How to make wooden gates at the dacha. Wooden gates: beautiful, reliable and affordable (23 photos). Manufacturing of wooden gates

Wooden products in our country are especially loved by the population. Despite its external simplicity, wood attracts with its warmth, good quality and reliability. Of course, no one will argue that metal is stronger and more stable, but if metal or profile barriers are found at every step, then wooden gates are a piece of material, practically design work, even if made from unpolished boards. How to make wooden gates with your own hands, what design to choose, how to avoid the main problems when working with wood - all this is in our article.

Design Features

Given the relative density of wood, the gate frame should still be made of metal. This will keep the shape and geometry of the gate unchanged for a long time and will not allow the edges of the wood to dry out, which are usually the first to be damaged during prolonged contact with precipitation.

The doors themselves can be made directly from wood, and the already assembled structure can be secured transverse joists. If the length of the sash is less than 150 cm, then there is no point in the logs; the fixation provided by the holding frame is sufficient.

The length of the gate, excluding the wicket, should be calculated based on the operating conditions. If they are designed for small-sized cars, 250-300 cm is enough; for large-sized or several cars it is worth doing from 300 cm.

Wooden gates can also be sliding. In general, this is a relatively simple system that ensures that the gate leaf moves along a guide. Structurally, the guide is a metal rail welded to the main frame, into which roller carriages are inserted. It is on them that the sash is attached and holds it rigidly. You can control the sliding mechanism manually or set up an automatic mechanism that is activated from the remote control.

What kind of wood is best to make a gate from?

It is easier and cheaper to make wooden gates from pine

Experts advise using wood that grows in a particular region, including conifers. Of course, the most common tree in Russia is pine, and it is the one most often chosen for finishing works, for street and load-bearing structures. There are several reasons for this, but the main two are:

• low cost of material compared to deciduous trees;
• pine tolerates natural precipitation well, dries out little due to the high concentration of resins and has an absolutely straight trunk, which is all the more important for large canvases, for example, gate leaves.

Larch is denser, therefore more difficult to process and costs more. But this material has a wider range of textures, which means that the fencing structure will look brighter and more original.

Some choose oak to make wooden gates with their own hands, but for such a structure it is not the most profitable investment. The rich texture and quality of the wood attracts, in general it is visually more advantageous, but in terms of quality and durability in outdoor conditions there is no fundamental difference between larch and oak, which means why pay more?

How to treat wood before going into the ground

Someone will begin to doubt the advisability of such an event, arguing that it is prone to rotting. But if you are planning an authentic gate and wicket, that is, completely wooden, then the concrete pillars will look foreign body. So, how to properly process:

1. The part that will be immersed in the ground, plus another 15-25 cm (for the gap between the ground and the frame) is burned on all sides with a burner until it is slightly charred.
2. The charred part is tarred with melted tar (1.5-2 liters, depending on the number of pillars and the depth of immersion) and, while still hot, is tightly wrapped in roofing material. You can use burlap, but it’s better to take roofing felt.
3. After complete cooling, such pillars can be buried in the ground - even after 30 years there will not be the slightest trace of rotting on them.

Manufacturing of wooden gates

IN in this case we're talking about about the swing design with separate section for the gate. A total of 3 support pillars will be needed.

The height of the gate is selected according to personal preference. Recommended - from 180 to 220 cm. This is enough to hide what is happening in the yard from prying eyes, provide high-quality protection, but not recreate the semblance of an impregnable fortress in the yard.

For a gate height of 180 cm, the support pillars are immersed in the ground to a depth of at least 100 cm (taking into account the level of soil freezing) and must be concreted. On average, the solution takes from 7 to 15 days to harden, depending on the ambient temperature.

So, lumber:

• picket fence for finishing the gate frame 20 x 40 mm and more;
• block 40 x 40 cm for the frame - 4 parts 180, 180, 100, 100 cm;
• support beam 100 x 100 cm - 3 pcs. 280 cm each.

For support pillars You can use larch, oak or pine - the strongest. Treatment with firing, tar and roofing felt is required.

• handle and lock for the gate;
• locking mechanism- lock, beam or latch;
• stops for fixing the gate;
• hinges for sashes and gates;
• cement M300;
• river sand;
• crushed stone

Tools:

• jigsaw;
• to work with unpolished boards you will need a plane and a rasp;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• drill for preparing holes;
• plumb line;

Sample list of tools

Additionally, you will need buckets and other containers where concrete for the pits will be mixed.

How to correctly carry out calculations and draw up a project

Before you start making wooden swing gates with your own hands, you need to decide on their dimensions and draw up a detailed drawing. Here, the height, size of the doors, opening method, size and location of the gate are taken into account.

Let us give as an example several drawings of wooden gates, from which you can choose the most suitable one for a specific area.

Drawing of a wooden swing gate - with a right-hand gate

Drawing of a wooden swing gate - with a left-hand gate

Drawing of a wooden swing gate - with a separate standing gate

Drawing of a wooden gate - sliding design

Basic indicators:

• height - 180-300 cm;
• the width of each door is 150-220 cm;
• wicket width - 100 cm;
• the number of transverse bars (lags) is 2-4 depending on the height.

Work order

1. Site cleaning

Before making wooden gates, you should clear the area of large stones, stumps and other objects that may interfere with the work and installation of the structure.

