How to properly grow strawberries from seeds. Proper planting of strawberries with seeds: secrets of successful germination and seedling care. Sowing in the snow

Garden strawberries, which we usually call strawberries is one of the most popular berries, which is not only eaten fresh, but also made into jams, jams, drinks and even liqueurs. Therefore, many gardeners are interested in when to sow strawberry seeds in order to get a small harvest of berries this year. We will tell you when to sow strawberry seeds for seedlings in 2019, how to grow strawberry seedlings at home, as well as when and how to plant strawberry seedlings in open ground.

When to sow strawberries for seedlings in 2019

Sowing strawberry seeds for seedlings in 2019 can be done on the following days:

• in January try to sow strawberry seeds for seedlings on the 15th or 17th, although the entire range from the 7th to the 20th is suitable. January 2 and 31 are unfavorable for sowing;
• February: the best days for sowing strawberries are the 6th and 7th, but sowing is also possible on the 9th, 11th, 12th, and it is better not to sow strawberry seeds on February 15, 16, 17;
• March: The most favorable days for sowing will be March 8, 14 and 15. Unfavorable days for sowing strawberries are March 2, 16, 17, 18, and 31.

Soil for strawberry seedlings

The soil for growing strawberry seedlings needs light, loose, not very fertile, for example, a mixture of garden soil with sand or ready-made soils Universal, Begonia or For violets. Well-proven soils for strawberries have the following composition:

• vermicompost, non-acidic peat and coarse sand in a ratio of 1:3:1;
• peat, turf soil and sand in a ratio of 1:1:2.

Before sowing, the soil mixture must be disinfected using any of the following methods:

• spill with a strong solution of potassium permanganate;
• steam in a water bath;
• heat for 5 minutes in the microwave;
• fry for half an hour in the oven at 150 ºC.

After treatment, the soil is placed in a warm place for 2-3 weeks.

Preparing strawberry seeds for sowing

Growing strawberry seedlings must begin with preparing the seed. If you bought seeds, carefully read the instructions - some manufacturers sell material that is ready for sowing. Personally collected seeds should be placed for 30 minutes in a half percent solution of potassium permanganate, then rinsed in clean water. Then the seeds are laid out on a damp cloth, covered with another damp cloth, rolled into a roll, placed in a perforated plastic bag or in a box with holes for air exchange in the lid and kept warm for two days, and then stratified in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator for two weeks. Check the condition of the seeds from time to time and moisten the wipes.

As soon as the seeds swell, they are ready for sowing, but do not miss the moment: you must not allow small sprouts to appear on the seeds - they easily break off, and nothing will grow from such seeds.

Growing strawberry seedlings from seeds

As a container for growing strawberry seedlings, it is better to use not very deep transparent containers, for example, plastic food boxes in which drainage holes must be made.

Treat the container with a strong solution of potassium permanganate, Place a layer of drainage material in it, then damp soil, compact it, place the seeds on the surface of the soil using a damp toothpick at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other, cover the container with a transparent lid or plastic wrap and place in a warm, bright place, protecting from direct sunlight. sun. The window sills of western and eastern windows are most suitable for germinating strawberry seeds.

There is a way in which strawberry seedlings are planted simultaneously with stratification seeding material: heat-swollen seeds are not placed in the refrigerator, but are laid out in the manner already described on the surface of dry soil. A layer of snow about 2 cm thick is placed on top of them, the container is covered with a lid or film and kept on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. The snow will gradually melt and draw seeds into the soil with it - this is exactly how everything happens in natural conditions. After two weeks, the lidded container is moved to the windowsill.

Planting strawberry seedlings in peat tablets

Strawberry seedlings from seeds develop well in peat tablets.

• Firstly, The tablets contain all the macro- and microelements necessary for seedlings.
• Secondly, you don’t have to bother with preparing the soil and sterilizing it.
• Third, Growing seedlings in tablets allows you to avoid the picking procedure, which is traumatic to the roots of seedlings - if necessary, they are transplanted directly into peat pots with the tablets.

Tablets are made from a pressed peat mixture and enclosed in a mesh shell impregnated with a fungicide that protects seedlings from blackleg and other fungal infections. The diameter of the tablets can be different - from 24 to 44 cm. For strawberry seedlings, tablets with a diameter of 24 or 33 cm are suitable. The tablets are placed in a container with high walls and filled with warm water. When the tablets are saturated with moisture and increase in size, the excess water is drained.

Strawberry seeds using a damp toothpick laid out in holes located on the surface of each tablet, after which the container is covered with a transparent lid with holes for air exchange and placed in a warm, bright place where direct sunlight does not reach. If there is no lid, cover the container with plastic wrap, but in this case you will have to ventilate the crops daily and remove condensation from the film.

Strawberry seedlings in a greenhouse

Strawberries are also grown indoors, but it is not the seeds that are planted in the greenhouse, but seedlings that are grown at home or purchased from nurseries.

How to grow frigo strawberry seedlings

Frigo strawberry seedlings are becoming increasingly popular. Countries such as Holland and Great Britain have almost completely switched to growing strawberries using this method. What are frigo seedlings, what are their pros and cons?

In late autumn, developed rosettes of the first and second order are dug out in the garden and stored until planting in open ground or in a greenhouse in comfortable conditions - with an air humidity of 85-90% and a temperature of 0-1 ºC.

