How to make a screen for a bathtub with your own hands. Cladding with plastic panels

Almost finished. The walls and floor are lined with luxurious tiles, fortunately, today the assortment of them in stores can drive into a stupor not only the average person, but also experienced designer. New faucets sparkle with nickel and gold, shimmer with reflections suspended ceiling, the new bathtub pleases with its extraordinary whiteness. But its facade doesn’t fit into all this splendor: all the unsightly communications, legs, and outer side this modern miracle The plumbing does not harmonize with the interior created with such love.

What to do?

Naturally, something needs to be covered. How? Should I make it myself or buy it ready-made? This is the question that is almost always asked by the happy owner of an updated one according to the latest fashion trends bathroom. And we will try to help. Let's talk about what these designs are like and how to do it yourself, if this wise Solomonic decision was made.

Short review

Why Solomonic? Because it’s not always possible to buy what you want and what will fit the size and, most importantly, configuration new bath, which can be quite varied. Therefore, let's talk about what types of this design there are in general, how to make a screen for a bathtub yourself and, of course, what it is made of.

Why is it needed at all? by and large? In addition to being decorative, as mentioned above, a screen under a bathtub can perform several more functions. Firstly, it will protect communications from mechanical influence from the outside, and secondly, behind it you can arrange a warehouse for useful, but not very attractive in appearance, things.

Plastic

This option also does not require special material costs. But you will still have to work longer here. Plastic screens for a bathtub with your own hands are made either from large panels, the design of which, by the way, is also very diverse, or from individual pieces of PVC cut to height.

To make such a design, you need to buy, in addition to the main component, a profile specially designed for this purpose, and decorative corners.

Process technology

We cut out blanks of the required height from plastic. We measure the length of the future screen, and then cut off the excess pieces from the guides. We make markings on the floor - draw a line along which we will install the lower profile. Then we directly install the screen under the bathtub. We insert PVC panels directly on the floor into the upper and lower guides. Then we apply glue along the marking line (in our case, these are liquid nails), install the upper part of the structure under the side of the bathtub, and the lower part directly on the glue. We wait until the glue dries, decorate the edges of the screen with corners (we place them on the same liquid nails). You can use it! True, such a screen under the bathtub will only serve a decorative function. It is not recommended to use it as a place to store any items - there will be too much fuss to constantly take out and then insert at least one of the panels, not to mention several.

If you still want to have a sliding rather than a solid structure, then it is best to adopt the following method.

A la wardrobe

This would be, perhaps, the best option of all that exist. Installing a screen for a bathtub according to the principle of a wardrobe is good in all respects. Firstly, the installation procedure itself is relatively simple, and secondly, the choice of doors for such a design is simply huge. These can be either ordinary MDF panels or mirror or glass doors. The latter, by the way, can be ordered with a pattern applied in accordance with your own wishes, thanks to which it will be possible to fit the screen into the existing interior as organically as possible.

What to do?

Go to the construction market, having previously measured the height and width of the space under the bathroom. There we find a pavilion that offers all the components for sliding wardrobes and buy guides, appropriate fittings and dowels (regular and “bug”). And then we select the doors. These can be ordinary MDF panels of any color, mirrored, or glass with beautiful prints. Here everything depends on the contents of your wallet and the design idea itself. The store employees will certainly cut out the required pieces for you according to the given sizes, and all you have to do is pay for the purchase. After which we go home with the purchased material, where we begin installation.

Description of work

We cut out the guides in accordance with the width of the opening, then fasten the upper one to the bathroom itself with dowels, and the lower one with self-tapping screws to the floor. We mount the fittings on the doors and insert them into the guides. We check that the wheels fit well into the grooves, since it is thanks to them that the doors will move apart. As you can see, the installation process is quite simple. The only negative is quite high price such material. But the result is worth it.

How to make a screen for a bath: other options

Other methods of making a screen for a bathtub are more labor-intensive. This is the manufacture of a structure made of plasterboard, the installation of which involves creating a frame from profiles, foam blocks, bricks, etc. As a rule, such screens are subsequently covered with ceramic tiles - the same as the bathroom itself, or in a different, contrasting color. It really depends on the wishes of the master himself. Each of these methods is quite labor-intensive and requires separate detailed description. The only thing I would like to note is that making a screen from plasterboard will be the best option if you have a bathtub of a non-standard configuration. This material is very light and easy to work with, it takes a given shape well, so it can be used to decorate any surface.

So making a bathtub screen with your own hands is not such a difficult task. You just need to choose the appropriate option that will match the design of your bathroom and the functional features of the installed plumbing.

If you installed a bathtub, then you've probably already thought about how to hide all the communications underneath it. One of possible options- put up a screen. As a rule, this design is intended only to improve the aesthetics of the bathroom. Modern models Bathtubs are often supplied with screens. But, if you purchased a bathtub without such equipment, do not despair. You can always make the screen yourself.

Not everyone likes to close the bathtub various skins. A simple way to solve the problem is to purchase a bathtub with beautiful legs and treated, presentable sides. But it also happens that it is not possible to hide sewer and water supply structures.

Acrylic bathtubs usually come with ready-made screens that cover the space underneath to a minimum. The design features of such bathtubs differ from their cast iron/steel counterparts in that they do not form large voids underneath.

The space under the bathtub can be used more rationally by building a screen with shelves or sliding doors underneath it. So, you can store detergents under the bathroom, for example.

Among other things, such coverings help improve sanitary conditions in the bathroom. Thanks to them, moisture does not accumulate on the floor areas under the bathroom, which provokes the growth of bacteria and fungi.

