How to properly install heating radiators in an apartment. How to install heating batteries in an apartment with your own hands? Installing a heating battery with your own hands - step-by-step instructions

All modern radiators are designed in such a way that any owner can connect them. This process must be carried out in compliance with the requirements of SNIP.

Connection methods

According to SNIP, the installation of heating batteries may include the following connection methods:

1. Lateral.
2. Lower.
3. Diagonal.

The first method is the most common. It involves connecting the inlet and outlet pipes to the same side of the radiator. The inlet pipe is connected to the fitting located at the top, and the outlet pipe to the lower fitting.

This connection method requires a large center distance, that is, the distance between two fittings. If it is small, the sections at the other end of the battery will not heat up well. When installing a radiator with big amount sections to avoid the problem of poor heating last sections you need to use a water flow extension.

The lower connection involves connecting the inlet pipe to the lower fitting located at one end of the radiator, and the outlet pipe to the lower fitting located at the opposite end.

There are radiators in which both fittings are located in the bottom and are vertical. In this case, always carry out bottom connection. It is not recommended to do this, because heat transfer is reduced by 5-15%.

The diagonal method is the most advantageous view connections. This installation of the heating battery allows for minimal losses. It involves connecting the inlet pipe to the fitting located at the top and connecting the outlet pipe to the fitting located on the lower contour of the other end.

The connection can also be:

1. Consistent.
2. Parallel.

In the first case, the batteries are connected so that the outlet pipe of one of them is the inlet pipe for the other. As a result, closed system, and in the absence of a bypass, repairing one of the radiators will require shutting down the entire system. is a tube that connects the inlet and outlet pipes near each radiator. When water is supplied to the working battery, the bypass does not create any obstacles. If it is necessary to repair any radiator, they independently close the shut-off valves and the water moves through the bypass.

Read also: Selection and installation of brackets for radiators

Parallel connection consists of a branch from main pipe separate pipes for each heating device.

Connection diagram

Any connection method can be used in a one- and two-pipe heating system.
In the first type, the batteries are installed so that they form a single chain through which water flows from top to bottom. It is not profitable to install such a heating system in a private house, since the first radiators will heat up very well, but the rest will heat up poorly. This occurs due to the flow of cooled coolant to the last devices.

The two-pipe system is more profitable because hot water comes from one riser, and the cooled water flows into another. This type of heating network piping is carried out in all private houses, because it allows you to maintain a constant specified thermal regime and makes it possible to control this regime.

Installation Rules

Installation must comply with the following rules:

1. The position of the radiator should always be horizontal without any distortions.
2. The top grille and the window sill should be separated by 5-10 cm. This space is necessary for the movement of heated air, as well as maintaining high heat transfer.
3. The bottom panel and the floor should be separated by 8-12 cm.
4. Distance between back wall radiator and the wall should be 2-5 cm. This norm should also be maintained if reflective thermal insulation is installed behind the radiator.
5. Tighten the valve with a force of no more than 12 kg. Since it is very difficult to determine such a force by feel, it is recommended to use a torque wrench. It will allow you to properly tighten all the valves without over-tightening or under-tightening.

Installation features

The sequence is simple:

1. Removing the old radiator.
2. Determining the location of the fasteners for new battery and performing markings.
3. Fixing the brackets.
4. Preparing and hanging the radiator.
5. Installation of shut-off valves.
6. Connecting pipes.

Removing the old radiator and fixing the mount

If the heating system is being created in a new house, then you immediately need to start marking the places where the brackets will be fixed. If the housing is old, you will have to dismantle it.

Read also: We disassemble and clean the cast iron battery

It is easy to do when there is a shut-off valves(ball or stopcock). They are blocked and the battery is unscrewed. If they are not there, you need to shut off the riser and drain the water.

It happens that they shut off and drain water from the wrong riser. Then, when cutting pipes (if you plan to replace them) or while unscrewing nuts, you may encounter difficulties. The first situation can be dangerous, since the pipe is cut with a grinder connected to the mains. Contact of water with electricity results in tragic consequences. Therefore, before cutting, it is worth making a hole in the outlet pipe with an autogenous gun.
You need to stock up on a container to collect water.