The advantage of this method of storing seedlings is that during the winter the rosettes are not exposed to adverse factors, and therefore subsequently produce a high and high-quality harvest. In addition, planting frigo in the ground at different times allows you to obtain berries almost continuously throughout the season. Frigo seedlings tolerate transportation well and quickly take root, and all the nutrients that the rosette has accumulated over the past season are not spent on the development of the bush, but are used to form more berries.

• class A - these are rosettes with a diameter of 12-15 cm, which form no more than two flower arrows;
• class A+ - rosettes with a diameter of more than 15 cm with a shortened shoot, forming 2-3 flower arrows;
• class A+ extra - the diameter of rosettes in this category is more than 20 cm, they have lateral horns and at least 5 peduncles are formed.

However, it is difficult for amateur gardeners to use the frigo method, since it is difficult to determine exactly when to dig up rosettes, and creating the necessary conditions for storing seedlings is also not easy - the temperature in the storage must be constant, since the slightest deviation can lead to either premature germination of buds or freezing of the roots. In addition, expensive equipment is required to process seedlings before storing them. Therefore, it is better not to grow frigo seedlings, but to buy them.

Is it worth it to buy strawberry seedlings?

The seed method is used to grow mainly seedlings of remontant strawberries, as well as hybrid varieties that do not form runners. Self-collected seeds of hybrid or remontant varieties are not suitable for propagation, because the seedlings grown from them rarely retain the characteristics of the variety. It is in such cases that you have to purchase strawberry seedlings.

Where to buy strawberry seedlings? When purchasing seedlings on the market, you will not receive any guarantees other than the seller’s assurances, so it is better to purchase seedlings in nurseries, garden pavilions or at fairs where seedlings are exported by manufacturers. Since garden strawberries are susceptible to diseases and pests, it is very important to be able to choose healthy and high-quality seedlings.

How to determine the quality of seedlings? Pay attention to these signs:

• if seedlings have spots on the leaves, this may be a symptom of fungal spots;
• seedlings with faded leaves should alert you, since pallor may be a sign of incurable fusarium necrosis of the horns;
• wrinkling of young leaves may mean that the seedlings are affected by strawberry mites, and it is better not to buy such seedlings;
• healthy seedlings should have shiny, pubescent or leathery leaves of a rich green color;
• the length of the roots of seedlings with an open root system must be at least 7 cm, and the thickness of the horns must be at least 7 mm;
• if the seedlings are sold in pots, make sure that the roots have taken up the entire volume of the container.

Caring for strawberry seedlings at home

Conditions for growing strawberry seedlings

Before the first shoots appear, which may appear in 2-3 weeks, the strawberry crops are kept at a temperature of about 25 ºC, and as soon as the first greens appear, the container is moved to the brightest place, and the temperature is lowered to 18-20 ºC. The covering from the crops has not yet been removed, but continue to ventilate the seedlings daily and, if necessary, remove condensation from the film.

As soon as the seedlings begin to develop their first true leaves, you need to increase the duration of daily ventilation, accustoming the seedlings to the conditions of your home.

To speed up the adaptation process, make several holes in the film.

If the seedlings in the container have sprouted too densely, it is better to thin them out.

The grown and strengthened seedlings growing in a common container are planted in pots, and those seedlings that were immediately sown in separate containers are transplanted into larger containers as soon as their rosettes grow to 5 cm in diameter. after transplantation, the plants are kept at a temperature of 18 to 25 ºC.

Watering strawberry seedlings

Strawberry seedlings at home can survive for a long time without watering - as long as condensation appears on the surface, there is no need to moisten the soil with the seedlings. Then, as the top layer dries, the substrate is watered with melted water or, in extreme cases, water at room temperature that has stood for 24 hours.

Excessive moisture creates a risk of seedlings becoming infected with blackleg. Lack of moisture can also lead to the death of seedlings.

When watering, do not allow water to get on the leaves - this will cause stains on them.

Do not water the seedlings from a watering can; it is better to use a fine spray or syringe to moisten the seedlings at the root.

Fertilizing strawberry seedlings

At an early age, strawberry seedlings are not fed, since they have enough nutrients in the substrate, but when the seedlings have formed four true leaves, they begin to apply fertilizers, which should contain nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. To fertilize strawberry seedlings, it is better to alternate different formulations every 10-12 days - Kemiru Lux, Aquarin and Mortar, for example, to which it is good to add a two percent solution of the necessary microelements. When preparing the nutrient solution, keep in mind that for seedlings, the dosage indicated in the instructions should be halved.

Illumination of strawberry seedlings

If you sow strawberry seeds in winter or early spring, you will have to organize a source of additional lighting for the seedlings in the form of a phytolamp, LED or fluorescent lamp. This is necessary to ensure that the seedlings do not stretch.

Do not try to get out of the situation with a regular incandescent lamp - it emits the wrong rays that plants need, and also heats the air.

The lamp is installed above the seedlings at a distance of 20-25 cm. For the first 2-3 days, when the mass emergence of seedlings begins, the lamps are operated around the clock, and then artificial lighting should work 13-14 hours a day. For convenience, we recommend purchasing a timer socket that turns lights on and off automatically.

