How to work with a manual wood router. How to work with a manual router? Video tutorials on working with a manual router

Anyone who is interested in working with wood, does it as a hobby or professionally - a hand router will be an indispensable assistant. First of all, it facilitates the work of cutting loops, holes of complex configuration.

Working with a milling cutter - process features

Before you start working with the tool, you must remember the following rules:

• A sharp tool is required for the job. With insufficient sharpness of the cutting edges, the electric motor overheats.
• The working material must be firmly fixed to prevent movement.
• It is not recommended to cut to the full depth - this will damage the engine and create an unnecessary load on the cutter as well. With a large depth of the required cutting, it should be done in stages, removing layer by layer.
• Replace the cutter with a completely de-energized unit.
• In the event of the appearance of extraneous vibrations, it is necessary to urgently stop work until the causes are clarified.

Receptions. What can be done by working with a milling cutter

Using a manual router, you can cut out parts and products of various configurations - shelves, racks, railings and other parts. This tool is indispensable when used at home. For example, when restoring old furniture. Having gained experience, it is quite possible to do the following things:

1. To process flat and shaped surfaces, facades.
2. Cut out various recesses: imitation of panels, grooves, ridges. Perform wood trimming.
3. Punch holes.
4. Apply various inscriptions - engrave.
5. Carry out insertion of door fittings - locks and hinges.
6. You can make a complex connection - a spike. Provide reliable docking of wood parts.

List of necessary tools and accessories for working with a milling cutter:

• cutter
• Electric jigsaw
• Electric drill with drills
• Templates for cutting out details
• File
• Protective clothing

The depth to which it is planned to go deep is regulated by setting the distance between the pin and the washer near the electric motor. To maintain the distance from the edge of the workpiece, a straight guide is used.

Note! In some models, the kit additionally has a circular guide used for milling circles with large radii. For circles with a radius of less than 25 cm, technological holes are made at the base of the tool for a centering pin, into which it will be inserted at a certain distance. Grooving can be done with an angle stop.

How to make a circle with a router

Milling various round holes is done with templates. They are performed using an adjustable rod compass, which is a metal rod. A height-adjustable center is located at one end, the other end is fixed in the holes of the base for a parallel stop.

To work you need:

• Loosen the stop screw.
• Ensure that the length of the compass rod is adjusted to the desired radius.

When milling external arcs, you should monitor the distance from the center to the inner cutting edge of the cutter, and for internal arcs - from the center to the outer edge. It is possible to fix the leg of the compass on the material by directly sticking the leg of the compass into the material if this part will be thrown into the scrap. Otherwise, you can put a piece of plywood by gluing it on double-sided tape.

Processing of metals with a manual milling cutter

Processing metal (stainless steel or aluminum) with a milling cutter is not the best idea, because, unlike a metal processing machine, it does not have a gearbox and gearbox. However, in the absence of a professional tool, the device will fit for one-time work. A hand mill, due to its design and functions, allows processing in two planes: vertical and horizontal. When working, you should correctly determine the direction of movement of the tool.

Note! To work on metal, the milling cutter must be set to the minimum speed, as there is a danger of softening of the metal during operation. Be sure to make the minimum depth of the passage.

Joiner's connections with a manual milling cutter

Various connections that serve to strengthen structures, from furniture to building elements, are made using wood cutting tools. One of these connections that can be made by a milling cutter are dovetail, tenon-groove, tongue and groove connections, and more. This can be achieved with the help of various special cutters.

Edge trimming with a hand router

There are two ways to remove the edge: with or without a template. An inexperienced carpenter is better off using a template. To process the edges of the cutter board, you will need 2 - with bearings at the beginning and end of the cutting part.

How to make a hole with a cutter

On the working platform, it is necessary to mark the axis around which the cutter will move. Mark the radius from the furthest cutter, make a hole and install the axle.

Note! When working, the eyes must be protected by goggles!

How to make a grooved board with a manual router

To perform this work, high-quality material is required - dry, without visible damage. The board is fixed with clamps to the table, marked with a pencil. A quarter groove is selected in the edge, in the opposite edge, quarters are selected from both sides, forming a spike. This is the end of the job.

How to mill a radius

To start work, you must insert the cutter into the boring head. The boring head by moving it to the side allows you to adjust the radius of the recess. The depth of the recess is adjusted by shifting the milling table. Chamfers are removed with a cutter.

How to make accurate cutting of chipboard with a manual router

In the case of processing parts with a milling cutter, a margin of about 5 mm is made on each side. The milling cutter provides an ideal cutting surface after processing. No chips or cracks guaranteed.

