How to make a ceiling in a cellar - three options. How to cover a cellar: types of floors, monolithic and prefabricated monolithic slabs, wooden structures, with load-bearing beams, insulation of the basement ceiling Floor slab in the garage basement

A basement in a garage has a number of advantages. This extra bed storage of necessary things, household supplies, etc. If you try and provide correct microclimate, then you can even store vegetables and fruits here. Today, this is a fairly popular addition to the garage. It is best, of course, to think through the cellar and indicate it in the drawings at the stage of building the garage. Let's look at this question of how to dig and build a basement in more detail.

Advantages of placing a basement in a garage

The financial side of building a garage is a very important part. Naturally, when building it with a cellar, financial costs increase significantly. After all, in order to equip the latter, additional costs for building materials are required. And construction takes much more time. But the game is worth the trouble. There are a number of advantages to building a garage with a cellar that more than offset the disadvantages.

1. The cellar in the garage is an additional place where you can store winter preparations. Many people are engaged in making pickles, jams, and compotes. Some have their own dacha and vegetable garden, and some buy ingredients at the market. Basement - optimal and comfortable spot for their safety, because certain temperature conditions can be created there for this.
2. Own workshop is the place for almost every car enthusiast. The basement can be a great place for her equipment. After all, directly in the garage itself there is not always a lot of space for full-fledged repair work. Lack of space causes a lot of inconvenience. But in the basement there is enough space to place all the tools and equip your workplace.
3. In the basement of the garage you can leave things that you do not always use, but from time to time. For example, seasonal equipment, such as a children's sled that you use only in winter, or a bicycle that you only need in summer period time. To avoid cluttering your balcony or storage room, you can leave it all in the basement.
4. If you are planning to sell your garage, having a basement in it will significantly increase its value. The same goes for renting it out.

How to build a capital cellar - instructions

The basement is also a kind of building that requires preliminary planning. In the diagram it is necessary to clearly indicate the dimensions of each element: height, thickness, width of the floor, ceiling, walls, etc. You need to clearly calculate how much thermal insulation you will need, how many bricks, concrete, materials for internal lining etc.

Be sure to check before you start construction work, is it possible to build a basement in the location you have chosen? What if this is where underground communications (gas or water supply) pass?

If you are building a cellar at the stage of building a garage, then it would be preferable to choose a strip base for the structure.

Thus, the base walls will become parts of the cellar walls, and the basement floor will play the role of the ceiling of the underground room. In case of close proximity groundwater to the surface, give preference to monolithic concrete slabs for the construction of a garage basement. If you are lucky and your soil is dry and not heaving, then you can use lightweight materials to build walls. For example, asbestos-cement slate sheets for roofing, which need to be laid out in several layers (usually from two to four) and fixed to

1. wooden sheathing
2. . The sheets are glued together using bitumen mastic or a mixture of casein glue and cement no worse than M400. First of all, it is necessary to mark the perimeter of the future basement. Step back 300 millimeters inward from the walls of the garage so that the garage does not sink into the basement. Dig it up
3. required sizes
4. pit (250–350 centimeters).
5. The walls and bottom of the pit must be made as smooth as possible.
6. Then the basement walls are erected. To do this, you can use bricks, asbestos sheets, concrete or another material that suits you. Between the ground and outer part leave a small gap on the walls where the external waterproofing will be installed. For this, bitumen or other special mastic is used. It is applied using a roller or spatula mounted on a long handle. If the gap is large enough, then roll insulation can be additionally glued to the mastic.
7. Naturally, it is impossible to use a ready-made concrete slab for the ceiling, since the height and width of the garage are not enough to install it (of course, if it is a regular garage for one car). Therefore, you can make a ceiling from boards. They are laid close horizontally and a hole is left for the hatch. Place on boards waterproofing material, make a frame from reinforcement and formwork, fill everything cement mortar layer of 300–400 millimeters. A thinner concrete thickness may not cope with the weight of the car.

Constructing the floor

In order for the floor of the garage cellar to be dry and as warm as possible, it is important to think carefully about its design at the planning stage.