1. Marking the location of supports

In order for the entire structure to be straight along the entire length future design drive pegs into the ground, pull a cord between them and check the horizontal position with a building level

1. For support pillars, dig 3 holes 100-120 cm deep. The upper level above the ground must be absolutely flat, so try to level them in depth, and if that doesn’t work, then you’ll have to cut off the top.
2. Sand mixed with crushed stone is poured into the bottom of the pit, this will be a conditional cushion, filled with water and compacted with a stick or any other available object. Next, a beam or concrete pillar is inserted strictly vertically (check by plumb line) and filled with a pre-prepared concrete solution of 2 parts sand and 1 part cement.

There is no need for reinforcement, since a meter depth is enough for strong and reliable fastening of the entire structure wooden fence.

1. 5-10 days after the concrete has completely dried, you can attach the gate frame or hang the doors directly on the hinges.

1. At the top, the support pillars are fastened with a horizontal cross member, which will work in a similar way to a stiffening rib, giving stability to the entire structure.

Features of sash assembly

It is better to assemble the frame of each sash in a horizontal position. Boards, saw cuts or picket fences are selected according to the size of the frame, which can be conveniently assembled using wooden dowels.

For reference! Wooden dowel- fastening element in the form of a large wooden nail. Used to connect boards and beams.

After the canvas is assembled, it is finally fixed with self-tapping screws along the edges of the frame. Additionally, a lintel is installed that strengthens the overall sash. The jumper is usually located in the center and looks either like a “Z” or a cross.

It is better to supplement large sashes with jibs so that over time the edges do not extend beyond the frames and do not loosen the entire structure.

The final step will be to install the latch with a hinge.

Be sure to cover the entire structure with varnish to impart a noble shine and increase service life.

The varnish can be clear or tinted

VIDEO: How to make wooden gates with your own hands

The owner of the dacha is trying to put up a reliable fence and make a beautiful gate. When you make a wooden gate with your own hands, it turns out to be individual and unique. Soft and pliable wood is easier and more pleasant to work with than hard metal and brittle plastic. Ecologically pure material doesn't highlight harmful substances when heated. A wooden gate can become a decoration of the fence and protect the yard from the entry of strangers.

With the help of impregnations you can give any shade

Everyone has a hammer, a hacksaw and nails in their country house and garage. The owner himself decides whether to make the entrance the same as his neighbor’s, or to come up with his own shape and decor for the canvas, taking into account his own preferences. Forged elements are also suitable as decoration. You can also use wood carving.

Do-it-yourself wooden gates have many advantages over products made from other materials. The photo clearly shows that each owner comes up with his own version, unlike the others.

Carved design with a pattern

Advantages

Classic material has not lost its relevance. Wooden structures in dachas and urban fences have the following advantages:

• harmoniously combines with fences of any type;
• the material is easy to process;
• the boards have a unique pattern and shade;
• environmentally friendly material does not emit harmful substances;
• combines with the surrounding nature;
• light weight and low price.

The photo shows that the wooden structure looks like part of the garden and decorates the dacha yard.

Wickets with lining in a wooden frame

Fence slats coated with clear varnish show off the natural beauty of the wood. The tree looks good against the backdrop of massive stone pillars, black forged rods and cold glossy metal profiles. It can be painted in any color and covered with transparent varnishes.

When choosing a material, the low cost of boards and timber plays a decisive role.

No need to use complex electric tool. Hand hacksaw Every man who does simple things on his own has a chisel and a hammer.

Appearance and sketch of a simple door

Flaws

Basic negative qualities trees are associated with the reaction to the influence of natural factors:

• even treated with protective compounds, over time the wood begins to absorb moisture, dry out and fade;
• fire hazardous – flammable material;
• destroyed by sharp objects;
• does not withstand impacts and pressure from large masses;
• short service life.

Slatted entrance group

At good care a wooden structure will last 10–15 years, then it must be replaced partially or completely. Without a special coating, it will lose its appearance within a year: it will swell from rain, crack, and dry out. In cold weather, moisture will turn into ice and begin to destroy it from the inside, tearing the fibers. In the sun, the boards will change color and dry out.

Wood is also dangerous if it catches fire. It not only supports combustion, but ignites quickly, even covered special compounds, and blazes.

Protecting wood from moisture

If strangers want to enter the site, wooden sash easy to break. In strength it is inferior to metal profiles and forged fences.

Breed selection is largely based on the owner's budget.

Oak is known for its hardness and durability. It is able to resist fire for a certain time. The disadvantage of oak is its cost and inflexibility.

A do-it-yourself gate made from an oak board looks beautiful against the background around the area with capital house within the city or residential area. Forged elements against the background of oak they look harmonious, the gate will be strong and impregnable.

Without experience working with hard wood, it will be difficult to make selections for hinges and tighten screws. Decorating a canvas with carvings will take a lot of time and effort. The oak board material makes the structure heavier and gives it a more impressive appearance. If oak slats are available, it is better to make a frame from them and cover it with lighter boards.

If you want to perform cutting, you should choose the optimal wood for this purpose.

Aspen is easy to process; it is also resistant to moisture and temperature changes and does not form cracks when dried in the sun. A large number of knots reduces strength wooden parts and the uniformity of the sewn-through fabric.

When making a durable gate, cedar is chosen. Its dense wood resists the formation of fungi and mold. Cedar does not rot or crack. In the photo it is difficult to distinguish it from light oak. Cedar is hired by those who like to make complex options with curly inserts, carvings, arches.

