How to properly plaster a wall. Plastering walls with your own hands: step-by-step instructions from “A” to “Z.” What material and tools are needed for plastering at different stages?

Plastering walls is a painstaking and hard work. To accomplish this, special compounds are usually used, most often gypsum base. In addition, for a high-quality result it is very important to comply correct sequence process: it is carried out in several stages.

Plastering walls is a task that requires special knowledge, skills and abilities from the performer. Proper alignment of the walls will facilitate the gluing process and significantly improve appearance premises. This kind of work can be done independently, but more often it is still trusted to the masters. In any case, when carrying out this procedure you will have to take into account some nuances.

To get a quality result (ideally smooth walls), are needed 4 components of success:

• experienced master plasterer;
• high-quality plaster mixture (you need to carefully familiarize yourself with its composition and the manufacturer);
• proper preparation of the solution;
• proper storage conditions plaster mixture before starting work (moisture ingress is unacceptable).

In addition, you need to clearly understand the purpose for which the walls of this premises finished with plaster. Plastering walls under wallpaper is a slightly different situation than plastering bathroom walls under tiles. In this case, you need to properly plaster the walls with gypsum plaster so that the main decor (tiles or wallpaper) sticks.

The best way to plaster walls depends on the home owner’s wallet, as well as on the characteristics of the room in which repairs need to be made. In addition, it is important to understand why you should plaster walls - for wallpaper, tiles or just painting.

Which plaster is better to use? First, you need to know that plaster can be dry or wet. Secondly, both dry and wet plaster exist three types:

• ordinary (actually the composition for leveling the walls);
• decorative (colored, terrazite or stone);
• special.

The cheapest option is lime plaster. But this option, unfortunately, is short-lived and is only suitable for plastering walls inside the building. The outer part is plastered with a different composition. In addition, lime is absolutely not suitable for the bathroom. The fact is that lime is afraid of moisture.

The main advantages of gypsum plasters are good sound and heat insulation. This is a plastic material in which cracks rarely form. This plaster dries quickly and hardens. A few hours are enough for this.

Unfortunately, such mixtures are not sufficiently resistant to moisture and mechanical damage. Before plastering the walls with gypsum plaster, you need to study all the features of the room. At the same time, you can decorate the walls with Rotband (popular gypsum plaster) even in the bathroom.

Cement is universal option for plastering walls both inside and outside. The main advantages of the material are resistance to moisture and changes temperature regime. It can also be used to plaster bathroom walls before laying tiles. It is recommended to choose it if the owners do not know which dry or wet plaster is best for finishing internal or external walls.

Also, many users are interested in how quickly the applied plaster will dry. From this point of view, cement and gypsum mixtures are practical. In addition, you need to read on the bag or bucket with the mixture at what temperature the mixture dries fastest.

Types of dry plaster

Dry plaster May be:

• simple;
• improved;
• high quality

The quality of dry plaster is determined by differences. Normal - with differences of no more than 3 mm, improved - with differences of no more than 2 mm. In high-quality, differences of a maximum of 1 mm are allowed.

The simple one is usually finished in warehouses, basements and other premises for utility purposes; the second one is used in public institutions - hospitals and schools. But the walls of residential buildings are finished with high quality.

To know how to plaster walls with your own hands, you can read a lot of tips on the Internet.

However, it all comes down to two options: plastering with beacons and without beacons. Anyone can learn how to plaster walls, although it will be more difficult for a beginner than for a professional plasterer.

Deciding how and with what to plaster the walls in the bathroom under tiles or walls living rooms Before wallpapering, it is important to correctly assess the quality of the existing surface.

To plaster the walls yourself, you will need to apply the solution in three layers. The resulting excess is removed with a trapezoidal spatula. You will have to buy it before plastering walls of any material with your own hands.

In any case, the solution must be applied extremely carefully.

Plastering on a plane (using a rule) is a good option if the walls are relatively flat. If there are serious unevenness on the walls, the contractor has no other choice but to plaster the walls according to the beacons. Thanks to beacon profiles, unevenness is eliminated with an accuracy of 1 mm/m2.

Typically, metal beacons are used for this, although artificial plaster beacons can also be created. In the second case, you can save the plaster mixture (the layer with iron beacons will be at least 6 mm).

Before plastering aerated concrete walls, you need to make sure that the plaster mixture is ideal for them. This material is environmentally friendly, it lets oxygen in and out of the room carbon dioxide, therefore, the choice of plaster should be taken responsibly.

Technologies of how to plaster walls made of foam block, foam concrete, as well as how to plaster concrete walls, differ little from each other. It is important to choose only the right mixture. The technologies for plastering wooden walls are also similar.

How to plaster brick walls depends on the location of the surface to be finished. Concrete and other moisture-resistant materials are suitable from the outside, but plastering brick walls inside the house is also permissible with gypsum mixtures.

The method of plastering walls with cement-sand mortar is similar to the methods of working with any other means for wall finishing. The main thing is to add required amount water.

How to plaster walls using beacons?

Many users are looking for tips on how to plaster walls without beacons. Here you have to determine the layer thickness and surface quality by eye. This method is suitable for relatively flat surfaces. This way minor imperfections are smoothed out.

Plastered walls are already finished with the chosen paint, wallpaper or tiles - it depends on the purpose of the room and the desires of the owner.

Mother of two children. I'm leading household for more than 7 years - this is my main job. I like to experiment, I constantly try different means, methods, techniques that can make our life easier, more modern, more fulfilling. I love my family.

Independent construction and repairs require a careful approach to the implementation of the plan. One common theme is,how to plaster walls with your own hands. Video for a beginnerwill help you cope with the task. Additionally, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the theory of work technique.

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Why are these events needed?

Plastering walls It is not visible in the overall design composition of the room, but it is impossible without it. The presented equipment is necessary to insulate the building and protect it from the influence of the external environment. Moreover, plaster can become excellent protection from exposure to fire, since modern building materials cannot prevent rapid ignition.