When you dig a pit, you need to increase its depth by 300–400 millimeters in order to build a drainage pad. The bottom of the pit is well leveled and compacted. A layer of sand of 150 millimeters is poured on top. The sand must be moistened with water and compacted well. Then a layer of crushed stone of 150 millimeters is poured. This is done so that groundwater cannot get too close to the waterproofing material and spoil it. In addition, sedimentary water can quickly drain through a layer of crushed stone and sand. Thus, liquid will not linger in the basement space.

After the layer of crushed stone has been laid and compacted, it is necessary to cover the rolled waterproofing material in several layers. As an alternative, liquid bitumen can be used.

Then a concrete screed with reinforcement is constructed, the thickness of which should be 200–300 millimeters. After it has completely hardened, it is recommended to treat the concrete with a deep-penetrating waterproofing primer.

This flooring option is the most optimal.

You can make a clay floor if the groundwater level allows it. To do this, clay is laid in two layers, and a layer of roofing felt is placed between them. The first layer of clay should be 250 millimeters, and the second 400–600 millimeters. You can lay a flooring of boards on top of the clay.

We build basement walls

Depending on what physical characteristics has soil at the construction site, it is necessary to select best option material for building walls. If the soil is dry and not heaving, then it is possible to use solid red brick. For other soils, the use of reliable and strong reinforced concrete is more suitable. After construction, brick walls are covered with plaster made from a concrete mixture.

If the walls are made of concrete, then the first step is the construction of sectional board formwork. One section in height should be from 350 to 400 millimeters. Reinforcing bars are installed in the formwork and concrete is poured into it in a layer of 300 millimeters. After it dries, the formwork section is installed higher and the same is done. So, section by section, all the walls of the room are built. Attach the extended sections to each other using slats and nails.

To enhance waterproofing properties, treat the walls with a special hydrophobic primer with deep penetration.

Waterproofing work - how to get rid of water

Many factors depend on the proper construction of a garage basement, such as its durability, conditions for storing food and others.

Very important! The issue of waterproofing a garage basement must be approached with great responsibility. A cellar is a room located underground. That is why very high demands are placed on its protection.

1. On construction stage When digging a pit for a garage cellar, as soon as underground water is discovered, it must be sealed with oily clay to a depth of 500 millimeters.
2. The same clay is used to fill the empty space that forms between the basement wall and the soil. The thickness of this layer should be at least 150 millimeters. Brick cladding must be laid flush with the floor beams. After this, the upper part of the cellar must be covered with a reinforced concrete floor with a hatch.
3. If the soil at the basement construction site is low-moisture and inactive, i.e. groundwater lies deep enough, then for external waterproofing work it is sufficient to treat the walls with hot bitumen. Otherwise, if the soil is wet, then it is necessary to do waterproofing using roofing felt, which is based on bitumen mastic.
4. If the level groundwater is located above the cellar floor, then it is necessary to make underground waterproofing. For this, multilayer carpets made of roofing felt are used. In addition, it is best in this case to make the base of the floor using fatty clay or crushed stone impregnated with bitumen.
5. To prevent dampness and mold from appearing in the garage cellar, it is necessary to ensure good ventilation in the room. To make it, you need to build special holes in the basement walls. To store indoors average temperature

, you can lay film, clay, clay straw or roofing felt over the entire floor area. The layer thickness should be 200 millimeters. You need to pour a 300 mm layer of earth on it.

Before placing vegetables, rolls and other products in the cellar, you need to get rid of moisture and dry the room. To do this, cover the walls with lime and burn 12 tablets of dry fuel in the room. Such actions, in addition to drying the basement, eliminate and prevent the appearance of putrefactive bacteria.

Making ventilation (exhaust) - table good ventilation system (hood), as mentioned earlier, is a pledge quality storage

How to properly insulate a basement from the inside

This process is also very important when building a basement.

If the basement is not thermally insulated or the process is approached in bad faith, then the cellar will not function properly and all the work done will go down the drain.