If you install a new radiator, you need to change the position suitable pipes. They should be opposite the contours. They are placed at an angle. In this case, the inlet pipe is tilted towards the radiator, and the outlet pipe away from it. The distance between them at the radiator should be less than near the riser. This will allow air to flow in and out of the radiator easily. The airiness of the battery will be minimal.

The brackets are usually fixed with bolts secured in dowels. Holes are drilled in the wall for them. The brackets are:

1. Wall-mounted.
2. Floor-standing.

Most of the wall ones cannot change the height. There are those that consist of a base, a moving part and a bolt. By rotating the bolt, you can lift moving part up or down. The curved end of the bracket should be positioned so that it fits between the battery sections (when installing sectional batteries). Panel radiators have special fastenings, and it is in them that the brackets should fit.

Floor brackets can also be fixed or movable.

Wall brackets are positioned so that they are on the same horizontal line. Check horizontality with a level.

Radiator preparation

In many ways, this process concerns bimetallic and aluminum sectional radiators. They are designed so that two vertical holes have a right-hand thread, and the other two have a left-hand thread.

High-quality heating is the key to a favorable climate in the house and the absence of cold weather even in the most severe frosts. Therefore, if you have an old and ineffective radiator in your apartment or cottage, then it is worth replacing it. At first glance, this seems very difficult work, accessible only to specialized specialists with significant experience. But with the right attitude and the availability of some tools, installing heating radiators with your own hands does not pose a serious problem.

Rules for battery location and connection diagrams

In addition to the characteristics, it is very important, one of the factors affecting the efficiency heating system, is a choice right place for product location. True, in most cases it is predetermined in advance - the new battery will most likely stand in place of the old cast-iron one, which has been there since the building was built. But still, here are some recommendations for proper placement of the radiator.

Firstly, it is advisable to place the battery under a window. The fact is that it is a “bridge” through which the cold from the street enters the apartment or cottage. The presence of a radiator under the window forms a kind of “ thermal curtain", interfering with the process described above. In this case, the battery should be placed strictly in the middle of the window, and, preferably, occupy up to 70-80% of its width. You can see what it is and how to install it on our page.

Secondly, there should be at least 80-120 mm from the floor to the radiator. If it is less, it will be inconvenient to clean under the battery; a huge amount of dust and debris will accumulate there. And if the radiator is located higher, a certain amount of cold air will collect under it, which requires heating and, as a result, worsens the operation of the heating system. In addition, too short a distance to the windowsill negatively affects the battery efficiency.

Thirdly, a distance of 2.5-3 cm is allowed between the back of the radiator and the wall. If it is less, the processes of convection and flow movement are disrupted warm air, and, as a result, the battery works less efficiently and wastes some of the heat.

Table. Standard schemes connecting heating batteries.

Video - Replacing heating radiators in winter

Installing a heating battery with your own hands - step-by-step instructions

Let's consider the process of installing a bimetallic battery connected laterally to a single-pipe heating system. It is worth saying that in in this case the work was carried out in a building where the temperature in the radiators was relatively low, therefore the liner and bypass were made of metal-plastic pipes. Before the beginning self-installation batteries, familiarize yourself with the design and characteristics of the heating system in your home. Perhaps for your apartment or cottage connecting pipes will need to be made from materials with greater resistance to high temperatures.

Let's divide the process of installing a heating battery with our own hands into several separate stages:

• dismantling the old radiator;
• installation of a new bypass and shut-off valves;
• installing the battery and connecting it to the connection.

Preparing for work. Removing the old battery

Do-it-yourself installation of a heating battery begins with preparing the tools and dismantling the old radiator. IN in this example we will be talking about a standard cast iron product that still heats many apartments. How to install , You can read in our article.

Step 1. Bring home a new battery. Unpack it, check if everything you bought is there. Also inspect the radiator itself to see if it has any damage or defects.

Step 2. Cut the packaging of the new battery into two equal parts. Use one as a backing for the radiator - this way you won’t scratch it. flooring. Place the second part of the package behind the heating riser - when dismantling using a grinder, a sheet of cardboard will protect the wall from contamination.