On country cottage area A pine structure is suitable. Resinous wood is resistant to moisture, has a golden color and beautiful drawing. Pine boards and slats can be freely purchased at a budget price.

Coniferous trees are less susceptible to moisture due to the presence of resin

Cheap wood species include poplar and birch. The wood is easy to work with a chisel and is soft. You should choose well-dried boards and immediately after cutting they must be primed, covering the ends and filling the holes. After assembly, the entire structure should be coated again with a primer and 2-3 layers of varnish or paint. Surfaces swell and collapse when moisture enters through small unprotected areas, and also fade in the sun.

Larch – perfect option for those who want to make a beautiful, durable gate and decorate it with carvings, as in the photo. The wood has a dense structure, is easy to cut with hand tools, and does not warp from rain. Externally, larch looks like bleached pine with a weakly expressed pattern.

When choosing boards, you should pay attention to the absence of sapwood and fragments of ingrown bark.

An example of the presence of cuts from the bark beetle and resin pockets

Preparatory work

Preparations for creating a wooden gate begin before purchasing materials for it.

1. The width of the passage and the height of the canvas are measured.
2. The type of frame is determined.
3. Drawings of the frame, panel covering and fastening diagrams are made.
4. Beams, boards and fittings are purchased.

Creating a drawing is a mandatory step

The maximum width of a wooden swing gate is 1200 mm. The wide fabric turns out the fastening with its weight, so the hinges must be massive or 3 pairs. Experts advise making the canvas 1000 mm wide. This is enough to walk freely in a warm outerwear. Garden gate at the dacha seasonal residence can have a width of 800 mm.

Drawing of a wooden door

Making and installing a gate with your own hands

To understand how to make a gate, you need to look at this question step by step. Creation wooden structure starts with the frame.

Frame sketch options

It can be metal, from profile pipe. Such a strong base is needed when making combined design, decorated with forging or metal elements. In all other cases, the base is made of wooden beams 20–40 mm thick and 80–100 mm wide.

Frame

There are main types of frames for wooden gates:

• frame;
• rack Z-shaped;
• arched;
• with a portal - a canopy over the entrance.

Components entrance group

Idea for creating a frame

Connection at the corners is possible using the tongue-and-groove principle, if the level of skill allows and a router is available.

To create a three-dimensional frame, slats are nailed along the front side of the canvas along the perimeter or grooves are cut in the horizontal beams of the frame and boards are inserted into them. The frame with this base option is assembled without top crossbar. It is placed on top of the ends of the boards and screwed after covering the base.

Drawing for creating a steel base

The frame frame serves as the basis for more complex species gate designs: with arches, combined inserts, portals. It is strengthened with spacers and struts.

Slatted base

Fences separating a garden from a yard often use a Z-frame. Two horizontal beams with an inclined lintel (strut) do not always represent an independent part. They are fastened together with sheathing boards in the manufacture of lightweight garden structures.

Frame mounting procedure

To create a strong Z-shaped frame, the following operations are performed.

1. Horizontal beams are cut to a length 5 cm less than the width of the opening.
2. They are laid out to size on a flat surface.
3. The brace is noticed after the fact. The ends of the plank are cut at an angle and screwed with long screws.
4. The frame is covered with boards.
5. Canopies are screwed onto the crossbars from the rear side. On the other edge, a latch or latch is attached to the upper horizontal bar.

Decorative canopies with shaped strips can be attached along the front side, as in the photo.

Exterior design option with decorative elements

Arched and carved products are complex in execution and require high level skills, as well as special electrical equipment. They are not suitable for amateurs.

Canvas

The planks are cut to size according to the drawing, taking into account the gap at the bottom. They are laid out on a frame with a gap or completely, as the design is intended. With different lengths, the top is made curly. The actual width of the created gate is checked, the size is adjusted due to the gaps.

Scheme of cladding the entrance group with dry planed boards of class AB

For a solid canvas, the board is immediately ordered with the calculated width so that you do not have to trim the edge strip and there is no gap left between the post and the gate leaf. The boards are sewn with a gap of 1–2 mm, for thermal expansion, so that they do not warp, resting against each other with their ends. This does not affect privacy, since nothing is visible through the gaps. The video clearly demonstrates the ease of making a frame wooden gate.

If the site is surrounded by a fence made of natural wood, then it is better to equip it with wooden gates. This article will talk about how to build a wooden gate with your own hands.

What will be required at work

When making gates you will need the following tools:

• adjustable wrench;
• hammer;
• jigsaw;
• brush;
• electric drill with drills o3 mm and o10 mm;
• chisel;
• hacksaw;
• square;
• plane;
• roulette;
• wood processing machine;
• screwdriver

In addition, you will need materials such as:

• self-tapping screws (regular and with screw thread);
• sandpaper;
• protective coating for wood;
• acetone;
• bars 7x5 cm;
• two bars 5x5 cm;
• four garage hinges;
• board 2.5x10 cm.

Now, after preparing everything you need, you can get to work.

Stage 1. Installation of poles

The gate structure will be attached to the posts. They need to be installed correctly, with the most rigid and reliable fasteners. Even the slightest sagging is unacceptable.

Important! Attention must also be paid to the perpendicularity of the pillars relative to the ground, otherwise geometric shape the gate will be broken. When making calculations, you need to remember that each pillar needs to be lined with half a brick, and this width should also be taken into account during work.