When considering plastering walls, we can highlight the following points of need for the process:

• Using a layer of plaster, “rough” walls and ceilings are leveled, which are then simply painted or whitewashed.
• During the construction of houses, partition seams are formed, and numerous, albeit minor, masonry defects can be found. This can be easily fixed.
• The main task of plastering for the common man becomes preliminary alignment walls for decorative works– wallpapering, surface painting.

Main types of mixtures and their preparation

DIY plastercarried out by dissolving ready-made mixtures purchased in construction stores.

The choice of products is huge, so you need to know exactly which one is best to use so as not to provoke a collapse - yes, a poor-quality mixture or incorrectly applied plaster can simply move away from the wall.

This happens in case of an error, either immediately after application and drying, or after the fact. finished finishing walls, which is typical when freezing in winter. To avoid such problems, you should study all possible types of plaster mixtures.

Gypsum and cement mortars are suitable for finishing walls, each of which, in addition to the main component, includes binders and secondary additives that perform one or another function. Mixtures in powder form are packaged in sealed bags, so their shelf life exceeds several years.

Gypsum mixture

It has a low cost, but at the same time a high adhesion rate.Adhesive properties are the degree of adhesion to the surface and rapid hardening.Due to the presented indicators, this type of finishing is used to level ceilings. The gypsum mixture contains gypsum and fine sand. Sand makes it possible to achieve the most even, smooth surface, so these mixtures are used for finishing walls for painting or decorative treatment.

The advantages of the gypsum mixture are the following:

• the finished wall has good thermal insulation;
• gypsum can absorb excess liquid and then repel it;
• plaster is excellent for residential premises where a constant microclimate is maintained;
• gypsum mixture can prevent the spread of bacteria and fungi.

Gypsum-based plaster hardens quickly, so special substances are added to it to prolong this process.

Important!Despite positive properties, gypsum plaster is not recommended for use in rooms with a constantly changing microclimate. These include bathrooms and verandas of private houses.

Cement mixture

Its basis is cement, but for better adhesion and quality of installation, sand or crushed limestone is used.

Sand can be of a coarse fraction, it all depends on the amount of added limestone and cement in general.

Plastering walls can be done with other compounds that are easy to make yourself. The proportions of the mixtures are presented in the table.

If there is no exact data on the proportions of mixing the main substances to create a certain type of plaster, it is better to purchase a ready-made package. Manufacturers always indicate the features and characteristics of their products.

Preliminary surface priming

Having decided, how to plaster walls, proceed to priming the surface - a procedure that makes it possible to further reduce the absorption of moisture by the plaster.The primer is made with special compounds that prevent the development of fungi and bacteria on the wall.It is designed to improve adhesiveness, whereby plastering walls with your own handsit will be more thorough.

For primers, special dry mixtures are used, which are diluted with water in the proportions indicated on the packages. The following is done:

1. The roller is moistened with a special diluted primer.
2. It is important to squeeze the roller as best as possible - the mixture should not drip.
3. The wall is treated with a primer using simple roller movements - first horizontal, then vertical.
4. If the primer is absorbed into the wall quickly, then you should wait until it dries completely and prime again.

Applying plaster to the walloccurs only after it has completely dried - sometimes you have to wait 1-2 days for this. Of course, before priming, a preliminary surface preparation procedure should be carried out.

Surface preparation

The only thing do-it-yourself plaster ruleis a mandatory preliminary preparation. This procedure includes 3 main processes - surface cleaning, wall marking and priming. The presented technology impliesplastering walls using beacons with your own hands.

Preliminary work is carried out in several stages:

1. First you need to get rid of large defects on the wall - often these are large cement leaks that arise due to improper laying of bricks, foam blocks and others building materials. If there is paint on the walls or decorative plaster, it needs to be shot down.
2. Then the entire wall is tapped with a hammer - this ensures crumbling weak points, which will further prevent the new layer of plaster from cracking or peeling off from the surface.
3. If there are any on the wall metal elements– nails and screws – they are removed. If reinforcement is available, use a grinder. It is better to treat the remaining parts with an anti-corrosion compound.
4. DIY plastering worknecessarily carried out with a large splash of diluted compounds, so it is better to cover the furniture with polyethylene.
5. Next, the walls are checked at the building level to determine the presence of deviations. All places with depressions and other irregularities are marked with a marker.
6. If there are holes larger than 3 cm, they must first be sealed with putty. If there are bumps, use a grinder to achieve maximum leveling.
7. Step back 30 cm from the corner and draw a straight vertical line using a building level. Next, they retreat 1.5 m from the line and draw another line.
8. On all surfaces of the walls, step back 15 cm from the floor and ceiling along the drawn line and drill a hole. A self-tapping screw is screwed into it.
9. Now you should pull the thread from corner to corner on the self-tapping screws - you will get 2 horizontal lines on each wall. These lines will intersect the vertical ones. At the intersections, marks are made and holes are drilled for dowels without self-tapping screws.
10. Next, proceed to the priming procedure as described above.

Beacons help track the thickness of the applied layer of plaster mixture.

With their help, precise leveling of the treated surface is carried out.

This significantly speeds up the work process and also makes it high quality.

Beacons are purchased ready-made in construction stores.

These are metal layers that have a mark that determines the thickness of the plaster layer.

Materials

Process, how to plaster a wall,depends on its type - from what building materials it is built. Let's take a closer look at three types of walls:

• Brick - cement-based compositions are used for them. Additionally, lime is added to them to make the mixture plastic and moisture resistant. The thickness of the layer should not exceed 3 cm.A reinforcing network is first attached to the wall to strengthen the layer and improve adhesion - this will improveplastering walls with cement mortar with your own hands.
• Concrete - require mandatory priming with a mixture containing quartz sand and flour. For the main process use cement mortar, to which gypsum or lime may be added. If the concrete has a characteristic roughness, use mixtures without additional inclusions. Adhesion can be improved by treating the wall with Betonkontakt.
• Cellular concrete simplifies the procedure for finishing walls. First, you should treat the surfaces with deeply penetrating impregnation, and then plaster them using solutions - gypsum, lime or concrete.

