation is connected with the installation of cement mortar. It’s worth noting that it’s not just any random one, but a “floating” one. So, what is the fundamental difference? The difference lies in the complexity of the installation itself and the preparation for it. Since first it is necessary to dismantle the old floor covering to the floor slab. If your home has ceilings made according to wooden joists, then you can immediately forget about warm water floors.

Water floor heating only involves concrete floors, because it will be necessary to install a new cement screed, which causes a significant load on the floors.

If you have concrete base, and you live on the ground floor, you can start laying a multi-layer sandwich of thermal insulation, waterproofing and compensation tapes, along which you will need to lay a pipeline suitable for wiring and lead it to the collector. Next, the whole thing is pressed and finally filled with concrete screed.

The solution used to fill the screed can be completely different. But most often they use a “self-leveling” solution. Work that requires the use of special equipment. Which, of course, is reflected in the cost per square meter. In addition, after pouring the floors, they should not be used for another month, or at least until the solution reaches the necessary strength characteristics.

Self-installation of warm water floors

In order to install a warm water floor system yourself, you must carefully study the installation and correction instructions possible problems in system. You need to know that there are guides with answers to absolutely all questions. You must understand that a heated water floor is individual approach in the installation of the entire system.

If you master all the nuances and some secrets in installing heated water floor systems, you can easily install heated floors yourself and achieve maximum heat transfer from such floors. It is worth remembering that water heated floors can function as both the main source of heating and an additional one, therefore, in order not to freeze in winter, you need to take this matter seriously in summer. Every summer, when the heating is turned off, it is necessary to carry out preventive work to help proper operation the entire system.

"is quickly gaining popularity. It is much more pleasant to walk on a warm surface without the fear of catching a cold. You can make such a system with your own hands. Let's talk about this.

There are three types of underfloor heating. Each type of design has its own disadvantages and advantages. Let's try to figure out which ones exactly.

The electrically heated system includes a temperature controller and electrical cable. The difficulty lies in making the tie after laying the wires. The procedure itself is simple. Other disadvantages include a sufficient amount of energy consumed from the network and radiation that “comes” from the cable.

Electrically heated floor

You can save money by installing the “” system. The design consists of a large number plastic pipes, which contain water. The advantages include: no radiation, no electricity consumption, low cost. Installing the system yourself is more difficult than in the first case. What you should be wary of is that the pipes may burst and the neighbors below will be flooded.

Infrared floor

Installation of a water floor

After carrying out the calculations and preparing the tools, you can begin. Consider a concrete system.

Floor installation is divided into several stages:

1. Dividing the room into zones, approximately forty square meters;
2. Laying insulation on a rough surface;
3. Installation of pipe contours and laying of reinforcing mesh;
4. Pressure testing works;
5. Concrete screed;
6. Laying the final floor covering.

Breakdown into zones

The maximum area of ​​one plot is forty square meters. Aspect ratio – 1:2. This is necessary to avoid cracking of the screed.

Insulation coating

Thermal insulation material is laid on the cleaned and leveled surface. It is necessary to ensure that some of the heat does not escape from the room through cracks in the floor. Instead, it will rise towards the ceiling.

Laying thermal insulation for heated floors

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer should not be less than three centimeters, but the maximum thickness can reach up to fifteen. It all depends on the amount of heat lost and the design of the room.

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer should not be less than 3 cm.,
the maximum thickness can reach up to 15 cm.
It all depends on the amount of heat lost and the design of the room.

The damper tape is laid around the perimeter of the room. After this, a polyethylene film is laid on the layer of thermal insulation material.

To protect the pipe from damage, it can be inserted into a corrugated pipe. They can be laid in a spiral, snake or other way.

Pressure testing works

Crimping is necessary to identify mechanical damage. Carried out under pressure.

Concreting

The penultimate stage is pouring the concrete screed. Only carried out when accuracy has been verified preliminary work and all shortcomings, if any, were corrected. When concreting, the system must be under a pressure of 4 bar.

The thickness of the screed is up to 70 millimeters. Made from a mixture of sand and concrete or other components.

Laying the final coating

The last stage is laying the finished floor. This is done immediately after the screed has dried. For these purposes, you can use any material, taking into account taste preferences: parquet, and so on.

If you do not have experience in carrying out this type of work, you will have to call specialists. During installation, you can carefully observe the process in order to subsequently put the acquired knowledge into practice.

During construction or renovation, specialists are increasingly abandoning the classical heating scheme in favor of innovation system floor heating. Heated floors - modern, comfortable, effective method make your home warm and comfortable at any time of the year, without disturbing the style of the interior. This technology is widely used in residential, office and industrial settings.