1. Expanded polystyrene can be used as a thermal insulation material. It does not rot, is waterproof and durable. Attach it to the outside of the basement when you insulate the garage foundation.
2. The thickness of the expanded polystyrene should be 50 millimeters and the grade should be PSB-S-25. Such thermal insulation material will perfectly maintain a stable temperature in the basement. Internal thermal insulation leads to condensation at the joints.
3. The thermal insulation of the cellar ceiling is also very important stage construction of this premises. Otherwise warm air will be sharply cooled by the cold surface of the ceiling, which will cause condensation to form.
4. If the garage floor is made of a reinforced concrete slab, which cannot be heated, installing a false ceiling in the basement, which is filled with heat-insulating material, can help.

Thermal insulation of ceiling and cover

To insulate the ceiling and roof of the basement, you must adhere to the following scheme:

1. Attach pipes with a diameter of 2.5 centimeters under the ceiling of the garage cellar. They should be located 150 millimeters from the ceiling surface and installed at a distance of 600 millimeters from each other. They can be fixed both to the ceiling and to the walls from inside the basement.
2. It is necessary to install reinforcement rods for pipes with an angle of 90°. Their diameter should be no more than 0.1 centimeter and there should be a distance of 300 millimeters between them. Then you need to form a single soft metal mesh.
3. Paint everything using waterproof paint.
4. Place in the empty space between the ceiling and pipes plastic bags filled with straw and moss. The ends of the bags are sealed and laid tightly together so that there is not a single gap.
5. On last stage it is necessary to make drains for condensate using umbrellas made of galvanized iron, polyethylene or moisture-resistant plywood. The condensate should drain into a previously prepared container.

Take a responsible approach to arranging the basement so that its functionality is not impaired, and you can leave food in it with peace of mind. Even minimal errors in work can ruin all the work done.

How to dig a cellar in an already finished garage?

1. Mark the perimeter of the future garage cellar.
2. Dismantle flooring and dig a pit of the required size.
3. The walls and floor are made according to the principle described above.
4. Then comes the production of supports for the floor.
5. The board and reinforcement frame of the formwork is constructed.
6. The garage floor is being re-filled with concrete.
7. Remake the manhole, install a hatch and a ladder.

We do the finishing and lighting

To make the basement of the garage comfortable, it needs to be decorated with something and provided with lighting. The latter will not cause any particular difficulties provided that lighting and electrical wiring are located directly in the garage itself. You just need to create a wiring from electrical panel, which is located in the garage. The formation of lighting and the placement of sockets and switches is a matter of technology.

At the final stage, it is necessary to line the bare concrete walls of the basement, which do not look particularly aesthetically pleasing.

The easiest finishing method is plastering. Thus, the structure will look monolithic. To do this, attach a metal mesh to the walls without covering it. ventilation holes. If you plan to further decorate the walls using ceramic tiles, then the layer of plaster should only minimally cover the network so that there is room for the tile adhesive. The material is applied using a trowel and smoothed using a polisher.

You can, of course, resort to more complex and expensive cladding options, for example, tiles. But practice shows that garage cellars most often get by with simple plastering.

This is followed by the arrangement of various shelves and racks in order to conveniently store household items or tools. Finishing appearance

the basement is formed by all the little things together. At this stage, you are already free to manage your own needs. Each owner arranges his basement individually.

Video: basement arrangement

Video: DIY cellar under the garage

Now you can build a basement in your garage yourself and equip it with an additional sufficiently spacious place for anything. In fact, there is nothing complicated in the process of work. But each stage is very important and must be taken very seriously and responsibly. Good luck! I recently bought myself a home. The former owner turned out to be a decent person and immediately warned me that the boards from which the floor above the basement was made were rotten from time and dampness and required urgent replacement. He was probably afraid that one day wonderful moment
I can fall through there. The basement itself was located in the house under the kitchen and had the following dimensions: width - 2.4 m, length - 2.3 m. The inside was lined with brick and coated with a layer of clay. The floor above him lay on two wooden beams and consisted of boards and chipboard slabs laid on top of them. It was made crookedly and deteriorated to such an extent that walking on it was really dangerous. All the wood was damaged by wood-boring beetles, and some chipboards
became damp and crumbly. At first I expected to simply replace the boards on it, but then, after slowly thinking it over, I decided to do metal carcass