A hand router is an indispensable tool for most carpentry work. For those who want to master the skills of a carpenter and learn how to make with their own hands not only various wooden crafts, but also original beautiful wooden furniture decorated with carvings, it is advisable to familiarize yourself with the main features of using the device. In Rus', since ancient times, houses, furniture and other products have been decorated with wood carvings. In many cities there are museums of wooden architecture, the exhibits of which cause admiration and surprise.

A mechanized tool can significantly speed up the execution of work, production can even be put on stream if there is a sales market. Of course, in addition to a manual router, you will need a workbench, various fixtures, and high-quality material.

Basic Operations of a Hand Router

The use of manual wood routers allows you to perform the following types of processing:

• production of slots, folds, grooves;
• precise processing of laminate for furniture and other products;
• various types of carving on wooden surfaces, engraving works;
• cutting round and oval holes;
• the device of connecting spikes of various types;
• grinding work;
• cutting quarters;
• production of sockets for fittings.

With the availability of equipment, a wood router can be used to work with plastic, plexiglass, artificial stone, and non-ferrous metals. In skillful hands, the device will be able to show all its capabilities.

Manual milling machines are available in three types:

• for processing lamellas;
• for processing edges;
• upper.

A lamellar router is used to make connecting grooves in various parts. The edge router is designed for precise edge cutting and chamfering. Both devices are highly specialized and are rarely used for other work.

Type "top" is available in 2 versions: fixed and submersible. This type is the most versatile and is used for most operations.

Stationary - the device is an electric motor with the function of adjusting the depth of the cut. The depth of milling is set by moving the milling cutter relative to the sole and is fixed with a special clamp. When starting work, you need to hold the tool on weight above the selected point and slowly deepen the rotating cutter. At the first attempts, this operation is usually very difficult, the cutter goes away from the right place.

This drawback has been eliminated on submersible type milling devices. Rigid springs and guides for moving in a vertical plane are installed between the sole and the engine. The immersion depth is set and fixed with a special clamp. In the normal position, the cutter does not reach the surface of the material. In order for the cutter to begin to deepen, it is necessary to press the device with force. The clamp will limit the immersion depth. When the pressure disappears, the router will automatically rise and the workpiece will be stopped. This design greatly simplifies the work.

The most requested types of work

All types of surface treatment that a manual wood router can perform can be classified into several categories:

1. Production of long longitudinal and transverse recesses with various section shapes. This category includes quarters, grooves, grooves. Slots can go to the edge of the product (open) or located inside (closed). They are mainly used with a constructive purpose in groove-ledge joints.
2. Production of edges of various shapes (profiling). With the help of this operation, it is possible to produce glazing beads, platbands, skirting boards, cornices and other products with various surface shapes. In addition to the constructive function, these details are used as decorative elements.
3. Production and processing of complex contours and surfaces. This operation is used in the manufacture of furniture, various interiors for rooms, and handicrafts. In the serial processing of products, templates are used that allow the manufacture of identical elements of parts with great accuracy.
4. The device of various elements for constructive purposes. Basically, these are holes for mounting parts.

The main operations that can be performed are listed. If you have tools and fixtures, the list can be much longer.

Router Tool

Work with a manual wood router is performed using cutter nozzles with the shape of the cutting edge necessary for processing. Differently shaped surfaces have a cylindrical shank for mounting in a collet. The tool is manufactured with fixtures of a standard size corresponding to the size of the collets. Trade enterprises offer a wide range of cutters of various shapes and sizes. When purchasing a tool, you need to pay attention to the material of the cutting edges. For wood of different hardness, different steel is used.

To process parts with the required accuracy, it is necessary to ensure a stable position of the tool relative to the surface in 3 planes. The vertical position is provided by a sole with an immersion mechanism.

A stable position in the horizontal plane can be maintained in several ways:

• use a cutter with a guide bearing;
• use the guide bushing on the support surface of the router;
• use accessories supplied with the device or purchased separately.

Milling cutters with a guide bearing in most cases are used for processing the edges of parts and have the corresponding name - edge cutters. The shape and size of the tool can be very diverse.

The guide sleeve and fixtures are used when working with groove cutters. Mounting a bearing on this type of tool is not possible because the cutting surfaces are in the vertical and horizontal plane of the tool.

Installing and changing tools

Installation and change of cutters can be performed on the device with the base removed or assembled. The main rule is that the tool must be disconnected from the mains. Shutdown does not mean the start button turned off, but the plug with the power cord of the router removed from the socket.

