How to properly insulate a balcony with your own hands: technology from A to Z. Insulating a loggia with your own hands: step-by-step photo instructions with recommendations Step-by-step instructions for insulating a balcony

September 4, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction work (laying a foundation, erecting walls, constructing a roof, etc.). Internal construction work (laying internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technology, computer equipment, programming.

I have already talked many times about the internal insulation of balconies in city apartments and private houses, but I spent little time covering the question of how best to insulate a loggia from the inside. But the correct choice of thermal insulation material is the key to the effectiveness of the measures taken.

And now is the time to fill this gap. The instructions that I provide below will tell you how to choose the appropriate insulation material yourself.

Requirements for insulation

Before I tell you how to insulate the inside of a loggia with my own hands, I want to devote a few words to the criteria by which I personally choose thermal insulation materials for such work.

So, what it is advisable to pay attention to:

1. Heat transfer coefficient. The lower this parameter is, the better. That is, to insulate a room (be it a separate loggia or combined with the main room) you will have to use a smaller layer of material. This means that more usable space in the room will be saved.
2. Easy to install. The more complex the installation procedure for the thermal insulation material you have chosen, the longer and more labor-intensive the repair process will be, especially if done independently. However, I have already written a lot about how to properly insulate a loggia from the inside. If you need it, you can find the relevant material or ask a question in the comments.
3. Strength. It is better to choose insulation that can withstand external mechanical stress (both static and dynamic). In this case, subsequent decorative finishing of the room is facilitated.
4. Antiseptic. Internal insulation shifts the dew point inside the insulating pie. In addition, air vapors that are formed as a result of human activity can penetrate through the walls. Therefore, I recommend paying attention to materials that are not subject to biocorrosion - mold, mildew and other microorganisms, rodents and insects do not appear in them.
5. Affordable price. Naturally, this factor is also very important, although I would not put it at the forefront. Below I will tell you about insulating materials that have the optimal ratio of cost and performance characteristics. And then you can choose for yourself which material is best for insulation.

Characteristics of individual types of insulation

So, let's get started with the story. Let's start with the most common and very inexpensive heat insulator - expanded polystyrene or, as it is popularly called, polystyrene foam.

Expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene is a material consisting of 98% air, which is enclosed in closed polystyrene shells. The result is a kind of solid foam in sheets, which, after finishing the walls, floor and ceiling of the loggia, prevents unproductive heat loss.

Specifications

I’ll tell you briefly about the main technical characteristics of the material:

1. Thermal conductivity. The thermal conductivity coefficient of expanded polystyrene is in the range of 0.028-0.034 W/(m*K), that is, lower than that of mineral wool. The specific value depends on how dense the foam you purchase for the job.

I'll warn you right away. Do not confuse polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam. Although they are related, their technical characteristics differ significantly. Therefore, we will talk about EPS separately in the next section.

1. Vapor permeability and water absorption. Conventional construction foam does not allow air to penetrate through the insulating layer.

Therefore, insulating a loggia from the inside with polystyrene foam requires taking additional measures to ventilate the room in order to remove excess moisture from it. Otherwise, the microclimate in the room will be far from comfortable.

The situation with water absorption is different. When in contact with liquid, foam absorbs approximately 4% of its volume. However, unlike mineral wool, its heat-retaining properties do not deteriorate significantly, so there is no need to waterproof the insulating layer very carefully.

1. Strength. For insulation, construction foams are used, which meet the requirements of DIN number 7726 and are classified as “rigid”. That is, when a load is applied, the surface of the heat insulator reacts elastically. However, when dynamic or strong static force is applied, the integrity of the insulation may be compromised.

In other words, if you use polystyrene foam for the internal insulation of a loggia, you immediately need to decide how to finish the inside after insulation. You need to choose a method of decorative finishing that would simultaneously protect the insulating layer from mechanical damage.

The strength of polystyrene foam largely depends on its density. But as the density increases, the heat-retaining properties deteriorate. The optimal density of foam plastic for internal insulation is 25. You can buy 35, but this, in my opinion, is an unjustified waste of money.

1. Chemical resistance. Classically, expanded polystyrene perfectly tolerates the effects of household chemicals, which include soap, soda, and mineral fertilizers. It is chemically neutral in contact with bitumen resins, cement and lime mortars, and asphalts.

However, I myself saw how polystyrene foam “melts” when certain varnishes, drying oils and other similar substances come into contact with it. In addition, petroleum products with various alcohols are also dangerous.

All this once again suggests that if you are going to use this insulation for interior work, you should take care to carefully protect it.

1. Sound absorption. If you want the insulating layer to simultaneously act as a sound insulator, then you will be disappointed with polystyrene foam. It can protect a little only from impact noise, and only if you lay 10-15 centimeters of insulation.

Foam plastic does not dampen other noises that are transmitted through the air. The fact is that the cells with air inside the material are rigidly fixed and completely isolated from the outside world. Therefore, sound waves are not absorbed.