Step 1. First, the installation site is cleared and the locations for the pits are determined. For digging, you can use a bayonet shovel or a small drill. The depth of each hole should be at least 1 m, and the diameter should be made 10 cm larger than the diameter of the pillar (this gap will be filled with concrete mortar).

Step 2. Using a grinder, pipes of the appropriate length are cut, which are inserted into the holes made. The gaps are filled with crushed stone, after which the verticality of each pillar is checked using a plumb line. If necessary, the position is adjusted. The crushed stone is compacted.

Step 3. A liquid solution of “three hundredth” cement and sand is mixed in a ratio of 1:3. First, the dry mixture is mixed, then water is added little by little. After the solution is brought to the desired consistency, crushed stone is poured into it and wait completely dry.

Important! You can add a little washing powder into the solution - this will prevent settling and, as a result, will greatly simplify the laying.

When laying, each seam of the bottom row must overlap with the top one so that the order is extremely strong. At the same time, do not forget about the correctness of the angles, for which you can use the same plumb line.

To improve the aesthetics and drainage characteristics of the structure, each pillar must end with a cap. Such caps can be purchased ready-made or cut from a sheet of galvanized steel.

Step 5. After complete drying, the rows of bricks are embroidered.

Stage 2. Manufacturing of sashes

One of the options for assembling and covering the gate frame
Show on page View full size

Step 1. First, the beams are processed. From them you need to make blanks of the required sizes. So, for standard double-leaf gates you will need:

• two horizontal bars (lower and upper)
• two vertical;
• two for the central jumper.

Step 2. After cutting the workpieces, their surface is processed with a plane or a woodworking machine.

Stage 3. Construction of the frame

Assembly is carried out with a one-sided tenon “on the mustache”.

Step 1. A pair of holes are drilled at each joint, into which self-tapping screws are screwed or dowels made of dried wood are inserted. For reliability, the latter can be pre-coated with epoxy glue.

The use of dowels/screws is necessary to increase the rigidity of the connections.

Step 2. An additional jumper is installed in the center of the frame, to which the cladding of the structure will be attached.

Step 3. A jib is installed in each corner. For this, bars 30-40 cm long are used, the ends of which are cut at an angle of 45?. When attaching the jib to the bars, self-tapping screws are used.

Important! If the gate is, say, 2 m high, then the frame should be calculated in such a way that the boards protrude approximately 20-25 cm. Based on this, you need to make a frame 1.5-1.6 m high.

Stage 4. Sheathing the structure

Step 1. The boards are cut to required size, after which they are planed on both sides until a thickness of 20 cm is reached. The ends are processed in the same way.

Step 2. The boards are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws. You can place the boards end-to-end or in small increments - it all depends on personal preference.

Important! If it was decided to leave small gaps between the boards, then you can use a template for this - wooden slats, the length of which will be equal to the length of the cladding boards. In this case, the thickness of the template will correspond to the step with which it is planned to fasten the boards.

Step 3. After fastening, the upper part of the boards is cut in a straight line, and the cut areas are carefully cleaned with sandpaper.

Stage 5. Gate installation

Step 1. First, hinges are attached to the sashes, and in parallel, “capercaillies” are screwed into the bars with self-tapping screws. The doors are also attached to the pillars with capcacaillie.

Important! Before attaching the capercaillie, you need to drill several centimeters deep in appropriate places. The diameter of the holes should be slightly smaller than the thread of the capercaillie. This simple move will make screwing in the screws much easier.

Step 2. The distance from the bottom edge to the ground should be at least 5 cm. This can be explained by the fact that in the future it is possible to install a new road surface, and with such a gap you won’t have to do any reinstallation.

Step 3. To fix the closed doors, install a metal pin or the padlock. The coating is applied after installation.

Stage 6. Covering the structure

The finished gate must be properly processed, which will require varnish and primer.

Important! When buying varnish, you need to make sure that it is intended specifically for outdoor use. In addition, you should inquire about maximum temperature its operation.

Step 1. The surface is sanded sandpaper or a grinder with a special attachment. All discovered “shells” are sealed with a special wood putty, and after drying the structure is sanded again.

First, coarse-grained sandpaper is used, and after polishing, fine-grained sandpaper is used.

Step 2. The wood is tinted. This will create the texture and desired shade. After the tint has dried, the surface is sanded again (with 100-grit paper).

Important! It is imperative to apply a primer, otherwise some areas of the gate will not be painted and bubbles and waves will form.

Step 3. Following the primer, the first layer of varnish is applied. The instructions should indicate drying time. After this time, a second layer is applied.

Gates are often decorated with iron forging - this gives the product a rich appearance. If you plan to use such forging, then this should be taken care of even before painting and sanding. In this case, the tree is covered with thin tin during work to protect it from damage.

For better tightness, after applying the second layer of varnish, the joints between wood and metal are treated with sealant. Indeed, sometimes it is impossible to achieve a tight fit, and such measures will prevent moisture from penetrating through these holes.

That's it, the wooden gates are ready, all that remains is to equip them with a wooden gate.

Video - Homemade wooden gates

Wooden gate

Before starting work, you need to prepare everything you need, otherwise a lack of one or another material can stop the process, which is extremely undesirable.