Picking strawberry seedlings

At the stage of formation, the seedlings have 2-4 true leaves; seedlings growing in a common container are planted in separate cups. Before the procedure, the substrate in which the seedlings grow is abundantly moistened, the plants are removed from the soil by the cotyledon leaves, the central root of each seedling is pinched and transplanted into a pot with soil, in which a deep hole must first be made. The seedling is placed so that the root does not curl up when planting. They deepen the seedlings to the same level at which they grew before picking, and then add enough substrate to the pot so that the seedling is immersed in it up to the cotyledons. After picking, the soil around the seedlings is pressed and watered.

Diseases of strawberry seedlings and their treatment

Perhaps the only disease of strawberry seedlings that you really need to be wary of is blackleg. This is a fungal disease that affects plants during the seedling period. The blackleg progresses against the background of high humidity - literally in a few days the base of the affected plant turns black, becomes soft, the stem breaks and lies down. The earlier you detect the disease, the more seedlings you can save from death. Transplant healthy seedlings into a sterile substrate and place in a warm place, protected from direct sunlight. As soon as the seedlings take root, you need to lower the temperature slightly and add a fungicide to the water for irrigation in accordance with the instructions. Sick plants cannot be cured - they are destroyed.

In addition to black leg, seedlings have other problems that worry our readers.

Strawberry seedlings dry out

It happens that with frequent but insufficient watering, the bottom layer of the substrate dries out, and the roots of the seedlings begin to suffocate. Water the seedlings not so often, but abundantly, to saturate the soil to its full depth with moisture.

Strawberry seedlings are rotting

Sometimes seedlings suffocate from excess water and therefore lack of oxygen, so check that the drainage holes are not clogged. Stagnant moisture in plant roots provokes the development of root rot. To avoid such a development of events, transplant the seedlings as soon as possible into a fresh substrate, after first washing their roots in a solution of Fitosporin or potassium permanganate.

Strawberry seedlings stretch out

Since the sowing of strawberry seeds for seedlings is carried out in winter or early spring, the seedlings may lack light, and as a result they become elongated, wither and weaken.

• This also happens when the room temperature is too high, therefore, after the emergence of seedlings, it is necessary to lower the temperature in the room for several days and provide the seedlings with round-the-clock additional lighting.
• The reason for the stretching of seedlings can be sowing too thick– seedlings shade each other, and they have to literally reach for the light.
• Seedlings can stretch from oversaturation of the substrate with nitrogen. In this case, you also need to lower the air temperature, stop fertilizing and reduce watering.

Strawberry seedlings have changed leaf color

Most often, the leaves of seedlings change their color due to an excess or, conversely, a deficiency of one or another element in the soil. For example, plants can simply be poisoned by concentrated fertilizers. To wash excess fertilizers from the substrate, you need to spill it with a large amount of water, arranging the container with the crops so that the water flows freely from it. Or just change the substrate.

The leaves of strawberry seedlings can also change color due to a lack of nitrogen in the soil - the stems of the seedlings become thinner, the leaves become smaller and become pale green. Due to a lack of phosphorus in the soil, the leaves on the underside acquire a purple tint, and if the plants do not receive enough potassium, their lower leaves turn yellow at the tips and curl. Strawberry seedlings react to iron deficiency by the appearance of chlorotic spots on the leaves; due to a lack of magnesium, the leaves acquire a marbled color, and boron deficiency is expressed in the death of the growing point.

Spots on the leaves of seedlings may also appear due to the fact that sea sand containing salt was included in the soil. It is necessary to transplant the seedlings into a more suitable substrate, rinsing their roots from salt.

An interesting fact is that when grown in peat tablets, seedlings, as a rule, do not get sick... and the like. In the fall, six months before the strawberry seedlings are ready to be transplanted into the garden bed in the spring, you need to add 3-4 kg of compost or humus to the soil for digging for each m² of plot (when cultivating poor soils, the amount of organic matter is doubled), 15-20 g potassium chloride or sulfate and 30-40 g of double superphosphate. In the spring, humus or compost is scattered around the site at the same rate - 3-4 kg per m², then the soil is loosened with a hoe to a depth of 10-12 cm, while organic fertilizers are incorporated into the soil.

Two weeks before planting seedlings in the garden Strawberries are subjected to hardening procedures: The seedlings are taken out into the open air every day, first for a short time, then the duration of the procedure is gradually increased until the seedlings can spend 24 hours a day in the yard. Try to gradually accustom them to direct rays of the sun, but make sure that the seedlings do not stand in a draft.

Strawberry seedlings are planted in open ground when the return spring frosts have left behind and the soil has warmed up to 12 ºC, that is, from mid-May to mid-June. Planting is carried out after 17:00 or on a cloudy day. On a leveled bed, deep and wide holes are made at a distance of 20 to 40 cm in a row - depending on what variety of garden strawberries you are planting. The row spacing is left from 40 to 70 cm wide. The soil, which is removed from each hole, is mixed with two glasses of wood ash, this mixture is poured into the hole in a heap and a strawberry seedling is placed on the heap.

The roots of the seedling are straightened, the soil mixture is gradually added to the hole, while at the same time adding water in small portions so that there is no air left in the roots of the seedling. The seedlings are buried so that the heart eventually ends up at the level of the surface of the plot. If the heart is underground, the plant's apical buds will dry out, and if the planting is too shallow, there is a risk of exposing the roots, which can lead to their drying out. After planting, the surface of the area is mulched with a layer of peat 3-5 cm thick.