Modern design developments provide the opportunity to decorate the bathtub in an original and beautiful way. With their help you can create imitations, for example, underwater world or an aquarium.

In humid bathroom environments, it is important to use moisture-resistant materials. There are plenty of them on the market today. Among this many we can highlight:

• brick;
• MDF/OSB;
• plastic;
• installation ready-made kit, consisting of a frame and sliding doors.

All materials, except plastic and the finished screen kit, must be finished after installation, for example, with plaster, tiles, wallpaper, etc.

Basic requirements for the material:

1. There must be an inspection opening to the main sewer and water supply units, closed with a door/plug.
2. The floor under the bathtub should be sealed from the rest of the bathroom. This is the only way to avoid the formation of dampness, and as a result, fungi and mold under the bathtub.
3. The bathtub should not rest on the screen because it is a non-load-bearing structure.
4. To prevent the screen from interfering with your feet, you need to arrange a recess in it, made at an angle.

If you have enough free space under the bathroom, make a screen with drawer or small cabinet, in which you can store detergents and household chemicals.

Screens are:

• deaf;
• with a niche for feet;
• with sliding doors;
• with an inspection door for troubleshooting plumbing problems.

When choosing a screen, the design features of the room, the personal preferences of the owner of the house/apartment, and financial capabilities are taken into account.

Drywall does not load the floor, unlike heavy brickwork. It is easy to process. A plasterboard structure can last from 20 to 25 years. If necessary, a gypsum board screen can be repaired by repairing the damage with putty or by replacing an entire fragment.

For these purposes, you need to use moisture-resistant drywall. Due to moderate vapor permeability, a plasterboard screen maintains an optimal level of humidity.

Work with gypsum board does not require any special equipment. Everything you need is usually included in your home tool kit.

In the process of design calculations, the availability of access to plumbing units should be taken into account. The inspection opening can be closed with a plastic flap. To make using the bathtub more comfortable, the lower part of the screen needs to be moved under the bathtub by 10–12 cm. The screen is not load-bearing structure, as mentioned above, so it should not support the weight of the bathtub. The only thing is that if the design includes shelves or cabinets, then the frame must support their weight along with the filling.

First you need to install load-bearing frame. The most affordable option is a system assembled from mounting timber, pre-treated with a preservative. Installing a metal profile will cost you more, however, given its high performance properties, the costs justify the investment.

No matter how you decide to install the gypsum screen, dowel fasteners will be used as fastening. The gypsum board is fixed with metal screws.

On the wall adjacent to the side of the bathtub, apply markings along which the side profile will be installed. If you use tiles as cladding, then make an additional indentation for this. It should be equal to the total thickness of the tile and panel. Mark the length of the bottom of the screen on the floor. To ensure accurate markings, use a plumb line or a building level.

Recesses for the feet are usually formed in the center of the bath at the bottom of the screen. The middle of the floor profile needs to be made in a U-shaped configuration. To do this you need to install vertical racks with an appropriate slope.

Before installing drywall, install the profile in accordance with the markings. First of all, secure the UD profile. At the same time, place its lower part on moisture resistant sealant. Attach the vertical CD profile to the supporting profile at equal intervals of 60 cm. Where the inspection door will be installed, install additional racks.

To cut gypsum boards, use a fine-tooth hand saw. This way, you will get a clean cut. When making a screen, it is important to ensure a distance from the side of the bath equal to 10 mm in depth. This will prevent the screen from coming into contact with water.

If the thickness of the frame walls is 0.55 mm, then to secure the drywall you need to use standard metal screws. If the thickness of the profile walls is 0.8 mm, then it is better to use fasteners with a drill tip.

Drywall can be finished with tiles, decorative plaster, film decor or moisture-resistant wallpaper.

Before making the frame, the profile needs to be given a semicircular shape. To do this, you need to make cuts on the metal profile and bend it. Make two such arcs. Secure them with self-tapping screws. Then install vertical slats, which will give the frame rigidity.

The frame should be installed at a certain recess from the side of the bathtub: the thickness of the gypsum board + the thickness of the tiles + the thickness of the glue.

In order for the drywall to acquire the desired shape, for example, to become arched, it must be slightly moistened and gradually bent. The tiles must be laid with elastic adhesive, and the distance between the slabs must be leveled with crosses during the laying process.

The principle of manufacturing the frame is indistinguishable from its counterpart, intended for installing gypsum board. The only difference is the need to install additional ventilation slots located on the opposite side of the inspection door. This should be a small slot covered with a plastic grill. Another option is to make neat round holes arranged in random order.

The space under the bathtub can be closed brick wall, tiled. Every person who knows how to handle household tools can cope with masonry. Laying should be done in ¼ or ½ brick using a cement-sand mortar in a ratio of 1:3.

Before laying, you need to mark the position of the screen taking into account the tiling. Ultimately, the edge of the bathtub should be flush with the screen. Lower the plumb line along the edge of the bathtub, and then mark a line from which the thickness of the tiles and masonry mortar inside the bath. In accordance with this guideline, you need to make brickwork. In addition, the vertical lines of the screen structure should be marked on opposite walls of the bathroom.

If the bricks will not fit entirely at the top of the screen, they will need to be adjusted in height and thickness.

If you want to make a structure with a niche for feet in the masonry of the bottom row (or several rows), then you will have to leave an opening in the masonry, covered with steel strips up to 6 mm thick. This will ensure the retention of the bricks of the top row.

The niche can be made with an inclined wall. However, it is technically more difficult to carry out such masonry. To do this, mark the bottom contour of the niche on the floor. Mark the height and depth of the niche on paper. By connecting the dots you will have a pattern. It will be necessary to cut off the brick for the side walls. You can cut the brick with a grinder or a diamond wheel. The laying of an inclined wall is carried out by tying the bricks to the side walls and to each other.