So, the work will require:

• hammer;
• mounting level;
• hacksaw;
• sandpaper;
• pencil;
• rope;
• plane;
• electric drill;
• chisel;
• screwdriver;
• jigsaw;
• boards, picket fence;
• iron corners;
• screws for wood;
• accessories - hinges, handle, latch.

Wicket manufacturing technology

Step 1. First, determine the distance between the supports. If you do this correctly, the gate will work smoothly. Supports can be wooden poles or metal pipes(as described above).

The distance between the supports is fixed with a piece of wire placed on the ground and secured with something.

Step 2. Support pillars are installed. The technology is no different from that of wooden gates.

Step 3. Next, the door is made. To do this, four boards are connected at an angle of 90? metal corners. Then hinges are attached to the finished frame, after which it is checked to ensure it fits into the opening. If the result is positive, the frame is covered with a picket fence. The top of the gate is cut with a jigsaw in a straight line (it can also be in the form of waves, zigzags, etc.). The last to be cut is the lock and door handle.

Step 4. At the final stage, the gate is hung on its hinges, after which it is checked whether the door closes/opens freely. To fix the gate in the closed position, you can nail a piece of rubber to the end.

The wooden gate is ready for use.

Video – Beautiful ideas for wooden gates

As a conclusion

As you can see, to make wooden gates or gates, certain knowledge and skills in wood processing will still be required. Therefore, if there is neither one nor the other, it is better not to waste money and contact a specialist. The gate is the face of the house.

But with a firm intention to do everything yourself, all that remains is to wish good luck and masses creative ideas. With one more possible option – sliding gates made of wood - you can find out when watching a thematic video.

Video - Wooden sliding gates

When it comes to installing gates in a country house or on suburban area, you should first decide what exactly they will be, because it is the gate that first catches your eye. It is from them that guests begin their acquaintance with the home, so their construction should be taken quite seriously. It must be said right away that this task can be accomplished different ways and from different materials. The choice must be made based on personal ideas about beauty, but hardly anyone will argue that if there is a wooden fence, the gate should be made of wood.

Gate manufacturing

Before you make a wooden gate or wicket with your own hands, you need to decide on its size and expected appearance, for which it would be quite advisable to carry out a drawing and calculate the quantity necessary materials. After which you can begin to carry out the main construction work.

First you need to install support pillars for the entire gate structure. For wooden gates and gates, wooden posts are best suited. Regarding the material suitable for the pillars, you should choose oak. Its strength characteristics fully correspond to the required ones.

The entire pillar, and most importantly the part of it that will be underground, must be treated with special compounds that will prevent the negative effects of moisture.

After the pillars are prepared, they need to be dug in. To do this, in predetermined places you need to dig two holes about a meter deep.

At the bottom of each of them, sand and crushed stone are poured in two layers as a protective cushion. Layers need to be compacted to achieve the best effect. After this, pillars are installed in the pits; the verticality of their installation must be checked using building level, and it is better to use water. To achieve the greatest strength of the installation, the space that forms between the post and the walls of the pit should be filled with crushed stone. To save money, you can use crushed bricks. After filling half the space, the crushed stone needs to be compacted, then add more and compact it again, this must be done until the entire pit is filled.

The crushed stone is cemented on top for greater strength. Basically, cement-sand mixture can be used to fill the entire space, but this will entail additional material costs.

Manufacturing of cross sections

While the concrete is hardening, you need to, without wasting time, move on to the manufacture of the gate leaves themselves. First you need to build a kind of frame frame with your own hands. Suitable for these purposes wooden beam. If we consider the process in a little more detail, then it is necessary to assemble a rectangular frame of a pre-calculated size. It should be remembered that the frame should be smaller than the finished gate.

So, the individual parts of the frame are fastened together using self-tapping screws. Depending on the size of the wooden gate, the frame can be further reinforced as cross beams, and with bars fixed diagonally. As soon as the frame is ready, it is covered with boards, or a solid wall, or decorative gaps are left, depending on the general style. When the gate leaves are ready, they need to be secured to posts. For these purposes, hanging loops are usually used. Usually one part of them is attached to the post, and the second to the gate. Considering the material of manufacture, two mounting points are enough - at the top and at the bottom.

Completion of work

The final stage in the construction of wooden gates at the dacha can be identified as the installation of handles and all sorts of latches and bolts. These actions are necessary not only to avoid spontaneous opening, but also due to the fact that the gate must perform not only decorative functions, but also protective functions. If we talk about how expedient it would be to build wooden version gates, then it must be said that such gates are quite practical and capable of performing their functions for at least ten years. Of course, for this, the tree must be prepared, that is, treated with special compounds that prevent the appearance of both rot and wood pests. And also for greater aesthetics, wooden gates can be coated with a special varnish.

In conclusion, we can say that if you need not only to build a practical and quite aesthetically attractive gate, but also to make it yourself, without spending much money, then wooden gates are the most suitable option. At correct installation, such gates can serve faithfully for many years and be at the same time a source of pride for the owner and the envy of the neighbors. Moreover, usually, the more pride something causes in the owners, the more envy it causes among neighbors, but that’s another story.

Photo

Video

We bring to your attention a few more wooden gates for inspiration.

Good afternoon, today I will tell you about all-all methods of making gates with your own hands. In this article we will make swing WOODEN gates... But I also talked about metal gates in as much detail as possible - in a special article Metal gates– 50 photo ideas (from forging to metal profiles).