1. Antiseptic and environmentally friendly. In 2004, research by scientists from the USA finally proved that biological life on the surface of polystyrene foam is impossible. Therefore, there is no need to be afraid of the appearance of mold and mildew.

As for environmental issues (for some this is very important), everything is fine here too, since in the production of insulation they abandoned the use of freon, which harms the ozone layer of the planet. In addition, the foam itself lasts quite a long time without losing its performance properties. Moreover, regardless of the number of freezing and thawing cycles.

However, the insulation in question is susceptible to oxidation. Moreover, the lower the density of the material, the faster this process occurs. Especially if the material is exposed to direct sunlight. And during oxidation, it releases many harmful substances, which include:

• benzene;
• toluene;
• formaldehyde;
• methyl alcohol;
• acetophenone and so on.

But during the construction of houses, wood is also treated with various chemicals, which also harm human health. So wood cannot be considered a completely environmentally friendly building material. However, I am only stating the facts, and you will have to make the final choice.

1. Fire safety. According to current Russian standards (GOST number 30224-94), foam plastics belong to the third and fourth classes of flammability. In other words, they are very dangerous if you look at them from this point of view.

When choosing insulation, pay attention to what standards the polystyrene foam is certified to. In Europe, the flammability class is determined by three factors (biological, chemical and complex). So, experts from the EU believe that the most flammable material is wood, but do not take into account the danger of combustion products formed when foam plastic is ignited.

Therefore, when purchasing material, pay attention to certificates issued based on the results of comprehensive research. And buy polystyrene foam that contains fire retardants (it is marked with the letter “C”). This does not mean that such material will burn worse. It just requires longer exposure to a more intense flame to ignite.

In any case, I can say that despite various fire retardants and other additives to foam, it continues to remain a fairly flammable material. Therefore, if you are going to set up a workshop on the loggia, it is better to choose other materials for insulation. Moreover, fire retardants disappear over time.

1. Lifetime. If the foam installation technology is followed (that is, laying it under plaster or other decorative material), it will retain its performance properties for at least 30 years. However, this is if you don’t make mistakes, which I want to talk about below.

First of all, this is the wrong choice of elk insulation. Some, for example, believe that if you lay a foam plastic board 30 cm thick, the loggia will be insulated as efficiently as possible. This is not true, because thick insulation will warp and crack due to temperature fluctuations.

As a rule, 5 cm thick slabs or two such slabs stacked on top of each other are used to insulate a living space. Among other things, this installation method allows you to reduce the amount of smoke emitted during a fire and reduce the risk of poisoning people in the room.

Well, now I’ll summarize everything that’s been said and give some advice to those who have already decided to buy polystyrene foam to insulate their loggia:

1. For internal insulation, I recommend purchasing polystyrene foam labeled PSB-S with a density of 35-40. In any case, do not take insulation with a density of less than 25. It is only suitable for packaging household appliances, but not for construction.
2. Sometimes manufacturers mark foam plastic with the number “40,” which does not indicate its density. Therefore, pay attention not only to the numbers in the name, but also to the technical characteristics, which, according to the law, must be placed on the packaging or provided separately at the buyer’s request.
3. Buy polystyrene foam produced by extrusion (must be indicated in the accompanying documentation). This is the only way to give the material a density higher than 20 kg per cubic meter.
4. To check the quality of the material on the spot, break off a piece of it. If you see balls at the fracture site, which are also easy to separate, then you have packaging material in front of you. Polystyrene foam for insulation has cells in the form of polyhedra, along which fracture occurs.
5. If we talk about specific manufacturers, I recommend paying attention to the materials of TechnoNikol, BASF, Styrochem or Polimeri Europa. These materials are of excellent quality and are quite affordable.

Penoplex

Not long ago I used extruded polystyrene foam to insulate a balcony. And I chose a material from a domestic manufacturer for the work - penoplex. That’s why I’ll tell you about him in this section.

Specifications

The first extruded polystyrene foam was produced in the United States about half a century ago. The essence of the technological process is as follows: polystyrene foam granules are placed in a chamber where they melt under high temperature. Then this mass is foamed with the help of chemicals and squeezed out through rectangular nozzles onto a conveyor, where it cools.

For foaming, so-called foaming agents are used, that is, substances that, when heated, release gases: nitrogen or carbon dioxide.

After hardening, the extruded polystyrene strip is cut into slabs and packaged in polyethylene for transportation to construction sites.

As for penoplex, it consists of the following components:

• polystyrene;
• ground perlite;
• sodium bicarbonate;
• lemon acid;
• barium stearate;
• tetrabromoparaxylene.

The use of penophores in the production of penoplex gives the latter a porous structure, like polystyrene foam. But unlike the latter, the cells of this material are tightly connected to each other into a homogeneous structure, so the air is more evenly distributed inside the material.