Conventional heating includes radiators that heat the air only near the window. In this case, as a result of convection, a warm flow rises from the heating devices, gradually cools and falls down, returning along the floor to the radiator. With this heating scheme, the heat distribution is uneven, the warmest place is near the ceiling, and the coldest place is at the bottom.

A warm floor consists of a base, a heating element distributed throughout the room, auxiliary elements (sensors, thermostats, couplings) and a decorative covering. The floor is heated evenly throughout the room to the same temperature.

Advantages of a “warm” floor:

• large heat transfer area;
• no convection;
• reduction of humidity;
• possibility of regulation in separate rooms;
• environmental friendliness;
• safety (subject to compliance with installation techniques).

On a note: Underfloor heating can be the sole or auxiliary heating system.

Disadvantages of "warm floor":

• clear requirements for finishing;
• high cost of the system and installation;
• the need to dismantle the top covering during repairs.

Classification of heating elements

Depending on the heating element, heated floors are divided into several types, each of which has its own installation features.

Table 1. Types of heated floors

Properties	Water heated floor		Cable heated floor
Heating element type	Hot water pipes	IR film, IR rods	Cable
Installation time	From 4-5 days	1 day	1 day
Application	Floor	Floor, ceiling, walls.	Floor
Repair		Only defective segments can be repaired; the rest of the system works	If a single section is damaged, the entire system fails.
Maintenance	Required	Not required	Not required
Zoning	Impossible	Maybe	Maybe
Installation cost	High installation costs, low operating costs	High equipment costs, low operating costs	Relatively inexpensive installation high costs for electricity
Possibility of use in multi-storey buildings	No	Yes	Yes
Life time	Up to 50 years	Up to 15 years	Up to 25 years

Prices for heated floors Warmstad

Warmstad floor heating

Electric heated floors: detailed characteristics

The most common system today is electric floor heating. A variety of cables that convert current energy into heat are a heating element. Installation of thermal insulation, grounding, and installation of thermostats of varying complexity are required. Automatic sensors are capable of turning on power to the system when the temperature drops, and the thermostat maintains the set parameters on the surface. Compact system control and adjustment saves space; connections are made for each room separately.

On a note: system installation electric heating does not require approval if the total power consumption does not exceed 15 kW.

Advantages of electric heated floors:

• this is the best option for an apartment (the risks of causing inconvenience to neighbors are minimized; installation does not need to be coordinated);
• heat up quickly when turned on;
• the ability to maintain a constant temperature;
• safety;
• compactness of adjustment devices;
• Ease of Management;
• long service life.

Main disadvantage such a system - the high cost of electricity, even with high-quality insulation premises operating costs will be significant.

Cable type electric heated floor

For installation of heated floors, resistive or self-regulating types cable. They are used in rooms with complex layouts, since they can be laid in any configuration.

When choosing the type of cable, the heat transfer power, as well as the area and volume of the room, are taken into account.

In a single-core resistive cable, heat is generated by one conductive core. It heats up quickly and has a constant heat transfer along its length; overheating is possible in certain areas. Such a cable is connected to electricity from both sides, i.e. When installing, you need to lay it out in a loop so that the beginning and end meet in one place, or lay another supply wire. This is the most cheap option, but it emits strong electromagnetic radiation.

Twin-core resistive cable consists of two cores, one is used to generate heat (then the other will be a conductive element) or both. It has two layers of insulation, which eliminates short circuit. A two-core cable is more convenient to use; power is supplied only from one end, and a sealed coupling is installed on the other. It has a higher degree of electromagnetic protection.

Resistive cables are characterized by their simplicity of design, low price, increased power and stability of characteristics throughout the entire service life. But they are sold in pieces of a certain length, they cannot be cut in any way, so if one section breaks, you have to replace the entire section.

Self-regulating heating cable has a different operating principle and structure. It changes heating power when the surrounding temperature changes, ensuring uniform heating of the entire floor surface at minimum costs electricity. The design of such a cable is more complex: in addition to the current-carrying cores, it contains a polymer semiconductor matrix, which is a heating element and allows you to regulate the temperature. In the event of a breakdown, only a section of the cable can be replaced. This heating element is highly protected, safe and durable. Possessing significant heating power, the self-regulating cable is economical; when laying, it can be cut into sections of any length. The disadvantage is the high price.

Electrical cable systems are widely used in combination with any decorative coating.

Heating resistive mats

The heating mat is a fiberglass mesh base with a two-core cable attached to it. They simplify and speed up the installation of heated floors, since the cable along them is already fixed at a certain pitch. Porcelain stoneware or granite tiles are ideally combined with this system as a decorative floor ceramic tile, in this case no additional screed is made, and the heating element is mounted in a layer of tile adhesive. It is reliable, durable and safe technology creating a warm floor.