Step 3. Prepare everything you need to dismantle the old and install a new radiator - fittings, taps, pipes, tools. Determine for yourself what should be located where - searching for something necessary for installation, but lost in the clutter, can significantly slow down the work of replacing the battery.

Step 4. Remove the three-way valve connecting the heating riser, bypass and supply line. First, loosen it up. wrench. If water starts to drip, immediately screw everything back in - most likely, the riser was not closed properly. And if everything is in order, continue working on dismantling the crane.

Step 5. Next, disconnect old battery and liner from the riser. First, unscrew the nut on the thread strip. Then determine how far this thread can be cut so that you can then mount a tee connecting the inlet, bypass and riser without any problems.

Advice! In some cases old paint applied to the nut and the connection of the riser with the bypass and liner may interfere with operation. You can remove it using regular knife with a retractable blade or metal brush.

Step 6. Remove the battery from its mounts.

Step 7 Using a grinder, trim according to the previously determined mark on the threads connecting the heating riser to the battery.

Step 8 Remove the old battery and take it somewhere where it will not be in the way further work. Considering the high mass cast iron radiator, do this in pairs with someone if possible.

Step 9 Remove the old battery mounts from the wall. If they hold particularly tightly, use a hammer and chisel.

Rules for successfully installing batteries in the house. Choosing the right power heating radiators we often do not get the desired warmth in the house. What does their effective work depend on?

In order for the heating system to work correctly and efficiently, radiators must be correctly placed and mounted. Regardless of what heating system you use (autonomous or centralized), the rules for installing radiators are the same.

Location of heating radiators

The radiator must be installed so that it works with 100% efficiency. The best option installations - under the window. The greatest heat loss in the house occurs through the windows. Location heating batteries under the window prevents heat loss and condensation on the glass. At large windows use radiators 30 cm high, or place them directly next to the window.

The recommended distance from the floor to the radiator is 5-10 cm, from the radiator to the window sill - 3-5 cm. From the wall to the back surface of the radiator 3-5 cm. If you plan to stick some kind of heat-reflecting material behind the radiator, you can reduce the distance between wall and battery to a minimum (3 cm).

The radiator must be installed strictly at right angles, both horizontally and vertically - any deviation leads to air accumulation, which leads to corrosion of the radiator.

Pipes in the heating system

Advice for those who have central heating in their home. Typically for heating systems apartment buildings metal pipes are used.

If the apartment has a metal riser pipe, you cannot switch to polypropylene heating pipes!

IN central heating Changes in coolant temperature and pressure often occur - apartment wiring and radiators will fail within a year.

Also, never use unreinforced polypropylene pipes– they are designed for use for water supply and are destroyed at a coolant temperature of +90°C.

Fittings for heating radiators

To make you feel comfortable during heating season It is necessary to install thermostats on each radiator. This way you can save money by shutting off radiators in unused rooms and control the temperature in the house. You can purchase programmable thermostats - they will turn the radiator off/on, maintaining the required temperature.

Installation of thermostats on each radiator is possible in two-pipe system heating. In single-pipe (in multi-apartment and high-rise buildings) The thermoregulation system is equipped with a jumper in front of the battery - a bypass. A bypass is a pipe installed perpendicularly between the supply and return. The bypass pipe must be smaller in diameter than the pipes used in the heating system wiring.

A Mayevsky valve is also installed on the battery - a valve for removing air from the system. These elements simplify radiator management and facilitate their repair.

Obstacles to room heating

Effective heat transfer is also affected by barriers that we ourselves create. This may include long curtains(70% of heat loss), protruding window sills (10%) and decorative grilles. Thick floor-length curtains prevent air circulation in the room - you simply heat the window and the flowers on the windowsill. The same effect, but with less consequences, is created by a window sill that completely covers the battery on top. A dense decorative screen (especially with a top panel) and placement of the battery in a niche reduce the efficiency of the radiator by 20%.

Correct installation heating radiators– one of the main components of the high-quality functioning of the heating system as a whole. You should not be led by savings at the expense of comfortable heating.

Any heating system is a rather complex “organism” in which each of the “organs” performs a strictly assigned role. And one of the most important elements are heat exchange devices - they are entrusted with the final task of transferring thermal energy to the premises of the house. In this capacity, conventional radiators, open or open convectors can act hidden installation, water underfloor heating systems that are gaining popularity are pipe circuits laid in accordance with certain rules.