The size of the air cells in the insulation is from 0.1 to 0.3 mm. They are insulated from each other, therefore they have good thermal resistance and low water absorption. In addition, this entire structure has greater strength than classic polystyrene foam (foam).

The exact technical characteristics of penoplex are shown in the illustration below:

As you can see, there are several varieties of this extruded polystyrene foam on the building materials market, which differ in the characteristics and sizes of the boards. Accordingly, they should be used to insulate various structures.

If you are not too versed in the above figures, I will decipher some parameters:

1. Coefficient of thermal conductivity. For penoplex this figure is approximately 0.03 W/(m*K). This is one of the lowest coefficients of all existing insulation materials. At the same time, what attracts me personally: this indicator does not change depending on humidity and temperature. That is, when using penoplex, there is no need to protect it with additional waterproofing membranes.
2. Hygroscopicity. When in contact with water or moist air, the foam board absorbs no more than 0.6% of its own volume. In this case, humidification continues only during the first 10 days after installation, and then stops. Only the top layers of insulation are impregnated, which has a positive effect on the integrity of the material.
3. Vapor permeability. The material does not allow moisture vapor dissolved in the air to pass through it well. Therefore, surfaces finished with penoplex are not covered with vapor barrier films. On the other hand, you will have to take measures to ventilate the room to remove excess water vapor.
4. Compression resistance. This parameter is excellent, which is achieved thanks to the homogeneous structure of the penoplex. Therefore, it can be used to insulate loggia floors (by laying insulation under a cement screed). If you apply significant force to the insulation, a dent no more than 1 mm deep may form on the surface.
5. Environmentally friendly. Although the manufacturer claims that the material is completely safe for the environment and humans, during operation it still releases a small amount of chemical compounds that can be hazardous to health.
6. Lifetime. Experiments carried out at the Penoplex plant show that the material is able to withstand more than 50 consecutive freezing and thawing cycles. Therefore, when used outdoors, it will retain its technical characteristics for at least half a century. And inside the loggia there is even more.

To all of the above, I can also add that penoplex tolerates the effects of aggressive chemicals and solvents well. However, it is destroyed upon contact with petroleum products, benzene, formaldehyde, acetone, oil and some other materials. This must be taken into account when choosing a decorative finishing method.

Marking methods

There are several types of extruded polystyrene foam Penoplex on sale. To make it more convenient for you to choose the appropriate variety, I will provide the following table.

Marking	Scope of application
Penoplex 31	Used for insulation of industrial containers with various liquids and technical pipelines.
Penoplex 31C	A material that, like the previous one, is not highly durable and can therefore only be used for internal insulation. Unlike the previous one, it has the ability to self-extinguish upon fire.
Penoplex 35	A material of medium strength and density, which is ideal for internal insulation of a loggia. Moreover, it can be installed not only on walls and ceilings, but also on the floor under a cement screed.
Penoplex 45	Very durable and moisture-resistant insulation. Used for external thermal insulation of surfaces that experience large static and dynamic loads. On the loggia it can be used to insulate the floor.
Penoplex 45C	A self-extinguishing type of insulation described in the previous row of the table. It is mainly used for insulation of industrial and commercial facilities.

However, in addition to digital marking, penoplex also has its own names. I will provide a detailed description of each brand in the following table.

Name	Density, kg/cub.m.	Purpose
Wall	25-32	Used for internal and external insulation of enclosing walls, internal partitions and basement floors located above ground level.
Foundation	29-33	It is used for thermal insulation of structures buried in the ground. This type of penoplex is very durable and can withstand the load exerted by the soil after backfilling the pit.
Roof	28-33	Used for insulating attic spaces. Insulation has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, but is fragile, so it is better not to use it in places where it will be subject to constant load.
Comfort	25-35	A material ideal for internal insulation of balconies, loggias and other premises. It differs in that it can be used in rooms with high air humidity.

If you ask my opinion, I would recommend using Penoplex Comfort slabs 5 cm thick to insulate the loggia, laying them in one layer under the screed or in a pre-arranged sheathing.

Basalt wool

Another fairly common insulation for loggias and balconies is mineral wool. There are several varieties of this material, but I prefer the variety that is made from the volcanic mineral basalt. Basalt wool is the most environmentally friendly material with excellent technical characteristics and performance properties.

This insulation was invented in Hawaii, when local residents, after one of the volcanic eruptions, discovered strong and thin fibers in the surrounding area.

Nowadays basalt wool is produced industrially. To do this, gabbro-basalt is collected and melted in a smelting furnace at a temperature of just over 1500 degrees Celsius. The mixture then falls onto the drum, where it is blown with a stream of air and rotates. The result is fibers 7 microns thick and about 5 cm long.

After this, a binder is added to the mass of fibers, after which the mixture is heated to 300 degrees Celsius and pressed into mats, which are used for insulation.