Attention!Construction stores offer a huge number of various mixtures that contain different compositions intended for treating a particular surface. The packages indicate the characteristics and dilution methods: the contents are simply poured with water in a certain proportion, which is also indicated on the bags. If you follow the instructions, there will be no problems with diluting the mixtures.

Using cement mortar

Plastering a brick wall with your own handsusing cement mortar starts with pre-treatment surfaces, as described above. As soon as the preparation for installing the beacons is completed and the walls are primed, you can begin the following activities:

1. Self-tapping screws screwed into the upper holes are the starting point for working with the rule. The rule is applied to the screws so that a vertical line is formed - this will be a level indicating to what depth the screw will have to be screwed in from below.
2. After this, 2 diagonal lines are pulled between the fastener heads and a beacon is placed under them. If it touches the thread, then check the level of the screws screwed in. Once everything is aligned, begin to tension the cord between the upper and lower screws.
3. Next, cut off the beacon profile of the required length along the vertical line of the screws and an additional 5 cm protrusion on both sides.
4. Then the prepared mortar is laid out on a line of plaster along the marked vertical line. The beacon is pressed into the cement to a depth in accordance with the located screws.
5. The location of the beacons is checked with a level and the screws are removed.
6. After waiting for the mortar to dry on the wall, they begin to completely plaster the walls using the “Spray” method.

1. If the wall is concrete or brick, first moisten its surface with a roller or sponge.
2. Next, using a spatula, they begin to spread the solution onto the wall from bottom to top. For beginners, this technique will be difficult, but it can be easily mastered through training, which takes no more than 10-15 minutes.
3. If the solution cape does not work out, you can use in a simple way– scoop the mixture onto a wide spatula and carefully transfer it to the surface, gradually stretching the amount into an even layer.
4. Having first applied the plaster to a small section of the wall, take the rule and, having installed it perpendicular to the beacons, begin to draw a line in a zigzag motion from the bottom up. This will help cut off excess solution.
5. When working with the rule, bubbles may form - these areas must be cleared of the mixture, and then applied again, carefully leveling the wall.
6. Next, the rule is to draw a straight vertical line again - this is done at least 5 times, achieving a perfectly flat surface.\

Advice! Do-it-yourself plastering of wall cornerscarried out quickly using a small spatula. They apply the solution and carefully distribute it as evenly as possible with the main canvas. If there is a bump, it is sanded with sandpaper after the solution has dried. The angle is formed with a square.

What is grout

Grout is do-it-yourself finishing plaster of walls, which is designed to remove small errors on treated surfaces. Grouting is carried out with special brushes similar to sandpaper. Grouting should be done immediately after the plaster layer has set, but before it dries completely. The grater is pre-moistened with water if the solution is completely dry.Before working, you should wear a respirator, since the process generates a lot of dust.

The grout can be dry or with mortar. If you choose the grouting method with mortar, then first make a plaster solution - thinner than what was used for the main process. The solution is scooped onto a grater in small quantities and the surfaces are leveled.

The issue has been discussed in detail above.what is needed for plastering walls, as well as all the nuances independent work subject to certain existing features. If you follow the recommendations and rules, there will be no problems with the independent surface finishing process.

Plastering walls allows you to level their surface for further finishing of the area with putty, tile ceramic tiles. If you try and plaster correctly, following the technology, then in the future you get an ideal surface that allows you to complete the finishing without problems and the cost of additional labor.

The quality of the final finish is half dependent on the evenness of the surface on which it is performed. In addition, an important role is played by the overconsumption of an expensive finishing component, which will be used instead of an inexpensive starting mixture for plastering works.

Various formulations for application

You can plaster various compositions and components depending on material wealth and expectations of the final effect.

Wet plaster

Prepared from original natural ingredients, mixed by hand or in electric mortar mixers:

Application of dry mixtures

In modern conditions construction production plastered with dry ready-made mixtures, which are carefully crushed and modernized during the manufacturing process in a factory. The mixture contains gypsum components. Such dry mixtures should only be mixed with water in sufficient quantity and can be applied to the walls.

They are very convenient to work with, since gypsum makes them plastic and increases adhesion to various reasons. A small drawback is that ready-made aqueous solutions harden quite quickly, but for craftsmen this is not a burdening factor - they manage to work out the solution long before it sets. Dry mixtures are divided into:

• for plaster interior spaces they use gypsum-sand compositions with the addition of modernized components;
• plastering of external walls is done with cement-gypsum mixtures with plastic additives.

Plastering technology

Perform plastering walls can be done in two ways:

Acceptance tolerances for plastered surfaces

Requirements for the quality of work are specified in SNiP III-21–1973 and are classified according to difficulty for high quality, advanced and simple plaster.

Simple plaster is used in rooms with small quality requirements; deviations from the vertical are allowed within 0.3 cm per 1 linear meter, provided that the total vertical deviation in a standard room with a height of 2.5 m does not exceed 0.75 cm. Smooth plaster is allowed depressions and protrusions in the amount of 3 pieces for every 4 m2, provided that they are no more than 5 mm. Horizontal deviation is allowed no more than 3 mm per linear meter.

The requirements set out in SNiP for improved plaster allow for fewer irregularities. The vertical wall can deviate no more than 0.2 cm per linear meter, the general deviation allows an error of no more than 1 cm over the entire height of the room. For the same 4 meters, no more than two depressions are allowed or bulges 0.3 cm deep. Along a horizontal straight line, a deviation of no more than 0.2 cm is allowed.

High-quality plaster must be taken even more strictly. Characteristic for her permissible deviations are 0.1 cm per vertical meter. At four meters, as in the previous category, two irregularities are allowed, but their permissible depth is reduced to 0.2 cm. On the horizontal plane, a difference of only 0.1 cm is allowed on each meter.