and fill it with concrete. Firstly, there will always be dampness in the basement, no matter how you look at it, which means that new boards, given the current quality of the wood, will definitely not be enough for a long time, and secondly, if we are going to do it, then it will be done reliably, once and for all, and what could happen stronger than reinforced concrete?
The first step was to remove the chipboard, and then the boards. Using a nail puller, a hammer and a crowbar, I managed to do it in three hours. There were no problems with the slabs, but disassembling the boards took more time: they were nailed to the beams with huge nails, so they came off with great difficulty. After the wooden floor covering was completely removed, I had to remove a decent layer of earth (one bayonet) along the entire perimeter near the walls with a shovel in order to remove all existing unevenness and level the surface. This matter took the rest of the day. The next morning there was welding work to be done.

Frame making
I did not spare any metal to make the frame. Perhaps he used it even more than necessary, but only in order not to install additional support pillars inside the cellar, reducing it free space. The basis of the design was thick wall pipes(? 61 mm, wall thickness 5 mm), which I didn’t even have to buy. The fact is that previously heating was made from them in the house. It looked terrible, bulky, so it was only natural that I removed all this iron from the rooms, replacing it with modern heating devices. And the pipes, as you can see, were useful for the basement.

First, I evenly distributed four powerful three-meter pipes, which are load-bearing beams, above the cellar pit (after 80 cm). Then, having aligned them exactly to the level, he began to weld them together. To do this, I needed pipes of a smaller diameter (? 32 mm - 12 m) and thick fittings (? 12 mm - 40 m). First of all, I welded 15 jumpers between the beams, after which I strengthened the entire structure with reinforcing rods welded to them from below. The result is a very reliable metal frame.

Separately, I would like to dwell on the manufacture of the frame framing the entrance to the basement. I made it from a 40/20 mm profile pipe in the shape of a rectangle (length - 70 cm, width - 50 cm). What should you pay attention to here? Firstly, all the corners of the frame must be perfectly straight, the dimensions of the sides must be strictly consistent, otherwise the lid will not fit into it tightly, and it will leak out of the cellar. Secondly, it should be welded in such a way that it is at the same height as the beam pipes, which are also beacons.

The cover itself was also made by me from a profile pipe (40/20 mm) and a thick piece of plywood, securely connected to its metal base with self-tapping screws. The limiter for the lid, preventing the possibility of it falling into the basement, was a corner welded to the underside of the framing frame. That day I worked with welding from the heart: from early morning until late at night, but still finished the job. I burned almost two packs of electrodes alone, and inhaled acrid smoke - terrible! (the pipes were covered in paint).

Installation of formwork
The metal frame was ready, but now I had to solve a new problem - installing the formwork above the cellar. Were considered different variants its manufacture, but in the end my choice fell on chipboard slabs that were removed from the old floor. Why? First, close large space It was easier and faster to work over the pit; secondly, thanks to the slabs, there were practically no gaps where liquid concrete could spill. I attached them to the frame from the bottom side with thick binding wire: first I drilled into Chipboard holes, then threaded the wire through them, after which I screwed it tightly to the fittings with pliers. It turned out to be reliable, but given the heaviness of the concrete, I put several temporary supports underneath just in case.

Working with concrete is a serious challenge, especially if you need to concrete 12 m in one day? with a layer thickness of 10 cm. For this reason, I called a friend to help, having previously prepared everything necessary for this task: gravel screening, cement, a mixing trough, shovels, buckets, rule. We distributed ourselves as follows: we mixed the concrete together (in a ratio of 1/5), then one brought it in buckets to the pouring site and poured it out, and the other leveled the finished mixture using a three-meter rule, pressing it tightly to the beacons and making frequent oscillatory movements to the sides.