Specifications

I’ll tell you the most important things about this insulation:

1. Thermal conductivity. According to this indicator, although cotton wool does not outperform penoplex, it is not an outsider. The thermal conductivity coefficient ranges from 0.032 to 0.048 W/(K*m).

So that you understand what we are talking about, let me compare, for example, a 10-cm layer of basalt wool with a density of 100 kg per cubic meter with other building materials. To ensure the same level of thermal insulation, it is necessary to erect a wall of ceramic brick 1 m 20 cm thick. You will need even more sand-lime brick - 2 meters. As for the wooden wall, its thickness should be at least 25 cm.

1. Water absorption. Basalt wool has hydrophobic properties. That is, water does not penetrate into the fibers and does not linger in the insulation, changing its technical characteristics.

This, by the way, is the fundamental difference between basalt fiber and glass wool or slag wool. The last two varieties, after getting wet (from contact with water or moisture vapor), increase their thermal conductivity coefficient, that is, they retain heat indoors worse.

So if you are going to insulate the loggia from the inside, you need to take basalt wool, and not glass fibers. Don't be confused. Its water absorption is no more than 2% of its own volume.

1. Vapor permeability. The described insulation, unlike the previous ones, does not prevent air infiltration through the enclosing structures. Moisture, penetrating through the decorative material, is removed outside and does not condense in the insulation layer.

The vapor permeability of the material is about 0.3 mg/(m*h*Pa). That is, on the loggia where you use such insulation, a microclimate that is comfortable for living will independently form, if you look at it from the point of view of air humidity.

1. Fire safety. Due to the fact that basalt, being a volcanic rock, has a very high melting point, the thermal insulation material itself belongs to the class of completely non-combustible materials.

Moreover, it is able to stop the further spread of the flame. The thermal insulation layer loses its integrity at a temperature of at least 1100 degrees Celsius. Therefore, by the way, it is used for insulation of engineering systems and pipelines, the surface of which becomes very hot during operation.

The material fully complies with the requirements of GOST number 30244 and SNiP number 21-01-97. It has no restrictions when insulating residential premises.

1. Soundproofing properties. Unlike expanded polystyrene, basalt wool perfectly absorbs sound waves. This is due to the fact that the air contained inside the insulation is not closed inside the cells, and the fibers themselves are randomly located.

Moreover, cotton wool not only cuts off noise from the street, but also reduces reverberation time. That is, not only the loggia itself is soundproofed, but also the rooms located behind it.

1. Strength. As in all other cases, this parameter depends on the density of basalt wool. Although it is smaller than that of polystyrenes, it is still sufficient for construction work, since some basalt fibers are arranged vertically when forming mats.

As a result, when the insulation layer is deformed by 10%, it shows a compressive strength of 5 to 80 kilopascals. And this figure does not decrease depending on the operating time.

However, you cannot install basalt mats under the floor screed. For insulation, I recommend installing a sheathing, onto which decorative material is then mounted. Although there are some varieties (for example, Dan Floor from Danova) that are specifically designed for insulating floors under cement screed.

1. Biological and chemical activity. The material does not react with chemicals and does not cause corrosion of metal parts. In addition, mold and mildew do not grow inside the insulation layer and on its surface, and insects and rodents do not live.

So you can insulate the loggia at your dacha. Unlike polystyrene foam, which mice love to chew on.

1. Environmental Safety. The insulation is completely safe for the environment and humans, as it is made from a natural mineral. However, the fibers are glued together using phenol, which can be hazardous to health.

But I hasten to reassure the skeptics. All hazardous substances are neutralized by heating at the basalt wool production stage. But even at the stage of manufacturing the material, the emission is no more than 0.05 mg per cubic meter per hour.

In addition, during operation, mineral fibers do not irritate the skin, mucous membranes and respiratory organs of humans.

Disadvantages of the material

So that you don’t get the impression that basalt wool is just a gift of fate for insulating a loggia, I will list the main disadvantages of the material:

• high cost of insulation;
• the presence of seams in the insulating layer, which make it leaky;
• the possibility of formation of basalt dust, which causes inconvenience to installers when working with it;
• high coefficient of vapor permeability, which in some cases is simply not needed.

Summary

Now you have all the necessary information to choose the appropriate insulation for thermal insulation of the loggia. Those who are interested in how to lay the selected insulation with their own hands can watch the video in this article.

In most apartments, balconies require additional insulation, which directly affects the comfort of the entire apartment. With basic finishing, it is very hot on the balcony in the summer, and cold in the winter. To prevent this from happening, you need to know how to insulate a balcony with your own hands. Step-by-step photos and videos from this article will help you carry out insulation correctly at minimal cost.

Where to start insulating a balcony

The method of insulation and the type of materials directly depend on the location of the apartment. If the apartment is on the top floor, the roof often overheats in the summer, creating a strong greenhouse effect, which contributes to overheating of the balcony.

If the balcony was made of low-quality slabs, they crack and allow moisture to pass through.
In any case, the balcony is insulated if it faces north or south. The south side provokes heat on the balcony, and the north side does not warm up in winter.