Growing strawberries from seeds is a rather labor-intensive and time-consuming process. Therefore, it is worth doing this only in cases where it is necessary to propagate the variety you like. Well, or if you want to take long and painstaking care of something.

Strawberries are a long-growing crop with a low germination rate. The most popular method among gardeners has become the method of propagation by mustaches or dividing bushes. But if you need to grow strawberries from seeds, then you should strictly adhere to all the recommendations below.

Seed selection

The most effective way will be to grow strawberries from seeds collected with your own hands. The time and labor spent here are justified. After all, most likely, the seeds were collected from a variety you liked, which surprised you with its taste or abundance of harvest. If you follow the rules for collecting and storing planting material, you can improve germination by a third.

To collect strawberry seeds, you need to take a ripe, but not overripe fruit, soak it in warm water for 3-4 days. It should be remembered that hybrids, when propagated by self-collected seeds, do not repeat all the qualities of the mother bush, so the appropriate variety must be selected. Gently grind the strawberries fermented in water through a sieve, rinse the separated seeds with running water, dry well for several days and pack in paper bags. Planting material should be stored in a cool, dark place.

When purchasing seeds, you need to pay attention to the period of their collection and storage. It is desirable that this be fresh planting material collected in the previous season. Seeds stored for a year or more significantly lose their viability.

Preparing the soil and container

The land intended for growing strawberries should be given special attention. From sowing to seedlings reaching the required size for planting in open ground, it takes about three months. Therefore, all this time the soil must be in decent condition.

An ideal option for growing long-growing crops such as strawberries are peat tablets. They are completely ready to use; you just need to saturate them with water and plant the seeds. For strawberries, the thinnest tablets are suitable, growing after swelling to 5-6 cm, no more.

You can use purchased soil for seedlings or make a soil mixture for growing strawberries yourself. It should be very light and porous, not retain moisture, and consist of two parts sand, one part humus and turf soil. Any soil, store-bought or home-made, must be disinfected. This can be done using a strong solution of potassium permanganate, pouring it well over the entire soil, or heating it in the oven for two hours. An excellent way to stimulate the correct microclimate in the soil over a long period of time is the colonization of good microorganisms acquired in the form of biological preparations.

You can grow strawberries in any available containers - cake and cookie containers, disposable cups, cut-off plastic bottles. It is enough that they are no deeper than 6-7 cm. The inner walls of the container also need to be treated with a disinfectant solution, dried well before filling with earth, and holes pierced in several places. The container should be filled with soil, leaving a few centimeters to the top edge of the side so that the seedlings that have sprouted under the shelter have enough space.

Seed preparation

You can grow strawberries from seeds throughout the year, but if you want to get a harvest from them already in June, the optimal sowing option is mid-January, all of February. Then by May it will have gained sufficient green mass, it will have formed a strong root system capable of transplanting into open ground and producing the first harvest. You can wait until March to plant remontant varieties, when daylight hours become longer. By August, young strawberries will already be able to pamper you with their first berries.

Experienced gardeners have different opinions regarding whether to soak planting material or not. Some advise keeping the seeds for a couple of days in a humid environment or in a growth stimulator, others consider this activity useless. If the seeds are fresh, collected with your own hands, or there is no doubt about the integrity of their supplier, then it may not be worthwhile to germinate them. Otherwise, it is better to lay them out on a damp cloth to make sure that they are swollen and capable of sprouting.

Sowing

The most popular way to plant small seeds, be it strawberries, petunia, lobelia or any other similar plants, is to sow them in the snow. Snow is laid out on the surface of the prepared soil in a layer of 2-3 cm. Tiny strawberry seeds will be very clearly visible on it. Having melted, the snow will not only saturate the soil with the moisture necessary for the first time, but will also gently draw the seeds into it. After sowing, seeds should be stratified and their germination accelerated. To do this, just place the container on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator for 2-3 days.

Sown strawberry seeds do not need to be covered with soil. The container with them should be covered with glass, film or a lid and placed on the windowsill, isolated from direct sunlight. Strawberries need light from the first days of planting. In microgreenhouse conditions, under the lid, it will remain until the first shoots. There is no need to water it - the moisture from the melted snow will last for a long time if the shelter turns out to be quite airtight. The first shoots of strawberries may appear in one and a half to two weeks, but some varieties sprout only after three weeks.

Caring for strawberry seedlings

During the growing period of strawberries, drops of water will appear on the lid of the container, indicating its tightness. They must be removed with a clean rag or paper towels. To ventilate the sprouts, the time required to remove moisture from the lid is sufficient. If, with proper care, drops do not form, this indicates that the soil is drying out. You can spray its surface with a spray bottle or add water to a pre-prepared tray. The lid can be completely removed when the seedlings have 2-3 leaves. After this, it is necessary to especially carefully monitor the sufficient amount of moisture in the soil.

Lighting

The winter months may not provide plants with enough light outside the window. Therefore, any of them, planted as seedlings in January-February, needs additional lighting. To do this, you can use special structures with a fluorescent lamp or ordinary table lamps in extreme cases. But strawberries must receive their ten hours of light. Otherwise, she will stretch out, become frail and painful.