You can change the tool correctly in the following order:

• place the milling cutter in a position convenient for access;
• fix the spindle or motor shaft (some models are equipped with a special button for fixing, if not, fix with a key);
• loosen the clamping nut of the collet clamp, remove the cutter;
• insert a new tool to a depth of at least 20 mm or until it stops;
• tighten the collet clamp;
• unlock the spindle or motor shaft.

If there is no tool in the collet, it cannot be tightened with a nut. He might break.

Optimum rotation speed

Compared to other power tools, the router operates at higher speeds - over 10,000 rpm. At higher speeds, the quality of the machined surface is much better. Working at high speeds has its drawbacks - the tool and the surface become very hot due to friction. The surface of the part may be charred from high temperatures. When using large diameter cutters, centrifugal force may cause the device to fail and break.

To eliminate these shortcomings, start buttons with adjustable rotation speed are installed on the motors of the milling cutters. On some models, the speed control is not combined with the start button.

The surface finish depends on 2 parameters that are closely related - the speed of rotation of the cutter and the linear speed of the surface of the cutter. At the same rotational speed, cutters with a larger diameter will have a higher linear speed. The regulator will help bring these ratios to the optimal value. To use the regulator correctly, you need to look at the table of manufacturer's recommended values ​​for various tool diameters. When choosing a speed, the hardness of the material being processed must be taken into account. Here the ratio is inversely proportional - for hardwood it is desirable to use low speeds and vice versa.

If the router heats up when working at low speeds, for quick cooling, you need to run it at maximum idle speed. The air flow will quickly cool the engine and other parts of the device, as well as remove accumulated dust.

Direction of tool rotation

How to work with a manual router so that the rotation of the tool ensures maximum efficiency?

The rotation of the tool may or may not match (advance) the direction of movement of the device. The main and correct position will be counter milling, when the cutting edge creates a force directed against the movement of the device, pushes it back.

Climb milling can be used only in emergency situations, when material chips are formed during counter milling. When working with a passing direction, special care must be taken. Coinciding forces can pull the device out of your hands, causing injury.

Depth adjustment

For precise processing of the part in depth, many devices are equipped with special regulating and limiting devices. Despite the different designs, the principle of operation is the same in most cases.

The procedure for setting the required depth is as follows:

• install the device vertically on a flat surface;
• set the disk with stops to the position of maximum depth;
• release the limiter fixing screw;
• disable the engine start blocking system;
• lower the engine until the cutter touches the surface;
• block the engine in this position;
• lower the depth gauge to the stop opposite;
• set the position indicator to the zero mark of the scale;
• raise the limiter so that the pointer on the scale matches the required size;
• fix the slider;
• unlock the engine.

Setting the required milling depth is now complete. A disk with 3 stops is needed for a large depth of processing of the part. In order not to create a large load on the tool and device, processing is carried out in several passes. First you need to select the highest stop (the first pass at the minimum depth), then the second (middle depth) and the third (maximum).

A milling cutter is a rather expensive and dangerous device during operation.

When working with a manual router, it is necessary to observe all the safety measures specified in the instructions.

Before using new untested methods of work, you need to carefully weigh all the positive and negative points so as not to be without a tool with injured limbs or other parts of the body.

A milling cutter is a tool for processing lumber that makes many rotations at high speed. There is both professional equipment, such as milling and engraving machines, and for self-processing, requiring certain skills and knowledge. Detailed instructions with a training video on the site will help to carry out high-quality wood processing operations with a manual electric milling cutter.

Working with a manual wood router helps to carry out the following carpentry operations:

1. Processing of flat and shaped surfaces, edge profiling of platbands, skirting boards, cornices, glazing beads.
2. Formation of technological and figured recesses (grooves, ridges, etc.).
3. Production of through and blind holes.
4. Cutting complex parts from wood, copying them.
5. Drawing inscriptions, drawings, patterns on the surface (engraving).
6. Insert locks and hinges on the door.
7. Manufacturing of spiked joints. This is a complex process that requires special skills, resulting in a high-strength assembly of wooden products.

Depending on the type of work performed by a manual wood router, the video tutorials of which can be viewed at the end of the article, you will need the following tools:

• cutter
• Electric jigsaw
• Electric drill and drills
• Templates
• File
• Protective clothing and respirator.

With the help of such a tool, a novice master can bring old furniture back to life, carry out small carpentry and decorative work with wood around the house.

Choice of electric milling machine

In order to mill at home, it is recommended to choose a universal tool, which is an electric router with an interchangeable base - submersible and edge, thanks to which it performs any kind of woodwork, depending on the type of cutter chosen. It is better if it has speed control, work with a cutter with a diameter of at least 8 mm, the optimal power should be 800-1300 watts. When choosing a tool, you should pay attention to the actual depth of immersion of the cutter, on which the maximum depth of the resulting groove will depend.