So... today you will find out ALL THE SECRETS... and all the principles... and the nuances of that how to properly make a wooden gate yourself - from scratch - without any skills in this field. At all! That is, you can be a green newlywed student... or a beginning summer resident-retirement... or a pampered city lady who inherited country house... or anyone. If you need a NEW WICKET for your dacha or garden... then... my article is designed just for that TO TEACH you how to make any wickets brilliantly- either for yourself, or for sale to neighbors... Believe me, having assessed your skill, the neighbors themselves will come running to you with the desire to buy the same model of gate (... what a good dacha business... and fun at the same time).

Now let's get down to business... Making and installing gates - who knows, maybe this will be your new profession... with my light hand.

Here's what we'll do:

• Wooden SLATT WICKETS ON A FRAME (several types)
• Wooden FRAME gates (with sheathing or lathing)
• Wooden WICKETS-PORTALS (with pergola-sheathing)
• Wooden gates with ROUND ARCHES (designer and simple)

Yes, yes, all this - you WILL WANT and BE ABLE to do it yourself...After reading this article...

So, let's go... Chapter one... Let's start with something simple (so as not to frighten off faith in the success of the wicket project)...

Wooden garden gates - SLATT (i.e. made of slats, boards)

Everyone has seen gates like this everywhere... in old movies about village life... in your barefoot childhood on summer holidays with your grandmother... at your friends' dacha.

These gates are called FRAME... because... they have a FRAME-HOLDER on which the laths of the LATTINGS are stuffed.

That is, this is the SIMPLE MODEL of a gate for a summer house or garden - which consists of two parts - a FRAME... and PADDING SLATS.

Here in the picture (above and below) we see a standard gate WithZ-shaped frame. That is, first we do letter shaped frameZ, and then we stuff 6-8 wide or narrow slats (boards) onto it. The hinges for hanging the gate to the post are attached to the horizontal beams of the “letter Z” of our frame.
As you can see (in the photo below)... you can attach NOT SLATS to the sides of the gate... but THICKER BAR... for the solidity of the product.

Hinges may be different - the main thing when choosing hinges is to take into account the LOAD that these hinges will bear. The heavier the gate you make, the stronger the fastening loops should be. Hinged gates are called swing gates... because they swing open, i.e. open in one direction.

Here another option THE SAME principle of creating a slatted gate (on a frame in the shape of the letter z)

But with ONE DIFFERENCE... here are the padding slats different lengths...longer in the center, shorter towards the edges.

And it turns out beautiful wave along the top edge of the gate.

Or... look see the photo of the gate below - what an interesting addition that was invented here!!! Alternating low and high slats...

By the way, the frame here is ordinary (not the letter Z), but simply two slats at the bottom and top (this is done for beauty, so as not to distract attention from the original sheathing)

... And it’s worth it... look how interesting the CUTTERING is made...

The slats go CLOSE to each other - they are packed WITHOUT GAPS...

but... long and short ALTERNATE...

That is, we are for the sheathing we prepare 2 GROUPS OF RACKS — LONG group and SHORT group... And we do it so that within their group the slats are also not the same in length (the central one is the longest, next to it are 2 shorter ones, then 2 more shorter ones... and so on to the edges.

We do SACK PACKING WITH ALTERNATING groups... and sizes...that is, CLOSER TO THE EDGES we stuff slightly shortened slats... and CLOSER TO THE CENTER we stuff slightly longer ones.
As you can see... small change...(the designer just played with the long slats) - and what a beauty it turned out to be.

Now let's talk about the frame - for such SLATT FRAME WICKETS.

As we already understood...

...FRAMEWORK for our country gate may look like not just in letter shapeZ …

Here in the pictures of the gates below - we see what can be done another frame for stuffing slats. As hourglass...or in the form of a triangle... any frame silhouette will be correct. The main thing is that it fulfills its task - holding the nailed sheathing boards.
Therefore, you can come up with your own frame shape (and this way and that way will be correct). Nothing limits your imagination. It all depends on what scraps of timber you found in your yard... and how much weight your metal hinged hinges for the future gate will withstand... (what more beams on the frame, the heavier the weight of the finished wicket will be).

Here - in fact, you have already learned how to make a frame gate...

... AND IF YOU WANT TO MAKE THIS Wicket and swing GATES - IN THE SAME STYLE, then here’s a photo idea for you... (gate, gate and fence - all made by the hands of Homo sapiens)

Front view (nice)

Rear view - so you understand what kind of frame there is at the gate... see? Curved cross beams...very nice.
(don't be alarmed bent beam shapes in the frame... we will now gradually approach this)

Here’s something else I’d like to add about frame wooden gates...

If your entrance portal to the yard is TOO WIDE, then the swing gate can be wide, double-leaf... Consist of two halves that swing open in different sides. Here close-up Her photo will be useful for anyone who needs it.

Now we will talk about the FRAME frame for gates...

WOODEN GATES - WITH FRAME...

LET'S LOOK HOW THIS IS DONE FRAME WICKET on specific example from the photo of the gate below. I even I'll draw an assembly diagram such a gate - because clarity in pictures is always clearer than just “a lot of beech trees.”

Such a gate is made according to the principle -

• knocked down a FRAME from the bars...
• filled the frame with SHIATING or lathing (made of boards, slats, plywood)

The beams can be connected using SCREWS... long screws are screwed in diagonally... at an angle.