Watering

Seedlings should be watered as needed when the top layer of soil is dry to the touch. It is better to pour water into a tray to avoid the formation of mold on the surface and infection of seedlings with blackleg. If you need to water the surface of the soil, this should be done carefully, using a spoon or syringe, so that the tender sprouts are not washed away by the stream of water.

Top dressing

In the first days, the seedlings have enough nutrients in the soil. The first feeding necessary for successfully growing strawberries from seeds is done after the sprouts have formed 2-3 permanent leaves. You can take complex fertilizers containing nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, enriched with microelements. You need to repeat fertilizing every week and a half. It is necessary to strictly adhere to the instructions included with the fertilizers so that their excess does not provoke active growth of greenery to the detriment of the fruits.

If fungus or mold appears

In conditions of high humidity and temperature created under the lid of a container with seedlings, growing strawberries from seeds can be difficult by the possibility of green, black spots of fungus or white cobwebs of mold appearing on the surface of the soil. All these troubles must be removed, the soil must be disinfected with a strong solution of potassium permanganate or a commercial antifungal agent. Watering into a tray significantly reduces the possibility of deposits appearing on the soil surface. Regular ventilation helps prevent soil contamination.

Picking

If the plants are planted in one common container, then after 3-4 weeks they need to be planted in separate containers and planted. This will help the root system to develop better, and provide the above-ground part with additional volume for growth.

Strawberries should be picked after the formation of 3-4 pairs of leaves on the sprout. To do this, you should thoroughly water the soil, give it the opportunity to absorb water and become more pliable when removing the sprouts. You can place a clod of soil with seedlings on the table and, pouring water, wash off all the soil from the roots. If the plants are intertwined with their roots, you should carefully untangle them with a toothpick, taking your time and not trying to pull the sprouts to the sides with your hands. A damaged root system will lead to disease, slow growth or death of the plant.

Before planting, you need to make several holes in the bottom of the pot to allow excess moisture to escape. Strawberry seedlings are planted in pots with soil, the composition of which is closest to the soil where they will be planted in a permanent place. It also needs to be watered well before planting, make a notch with your finger, and plant the stem in it. When replanting, it is very important not to cover the heart from which the leaves grow.

Hardening of seedlings

A few days before planting in open ground, strawberry seedlings must be hardened off. To do this, you need to take it outside for a few minutes, increasing the hardening period every day. The air temperature for hardening should not be below zero.

Everyone is familiar with small-fruited strawberries, and no one will refuse to eat this super-sweet berry. Those who have their own plot of land must definitely plant strawberries on it. Small-fruited strawberry seedlings can be purchased, or you can grow strawberry seedlings yourself.

Growing strawberries from seeds

Usually, remontant strawberry varieties that do not form runners are propagated by seeds. The process of growing strawberries from seeds cannot be called easy, but efforts are always rewarded.

Propagation of large-fruited strawberries by seeds gives us seedlings that do not have the characteristics of “parents,” especially when collecting seeds on a private plot, where different varieties can grow nearby. There are no guarantees that the characteristics and characteristics of the variety will be preserved when propagated by large-fruited strawberry seeds.

I especially like the remontant small-fruited strawberries represented by modern varieties, because the formation of their flower buds and fruiting can last throughout the warm season, until frost. The aroma and taste of such strawberries is no different from wild strawberries, but their berries are almost 5 times larger than wild strawberries.

Growing strawberries at home

We can talk a lot about the characteristics and features of small-fruited strawberries, but now let’s look at growing small-fruited strawberries with seeds. The growing process usually begins in February-March.

Choosing strawberry seeds

It is better to buy small-fruited strawberry seeds of proven varieties. If you are not familiar with them, then let's get acquainted.

Varieties of beardless remontant strawberries

I would like to highlight the following varieties of small-fruited strawberries:

• Gross Fraser;
• Yellow miracle;
• Rügen;
• Regina;
• Baron Solimacher;
• Alexandria;
• Ali Baba;
• Pineapple;
• White Soul;
• White Swan;
• Renaissance.

Beardless small-fruited strawberries can grow well at home in pots and bear fruit even in winter.

Soil for strawberries and containers

In this case, it is very important to pay attention to the soil; it must be disinfected from harmful microorganisms. It is best to use peat tablets or peat plates, but if you choose soil, it should consist of 5 parts humus and three parts sand. This mixture should be heated for 3-4 hours at 90-100 ºC in the oven.

Growing strawberries in peat tablets

Pour peat tablets with warm water for 5-10 minutes. After the tablets swell, they should be placed in a plastic (fungus does not spread in it) transparent container. This could be a plastic container for salads, pastries, pies, etc. You can also take a five-liter plastic bottle, lay it on its side and split it in half with a knife.

Any container must be thoroughly washed and disinfected with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Growing strawberry seedlings from seeds

Soaking strawberry seeds

This issue is very controversial; some gardeners recommend soaking the seeds in a growth stimulant, while others consider this unnecessary. Soaking the seeds in a growth stimulant will not hurt if the expiration date of the seeds expires.

Stratification of strawberry seeds

Seed germination using stratification is accelerated, as it gives the seeds a boost to growth, bringing them out of hibernation. Stratification of strawberry seeds is carried out in the following way.