The two of us worked on the hunt. Having started working at eight o'clock in the morning, by lunchtime we had already finished pouring. The result was pleasing. The floor came out smooth, and the whole room was immediately transformed. Two days later, when it was already possible to walk on the concrete, I took an old car wheel and, making circular movements on the floor surface, removed small irregularities from it. Now all that remained was to wait until the concrete dried completely.

Final chord
A week passed and I started finishing work. First of all, I liberally painted the dry concrete surface with primer. But not for beauty, no, but to reduce the amount of dust that inevitably forms when walking. When the paint was dry, I laid it on the floor. waterproofing film, preventing the penetration of moisture from concrete into linoleum. After that, as you may have guessed, linoleum was laid, but not simple, but thick, insulated, with an abrasion-resistant surface that is not afraid of even dragging over it. Expensive pleasure (price linear meter about 2 thousand rubles), but, believe me, it’s worth the money spent.

I decorated the entrance to the basement and the lid itself with decorative metal corner. It turned out neatly and beautifully: under the corner we managed to hide the unevenly cut edges of the linoleum, and besides, it pressed them tightly to the surface. I made the handle for the lid not an ordinary one, but a removable one so that it would not interfere with walking. To do this, I drilled the lid in the center, screwed a metal plate on its back side, to which I spot welded a regular nut. Made for it special key, which is a small twig with a thread and a knob at the end.

Most car owners prefer to have a garage with a concrete block basement. In such a garage you can store food, spare parts and equipment. In order to feel safe while in the garage, some basic conditions should be observed when constructing a cellar. When arranging a basement, the main attention should be paid to the design of the ceiling of the cellar. It can be varied and depend on the size of the garage, the size of the basement and the number of cars left in the garage. It is best to include a basement in the plan before starting construction of the garage. Then, during the organization of the work sequence, all design requirements can be optimally fulfilled. When arranging a cellar after the garage is built, inconveniences arise that require time and effort.

The main focus should be on strength concrete floors above the basement. Its strength is greatly influenced by the support of this floor. When constructing a complex garage with a basement, standard ones are most often used as a ceiling. concrete plates. In this option, the walls of the cellar turn out to be a load-bearing foundation for the entire garage and at the same time a support on which the ceiling is placed. During operation, horizontal forces from the surrounding soil begin to act on the basement walls. These forces tend to deform the basement walls. Therefore, the thickness of the walls should increase in proportion to the depth of the basement. The bottom of the dug pit is covered with a layer of crushed stone 10 cm and sand 5 cm. Then strip foundation. The garage, the walls of the cellar and the ceiling will act on this foundation with all its weight. It is better to build the basement walls from concrete blocks. But if this is a bit expensive, then instead of concrete blocks you can make the walls concrete using sliding formwork.

If everything is done properly, then you need to order survey work at the construction site. This will allow you to find out if there are underground communications below, for example, electrical or telephone cable, or nearby groundwater. If the garage is located on soil saturated with moisture, then you need to make a circular drainage system to remove moisture from the area adjacent to the garage. In any case, you need to waterproof the foundation and basement blocks from the outside. If the construction is on dry ground, then coating the outside of the blocks with hot bitumen in two layers is sufficient. If the soil is wet, then the blocks need to be covered with roofing felt. bitumen mastic. Good insulation and at the same time waterproof material is expanded polystyrene. This material is highly resistant to mold and rot. Installation of such insulation is done by simply gluing the blocks on the outside. The size of the plates must be carefully adjusted to each other. The joints are also taped.

Cellar in a built garage

If the basement is being built in a built garage, then it is impossible to use standard concrete slabs as a floor, because their installation is carried out heavily. crane. The overlap is done by laying load-bearing beams. It is best to use I-beams. Motorists use pieces of railway rails purchased at scrap metal collection points for this purpose. The mine rails for the load-bearing beam will be rather weak. They can be used as transverse elements laid perpendicular to load-bearing beams. For the ends of the load-bearing beams, beds are provided on the basement walls. In general, the basement walls serve as the foundation for the entire garage. Reinforcement is placed in the space between the load-bearing beams. The lower formwork is installed on which the concrete is laid. The result is a homemade reinforced concrete slab.