You might be interested in information about what it is

This publication will focus on heating radiators. Let us not be distracted by their diversity, structure and specifications: on our portal there is enough comprehensive information on these topics. Now we are interested in another set of questions: connecting heating radiators, wiring diagrams, installation of batteries. Correct installation of heat exchange devices, rational use embedded in them technical capabilities- This is the key to the efficiency of the entire heating system. Even the most expensive modern radiator will have low returns if you do not listen to the recommendations for its installation.

What should you consider when choosing radiator piping schemes?

If you take a simplified look at most heating radiators, their hydraulic design is a fairly simple, understandable diagram. These are two horizontal collectors that are connected to each other by vertical jumper channels through which the coolant moves. This entire system is either made of metal, providing the necessary high heat transfer (shining example– ), or “dressed” in a special casing, the design of which provides for a maximum area of ​​contact with air (for example, bimetallic radiators).

1 – Upper collector;

2 – Lower collector;

3 – Vertical channels in radiator sections;

4 – Heat exchange housing (casing) of the radiator.

Both collectors, upper and lower, have outputs on both sides (respectively, in the diagram, the upper pair B1-B2, and the lower pair B3-B4). It is clear that when connecting a radiator to the pipes of the heating circuit, only two of the four outputs are connected, and the remaining two are muted. And from the connection diagram, that is, from relative position The coolant supply pipes and the return outlet largely depend on the operating efficiency of the installed battery.

And first of all, when planning the installation of radiators, the owner must understand exactly what kind of heating system is operating or will be created in his house or apartment. That is, he must clearly understand where the coolant is coming from and in which direction its flow is directed.

Single pipe heating system

In multi-storey buildings, a single-pipe system is most often used. In this scheme, each radiator is, as it were, inserted into a “break” in a single pipe through which both the coolant is supplied and its discharge towards the “return” is carried out.

The coolant passes sequentially through all the radiators installed in the riser, gradually wasting heat. It is clear that in the initial section of the riser its temperature will always be higher - this must also be taken into account when planning the installation of radiators.

One more point is important here. Such a one-pipe system apartment building can be organized according to the principle of top and bottom feed.

• On the left (item 1) the top supply is shown - the coolant is transferred through a straight pipe to the top point of the riser, and then sequentially passes through all the radiators on the floors. This means that the flow direction is from top to bottom.
• To simplify the system and save Supplies Another scheme is often organized - with bottom feed (item 2). In this case, on the ascending top floor The radiators are installed in the same series on the pipe as on the one going down. This means that the direction of coolant flow in these “branches” of one loop changes to the opposite. Obviously, the temperature difference in the first and last radiator of such a circuit will be even more noticeable.

It is important to understand this issue - on which pipe of such a single-pipe system is your radiator installed - the optimal insertion pattern depends on the direction of flow.

A mandatory condition for piping a radiator in a single-pipe riser is a bypass

The name “bypass,” which is not entirely clear to some, refers to a jumper connecting the pipes connecting the radiator to the riser in a single-pipe system. Why it is needed, what rules are followed when installing it - read in the special publication of our portal.

The single-pipe system is widely used in private one-story houses, at least for reasons of saving materials for its installation. In this case, it is easier for the owner to understand the direction of the coolant flow, that is, from which side it will supply to the radiator, and from which side it will exit.

Advantages and disadvantages of a single-pipe heating system

While attractive due to the simplicity of its design, such a system is still somewhat alarming due to the difficulty of ensuring uniform heating across different radiators house wiring. Read what is important to know about how to install it yourself in a separate publication on our portal.

Two-pipe system

Already based on the name, it becomes clear that each of the radiators in such a scheme “rests” on two pipes – separately on the supply and “return”.

If you look at the two-pipe wiring diagram in a multi-story building, you will immediately see the differences.

It is clear that the dependence of the heating temperature on the location of the radiator in the heating system is minimized. The direction of flow is determined only by the relative position of the pipes embedded in the risers. The only thing you need to know is which specific riser serves as the supply and which is the “return” - but this, as a rule, is easily determined even by the temperature of the pipe.