Tools and materials for plastering walls with your own hands

Beacons are narrow strips of metal with a rigid central guide, equipped with big amount holes on the side surfaces. Lighthouse slats will play the role of leveled and fixed longitudinal supports for running along them as a rule when leveling the applied solution. Lighthouses are divided into types 0.6 cm and 1 cm, their length is 3 m.

The rule is a flat and strong lath with a sharp plane on one side. It is designed to pull off excess mortar from the surface, resting on a frame of beacons. To check verticality and horizontality, a level is inserted into some rules. Also, for plastering with your own hands you will need such tools and materials:

• drill with mixer for mixing the solution;
• hammer drill with drills for attaching beacons;
• dowels, black wood screws;
• rule with level or separately building level two or more meters long;
• metal scissors for cutting lighthouse slats;
• hammer, chisel, plumb line;
• large spatula, from 40 to 60 cm;
• ironed, grater;
• buckets for mixing solution and water;
• wide brush for priming the surface;
• tape measure and gloves with a rubberized surface;
• bags with dry mixture;
• deep penetration soil.

When all materials and tools are prepared, plastering of the walls begins.

Preparation, priming of walls and fastening of beacons with your own hands

To begin installing beacons, the walls are examined for deviations from the vertical and horizontal. All protrusions and depressions mark with pencil or chalk. Sometimes large protruding parts are easier to knock off with a chisel or ax so as not to put a lot of mortar around them. All this is objectively assessed and accepted correct solution. For the correct concept of a preparatory inspection, there is a video in which all stages are shown in detail.

After this, they begin marking the surface for installing the lighthouse slats. The outermost beacons on both sides are installed first, retreating from the edge by 0.3 m. The distance from the first to the second beacon is determined by the length of the rule. If the rule is two meters, then the distance take about 1.6 m. In this case, you need to follow a straight line laid at the level of the floor and ceiling from the first to the last beacon on one wall. The top and bottom of all intermediate slats must be on it. To make the position of the straight line clear, the threads should be tightened.

When installing beacons with your own hands, you should achieve such alignment that all angles are 90º. Before installing the beacons, be sure to treat the wall with soil, and follow the instructions on the packaging to dilute the solution. Loose surfaces are primed twice, the first layer is applied with a weak solution, and the second in the proportion on the package. After complete drying, marking work continues.

The installation of all intermediate beacons is carried out only along the boundaries of the threads, stretched diagonally and horizontally in several places. The beacon slats should touch them from the inside, but not protrude beyond their boundaries and do not strain them.

At first, the beacons are not attached, but only applied to exposed screws, checking them with a level. They are fastened with a mixture for plaster, diluted specifically for this operation. The mixture is applied in an even line along the screws so that it protrudes beyond their plane.

The lighthouse is brought to the line of screws and pressed down until it touches the caps. It is convenient to do this with two people from below and from above. The process of installing beacons is perfectly shown in the video. After the initial setting of the solution, they proceed to installing the next beacon. The rules and levels involved in the work process must be cleared of adhering solution.

The process of applying plaster mortar

To prepare the solution, pour water into a bucket and only then add the dry mixture. If you do the opposite, the resulting solution will set during the kneading process and it will not be possible to thoroughly stir the mixture until smooth. To apply a thick layer, make a thick solution, which will stay on the spatula. It is not possible to apply a large layer with a liquid solution.

The solution is applied with a spatula into the spaces between the beacons. If you do this kind of work with your own hands several times and watch the corresponding video, you can get used to applying just enough plaster to properly cover all the voids. You need to apply the solution from the bottom up, gradually removing the excess solution with a rule, progressively lifting it in a zigzag motion. The solution remaining on the rule is carefully removed into a bucket with a spatula or placed on the wall above for further use.

It is not recommended to add mortar particles that have fallen to the floor to the total mass, since dried particles in the mixture will be left on the wall surface long and deep furrows, which will additionally have to be filled with plaster. In the resulting voids, where the solution was not laid down sufficiently, you need to add the mixture and re-use the rule.

After completely applying the plaster to the entire strip between adjacent beacon slats, you need to carry out control pulling through the beacons several times. As a rule, there are unfinished areas at the very bottom and top, which are additionally applied.

After plastering, check the surface using the rule under different angles. If there are lumps that do not fit into the overall picture, they can be scraped off with a spatula while the solution has just hardened. Cracks and deep scratches are covered with a liquid solution and smoothed out.

After setting and hardening, the mixture is removed metal beacons, which can rust and will appear brown spots on finishing. After removing the slats, grooves will remain, which are filled with mortar and smoothed to obtain the correct surface.

There are times when it is necessary to apply a layer of plaster more than five centimeters, then it is recommended to apply the solution in two stages.

For this procedure, dilute the mixture in small portions or more liquid composition. Before grouting, treat the work area of ​​about a meter with water. The solution is applied to a grater and evenly applied to the surface. They continue to do this repeatedly, strongly pressing on the rule. If everything is done correctly, the result will be an even and smooth section of the wall, and there will be no liquid solution left on the grater.

This is how the following are processed neighboring areas, you can watch the work process in the video to make it more clear. The grouting process should take place without interruptions and you can only be distracted by preparing the solution.

If plastering and leveling the walls is carried out as a basis for finishing tiles, then the correct thing to do would be not to rub down the walls. The smallest irregularities on the surface, on the contrary, will help grip. adhesive solution with the surface.

Mechanical methods of applying plaster mortar

They are used for finishing walls in rooms of large area and length, both indoors and outdoors. For such a process, which can be seen on video, we use special plastering machine, equipped with a water supply and a container for receiving dry mixture. After mixing the solution, it is supplied to the wall through a special hose with nozzles.

When applied mechanically, beacons are set in a standard way, and the solution is leveled using the rule. Is different mechanical method reduction in labor intensity by eliminating the operation of preparing a solution from manual labor. Due to this application it is possible to process much more area for the same period of time.

Alignment of walls plaster mortar is an integral part of any room finishing in modern conditions; the amount of basic finishing material spent depends on its correct implementation.

Well-plastered walls always look very aesthetically pleasing and neat, but to achieve such results you need to do quite labor-intensive work.

