How to dry a cellar with a candle. Is it possible to dry the cellar with a heater? Drying basements with high humidity. Application of forced ventilation

Most owners of cellars and basements are faced with the problem of excess humidity in these rooms.

Often these phenomena worsen seasonally and have a completely understandable physical nature. And sometimes this is due to errors in the construction of these premises. But, whatever the nature of the occurrence of high humidity, there are also ways to combat it.

Simple ways to dry a cellar

First of all, you need to determine the source of moisture. To do this, in the place of its greatest accumulation on the wall you need to attach a not very large piece polyethylene film, having previously dried the area under it, even with a household hairdryer. After a few days, drops of water will condense on it. If they are under the film, the source of moisture is the wall, which means: either it doesn’t work, or the external waterproofing of your cellar has become unusable, or the level has risen groundwater and we will talk about ways to deal with this situation in the next section. If drops form on the film, most likely the supply and exhaust ventilation is not working well or the insulation is not insulated top floor cellar

It is easy to check the ventilation - check for the presence of draft, and if it is clogged, clean the channels. Cellar structure, incl. its insulation is described in.

These errors are relatively easy to fix. In addition, ventilation can always be made forced by installing in its channels suitable fans, activated by the command of a hygrometer - a device that measures humidity levels. Of course, there are also expensive modern split systems, but not everyone can afford them.

If the mentioned adjustments corrected the situation, good, but if not, more radical measures are needed. How to dry the cellar in the garage in such cases?

Sometimes, if you have condensation forming on the walls and ceiling of the cellar during summer ventilation and drying of an empty cellar (moisture from warm outside air condenses on its cold walls and ceiling), it will be enough to use one of the 3 quick drying methods that will be discussed a little lower. Before that, you need to clean the cellar as much as possible of everything that is left in it from last year and work with wooden racks and shelves.

All wooden equipment in your cellar must be removed from it, physical deposits (if any) removed from the surface of the wood, thoroughly scraped out and left to dry in a well-ventilated place. It is advisable that the wood does not get wet.

After the wood has dried, it would not be superfluous to treat it with an aqueous solution of copper sulfate or any of those sold in construction stores, antiseptic.

The walls and ceiling of the garage cellar can be whitewashed slaked lime, and if there are traces of mold, then before that also treat them with a solution of copper sulfate. The last of the described procedures must be performed after drying the cellar.

Drying a Basement with Candles, a Dutch oven and a dehumidifier

Let's look at it in order.

1. Drying with candles.

The candle is placed in a jar and installed under the pipe exhaust ventilation. The candle flame, slightly heating the air, increases draft, and therefore ventilation.

This is often enough for small cellars and basements to keep them dry. This will take several days and several candles.

2. Drying using a roasting pan or metal stove.

We remove the bottom from an old bucket or similar metal container and place it on any grid with legs - half of an old barbecue grid or something similar will do. We light a fire in a bucket and keep it going until the room is completely dry. It is forbidden similar design use on wooden floors. If you have one of these in your basement, place the roasting pan in a low box filled with sand.

With this drying method, a certain disinfection with smoke is also carried out. It is more effective than the previous one. A small cellar in the garage can be dried in a day.

3. Drying the cellar using an air dehumidifier.

If your basement does not have ventilation, the only way to dry it is by using a dehumidifier.

These devices, passing moist air through themselves, collect moisture from it into a special reservoir. The principle of their operation is clear from the diagram, and they can be used, unlike the first two, not only when the cellar is empty, but when the need arises. The same device answers the question: how to dry a cellar without ventilation, but it is better to do it anyway if such a problem arises periodically.

Also, humidity can rise sharply immediately after mass storage of vegetables in the cellar, due to an excess of it in them and due to the fact that they have a higher temperature than the one established in the room. If the ventilation functions well and the cellar is insulated, this phenomenon will disappear after the vegetables adapt to the temperature of the cellar.

If moisture enters the cellar through the wall

Moisture can also penetrate through the seams. wall material, places where walls meet the floor, ceiling, etc. There may be several reasons, and we mentioned them above. But first of all, do not forget to analyze the possibility of leakage of water supply and drainage communications located near the basement or in it itself. In this case, you cannot do without eliminating the original source of the flood in your basement, but we do not consider this situation in the article.