The best option for clamping the cutter is a cone collet, and for the switch, a locking button. The smoother the operation of the rod mechanism, the more durable the tool.

An important point in the operation of an electric mill is the correct choice of a cutter, which consists of a cylindrical shank of various diameters (6.8 or 12 mm) and a part with a cutting edge.

By design, cutters are divided into the following types:

• Monolithic
• prefabricated
• With replaceable blades.

Depending on the type of processing performed by the cutter, it also comes in several varieties:

• A groove cutter is used to form grooves.
• Profile - to give the edge a decorative profile.
• The edge cutter and seam cutter are used to process the edges of the product.
• Fillet - for cutting a "U"-shaped notch on the product.
• The conical cutter bevels the edge of the product at an angle of 45 degrees.
• Moulder - forms a rounded edge.

Work with a manual router: instructions for beginners

Working with a manual router, the video tutorials of which will help the novice master, may seem difficult only at the beginning of the process. With the acquisition of the first skills in woodworking with your own hands, it will be possible to proceed more boldly.

1. Work with a manual router begins with the assembly of the tool. A cutter suitable for the diameter of the collet chuck is inserted into it. If necessary, the cartridge itself is replaced by another in diameter. Then the shank is tightened in the chuck with a special key with a clamping force sufficient so that the cutter does not hang out in it. After that, the spindle mechanism is clamped, the tool is ready for work.
2. The required cutting depth is then set. To do this, you need to fix the position of the cutter by pressing on it. The exact depth is set using the limiter regulator, which has several degrees.
3. The speed of the router is set based on the table data from the instructions and material parameters, as well as the size of the cutter itself. Work with a hand router on wood should first be done on a draft in order to test the stroke of the tool, the depth of milling and the speed of work. The correct course of milling is to move the tool away from you on a flat basis, and counterclockwise when circularly cutting the product. More details on how to work with a manual milling cutter are described in the training video.

Manual milling cutter: ways of working

Depending on the type of processing performed, the choice of working methods with a manual router depends. The following is the work on a manual router (training video), methods and techniques.

Methods of work with a manual milling cutter: the formation of grooves

When forming a groove from the very edge, the tool should be installed so that the cutter hangs over the edge of the product. Further, it descends to the required depth and is fixed, after which the tool is put into operation. After processing the edge to the end, you need to loosen the lock, raise the cutter, the tool motor can be turned off. The formation of a blind groove is carried out in exactly the same way, only it does not start from the edge of the product.

A deep groove is formed by setting a new depth of the cutter at each approach of the treated area, with a depth of no more than 5 mm, when processing the last layer - no deeper than 1.5 mm.

Additional ways to form grooves and lessons on how to work with a manual router (video in Russian) are presented below.

End surface treatment

Working with a manual wood router (video below) is often accompanied by end surface processing, which requires a clean edge. To do this, a shallow cut is first made, while the electric milling cutter moves in the direction of rotation of the knife, and then against its rotation. After that, the butt will acquire a clear outline.

Processing with templates

To form curved edges, templates with a stop ring are used, which is a plastic plate that moves along the template for the correct path of the cutter. The thrust ring is attached to the sole of the router using special fasteners. Using templates, you can copy wooden parts in the right quantity.

Work with a manual router: video of decorative processing

For artistic milling, in addition to the cutter, you will need a jigsaw, a vice, a chisel, a canvas made of wood with a pattern. It is fixed on a well-stable surface, and an electric mill equipped with a special cutting nozzle is carried out according to the pattern, gradually removing the layer of wood until the required volume of the ornament is reached.

1. Basics at work
2. Work rules
3. Open groove
4. deep groove
5. narrow groove
6. end surface
7. Curved edges
8. decorative trim

The purchase of a hand-held woodworking tool can give impetus to the development of a new and very exciting profession, which gathers more and more fans every year. Numerous video tutorials and photos containing the author's methods of working with a manual milling cutter are replicated on the Internet, which once again proves the popularization of the craft, which the Russian people have chosen for a long time. If you do not yet know all the basics of manual woodworking and are just getting acquainted with specialized household equipment, the following information will be useful to you.

What can be done with a hand mill?

Of course, we are unlikely to be able to list all those useful gizmos that can be made at home with a manual router, certain skills and desires due to the unlimited range of such crafts, but we will still mention the most common of them, and if necessary, you can easily find photos of such homemade products on the Internet.

So, armed with a manual milling cutter, even a novice master can easily cope with the manufacture of railings, all kinds of shelving and shelves, hangers and stools. Now it has become fashionable to breathe new life into old dilapidated furniture at home, and this process will definitely be within your power.