The top row of sloping wall bricks must be brought to the level of the horizontal row, and then cut off with a grinder. You should end up with a horizontal line. The further masonry process is similar to the previous method.

After completing the masonry, an inspection door should be installed. To simplify the task, you can purchase one made of plastic from hardware store. Another option is to make it yourself from a galvanized/aluminum profile, which can then be sheathed plastic panels or other finishing materials.

To make the frame, you will need to install a beam or metal profile, and then carry out the installation starting profile, on which the plastic lining will be attached.

To make the structure more rigid, you need to install profiles in the middle of the screen. This should be taken into account, because the lining can deform and lose its shape from the slightest mechanical loads.

The lower profile must be screwed to the floor and treated with sealant. Plastic lining need to be cut into strips equal to the height of the screen. They need to be brought with their edges into the starting profile. So, gradually the entire screen will be filled with clapboard. You need to cut a rectangle at the location where the inspection door is installed. Then you can install the door, which can be purchased at the same store as the lining.

If you need additional shelves, you can install them under the bathtub. If you want to close them from prying eyes, install sliding screen. It can be made so that the shelves open vertically.

Vertical structures are fixed to gas lifts or other fasteners used in furniture production.

If you have to choose one of the models of standard sliding screens and install it under the bathtub, then we suggest that you familiarize yourself with some of the features of the products of this plan. Standard length screens – 1.5 and 1.7 m. Universal designs can be reduced in length. They come in heights of 50.6 cm, 55 and 56 cm. The structures are equipped with adjustable legs.

A simple version of a sliding screen is finished design, which consists of an aluminum/plastic frame with two panels. More complex models additionally equipped with drawers and shelves for storage detergents And household chemicals. The panels are made of glass or plexiglass.

If you need to install a screen under the bathtub in small room, then to visualize the increase in space, you can install a mirror structure.

Video

Photo

The screen in the bathroom allows you to improve designer look premises and create extra seats for storing various accessories.

It is made from various materials and can be of several types.

1. . They are considered the most convenient; they allow not only to close utility networks, but also to create additional storage spaces. They are movable doors made of various materials, mounted on special plastic or metal profiles. Provide access to the entire space under the bath. Disadvantages – low strength indicators.
2. Removable non-sliding. Often sold together with expensive bathrooms, they are used to hide communications and provide emergency access to sewers and pipelines in case of emergency. Removing and installing such screens is quite difficult; it is recommended to perform these operations only in cases of extreme necessity.
3. Stationary. More often custom made. They have only limited-sized openings for access to engineering communications. They take first place in terms of strength and allow you to create unique, exclusive solutions. External surfaces are finished with various materials, including mosaic tiles. They can be either rectangular or round. The only option for manufacturing screens for hydromassage baths, products with a complex exclusive profile. Often used for free-standing bathtubs. They perform both decorative and load-bearing functions.

In sales you can find factory screens for the bathroom; their advantages include speed of installation. On this, unfortunately, positive sides are ending. Disadvantages - unreasonably high cost, the presence of a gap between the screen and the floor and insufficient physical strength. In addition, it is sometimes difficult to choose appearance factory screen to match the style of the room. We do not recommend installing factory screens; from various points of view, it is much more profitable to make them yourself or order them from professional builders.

sliding bath screens

For the manufacture of bathroom screens they are used various materials, knowledge of their objective characteristics allows us to dwell on optimal solutions for each specific case. The table gives Comparative characteristics materials.

External finishing of the surfaces of bathroom screens is done different ways, from gluing patterns or drawings on plastic film before tiling with ceramic tiles. Wide variety of manufacturing options and decorative design screens puts inexperienced users in a difficult position when choosing. For them we will give some practical advice.

A screen in the bathroom is needed not only for decorative purposes, but also to protect the space under the bathroom from water leakage. Its presence causes the appearance unpleasant odors and fungi. This means that when choosing a specific screen, choose the option that completely prevents water from getting under the bathtub. Water can enter not only during taking water procedures, but also due to pipeline breaks.

Remember to always provide access to the siphon, shut-off valves and other engineering communications. Today's plumbing products and the equipment is guaranteed at correct installation long-term use. Periodic cleaning of siphons is done with very effective means; there is no need to disassemble them, this relaxes the plumbers a little. But some cleaning products, if not used correctly, can raise the temperature to such values ​​that plastic pipes become soft, deformed at the joints and, as a result, leaks appear. In addition, small valuable jewelry can get into the bathtub siphon; they can only be removed from there after disassembling it. Conclusion - when choosing a screen, always ensure access to the bottom of the bath. If having a space under the bathroom for storing detergents is voluntary, then emergency access is a prerequisite for all options for bath screens.

The screen should be as strong, durable, beautiful and easy to clean as possible. Ceramic tiles best meet these conditions; all other materials, including plastic, are significantly inferior to them. But ceramic tiles can be laid both on durable brick surfaces and on plasterboard slabs. We strongly advise you not to use drywall to make screens; according to professionals, this is the worst option of all possible.

Conclusion - a screen made of bricks or foam blocks, trimmed with ceramic tiles, is considered optimal. Access for inspection and storage space for bathroom accessories is provided in this option.

And one last thing. Only this option can be used for acrylic bathtubs; they are so fragile that even with a slight load they change their shape. All screens, except stationary brick or block ones, have an extremely negative attitude towards any fluctuations in linear dimensions. As an example, we will take the most successful version of a bathroom screen - made of foam blocks lined with ceramic tiles.