Plastering walls with your own hands can be done if a novice master thoroughly studies how this process is carried out, understands what is needed to carry it out, and understands the basics of the technology of such work.

However, in order to perform high-quality plastering of walls, not only theoretical knowledge is important, but also at least a little practice in this work. Therefore, if you have no experience in plastering “manipulations,” you first need to try your hand at a small section of the wall. By doing this kind of training, you can at least get a little better at sketching and leveling it out.

This experience will be useful not only to owners of private houses, but also to owners of apartments in high-rise buildings, since, unfortunately, even in panel houses walls often need quite serious leveling.

Material for applying plaster

The plaster mixture for finishing walls is selected depending on what the walls of the building are made of. In addition, the conditions where there will be work is being carried out- indoors or outside a building.

Prices for popular types of plaster

Plaster

Brick walls

• Brick walls are usually plastered with cement-based mixtures, sometimes with a small addition of lime to give additional plasticity. Lime is also added if work is carried out in a room with high humidity or outside the building.

• A layer of plaster is applied to the brick walls, which should not exceed 30 mm. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the fact that if the thickness of the coating is more than 20 mm, then a chain-link mesh must be attached to the wall under the plaster to reinforce and hold the mixture on the surface.
• based on cement, you need to take ingredients based on the proportions of 1 part cement and 3 ÷ 4 parts sifted clean sand. Specified starting materials mixed with water to a thick consistency, but it is also taken into account that the mixture must be plastic.
• If a cement-lime mixture is being made, then you will need 1 part cement, 1 ÷ 2 lime paste and 5 ÷ 7 parts sand. First, sand is mixed with cement, then lime diluted to the consistency of milk is added to the dry mixture, and everything is mixed together until smooth. If the composition is too thick, it is allowed (although not encouraged) to add large quantity water.
• If fixed to the walls facing brick, then it will be more difficult to plaster it due to the fact that it has a smooth surface. It is likely that the mixture will roll off the wall or even fall off in pieces - sometimes even reinforcing mesh does not help in such a situation. Therefore, such a surface requires special professional primers and properly selected reinforcing mesh. It is better to entrust this work to qualified specialists who know which materials will be optimal for a particular surface and are fluent in the technology of applying them to “complex” surfaces.

Concrete wall

• If concrete surface smooth, then it must be prepared using a primer with the addition of quartz inclusions, which will give the wall the roughness required to reliably hold the plaster. Added to the cement mortar for the wall gypsum powder, which significantly enhances the adhesion of the mixture to the wall.

• In addition, a lime-gypsum solution is often used for such a surface, where proportions of 3 ÷ 4 parts lime and 1 part gypsum are applicable. The process of preparing such a mixture takes place in the following order: gypsum is quickly mixed with water - the mass should not be too thick, lime mortar is poured into it, and then everything is kneaded until smooth.
• If the concrete wall has roughness, then it will not require complex training, special approach or special compounds, since traditional cement or gypsum plaster mortars are suitable for it. However, before applying the plaster to the wall, it is recommended to impregnate it with the deep penetration primer “Betonokontakt”.

Foam concrete walls

When applying plaster to foam concrete, reinforcing mesh is required

• Before plastering, walls made of foam concrete blocks must be treated with a deep penetration impregnation primer. If necessary, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh – “serpyanka” – is fixed to the wall.
• For such walls, both gypsum and cement mortars are used.

When choosing compositions for leveling walls, you need to approach this issue with all responsibility. This is necessary for comfortable plastering work, for good adhesion of the solutions to the wall and for the quality of the task performed - the longest service life of plastered walls.

It should be noted that currently construction stores offer a very large number of ready-mixes for different bases and intended for different surfaces. This is very convenient - when preparing the compositions, you will not need to rack your brains with determining and dosing the proportions of its ingredients, since it will be enough to simply dilute the mixture with water to the consistency indicated on the package.

When choosing or self-production plaster composition, you can use the following tables:

Table 1. Main characteristics of ready-made plaster mixtures

Index	Standards for brands							Test methods
	Coupling solution LS 10/90	Leveling solution LS 35/95	Coupling solution LS 50/50	Coupling solution LS 65/35	Finishing mortar Fine Coat LS 50/50	Termonit putty	Putty for blocks
Recommended layer thickness in mm	3÷5	5÷15	5÷15	5÷15	3÷10	2÷10	3÷10	TU clause 1.2
Recommended water consumption l/25kg	3.5÷4	3.5÷4	3.5÷4	3.5÷4	4÷5	5.5÷6	6÷7	TU clause 1.2
Estimated compressive strength in MPa not less than	16	8	4	2	4	6	20	GOST 5802-86
Estimated bending strength in MPa not less than	2	2	1	1	1	3	3	GOST 5802-86
Adhesion to base in MPa not less	0.5	0.4	0.3	0.3	0.3	1	0.5	GOST 5802-86
Average density of solution kg/m 3	1900	1900	1900	1900	1900	1900	1900	GOST 8735-88
RN	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	12÷13	TU clause 1.2

Wall surface characteristics	Composition of the solution
	Limestone, (with sand, gypsum, cement)	Complex (cement, sand, gypsum, lime)	Cement-sand	Lime-gypsum
In rooms with normal humidity
	1:4; 3:1; 2:1	1:1:6	1:0,3:4*	-
Wooden	-	-	-	1:1÷1.5÷2÷2.5
For rooms with high humidity and for outdoor use
Brick, concrete, stone	-	1:1:4	1:3	-
Wooden		1:1:6	1:4	-
* Note - 0.3 lime is added to the cement mortar for plasticity.
Note: the mobility of the solution should be 60 ÷ 80 mm for mechanized application, 70 ÷ 80 mm for manual application

Preparatory work

Before starting plastering work, it is necessary to carry out preparatory activities for cleaning old walls finishing materials. This is done so that the plaster fits well and stays on the surface of the wall - everything must be removed from it, down to the base. Walls made of different materials, require individual approach to their cleaning.