Also, a manual milling cutter will be indispensable where it is necessary to select grooves for future joints, insert a lock, and even create a fancy intricate pattern on the surface of the wood, which serves as a decorative ornament. Even if you do not plan to keep such a versatile tool in your hands around the clock, sooner or later it will certainly serve you well in everyday life.

Basics at work

The depth of cut here is regulated by a lifting mechanism that connects the two main parts of the router - the electric drive and the base. To be more precise, the parameters of the penetration of the cutter into the material being processed are set by setting a certain distance between the pin and the washer located next to the motor. In order for the milling machine to maintain the same distance relative to the edge of the workpiece when moving, it has a straight guide. Some models are equipped with a circular guide, with which it is possible to mill circles with a large radius. For small circles (radius less than 15 cm), technological holes are provided on the base of the equipment, into which a centering pin is inserted at a distance specified from the cutter.

The selection of grooves is carried out using an angular stop fixed on the machine body at a right angle. Before starting work, the carpenter must ensure that the workpiece of the future product has a fixed position, because the lack of a reliable support will inevitably lead to the fact that the edges of the groove will be crooked, and this will negatively affect the final result of the work. Please note that it is not recommended to remove a layer of wood exceeding 5 mm in one pass. Sufficiently deep grooves according to the technology are selected in several steps. Work with a manual wood router should be done smoothly, without haste and sudden movements, otherwise you will have to face such an unpleasant phenomenon as torn edges of the groove.

Setting up the tool and getting started

Wood router, like any other equipment, needs to be adjusted before starting the work process. First of all, the safety nut and the clamping collet are removed, after which the unit is started and a control cut is carried out. Next, check whether the screws and other threaded parts are well clamped and remove excess protective grease.

Beginners often make the mistake of not holding the milling machine firmly enough in their hands, or applying excessive force to the material being processed. At the corners of the workpiece, as well as when changing the direction of movement of the router, the speed of movement of the unit is not slowed down so as not to leave burns from overheating the machine.

Work rules

Depending on the nature of the work performed, the carpenter chooses the method of their implementation. For example, the processing of curved surfaces differs from decorating wood crafts with an openwork pattern, and here the main thing is to follow the rule for using a particular technique, taking into account the peculiarity of a particular process. We have selected the most common cutting techniques for you, accompanying each method with a thematic video.

Open groove

If you plan to process the workpiece by forming a groove from the very edge, install the tool so that the cutting element hangs over the edge of the wood. Then it is necessary to lower the knife to a predetermined depth and fix the position of the basket, after which the engine starts and the feed begins. When the edge is finished, the cutter rises and the lock is loosened, and only then the motor can be turned off. Blind grooves are formed in a similar way, with the only difference that they do not start from the edge of the part.

deep groove

In this case, after each pass of the processed area, it is necessary to adjust the new depth of immersion of the cutter into the wooden material, after turning off the cutter, and it is desirable that the depth does not exceed 5 mm. This rule applies especially to hard materials that require careful handling. The last layer should not exceed 1.5 mm, which will make it possible to create a clean surface.

narrow groove

In this case, for greater convenience in work, the wood is processed using an additional device. The process to be carried out consists in attaching a flat base to the sole of the unit. Guide rods are installed on both sides of the auxiliary plane, providing a straight trajectory of the router, the main thing is that their axes are located on the same line with the center of the knife. If the master will use an auxiliary device with a router, it must be guided so that the rods are evenly pressed against the sides of the workpiece.

end surface

Carpentry work on wood with a hand mill is often associated with the processing of the ends of the workpiece, and here it is very important to get a clean edge. A practice-tested rule will come to the aid of a novice master, stating that a fairly gentle cut is initially performed, while the tool is guided in the direction of rotation of the knife. With this design, the main part of the wood material will be selected evenly, after which you clean the end face in the usual way, leading the router against the direction of rotation of the cutting element, and the appearance of the workpiece will acquire the desired shape.

Curved edges

Milling curved edges with a hand router is done in a slightly different way, and here the master will need templates with a thrust ring. The ring itself is a round plate with a rim that moves along the template, giving the cutter the correct path of movement. Such a part is fixed on the sole of the tool with the help of special fasteners, after which it can be used for its intended purpose.

Before starting the main process, the template must be fixed on the plane being processed, and this can be done using ordinary double-sided tape, after which the resulting structure is pressed with clamps to the desktop. The use of templates allows you to create exactly the same products from which you can make furniture or any other interior details.

decorative trim

Patterns on the tree are designed to decorate joinery, giving them a decorative "zest". Artistic milling is perhaps the most interesting method of processing natural material, because here the craftsmen can fully give free rein to their imagination, and a manual machine will help to cope with this task without any problems. Wood is very malleable in work, the main thing is to know how the processing is carried out correctly so that the result is really worthy.