Caring for strawberry seedlings

The container is filled with soil, leaving 1-2 cm to the edges, then compacting it a little, pouring snow on top tightly, compacting it. We distribute the seeds of small-fruited strawberries over the snow and place the container in the refrigerator on the bottom shelf for 2-3 days. The melting snow will pull the strawberry seeds into the soil to the required depth. After three days, remove the container from the refrigerator and place it in a warm place.

Germinating strawberry seeds at home

The most exciting stage, the duration of which can be 7-30 days. After removing the container with the sown seeds from the refrigerator, it should be covered with glass, or possibly film, and placed in a warm, illuminated place.

The condensation that forms on the film or glass indicates optimal humidity inside the greenhouse. This moisture must be removed both from the walls of the container and from the lid using paper napkins or toilet paper. It is also necessary to ventilate the greenhouse 1-2 times a day by opening it (1-2 minutes). Do not allow direct sunlight to fall on the container with crops, as the soil will be dry and moisture will form.

Growing strawberry seedlings in cassettes

Most often, during the germination period, additional watering is not necessary, but if fog and drops do not form, and the temperature in the greenhouse is 22-25 ºC, then wetting the soil is indispensable, preferably with an antifungal drug. Observe the temperature regime! If the temperature is below 20 ºC, then you may not get seedlings, but mold will definitely form on strawberries.

Lighting strawberry seedlings

Remember - strawberry seeds germinate in the light! In winter, there is not enough natural light, so you can’t do without additional lighting of strawberry seedlings. For this you will need either phytolamps or fluorescent lamps. It is advisable to provide additional lighting from 6:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m.

Diseases and pests of strawberry seedlings

Mold on strawberry seedlings

You are lucky if thirty days have passed and shoots have appeared and the soil has not become moldy. The first sign of fungus is the appearance of cobwebby fibers of mold on the ground, which urgently need to be removed. To do this, take cotton wool or soft paper, soak it in potassium permanganate and remove any pockets of mold. Next, we spill the soil with an antifungal agent and constantly ventilate the seedlings.

When real leaves (2-3 pairs) appear, remove the glass or film. You need to water the plants very carefully, without touching them, using a spoon or syringe.

Growing strawberries in a container

Caring for strawberry seedlings

Strawberry seedlings in peat tablets are watered only through a tray. You should not overwater; sufficient watering is indicated by the appearance of a dark spot on the peat column. Overflows are sources of the development of unpleasant diseases, the main one being “blackleg”. First, check whether it needs to be watered by testing the soil from the outside and deeper with your finger.

Strawberry shoots are a thin stalk that branches higher from the ground into small leaves. We need to help the strawberry seedlings develop; to do this, we will sprinkle them under the very cotyledons of the soil. After this, additional roots will begin to grow. It is easier to do this if the seeds were sown in small depressions, then you just need to “press” the soil towards the sprout.

Picking strawberry seedlings

When real leaves (3-4 pairs) appear, you can begin planting strawberry seedlings into separate containers. These can be disposable plastic cups (with a drainage hole). When picking, do not cover the growing point of the strawberry. If the roots of the seedlings are intertwined, then you need to soak the soil in water and untangle the roots with a fork, carefully separating the plants. A plastic cup will be enough for a strawberry seedling before planting in the soil. Remove the first strawberry flower stalks sparingly so that the plant develops well.

Strawberries are one of the central crops in almost any summer cottage. You can grow it either from young plants purchased at a nursery, or by sowing strawberries for seedlings yourself. The second option is a troublesome and lengthy process, but it is worth it.

A reasonable question arises: if strawberries can be planted on a summer cottage in the form of seedlings purchased from someone, then why bother and grow them from seeds? Moreover, getting young plants from seeds on your own is not so easy. However, even experienced gardeners, and not just newcomers to the world of plant growing, often grow strawberries from seeds. There are several reasons.

1. This is an excellent opportunity to plant a new, sometimes even unique, variety of berry in your summer cottage.

Strawberries at a summer cottage can be of two types:

• large-fruited, which produces large juicy berries;
• small-fruited remontant(also called alpine), which bears fruit several times from the beginning of summer until autumn.

On a note! You can grow absolutely any strawberry from seeds. The only difference is that alpine seeds germinate better and faster than those that produce large fruits, and such seeds are cheaper.

When you choose strawberry seeds for growing seedlings, try to choose fresh ones, and also prefer varieties from well-known manufacturers of products from unknown companies. This will increase the chances of success when growing seedlings.

Prices for strawberry seeds

strawberry seeds

When to sow seeds

After strawberry seeds have been purchased, you need to decide when to plant them as seedlings. It makes no sense to do this too early, since grown plants can only be transplanted into more or less warmed soil. And if you sow late, you may not have time to wait for the harvest.

The usual time for sowing strawberry seeds is February and March. This way you will get the first harvest early enough. Some sow in May, but then their seedlings overwinter at home on the windowsill, and not in the country. You shouldn’t sow seeds before February, otherwise the seedlings will need additional lighting to grow and develop. Daylight hours for young strawberry bushes should not last less than 12 hours.

On a note! It’s better not to choose just one variety – buy several different ones and try to sow them all. This way you will protect yourself from the fact that one of the varieties will not sprout at all, and you will be able to choose the one you like the most.

