How to attach a board to a square pipe. How to attach corrugated sheets: advice from builders. Installation of metal supports

Construction is a complex process that requires a lot of knowledge and skills. And if a person is faced with the task of attaching a wooden beam to metal, then for this it is important to find out the necessary information. Because this work process is extremely specific and requires at least minimal skill, and even better if the work is done not alone, but with four hands.

Where to start and what to do

First, you should decide on the possible thickness of the metal itself, and select the necessary tools based on its size. It is important to choose high-quality and durable screws, the thickness of which will directly depend on the type of metal sheet. Everything should be as harmonious and correctly selected as possible. The size of the beam in this case does not play too big a role. In order to attach a beam to metal, in a metal sheet or in any other form, you need to drill the necessary hole that will fit the beam. And after that, install the tree to the required height or correct position and then begin installing the screws. Regarding screws, you should not spare them, because in this process they are a guarantee of the reliability and strength of the entire structure. If you suddenly lose If you are trying to install wood into slate together with metal, for example, then the screws should be replaced with self-tapping screws of the greatest length and volume. Since the work required is quite painstaking, and the timber will have to be held while screwing in the screws, it is worth using the services of some assistant. Because it is almost impossible to cope with this task alone. With four hands everything will go much faster and with a full guarantee of quality.

Is it worth preparing the tree?

If installing wood into metal is necessary for an outdoor structure, then the wood must be prepared and lubricated with a special solution to ensure that the wood is dry and not exposed to moisture. This way you can ensure that the structure lasts a long time and reliably, and pleases you with its beautiful appearance. The type of wood when working with metal does not have special knowledge; the main thing is to choose the ideal option according to size and purpose of use.

A house or plot without a fence is like a general without an army: it looks completely undignified. In addition, the fence serves as protection from stray animals and partly from unwanted guests of the human race. Today there are many materials for creating a fencing structure - brick, concrete and metal products, mesh, but wood is still in great demand. Previously, supports made of the same material were used for wooden fences; today, a wooden fence is installed on metal poles.

Features of wooden fences

Wood is always in demand because it has a lot of undeniable advantages:

• Naturalness.
• Decorative.
• Aesthetics.
• Unique color and texture.
• Low cost compared to fencing made from other materials.
• Excellent compatibility with the architectural style of any building.
• Ease of construction.
• Variety of options.

This list can be continued for a very long time. Of course, like any other material, wood also has disadvantages, namely its relative fragility. But this problem is currently being solved. There are many protective and antiseptic agents for wood products, the use of which will significantly extend the life of the fence.

Properties of metal products

The advantages of metal support products include:

• Simplicity of installation work.
• Reliability and durability of the design.
• Strength.
• Resistance against static and dynamic loads.
• Possibility to use any fixation method.

The disadvantages of metal piles include the following: if a fence is used, the price will increase significantly, but if you consider that the use of metal supports will significantly extend the life of the fence, then such a disadvantage is not such.

Types of pipe sections

Metal poles are available in different sections:

• Square. Such products are easy to install in sections and are characterized by reliable connections. Parameters: height - 2.5-4.0 m, side dimensions - 6-10 cm, wall thickness - 0.2-0.4 cm.
• Round. If a metal pipe is used with a round cross-section, the price of the supports will be slightly lower, since they are cheaper than analogues of other types. Also, the use of products with a round cross-section makes it possible to select products of the desired thickness and diameter. Parameters: wall thickness - 2.5-3.5 mm, diameter - 5.7-10.8 cm, height - from 2.5 to 4.0 m.
• Rectangular. The only difference between these products and the square section is their shape, so all the characteristics are similar.

Material protection

In order for it to last for decades, it is necessary to protect not only the base material, but also the metal fencing elements. To do this, you need to cover the pillars with special paint. This will protect the metal from corrosion and mechanical damage. To prevent moisture from precipitation from getting inside the pipes, metal caps can be placed on the upper end.

The use of anti-corrosion technologies will help preserve the original quality of the material and its original appearance for a long time.

Site marking

Before you begin making the fence, you need to make markings. To do this, first, where you plan to make a wooden fence on metal posts, you need to remove bushes, trees, and other objects that may interfere. If necessary, you need to level the soil surface. Only now the markings are being made. You need to do the following:

• Drive in pegs at the extreme points of the future fence.
• Stretch a string between them.
• Mark the places where fence supports will be installed. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that they are located strictly on the same line and at a distance of no more than 2.5-3 m. Otherwise, over time, the fence will begin to sag and lose its proper appearance.