Step-by-step instructions for making a stationary block screen

First you need to think about the location of the technical holes, prepare tools and materials. There is no problem in counting the amount of materials. And the tools you will need are a basic mason's kit, a tape measure, a square, a level and glue or a cement-sand mixture.

The standard bathtub height is 56 cm, buy foam blocks measuring 30x60 cm and 10 cm thick. Such masonry materials can be placed on edge, which significantly increases the stability of the structure and makes work easier.

If the blocks are slightly larger than the required size, this is not a problem; they can be cut perfectly with a hacksaw. If it is much lower, then you will have to place them on the edge in two rows in height. This is more difficult; it will be especially difficult to work with the last row.

Important. If you have a thin acrylic bathtub, then you definitely need to make a rigid support for the bottom, otherwise it will sag and cracks will appear in the grout.

For this you can use bricks or the same foam blocks. The emphasis will not hurt for a cheap metal bathtub. Some manufacturers have learned to save so much that they make bathtubs from sheet steel a few tenths of a millimeter thick. There is no need to talk about any strength in these cases.

Step 1. Check the position of the bath. There are cases when plumbers made a mistake during its installation; the problems should be corrected before finishing begins. Check the position of all sides one by one with a level and level the position if necessary.

Practical advice. Unfortunately, you can find low-quality bathtubs with an incorrect bottom slope. In such baths, the water does not completely go into drainer, a little one always remains near him. Later it dries out and dirty spots appear on the bottom. To eliminate this phenomenon, lift one end of the bath until the water completely goes into the drain hole. Lock it in this position. It’s okay that the sides are not horizontal; their slope is invisible to the eye. A few millimeters of difference in height are eliminated by slightly changing the width of the tile seam.

Step 2. Mark the location of the screen so that the facing tiles are flush with the side of the bathtub. To do this, take a level, place it against the side of the bathtub in a strictly vertical position, and make a mark on the floor. Make such measurements at at least three points along the length. Connect them with a thin line, it will indicate the position facing tiles. Next, you should outline the lines for the blocks. Sum up their thickness with the thickness of the glue (no more than 0.5 cm) and the thickness of the ceramic tiles. Draw another clearly visible line on the floor at this distance from the first with a felt-tip pen. On vertical walls Using a level, draw the same lines.

Step 3. Prepare the solution and foam blocks. It is better to buy a dry mixture; its characteristics are much superior to self-prepared cement-sand mixtures. These adhesives are inexpensive and allow you to install directly onto existing ceramic tiles. There is no need to first tear it off, make notches with a grinder, etc.

Step 4. Try on the foam block. At the top of the bathtub it will have to be sawed off at an angle. Do this operation in several stages, repeating the fitting each time. This way you will be able to accurately adjust the dimensions of the block, which will have a positive effect on the strength of the masonry.

Step 5. Apply glue around the perimeter of the foam block approximately 2 cm thick, install it in place, check the verticality with a level. Linearity is controlled by a line drawn on the floor. Continue tiling the bathroom in the same way.

Step 6. Remove construction debris and remove any adhesive from nearby ceramic tiles with a damp cloth. Leave the structure for one or two days for the mass to harden. Next, you can begin laying the facing tiles.

How to access the siphon

We have already mentioned that the quality of modern plumbing equipment ensures reliable operation for many years. But there may be emergencies, to eliminate which you will need access to the space under the bathroom. There are several ways to make access, each of them has its own strengths and weaknesses. We will briefly consider all the options, and you yourself choose the method that is acceptable to you.

Work should begin only after the masonry with foam blocks has fully gained strength.

Step 1. Mark the hatch. It should be located on the side of the bathtub on which the connection is mounted engineering systems. First you need to beat off the location lines finishing tiles screen. The area of ​​the hatch should be equal to a multiple of the number of tiles; in most cases, four pieces are enough: two in length and two in width. Accordingly, the length of one side of the square will be equal to the length of two tiles. But the exact parameters depend on the size of the tile.

Step 2. Draw a square on the blocks in the selected location; the side of the square should be 3–4 cm less than the length of the two tiles. Cut a hole along the lines. This can be done with a grinder (dusty and noisy) or an ordinary hacksaw. To start working with a hacksaw, drill several through holes along the line and remove the thin bridges between the holes with a drill. This is how the initial cut for the saw is made.

These steps should be repeated on each side of the square.

Step 3. Start laying tiles on the foam blocks of the bathroom screen, leaving the prepared emergency hole free. When the tile adhesive has hardened, proceed to create an emergency hole. You'll have to work on it a little. The fact is that the tiles will only be held in place on narrow strips; such features require very careful work.

The four remaining tiles with reverse side cover with stretch film. The tiles should not stick to the blocks, but only imprint their mark. After the glue has set, carefully remove the tile, remove the film, coat the surface with sealant (it holds much more firmly) and install it in place. Grout the seams as usual. If necessary, the grout can be removed and the tiles can be removed without any problems.

After the repair work, all elements are installed in place. If there are concerns about the reliability of fixation of these tiles, then their position can be strengthened. To do this you need to have a segment metal U-profile for fastening drywall. It is installed vertically exactly in the middle of the cut square. Longitudinal slots are cut into the blocks under the side edges of the profile; the profile must fit in such a way that its surface is at the same level and the tiles are glued together. The free edges of the tile will rest against it, which will significantly increase their stability.