If the size of the cellar in plan is small compared to the area of ​​the garage, then there may be another option. If the car is placed in a place where there is no basement, then only an inspection ditch is installed at the place where it is installed. The basement will be located in a place where there is no load from the weight of the car and its ceiling can be made lighter. In all cases, the ceiling above the basement requires insulation. Insulation ensures the absence of wet condensation and therefore directly affects the protection metal structures from corrosion. Great importance To avoid humidity, ventilation of the cellar and garage is allocated. Insulation and ventilation need to be considered in more detail.

Insulation of ceilings, walls and blocks

You can insulate in several ways. One of them is that pipes with a diameter of 25 mm are installed horizontally 15 cm from the ceiling with a fastening pitch of about 60 cm. These pipes can be attached to the walls or the ceiling. Reinforcing bars made of wire with a diameter of 8-10 mm are attached perpendicular to the pipes. They are fastened soft wire. It is better to paint the entire structure with chromium oxide, red lead or other waterproof paint. Polyethylene bags are placed in the space between the ceiling and the resulting structure. First, forest moss or chopped straw is placed in the bags and sealed with an iron. The bags are placed without a gap on top of each other and tightly together. Galvanized iron sheets, waterproof plywood or plastic film. They are used as an umbrella, from which condensate should flow through pre-arranged grooves into a bucket or some other container.

Can be used for ceiling insulation building mixture with the addition of cement and sawdust. The layer of such a solution can reach 20 cm. After completely dry after a few days apply plaster mortar. The same method can be used to insulate basement walls. The floor is insulated using glass wool or other insulation placed between the joists under the finishing coating. If the groundwater level is high, then a drainage system should be installed around the garage. The bottom of the cellar is deepened 30 cm from the expected floor level. A layer of crushed stone of about 10 cm is poured onto the leveled soil. Sand is poured onto the crushed stone in a layer of 5 cm. All layers are compacted. The cover of the entrance to the basement is made with a lattice or mesh so that ventilation is better and small animals cannot enter. For the winter, the lid is closed with insulation.

The best insulation for floors, walls and ceilings is polyurethane foam. It is applied by spraying directly onto the insulation surface. Foam is blown all over inner surface basement The insulation fills all the cracks, penetrating into inaccessible places. Upon rapid hardening, it forms Smooth surface without seams or voids. Polyurethane foam has very low thermal conductivity. It is practically weightless, so it will not add additional load bearing structures. Using this method, the basement is insulated very quickly, and the only drawback is that high price material.

Space ventilation

Proper ventilation ensures that moisture does not remain in the basement. With good ventilation, dampness will not damage food supplies. Knowing how dangerous exhaust fumes can be in a garage, ventilation should be high and in the main area of ​​the garage. In most cases, natural ventilation is used, in which air movement is carried out due to the difference in temperature of the incoming air and that available inside. If the air change is not done in sufficient volume, then it makes sense to install a fan. At this time of year, when the air temperature outside and inside the cellar is equalized, ventilation stops. There will be no ventilation even when the outside air temperature is higher than in the basement. Artificial and natural ventilation can be carried out through one channel. Artificial ventilation can have one hole.

Garage ventilation not only protects food and wall surfaces, but also the vehicle itself. When you park your car in the garage in winter, snow remains on the wheels and body. After thawing, the air becomes very humid, which increases the likelihood of corrosion of metal parts.

Working conditions

The opening of the supply pipe is located at a distance of 10-15 cm from the cellar floor. The suction hole should be at a height of 30-40 cm above the ground. It is equipped with a mesh to prevent the penetration of small animals. The hole must be protected by a so-called deflector. This device consists of a sheet bent in an arc and attached like a mushroom to the suction hole. The deflector is designed to protect against precipitation.