Features of fastening support products in the soil

There are several ways to fix metal pipes in the soil, which allows you to choose the most suitable option.

If you are building a wooden fence on metal posts with your own hands, the cheapest option is to drive the pipes into the ground. To do this, a guide is installed inside these elements. To do the job, two people are needed: one hammers, and the other scrupulously controls the verticality of the support. Alternatively, you can not hammer the pipes, but dig them in, having previously prepared a well with a drill, then install the pipe and compact the earth well.

The following installation options are more labor-intensive, but also more reliable:

• Concreting
• Mounting on a concrete plinth.
• Use of screw piles. For complex ones, this is an excellent solution to many installation problems.

Installation of supports

What’s noteworthy is that the rules listed below are suitable for installing supports made of different materials:

• It is necessary to deepen the supports by at least 1/4 of the entire product. This will ensure their reliable fixation in the soil. After this, so that the pillars do not become loose over time, you can first fill around them using crushed stone or brick chips, and then concrete them. Further work can be continued only after the concrete has hardened.
• They begin work by installing the outermost corner piles, carefully aligning them in height. Subsequent pillars are installed at the same level as the previous one. To avoid any undesirable changes, you can, to maintain the height indicator, dig in slats instead of the outer pillars, stretch string between them and then install the remaining supports, focusing on the desired height mark.

• How the posts should be installed - above the future fence, below or level - depends on the choice of the owner himself. But according to the recommendations of experts, a wooden fence on metal posts should be installed so that the supports rise several centimeters above the picket fence.
• To prevent the wind from twisting the fence on rocky, sandy and non-heaving soils, it is necessary to bury the supports no less than half the height of the fence.
• Widening the bottom end of the post will increase its strength and durability. The welded cross will serve as such an extension.
• After all the pillars are installed, you can make small cones from the concrete solution at their base to drain water.

Installation of picket fence

When all the supports are installed, you can weld fasteners to them, on which the transverse bars - purlins - will then be fixed. Alternatively, you can weld the fastening first and only then install the posts. But then you also need to make sure that all the fasteners are on the same level and create a single line; this is the only way to attach the purlins without any problems.

Depending on what material the cross beams are made of - wood or a metal profile - the choice of fasteners also depends. If a wooden fence is fastened to metal posts using a metal profile, then it itself can be welded to the fastening, and wood products are fixed using bolts or self-tapping screws. If the cross beams are made of wood, then they are fixed to the fastening with bolts, but the picket fence is fastened with ordinary nails. The main thing is to ensure that there are no distortions or other violations. This can be done using a level, and the height can be checked using the same stretched string.

The picket fence can be mounted either tightly or with a small (or large) gap according to the chosen design. How to decorate the top of the fence? It can be anything - horizontal, at an angle, wavy. In this case, the second and third options are preferable, since due to the convex surface of the picket fence, moisture will not accumulate on its surface, as a result, the fence will serve for a much longer period of time.

All that remains is to make and install the wicket and gate. They can be made from wood, corrugated sheets, pipes, forging, since a wooden fence on metal posts goes well with any of them. The cost of the entire structure will depend on the choice of not only the material of the gate and wicket, but also all elements of the structure.

Under reliable protection

In order for wooden structures and outdoor structures to maintain their stability for a long time, it is necessary to pay special attention to the structural protection of wooden and metal parts.

Rain and wind won't matter!

As a rule, metal rusting and wood rotting occur unnoticed. Both processes proceed slowly and make themselves felt only when the roof over the porch threatens to fall on the owners’ heads. Moreover, rotten wood and rusted metal parts over time can become a threat to the stability of the entire building.

Any anti-corrosion protection is designed to protect the metal from exposure to moisture and oxygen. As a rule, this can be achieved by applying special coatings to steel parts. Some of them, such as chromium, enter into a chemical reaction with steel, others form a film on the surface of the metal, including a special powder.

When working with wood, in addition to weatherproofing, the best remedy for rot is structural protection. It basically eliminates the contact of the tree with rainwater and moisture from the soil.

Screws, as a rule, are galvanized or passivated - the latter have a characteristic yellow or dark blue color.

For dark types of wood, blackened screws can also be used, but their anti-corrosion protection is weaker.

Stainless steel screws are the best choice when constructing structures that will be located outdoors.

Formatted screws(1) are used primarily for dry finishing of premises. If, when working with drywall, you use galvanized screws(2), then over time they will attract moisture and become visible through the paint layer. But with the blacks, phosphated screws this won't happen. Chrome/passivated screws(3) can be recognized by its yellowish color. They offer some protection against corrosion, but should not be exposed to constant rain. Stainless steel screws and bolts(4) – twice as expensive, but guaranteed not to corrode.