During thermal insulation, the balcony further improves the quality of sound and moisture protection.
A high-quality insulated balcony allows you to use it at your discretion. There are practically no disadvantages of such thermal insulation, and the advantages are immediately noticeable.

Loggia floor insulation scheme

Before insulating the balcony from the inside, you prepare the surfaces yourself.

Cabinets, shelves, fasteners, cabinets are removed.

The ceiling and walls are cleaned of flaking particles.

If there is floor covering, it is removed.

After this, the integrity of the balcony slabs is checked. If the slabs have many cracks or chips, they need to be removed.

These areas are then covered with cement mortar.

The end result is a rough ceiling, walls and floor that are ready for further insulation.

In some cases, finishing plastering is carried out before insulation. This is necessary if the surfaces interfere with the installation of insulation and have uneven surfaces.

Photo of a balcony with foam insulation

Before insulation, the balcony must be glazed. The best option for glazing a balcony is a double-glazed window with argon filling. In severe frosts, it is better to install three-chamber double-glazed windows.

Step-by-step instructions for insulating a balcony

Insulating a loggia is divided into several steps:

Step 1. After installing the windows, all cracks are filled with sealant and foam for installation. If there are large potholes or gaps, they need to be repaired.
Step 2. For waterproofing balcony surfaces, roofing felt, bitumen mastic, and deep-penetrating liquid compounds are used.
Step 3. The insulation material is fixed, and then the vapor barrier.

Step 4. The balcony is decorated with your own hands.

Step 5. The flooring is being installed.

How to insulate a loggia with penoplex

Penoplex insulation allows you to protect the balcony from cold and dampness. This material is resistant to mechanical stress. The side part can be ribbed or smooth. The first option allows you to more effectively fix the plates to each other.

Photo of penoplex insulation

If the average annual temperature is low, material up to 7.5 centimeters thick is used. If in winter the temperature does not drop below -25 degrees, a material 4 centimeters thick is needed.

Methods of fastening penoplex depend on the further finishing. When finishing from plasterboard, lining, fastening is done using mushroom dowels. If the surface is plastered, then the penoplex is glued.

To insulate a balcony with penoplex, follow these steps:

• The slabs are fixed on the primed surface.
• Penoplex is attached using the tongue-in-groove or joint-in-joint method.
• The slabs are fixed on top with special dowels.
• The joints are sealed with tape.
• The joints are filled with installation foam (composition without toluene).
• On top there is a vapor barrier, sheathing and surface finishing.
• Penoplex insulation can be done after installation of the sheathing.
• The insulation is placed between the bars.

Interesting article: how to insulate a dacha with your own hands

Do-it-yourself insulation of a balcony with polystyrene foam

Penoplex is durable, but if this indicator does not play an important role, then you can use standard polystyrene foam to insulate a balcony or loggia.

Photo of foam insulation

Polystyrene foam for insulation is produced in the form of sheets with a thickness of 5 to 15 centimeters.
To insulate the balcony from the inside, sheets 10 centimeters thick are used.

Before insulation, the surfaces are coated with a primer with deeply penetrating properties.

Glue is applied to the sheets.

The sheet is pressed to the surface and fixed with plastic dowels.

The joints are sealed with foam for installation.

The seams are closed with tape.

A reinforced fiberglass mesh is attached to the glue.

Any type of finishing can be done on top of the mesh.

Polystyrene foam can be installed using the principle of polystyrene foam in the sheathing.

How to insulate a balcony with clapboard yourself

Insulation with clapboard cannot be of high quality if the balcony does not have sufficient heating. If there is no heating, then basic insulating material is placed under the lining.

Photo of lining on the balcony

To install the lining, a wooden sheathing is required, which is mounted horizontally. Foam plastic or penoplex is fixed in the gaps. A lining is installed on top of the insulation. It is fixed to the sheathing. Such insulation can be done on a durable, reliable balcony.

Mineral wool for insulating balconies

Insulating a balcony with mineral wool makes the structure lighter. This material allows you to protect the surface from cold, heat and moisture. Poor installation reduces the properties of the insulation by almost half.

Photo of mineral wool

The sheathing is placed on the surface coated with a waterproofing compound. The plates are fixed with special glue and dowels. In the corners, fixation is done with extreme caution. The insulated surface is covered with a vapor barrier.

Balcony insulation scheme

After which the surface is ready for finishing. When installing any insulation material, compliance with certain rules guarantees high-quality insulation of the balcony. Before you start work, carefully study the features of the selected material and how to install it correctly. Remember that the heat in your apartment or country house directly depends on the insulation.

How to insulate a balcony with your own hands Now you know and can choose the appropriate material for thermal insulation work. Step by step photo– a good helper during DIY repairs. If you learn how to properly insulate a loggia at home, you will have a new profession that is in demand today.