First of all, you need to find out whether the groundwater level has risen for any reason. This can be signaled by:

• increase in water level in wells near the basement;
• changes in the behavior of plants, and even the inexplicable death of some of them.

If you suspect this, drill a 2-meter well with a hand drill with attachments and see if water appears in it in a couple of days. If this happens, then the right thing to do would be to resolve the issue of a local decrease in groundwater in your area or at least in the area of ​​your cellar.

The diagram shows one of the options for local reduction underground water. The installation of such a drainage system can solve the problem. A device on the site, with drainage into it, can also help. excess water from a local area, or the construction of a full-fledged drainage system for the entire site.

In this case, the correct decision would be to remodel the floor of the cellar (or basement) and install individual drainage in it.

Drainage pipes densely perforated with small-diameter holes, place them in a “coat” of crushed stone of a larger fraction than these holes, and wrap the whole thing with geotextile on the outside.

Although you can do it in a simpler way: install a drainage well in the lower corner of the room with a drainage pump that automatically turns on and drains water away from the cellar.

And better - into a drainage well.

If the reason for moisture entering the basement through the walls is due to a violation of the external waterproofing, then it is best to restore it according to the traditional scheme.

But, before installing a clay castle, you need to apply any effective waterproofing material to the walls: bitumen primer, penetrating waterproofing, etc.

If it is not possible to re-waterproof your cellar from the outside, then you need to do it from the inside. For this:

1. Separate all construction joints between blocks or bricks, floor and wall, ceiling, removing the “weak” mortar as deeply as possible.
2. Prime the recesses with a waterproofing compound such as Penetron.
3. Fill large holes special composition Penecryl type.
4. Moisten surfaces.
5. Cover with 2 layers of Penetron.
6. Perform the same work on the ceiling and floor.

Waterproofing compounds should be applied to a well-moistened surface with a wide brush, first vertically, and the second layer horizontally (or vice versa, but in different directions application), rubbing them well into the base.

A detailed procedure can be seen in the video:

And these and similar compositions work like this:

Is it good to have a basement in a garage?

Actually, it’s not the best option to build a basement, much less a cellar, in the garage. In any case, for the safety of the car - for sure. In any case, the humidity in them will be higher than in the garage itself, which is guaranteed to shorten the life of the car body.

Therefore, the more effective measures to reduce humidity in the basement and cellar under the garage you can take - so much the better.

This includes ventilation, dehumidifiers, and maximum waterproofing of walls and floors, both outside and inside. And the most effective will be, in addition to waterproofing compounds deep penetration, cover these rooms from the inside with a spray-on composition such as liquid rubber.

There are up to a dozen types of it: one- and two-component, application is quite expensive, because special equipment is required, but today there is no better waterproofing.

Dear readers, if you have any questions, please ask them using the form below. We will be glad to communicate with you;)

In most cases, the appearance of dampness in the garage basement is caused by mistakes made during the construction stage. And the most interesting thing: it is almost impossible to take into account all the nuances and provide for every possibility of moisture entering the cellar. And it’s good if there is no groundwater around, and none of the neighbors equip it in the immediate vicinity storm sewer. But a huge number of owners of garages with a basement still have to face a significant problem in the spring and autumn - how to dry the cellar. In our article, we will not only look at the main methods of drying a room, but also provide some tips on how to properly waterproof a basement.

You need to think about preventing the appearance of dampness in the cellar at the construction planning stage. When constructing a basement, under no circumstances should you use porous materials such as expanded clay or foam blocks. It is also not recommended to use any type of brick, since in practice it is very problematic to ensure proper water resistance of this material. The best option is concrete, not only for the bottom of the cellar, but also for all the walls.

It is better to choose concrete as a building material for a garage basement.

The next question that arises when building a garage cellar is which structure to choose - prefabricated or monolithic? Of course, a monolithic basement is less labor-intensive, and its service life is much longer, but if desired, you can also use foundation blocks.

Construction work is best carried out in summer time when water in the garage basement is an extremely rare occurrence. Then it will be possible to avoid the appearance of groundwater in the prepared pit.