The phrase “high-quality steel” does not say anything about the resistance of steel angles or other fasteners to corrosion. Only through special processing or the addition of other metals does steel become corrosion-resistant. The four most common methods for protecting steel from rust and weathering are briefly described below.

The degree of anti-corrosion protection that each of these methods provides is different, which also affects the price of products processed by one or another method. High-quality stainless steel fasteners are the most expensive, but they certainly won’t have any problems with corrosion.

The most budget option is parts made of galvanized steel. But if you want to prevent these parts from rusting, make sure that their coating remains intact. The same applies to powder coated products. Chrome plating is somewhat more resistant to corrosion, but its yellowish color does not always suit the design.

1. Chrome plated

When chrome plating, pre-galvanized steel parts are dipped in chromic acid, as a result of which a chrome film is formed on the products. It gives very good protection against corrosion to screws and other fasteners, which lasts, as after galvanizing, for approximately 40 years. Just like bronze fasteners, chrome-plated products in color match well with wood used outdoors.

2. Galvanized

When galvanizing, steel acquires a protective layer of zinc. During hot-dip galvanizing, parts are immersed in a bath of zinc heated to +450°C. When galvanizing, zinc is applied to the part

in an electrolyte bath. Fasteners treated in this way retain their anti-corrosion properties for up to 40 years. True, salty air reduces this period to 25 years.

3. Stainless steel

High-quality stainless steel refers to types of steel that, due to the addition of chromium, nickel, molybdenum or titanium, become completely resistant to corrosion under normal atmospheric influences. At the same time, products with smooth surfaces are even more corrosion-resistant than rough ones, which is why some manufacturers subject their fasteners to special grinding. However, it is wrong to assume that products

made of stainless steel are not subject to corrosion at all. Even this type of high-alloy steel is susceptible to two types of corrosion: crevice and pitting. To maintain a decent appearance of stainless steel, regular washing of metal products with warm water and a surfactant is required.

4. Powder coated

Before applying the powder-varnish coating, the products are galvanized. The powder, then applied to the product, is melted in an oven at temperatures above +200°C. After cooling, a durable anti-corrosion coating is formed on the product. In order for the metal to retain its anti-corrosion properties for a long time, the coating must not be damaged.

This way the supports will last a long time!

Drive-in bases: they do not require concrete

When erecting wooden structures that will have to be located in the open air, it is very important that the wood does not have direct contact with the ground and therefore does not absorb moisture. Hot-dip galvanized pier bases are the easiest and most inexpensive means of installing piers stably and keeping them dry. On such supports you can install a lightweight structure made of wood or using frame technology.

When hammering the bases into the ground, special tools should be used: a plastic mallet and a plastic plug inserted inside the cartridge - this is where the blows should be struck. If you hit the metal directly with an ordinary hammer, you can damage the upper part of the product.

For optimal protection against moisture, the lower end of the support should be treated with a protective glaze. The holes drilled for fastening must also be impregnated with an antiseptic. The protective coating must be completely dry before installation can begin.

Here are two types of anchors for wood poles installed on a concrete foundation and protected from moisture. The H-shaped anchor is suitable for supports of various sizes. The lower third of the anchor is filled with concrete. Those who find anchoring with a classic U-shaped anchor too noticeable can install the supports with virtually invisible anchors with a support shoe. A notch is made in the middle of the support, holes for fastening bolts are marked in the support, the support is put on the central panel of the anchor and secured with bolts. Then the support is concreted.

Supports buried in the ground sooner or later rot. Before the support collapses, its rotten part should be replaced. To do this, the support needs to be lightly dug up, cut down, and the lower part removed from the ground. The resulting gap between the support and the ground can be filled by installing a metal anchor on a concrete foundation. The lower part of the support should be replaced with a block of suitable size, securing it on both sides with two bars. A concreted wide H-shaped anchor will provide the support with the necessary stability; it is designed for a rack with a thickness of 70-140 mm.

PROTECTION FOR SUPPORTS AND TERRACES

Caps

To prevent rainwater from damaging the tree, special caps are placed on top of the support, the top is filed at an angle or rounded.

This will make your floors last longer.

Structural protection of wood is especially important when installing floors on outdoor terraces.

It will help extend the life of the floorboards. Firstly, the floor of the terrace must be arranged so that it has a slight slope in one direction - this way the water will drain from the terrace by itself.

We illustrated two other simple but effective techniques with drawings.