Seed preparation

Strawberry seeds will sprout amicably only if pre-sowing preparation has been carried out, which includes soaking and stratification. Stratification is the creation of artificial conditions close to natural for seeds. This is necessary in order to stop the action of growth blockers - special substances that keep the seeds dormant. Stratification is quite simple.

Step 1. The seeds are laid out on pieces of natural fabric or cotton pads, slightly moistened with water, and then covered with a second damp cloth and placed in a container with a lid with ventilation holes.

Step 2. In this state, the seeds are kept for about 3 days at a temperature of +16-18 degrees.

Step 3. Place the container in the refrigerator for 14 days.

Step 4. Remove the container from the refrigerator and place it in a room where the air temperature is about +18 degrees.

Step 5. Every couple of days, check the seeds and wait for germination.

Preparing containers and soil

While the seeds are undergoing stratification, it’s time to start preparing containers and soil for seedlings. There are several options for preparing soil mixtures suitable for growing strawberry seedlings. The main conditions are good water permeability and lightness.

Table. Options for soil mixtures for strawberries.

On a note! It’s good if you sift the soil through a large sieve. This will remove large particles and debris.

Plastic containers with a transparent lid in which holes are made for air access are excellent as containers for strawberry seedlings. And drainage holes are made at the bottom of each container. They are filled with soil, not reaching the top 2-3 cm. Before planting the seeds, the soil is moistened.

Sowing strawberry seeds for seedlings

One of the ways to sow strawberry seeds is to combine this process with stratification.

Step 1. Since strawberry seeds are very small, they can be planted in the ground using a pointed wooden stick. The tip of the stick is moistened with water and then one seed is picked up with it. Afterwards, it is carefully shaken off onto the soil, which has already been previously placed in a container and leveled.

Step 2. Similarly, you need to shake off all the seeds onto the ground. In this case, you should try to distribute them evenly over the area.

Step 3. The soil should be thoroughly moistened with water from a spray bottle.

Step 4. After all the seeds are on the ground, there is no need to sprinkle them with soil - instead, the surface is covered with a layer of snow from the street. Clean snow must be used.

Step 5. After this, the container is closed with film or a lid.

Step 6. If the outside temperature is down to -5 degrees, then the container is placed outside. If it’s colder or warmer, then put it in the refrigerator.

Step 7 In a day, the snow will almost melt, and the inside of the box will look like in the photo. In general, the snow should not melt immediately, but within 4-5 days - this is when optimal conditions for the germination of strawberry seeds will be created.

When snow melts, it gives water, which carries the seeds into the ground. Only in this case will the plants sprout as abundantly as possible, but they will appear in about 10-15 days, or even in a month. The container with the seeds is kept in the refrigerator for about two weeks.

Video - Sowing strawberries

We use peat tablets

Today, gardeners are increasingly growing strawberry seedlings not using the method described above, but using.

The positive aspects of using such tablets are as follows:

• significant savings in time and effort;
• excellent substrate for growing strawberry seedlings;
• there is no need to carry out the procedure of picking seedlings.

Peat tablets come in different sizes - from 24 to 44 mm in diameter. In the case of germinating strawberry seeds, the optimal diameter is 24-33 mm.

Step 1. Prepare the seeds and germinate them using the technology described in the “Seed Preparation” section.

Step 2. Peat tablets are placed in a plastic container and filled with water. Give it time to absorb, then drain off the residue. The tablets swell during this time.

Step 3. After this, the fabric with the seeds is unrolled, each seed is removed from it with a toothpick, a large needle or any thin object.

Step 4. Each seed is transferred into a tablet. One can accommodate several pieces at once - for example, 4-6.

Step 5. The seeds are slightly buried, but not too much.

Step 6. After this, peat tablets with seeds are sprinkled with water from a spray bottle, closed with a lid and placed under a lamp for 3 days under constant light.

Prices for peat tablets

peat tablets

Seedling care

Caring for germinating strawberry seeds and seedlings includes several basic aspects. You can familiarize yourself with them by studying the table.

Table. Caring for strawberry seedlings.

Fragrant strawberries with tasty fruits are especially loved by gardeners. A huge number of varieties grown in garden plots provide a pleasing harvest from the beginning of summer until the cold weather. It is not always possible to buy the seedlings you need, and they are not cheap. However, you can successfully grow seedlings from seeds at home.

Features of growing strawberries of different varieties

Among the variety of varieties of these berries, remontant ones are distinguished, which make it possible to obtain a good harvest for a long time. They do not have whiskers, so gardeners use growing strawberries from seeds at home. Non-remontant species reproduce using seedlings. They are obtained from the mustache - it is more convenient, and the result is strong, healthy seedlings. When planting such strawberries with seeds, the characteristics of the variety are not always preserved.

Remontant strawberry

This type of garden berries is distinguished by the fact that it bears fruit from June until frost. Delicious fruits with the aroma of wild strawberries can be small or large - they are also called strawberries. Very beautiful - white, yellow, red - they decorate the garden plot and serve as decor for flower beds. Remontant varieties differ:

• resistance to low temperatures;
• lack of mustache;
• immunity to insects;
• getting the harvest before the cold weather;
• resistance to diseases.