Some apartment residents may be misled by the presence of two risers, in which the system will not cease to be one-pipe. Look at the illustration below:

On the left, although there seem to be two risers, a single-pipe system is shown. The coolant is simply supplied from the top through one pipe. But on the right is a typical case of two different risers - supply and return.

Dependence of the efficiency of the radiator on the scheme of its insertion into the system

Why was all that said? what is posted in the previous sections of the article? But the fact is that the heat transfer of the heating radiator very seriously depends on the relative position of the supply and return pipes.

Scheme of inserting a radiator into the circuit	Coolant flow direction
Diagonal two-way radiator connection, with supply from above
This scheme is considered the most effective. In principle, it is this that is taken as the basis when calculating the heat transfer of a specific radiator model, that is, the power of the battery for such a connection is taken as one. The coolant, without encountering any resistance, completely passes through the upper collector, through all vertical channels, ensuring maximum heat transfer. The entire radiator heats up evenly over its entire area.
This type of scheme is one of the most common in heating systems. multi-storey buildings, as the most compact in conditions of vertical risers. It is used on risers with a top supply of coolant, as well as on return and downstream ones - with a bottom supply. Quite effective for small radiators. However, if the number of sections is large, then heating may be uneven. Kinetic energy the flow becomes insufficient to distribute the coolant to the very end of the upper supply manifold - the liquid tends to pass along the path of least resistance, that is, through the vertical channels closest to the entrance. Thus, in the part of the battery farthest from the entrance, stagnant zones cannot be excluded, which will be much colder than the opposite ones. When calculating the system, it is usually assumed that even with optimal length batteries, its overall heat transfer efficiency is reduced by 3÷5%. Well, when long radiators such a scheme becomes ineffective or will require some optimization (this will be discussed below) /
One-sided radiator connection with top supply
The scheme is similar to the previous one, and in many ways repeats and even enhances its inherent disadvantages. Used in the same risers single pipe systems, but only in schemes with bottom supply - on the rising pipe, so the coolant is supplied from below. Losses in total heat transfer with such a connection can be even higher - up to 20÷22%. This is due to the fact that the closure of the coolant movement through the nearby vertical channels will also be facilitated by the difference in density - the hot liquid tends upward, and therefore passes more difficultly to the remote edge of the lower supply manifold of the radiator. Sometimes this is the only connection option. The losses are compensated to some extent by the fact that in the rising pipe the overall temperature level of the coolant is always higher. The scheme can be optimized by installing special devices.
Two-way connection with bottom connection of both connections
The bottom circuit, or as it is often called the “saddle” connection, is extremely popular in autonomous systems private houses due to wide possibilities hide pipes heating circuit under decorative surface floors or make them as invisible as possible. However, in terms of heat transfer, such a scheme is far from optimal, and possible efficiency losses are estimated at 10–15%. The most accessible path for the coolant in this case is the lower collector, and distribution through vertical channels is largely due to the difference in density. As a result, the upper part of the heating battery can warm up significantly less than the lower part. There are certain methods and means to reduce this disadvantage to a minimum.
Diagonal two-way radiator connection, with supply from below
Despite the apparent similarity with the first, most optimal scheme, the difference between them is very big. Efficiency losses with such a connection reach up to 20%. This is explained quite simply. The coolant has no incentive to freely penetrate into the far section of the lower supply manifold of the radiator - due to the difference in density, it selects the vertical channels closest to the entrance to the battery. As a result, with the top heated sufficiently evenly, stagnation very often forms in the lower corner opposite the one I enter, that is, the temperature of the battery surface in this area will be lower. Such a scheme is used extremely rarely in practice - it is even difficult to imagine a situation when it is absolutely necessary to resort to it, rejecting other, more optimal solutions.

The table deliberately does not mention the following one-way connection batteries This is a controversial issue, as many radiators that offer the possibility of such an insertion have special adapters that essentially turn the bottom connection into one of the options discussed in the table. In addition, even for ordinary radiators, you can purchase additional equipment, in which the lower one-sided connection will be structurally modified to another, more optimal option.

It must be said that there are also more “exotic” insertion schemes, for example, for vertical radiators of great height - some models from this series require a two-way connection with both connections from above. But the very design of such batteries is thought out in such a way that the heat transfer from them is maximum.