How to dry out a basement in a garage

Despite careful choice of location, enhanced waterproofing and other measures to prevent the appearance of dampness in the basement, it is not always possible to take into account every last detail. So, let's look at the main ways to dry a cellar in a garage.

Before you start waterproofing an already built basement in the garage, you need to think about how to dry a damp cellar. It is best to do this in the warm season. First, let’s take everything that is there out of the cellar, that is:

• shelves;
• racks;
• boxes for vegetables.

After this, we thoroughly clean the floor of even the smallest debris. Now the room should dry naturally for two days. Next (especially in the spring-autumn period), you should definitely dry out the basement additionally.

Drying method with broiler

In order for the bucket to maintain the draft necessary for normal combustion, it should be slightly modified by welding the legs and cutting holes in the bottom

One way to quickly dry out a basement requires an old metal bucket. The bucket is placed in the middle of the cellar, a fire is lit in it and maintained until the room is completely dry. Hot air creates forced circulation, and the musty damp air is quickly forced out of the basement. An additional advantage of the method is that the smoke perfectly destroys mold and bacterial spores in the walls, and also evicts unwanted insects for a long time.

How to Properly Dry a Garage Basement Using a Dutch oven

Drying method using a candle

The second method of drying the basement is even simpler than the previous one. All that is needed for it is to extend the ventilation pipe to the floor and place a burning candle under it in metal vessel(for example, in a tall tin can). Now, in order for the initial draft to appear, we light a small piece of paper right in the pipe. All. Further, the necessary draft will be supported by the candle flame. Thus, in 3-4 days, replacing the cinder new candle, you can completely solve the problem of how to dry a basement in a garage.

How to properly dry a garage basement using a candle

Tip: instead of a candle, you can use a tablet of dry fuel.

Only after completely drying every square centimeter of the garage basement can you begin waterproofing work.

Methods for waterproofing a cellar in a garage

Usually, to protect against moisture, special waterproofing additives are added to concrete already at the stage of basement construction, which enhance the protective properties of the material from moisture and groundwater. Let's look at a few more ways to protect the cellar from dampness and humidity.

How to make external drainage

Most reliable way avoid getting the basement wet - drain groundwater from the foundation either into a storm drain or outside the site. True, this method is suitable, both in terms of efficiency and economy, only for detached buildings, and not for parking lots, garage cooperatives and basements big houses.

Advice: the external drainage system is best carried out simultaneously with construction basement garage.

Proper arrangement of external cellar drainage

External drainage technology:

1. It is necessary to dig a trench along the entire perimeter of the basement, 0.4 m deep below the cellar floor level and 0.4 m wide. In this case, every 2 meters, wells are drilled to the sand layer, into which plastic pipes are installed for drainage. To prevent crumbling soil and crushed stone from entering the opening of the drainage pipes, they must be covered with a fine galvanized grid.
2. After this, the bottom of the trench is covered with geotextile (to avoid silting) so that the ends of the material extend onto the walls of the recess, and the trenches themselves are filled with gravel or crushed stone to a height of approximately 0.4 meters (you need to ensure that the upper edge of the backfill layer is slightly higher than the lower edge cellar walls).
3. The crushed stone is wrapped on top with the remains of geoseptic material. The result of all these manipulations will be a horizontal drainage pipe around the entire garage, preventing groundwater from entering its perimeter, as well as its accumulation.
4. Next, we fill the trench with soil in several stages, carefully compacting each layer to prevent the structure from collapsing.

Important: when drilling wells, it is necessary to ensure that they do not go too deep into the sand layer, and also that drainage system didn't hit wastewater from sewer system, since continental sands are an aquifer containing drinking water. If you allow sewage to get in, you and your household will be the first to suffer.

Internal drainage device

If the question often arises of how to quickly dry a large cellar, then it is worth equipping it with a system internal drainage. To do this, interconnected pipes are located along the entire perimeter of the building, into which the water entering the basement flows.

For drainage of a garage cellar on a modern construction market a wide range of specially designed pipes are available various diameters: perforated, corrugated, with stiffeners. Pipes with a diameter of 110 mm are most efficient. Drains must be equipped with special holes located along the entire length of the pipe at an equal distance from each other.