Video - Push inspection hatch under tiles

Plastic or MDF screen for the bathroom

This option is considered budget-friendly; all work can be completed within one day. It is inferior in quality and design to the one described above, but is quite suitable for small bathrooms. To make such a screen you will need aluminum or plastic profiles for sliding doors (they have two internal tracks approximately 3–4 mm wide), durable silicone glue, dowels, plastic or MDF panels of appropriate thickness and decorative handles. The tools you will need are a drill, an angle grinder, a level, a tape measure and a pencil or marker.

The marking is done according to the algorithm described above with one difference. Only one line is needed; profiles will be installed along it. The front side of the profiles should lie in the same plane with the sides of the bathtub.

Very important. If in the first case we allowed the position of the bath to be slightly different from the horizontal, now it should be set strictly according to the level. This is explained by the fact that the shape of the doors should only be square, otherwise they will jam and not open completely.

Step 1. Measure the dimensions of the profiles around the perimeter of the bath. Cut the profiles at a 45° angle. If the walls of the room have a slope, then the cutting angle needs to be adjusted; the presence of cracks at the junction points indicates a very low qualification of the performer. There is no way to hide these gaps; over time, dirt accumulates in them, and the appearance of the screen deteriorates significantly. If you don't have practical experience When making corner joints, we recommend practicing on wooden slats. A good option, by the way, can be used as a template when cutting a profile.

Step 2. Mark the locations of the holes for the dowels. For vertical profiles, three are enough; in the lower horizontal profile, you need to check at least four.

Step 3. Place the profiles on the floor and walls one by one and mark the locations for the holes for the dowels. Drill holes in the wall and floor and insert plastic parts into them. Apply glue to the back side and secure the profiles in the dowels.

Step 4. The upper horizontal profile is fixed with glue to the lower surface of the sides of the bathtub. Before attaching it, thoroughly clean the surfaces from dirt, wipe them with solvent, and allow time to dry. Do not touch these surfaces with your fingers while applying the adhesive. Give plenty of glue; the excess will be cut off or covered up later.

Step 5. Take the exact dimensions of the sliding doors. Please note that they should be approximately 5mm larger than the screen frame opening. The doors fit into the groove of the profiles and due to large sizes are held. Cutting plastic is much faster with an ordinary grinder with a metal stone. Burrs on the reverse side are removed with a mounting knife.

Step 6. Drill holes for the handles and install them in place. Tilt the doors and insert them first into the upper profile and then into the lower one. Check for smooth running. If there are jams, find the cause and eliminate it.

Screen made of plasterboard

For this type of screen, you need to make a frame from galvanized metal profiles. To increase stability, additional vertical and horizontal jumpers are installed. Plasterboard boards are fastened with self-tapping screws, and the outer surface is covered with ceramic tiles.

Decorative screen after finishing

Video - Installing a screen in the bathroom with your own hands

A bulky bathtub with many pipes looks disharmonious, so it needs to be disguised. In order to improve the appearance of the bathroom, a special screen is installed suitable color, covering water and drain pipes, siphon, plumbing units.

What it is?

A bath screen is a solid or sliding panel installed on the side of the bath along its entire length and height, hiding the unaesthetic appearance outer covering baths, pipes and adjacent units. The standard length of the screen is from 150 cm to 170 cm, height - from 50 to 70 cm. These parameters vary depending on the type, shape and dimensions of the bath. The demand for bath screens is explained by their many advantages:

• simple installation (the structure is easy to install with your own hands);
• strength and durability;
• relatively low costs for acquisition, manufacturing, installation;
• a 100% achieved result in improving the aesthetics of the bathroom.

You can buy the product, order it from a craftsman, or make a bathroom screen with your own hands.

Why do you need to close the bathtub?

Diversity finishing materials and technology allows you to create a beautiful and functional space from your bathroom. The screen under the bathtub is designed to organically fit the tank with communications (water supply and drainage) into the interior.

When making a screen for a bathtub with your own hands, it is better to immediately provide it with additional shelves and drawers for storing household supplies, hygiene items or cleaning tools - the decorative panel will acquire a practical purpose. In addition, the screen under the bathtub has another function - a closed or sliding screen prevents water from entering hard to reach places under the bathroom.

There are three main functions of the bath screen:

• decorative – decorates the bathroom;
• practical - provides a place to store household items;
• protective - does not allow water to get under the bathtub, dust to accumulate there, or dirt to form.

Types of screens

Bath screens are divided into two categories:

• stationary - permanent closed walls from the edge of the bathtub downwards, often tiled (a photo of a bathtub with a permanent screen is presented below);
• mobile screens are attached panels that are easy to remove and carry, most often these are sliding models made of plastic. Photo: mobile sliding screen under the bath.

Based on their appearance they are classified as follows:

• closed screens (solid) – represent one fixed canvas;
• open (this includes sliding bath screens), consisting of two or more moving parts.

Bath screens differ in the material from which they are made:

• from MDF panels;
• from chipboard;
• ceramic tile screens;
• plastic;
• plasterboard;
• closed screens made of brick or tongue-and-groove blocks.

Sample models are shown in the photo. Closed plasterboard, tongue-and-groove screens or brick are most often finished with tiles. The best solution They will include a removable, opening or sliding inspection hatch, and the best type of tile for finishing the screen under the bathtub is considered to be the one used to decorate the walls in the bathroom. Panels made of MDF, chipboard, plastic and ceramics are used as an independent coating and do not require additional cladding.

Required materials and tools

You can make a bathtub screen with your own hands from any available type of material; the manufacturing and installation technologies for bathtub screens differ slightly. First, a metal or wooden frame is installed, then it is covered with panels, and the process ends finishing frame covered with panels.