OR... you can connect the bars of the gate using the GROOVE-PIN method... The bars in their side have GROOVE HOLES (grooves)... and at their ends they have EARS-PINS - the ears are driven into the grooves (with a wooden hammer) and due to this, the frame elements are fastened.

On the diagram of the stages of ASSEMBLY OF SUCH A FRAME WICKET - we see vertical bars the top sheathing - these same ears... with them they are inserted into the holes on the bottom beam - and the top beam of the frame is put on them (with their drilled grooves-holes they fall into the ears of the sheathing beams).

Of course you are interested STEP 3... you probably have a question: “What are these pins sticking out on the beams? And where can I get them?

I'LL TELL YOU. We will fasten these beams in the same way - how balusters are fastened wooden stairs (gee-gee, you don’t know what balusters are?) These are the same sticks that are driven into the stair step with one end and into the railing with the other - they make up stair railing which prevents children from falling down flights of stairs)
Here's what they look like... using the example of this carved BALOST BEAM... (by the way, at your gate, no one forbids you to use NOT SIMPLE... but CARVED sheathing frames - it will be absolutely super).

So these are the same baluster beams are fastened using the PIN METHOD... Here's how to do it yourself. We need a thick drill... and the same cutting thickness wooden stick(this will be the pins) (hmm, even simple hardwood pencils will do for this role, they will hold very well).

So, stocked up with a drill and pins... let's start the process. At the end of our future slats, we drill a hole of such thickness that our wooden stick-pin fit through tightly. We drill to such a depth that this stick will fit in there only partially, 2-5 cm is enough... and so that 2-5 cm of the stick will remain sticking out...

And in this way, having made pins on the beams of the sheathing... and holes on the beam of the gate frame... we will attach the sheathing beams to the wicket FRAME.

As you can see, everything is simple. According to the laws mechanical physics(to enhance strength, you can coat the pins with any wood glue).

These gates from the photo below are made using approximately the SAME TECHNOLOGY...

That is, you can come up with your designs… the main thing is to adhere to a single principle YOU NEED A FRAME... and you need ITS FILLING (in the form of sheathing with a board or batten... or in the form of plywood sheathing)

WHAT WILL THE FRAME OF THE FORM BE – it’s up to you...

See how simple it really is...

You take it and do it - just 2 steps... 1) Made a FRAME... 2) Made it FILLING. And everything is ready - drill holes, hang your new gate on the hinges... And call the neighbors to grab it...

And then.. and swing gates can be made according to the same principle of FRAMEWORK + LATING and COVERING... Beauty... And simplicity...

A swing WICKET can have a FRAME OF ANY SHAPE...

Even curved with graceful curves... and lopsided (with an oblique slope of the upper part)... Like here, for example (photo of the gate below).

Bent FRAME elements (for the frame of the gate) - cut from a wide thick board (or wide beam) - ordinary circular saw.

Here's another option for a FRAME WICKET with BENT beams... If you can order such bent beam elements, then the shape of your gate can become more interesting...

Or such a BENDED FORM can be just CUT FROM A SOLID WIDE AND THICK BOARD... Draw on the board with a pencil the rounded outlines of the future (right and left) frame - and cut it out with a circular saw. After assembling the frame– of three elements – two bent side beams and one lower straight beam.

Inside the frame - we insert a frame from a MIDDLE BEAM... two CROSSED BEAM. Fill in bottom part wicket frame plywood sheathing(we just stuff a sheet of plywood)… and fill the top part with a beautiful diagonal sheathing of slats.

Or here’s another COMPLETELY ROUNDED GATE...

Yes, I agree, this gate in the photo below is made of metal (those who looked closely at the photo noticed)... BUT... what’s stopping us from making the same model of the gate in wooden version. Bars... slats... yes please!!! If only there were pens with a hammer... and eyes with a twinkle...

Hint for those with an idea– semicircular elements of the sheathing... we cut out a sheet of plywood with a jigsaw... we draw such “arcs are not very wide” and cut them out with a jigsaw as in labor lessons at school... And the upper arc-shaped beam... we saw out Not from thin plywood... and from a thick board, with a circular saw.

Filling of the wicket frame can be CONTINUOUS (i.e. without holes)…

For example, you can simply nail up a wooden frame with boards HORIZONTALLY... (as in the photo below)...

Or nail it up with boards DIAGONALLY... now I’ll tell you step by step how such a gate is made...

1. We make a frame for the gate - we make it from beams (it can be rectangular, it can be with a rounded top)
2. A narrow strip is tacked onto the inner sides of the frame... tightly... tacked at an angle.
3. And then, onto this inner narrow river, a board is placed at an angle... and it is placed on both sides of the gate - on the front and on the back. To avoid holes... we stuff the board onto slats WITH SPACE between the boards 2 times narrower than the width of the board itself... Thanks to this, the back, back padding of the board will completely cover these gaps (made by the front front board).

Or maybe a gate fill the bottom with plywood... on top - with boards butt-to-butt... and for beauty on bottom sheet plywood sheathing fill a thin lath - in the form of a diagonal lattice pattern. And paint it one color.

IN SHORT DON'T BE AFRAID... Do it. It’s clear in the picture... it’s simple in reality.

You can start with the most simple options... Everything will work out... and you will be proud of yourself - so skillful and skilled (oh boy, he's in great demand!!!)