For action natural ventilation There must be a difference in height between the suction and outlet openings in the ventilation pipes. The minimum value of such a difference, ensuring a pressure drop, is 3 meters.

The supply pipe should be positioned so that it is constantly exposed to wind. The lack of natural ventilation manifests itself in severe frosts, when the pipe may become blocked with frost. To prevent this drawback, it is necessary to insulate the pipelines. Periodically, pipes should be cleared of snow and frost.

It turns out that natural ventilation may have malfunctions and cannot cope with the work all year round. Therefore, a fan can be inserted into the exhaust pipe. It pushes exhaust air into the pipe and creates conditions for the influx of fresh air. The disadvantage is that during the cold season the basement and garage can get too cold. There are systems with fans at the inlet and outlet, and a two-speed fan is installed at the outlet. The ventilation control system is equipped with temperature and gas level sensors. When the garage is filled with exhaust gases, the second speed is switched on exhaust fan. Modern systems in European garages they are equipped with fans based on demand optimal climate in the garage. All switching and fan speeds are controlled computer program. We consider the simplest devices and the ordinary garage of our domestic motorist so that the garage owner has a good understanding of the impact of ventilation and takes timely measures to eliminate failures.

Implementation results

A garage with a cellar made of concrete blocks is a fairly reliable structure. No one denies the usefulness and functionality of such a structure. However, when installing a ceiling for a cellar in a garage, one should take into account all the nuances associated with the distribution of loads on walls made of concrete blocks, the influence of insulation and ventilation on the condition of the structure and atmosphere of the garage. When planning, you need to organize the sequence of work in such a way that you can provide maximum comfort. It is best to design a garage entirely with a concrete block basement to ensure the functionality of all devices. Neglecting insulation can damage the ceiling due to increased moisture condensation with subsequent corrosion of supporting structures.

Ventilation is also important to prevent unnecessary condensation. Insufficient waterproofing of walls and foundation, as well as lack of circular drainage system may lead to basement flooding. Such a garage will turn into a breeding ground for mosquitoes with a swampy smell.

Arranging a spacious cellar in the garage is correct solution. In the cellar you can store vegetables, canned food, a variety of garage accessories and much more. It is better if the cellar arrangement is initially included in the project. You can also make a cellar in an already built garage, but this will require more time and effort. Otherwise, you can handle all the tasks of arranging the object in question with your own hands.

First of all, choose the right materials. Walls can be built from reinforced concrete slabs, monolithic concrete, high-quality red brick, wild stone. Sand-lime brick and it is better not to use cinder concrete for the construction of cellar walls.

Pour the basement foundation from concrete based on M400 cement. Floor screed is performed using a cement-sand mixture. The same solution can be used for plastering walls.

Assemble the formwork from solid boards. Roofing felt is optimal for waterproofing surfaces.

Pouring the base

First of all, you need to arrange the foundation of the cellar.

First step. Dig a pit. Select the size at your discretion in accordance with the required dimensions of the basement.

Second step.

Fill the bottom of the pit with a 3-centimeter layer of crushed stone. Instead of crushed stone, you can use broken bricks.

Third step.

Pour a 5-8 cm layer of concrete over the backfill. Let the concrete dry and move on to the next step.

Fourth step.

The order in which the walls are built depends on what material you decide to use. For example, it is better to lay bricks using the simplest technology. The main thing is that the walls are strictly vertical. Do not forget to carefully rub the seams between the bricks. For coloring ready-made walls will do lime.

An even simpler option for constructing walls is the construction monolithic structures made of concrete.

First step. Assemble the formwork from smooth, strong boards.

Second step.

Drive metal rods around the perimeter of the foundation and attach the formwork to them. Third step. Prepare

concrete mortar and fill the walls. For maximum savings. time, you can buy ready-made reinforced concrete slabs and make walls from them. After installation, the slab must be coated with resin and insulated with mineral wool Finishing perform at your discretion, optimal

finishing material

– wooden lining.