Tip: Internal drainage is best done before the floor is built. Otherwise, it will have to be broken.

Internal drainage technology:

1. A trench is dug along the entire perimeter of the basement to a depth of 0.4 m.
2. The bottom is carefully compacted and geoseptic material is spread on it.
3. The trench is filled to a depth of 0.15 m with gravel or crushed stone.
4. Drains are laid on top of the backfill layer at a slope of 3 mm for each meter of pipe length.
5. Drainage pipes are completely filled with medium-sized gravel (5-15 mm) so that the holes are not clogged with smaller particles and covered with geotextiles.
6. The trench is completely filled with sand and compacted.
7. To collect water from the pipes, a collection well should be installed at the lowest point of the basement. Now you can buy ready-made industrial PVC wells up to 3 m high, which are lightweight and durable. But some people prefer to make their own well from concrete, which significantly increases the amount of work.
8. Installed in the well drainage pump, which turns on automatically when the float located in the well reaches a certain level. When the float is lowered to its initial position, the pump motor is switched off.

Advice: the place where the pumped water will be discharged must be taken care of in advance. To do this, connect a hose to the pump, which is led either outside the site or into local system sewerage.

Interesting: instead of a well, you can use an ordinary two-hundred-liter barrel, but in this case you will need to regularly ventilate the garage basement.

Basement injection protection

This innovative method is one of the most expensive, moreover, it requires certain skills and special equipment, as a result of which such work should be entrusted to professionals, rather than trying to do it on your own. Waterproofing using injections is effective even for objects built from brick, foam block and cinder block.

Injection waterproofing technology

1. Holes with a diameter of 1.5 to 4 mm are drilled along the perimeter of the structure at a distance of 20 to 80 cm from each other, depending on the thickness of the walls, soil density and other influencing factors.
2. Expandable packers are installed in the holes, into which insulating substances are introduced under high pressure using a special pump.

The undoubted advantage of the method is that such waterproofing can be carried out at any time without opening the floors, foundation or removing the cladding. In addition, polymer waterproofing materials are very durable and environmentally friendly materials, and thanks to their reduced viscosity, they are able to fill even the smallest cracks in walls and foundations.

Injection waterproofing work: polymers are injected under pressure into the holes formed around the perimeter

Penetrating waterproofing

Most effective way Waterproofing a garage cellar is a method using penetrating waterproofing.

The principle of penetrating waterproofing is to block pores and capillaries by creating new structural connections

This type of material makes it possible to quickly and efficiently cover not only surfaces in the basement, but also all concrete and even brick surfaces. High efficiency when working with wet objects, it allows you to carry out work from the inside, avoiding the grueling excavation of external walls.

The waterproofing mixture is diluted with ordinary water, and the resulting solution is applied to a pre-moistened surface. The mixture, having entered into a violent reaction with water on the surface of the insulated objects, forms crystals that completely fill the capillaries of concrete or brick.

After the basement is completely dry and waterproofed, you can bring back the shelves, boxes and racks. Before this, they must be thoroughly washed and treated with an antiseptic solution, for example, copper sulfate (today this is one of the cheapest, but highly effective methods of protection against mold).

A musty smell, the formation of mold and fungal growths on the surface of the walls and ceiling of the cellar, condensation moisture in the form of drops and a cloying feeling of dampness - all these are clear signs of insufficient air exchange in the basement. A cellar can be built on a separate plot or under a house, but it is often more convenient to build it in a garage. Despite its structural simplicity, the cellar is still able to compete with the most modern refrigerator. However, a real owner needs to know the secrets not only about how to properly build a basement, but also how to dry the cellar in the garage in order to preserve the quality of the products for longer.

Initially, the design of the basement is determined depending on the proximity of groundwater. It is advisable that they do not reach the bottom of the cellar by about 0.5 m. The groundwater level should be recorded during periods of its maximum value: in spring, during floods, or in autumn, during periods of long rains. Of course, it is better to install the cellar in a high and dry place, which reduces the amount of waterproofing work. However, in general, the most comfortable location for a basement does not meet all the requirements for an effective cellar design, so it is necessary to adjust the construction with various additional measures.