It is better to use plastic and ceramic tiles for decoration. They are not subject to corrosion and resist moisture well. The screen frame is most often sheathed with waterproof plasterboard, and for load-bearing elements It is better to use a metal profile.

You can make a bath screen with your own hands using the following materials:

• for cladding, choose moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard, MDF or chipboard, solid plastic panels or lining - it is better to use the type of material with which you have experience working with your own hands;
• two pieces of guide metal profile 60 cm wide and 150 to 170 cm long;
• a supporting profile of the same width for forming frame stiffeners;
• metal screws 3.5*16 mm for connecting metal profile elements, 3.5*25 mm for installing drywall to the profile;
• driving dowels for attaching metal profiles to the wall;
• “liquid nails” or better silicone sealant;
• To cover the screen under the bathtub you will need tiles and tile adhesive;
• polyurethane foam;
• Furniture hinges are needed to hang MDF doors on the structure.

To install the screen under the bathtub with your own hands, you will need the following tools:

• level, tape measure, metal ruler, pencil;
• screwdriver;
• jigsaw, hacksaw for metal;
• construction knife;
• sealant gun.

DIY plasterboard screen

The technology of covering with plasterboard is somewhat different from the process of working with MDF, chipboard or plastic. It’s not difficult to make a screen for a bathtub with your own hands covered with plasterboard - this is one of the best materials that are easy to process and available on the modern market.

To install a screen in the bathroom, it is better to choose a special moisture-resistant type of drywall - it is impregnated with antiseptics that prevent the development of microorganisms in conditions of high humidity. Its price is slightly higher, but only this sample is suitable for a bath screen, although it is also afraid direct hit water and must be well sealed after installation to avoid destruction.

The plasterboard screen can be open, with a provided inspection hatch, or closed. A closed bath screen is made as follows: after marking the location of the screen and installing the metal frame, it is covered with plasterboard:

• once again take measurements of the frame from the profiles;
• mark with a pencil or marker on one of the sides of the gypsum board (both are identical, choose either) the parts necessary for covering;
• cut the drywall according to the markings. This can be done with an ordinary carpenter's knife, applying a metal ruler to the line: cut through the top cardboard, break it, cut the bottom along the fold;
• they cover metal frame profiles with plasterboard parts using a screwdriver and galvanized self-tapping screws;
• putty on the screw heads and seams, seal the joints;
• After drying, finish the screen under the bathtub with tiles.

Options for finishing the screen under the bathtub with tiles can be seen in the photo.

DIY bath screen

Making and installing a bathtub screen with your own hands is carried out in several steps; all work can be completed over the weekend by watching the video of the process of installing a bathtub screen by craftsmen. A sliding plastic screen will require less effort and time to install than other types.

Step 1. Measuring the bathtub and marking the location of the screen. Height dimensions are taken at least at three points, since the bathtub is always installed at an angle to facilitate water flow into the hole.

When measuring the length of the bathtub, you should remember that the upper guide screen profile is made from one element 150 cm or 170 cm long, and the lower one will most often be made up of three or more parts, since it is more convenient to make the screen with a recess deep into the bathtub. Determine the dimensions of the protrusion: indicate the distance from the wall to the left corner of the recess, then its length and the distance from the right corner to the wall.

Marking the location of the screen on the floor is never done at the same level as the edge of the bath; one must always take into account that a layer of glue and tiles will still be applied to the surface. The thickness of the material itself (plasterboard, chipboard or MDF) is also taken into account. Having made a projection of the edge of the bathtub onto the floor, step back 3-5 cm in depth and draw a line from one wall to the other - the elements of the lower metal profile will be located on it and the depth of the protrusion of the screen under the bathtub is measured from it. Watching the video will give you a more accurate idea of ​​the work procedure.

Step 2. DIY metal frame installation. According to the markings made, metal profile elements – guides and stiffeners – are installed, pre-cut to size. If there is no cutter, then they are connected to each other with small self-tapping screws. The options for fastening the metal profile are as follows:

• to the wall - with driven dowels with self-tapping screws;
• to the surface of the bathtub - with liquid nails or polyurethane foam;
• on ceramic tiles on the wall and on the floor - with silicone sealant (since bathrooms often have heated floors and fastening with self-tapping screws is impossible).

The frame installation process is demonstrated in the video.

For a screen under a bathtub made of MDF, instead of a metal frame, you can install a wooden one, and in one of its sectors you can make one or more MDF doors for access to communications. What such a bathtub looks like with a screen and MDF doors can be seen in the photo.

Step 3. Covering the frame of the screen under the bathtub. The work at this stage depends on the material with which it is planned to sheathe metal carcass: plasterboard, chipboard, plastic, MDF panels or tiles. Sometimes thick ceramic tiles are not sewn onto drywall, but are attached directly to the frame. You can get an idea of ​​how to make a screen for a bathtub from tiles by looking at a photo or video.

The process of covering a bathtub with your own hands with plasterboard, MDF panels or chipboard is the same and described above: the sheets are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws using a screwdriver. Screens made of MDF and laminated chipboard They are not tiled - the decoration is their decorative moisture-resistant coating. Installation of plastic products is done a little differently.

Plastic screen

The peculiarity of plastic is that it is a very light and bending-resistant material. A plastic bathroom screen does not require reinforced fastening - two long guides at the top and bottom are enough to mount the panels. Instead of metal profiles for these purposes, you can use wooden planks, having previously treated them with antiseptics. There are two types of plastic bath screens:

• from whole sheets of curtains forming a sliding screen;
• made of plastic lining panels - a closed-type screen.

The photo shows examples of decorating a bathtub with screens of this type: a sliding screen with moving doors and a solid one made of lining.