And also... if you have extra money... or a good blacksmith you know... then such a FRAME wicket can be supplemented with forging elements... That is, in the sheathing of the gate, use NOT WOODEN BALOSTS... but metal picket fence– forged or welded. Here's how it was done in the photo of the gate below.

And we continue...

AND NOW IT WILL BE ABSOLUTELY COOL))))

WOODEN GATES… WITH ENTRANCE PORTAL…

Portal to another world... Oh! how beautiful and promising it sounds... But it’s really your territory... your garden... this is another world, with an atmosphere of comfort and hospitality that you and your family have created yourself.

So why not make the gate in the form of a PORTAL to happiness...

The simplest option is in the photo below. It looks good if there are tall bushes... lush trees... or a plant crawling along the portal.

And in the photo below we see how small arc-shaped wire frame thrown between the left and right support posts of the gate. The wildly blooming bindweed is specially thrown onto this iron wire pergola - and a beautiful portal strewn with flowers is created... The gate opens and, passing under the flowery arch, we feel a wonderful aroma.

Also... the entrance portal to the garden can be decorated in the form of a PERGOLA...(a pergola is columns supporting a sheathing of beams). On the “Family Heap” website I devoted several articles to these wonderful structures... see . Pergolas - how to make it yourself SIMPLE LESSONS.

This is how here - 4 beams on the left and right - hold two horizontal beams... they are covered with a sheathing of boards. The gate can be any (in the photo below we see a forged gate)

And here is another version of the PERGOLA-PORTAL...

There’s nothing terrible here either... it’s just something bad in appearance...

but in fact... when looking at the X-ray... we see what is here...

• ... 2 powerful thick beams each hold a BEAM WITH SLOTS... there are three slots... (the beam-column holds this beam with the help of an ordinary metal foot-thrust - they are black with 4 screws in the photo)
• There are 3 horizontal boards placed in the slot...
• and on top of the boards there is padding and lathing with thick slats.

All! We're done!

Your little son has already built something like this out of Legos... but your construction set will be larger, and that’s the whole difference.

The diagram, as you can see, is not complicated (9th grade drawing). They took a friend to help and started stirring up grandiose project... And we already know how to make a gate (note, a frame one) (we just learned how).

And here’s another model of a garden gate - with a canopy roof... it’s a little overgrown with bindweed... but through the green foliage you can see what’s here...

• supporting columns... 2 on the left and 2 on the right...
• We place a beam on each pair of columns - a left beam and a right beam.
• On these side bars - we put the roof on... the drawing of the canopy roof will be in the form two silhouettes of the letter A, made from beams. You need 2 such beam beeches-A (back frame and front frame) that are connected to each other by a beam - the ends of which are nailed to the tops of these beeches A.

And the model of the gate from the first lesson of our article is an ordinary frame in the shape of the letter Z - and a sheathing with a board - which was then (after stuffing onto the frame) cut out with a saw in a semicircle. It turned out very tender.

Wooden gates WITH ARCHED VOX…

And here is another type of design of frame gates for the garden... This is when the SUPPORTING POSTS of our gate continue upwards - forming arched bend.

That is, we made a gate... installed support pillars... hung it on the gate ( metal loops)... and we live... And suddenly we wanted to add something... And we decide to make an ARCHED VOX...

On a thick board (the same thickness as the support pillars) we draw halves of the arc - cut them out - fasten one common arc together - and install it on the support pillars - one edge of the arc on one pillar - the second on another pillar. Fastening the arc elements can be done using the same SLOT-PIN METHOD (which I talked about earlier in this article).

Here are more variations on the same theme...
A) gray gate - here we insert an arc between the supporting posts of the gate - and attach it to the screws. And we also cut out the board panel of the gate itself according to a round stencil.

B) green gate - to arched design support pillars ADDING PILLARS HOLDING THE PERGOLA... along which the green vine climbs.

Usually these fences are always made of brick(this is the most economical material) ... and then they are either plastered ... and painted in a color that pleases you. Nearby you can hang a flashlight(very cozy and fabulous)... and there will definitely be more greenery around effect of an old Italian house.

Or the facade of such a brick arch-fence is covered with tiles imitating stone.

And also... wooden gates can be made from RAW WOOD... or rather, processed by time... and not by a carpentry machine

WICKETS FROM DRY STAND... DRY BAGS AND BRANCHES.

If you live in an area rich in windfall and dead wood, then you don’t have to go far to get material for a gate.
Here are some delicate designer things you can do for your garden...
Precisely as garden gate I propose this option. For the front part of the house, such a gate, of course, will not be suitable... but for a corner of peace and quiet, for a lush overgrown corner of your hacienda, such a gate will be very useful (if this is permissible by the overall design concept of your garden).

And here is an example of a gate made of the same beams and branches.

That's all for today... That's how many wooden swing gates we did it today - in our minds... Now all that remains is to do it with our own hands - in life.

I really hope this article has given you COURAGE and the itch for CREATIVE EXPERIMENT.

Now the spirit of the COOPER sits in you. It's time to go look for beams and boards suitable for your idea... or, on the contrary, push the birth of an idea away from the materials available.

And this article was written (and in some places drawn) by a woman.

Because... only a woman can inspire a man to create beauty. What I actually did these two days for a solid 16 hours.
So go and create (and I’ll go and finally eat...)

Olga Klishevskaya, especially for the site

Take care of your family heaps... These are your legs and arms.
These are your ears and eyes... and a source of warmth and affection.

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