Correct: the head of the screw remained on the surface of the board. Stainless steel self-tapping screws can break when screwed into hard wood, so you should always pre-drill holes with a slightly smaller diameter than the diameter of the self-tapping screw.

Bad: the head of the screw protrudes above the board or is dented. In the first case, you can get injured by catching on a self-tapping screw. In the second, a depression forms around the self-tapping screw and water collects.

A simple pommel made of galvanized steel can be bought for 140 rubles. in a construction supermarket.

The pommel, made of high-quality steel and decorated with a ball, costs almost 400 rubles.

Plastic tops are intended for children's furniture or playground structures. They protect the tree from rotting and children from injury. Price: 80 rub.

The upper part of the support without a top needs to be either rounded or cut at an angle so that rainwater drains quickly. In this case, the tree must be covered with a moisture-proof solution.

You can purchase a pole top made of wood.

The corrugated sheeting must be secured with self-tapping screws (to metal surfaces or a wooden frame) and rivets (sheet to sheet).

To install a profiled sheet, in most cases a frame is made. The structure is made from a metal profiled pipe (square, rectangle), wooden slats, a plasterboard profile, and an ordinary corner. Sometimes they make wall cladding by mounting the sheets directly to the brick or stone.

How and with what in each specific case to fix the corrugated sheet?

Self-tapping screws (self-tapping) for metal with a metal washer and rubber seal

A self-tapping screw (commonly a self-tapping screw) is made in the form of a rod with a tip resembling a drill, a triangular thread and a head for a wrench or a screwdriver. In addition to screws with a drill tip, screws with a sharp tip are produced. To fasten the corrugated sheet, complete with a screw, use a press washer and a rubber sealing gasket.

We apply:

• for attaching corrugated sheets to metal surfaces;
• with steel thickness up to 12.5 mm;
• without pre-drilling holes;
• for installation, for cladding facades, gables, making gates, wickets, etc.

We do not use:

• for fastening sheets to tool and high-carbon steels;
• for binding metal profiled sheets together;
• for fastening to wooden structures;
• for fastening to metal less than 1 mm thick.

How do we determine quality?

When purchasing, we require a quality certificate that reflects the characteristics according to the DIN standard, including:

For fastening to a frame with a thickness of 2.32 mm, we use products for drill No. 1, with a diameter of 4.8 mm, pitch 2.12. For metal 5.5 mm drill No. 3, 8.5 mm - No. 4, 12.5 mm - No. 5. Thread pitch 1.8. Self-tapping screws of large diameters must be coated with zinc with a thickness of at least 12 microns.

We select the length of the self-tapping screws depending on the purpose. To attach the profiled sheet to the lower wave, choose a size larger than the materials being joined by 3mm. When screwed into the upper wave, for example, to attach skates, the length increases by the height of the profile.

The industry produces 3 types of self-tapping screws according to the shape of the head:

• hexagonal;
• cruciform;
• anti-vandal.

For normal installation, it is easier to work with a hexagonal head shape. We use anti-vandal screws for fences and cladding, the removal of which from the outside will provide free access to the room or territory. Installation of products is done with a special tool.

Important nuances when attaching corrugated sheets with self-tapping screws:

1. We tighten the screws with a washer and a rubber gasket strictly perpendicular to the plane of the sheet.
2. According to the characteristics, the screws are suggested to be screwed in at 2500 rpm, but it is difficult to calculate the force by touch. Tighten the screws so as not to squeeze the rubber washer. A flattened seal will crack over time and will not create a tight seal.
3. We do not use rubber seals where monolithic fastening is required.
4. In places where unauthorized access to fasteners is possible, we use anti-vandal screws or use self-tapping screws with a notch that prevents arbitrary unscrewing.

How to attach profiled sheets to a wooden frame?

For roofs mounted on wooden sheathing, there is no alternative to traditional metal screws. Select screws with the largest thread pitch. The larger this parameter, the more reliable the mount.

Vertically located profiled sheets that do not require a hermetic fastening, in order to save money, are fastened with galvanized self-tapping screws with a monolithic press washer. In everyday life it is an ordinary self-tapping screw with a wide head. For screwing, a Phillips screwdriver is inserted into the screwdriver.

If the sheathing is made of DVL, chipboard, etc., we use screws with double-threaded threads. For the roof, we make a set of washers and cuffs ourselves, selecting the diameter of the screw.

1. Use standard wood screws, including those intended for fastening plasterboard sheets. This fastener has a countersunk head and, when screwed in, will damage the surface of the corrugated sheet.
2. Use screws with a drill tip. Wood does not require drilling, a sharp self-tapping screw is screwed in more securely, and the passage through corrugated sheets makes it acceptable for a large amount of work.