The sequence of making a screen for a bathtub from closed-type plastic (PVC) panels with your own hands:

1. Guides are installed at the top and bottom, to which the starting profile is attached.
2. The number of plastic panels of the required length required for covering the screen is calculated and cut - in height from the edge of the bathtub to the floor. It is important not to forget that in different places Bath height may vary.
3. PVC panels are inserted vertically one after another into the grooves of the starting profile and fixed with self-tapping screws or small nails.

The plastic panels arranged vertically do not retain water, they form an even closed row, are easy to clean and, if necessary, can be simply dismantled. This the best option in price and the easiest type of screen to install under the bathtub with your own hands.

Sliding screen for bathtub

One of the most common models sold on the market is a sliding bathtub screen. What do different samples look like? sliding structures, can be seen in the photo. A sliding bath screen consists of two or more plastic curtain panels that move along a guide groove, revealing and hiding the space behind them. The sliding screen is practical:

• installing it under the bathtub does not cause difficulties;
• sliding curtains provide access to plumbing communications at any time;
• If desired, a sliding screen can be easily made with your own hands.

It is better to use lightweight plastic sliding screens in old bathrooms, where it is necessary to ensure frequent access to communications for repairs.

The disadvantages of a sliding screen for a plastic bathtub include its mediocre, graceless appearance and not the best strength qualities.

1. Before making a bathtub screen with your own hands, it is recommended to repair all communications in the bathroom and carry out preventive work - after installing a closed stationary screen, this will be impossible to do without its complete or partial destruction.
2. When using wooden blocks to make a frame, before installing them under the bathtub, they must be treated with antiseptics and impregnations that make the wood moisture resistant.
3. Before installing the screen under the bathtub, clean the space that will subsequently be closed by treating the surface with antifungal solutions.
4. When using MDF and chipboard in the bathroom, you should remember that these materials are destroyed by water and require sealing of seams and a waterproof coating.
5. One of the simplest and most budget-friendly models for installation in the bathroom is a plastic sliding screen; if you don’t want to make the design yourself, you can buy such a screen inexpensively.

Design installation ideas: photo

The presented photos show what different bath screens look like and what materials they are made from. Can be used best samples as ideas for decorating your own bath.

Photo: original tiling of the bath screen.

Photo: screen under the bathtub, tiled with a hatch.

Photo: bathtub with a sliding screen decorated with photo printing.

Photo: bathtub with a color sliding screen.

Photo: sliding screen for a bathtub with white doors.

Photo: bathtub with a sliding screen in the form of flaps.

Photo: sliding screen under the bathtub with shelves for hygiene products.

Photo: sliding screen around the entire perimeter of the bath.

Photo: color sliding screen under the bath.

Photo: bathtub with a screen made of wooden gratings.

Photo: bathtub with a solid chipboard screen.

Photo: bathtub with a solid mirror screen.

Video: how to hide pipes under the bathtub

The video clearly shows the sequence of work on creating and installing a closed and open screen under the bathtub with your own hands, allowing you to hide imperfections plumbing units and hide the pipes.

The screen is not a necessary part of the bathtub, but it can be used to block communications and other unsightly “views” under the bathtub. In our article we will look at how you can make this design yourself, because in some non-standard situations it is simply impossible to purchase a screen that is suitable in shape and size.

Why should you cover the bathtub with a screen?

WITH modern baths The kit usually comes with screens that are suitable for all parameters - installation of such a design will not take even an hour. But if we're talking about about steel or cast iron products, then there are no screens for them, so there are only three options left: buy it, leave the space open, or make a screen for the bath with your own hands.

Whether or not to use such a screen for a bathtub is a decision that must be made by the apartment owner himself, but, most likely, everyone will want to have a beautiful and neat bathroom, because it is the cladding that allows you to give the room a complete and attractive appearance, covering unsightly communications. But aesthetics is not the only reason for installing such a product. So, you can make a screen, additionally equipping it with small containers for storing various containers, jars with household products, which means you can save a significant amount of space in the room.

In addition, when using a bathtub without a screen, water may get under it, dirt begins to accumulate - all this will soon lead to dangerous fungus. In addition, the floor in the room wears out faster, losing its attractiveness. It is the installation of the screen that will avoid such problems.

What are the design requirements?

Exist various options arrangement of such a design, however, when choosing material, shape, etc., the basic requirements for the screen should be taken into account. First of all, remember that this product is installed for the bathroom, which means it will be used in wet conditions, the manufacturing material must be moisture resistant and able to withstand sudden temperature fluctuations.

If this is not taken into account, then literally in a couple of months fungus will begin to appear on the material, it will begin to collapse under the influence external factors. It is also important to remember about tightness; water should not get into the space under the bathtub itself. But it is also impossible to completely close off air access - lack of ventilation will lead to the appearance of mold. That is why it is necessary to provide doors or windows in the design.

There are some other requirements:

• When arranging the screen, it is necessary to provide the possibility of quick access to basic communications.
• The product should not interfere with access to the bathroom, for which purpose it can have a special recess for the feet, which is very important for small rooms.

The first thing you need to do is make a frame to install the screen. It can be made from brick, metal profiles, or a block of wood. Moreover, it is better to make brickwork to install a tile screen so that it can withstand the weight of the material; in the case of working with plastic panels or gypsum board sheets, other options can be used. But let's talk about everything in more detail.

• Brickwork

This option is rightfully considered the most reliable. Such a base will withstand any material. You need to build a brick wall from one wall to another, laying half a brick. In this case, you need to make a new row with a slight shift to the side. We make a gap of 2-3 cm between the top side of the bathtub and the masonry, and after the cement mortar has dried, we fill the gap with polyurethane foam. Also, when arranging the masonry, do not forget to make a comfortable recess for the feet.