It is very convenient to use mats in certain areas - in the kitchen, in the bathroom, in the hallway where you take off your shoes. Although they are also used as the only source of heating for the entire room. It is necessary to carefully consider the selection of the power of the mats, high-quality cable and regulators. In order not to waste electricity, you need to choose mats so that at the lowest power they heat the room to the desired temperature.

When choosing quality materials, correct installation and operation, this type of “warm floor” is durable and reliable.

Warm floor infrared operating principle

Infrared flooring is universal and suitable for any type of housing.

It differs in the method of energy transfer; heat transfer occurs through exposure electric current on carbon elements, thereby creating infrared radiation, which heats the floor.

Two types of infrared elements are used:

• film;
• rod-shaped

Film - a thin polymer film, inside of which copper conductive busbars are located and graphite paste is sealed. The thickness of this film is less than 5 mm. The heating intensity is controlled using a regulator.

The great advantage of infrared film is its simple installation. No screed is required, but a layer of heat-reflecting substrate must be laid underneath.

Infrared heated floors are efficient, economical and reliable. The film is characterized by high heat transfer with low energy consumption.

The disadvantage of IR film is that it is afraid of overheating (200°C and above), so it is not placed under heavy household appliances and furniture.

Rod infrared mats are tubes filled with a carbon composition, which are connected in parallel to two current-carrying busbars in polymer insulation.

Each rod functions independently, and if one or more of them breaks, the system will still work. Carbon rods self-regulate as temperature changes external environment the amount of heat generated changes. The system must include a thermostat and a floor temperature sensor; if they are not installed, the heating elements will operate constantly at the same power, and this is not economically profitable.

Advantages of rod infrared mats:

• ease of installation;
• efficiency (electricity costs are up to 60% less compared to cable systems);
• versatility of use;
• the ability to combine with any decorative coating;
• environmental friendliness and fire safety;
• the room warms up quickly and evenly.

The disadvantages are the high price and short service life - up to 10 years.

Calculation of electric heated floor

It is necessary to determine the optimal power of a heated floor in order to ensure a comfortable temperature in the room with minimal electricity costs.

Let's use the formula:

Р= S floor xР 0

where P is the power of the heated floor, W; S floor – usable area of ​​the room, m²; P 0 – power density, W/m².

The useful area of ​​the room is the area free of furniture and heavy objects, on which a heated floor is laid.

We take the specific power according to the reference table depending on the room; these data are used if the warm floor will be additional heating. For main heating, the power is 160 – 180 W/m².

Table 2. Power density

Let's look at an example. Given: living room on the 2nd floor, area 25 m², furniture occupies 4.2 m². You need to find the power of the heated floor, provided that this is an additional source of heating.

S floor = 25 - 4.2 = 20.8 m²

According to the table we take P 0 = 120 W/m².

P = 20.8x120 = 2496 W

You can also use an online calculator to determine the power of a heated floor.

We consider the technology for laying electric heated floors in our

How to make an infrared heated floor

Step 1. To perform the installation correctly, you need to draw a floor plan of the room, mark the areas where the furniture will be located, and calculate the area where the IR film will be laid. At the same time, you need to know that if the IR system is the only source of heating in the room, then the film should occupy 80% of the area, if an additional one - 40-50%.

It is necessary to place sections on the usable area in such a way that they fill the entire room as much as possible, but do not intersect. An indentation of 15–20 cm is made from each wall. It is optimal to arrange the strips in length (no more than 8 m) in order to minimize the number of connection points; a transverse arrangement is also allowed.

Step 2. When choosing materials, take into account that the power of the film is selected depending on the decorative floor covering, room and type of heating system.

Table 3. Thermal film power

For saunas and industrial use, a film with a power of more than 220 W/m² is intended.

It is optimal to choose a film with a thickness of 0.3 mm; it is durable and resistant to deformation. For a small room, it is advisable to purchase material 50 cm wide.

A set of warm infrared floors includes: thermostat, temperature sensors, connecting clips, cables, IR film.

Step 3. The next step is to install the thermostat. The diagram shows the installation location of the thermostat, connecting contacts and sensors. It is placed at a height of 15–20 cm.

To lay the cable, drill a vertical hole in the wall to the point where the thermostat is attached. Electricity is supplied from the nearest outlet; it is better to place the wiring in a plastic corrugated pipe.

On a note: To reduce the length of the wire used, it is recommended to place the thermostat on the wall perpendicular to the direction of laying the strips.

Step 4. The carbon film is mounted on a perfectly flat, cleaned base. The floor must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust, and the horizontal surface must be checked. The permissible height difference is no more than 3 mm. If necessary, fill the cracks and pour a thin concrete screed or leveling mixture.