The best way to insulate a loggia from the inside: step-by-step instructions and advice = professionals. From a constructive point of view, a loggia is ideal for becoming an extension of an apartment or even a full-fledged room. To achieve this, a series of construction and installation works on glazing should be carried out, and.

As a result, you can get a spacious living room, a cozy relaxation room, or even additional space for a work area.

If you do not take into account important factors when choosing materials, the result of insulation may not turn out as desired, so let's look at which materials are better for insulating a loggia, and what technology should be used to carry out the insulation.

Factor No. 1 – purpose of the room

Factor No. 2 – dimensions of the loggia

Since if it is small in size, then you will need to give preference to insulation, which, despite its small thickness, has a high thermal protection index. In this case, you will lose minimal usable space.

Factor No. 3 – material throughput

Keep in mind that each material from which indoor walls are made has the ability to allow accumulated moisture to pass through. This is water vapor that collides with cold air from the street and settles on the wall outside. If you have insulated the wall, it means that the main insulation will be covered, and this will lead to further rotting and a decrease in properties. It is important to ensure that steam simply does not reach the insulation.

Insulation materials

On the construction market you can find a lot of materials to insulate a loggia, the characteristics of which are important to familiarize yourself with in advance before starting construction and installation work. What needs to be done?

Mineral wool, as well as materials based on cotton wool or basalt fiber, are quite popular materials with excellent thermal insulation, fire resistance, etc. When used, these materials perfectly retain their structure, appearance and shape, and are also not susceptible to the negative effects of the environment and microorganisms, but the downside is that they are highly hygroscopic. Due to such water permeability, careful waterproofing is necessary. The disadvantages include the need to create and the thickness of the material, which has a bad effect on the usable area.

What is the best way to insulate a loggia from the inside? Polystyrene foam, which is obtained from polystyrene. It is not in vain that it is chosen, since it is durable, has a low level of thermal conductivity, has a low level of hydrophobicity and is resistant to microorganisms. For insulation from the inside, it is recommended to use self-extinguishing foam, since the usual type is highly flammable.

The following materials are also suitable as insulation for the loggia: those made of extruded polyethylene and covered with foil on one or both sides: Izocom, Izolon, Penofol, Tepofol. Among the listed heat insulators, this type has the highest thermal conductivity, so it is used as an independent material for insulation only for “cold” insulation or as a reflective material on internal walls.

But its small thickness and high level of vapor permeability makes it possible to use it as a second layer of insulation.

I would like to talk separately about the material that is produced in the form of slabs or rolls. This is polyurethane foam - it is sprayed like foam and creates a thermal insulation surface. It surpasses all the materials described above in terms of technical indicators. But it also has a drawback - a high level of flammability with the release of toxic agents. Manual installation is not possible, as a special spraying installation is required.

Stages of insulating a loggia

When you have finally decided how best to insulate the loggia, you need to carry out a number of preparatory work:

• Seal all gaps between the walls and the frame/parapet, glazing.
• Preparation of the necessary surfaces.

For glazing, you can safely choose double-glazed windows with a frame made of any material. They must be functional, must have a ventilation mode and be relatively light so that you do not create additional load on the floor slab. The ceiling, walls and floor must be cleared of debris and other contaminants in advance, and the integrity of the surface must be checked. If you find any gaps between the tiles or tiles, they need to be filled with sealant and, if necessary, leveled.

In addition to these procedures, it is definitely worth carrying out waterproofing. For this, several materials are used, but sometimes only one, since waterproofing is carried out for parapets and external walls, frames, ceilings and floors.

Such materials include:

• Penofol.
• Folgoizolon.
• Painting and coating substances.
• Penetrating waterproofing.

Roll-type waterproofing should be glued overlapping to the base, and the resulting seams should be sealed with sealant, soldered or sealed with special tape. If you use foil insulation for the coating, you get an additional layer of thermal insulation. When using painting, coating and penetrating types of insulation, it will be justified if you are insulating in hard-to-reach places and where the room size is very small.

Once you have decided on the material for waterproofing and are ready to insulate the loggia, you can begin the insulation itself. There are two ways:

• You can make a continuous layer of material for thermal insulation and this way you will minimize any chances of steam penetrating into the insulation.
• Installation of insulation and coating.

Loggia insulation methods

Method No. 1

In this option we will use materials with a low level of vapor permeability - expanded polystyrene and polystyrene. The thickness of such materials must be such that when created, the required resistance to the passage of steam is obtained, and thermal insulation is maintained.

When using conventional tile insulation, the installation steps are as follows:

Reinforcement can be carried out in 4 stages:

1. The tiles are treated with coarse sandpaper.
2. The slabs are covered with glue; its thickness should not exceed 0.3 cm.
3. A mesh with 5*5 cells is pressed into the glue.
4. You need to apply another layer of glue on top of the mesh.

You can also use rolled thermal insulation materials, and the installation technology will be the same. In this case, you should cut pieces of insulation to the size you need. After this, we get a surface that is completely ready for painting or plastering, as well as for pasting with liquid wallpaper and other decorative materials.

Method No. 2

In this method there are no restrictions on choice, since thanks to the technology it is possible to create a vapor barrier between the finishing and the insulation. This type of insulation is carried out with the help of arranging a wooden sheathing (but it is possible without it), but in this case, to attach the lining and sheathing, a vapor barrier is placed on top.

The sheathing is made from wooden beams, but you can also use metal fasteners or a profile for this. If you use metal parts, be sure to lay insulation under them.

The width and height of the sheathing depend on what material was chosen for insulating the loggia:

• If you use mineral wool, choose beams whose width is smaller than the mats, so that the installation is carried out spread apart.
• Ideally, you need to lay several layers of wool so that the beams are covered, and then they will not act as conductors of cold.
• When using polystyrene foam, all dimensions of sheets and beams must be the same.

After installation is completed, we overlap the vapor barrier material. It could also be simple polyethylene or a membrane. All joints should be taped with tape. If you did the insulation without lathing, then you should attach profiles on top to install the finishing.

Avoid These 5 Mistakes When Planning Your Loggia

And as a reminder, we want to provide a list of common mistakes that many people have made. We will help you find out exactly what mistakes are made and how to avoid them.

Mistake #1: redevelopment without permission

People often think about how best to insulate a loggia, but few people think about the fact that your decision to make one large room out of a loggia and a room must be registered by BTI representatives. This measure is necessary so that you do not have problems in the future with the sale of an apartment when inconsistencies are found with the real apartment and the technical passport.

Advice: you can glaze the balcony using sliding double-glazed windows on an aluminum profile and thus equip an unheated summer loggia. This measure will give you extra space, there will be fewer drafts, and you will not need to take permission for redevelopment.

Mistake #2: moving the radiator to the loggia

If you have permission to re-equipment, then you are unlikely to decide to take such a step, but just in case, it is worth warning that removing radiator pipes and heating equipment is unacceptable. There is too much heat loss on the loggia, and sometimes even with insulation the pipes freeze, which causes accidents. In addition, because of this you will have to pay extra for heating.

Advice: for heating, use a heated floor system or oil as an alternative - it can be hung on the wall or used as a regular radiator.

Mistake #3: dimensionless glass

This design solution looks great - when closed it is a smooth surface, and sometimes it is not disturbed even by edges. In addition, such sashes are convenient to assemble into an accordion, and this will not take up the space of the loggia. But for insulated rooms this is not an option - single glazing and cracks will not protect against the cold. In addition, dirt and dust quickly accumulate on them, as well as fingerprints, and there is no way to attach a mosquito net.

Advice: Don’t stop at just this option – we advise you to take a closer look at the latest developments like thermally insulated lift-and-slide windows. But the ideal choice would be a PVC double-glazed window with hinged sashes. They do not take up as much space as they seem; it is possible to open them for ventilation, as well as open them to clean the glass surface from the outside.

Mistake #4: glazing on brackets

To increase the area, or more precisely, the volume of the loggia, apartment owners often want to build a frame for glazing (extended by a couple of tens of cm). This is how a canopy is made along the upper perimeter, on which snow will accumulate, and in bad weather the sound of rain will be heard. The main thing is that a glass build-up will form on the facade, which will spoil the appearance of the structure.

Advice: an alternative option is available only if the façade is monotonous. If all the balconies in your house are open, you should discard this idea, or even simple glazing. You can also decorate your loggia with greenery.

Mistake #5: Overusing sealant

A real perfectionist's nightmare is seams with bubbling foam. They are unsightly, and they can also ruin the microclimate of your apartment - the fact is that the foam of polyurethane sealants cannot withstand exposure to sunlight and moisture, and without protection it will quickly collapse, thereby opening all sealed cracks and gaps to street noise and drafts.

Advice: The “foamed” seams should be treated well and the excess should be cut off, and then sanded with fine sandpaper and covered with a layer of putty or acrylate paint (ideally, both options should be used). If you have neither paint nor putty on hand, use mounting tape, but then in the future paint will not adhere well to such seams.

Results

As you can see, the process of insulating the loggia itself is not complicated. It is very important to follow the instructions and recommendations that will help you create a warm loggia.

The balcony is the part of the building that needs insulation more than others, because not all residents use it only as a warehouse. Increasingly, people are starting to equip their balconies as additional space, for example, a personal office. For these and not only reasons, it is necessary to properly insulate the structure from the inside.

In this article we will look at three methods using different materials.

Stages of insulating a balcony

Insulation of the balcony from the inside is carried out in the following sequence:

No. 1. Insulating a balcony with polystyrene foam: sequence of work

If you chose polystyrene foam as insulation, then the sequence of work is as follows:

No. 2. Insulating a balcony with penoplex (video)

Penoplex is actively used for insulating rooms. You can attach it to the surface using bitumen mastics, polyurethane foam or dowel mushrooms. Consider the option of mounting on polyurethane foam.

Mounting on polyurethane foam

So. Waterproofing is done. Polyurethane foam is applied around the perimeter of the insulation board. It's enough. After application, wait a couple of seconds and fix the slab on the insulated surface. The next slab is laid end to end with the first one. After two days, you can additionally secure the slabs with dowels. Then the whole process is repeated in a similar order as described above. Finish at your own discretion. You can sew up the insulation boards with plastic panels; they look very original.

Additionally, we secure the slabs with dowels

Advice. If the balcony is intended only for storing essential items, then it is enough to insulate the walls in one layer. If you need to insulate more thoroughly, it is better to lay the insulation in two layers.

The process of insulating the balcony is completed. As you can see, there is nothing complicated about it. If you are just planning to do this work, then our article will help you. If you have already done this, then share your methods with readers in the comments.

No. 3. Balcony insulation with mineral wool: technology features

Insulation of balconies with mineral wool is carried out under the constructed sheathing. A lining is mounted on top of the frame - wooden or plastic panels with special grooves.

A well-known fact is the construction recommendation to carry out insulation from the outside of the building. However, when insulating balconies and loggias, it is often not possible to place the insulation material outside. The internal placement of the insulation layer requires certain calculations, adherence to technology and the correct selection of materials, so that in the future the work performed does not lead to wetness of the walls, corners and ceilings inside the external structure.

Balcony insulation with mineral wool

What materials can be used to insulate a balcony? What finishing will reliably protect the insulation from the internal space and create an aesthetic appearance of the internal walls?

In modern technologies for insulating open suspended structures (balconies), four types of materials are used as internal insulation: polystyrene foam, penoplex, penofol and mineral wool. Let's consider the technological features of installation and types of cotton insulation used for thermal insulation of balconies.

Types of mineral wool

Depending on the raw materials used in production, there are three main types of mineral wool: glass, stone and slag. All three materials are suitable for insulation work.

Mineral wool is a soft material that does not have rigid dimensions. It is supplied in the form of rolls (they are unwound into a track before laying) or soft mats. Sometimes one side of the insulation is covered with aluminum foil to enhance the thermal insulation properties.

Photo: mineral wool with aluminum foil

Important! When installing, the foil should be located on the side of the room. The internal heat of the room will be reflected from the foil surface back into the living space.

The thickness of the mineral wool layer determines the quality of insulation and varies in size from 20 to 200 mm.

Mineral wool installation technology

Any type of mineral wool is mounted under the frame, located between the outer wall (ceiling, roof) and the frame supports. Wooden sticks or metal profiles can be used as supports, depending on what kind of cladding will be used in the future.

Lathing made of metal profiles

When using lining for finishing wall cladding, the lathing frame is constructed of wood. Wooden sticks with a cross section of 150 - 250 cm 2 are installed, while you can save a little internal space on the balcony by installing sticks with a rectangular rather than square section (30 × 50 cm 2, 30 × 70 cm 2).

Wooden sheathing

All racks and horizontal lathing strips are installed below the level. The vertical posts are fastened to the concrete surface of the ceiling and floor using anchor bolts. Horizontal ones are attached to the vertical supports. If the future cladding is made of plastic lining, the horizontal strips are attached at three levels: knee, hip, shoulder.

Laying insulation

Note: Before installing the insulation, the walls are treated with an antifungal primer.

For internal insulation with mineral wool, it is mandatory to install a vapor barrier. The cotton material itself is breathable; it easily allows gaseous substances (air, steam) to pass through.

The insulation must be protected from getting wet

Considering that with internal insulation, the point of condensation formation moves into the insulation, it is necessary to limit the penetration of steam or air from living quarters into the construction wool. For these purposes, a vapor barrier film is laid between the mineral wool and the finishing.

Interior decoration

Purpose of interior decoration:

• Close the heat insulation material from the living space.
• Create an aesthetically pleasing interior covering for the walls of a room or insulated loggia.

There are various materials for interior decoration of balconies (plasterboard, wood, plastic, plaster). With a previously constructed lattice frame, finishing is done by hanging various types of panels: plywood, MDF, wood or plastic lining.

Wood-look plastic lining

The final finishing with clapboard is carried out by covering the walls with wooden (or plastic) clapboard panels, which have special grooves around the perimeter for ease of installation and tightness of fastening. At the same time, plastic lining is often a cheaper imitation of a wooden covering laid on the inner walls of a balcony (or loggia). It is characterized by less strength and rigidity.

Plastic panels are easy to install

Wooden car panels are reliable, environmentally friendly, and have sufficient rigidity for flooring. The ceiling of the loggia can be covered with plastic clapboard; the floor is covered with wood; as for the walls, both types of wagon covering (plastic and wood) can be used here.

Wooden clapboard finishing

After finishing, the inner surface is treated with a composition that protects the wood from moisture and destruction.