In addition to the milling cutter, a vice, a jigsaw and a chisel will come in handy here, which you will have to use during the work. A wooden canvas with a pattern transferred from a picture or photo you like is fixed on a stable surface. A tool with a special cutting nozzle is smoothly driven along the contour of the pattern, carefully removing a layer of wood, thereby giving it volume. Using a cutter of different sizes will allow you to create a different ornament, depending on personal preferences. Now you know how to work with a manual milling tool and can try it out in practice.

A milling cutter is a unique tool with great functionality, which is an indispensable assistant in carpentry. A manual milling cutter can create various types of connections between wooden parts, produce figured processing of edges, ribs and layers of workpieces, use it for selecting grooves and recesses, as well as for wood carving and metal engraving.

Despite its ease of use, the router is a traumatic tool if used without following simple rules. So, the basic rules for working with this unit are as follows.

Preparing the tool for work

The most important thing to do before starting milling is to set up the unit for a certain type of work, taking into account the properties of the material being processed and the type of equipment.

Speed ​​selection

A milling cutter is a unit capable of developing very high spindle speeds, from 8000 to 24000 rpm or more. The higher the speed of rotation of the tool, the cleaner the surface will be. But you should be aware that exceeding the permissible speed for certain cutters can cause the workpiece to burn at the processing sites. Therefore, in addition to the speed of rotation of the tool shank, one should also take into account blade linear speed. As a rule, the larger the diameter of the tool, the higher the linear speed of rotation of the cutting edge of the tool. If you plan to use a large diameter tool, then the spindle speed will need to be slightly reduced.

Below is a table, using which you can choose the optimal rotation speed of the tool, depending on its diameter.

In addition, when choosing the rotation speed of the tool, the hardness of the material being processed should also be taken into account. Milling of hard woods is required to be carried out at a lower speed than recommended for a certain diameter of the tool.

You should also reduce the speed of the tool if cutting PVC, processing plexiglass and plastics is required. At high speeds, the plastic will begin to melt and stick to the tooling blades. In each case, the rotation speed is selected experimentally.

Installing the cutter

Before changing a tool, disconnect the cutter from the mains. Disabling the start button will not be enough. It is very important to unplug the cord from the socket to prevent accidental starting of the engine.

The tooling changes as follows.

It should be remembered: the collet nut cannot be tightened if there is no equipment in it. This will cause it to break.

Depth setting

Almost all milling machines are equipped with depth controls. Setting the immersion depth of the tool is as follows:

As a result, if you lower the drive until the stop (2) touches the lowest step of the turret stop, you will get the maximum extension of the cutter relative to the sole of the unit. This value of immersion of the tool into the workpiece will be final, that is, it will have the required depth.

If you want to make a deep groove that cannot be selected in one pass, then you can use the turret to gradually plunge the tool into the workpiece. To do this, move the highest step of the turret (1) under the depth stop (2) and carry out milling. Next, place the next, lower stop under the stop, and again make one pass with the tool. When the stop reaches the lowest stop, the desired groove depth will be obtained. The following figure shows how the tool is gradually deepened into the workpiece when using a turret stop.

Edge processing

For processing the edges and ends of the workpiece, special edge cutters. They can be both straight and curly. Straight cutters are used for trimming (aligning) the edges of parts according to a template (curvilinear) or along a ruler. For example, if you cut chipboard with an electric jigsaw, then in this case you cannot do without a router. The edge after passing the nail file is uneven and with small chips. To give it the perfect geometry, do the following.

For processing the ends of workpieces, you can use conventional submersible (vertical) milling machines. If you need to remove PVC edge overhangs, the thickness of which can reach up to 4 mm, it will be more convenient to work with an edge router, because it has a compact size and low weight.

Shaped end mills mainly used for processing wood products and MDF. In this case, the workpiece is first shaped using a straight miter cutter. And after that, a tool with the required curly profile is inserted into the collet and the edge is processed in the usual way. Only the aligned edge of the workpiece serves as a template or guide for the bearing.

When milling wooden parts, the direction of the wood fibers must be taken into account.. If this is not done, chips will occur at the corners of the workpieces or at the transition points of the longitudinal fibers to the end fibers when processing, for example, curved parts. To avoid chips, you should circle the “problem” places on the workpiece with chalk (Figure A). If you go through these areas with a cutter in the usual way (counterclockwise), then most often this will cause the formation of chips. Therefore, up to the “problem” zones, the tool is fed counterclockwise, and in the places where the fibers pass, the direction changes to the opposite (Figure C).