Step 5. Laying waterproofing will protect the system from moisture coming from below. For this they use plastic film no thinner than 50 microns, the joints are connected with sealing adhesive tape.

Step 6. Izolon, Penofol, cork backing, foil coating. The layer thickness should be 3–5 mm. The substrate is placed over the entire area close to the walls, the joints are secured with masking or aluminum tape.

Step 7 Cutting the film into strips the right size. IR film can only be cut in places designated by the manufacturer; the material cannot be cut at an angle.

Step 8 We lay out the strips according to the plan, retreating 10–20 cm from the walls. In this case, the copper busbars are placed at the bottom. The distance between the canvases is 1–2 cm, secured with hot glue or double-sided tape.

Step 9 To connect the cable to the film, special clamps are used. One side of the clamp is placed between the film and the copper strip, and the other on the busbar.

The wires are inserted into the already installed clamp and processed with pliers. The wires to the terminals are mounted in parallel, i.e. the left only with the left, and the right with the right. The connections are insulated and tightly crimped.

Step 10 The wires connecting the heated floor to the network and the thermostat are laid to the wall and hidden in the baseboard.

A groove is made in the thermal insulation, sections of wire protruding above the film are placed there, and secured with tape.

Step 11 The contact points of the electrical wires and the cutting line of the copper bus are insulated with vinyl - with mastic tape on both sides.

Step 12 The temperature sensor is attached to a graphite strip on aluminum tape, as close as possible to the thermostat, but at a distance of at least 50 cm from the wall.

Step 13 The temperature sensor is insulated and connected by wire to the thermostat.

All connections are insulated with special overlays

Video - Instructions for installing infrared heated floors

Water heated floor

Water floor heating is a system of bendable tubes through which hot water circulates, supplied from gas or

Water heating is prohibited from being used in apartments above the first floor, provided that there are no residential premises in the basement or ground floor. Therefore, it is used in private houses with individual water supply, and in apartment buildings, if the system was originally provided for by the project. The law prohibits unauthorized connection to central heating and hot water supply.

With the concrete method, the pipes are laid under a screed with a thickness of at least 3 mm; decorative flooring can be done no earlier than after 28 days.

If you need to reduce the load on the floors, or the height of the room is limited, use a floor laying system. The pipes are placed on polystyrene foam mats, and a screed is poured on top.

In houses with wooden floors, pipes are laid in wooden grooves.

Despite the complexity of installation, the water floor system is cost-effective and durable. The main disadvantage is the possibility of leakage and difficulty in repair. It is not recommended to use a warm water floor as the main heating in the house.

Video - Installation instructions for hot water

Choosing a heated floor finish

It depends on the purpose of the room, the type of heated floor, budget and personal preferences of the owner. What should you pay attention to?

First of all, not every type of coating is compatible with one or another type of heated floor. For example, parquet is not recommended for use with a cable system due to the risk of overheating and fire.

Ceramic tiles and porcelain tiles are a universal option for any heated floor. It is resistant to impact high temperatures, moisture and dirt. Tiles are an environmentally friendly material that, even when exposed to high temperatures, do not emit harmful substances. It has high thermal conductivity, which means it heats up quickly. For heated floors, it is advisable to choose tiles of small thickness.

When choosing a laminate as a finishing coating, you need to take into account its features. Laminate can be used if heating elements systems are distributed evenly over the entire area of ​​the room, their heating temperature does not exceed 27–30°C.

When purchasing, choose a laminate of class 32 and higher, the optimal board thickness is 8–10 mm.

There should be symbols on the packaging indicating that this material can be combined with warm floors. Low formaldehyde content is designated E0 and E1.

Linoleum and vinyl covering have good elasticity and moisture resistance. With heated floors, thin linoleum without insulation on a smooth base is used. So that it does not change its properties, optimal temperature heating should be no more than 27°C. When choosing this material, it is important to pay attention to the markings.

Using cork in combination with a heated floor is ineffective due to its low thermal conductivity, but if necessary, use a glue-free cork coating.

When choosing carpet for heated floors, preference is given to natural materials, because synthetics release harmful substances when heated. Operating temperature of the floor heating system when used carpeting project 3–5 degrees more. The length of the pile affects the thermal conductivity of the carpet, best choice There will be a thin short-pile carpet made of wool or felt.

When purchasing a decorative floor covering, ask the seller for a certificate for this material, which will indicate its detailed characteristics and conditions of use.

A properly selected heated floor can be used with any flooring. A large number of options for floor heating systems and modern materials allow them to be installed in rooms for various purposes and operating conditions. It is important to maintain the power of the heating system and not exceed the permissible operating temperature of the finish coating.