For example, some types of soil, such as clay, sandy loam and loam, tend to swell at low temperatures, thereby destroying the basement foundation. In this case, it is necessary to replace such soils with sandy ones. In addition, a cellar built in clayey soil with a dense texture is constantly exposed to stagnant water accumulating on the back side of the pit.

<внимание>Stagnant water is one of the main causes of dampness in a garage cellar.

To get rid of the accumulation of stagnant water and, accordingly, dampness in the cellar, it is necessary to ensure the removal of atmospheric and melt water using a water drain, ring drainage. And the walls of the cellar must be as strong as possible in order to withstand the hydrostatic pressure of stagnant waters.

If the basement ceiling is not insulated enough, condensation and drips may form on it.

The reason for the increased moisture in the cellar is, of course, not the right technology roofing work and garage blind areas. The problem worsens in the autumn-spring period, when, against the background of rising groundwater and the amount of rain, it is extremely difficult to avoid flooding of the basement. And with the harvest approaching, we urgently have to solve the unpleasant question of how to dry the cellar in the garage quickly, efficiently and for a long time.

Naturally, the issue of sufficient drying of the garage should be decided at the stage construction work garage with a cellar, it’s much easier than taking additional measures to eliminate moisture in a finished building. It is extremely difficult to get rid of excess dampness in wooden structure, which is especially sensitive to moisture, even to the point of destruction.

Secrets of a dry garage cellar

In order to forget for a long time about the task of how to dry the basement in the garage, you should take care in advance of such essential properties of the cellar as:

1. sufficient waterproofing;
2. temperature and humidity conditions;
3. thorough disinfection.

Cellar waterproofing

The moisture resistance of a garage basement is formed by waterproofing it construction materials. Depending on the method of implementation, waterproofing is divided into the following types:

1. external drainage;
2. internal drainage;
3. injection;
4. penetrating

The external drainage waterproofing system for a garage basement is quite simple, economical, but at the same time effective method protecting the cellar from excessive moisture. However this method waterproofing is difficult to carry out in the case of a basement garage big house or a garage cooperative, since the method is based on removing drainage water outside the garage. The external drainage waterproofing system consists of forming a trench around the cellar 50 cm wide and depth below the bottom of the cellar with wells drilled every 2 m (depth not lower than the first sand layer) and inserted into them plastic pipes. The trench is filled with a layer of geotextile, crushed stone and again geotextile, and then carefully compacted. The backfill layers should be located above the cellar floor level. To prevent the pipes from becoming contaminated with soil, they are covered with a metal strainer.

The internal drainage waterproofing system is capable of short time dry out basements large areas. The method is based on the formation of a ring drainage in the middle of the basement structure. The drainage is made of special perforated pipes connected to each other, placed with a slope of 3 mm for each meter of pipe length in a pre-dug trench (50 cm deep). The bottom of the trench is covered with moisture-absorbing geoseptic material, gravel and crushed stone. After laying in the trench, the pipes are backfilled, carefully compacted, with crushed stone, gravel, geotextile, and then sand or earth. Collection drainage water carried out using a special pump for pumping groundwater into a special well, which can be purchased (PVC well) or made of concrete in the form of a drainage hole.

Injection waterproofing is effective, but quite expensive, since it requires special equipment and professional performance. The technology of this waterproofing includes the formation of special holes with a diameter of 2-4 mm at certain distances (20-80 cm), calculated taking into account parameters that affect the humidity of the room (soil density, wall thickness, etc.). Expandable packers are installed into the pits, with the help of which environmentally friendly polymers or other insulators are introduced under high pressure.

<внимание>Polymer materials have sufficient strength and are able to fill all the gaps in the cellar structure, even those made of brick and foam block.

Penetrating waterproofing method is the simplest, fastest and most effective. The principle of protecting the cellar from dampness in in this case is to cover damp walls a special aqueous solution, which crystallizes when interacting with water, densely filling the porous surface of the basement walls.

Temperature and humidity conditions

The temperature and humidity conditions of the garage cellar correlate with temperature and humidity indicators environment, especially soil. Dense soil such as clay is a very good heat conductor. In this case it is necessary to use thermal insulation materials to prevent food from freezing in winter and overheating in warm weather.