• Wooden sheathing

Such a frame will also be quite strong, but the main disadvantage of wood is that it begins to rot when left in damp conditions for a long time. Therefore, it is better to use cedar, alder or larch to create a frame. To equip the structure, you will need beams with a cross section of 4*4 cm. When carrying out work, it is very important to correctly mark the places for installing the structure, skipping this stage, you will ensure that the frame begins to move to the side.

To obtain a smooth structure, make markings:

1. 1. Draw vertical lines from the corners of the bathtub (which are adjacent to the walls) to the base, using a plumb line.
2. 2. Step back 3 cm and make a second vertical line completely parallel to the first.
3. 3. From the free corner of the bathroom, draw a vertical line and at the point of contact of the line with the base, draw a square with sides of 3 cm.
4. 4. From internal corner square, draw horizontal lines to the walls of the bathtub.

This will be the perimeter along which we will install the wooden beams. We attach them to the base using self-tapping screws, after which we mount the vertical posts and secure them to the walls with self-tapping screws. We install a horizontal wooden beam on them and fasten it with a corner. From corner posts at a distance of about 0.5 m you need to install intermediate boards. To achieve maximum strength, coat all joints with liquid nails.

• Metal carcass

When making such a frame, it is better to use the PN 27*28 profile, which is ideal for further installation of gypsum plasterboard, plastic and MDF panels. If you want to make a frame that can support tiles, it is better to use metal ones. profile pipes, however, in this case you will be faced with the need to carry out welding work. We carry out the markings in the same way as for wooden sheathing. We attach the lower guide to the floor using dowels, install the side racks on them, securing them to the walls.

To give the structure strength, make a plank at the middle of the height. We fix the top profile on the side supports, and to strengthen the top guide, fold the two profiles together and secure them together. All that remains is to mount the vertical racks at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. After installing the frame, we coat the free space between the side of the bathtub and the structure with polyurethane foam.

What to do if the bathtub is of a non-standard shape?

The most important thing here is to repeat exactly all the bends of the structure. For the manufacture of the frame, you can use a galvanized metal profile, and for the cladding - extruded polystyrene foam of maximum density. Before starting work, it is worth measuring the length of the bathtub and cutting a profile of a similar size, trimming it every 3 cm.

In the future, follow the following instructions:

1. 1. Attach the profile to the side of the bathtub and secure with tape. Bend it smoothly along the cuts you made and continue to secure it with tape at short distances. To hold the shape, also stick tape along its entire length.
2. 2. Carefully unfasten the profile from the bathtub and fix it to the floor, carefully moving it inward to the thickness of the profile. If you use tiles to create a screen, then in addition to the thickness of the material itself, add about 5 mm for glue and putty.
3. 3. Cut two sections of the profile (based on the height of the bathtub), attach to the walls with self-tapping screws. Cut the polystyrene foam into individual panels about 20 cm wide and insert each panel into the profile with the low end and the top under the side of the bathtub.

Immediately treat the inside with polyurethane foam. Install all panels, not forgetting to leave a small distance for the hatch. It can be installed after the foam has hardened. All that remains is to thoroughly putty the entire surface. After the mixture has dried, you can decorate the screen with tiles, plasterboard or other materials.

Making a screen with your own hands - step-by-step instructions

To create a high-quality screen, you need certain tools and materials that will allow you to do the job quickly and efficiently. The devices used in the work must be selected based on the material.

When working with plastic you will need:

• Bars for supports.
• Liquid Nails.
• Profiles with fastenings.
• The required number of plastic panels.

Among the tools you cannot do without a stapler, a puncher, a cutting knife, and a square. Before you start work, be sure to measure the marking line so that it completely follows the outline of the bathtub. After this, attach the profile to the covering, and the fastening should be done from the inner edge (where you will install the plastic panels).

Application liquid nails will ensure the absence of damage both on the bath itself and on all surfaces. We also fasten the panels to the bars using liquid nails: we fasten a piece of material from below along the top of the profile, since we need to additionally leave free place for installing skirting boards. It is important to understand that to install last panel you need to have dexterity, try to combine the first and last detail so as not to carry out additional pruning.

How to install a tile screen? Ceramic tile– a popular material for making screens, since this material has not only visual appeal, but also reliability and durability. We are also pleased with the huge variety of color and texture options. To install such a structure, prepare metal corners, drywall, tiles, metal profiles. Everything here is quite simple: after assembling the metal frame, it needs to be covered with gypsum plasterboard sheets, and then tile adhesive is applied on top and the tiles are installed.

To install a screen made of gypsum board sheets, you will need similar tools as when working with tiles. After installing the frame and gypsum board sheets, simply apply on top decorative plaster, cover with moisture-repellent wallpaper, for example, vinyl to decorate the front side of the screen.

Features of arranging a screen for corner baths

The corner bathtub has a non-standard shape; when creating the screen you will have to tinker a little, but the time spent will allow you to enjoy the result of your work for a long time.

It is best to make a curved product from plastic, since sheets of drywall are quite difficult to bend, much less install in this form on a rigid profile.

To mount the frame, install guides on the floor so that they follow the shape of the bathtub. Attach to the top panel using liquid nails wooden blocks to secure the top guide. Plastic panel is cut out the right size and is carefully inserted into the guide panel - the lower joints can be covered with a plinth.

It will look no less effective corner bath, made of brickwork and decorated with mosaics. After completing the work, all joints on the structure should be sealed with moisture-resistant sealant.