Dependence of the heat transfer efficiency of a radiator on its installation location in the room

In addition to the connection diagram of radiators to the heating circuit pipes, the efficiency of these heat exchange devices is seriously affected by the location of their installation.

First of all, certain rules for placing a radiator on the wall in relation to adjacent structures and interior elements of the room must be observed.

The most typical location of the radiator is under window opening. In addition to the general heat transfer, the upward convection flow creates a kind of “thermal curtain” that prevents the free penetration of colder air from the windows.

• The radiator at this location will show maximum efficiency, if its total length is about 75% of the width of the window opening. In this case, you must try to install the battery exactly in the center of the window, with a minimum deviation not exceeding 20 mm in one direction or another.
• The distance from the bottom plane of the window sill (or other obstacle located above - a shelf, horizontal wall of a niche, etc.) should be about 100 mm. In any case, it should never be less than 75% of the depth of the radiator itself. Otherwise, an insurmountable barrier to convection currents is created, and the battery efficiency drops sharply.
• The height of the lower edge of the radiator above the floor surface should also be about 100÷120 mm. With a clearance of less than 100 mm, firstly, considerable difficulties are artificially created in carrying out regular cleaning under the battery (and this is a traditional place for the accumulation of dust carried by convection air currents). And secondly, convection itself will be difficult. At the same time, “lifting” the radiator too high, with a clearance from the floor surface of 150 mm or more, is also completely useless, since this leads to uneven distribution of heat in the room: a pronounced cold layer may remain in the area bordering the floor surface air.
• Finally, the radiator must be positioned at least 20 mm away from the wall using brackets. Reducing this clearance is a disruption of normal air convection, and in addition, clearly visible dust traces may soon appear on the wall.

These are guidelines that should be followed. However, for some radiators there are also manufacturer’s own recommendations for linear parameters installations - they are indicated in the product operating manuals.

It is probably unnecessary to explain that a radiator located openly on the wall will show much higher heat transfer than one that is completely or partially covered by certain interior items. Even too much wide window sill can already reduce heating efficiency by several percent. And if you consider that many owners cannot do without thick curtains on the windows, or, for the sake of interior design, try to cover up unsightly radiators with the help of facade decorative screens or even completely closed covers, then the calculated power of the batteries may not be enough to fully heat the room.

Heat transfer losses, depending on the features of installing the heating radiator on the walls, are shown in the table below.

Illustration	The influence of the shown placement on the heat transfer of the radiator
	The radiator is located completely open on the wall, or installed under the window sill, which covers no more than 75% of the depth of the battery. In this case, both main heat transfer paths – convection and thermal radiation. Efficiency can be taken as one.
	A window sill or shelf completely covers the radiator from above. For infrared radiation this does not matter, but the convection flow already encounters a serious obstacle. Losses can be estimated at 3 ÷ 5% of the total thermal power of the battery.
	In this case, there is not a window sill or shelf on top, but the upper wall of a wall niche. At first glance, everything is the same, but the losses are already somewhat greater - up to 7 ÷ 8%, since part of the energy will be wasted on heating the very heat-intensive wall material.
	The radiator is covered from the front part decorative screen, but the clearance for air convection is sufficient. The loss is in thermal infrared radiation, which especially affects the efficiency of cast iron and bimetallic batteries. Heat transfer losses with this installation reach 10÷12%.
	The heating radiator is completely covered with a decorative casing on all sides. It is clear that in such a casing there are grilles or slot-like openings for air circulation, but both convection and direct thermal radiation are sharply reduced. Losses can reach up to 20 - 25% of the calculated battery power.

So, it is obvious that owners are free to change some of the nuances of installing heating radiators in order to increase the efficiency of heat transfer. However, sometimes space is so limited that you have to put up with existing conditions regarding both the location of the heating circuit pipes and free space on the surface of the walls. Another option is that the desire to hide the batteries from view prevails over common sense, and installing screens or decorative casings is already a done deal. This means, in any case, you will have to make adjustments to the total power of the radiators in order to be guaranteed to achieve required level heating The calculator below will help you make the appropriate adjustments correctly.