The same rule applies to processing corners of wooden blanks. First, the cutter must pass along the fibers in a clockwise direction (through the corner), after which the trimming continues in the usual way.

If MDF facades are milled (before pasting them with plastic) or other products from this material, then you should not worry about chips, since the material has a uniform structure.

Hole cutting

To cut holes in wooden blanks, you can use straight groove cutter. If the hole has a complex shape, then it is cut out by a router according to a pre-prepared template using a copy ring. The latter is attached to the sole of the router and, during the operation of the unit, sets the movement of the tool in the desired direction.

So, to cut a hole in a wooden blank, you need to perform the following operations:

• fasten a straight groove cutter in the collet of the apparatus;
• attach a copy sleeve to the sole of the router;
• put on the workbench the workpiece in which you want to make a hole;
• place small pieces of chipboard under the workpiece to slightly raise it above the table (this is required for the tool to exit when cutting through the part);
• place the template with the hole already prepared on the workpiece and press both parts to the table with clamps;
• set the minimum cutter overhang (about 3 mm) relative to the sole of the machine;
• turn on the router and gently lower it onto the template so that the cutter gently enters the material;
• carry out milling around the entire perimeter of the template;
• lower the cutter another 3 mm and repeat the above operation;
• keep adding 3mm of depth until the cutter goes right through the workpiece.

In the same way it is possible cut a round hole according to the corresponding template. But in order to cut a circle in the workpiece, there is a much easier way. The package of most models of milling cutters already includes circular device. It consists of a rod with an adjustable (pointed) screw on one side.

The bar is attached to the sole of the unit, and a pointed screw is inserted into the hole that serves as the center of the future circle. Next, you need to set the desired radius, taking into account the diameter of the cutter. The following figure shows how to correctly calculate the hole radius.

Milling is carried out in the usual way in several stages, each time deepening the tool by 3 mm.

You can also drill holes with a router, for example, for the installation of furniture hinges. This is done in the following way.

1. Clamp in the collet of the implement Forstner drill required diameter.
2. Set the minimum spindle speed.
3. Place the router on a flat surface.
4. Lower the cutter so that the spike in its center does not reach the table surface by 2-3 mm, and fix the drive on the rails.
5. Next, lower the depth gauge onto any step of the turret and secure it with the locking screw. Thanks to the depth gauge, the cutter will not be able to go below the required level.
6. Remove the drive lock so that it can move freely up and down the rails.
7. The center of the future hole should be punched on the workpiece.
8. Install the router platform on the workpiece and lower the cutter so that the spike located in its center exactly hits the intended place on the part.
9. Raise the cutter slightly above the workpiece, turn on the machine and, after gaining full speed, slowly begin to immerse the tool in the material until the depth gauge reaches the stop. On this, the drilling operation can be considered completed.

Before drilling on a workpiece, the same operation should be done on some unnecessary piece of wood or chipboard of the same thickness.

It is important that this blind hole has the necessary depth, sufficient to install a furniture hinge cup into it, while there should be no bulges and through holes on the back of the part.

If you need to do through hole, then it is not necessary to set the depth limiter. For a “clean” exit of the cutter on the reverse side of the workpiece, drilling must be carried out in 2 stages. At the first stage, the cup drill is plunged into the workpiece until a small hole from the tenon is formed on its reverse side. Further, the workpiece is turned over, the drill spike is installed in the hole formed, and further drilling is carried out. Thus, the edges of the hole on both sides of the workpiece will turn out to be even and without chips.

Insertion of locks and hinges

For inserting hinges and locks into a wooden door, many special devices have been developed, on which a plunge cutter is installed.

These devices are quite expensive, so the masters try to make them with their own hands. For example, cutting loops with a router without a template is a rather troublesome business. But this process is noticeably simplified if you make a special simple template. How to do this, you can learn from this video.

Inserting locks into interior doors occurs in 2 stages: first, a wide groove is formed for the front lock plate, and then a deep groove is selected for the lock body. To form the seat of the lock body, you must perform the following steps.

Selection of grooves and quarters

To select a groove on the face of the workpiece or its edge (end), you can use the parallel stop, as with the insertion of door locks. But you can also make a special device that facilitates the process if you want to select grooves in a large number of identical wood parts. What does it look like grooving tool shown in the following figure.