If, after cleaning the walls, cracks are found on them, they must be repaired, otherwise the plaster placed on top of them may crack in the same place.

Sealing cracks

Detected cracks must be repaired, and this process is carried out different ways, depending on the width and prevalence existing defects.

• If the width of the crack is small, but it is obvious that it goes deep into the wall, the first thing to do is to widen it and free access to the narrow part in the thickness of the material.

Expansion of cracks on the wall surface...
... followed by their sealing

After the penetrating composition has dried, the crack is sealed with cement or gypsum-based putty using a spatula, level with the wall surface.

• If the crack is very narrow and not deep, then you can seal it with sealant or silicone. They fill the crack with the help of a thin nozzle-spout attached to the bottle with the composition, which is directed deep into the crack.

• Very good for sealing wide cracks often used and polyurethane foam, which can be used to fill gaps without even waiting for the primer to dry completely.

After complete polymerization of the foam, its excess, protruding beyond the level of the wall surface, is cut off, and then you can proceed to the next processes according to

Preparing a brick wall

• If a thin layer has already been applied to brick walls old plaster, it needs to be wetted with water using a sponge, wetting it several times - this way it will be easier to come off the surface.

• Then, using a spatula with a metal working surface thickness of 1.5 ÷ 2 mm and a hammer, the plaster layer must be carefully removed.

To do this, one of the sections of the wall is first tapped with a hammer. Then, through the cracks that have appeared, the plaster that has peeled off from the impacts is picked up with a spatula.

• If necessary, tap its handle with a hammer, separating layers of plaster from the wall.
• You need to walk along the cleaned wall with a wire brush or a grinder with an appropriate attachment. Next, the seams between the bricks need to be deepened a little - by 5 ÷ 7 mm, so that the plaster goes into them and from this got the best
• adhesion to the wall.
• After this, the wall is cleaned with a soft brush and then a damp sponge. The final ones preparatory stage

is to cover the wall with a deep penetration primer in two layers. The second layer is applied after the first has completely dried.

How to prepare a concrete wall

• It is easier to clean a smooth concrete wall from plaster or whitewash than a brick wall, since the plaster usually sticks to it less well.
• The whitewash can be thoroughly wetted with a sponge and brushed off with an iron brush, and then the surface of the wall can be rinsed well.

• If you don’t want to spread dampness, you can do it differently: first cover the whitewash with a thick layer of paste and let it dry, and then clean off the whitewash or a thin layer of plaster with a hard spatula.
• It is recommended to make shallow cuts on the cleaned surface. It should be noted that this process is not easy, so you will have to make a lot of effort. But you shouldn’t ignore it. You can replace the application of notches with more simple method

- by priming the wall with the addition of fine quartz sand. But sometimes this method may not work, so it is best to conduct the experiment on a small section of the wall, applying soil to it and waiting for it to dry completely. Next, you need to run your hand along the wall, checking its roughness. If it is noticeable, it means that the plaster will stick to it well. But the sand should not fall off the wall.

• Preparing a wooden wall It is quite easy to clean off old plaster from a wooden surface. They tap the wall with a hammer, and the plaster itself falls off to the floor, so it is recommended to lay it under the wall in advance plastic film . Then, after removing the plaster, the film along with the chipped construction debris can be immediately removed from the room, without stretching the cleaning for a long time and without spreading dirt
• In order for the plaster to adhere well to a wooden surface, thin slats are stuffed onto it - the so-called shingles. They are nailed onto the wall diagonally. The shingles will not only hold well plaster mortar, but will also serve as beacons when leveling it on the surface.

Shingles on wooden wall- excellent “reinforcement” for plaster

• If, after cleaning the wall of old plaster, it is discovered that old shingles are attached to the surface, it must be removed, since insects could have infested it during long-term use, or it could have rotted and does not adhere securely to the surface. wall. In addition, an old tree can very often emit bad smell, which can easily seep into the room through a layer of new plaster.
• Do not forget that before filling the sheathing, the wall must be coated with antiseptic compounds to protect the wood from mold or the appearance of colonies of harmful insects.
• If shingles are chosen for the sheathing, then after its installation is completed, the wall must once again be coated with a wood preservative.
• Sometimes, instead of shingles, metal mesh is used for sheathing. It is fixed not to the wooden wall itself, but to the slats, which are spacers between the mesh and the wall. Their thickness should be at least 3 mm.
• Proceed to further work Leveling the walls with plaster is possible only after the wall has dried thoroughly.

Displaying beacons

To achieve ideal evenness of the wall using plastering, it is necessary to establish guidelines, so-called beacons, which are set according to the building level.

Typically, metal guides are made, which are fixed to the wall using gypsum mortar - it quickly sets and holds the metal profile in the position inwhich it was installed level.

• The beacons are installed at a distance of about one and a half meters from each other, in such a way that when leveling the solution, it usually follows two adjacent beacon profiles.

The ideal verticality of the profiles is controlled using a plumb line.

• If you only have a short level in your tool kit, then you can use a long block that is placed against the guide before the plaster solution has completely dried. A level is placed in the middle and one or the other side of the guide is leveled along it, carefully pressing it with a block.

After preparing the walls for applying plaster, you can proceed to preparing the solution.

Preparation of mortar for plaster

The process itself plastering Most often it is carried out in three stages, applying the solution in three layers.

• The first layer is throwing a fairly thick plaster solution onto the wall.

The first layer is a sketch, simply laying on a plastic plaster composition

The process can be carried out using a trowel or simply by hand, but in this case you must wear thick rubber gloves.

- The mortar is applied to brick and concrete walls with a thickness slightly higher than the installed beacons - this is approximately 5 mm.

— On wooden walls with lathing, the thickness should be about 8 ÷ 9 mm.

• The second layer is called soil. A solution with a dough-like consistency is prepared for it. It is applied using a trowel or wide spatula, and its thickness should be about 7 ÷ 8 mm.
• The third, finishing layer is called the covering. It should be made of fine-grained sand without large inclusions. The solution for the finishing layer must have creamy consistency.