Construction of the floor

Make the floor of the cellar from reinforced concrete. First step. Level the base and backfill. First, pour about a 15-centimeter layer of crushed stone, then a 5-centimeter layer of sifted sand. Compact each layer thoroughly. Second step.

Install beacons with a height equal to the thickness of the screed.

Optimal value thickness was given earlier. Third step. Prepare concrete mortar and pour the floor. If you want to save time, lay the finished

reinforced concrete slab

. You can also make such a slab yourself, but you will have to spend time installing formwork, laying reinforcement and other related work. IN

in this case Laying the floor will need to be done before installing the ceiling of the cellar. Waterproofing issues

Without high-quality waterproofing, a cellar in a garage will be more of a headache than it's worth. The room will be located underground, so the requirements for moisture protection are significantly increased compared to above-ground buildings.

Situations where the cellar floor level is located below the point of groundwater passage deserve special attention. In such cases, high-quality underground waterproofing must be installed. This is a multi-layer roofing felt construction. To increase the moisture-proof properties, a mixture of crushed stone and rich clay should be laid under the base of the floor.

The issues of organizing high-quality air exchange in the cellar cannot be ignored. Otherwise, everything you put into the cellar will spoil almost instantly.

Natural ventilation

Natural air exchange is the simplest option, the implementation of which does not require high costs and effort.

First step. Prepare pipes for the installation of supply and exhaust openings.

Second step. Make a hole near the ceiling for installation exhaust pipe

. The end of the hood should be 40-50 cm above the level of the garage roof. Warm air will escape from your cellar through this pipe.

Third step. At a height of 7-10 cm from the floor level, prepare a hole for installing the supply pipe. This pipe should also go outside, at a height of about 30 cm above the ground surface. Install protective covers at the ends of the pipes.

metal mesh

. They will not allow rodents, insects and other pests to enter the cellar. To regulate the intensity of air exchange, the openings of the ventilation pipes are equipped with flaps. The disadvantage of natural ventilation is that it works more or less effectively only in cold weather. In the summer, when the temperature indoors and outdoors is practically the same as in the basement, ventilation does not work satisfactorily. Therefore, much more effective and rational option is installation

compulsory system

ventilation.

The installation of such an air duct is carried out in the same order as the installation of natural ventilation. The only difference is that the system includes fans of the required power, thanks to which the cellar will be well ventilated at any time of the year.

Forced ventilation is independent of the weather outside, therefore it is the most effective and preferable. Thermal insulation work The garage cellar needs

high-quality insulation . Without thermal insulation, all other work on arranging the premises will simply go down the drain. cellars are still at the foundation stage. Modern polystyrene foam does not rot, does not allow water to pass through, and lasts for quite a long time.

Give preference to PSB-S-25 brand material. Optimal thickness insulation – 50 mm. Expanded polystyrene will help maintain the temperature in the cellar at a stable level.

Internal insulation can also be done using polystyrene foam. It is important that the thermal insulation is double-sided. If you insulate a room exclusively from the inside, condensation will begin to form on its walls, which will not have the best effect on the microclimate in the cellar and the safety of the objects in it.

In matters of floor insulation, everything is not so simple. Most convenient option– use of expanded clay backfill. You simply install a frame of slats on the floor, fill in expanded clay and pour screed on top.

Insulate the cellar ceiling. Without thermal insulation, the same condensation will begin to form on the surface.

First step. At a height of approximately 15 cm from the ceiling surface, fix pipes with a diameter of 2.5 cm. Follow a step of about 60 cm. You can attach the pipes to the walls or ceiling, as is more convenient for you.

Second step.

Fasten the fittings at right angles to the pipes. Maintain a step of about 30 cm. Tie the elements with soft steel wire at the joints.

Third step.

Paint the frame elements with waterproof paint. Fourth step. Place plastic bags tightly filled with straw in the cells of the frame. Bags should be laid without gaps, as closely as possible to each other. Fifth step. Attach plastic film over the frame, and then carry out finishing cladding waterproof plywood, galvanized

metal sheets

or others

suitable material