<внимание>Sandy loam and sandy soils are poor heat conductors and ideal soil to maintain constant optimal temperature and humidity conditions in the garage cellar.

For long-term preservation of food in the cellar, the temperature must be maintained in the range from +2 to +4 degrees, and relative humidity- 85-95%. If the humidity in the basement is less than 85%, then the vegetables will begin to dry out; if the room humidity is too high, they will rot and mold. Therefore, to control the temperature and humidity indicators, it is useful to have a thermometer and a psychrometer in the cellar.

Of course, to maintain optimal temperature and humidity conditions in the garage basement, sufficient supply and exhaust ventilation is also necessary. The simplest ventilation device is to install supply (under the ceiling) and exhaust (at a height of 50 cm from the floor) pipes in opposite sides of the cellar. It is recommended to insulate the part of the pipe that is located outside the room and cover it with a metal strainer. You can use one ventilation pipe, but you should increase its size to 15x15 cm. natural ventilation the speed of the draft depends mainly on the temperature difference in the cellar and outside.

Sometimes, to reduce moisture, a box of salt or charcoal is placed in the cellar, and to increase moisture, a box of wet sand is placed.

Disinfection

Many people ignore such cellar care as disinfection, which makes a huge mistake; mold and mildew not only create an unaesthetic appearance of the room, but can, in addition to disrupting the temperature and humidity conditions of crop loss, lead to the destruction of structures. Therefore, every year, a month before planting the harvest, the cellar needs to be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected. All internal racks are removed, washed and disinfected with a solution of copper or iron sulfate. They also whitewash the basement walls with lime mixed with copper sulfate or potassium permanganate.

Cellar drying methods

Of course, each cellar has its own individual characteristics and even if all technological methods are followed, conditions of high humidity may arise. The cellar is getting damp and urgent measures need to be taken to ensure that the room is completely dry.

The technology for drying a cellar in a garage includes: preparing the room (removing all items and shelving), through ventilation for several days (with the door open) and then drying.

You can dry the cellar using:

• Warming the cellar walls until completely dry by heating an iron stove.
• A brazier is any metal container in which wood chips are placed and heated until hot. The roaster is then placed in the basement, which immediately warms up, getting rid of damp, humid air, insects and mold.
• A burning candle installed under a ventilation pipe extended to the floor. The candle flame, independently maintaining the draft, will completely dry the cellar in three days.

Thus, good waterproofing, ventilation and disinfection of your garage cellar will provide favorable conditions for storage of various agricultural products (vegetables, fruits), preservation. As a result, the products will not deteriorate for a long time, will not dry out and will not lose their characteristic smell and taste. Well, we know how to make a good one.

Upon completion of technological and production tasks related to the arrangement of the sewer system in apartment building, industrial building, as well as in private households, it is required to test the involved system using the forced flow method. This task used to identify possible defects or improper installation of the entire involved sewerage part, and the test report for internal sewerage and drainage systems will be material evidence of the work on acceptance of the facility.

A visual inspection should be accompanied by inclusion in the test report of internal sewerage and drainage systems according to SNIP, which is currently represented by the current regulations of the “D” series appendix, which corresponds to SP 73.13330.2012 “Internal sanitary systems of a building”, recently a new one has been applied updated working edition according to SNiP 3.05.01-85.

For perfect use window technologies Not least important are the metal tides on the windows, which are the most important detail decorating window groups for the facade of a building. The main thing and, perhaps, one of the leading values ​​of metal flashings on external windows is protection from moisture, prevention of exposure to precipitation and other negative factors that are typical for natural phenomena. The ingress of moisture without the presence of ebb tides leads to rapid destruction of the structural elements of the building, reducing the operational characteristics of the property as a whole.

Additionally, a metal cast with a polymer coating plays not only protective function, but also original decorative characteristics, giving high aesthetics to the façade of the building as a whole. Installation is carried out both at the stage of completion of construction and during the construction process. finishing works For window openings or for the façade of a property. Priority and rational option is the installation of a metal brown casting with a diameter of 5 cm before the completion of the finishing process of the building. In this situation, installation will be less expensive and allows for timely detection of defects. The second option is also common, but it requires extreme care, and in some cases it is necessary to invest additionally cash in order to achieve a high design solution.