Growing strawberries from seeds at home helps the gardener have plants that cannot always be purchased as seedlings. The following varieties have good reviews:

• Baron Solemacher. Grow in pots on the balcony, in open or closed ground.
• Ali Baba. High-yielding, with increased disease resistance.
• Queen Elizabeth has fragrant, large fruits.
• Alexandria. An unpretentious, productive variety.
• Merlan. Such strawberries on the balcony will delight you with bright flowers and berries.

An interesting variety is Frigo, which does not overwinter in the garden beds. The plant is dug up when the season ends and stored in refrigerators at low temperatures, hermetically sealed. The variety is used for growing strawberries on an industrial scale. It differs in that you can schedule the date of harvest. The following varieties are grown at home from seeds:

• Ruyana. Differs in early ripening.
• Alexandrina. Small-fruited, very decorative.
• Tarpan. With large berries, bright pink flowers.
• Elan. For vertical growing on the balcony.

Non-remontant varieties

Propagation of seedlings of non-remontant varieties is carried out from the plant's tendrils. This process is less complicated and more effective - the seedlings take root quickly and produce a harvest, but in the second year. It makes no sense to grow strawberries from seeds at home. The most popular varieties are:

• "Lord";
• "Gigantella";
• "Mashenka";
• "Muscat";
• "Milanskaya".

How to grow strawberries from seeds on a windowsill

A very exciting, albeit troublesome, activity is growing seedlings from seeds at home. The main thing is to want it, and everything will work out. You will be rewarded with a bountiful harvest - strawberries from seeds will delight you with fruits from the first year of planting. Select a variety in advance and purchase seeds. Even in winter, buy containers and soil, worry about lamps to extend daylight hours.

Growing strawberry seedlings from seeds

Obtaining strawberry seedlings at home begins with preparing the soil and containers. Choose a place where the seeds will germinate. The main stages of growing seedlings:

• seed preparation - soaking, stratification;
• sowing in a container with soil;
• ventilation of seedlings;
• watering;
• picking into pots;
• feeding;
• hardening;
• transfer to the site.

Preparing soil and containers for seedlings

When preparing soil for seedlings, you need to mix equal parts of vermicompost and sand, add 3 times more peat. To get rid of pests, it is recommended to calcine the soil for 20 minutes using an oven. This is done three weeks before planting to allow the soil to recover. To grow seedlings from seeds, use disposable food containers with a lid. Plants are planted in pots, peat tablets, and molds with cells measuring 5x5 cm.

Seed preparation

In order for the seeds to germinate well and produce strong shoots when growing seedlings, they need to be prepared for planting at home. At this moment, 2 operations are performed - soaking and stratification. The seeds are placed on a cotton pad placed in a disposable food container. Moisten generously with snow water and leave for two days. Then the container is kept for 2 weeks on the refrigerator shelf - this is stratification, which improves germination.

The prepared seeds are placed on moist soil in increments of 2 centimeters, covered with film, then the container is placed where it is warm. Important - do not sprinkle soil on top. There is another way to sow crops at home, which does not require additional preparation. When germinating seeds with this option you need:

• prepare a small container with soil;
• spill the soil with water;
• pour snow on top;
• tamp it down lightly;
• sow seeds on top;
• cover with film;
• put in the refrigerator for a day;
• Then the strawberries will be on the windowsill until they sprout, and they need watering and ventilation.

Seedling care

After the sprouts appear, the plants are carefully transplanted into a container, where they will remain until planted on the site. Good lighting and watering are important at this stage. In spring, daylight hours are still short, so you need to lengthen them artificially using lamps. With the appearance of the third leaf, the plant is fed. Fertilizers are used for this:

• "Aquarin";
• "Kemira-Lux";
• "Solution."

Picking and planting seedlings in a permanent place

Approximately 7 weeks after planting the plant, it can be planted in the ground. Before this, at home, strawberries are taken out to the balcony for hardening at a temperature of 15 degrees. Start at two hours, then gradually increase the time. It is advisable to shade the plants so as not to burn them from the sun. If you plant strawberries by mid-May, you will receive a harvest by the end of summer.

Planting is done in cloudy weather; during the first days, strawberries are protected from the sun. The area for seedlings is leveled, compost and potash fertilizers are added to the soil. The soil should be loose and light. It is not advisable to pick, so as not to spoil the roots. The plant is carefully transferred from the pot to the hole. When using peat tablets for seedlings from seeds, they should be planted directly into the ground. The distance between the holes is 40 cm. To facilitate maintenance, the ground between the bushes is mulched.

Rules for caring for strawberries after planting in the ground

In order for your berries to please you with your harvest, you should adhere to certain rules:

• Water regularly.
• Loose between the bushes to improve oxygen access to the roots and retain moisture. This is done three times before the berries appear.
• Weeding.
• Remove old leaves.
• In preparation for winter, reduce watering.
• Carry out mulching - covering the soil under the bushes with straw, sawdust, and grass. This retains moisture and prevents weeds from growing.

The famous gardener Oktyabrina Ganichkina, talking about growing strawberries, gives the following advice:

• If good varieties of strawberries are grown on your site and produce an excellent harvest, pick off the first flowers of remontant strawberries. After finishing the strawberry harvest, it will delight you with abundant fruiting.
• Fertilizers for strawberries are placed in the ground only before planting. To feed during the growth period, sprinkle the leaves with ash.