Is it possible to attach corrugated sheeting to shell rock (limestone, brick)?

We mount the sheets directly to the wall made of stone or brick using dowels and anchors. To install, pre-drill holes in the metal. We select fastener heads with a monolithic wide washer. The shape of a plastic insert with a shimmer that acts as a seal. We make the hole in the corrugated sheet 0.5 mm larger than the diameter of the insert.

1. For quick installation, use dowels with impact screws. They differ from traditional screws and screws in the shape of the thread. Disadvantage: if struck, the surface of the sheet can be damaged.
2. Do not attach sheets to surfaces with protrusions or uneven surfaces.

How to connect sheets of profiled metal to each other?

The standard thickness of profiled iron is 0.4 mm. It is unreliable to connect two sheets using self-tapping screws, for example at an overlap, since the fastening is fragile and depends on the thread pitch.

To solve the problem we use rivets. The fastener consists of two parts, which are made of aluminum. Rivets are installed in pre-prepared holes and do not require access to the reverse side. For installation we use a rivet device. In places where hidden installation of rivets is required, we use a hole punch (special pliers holders that pierce the corrugated sheet from the end of the wave).

Rivets can be used as fasteners for installing roofing, fence cladding, etc. The disadvantage is labor intensity. A through hole must be drilled for each rivet.

Other methods of installing corrugated sheets

Screw and bolt connection

The corrugated sheet is attached to metal surfaces using screws, for example, when used as casings on machines, for fastening to special steels. We drill holes in the sheet and the base on which installation is taking place, cut the threads and install.

A bolted connection is used in a similar way, but fastening requires drilling through holes both in the sheet and in the material to which the installation is taking place. Bolts are used to connect corrugated sheets to metal and wooden frames, preventing vandalism and unauthorized access.

Adhesive base

For internal cladding of smooth walls, corrugated sheets can be installed with glue. As a binding element, use metal putty mixed with PVA glue. The sheets are pressed to the base and kept until the adhesive composition is plasticized. In this embodiment, corrugated sheeting does not perform load-bearing functions, but serves for decorative purposes.
We have you and a set of screws for it.

Wooden beams are a practical building material. Low price, low heat loss, light weight and ease of installation of a house made of timber make this material very popular. However, securing the beam to the foundation is not so easy, because wood cannot be glued to concrete or welded to metal. In this article we will talk about how timber is attached to various foundations, what they pay attention to and what mistakes are made.

Types of foundations for a timber house

Waterproofing

The bottom beam, as well as the wooden grillage, must be properly protected from water and dampness, but it is not always possible to use creosote or other equally effective (and most often unpleasant-smelling) substances. If it is not possible to treat the grillage or lower beam with heavy fractions of oils, then it is necessary to use less effective substances, and at least 2 layers of roofing material must be laid between the foundation or iron/concrete grillage and the beam. This is material that falls out due to temperature changes. After all, in the morning the air temperature rises, but the temperature of the foundation or grillage remains unchanged. If you use a wooden grillage, then waterproofing must be laid both under and above it. This will protect the wall from dampness and prevent mold and rot.

Which mounting method is better?

When choosing a mounting method, consider the following factors:

• timber moisture;
• climatic conditions;
• seismic activity;
• the strength of the most frequent winds.

To attach damp (over 16%) timber to a wooden grillage, you must use only shrinkage compensators. All other fastening methods are ineffective.

After all, timber with high and especially natural humidity gives very strong shrinkage, so ordinary anchor bolts will not be able to provide high-quality fixation. To fasten timber with high or natural humidity to a wooden grillage, it is necessary to use an analogue of a shrinkage compensator, only made not from a screw, but from an anchor bolt. The same method can be used when installing timber on threaded rods. Instead of a nut and washer, you need to use a nut, two washers and a spring. The same fastening method should be used in those regions where there are heavy and long rains in spring and autumn.

In regions with high seismic activity, it is necessary to use a bottom beam with a moisture content of no higher than 12%, treat it with the most effective waterproofing and install it on the most rigid fastening (regular and anchor bolts). This will ensure sufficient strength of the entire structure. The same approach must be applied in those regions where wind speeds often exceed 20 meters per second. Neglecting rigid fastening in seismically active or windy regions will lead to the fact that the fastening will become loose under the influence of external factors and the house will begin to sway. Neglecting shrinkage compensators when working with timber of natural and high humidity, as well as in regions with frequent and heavy seasonal rains, will lead to the appearance of gaps between the flashing crown and the foundation or grillage.