This device is easy to set up:

• the unit is installed on the fixture platform;
• the whole structure is superimposed on the workpiece;
• with the help of parallel guides, the straight groove cutter is centered relative to the marking on the workpiece;
• after setting the immersion depth of the tooling (usually several passes are required), the grooves are made.

To select a quarter in a wooden blank, use groove cutter with bearing.

The edge (end) of the workpiece serves as a guide for the tooling. The tool is clamped in the collet of the unit, after which the immersion height is set and a quarter is sampled in the usual way.

Quarter selection is not the only function of this rig. With it, you can select a groove along the edge of the workpiece and make a grooved board. The depth of the groove is adjusted by changing the thrust bearings of different diameters.

For the manufacture of grooved boards in large volumes, you will need to mount the router to the table.

tongue-and-groove and dovetail connection

To create a tenon-groove connection, there are many complex devices. But if the production of wood products is not put on stream, then the tenon-groove connection using a manual milling cutter can be done in a simple way.

How the groove is selected has been discussed in detail above. If you want to make a tenon groove along the entire length or width of the workpiece, then you do not need to round the corners of the tenon.

To make a dovetail spike connection, use a special tool.

Installed on the mill dovetail groove cutter, as well as a copy sleeve with sides for better positioning in the slots of the template.

After clamping the template and the workpiece, milling is carried out according to the general rules.

The tongue and groove connection is also used in the manufacture of lining. Only to make lining, you need to have a set of 2 cutters. One cutter selects a groove on the edge of the part, and the other makes a tenon.

To make a panel, the edge of which is a spike, and cut a groove in the frame of the facade, also use a set of cutters.

Metal work

Milling metal with a manual milling cutter is performed in very rare cases, since this tool is not intended for this purpose. Sometimes it is used for cleaning welds or countersinking holes. It is also allowed to work with this tool for processing products made of aluminum, copper, bronze and brass (for grooving). A carbide groove cutter is installed in the unit, and the part is milled in the usual way.

At the same time, the minimum spindle speed must be set on the machine, and the tooling immersion depth per pass should be 0.5-1 mm.

Sometimes a hand mill is used to engrave patterns on non-ferrous metal planes. In this case, the same templates and fixtures are used as for woodworking, only special engraving cutters.

Figurative carving and crafts

Usually for figured wood carving, grooved fillet and groove straight cutters. Wood carving with a manual milling cutter is as follows:

• install a fillet groove cutter of small diameter in the unit;
• apply a drawing to the workpiece (you can use a stencil);

• circle the applied pattern with a black marker (not alcohol);

• go along the drawn lines with a fillet cutter, setting the immersion depth of 3-4 mm;

• further, you should change the fillet cutter to a straight groove cutter and select the entire inner part of the pattern;

• after milling, the resulting pattern should be polished with sandpaper and varnished.

It is done in the same way volumetric curly carving on wood. Only the cutter selects not a pattern, but the background around it. Fine-tuning the ornament is already done with a drill or a mini-drill (engraver).

Also, with the help of a milling cutter, not only surface woodcarving, but also openwork through (slit) plywood cutting, thin furniture panels, MDF boards. The following figure shows a cutout pattern made by a router on plywood.

Processing of plywood is carried out with conventional milling cutters for wood.

Since plywood contains a certain amount of adhesive, the tooling has to be cleaned of glue adhering to the blades more often than when processing wood.

Using the above working methods, you can cut curly elements for arbors, kitchen facades, country furniture, etc.

Figured woodcarving can decorate various wood crafts. For example, boxes, backgammon, make signs for various establishments.

A milling cutter will also be applied if required. make balusters, decorated with twisted or rectilinear carving. For milling straight grooves, use a special tool that is easy to do with your own hands.

The milling process of the baluster is as follows.

1. A fillet groove cutter with a bearing is installed in the unit.
2. To prevent the workpiece from turning, it is fixed with a screw. It should enter one of the holes in the disk with a baluster attached to it.
3. Next, the tool is lowered so that the thrust bearing is to the left or right of the workpiece and just below its center. But the cutter must be exactly in the center of the part.
4. After positioning the equipment, the unit is turned on and a rounded groove is being developed (the bearing guides the tool, repeating all the shapes of the baluster).
5. In the next step, the router is moved to the side, the locking screw is released, and the disk is rotated so that the lock enters the next hole.
6. After fixing the workpiece, the longitudinal sampling of the groove is again carried out. After each pass of the cutter, it is necessary to rotate the workpiece by 1 step.

The following photo shows balusters with longitudinal grooves.

For the manufacture of twisted balusters more complex adaptation is required.

A twisted pattern is obtained by turning the workpiece while the cutter moves along it. The rotation of the workpiece and the movement of the router on this machine are synchronized.