You can purchase ready-made mixtures for each layer of plaster, which contain all the components that contribute to good adhesion and strength of the hardened mass.

The solution should “diverge” well along the plane of the wall, but not flow down

If the solution is made independently, then the following recipes are most often used for their preparation:

• Cement-lime composition: 1 Part lime, 1 Part cement and 5 parts sand
• Cement mortar: 3 parts sand and 1 part cement.
• Lime-based solution: 1 part lime and 3 parts sand.
• Gypsum-lime composition: 3 parts mixed until doughy state lime and 1 part dry gypsum powder.

There are nuances that must be taken into account before mixing the solution:

• Cement-based plaster must be used within an hour after mixing it, otherwise it will lose its plasticity and will not adhere well to the wall surface. Therefore, you need to mix only such an amount of solution that can be guaranteed to be applied during this period of time.

• Gypsum-based solutions set and harden extremely quickly, so they are mixed immediately before application to the wall and in small quantities. Such solutions also need to be leveled immediately, since thinner layer application, the faster it will dry.
• When using ready-made mixtures, before filling them with water, be sure to study the instructions located on the packaging, since these materials have different terms setting and drying.

Mixing solutions occurs as follows:

• First, water is poured into the container where the solution will be mixed. Then 6 ÷ 8 trowels of dry mixture are poured into it and mixed well using an electric drill with a special mixer attachment.
• Then the dry mixture is gradually added to the container and mixed to the desired consistency. The solution must be homogeneous and plastic.
• Next, the resulting solution is left for a couple of minutes and then kneaded one more time. If necessary, add a little water or dry plaster mixture, depending on the resulting and required thickness.

Once again I would like to remind you that you need to prepare as much mixture as the master can use in 25 ÷ 30 minutes - If the mixture is made on a gypsum basis, and in 40 ÷ 60 minutes - If on cement.

After the solution is mixed, you must immediately proceed to the first stage of applying plaster to the wall.

Find out the features of the process from our new article.

Plaster application technique

As mentioned above, most often the work is carried out in three stages. They should be considered in more detail in order to know how to act correctly.

• The first stage, “outlining” or “spraying”, is carried out using a trowel.

They begin to pour the mortar from the bottom of the wall, gradually working upwards. The thrown piles of plaster rise above the guides by 8 ÷ 10 mm.

The solution, one might say, is splashed onto the wall with a small spread, with an effort to adhere well to the wall.

Having thrown the plaster at a height of 1000 ÷ 1200 mm from the floor, it is leveled using the rule. It is installed on the guides and slowly lifted up, pressing on the mortar and distributing the plaster between the guides with smooth movements to the left and to the right.

• The next stage is applying a primer layer. This stage is carried out after the mortar of the first layer, poured and leveled, has set.

Due to the plasticity of the composition, it can be applied using a wide spatula.

The solution is taken from the container using a medium-width spatula and transferred to a wide spatula, and then applied to the wall and distributed over it in an even layer. When applying the mixture, it is necessary to level all the stripes remaining from running the spatula across the surface.

The same layer should hide the visible guide strips.

• The third, finishing layer is designed to make the surface perfectly smooth. It should be thin, no more than 1.5 ÷ 2 mm. It is applied to the still wet second layer, and if it has already dried, it can be moistened with a damp roller.

The finishing layer must be made as smooth as possible, smoothing all stripes and leveling not captured by a spatula places In order not to miss a single flaw on the surface, the wall is illuminated tangentially with a light bulb with the overhead lighting turned off.

• After the finishing layer has dried, proceed to grouting the surface using a plastic or wooden trowel. This process is carried out in a circular motion, counterclockwise. In this case, the grater is pressed tightly against the plastered surface.

• Next, felt material or felt is attached to the same grater, and the process of final grinding of the surface begins.

Before you decide to buy a large amount of materials for plastering walls, you should probably start by hardware store purchase several kilograms of ready-made plaster mixture and carry out the entire process on a small section of the wall or on a piece of plywood. If everything goes well, you can move on to large-scale work on the walls of the room.

Today, when you move into a new apartment, it is not so often possible to see it in full. Usually they remain bare, and the question arises: what and how to plaster the walls? Faced with a similar question, many apartment and house owners are perplexed. Everything seems quite simple, but in the end it turns out a little differently than we would like. To perform such work correctly, you must know how and with what to plaster wall surfaces.

What is the best way to plaster walls?

So, the first question that should be answered is which plaster is best for plastering walls. How to choose it correctly and not make a mistake.

Nai the best option there will be a choice of one of the following mixtures:

• Mortar
• Cement-lime
• Lime-gypsum
• Lime-clay
• And the last one, combined, which includes all the above components.

When applying plaster to wooden surfaces, the best option would be to use a solution with the addition of gypsum, since it dries quickly and prevents the wood from absorbing moisture. In other cases, cement-clay mortar is most often used. If it is necessary to restore the old coating or seal damage and bulges, it is recommended to use clean cement mortar.

Let's consider the composition of each type of solution for a more complete understanding and thorough understanding of each of them:

• The first step is lime mortar. Among its components you can find 1 part of lime paste, as well as from one to five parts of sand. The proportion of squeak is determined based on the type of lime and is added gradually until the entire solution becomes homogeneous. At the same time, we note that it should resemble dough in appearance, while only slightly sticking to the trowel.
• The next one to consider is lime-clay. Such a solution contains part of the clay, supplemented with a third of lime, after which 3 to 6 parts of sand are gradually added.
• Next is a rather peculiar solution, which contains one part of cement and from 1 to 3 lime. Initially, cement is mixed with sand in a ratio of 1 to 6-8, after which lime milk is added to this mixture and mixed thoroughly. Water is added if necessary. This solution is called cement-lime.
• You can also find lime-gypsum, which consists of gypsum and lime paste in a ratio of one to four. Preparation of such a solution is quite simple. Gypsum is mixed with water until completely homogeneous, after which lime is added.
• And lastly, the most popular is cement mortar, which contains sand and cement in a ratio of two to five to one.