Almost any experienced builder and experts will tell you that the Grand Line drainage system is the embodiment of unsurpassed quality and operational reliability. If we look at the installation instructions drainage system Grand Line, please note that ready-made solutions are of high European quality. The main technical components and assemblies are made of hot-rolled galvanized roofing steel, which has a double-sided polymer coating based on polyurethane. The modern Grand Line drainage system is not subject to corrosion, has a sufficient service life, and is not influenced by external factors, including the negative effects of ultraviolet radiation, aggressive materials of a chemical nature that can get into melt or rain water.

The Grand Line drainage system brand was first released in 2005, and since that time the products have been repeatedly modernized and improved, as a result of which it was possible to design a high-quality drainage system for a residential building or industrial building at the factory. It should also be noted that the composition of the Grand Line drainage system is being improved every year, and the main materials used are high-quality polyvinyl chloride, improved galvanized steel, modern materials based on plasticizers and stabilizers, as well as imported plasticizers. All these factors allow the popular Grand Line drains to be used in any climatic zone peace.

A damp cellar is the most common problem in country houses. The reasons for the appearance of excess dampness in such a room are very prosaic and lie in the poor quality of its waterproofing. Also, in the absence of air exchange (ventilation), due to the storage of a large volume of fruits and vegetables in a limited area, excess moisture may form, which will subsequently condense on all enclosing structures.

Of course, storing vegetables and fruits in such a cellar is extremely unjustified, because being in constant moisture, the products will quickly become unusable and spoil in less than a month. Based on this, our review today will examine the question of how to dry the cellar and perform this procedure most effectively.

Step one. Getting rid of the causes of dampness

You don’t need to be an expert to understand the obvious - if the causes of dampness are not eliminated, then drying the cellar will become an absolutely pointless exercise. Therefore, let's look at the main actions that can be used to prevent moisture from penetrating into the warehouse.

Waterproofing walls. Allows you to minimize the penetration of moisture into the room from the outside. For these purposes, you can use external waterproofing based on bitumen (applied in liquid form) or fix sheet (roll) material.

Ceiling vapor barrier. Will reduce the likelihood of moisture entering the basement from the room above.

Installation of a drainage system. This is relevant if the burial structure is located on an inclined surface. As drainage, you can use a pipe that is buried in the ground from the side of the hill. Through it, flowing streams of water can be diverted to the side (for example, after rain or snow).

Floor revision. Allows you to minimize the penetration of moisture from the soil into the room (especially in cellars with an earthen floor). For these purposes, the floor plane should be leveled, compacted well and simply covered with a layer of polyethylene or roofing felt. However, a more justified option would be to make a high-quality concrete floor with appropriate waterproofing.

Cellar ventilation. Allows for continuous air exchange in the room and removes excess moisture outside along with the air. For these purposes, you can use pipes (about 100 mm in diameter), which are mounted in opposite corners of the structure and installed in such a way that the end of the supply pipe is located at a height of 10 - 15 cm from the floor. And the end of the exhaust pipe is located at a distance of 10 - 15 cm from the ceiling. 15 cm. Whereas the mating parts of the pipelines must be led out into the street. In addition, it is desirable to comply with the following conditions:

• To avoid precipitation, it is advisable to install protective umbrellas made of tin on the pipes from the street side, and to provide additional draft, it is advisable to install a deflector on the exhaust pipe.
• The height of the exhaust pipe should be higher than the supply pipe.
• To enhance draft, the exhaust pipe can be painted dark (the temperature difference will cause additional air movement).
• If it is necessary to construct branches, the angle of inclination of such a channel should be at least 60 degrees, and its length should not be more than a meter.

Step two. Preparing the cellar for drying

Once the causes of excess moisture have been identified and eliminated, you can begin preparatory procedures for drying the cellar. For these purposes, it is first necessary to remove all food from the premises, and also remove structural elements for storing them (boxes, shelves, etc.). Next, you should make sure that the equipment is suitable for further use. And if wooden crafts If vegetables and fruits are stored without visible damage in the form of rot, they are simply laid out on the street to dry. If the listed defects occur, then it is advisable to treat the problem areas with a 5% solution of copper sulfate or an alternative antiseptic.

The next stage of the preparation process is whitewashing the cellar with lime mortar, which protects the structure from bacteria and makes it possible to additionally collect moisture from the air. Produced this event in the following order:

1. A thick lime solution is prepared in a container (usually a bucket), which contains lime, water and 5 percent copper sulfate.
2. Using individual means protection and paint cap spray all interior walls and careful painting of corners. Moreover, this must be done with vigorous movements, ensuring high-quality adhesion of the whitewash to the base. As a result of this spraying, all walls, corners and ceilings should be covered with a thick layer of lime mortar.
3. After the whitewash has dried, the above procedure is repeated, and the result of these actions is the presence of a porous limestone layer over the entire area of ​​the fence structures.

Direct drying of the cellar should be started only after the lime mortar has dried.

Step three. How to dry out a damp basement

Direct removal of moisture from the cellar can be achieved in several ways.

A candle will help dry the cellar

If the cellar is located at some distance from the main buildings (there is no electricity), then it can be dried using an ordinary candle. To do this, first, a segment of a similar pipe is temporarily added to the exhaust pipe (located under the ceiling) with the condition that its end does not reach the floor by 5 - 10 cm. Next, a lit candle is installed under this pipe on a non-flammable stand, which, by warming up the air, ensures good its circulation (warm currents tend upward). After the candle burns out, you should install a new one and thus achieve high-quality removal of moisture from the vegetable storage. Sometimes, in order to get the movement of air masses, the energy of a candle is not enough, and then at the initial moment you can bring lit paper or dry alcohol under the pipe. And after that, use a candle.

The disadvantage of this drying method is its inertia. Indeed, in order to dry a small cellar with the help of candles, it is sometimes necessary to spend 3–4 days. In addition, performing this work in hot weather you can get the opposite effect and moisture will rush into the room along with the heated air (through the supply pipe). In this case, work should be stopped and started again only after the ambient temperature has dropped.

After drying, the grown structure should be dismantled.

High-speed drying of the cellar

Can be done using a fryer. Moreover, if necessary, this attribute can be made independently from an old bucket and used whenever there is a need to dry the basement. To do this, you need to make a perforation in an old bucket using a chisel or an ax.

In this case, the work algorithm does not imply execution additional work, and is implemented in the following sequence:

1. All openings and openings connecting the cellar with the external environment are opened;
2. The fryer is pre-ignited using small wood chips;
3. Large pieces of wood or barbecue coals are added to the brazier and a good heat is maintained;
4. Using a metal hook and rope, the brazier is lowered to the level of the bottom of the cellar;
5. The lid (door) of the cellar is closed and opened every 15 - 20 minutes to allow oxygen in;
6. After the coals burn out, the brazier is removed from the cellar using a rope, and the hatch is closed;

During the heating process, hot air will rush upward and displace the entire volume of damp air out. In addition, the smoke spreading inside the cellar can also perform an antiseptic function.

When drying the cellar using this method, you should be very careful, because in addition to the high temperature, excess carbon monoxide can accumulate inside the room. Therefore, experts recommend drying from above (without going down into the basement), lowering the heated roaster to the bottom of the cellar using a hook and rope. You should enter such a cellar no earlier than three days later; this time will be enough for the carbon monoxide, and the acrid smoke permeated all the nooks and crannies of the vegetable storehouse and ensured its high-quality disinfection.

Drying the cellar using a dehumidifier

Although it requires more financial investments(price household dehumidifier about 30 - 50 dollars) is the most effective way to deal with excess moisture. This is due to the fact that during operation, these devices move large volumes of air through themselves and extract water from it. This liquid is collected in a special tank and all the property owner needs to do is empty the pan as it fills.

Alternative drying methods

Sometimes you can dry the cellar using improvised materials that are highly hygroscopic. Old newspapers, carton boxes, sawdust– this is not a complete list of such positions. The drying process itself in this case boils down to the fact that dry hygroscopic materials are evenly distributed over the area of ​​the building, and after they are saturated with moisture, they are removed and replaced with dry ones. After 3–4 such cycles you can achieve partial removal moisture from the air.