It should be noted that from the right choice The solution depends on the selection of technology, as well as the final result.

How to plaster walls correctly

Now let's look directly at the rules and techniques for applying plaster to walls. First, you need to acquire a tool that will certainly become quite useful when carrying out work. Among these you can find the following:

• The first is a steel brush, which is necessary to clean the surface of debris, i.e. directly for preparatory work.
• Next, you will need a bush hammer, with which you will make notches on the surface, which is necessary to increase the level of adhesion.
• A scraper is used directly for application.
• Also, to apply the solution and store it, you will need a falcon.
• The next step will be a plaster spatula, with which you will mix and stir the solution in the future.
• A trowel is good for leveling the surface.
• It is also necessary to carry out grouting, which is done using a grater.
• For alignment, or rather its control, a rule should be used.
• To control work in the horizontal plane, a plumb line or water level is good.
• And the last, but most important component is the plaster mixture itself.

Rules for applying plaster

Now let's move on directly to the process of plastering the walls. In total, this includes two stages:

• Surface preparation
• Direct application of the solution.

So, let's look at each of these stages in more detail.

Surface preparation

Speaking about preparing the surface for applying plaster, the main part means increasing the level of adhesion to the maximum possible. The process itself goes as follows:

Initially, the surface is cleaned of the old coating, and excess garbage dirt and dust.

Upon completion of cleaning, the surface is wetted. Enough convenient assistant in this case, it will become a garden sprayer or an ordinary broom.

• In case of brick walls The seams are deepened by one centimeter, which provides better adhesion to the surface.
• When plastering concrete or other smooth walls with a hammer or making notches, they are usually aligned to approximate dimensions of 15 centimeters long and three centimeters deep. It should be noted that on square meter There should be about two hundred notches on the surface. After application, the wall is cleaned and wetted.
• And the last option is to arrange it on a wooden wall. In this case, it is necessary to split the boards, as well as stuffing the shingles. Additionally, you can use cut plywood 1.5 centimeters wide and 0.4 cm thick. The end result should be a good sheathing.

Application technique

The first thing to note is that there are three layers of plaster, each of which has its own characteristics, let’s take a closer look at each of these layers:

• The first layer is the spray. This layer is provided only when plastering wooden surfaces, in other cases its arrangement is not required.
• The next layer is called soil. It is applied in any case, regardless of the surface. By itself, it evens out unevenness, while its thickness is 2 centimeters.
• The covering is the third and final layer, it is provided with a thickness of 2-5 millimeters and becomes the completion, hiding all the errors left by the soil.

Let's look at the process of applying plaster to a wall:

• To begin, take a falcon and fill it with a portion of the solution.
• Then, using a plaster spatula or trowel, spread the solution onto the surface. Another option is spreading, but this method is less effective.
• Next, we begin to level the layer using a trowel. This is done in horizontal and vertical directions; in individual cases, diagonal modification may be necessary. Alignment must be carried out relative to each individual layer. Because the better the previous layer is leveled, the better the next one will be.
• And the last stage of application is grouting. To carry it out, a grater is used. The process begins with circular movements counterclockwise, this way all the irregularities will be erased. Next, to remove circular marks, grouting is carried out.

So, we looked at the basic plastering technique, which is used when there are minor irregularities on the surface. But it is also necessary to consider options strongly uneven walls, and in this case you will have to carry out plastering on the beacons. And also we should not forget about the slopes, which will be discussed further.

Plastering on beacons

If there are significant unevenness or other types of defects on the surface, conventional plastering will not work. More effective options need to be considered good decision will be the application of a large layer, which creates the question of how to plaster on beacons?

First, let's look at the installation of beacons, or more precisely, its appearance. When plastering walls made of material into which nails can be easily driven, wooden or metal strips. In other cases, plaster or alabaster is used for fixation.

• The first thing is marking. The surface is weighed on the sides, at a distance of 20-25 centimeters from the corner. Based on the results, nails are driven in.
• Next, a little mortar is poured along the plumb line, which will serve as a fastener for the beacons. Note that you need to throw it in small piles.
• The next step is to set up the beacons. We apply the product to the solution and align it with a plumb line so that the edge of the lighthouse is at a distance of 1.5-2 centimeters from the wall.
• So, in the same way we install a beacon on the opposite side of the wall, and depending on its length, additional beacons are provided between them in increments of one meter.
• Then we cover the edges of each beacon concrete mortar, which will serve as their final consolidation.
• Next, apply a layer of plaster, as already indicated, either by sketching or spreading. In this case, the layer should be several millimeters larger than the distance to the edge of the beacons.
• Then we begin to level the plaster using the rule. To do this, we apply it to the beacons and move it from the bottom up, this way the excess layer is also removed.
• In places where it may be necessary, add mortar and also level it. Then we leave the walls until completely dry, which usually takes up to 10-12 days.

Thus, we figured out how to plaster correctly, and the video will help you visually familiarize yourself with the technology of beacon plastering.

How to plaster slopes

Let's move on to the last and most labor-intensive stage -. In total, we should note two factors that are of interest to us now:

• The first is the outer corner or corner.
• And the second is the inner corner, or husk.

Enough a good helper in this difficult task there will be original beacons. Thus, to seal the junctions between walls and ceiling, you will need a rule. After its installation, the space between it and the surface is sealed with mortar.

After drying, as in the case of a conventional plastered surface, grouting is carried out with a trowel. This helps remove all surface irregularities and imperfections.

In the case of plastering vertical husks, the rule is also used. We place it next to the beacon, fill the space with a solution, after which we remove our tool. The end result should be a perfectly flat surface. Plastering in the upper part of the corner is carried out in the same way. After which grouting is also carried out.

When finishing external corner a good helper would be one installed on the adjacent wall wooden plank, which will help to better level the applied solution.

Thus, we analyzed all the features of plastering and answered the question of what, and most importantly, how to properly plaster walls. For more visual aid We present to your attention a short video tutorial: