How to properly cut a log on a tire sawmill. How to cut a log lengthwise with a chainsaw yourself. The main points in saw operation

Wood has long been in great demand among humans. Houses were built from it and fortifications were erected. This substance is still in great demand today not only for construction purposes, but also as a decorative material.

There are a huge number of wood products that are produced mainly at sawmills. You can purchase such products on the manufacturer’s website skvagena.com.ua.

Let's start getting acquainted

The band sawmill is a rather complex mechanism consisting of several parts:

• the frame of the sawmill on which all its components are located;
• base for placing the tree in a horizontal position.

In order to start working with this type of sawmill, you first need:

1. 1Familiarize yourself with all the main parts of the mechanism and study the principle of their operation.
2. Learn how to change the saw and start the device.
3. Gain skills in adjusting the position of the tape relative to the horizontal plane. This factor is very important, since the size of the product obtained in the future depends on it.

It is advisable to begin work under the supervision of a person who has extensive experience in performing this procedure.

Cutting process

After you have learned how to turn on, configure and change some components of the system, you can start cutting. It is very important to understand how best to position the log and how to fasten it.

To do this, consult a specialist and let him give you instructions, where you will see all the nuances step by step. Before starting the saw, be sure to check the tension of the belt, as well as the level of its sharpening.

The quality of the resulting board depends on these parameters. The first few times, make the cut under the supervision of a specialist who will tell you all the nuances, since there are quite a lot of them and it is difficult to remember them the first time.

When cutting, the saw should enter the tree smoothly and without much pressure, as otherwise this may lead to its breakage. Carry out the cut carefully, without sudden movements.

Remember that the quality of the product depends on the sharpening and setting of the teeth of the belt, its correct placement on the machine and the location of the log on the frame. When performing such work, it is imperative to follow all safety rules so as not to injure yourself and other workshop workers.

You need to use only serviceable products for these purposes, and the sawing process at the very beginning should be supervised by a specialist who will teach you all the intricacies. You can watch the process in this video:

Choose the right coolant
Numerous experiments conducted by American researchers led them to the conclusion that it is wrong to use water as a lubricant when operating band saws. There is no need to use lubricant at all until the sawdust begins to “roll” onto the saw. If this happens, the optimal lubricant should be used: a mixture of 50% diesel fuel and 50% oil for lubricating chainsaw tires.
This mixture should be sprayed evenly on both sides of the band saw blade. Moreover, in this case, ordinary car glass cleaners work excellently. There should not be a lot of cooling solution; the operator will easily notice by the characteristic sound when it is time to “cool down”.
Using such a lubricant instead of water will also allow you to reduce the number of bloomed boards and extend the life of the belts on the drive pulleys of the sawmill, since they will no longer “go limp” from sawdust and water falling on them.
Relieve tension from the band saw as soon as you stop cutting.
During the process of sawing wood, the blade heats up, and therefore stretches and increases in length. As they cool, the saws tend to shrink back to their original size. This is where overloads appear, in other words, excess voltage. The blade also “records in memory” the shape of both pulleys of the sawmill, which also does not make its life carefree long. Add to this the inevitable deformation of the belts on the pulleys, which leads to additional vibration of the blade, as well as the “hump” on the belt that becomes wrinkled over time, which ensures self-centering of the saw on the pulleys.
Band saws - correct wiring
The layout can be considered optimal when there is a mixture of 65-70% sawdust and 30-35% air between the cutting blade and the wood being processed. The ejection of 80-85% of sawdust from the cut indicates that your saw is set correctly.
If the saw spread is too large, a large amount of loose sawdust will remain on the cut, and, most likely, characteristic nicks and scratches will remain on the surface of the board.
With a small saw spread, tightly compressed, hot sawdust remains on the surface of the board. You simply can’t imagine anything worse for a saw. The sawdust should be warm to the touch, not hot or cold.
A saw that is set too far will most likely work jerkily, and a saw that is not set too far will leave “waves” on the board.
Example. When sawing a log with a diameter of 30 cm at a good feed, everything goes like clockwork. Don’t think that everything will work out just as well with a log with a diameter of 60 cm, because now you need to remove twice as much sawdust from the cut. Right! Divorce should be increased (by approximately 20%). Therefore, in addition to other recommendations, we allow ourselves the following: before sawing, you should sort the logs by diameter.
Remember that only the upper third of the tooth should be separated, and in no case under the “root”. After all, only the sharp corner at the very top of the tooth should participate in the sawing process. Do not forget also that the softer the wood you cut, the larger the spread should be.
And, of course, the sequence of operations is extremely important: the blade is sharpened after setting, and not vice versa. Sharpening will remove 0.002-0.003 inches, so this should be taken into account when setting.
And finally, never turn off your intuition; formulas will not help here.
The importance of regularly checking the adjuster indicator
Do not forget about such a device on your adjustable device as an indicator. It costs nothing to reset its settings. It works in an extremely intense mode, judge for yourself: your saw has approximately 220 teeth, you sharpen the saw 15 times, it turns out that during the life of the saw the indicator is triggered 3.5 thousand times. The indicator wears out over time, so you should check its installation more often.
Band saws - tooth shape
If the thought has occurred to you that the saw will work perfectly regardless of what shape the tooth has, drive that thought away. The tooth shape has been developed and verified over the years. Why would you try to reinvent the wheel?
Practical advice: when you go to buy blades again, ask for a piece of blade about 30 centimeters in size, make a hole in it and chain it to the sharpening machine. Here is a standard by which you can copy the shape of a tooth!
Some problems that arise during the operation of band sawmills and ways to solve them
When entering the wood, the saw “jumped up”, and then it worked smoothly until the end of the log, after which it fell down. This is the so-called “squeezing” or “squeezing”, that is, when the saw is wrung out. Most likely, the reason is that the tooth sharpening angle is too large. Try decreasing the angle by 2 degrees.
When entering the wood, the saw went up. The result is a board curved like a saber. The reason is that the sharpening angle of the tooth is too large with insufficient setting. Try decreasing the tooth angle by 2 degrees, and increasing the set point by 0.002-0.003 inches per side.
The saw dives and then goes straight. This behavior is due to several reasons, for example, the cutting blade has become dull. However, most likely, the sharpening angle is small, or maybe the sharpener simply did not set the stone in time. Look at the blade carefully; if the shape of the tooth seems ideal to you, then you should increase the sharpening angle by 2 degrees.
The saw “dives”, and the resulting board is curved, like a saber. The sharpening angle is small and at the same time the setting is insufficient. You should increase the sharpening angle by 2 degrees and increase the spread by 0.002-0.003 inches per side.
There is too much sawdust left on the board that feels loose to the touch. The divorce is too big. If you look closely, you can see characteristic scratches across the board. Divorce should be reduced.
The sawdust on the board is compressed and hot to the touch. Divorce is not enough. Should be increased.
Wave-shaped cut. If the saw is sharp, then this is due to too small a gap, you should increase the gap by 0.006-0.008 inches per side. Remember, working with an undone saw is the most serious violation of technology, leading to blade breakage!
The fabric is cracking at the trailing edge. This is caused by the fact that the rear stops of the guide rollers are too far from the rear edge of the web. This distance should not exceed 0.3 mm.
Sawdust is “rolled” onto the saw blade. The gap is small and there is not enough air left in the cut, excessive friction on the sawdust occurs, which leads to heating and “baking” of wood dust on the metal. Increase the spread by 0.005 inches per side.
The sawdust “rolls” on the inner surface of the tooth, but this does not happen on the surface of the saw. Poor quality of sharpening (too high feed or too much metal removal, and, consequently, poor quality of the surface on the tooth cavity), or too high a sharpening angle of the tooth. Or they continued to saw with the blade after it had already become dull.
After regrinding, the blade becomes covered with cracks in the tooth socket. This is usually due to a change in tooth geometry. Compare the tooth geometry with the original one. Last but not least note. Many problems are created by not refilling the sharpening stone frequently and accurately enough.
If you consider the recommendations mentioned above to be unimportant, you may not adhere to them. Remember, no matter what perfect machine you purchase, it remains a device for “running” the saw blade through the wood. 90% of the result depends on the correct maintenance of the band saw and only 10% on the overall setting of the machine!

Myths and reality of band sawing

Part 4.1
Setting the teeth of band saws
Any timber merchant planning to purchase a sawmill naturally hopes to make a profit. But you need to remember that for stable operation of a sawmill it is necessary to prepare saws with high quality. Moreover, this will have to be done almost daily. In previous articles, we talked about setting up the process of preparing band saws, about a new method of sharpening saws, and also started talking about one of the most difficult processes in preparing saws for work - the process of setting the teeth. In this post we will talk more about this process.
Work on band saw machines, or, as they are more often called, band sawmills, however, like on any other equipment, consists of two main parts - organizational and technical. Many people neglect the first part, in vain thinking that all organizational issues can be resolved directly in the process of work. The result of such neglect is a barely breathing or closed production. In this article I will try to describe the problems that should be solved before purchasing equipment.
We are often asked: which band sawmill and what configuration is best for sawing? It seems to many that our wealth of experience in communicating with hundreds of sawmill owners and with almost all of their manufacturers, knowledge of the problems they face every day, will help give an accurate answer to this “simple” question. In fact, in the list of questions about sawing, this, although very important, question should be in last place. Those who first bought a sawmill and only then thought about how to properly organize the work on it, usually organized this very work for a very long time, and some were not able to organize production at all in order to receive 500-1,000, and not 50-100 rubles per sawn product. cubic meter of lumber. Moreover, most often they blame all the failures on the fact that they bought the wrong sawmill.
In order to make a good profit when cutting sawlogs with narrow (27-60 mm wide) band saws, you first need to solve several basic issues. Moreover, without solving at least one of the issues listed below, it is better not to take on such sawing at all, because otherwise you will get a lot of problems and a complete headache.
1. It is necessary to work independently as a machinist and sharpener at an operating sawmill. Just work for 1-2 weeks, and not look at work for 1-2 hours. If you don't do this, you will never be able to understand the intricacies of production. As a result, machinists and sharpeners will give many reasons why they cannot work better, and you will not be able to correctly assess the correctness of their arguments, which means you are unlikely to get the maximum profit.
2. Will you be able to be in production almost every day for 10-12 hours for at least the first year in order to control and debug the entire work process? Do not think that you can entrust this to your partner, or even less so to a hired master. Unfortunately, a partner can rarely be trusted, and any hired craftsmen most often deceive entrepreneurs. I know more than one example where hired craftsmen live very well in poorly functioning industries without constant control of the owners.
3. It is necessary to decide how the sawlog will be cut:
a) to order, cutting out the required sizes of lumber from the sawlog, that is, non-optimally, each time losing 10-15% of the possible output volume, saving a little on warehouse costs;
b) with optimal cutting of each log, obtaining the maximum yield of lumber, but at the same time partially sending the finished product to the warehouse, with a delay in the sale of slow-moving sizes, that is, with a slight freeze in time of working capital, although in the end greater profit.
4. At first, will you independently cut sawn logs with optimal yield of lumber and train your assistant to work in this way so that you can then replace you, or do you already have an experienced machinist who will immediately work excellently, and not just “drive cubes.” Almost all machinists are paid for the sawn cubic meters of lumber, and not for the edged lumber obtained from this lumber. Therefore, it is more profitable for them to quickly cut thick boards, timber and take another log. Large slabs and large parts usually go to waste when cutting an unedged board. And this is lost profit. Depending on how well the production is organized, the percentage of finished products can range from 50 to 75%.
5. Decide how machinists will receive saws:
a) you will simply issue them as needed, that is, the machinists will not be interested in the long work of the saw and will be able to calmly tear them one after another, and you will only listen to their complaints that the framer does not know how to saw, and the sharpener sharpens the saws incorrectly, and count your losses;
b) interest everyone in caring for the saw and sawmill.
Here's an example. Payment to workers is calculated as follows: for cutting 1 m³ of lumber, the driver receives 76 rubles, two assistants - 62 rubles each. Only 200 rub. This includes the cost of a band saw based on cutting 40 cubic meters of lumber with one saw. If the saw cuts more before it breaks, the earnings are correspondingly higher. They began to cut more than 100 cubic meters with a saw. The only clarification: sawing is carried out with bimetallic saws. Deducted for a torn saw: from the driver - 450 rubles, from each assistant - 200 rubles. Only 850 rub. If the saw breaks on a nail, a new one is issued free of charge. The sharpener receives an average salary (if he serves several sawmills) from all machinists. Thus, they all have an interest in keeping their saws running for as long as possible. And now no one needs to keep an eye on them.
Machinists monitor the operation of the sawmill more closely, since even minor misadjustments (beating of the pulleys, walking of the saw on the pulleys, changing the correct settings of the guide rollers, uneven supply of coolant, grinding off of the cleaning scrapers, etc.) lead, in addition to the formation of waves on the lumber, to accelerated saw rupture, which is very disadvantageous for them. And any malfunction is easiest to eliminate at the beginning - there will be less defects, and subsequent possible large repair downtimes are practically eliminated. In order to avoid large amounts of waste, various fine systems can be used. As practice shows, drivers who have been fined once or twice cut much more competently. But all this works only when there are several teams and the driver, in extreme cases, can be replaced by an assistant. When the driver works alone, it is very difficult to cope with him.
6. Find a good mechanic in advance, that is, a person who will debug the operation of the sawmill and will constantly monitor it, maintaining it in good condition.
7. Solve the problem of the band saw preparation area, taking into account that any sawmill is only a device for pulling saws with a set of service functions. The quality of the lumber obtained during sawing (dimensional accuracy, straightness (without waves) of the surface) and the productivity of the sawmill (the amount of lumber sawn per unit of time, that is, the actual profit) depend almost entirely (with an adjusted sawmill) on the correct daily preparation of saws . There are two options:
a) find in advance a highly qualified sharpener who can try (most often unsuccessfully) to prepare saws daily using inexpensive, low-quality and outdated sharpening and setting machines. The result of such preparation is quickly torn saws, low-quality lumber (waves on the surface), low productivity;
b) you can buy right away, by paying a little more, good sharpening and setting machines, on which almost anyone can prepare saws with high quality every day and carry out sawing with maximum profit for themselves. How to choose the right sharpening and setting machines was described in previous issues of the magazine.
8. Decide how the sawing process will be organized:
a) with minimal costs, but also with minimal profit: sawing is carried out by one driver and one assistant, the saw unit works only 20-25% of the working time, the rest of the time is spent on feeding the log, preparing it for sawing (leveling, turning, etc. ) and removal of the resulting finished lumber;
b) with slightly higher costs, but in the end (due to increased productivity) an increase in real profits - the most common option. Sawing is carried out by one driver and two assistants, the saw unit is already working 25-35% of the working time;
c) with the highest possible productivity at minimal initial costs. Sawing is carried out by one driver with two assistants, but at the same time an additional 6-meter section is docked to the main rail track. Two logs are laid sequentially. Now, when one log is being sawed, the assistants perform the necessary operations on another. The saw unit operates 35-50% of the working time.
9. Decide which market you want to work in:
a) internal;
b) external.
When working for the domestic market, the productivity of the sawmill, due to a possible increase in the feed of the saw unit, can be 10-15% higher. The resulting small deviations of nominal sizes or a small wave on the surface are not of fundamental importance.
10. Decide what you want to cut at the sawmill:
a) sawing is not very fast, but very high quality (furniture panels, valuable types of wood, etc.), saw logs are mainly of large diameters (more than 40 cm);
b) cut mainly sawlogs with a diameter of up to 40 cm into edged lumber.
When working according to option a) you will need additional hydraulic or electromechanical devices, an electronic ruler, and an automatic return of the saw unit.
When working on option b) it is worth seriously considering how necessary these systems are. With all due respect to such systems, they improve working conditions at the sawmill, reducing its actual productivity by 10-20%, and they also constantly break down.
An experienced driver will adjust to the desired size much faster than electronics (the up-and-down movement control of the saw unit must be electromechanical) and return the saw unit back after cutting. I know many who started working with these electronic units, but then they were simply turned off so as not to interfere. Two assistants perform all operations with a log much faster than hydraulics or electromechanics, and even when actually working with logs with a diameter of 25-35 cm they practically do not get tired. It is only necessary that the stops are not screw, but eccentric. Do you agree to such productivity losses, especially since the installation of these systems, as a rule, doubles the cost of the sawmill?
11. Decide what actual diameters of saw logs you will cut:
a) mostly diameters greater than 40 cm - when sawing such sawlogs, you need a sawmill with pulleys of at least 600 mm, allowing you to work with a band saw up to 60 mm wide and a saw length of more than 6 m;
b) more than 90% will have diameters less than 40 cm - it’s worth thinking about whether you need to overpay significantly for the opportunity to cut three to five large logs per month. In extreme cases, they can be sawn in circles. With pulley diameters of 520-560 mm, the cost of a sawmill is usually up to 30% less. When cutting with a saw 32-40 mm wide and 4-4.5 m long, while obtaining the same quality of lumber and the productivity of the sawmill, you will not constantly overpay almost one and a half times for the width and length of the band saw with almost the same cutting of each cubic meter of sawlog before breaking.
12. Decide if you need a debarker. In my opinion, this is really not the most expensive, but very useful device, since it allows the band saw to work much longer before it becomes dull, especially if cutting a dirty log.
13. Decide if you need a laser pointer. This is also a very convenient device, as it allows assistants to position the log faster and more accurately, thereby increasing the productivity of the sawmill and reducing waste, which often increases with non-optimal cuts.
Only when you have resolved all the issues listed above can you begin to choose a specific sawmill with the necessary equipment. Let's return to the originally asked question. So, which band sawmill is better than others: it breaks less, cuts efficiently and is not very expensive? The paradox is that I cannot answer this question. Almost all manufacturers existing today have been producing sawmills for 10-15 years or more. Rich experience has allowed the designers of these industries to develop and produce very good new modifications of sawmills, which in terms of parameters are practically not inferior to foreign analogues, and at an order of magnitude lower in price. You can get real profits much faster by building your production on the basis of Russian sawmills. But the problem with all our productions is that our manufacturers could always develop and produce a prototype and show a polished model at exhibitions, and receive diplomas for these design works. But, unfortunately, almost no one can constantly produce high-quality products. Making a high-quality weld, manufacturing components for precise compliance with all necessary parallelisms and perpendicularities only in special conductors, the concept of tolerances when connecting components of 0.01 mm or 0.1°, high-quality electrical wiring connections and much more, that is, everything that can be called in one capacious expression - production culture is still an almost impossible requirement for many of our manufacturers. Therefore, when purchasing a sawmill from a Russian, Belarusian, or Ukrainian manufacturer, you should always remember that you are buying a construction set that you will assemble and bring to a greater or lesser extent to normal condition in the first 1-3 months. There's nothing scary here. It’s just that at the initial stage you definitely need either good personal experience or the presence of a competent mechanic. But then these sawmills will work no worse than imported ones, and the money saved can be used in the form of working capital or spent on the purchase of additional equipment.
They talk and write a lot about the low productivity of sawing sawn logs with band sawmills operating narrow saws 27-60 mm wide.
For reference, I will give the following figures: with a well-functioning sawmill, high-quality preparation of the saw and organization of the sawing process according to option 8b, the average yield of edged lumber should be 1 m³ per hour with a real yield of 70-75% of the finished product from the log. With proper organization of production, working in several shifts, it is realistic to receive 400-600 m³ of finished edged lumber per month from only one sawmill.
Now, if you independently calculate all the initial costs, productivity, and the actual output of finished products from one log, you can be convinced that sawing up to 3 thousand m³ of sawn logs per month with band sawmills operating narrow saws 27-60 mm wide will be the most economically feasible compared to all other cutting methods.
I am sure that all the talk about the impossibility of working productively and obtaining good quality lumber at sawmills of this type is being conducted by those who simply failed to properly organize the work of their production.

How to work correctly on band sawmills

Advice from professionals
1. GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE MACHINE
The horizontal band saw machine is used for sawing wood of any hardness into boards, beams, and slats. Sawing occurs by moving the saw frame with the cutting tool (band saw) along the fixed rail guides of the band sawmill.
The use of a band sawmill allows you to:
produce boards with high surface quality from the material
get a board with an accuracy of 2 mm. with a length of 6 m;
band sawmill allows you to reduce waste by 2-3 times,
reduce energy costs;
quickly adjust the sawing size,
The band sawmill is capable of sawing short workpieces (from 1.0 meters) and producing products up to 2 millimeters thick.
The band sawmill operates under UHL 4 conditions (GOST 15150-69). The band sawmill is equipped with an electromechanical saw unit lift.
2. “Band sawmills” - operation and design:
2.1 Main components and parts of the band sawmill:
A bed that moves along rail guides in a horizontal direction;
Saw frame;
Saw frame lifting mechanism;
Electrical cabinet;
Log clamp;
Movable slider of the driven pulley;
Drive pulley;
Driven pulley;
V-belt drive;
Rail guides for band sawmill;
Band saw tensioning mechanism;
Band saw mounting connector;
Band sawmill pulley housing
Coolant reservoir
Fixed saw guide
Saw guide is movable
The bed of the band sawmill has a U-shape and soles with rollers for moving the saw frame along the rails and felt brushes that clean the guide from sawdust. The saw frame is lifted by two sliders located on the bed posts. The movement is carried out by a two-way, synchronously connected chain transmission, driven by an electric motor, through a gearbox.
The frame is made of two channels, which are located parallel and connected to each other. The driving saw pulley is fixedly fixed on one end of the frame, and the driven one, which has the ability to move longitudinally, is fixed on the other. The saw blade of the band sawmill is tensioned by a spring-screw mechanism, the spring dampens the thermal expansion of the saw band. When making a band sawmill, the tension is calibrated for a saw 35 centimeters wide. The risks on the tensioner body and washer are equal to a tension force of 525 kilograms. In the front beam of the band sawmill and on the slider of the driven pulley there are two locks for removing and installing the saw blade. On the brackets located in the middle of the frame there are two band saw guides (movable and fixed), which are equipped with support rollers and an adjustment system and bar. Torque is transmitted from the sawmill engine to the drive pulley by a V-belt drive. The coolant reservoir is mounted on top of the saw blade protection. The liquid supply is regulated by taps located on the tank. The control panel for the band sawmill is located on the top crossbar of the machine.
The guides are collapsible from 3 sections, which is convenient for transportation. At the bottom there are support plates into which anchor bolts are screwed. On top of the guides of the band sawmill there are log supports. The log is fixed on the rail guides with four screw clamps and a stop that provides 90 degrees.
3. ADJUSTING THE SAW PULLEYS
3.1. The machine provides for adjustment of the position of both pulleys in relation to each other in the horizontal and vertical planes. It is necessary to ensure that the band saw with a tension of 6-8 kg/mm2. in cross-section, one branch did not come off the rims of the saw pulleys.
3.2. First of all, the pulleys are adjusted in the vertical plane, setting them at right angles to the saw frame. To do this, on the slider of the driven pulley, a bolt Ml0 is screwed from below to its axis, and on the drive pulley, adjustment is carried out by installing spacer washers or plates. This operation is carried out by the manufacturer.
3.3 To regulate the position of the horizontal plane saw pulleys, two bolts Ml2 are screwed into the ends of the frame from the side of the driving pulley, and one bolt is screwed into the axis of the driven pulley.
It is necessary to adjust the pulleys of the band sawmill in the following sequence:
3.3.1 Turn off the power supply circuit breaker on the control panel.
3.3.2 Open the protective covers of the saw pulleys.
3.3.3 Place the band saw on the pulleys so that it protrudes beyond the edges of the pulleys by the height of the tooth plus 2-5 mm.
3.3.4 Close the movable connectors (locks).
3.3.5 Tension the band saw by turning the tension mechanism nut to the optimal value for this type of band saw (at the rate of 6-8 kg/mm2).
3.3.6. By rotating the driven pulley with your hand as you cut (counterclockwise), you need to see what position the band saw will take on the pulleys. If the belt runs outward by an equal amount from both pulleys, then, without weakening the tension of the saw, release the lock nut Ml6, which secures the axis of the driven pulley to the saw frame (saw frame slide).
3.3.7 Then loosen the M12 lock nut and screw in the Ml2 bolt a small amount, then tighten the M12 lock nut and M16 lock nut.
3.3.8 Repeat point 3.3.6 and if the tape runs out, repeat the adjustment until the correct result is obtained.
3.3.9 If the tape runs inward by an even amount, then it is necessary to loosen the tension of the band saw.
3.3.10. Loosen the lock nut Ml6, the lock nut M12 and unscrew the M12 bolt a small amount, then tighten the M12 and M16 nuts.
3.3.11 If the tape has taken the position according to the instructions, then the adjustment has been performed correctly.
3.3.12 If the band saw immediately runs away from the drive pulley when rotating, then adjustment should begin with it.
3.3.13 To do this, depending on the direction of the belt running (outward or inward), loosen the left or right lock nuts Ml6 and make adjustments in the same sequence as on the driven pulley.
3.3.14 After adjustment, tighten all nuts.
3.3.15 Close the doors of the saw pulley housings.
3.3.16 Turn on the automatic power supply. energy on the control panel.
3.3.17 Briefly turn on the drive of the saw pulleys and make sure that the saw blade is in the correct position. The machine is ready for use.
4. REQUIREMENTS FOR SAW BLADES
1. During the operation of the band sawmill, to increase the service life of the band saw, it is necessary to properly tension it on the pulleys.
1.1 The amount of tension, depending on its width, is determined using a “Tensometer” device.
1.2 Attention! The band saw should not be in operation for more than 2 hours. After this time, it must be removed from the machine and hung freely for at least 24 hours to relieve fatigue stress.
2 Use the correct lubricant for the band saw blade.
In most cases, simply water or water with the addition of detergent (“Fairy”, etc.) is enough as a cutting fluid (coolant). However, at low temperatures it is best to use a mixture of 50%-80% diesel fuel or kerosene and 50%-20% motor oil or oil for lubricating chainsaw tires. The use of turpentine also gives good results when sawing coniferous trees.
If water is used as a coolant, it is necessary to wipe the pulleys and belt with oil after completion of work.
3. Always loosen the band saw tension.
When you are finished, release the tension from the saw. During operation, the blades heat up and stretch, and then as they cool, they contract by tenths of a millimeter during each cooling period.” Therefore, belts left on pulleys under load overload themselves and develop an imprint from the two pulleys, which causes cracks to appear in the spaces between the teeth.
4. Use correct tooth set.
The alignment is correct if in the space between the saw blade and the wood being processed you have 65-70% sawdust and 30-35% air. If your teeth set is too wide for the weight or thickness of the wood available, there will be too much air and not enough sawdust in the cut. You will have excessively large losses due to sawdust, and as a result, greater roughness of the wood being processed. If the clearance is insufficient, you will not get a strong enough air flow to remove sawdust from the cut. A sign of this is hot sawdust. This can cause the most devastating damage to the saw: operating intervals will be short and the saw will fail prematurely. The sawdust should be cool to the touch. And finally, if the cut is insufficient and the sharpening angle is incorrect, the saw will cut a wave on the board. From our point of view, you cannot work with logs of different diameters, timber and beams using the same tooth set.
You must sort the timber.
For every 20-25 centimeters increase in size, it is necessary to increase the wiring by approximately 18%, depending on whether the wood is hard or soft, wet or dry. The only way to achieve the desired layout is to carry out test cuts on a specific log. Increase the setting by 5-8 hundredths of a millimeter on each side until tooth marks become visible. This means that you are working with a 50/50 mixture of air and sawdust. After this, reduce the tooth set by 8-10 hundredths on each side, and you will achieve the desired result. Please note: You should only spread the top eighth of the tooth, not the middle or bottom. You don't want the gap between the teeth to be completely filled when sawing. When you work with softwood, whether wet or dry, the chips expand in volume to 4-7 times their cellular state. Hardwoods, wet or dry, only expand 1/2 to 3 times in volume. This means that if you are sawing 45cm pine logs, you will need to set the teeth 20% wider than when cutting 45cm oak logs. Always space your teeth before sharpening.
5. Sharpen your saw properly.
There is only one way to sharpen band saw blades. The stone should travel down the surface of the tooth, around the base of the cavity between the teeth, and up along the back of the tooth in one continuous motion.
You must maintain the profile of the tooth and interdental cavity.
The space between the teeth (gallette) is not a sawdust bin. The power flow of air, cooling of steel and removal of sawdust depend on it.
If you have the correct teeth set, air is supplied along the log at the same speed as the saw, as a result of which sawdust is sucked into the gallet. The sawdust cools it significantly as it passes around the inside and outside of the next tooth. It is necessary that the space between the teeth be filled by 40%, which will provide the necessary cooling and increase the operating time of the saw.
6. Set the correct sharpening angle.
Thanks to the deep gallets, we can use reduced sharpening angles, which transfer less heat to the tip of the tooth. The tape series uses a 10 degree hook angle that is capable of penetrating most medium hard to medium soft wood surfaces.
The general rule is this: the harder the wood, the smaller the sharpening angle.
Warning: Do not trust the scales and measuring rulers on your sharpening machine!
The pins and guides on it wear out. During the work, the profile of the stone changes.
To check the correct sharpening angles, use a protractor. Attention; We recommend changing saws every two hours of continuous operation, allowing them to rest for at least a day.
During the operation of the machine, there is a need to regulate individual components in order to restore their normal operation.

Is your band sawmill installed and all the necessary settings made? So it’s time to proceed directly to the sawing process itself. In order to obtain truly high-quality material, it is necessary to correctly install the log and secure it with special clamps.

The quality also depends on the correct calculation of the quantity and type of material you want to get from this log.

Having gained further experience, one glance at a log will be enough, and you will already know how much and what kind of material can be obtained from it. Learn to accurately determine where the top is and where the butt part of the log is. The butt part is usually larger in diameter than the apex. And this largely affects the thickness of the slab.

How to calculate a log

So, you have measured the diameter of the log, and it is measured from the top. We calculate the approximate amount of material according to the diameter and proceed to further actions.

Firstly.

We pay attention to all the bends and bulges of the log - a perfectly straight trunk is rare. Therefore, we try to turn it so as to get as little waste as possible from it, such as croaker. When the log is laid and fixed, you should make sure that it passes freely between the guide rollers.

Set the diameter size on the ruler of the sawmill, and to this size add the greatest height of the convexity of the log. This is the bulge that is higher than the diameter of the top or narrowest part of the log.

Using a regular tape measure, measure the height of the highest part, and from this size you begin counting the dimensions of the required material, taking into account the size of the cut, which ranges from 2 to 5 mm.

Secondly.

As soon as the width of the cut reaches the required size, and the remaining height of the log has reached the desired size, it is turned over. That is, if you cut a beam, for example, at 150, then both the width of the cut and the height of the remaining log should correspond to this value, even be greater, taking into account the removal of the slab.

To do this, after turning the log over, start calculating from the final size until the full height of the log is used, but do not forget to take into account the size of the cut, which, as we already know, ranges from 2 to 5 mm.

For example, you have a log on your overpass that you have cut to a size of 260 mm. Let's turn the log over and continue.

The final result we want to achieve is a carriage with a thickness of 150 mm. Next, in a simple way, calculate that 260 mm-150 mm = 110 mm. We get as much as 110mm of extra material thickness. And it is precisely this that needs to be calculated correctly.

We take this additional size and calculate it to get the block, which has a size of 50 mm, 110-50 = 60, don’t forget the cut, and ours is 2 mm, 60-2 = 58 mm, then the plank, equal to 25 mm, 58 -25-2=31 mm, hump 20 mm, 31-20-2=9 mm.

As you can see, from our calculations, we get 9 mm slab, 20 mm slab, 25 mm gorge and 50 mm block. And the final size will be 150 mm.

Possible mistakes

As you can see, there is nothing complicated here. Often, inexperienced sawmills make mistakes in calculations when they start counting from zero. For example, if the final size of the material is 150 mm, then there is no need to add 2 mm to it for the cut, otherwise it will be 150 + 2 = 152. There should not be such an error, the cut is calculated only between the material, for example, 50 mm board and 150 mm carriage, we obtain as described above, 150 + 50 + 2 = 202 mm.

If it is necessary to obtain edged material, we turn the log 90 degrees and perform the same manipulations as described above.

So you have cut your first log, look at the quality of the material and the accuracy of the dimensions. Make sure your calculations are correct. The main mistake when making calculations is that they forget to take into account the size of the cut. Try to take this fact into account. And don't make such mistakes.

In the future, when you gain experience, the calculation will happen automatically in your head; it will be enough to look at the log.

We are sure that everything will work out for you, we wish you success in your work.

How to properly cut a log on a band sawmill

Is your band sawmill installed and all the necessary settings made? This means it’s time to proceed directly to the sawing process itself. In order to obtain truly high-quality material, you need to correctly install the log and secure it with special clamps.

The quality also depends on the correct calculation of the quantity and type of material you want to get from this log.

Having gained further experience, one glance at a log will be enough, and you will already know how much and what kind of material can be obtained from it. Learn to accurately determine where the top is and where the butt part of the log is. The butt part is usually larger in diameter than the apex. And this largely affects the thickness of the slab.

How to calculate a log

So, you have measured the diameter of the log, and it is measured from the top. We calculate the approximate amount of material according to the diameter and proceed to further actions.

Firstly.

We pay attention to all the bends and bulges of the log - a perfectly straight trunk is rare. Therefore, we try to turn it so as to get as little waste as possible from it, such as croaker. When the log is laid and fixed, you should make sure that it passes freely between the guide rollers.

Set the diameter size on the ruler of the sawmill, and to this size add the greatest height of the convexity of the log. This is the bulge that is higher than the diameter of the top or narrowest part of the log.

Using a regular tape measure, measure the height of the highest part, and from this size you begin counting the dimensions of the required material, taking into account the size of the cut, which ranges from 2 to 5 mm.

Secondly.

As soon as the width of the cut reaches the required size, and the remaining height of the log has reached the desired size, it is turned over. That is, if you cut a beam, for example, at 150, then both the width of the cut and the height of the remaining log should correspond to this value, even be greater, taking into account the removal of the slab.

To do this, after turning the log over, start calculating from the final size until the full height of the log is used, but do not forget to take into account the size of the cut, which, as we already know, ranges from 2 to 5 mm.

For example, you have a log on your overpass that you have cut to a size of 260 mm. Let's turn the log over and continue.

The final result we want to achieve is a carriage with a thickness of 150 mm. Next, in a simple way, calculate that 260 mm-150 mm = 110 mm. We get as much as 110mm of extra material thickness. And it is precisely this that needs to be calculated correctly.

We take this additional size and calculate it to get the block, which has a size of 50 mm, 110-50 = 60, don’t forget the cut, and ours is 2 mm, 60-2 = 58 mm, then the plank, equal to 25 mm, 58 -25-2=31 mm, hump 20 mm, 31-20-2=9 mm.

As you can see, from our calculations, we get 9 mm slab, 20 mm slab, 25 mm gorge and 50 mm block. And the final size will be 150 mm.

Possible mistakes

As you can see, there is nothing complicated here. Often, inexperienced sawmills make mistakes in calculations when they start counting from zero. For example, if the final size of the material is 150 mm, then there is no need to add 2 mm to it for the cut, otherwise it will be 150 + 2 = 152. There should not be such an error, the cut is calculated only between the material, for example, 50 mm board and 150 mm carriage, we obtain as described above, 150 + 50 + 2 = 202 mm.

If it is necessary to obtain edged material, we turn the log 90 degrees and perform the same manipulations as described above.

So you have cut your first log, look at the quality of the material and the accuracy of the dimensions. Make sure your calculations are correct. The main mistake when making calculations is that they forget to take into account the size of the cut. Try to take this fact into account. And don't make such mistakes.

In the future, when you gain experience, the calculation will happen automatically in your head; it will be enough to look at the log.

We are sure that everything will work out for you, we wish you success in your work.

moyapodsobka.ru

How to use a ruler on a band sawmill

Hello dear readers and subscribers of Andrey Noak's blog. In this article I will tell you how to use a ruler on a band sawmill, as well as useful tips from professionals.

The band sawmill allows you to cut lumber into slats, beams and boards to specified sizes. The sawing process occurs due to the movement of the frame with the cutting device along fixed guides.

My books

As many blog readers already know, I periodically release some useful and goodies, so this time I wrote such an e-book!

Working with technical conditions for the sale of lumber, for example, in winter a third grade appeared in our country, and in the summer (during the season) it disappeared and turned into the first grade;

In order for sawing at the sawmill to proceed without any problems or complaints, you should pay attention to the following factors that may arise during the work process:

• Uniform feeding speed of material during operation;
• Correct blade shape;
• Carrying out the correct layout of the saw;
• Do not allow resinous substances to stick to the canvas;
• Watch the saw teeth.

Measures to increase the service life of a band sawmill

1. For sharpening, use a specialized tool;
2. During work, monitor the tension of the saw, monitor the width of the cut, the speed of material supply, the quality and cleanliness of the cut;
3. If possible, use logs (lumber) from 40 to 70 cm in diameter. Such a log is easy to position on the frame. When cutting, the optimal yield of the finished material occurs;
4. Select the correct tooth profile for the wood being processed. This will reduce saw wear and increase the speed and quality of the equipment;
5. Measure the moisture content of the material and only after that select the tooth set and choose the correct cutting speed;
6. Application of debarkers. They, in turn, will process the upper surface of the log before sawing. This equipment will prevent sand, dirt and small stones from getting on the cutting part of the machine;
7. Pay attention to the tension of the tape. This will lead to optimization of sawing speeds, quality of processing and will allow timely detection of wear of equipment parts;
8. Check the belts both before and during operation of the machine for wear. If there is high wear on the drive belt, an unfavorable situation will arise when the belt comes into contact with the pulley. This will damage the saw;
9. Make sure that no sawdust accumulates on the belts. This will lead to vibration, which in turn will affect the operation of the equipment;
10. The log should be fed as quickly as possible. Reducing the feed speed will cause the saw to run idle. This will lead to decreased performance and increased saw wear;
11. During operation, monitor the equipment, the condition of the bed, adjust pulleys and rollers. Carry out all work according to the recommendations. Do not violate safety rules while working.

Application of electronic ruler

How to use a ruler on a band sawmill? This measuring tool will reduce the time for cutting logs. No need to count and estimate sizes. The ruler is easily attached to the machine. Operator productivity increases and there is no need to bother with mathematical calculations.



Types of line execution:

• Wooden;
• Metal;
• Sticker;
• Electronic.

There is a graduation on the ruler, which allows you to know the thickness of the board taking into account the cut.

Compared to the wooden version, an electronic ruler is an expensive tool. An electronic saw control unit is used as a scale. The principle is simple. Set the board thickness parameters and start. Operations are carried out automatically. I will describe in more detail how it all works in a new article.

Video on the topic

andreynoak.ru

Sawing logs on a band sawmill: tables, diagrams

To process logs on a band sawmill, it is necessary to adhere to the accepted technology. This way you can get the maximum amount of high-quality materials - boards and timber. But first you should familiarize yourself with the basic cutting rules.

Types of wood cutting

Log cutting diagram

At the first stage, a carriage is formed from a log. To do this, cuts are made on both sides of it. In some cases, processing is performed on four sides. A map of the strip cut of the workpiece is first drawn up, on which the dimensions of the components are indicated.

The determining parameter when choosing a scheme is the direction of processing of the log. In particular, the movement of the cutting edge relative to the annual rings. According to this, lumber of various qualities is formed, with a unique appearance. Not only their aesthetic qualities, but also their price depend on this.

The following types of cuts are distinguished:

• tangential. The cut is made tangentially to the annual rings. As a result, oblong patterns in the form of arches and rings are formed on the surface;
• radial. To perform it, perpendicular processing along the annual rings is necessary. A special feature is the uniform pattern;
• transverse. Processing occurs across the fibers, the cut pattern is an even cut of annual rings;
• rustic. Can be made at any angle, contains a certain number of knots, sapwood or other similar defects.

The woodworking industry often uses waste from band sawing logs - slabs. On one side there is a flat plane, and the other remains unprocessed.

To create the most accurate cutting, it is recommended to use special programs. They take into account not only the dimensions of the source material, but also the type of wood.

Sawing on a sawmill with log rotation 180°

Cutting map with 180° rotation

To form the maximum number of boards, it is recommended to use a technology in which some belt processing processes are rotated 180°. This allows you to achieve the maximum amount of lumber with different types of cuts.

The principle of processing is to make initial cuts along the edges of the log, located at an angle of 90° relative to each other. They will serve as the basis for further tape cutting. The work is carried out on equipment with a vertical arrangement of cutting elements. The diameter of the trunk must be at least 26 centimeters.

Step-by-step order of work.

1. Processing the side with the cut-off edge. The result is two boards.
2. Rotate the workpiece by 90°. The cut is made from the opposite part. The number of products varies from 3 to 4.
3. Repeated turn 90°. The main part of the source material is processed. Depending on what you plan, you may end up with 7-8 pieces.

Despite all its positive qualities, this method has one significant drawback - low production speed. It is recommended to use it on equipment that has a block for automatically changing the position of the log relative to the cutting part of the machine.

The detailed diagram is most often used for the production of rustic boards, which have lower quality requirements.

Sawing on a sawmill with log rotation 90°

Types of sawing

For the manufacture of tangential and radial boards, it is recommended to use a different technique. It consists of systematic strip processing of logs with simultaneous analysis of defects. In this way, products of the required quality can be obtained.

After delimbing, the workpiece is placed on the feed bed of the sawing machine. Then you need to complete the following steps.

1. Removing the primary slab. This is carried out until the width of the base is 110-115 mm.
2. Removal of unedged boards approximately 28 mm thick.
3. If the number of defects on the surface exceeds the required level, the material is rotated 90°. If the quality of the board is sufficiently high, the next one is cut.
4. Repeating the operation.

A similar technique is applicable for processing units that have one cutting surface or have the function of temporarily dismantling the rest.

If there is a sufficiently large number of defects, you can not put the workpiece aside, but rather process it by turning it 180°.

The above-described strip processing technique can be used to create any configuration of wooden products. Often the core area is used to form timber, and the remaining parts are used to make boards. But there may be exceptions - it all depends on the required shape of the blanks.

The quality of work is affected by the current state of the sawmill, the level of sharpening of the saws and the processing speed. These factors must be taken into account before starting the production process. If necessary, preventive maintenance or repair of equipment is carried out.

Log cutting table

The video shows the technique of sawing logs on a homemade band sawmill:

stanokgid.ru

video instructions for DIY installation, how to correctly cut wood in half, lengthwise, radial method, machine, calculation, diagram, photo and price

All photos from the article

Sawn logs are boards, beams, veneer and other wooden building materials known to us. The task of competent and efficient sawing of trunks is extremely important when logging independently or industrially; in addition, knowledge of the basics will help you choose the right lumber.

We will look at the main points regarding this topic and tell you how to properly cut a log on a band sawmill.

Cutting logs on a band sawmill is considered the most effective.

Log sawing

The main task

The photo shows a corner sawmill.

In the old days, entire tree trunks were used to build houses and other structures, from which so-called log houses were assembled. However, cylindrical cone-shaped parts are not best suited for construction, so they began to make boards and beams from logs.

The proportion of solid logs used in construction is vanishingly small, so the logger must master the art of sawing the forest into boards and timber, otherwise he will go broke. This skill will also be useful for those who decide to do the preparation themselves for the needs of private construction.

The wood is used primarily in the form of planks.

So, we are faced with the task of turning an ordinary log into the maximum amount of high-quality useful lumber with minimal expenditure of energy, time and raw materials. That is, we must find a way in which efficiency will be maximum and costs will be minimal.

Here it should be said right away that the solution does not come down to solving a geometric puzzle; in practice, everything is much more complicated. Wood is a heterogeneous material, so the result is influenced by a large number of nuances and subtleties, which we will discuss in more detail in the following chapters.

The heterogeneity of the wood structure complicates the task of sawing it.

Important! The task of sawing is to obtain the maximum amount of high-quality lumber at minimum costs per unit of time.

Cutting methods

Special equipment will help you understand how to cut a log lengthwise.

As already mentioned, the correct calculation of cutting a log should take into account not only geometric parameters and cutting, but also the heterogeneity of the structure of the material.

The fact is that wood exhibits its properties differently depending on the orientation of the annual rings (layers): the processes of warping and deformation during drying are most clearly manifested along the layer, when the plane of the board coincides with the plane of the annual ring.

Not only beauty, but also quality depends on the cutting method.

To understand how to cut a log correctly, you should know the basic cutting methods:

• The radial method is considered the highest quality and is distinguished by the fact that the annual lines at the end of the board form an angle of 76 - 90˚ relative to its plane, and the cut line passes through the core of the trunk like a radius. The result is a board that is fairly uniform in color and texture, which practically does not swell when moistened and does not deform when dried. Radial cut lumber is considered the highest quality, its price is the highest;
• The tangential method, on the contrary, is the least preferable and is distinguished by the fact that the lines of the annual rings run almost parallel to the plane of the board or tangentially. The coefficients of swelling from moisture and shrinkage in the case of tangentially sawn boards are approximately two times higher than with radial sawing. In general, such boards are less durable and of lower quality, but at the same time they can have a very beautiful fiber pattern;
• The rustic method is something in between - the angle of inclination of the annual lines in relation to the plane of the product is in the range of 45 - 76˚. This group also includes a mixed type of cutting, which may contain elements of arcs, both during tangential sawing, and inclined and even perpendicular lines. In properties, these groups are a cross between the radial and tangential groups;
• Central cut. It is made in the center of the trunk and includes its core. Such boards are considered the least durable and most heterogeneous of all of them.

Methods for sawing logs.

Important! Most construction lumber is produced by rustic sawing, and there is also quite a lot of tangential lumber. When purchasing, you can easily distinguish them by eye.

Sawing schemes

You should decide on a work plan in advance.

One of the most important tasks of the sawyer is to choose the most rational cutting scheme. The compliance of materials with the goals set, the amount of output per unit volume of forest and, as a result, the profit of the enterprise will depend on this.

The master must have impressive experience and a special flair for the material in order to determine in advance the order of work, where to start and how exactly to act in the process. Such a skill comes only with time as a result of long work at the sawmill.

There are three standard log cutting schemes:

Scheme for sawing logs on a band sawmill with step-by-step instructions.

Important! The cutting scheme is selected in accordance with the quality of the raw material, the purpose of the board and the capabilities of the equipment.

Sawing tool

Modern band sawmill.

Logging is carried out using a special tool. For normal work by today's standards, you need a special machine for cutting logs with your own hands, which is called a sawmill.

There are two types of sawmills: disk and belt. Circular saws use circular saws and are considered less efficient, as they have a larger cutting thickness (from 6 to 9 mm), less accuracy and depth.

Disc sawmill.

The band sawmill is equipped with a different system: the saw is a band mounted on rotating rollers. The cutting thickness is approximately 1.5 - 3 mm, which is quite economical in terms of waste to chips.

Modern models are distinguished by high accuracy and productivity; they are automated and have a tilting mechanism for lifting and turning logs in the case of circular sawing or sawing timber.

Using a chainsaw, you can only cut a log in half, but if you use a special frame, you can cut the log into boards right in the forest.

Working with a frame and a chainsaw.

Important! The band sawmill is considered the most efficient and cost-effective.

Conclusion

Sawing logs is considered one of the most difficult and important tasks in logging and lumber production. The quality of the product and the income of the enterprise depend on the chosen scheme, well-designed work order and preparation of the tool.

The video in this article will tell you about the types of sawmills and methods of cutting wood.

rubankom.com

How to learn to saw on a band sawmill

Wood has long been in great demand among humans. Houses were built from it and fortifications were erected. This substance is still in great demand today not only for construction purposes, but also as a decorative material.

There are a huge number of wood products that are produced mainly at sawmills. You can purchase such products on the manufacturer’s website skvagena.com.ua.

Let's start getting acquainted

The band sawmill is a rather complex mechanism consisting of several parts:

• the frame of the sawmill on which all its components are located;
• base for placing the tree in a horizontal position.

In order to start working with this type of sawmill, you first need:

1. 1Familiarize yourself with all the main parts of the mechanism and study the principle of their operation.
2. Learn how to change the saw and start the device.
3. Gain skills in adjusting the position of the tape relative to the horizontal plane. This factor is very important, since the size of the product obtained in the future depends on it.

It is advisable to begin work under the supervision of a person who has extensive experience in performing this procedure.

Cutting process

After you have learned how to turn on, configure and change some components of the system, you can start cutting. It is very important to understand how best to position the log and how to fasten it.

To do this, consult a specialist and let him give you instructions, where you will see all the nuances step by step. Before starting the saw, be sure to check the tension of the belt, as well as the level of its sharpening.

The quality of the resulting board depends on these parameters. The first few times, make the cut under the supervision of a specialist who will tell you all the nuances, since there are quite a lot of them and it is difficult to remember them the first time.

When cutting, the saw should enter the tree smoothly and without much pressure, as otherwise this may lead to its breakage. Carry out the cut carefully, without sudden movements.

Remember that the quality of the product depends on the sharpening and setting of the teeth of the belt, its correct placement on the machine and the location of the log on the frame. When performing such work, it is imperative to follow all safety rules so as not to injure yourself and other workshop workers.

You need to use only serviceable products for these purposes, and the sawing process at the very beginning should be supervised by a specialist who will teach you all the intricacies. You can watch the process in this video:

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securos.org.ua

Let's learn how to saw correctly on a sawmill. Rules for working at a sawmill.

Rules for cutting with a band saw.

Every owner of a band sawmill naturally counts primarily on two things: excellent work, that is, high cutting accuracy, and a long service life of the band saw. Band cutting saw - this is quality, high performance over a long period of operation. With the right approach, this is quite possible; moreover, it is something to strive for.

First, you need to correctly assess your needs and choose the right band saw for your sawmill.

Secondly, as a rule, the reason for the low performance of a band saw is its improper preparation and operation.

To ensure smooth band saw cutting, do not ignore factors such as:

Reducing the feed speed when sawing;

Irregular blade shape;

Resin sticking to the canvas;

A defect in the setting of the teeth, when the bend line of the tooth is located too low and passes along the saw blade, as a result, a wave appears, the feed speed is forced to decrease, and, as a result, premature wear of the saw occurs.

You can increase the strength of the band saw blade and, therefore, the period of its operation, if:

1) use special sharpening devices;

2) during the sawing process, it is necessary to control the tension of the saw, the width of the cut, the feed speed, the quality and cleanliness of the material being cut;

3) if possible, use logs of large (40-70 cm) diameter, they are easier to position on the machine bed, and when cutting them, the optimal amount of finished product is obtained;

4) select the tooth profile depending on the characteristics of the wood - this improves the quality and speed of sawing, reducing saw wear;

5) select the tooth setting and cutting speed depending on the moisture content of the material;
6) whenever possible, use cleaned logs for sawing, since dirt, sand, and stones irreversibly damage the blade. Use debarkers, which remove the top outer layer of the log before the saw enters the wood;

7) monitor the tension of the band saw. Sufficient tension is important to optimize sawing speed and quality, and to prevent wear on the saw;

8) monitor the condition of the belts on the pulleys; if the belts are highly worn, contact between the band saw blade and the pulley is possible, leading to the rupture of the saw 9) do not allow sawdust to accumulate on the belts and between the belt and the pulley - the vibration that occurs for this reason wears out the saw;

10) the log feeding speed should be as high as possible. Reducing the speed is fraught with the fact that the band saw moves idle, productivity decreases and the saw blade wears out;

11) high-quality cutting with a band saw is ensured by the machine settings, the condition of the bed, and periodic adjustment of pulleys and rollers (according to the manufacturer’s recommendations).

Many operators, especially those who lack the necessary experience, encounter difficulties when sawing frozen wood with bandsaws. It is especially unpleasant if the wood is not completely frozen, and there are unfrozen areas in the log, i.e. different densities.

Meanwhile, the problem is being solved.

And yet, how to saw frozen wood on a band sawmill. Much, when sawing with band saws, depends on the correct selection and preparation of the band saw, much depends on the geometry of the tooth.

Firstly, saws designed specifically for sawing hard and frozen wood are very effective in this case (for example, Wood-Mizer wood band saws with a 4/32 profile, or “winter” profile saws 9/29)

Secondly, pay attention to the tooth alignment. When working with frozen logs, it makes sense to reduce it to 15-18 or even less, to 12-14.

The performance of a band sawmill is usually influenced by an individual combination of various factors, so if this is your first time working with frozen wood, it is advisable to experiment. Using three saws, make three settings: recommended, smaller, and even smaller. Work with all three saws, evaluate the result and then use the optimal layout.

How to work correctly on band sawmills

Advice from professionals

1. GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE MACHINE

The horizontal band saw machine is used for sawing wood of any hardness into boards, beams, and slats. Sawing occurs by moving the saw frame with the cutting tool (band saw) along the fixed rail guides of the band sawmill.

The use of a band sawmill allows you to:

produce boards with high surface quality from the material

get a board with an accuracy of 2 mm. with a length of 6 m;

band sawmill allows you to reduce waste by 2-3 times,

reduce energy costs;

quickly adjust the sawing size,

The band sawmill is capable of sawing short workpieces (from 1.0 meters) and producing products up to 2 millimeters thick.

The band sawmill operates under UHL 4 conditions (GOST 15150-69). The band sawmill is equipped with an electromechanical saw unit lift.

2. “Band sawmills” - operation and design:

2.1 Main components and parts of the band sawmill:

A bed that moves along rail guides in a horizontal direction;

Saw frame;

Saw frame lifting mechanism;

Electrical cabinet;

Log clamp;

Movable slider of the driven pulley;

Drive pulley;

Driven pulley;

V-belt drive;

Rail guides for band sawmill;

Band saw tensioning mechanism;

Band saw mounting connector;

Band sawmill pulley housing

Coolant reservoir

Fixed saw guide

Saw guide is movable

The bed of the band sawmill has a U-shape and soles with rollers for moving the saw frame along the rails and felt brushes that clean the guide from sawdust. The saw frame is lifted by two sliders located on the bed posts. The movement is carried out by a two-way, synchronously connected chain transmission, driven by an electric motor, through a gearbox.

The frame is made of two channels, which are located parallel and connected to each other. The driving saw pulley is fixedly fixed on one end of the frame, and the driven one, which has the ability to move longitudinally, is fixed on the other. The saw blade of the band sawmill is tensioned by a spring-screw mechanism, the spring dampens the thermal expansion of the saw band. When making a band sawmill, the tension is calibrated for a saw 35 centimeters wide. The risks on the tensioner body and washer are equal to a tension force of 525 kilograms. In the front beam of the band sawmill and on the slider of the driven pulley there are two locks for removing and installing the saw blade. On the brackets located in the middle of the frame there are two band saw guides (movable and fixed), which are equipped with support rollers and an adjustment system and bar. Torque is transmitted from the sawmill engine to the drive pulley by a V-belt drive. The coolant reservoir is mounted on top of the saw blade protection. The liquid supply is regulated by taps located on the tank. The control panel for the band sawmill is located on the top crossbar of the machine.

The guides are collapsible from 3 sections, which is convenient for transportation. At the bottom there are support plates into which anchor bolts are screwed. On top of the guides of the band sawmill there are log supports. The log is fixed on the rail guides with four screw clamps and a stop that provides 90 degrees.
3. ADJUSTING THE SAW PULLEYS

3.1. The machine provides for adjustment of the position of both pulleys in relation to each other in the horizontal and vertical planes. It is necessary to ensure that the band saw with a tension of 6-8 kg/mm2. in cross-section, one branch did not come off the rims of the saw pulleys.

3.2. First of all, the pulleys are adjusted in the vertical plane, setting them at right angles to the saw frame. To do this, on the slider of the driven pulley, a bolt Ml0 is screwed from below to its axis, and on the drive pulley, adjustment is carried out by installing spacer washers or plates. This operation is carried out by the manufacturer.

3.3 To regulate the position of the horizontal plane saw pulleys, two bolts Ml2 are screwed into the ends of the frame from the side of the driving pulley, and one bolt is screwed into the axis of the driven pulley.

It is necessary to adjust the pulleys of the band sawmill in the following sequence:

3.3.1 Turn off the power supply circuit breaker on the control panel.

3.3.2 Open the protective covers of the saw pulleys.

3.3.3 Place the band saw on the pulleys so that it protrudes beyond the edges of the pulleys by the height of the tooth plus 2-5 mm.

3.3.4 Close the movable connectors (locks).

3.3.5 Tension the band saw by turning the tension mechanism nut to the optimal value for this type of band saw (at the rate of 6-8 kg/mm2).

3.3.6. By rotating the driven pulley with your hand as you cut (counterclockwise), you need to see what position the band saw will take on the pulleys. If the belt runs outward by an equal amount from both pulleys, then, without weakening the tension of the saw, release the lock nut Ml6, which secures the axis of the driven pulley to the saw frame (saw frame slide).

3.3.7 Then loosen the M12 lock nut and screw in the Ml2 bolt a small amount, then tighten the M12 lock nut and M16 lock nut.

3.3.8 Repeat point 3.3.6 and if the tape runs out, repeat the adjustment until the correct result is obtained.

3.3.9 If the tape runs inward by an even amount, then it is necessary to loosen the tension of the band saw.

3.3.10. Loosen the lock nut Ml6, the lock nut M12 and unscrew the M12 bolt a small amount, then tighten the M12 and M16 nuts.

3.3.11 If the tape has taken the position according to the instructions, then the adjustment has been performed correctly.

3.3.12 If the band saw immediately runs away from the drive pulley when rotating, then adjustment should begin with it.

3.3.13 To do this, depending on the direction of the belt running (outward or inward), loosen the left or right lock nuts Ml6 and make adjustments in the same sequence as on the driven pulley.

3.3.14 After adjustment, tighten all nuts.

3.3.15 Close the doors of the saw pulley housings.

3.3.16 Turn on the automatic power supply. energy on the control panel.

3.3.17 Briefly turn on the drive of the saw pulleys and make sure that the saw blade is in the correct position. The machine is ready for use.

4. REQUIREMENTS FOR SAW BLADES

1. During the operation of the band sawmill, to increase the service life of the band saw, it is necessary to properly tension it on the pulleys.

1.1 The amount of tension, depending on its width, is determined using a “Tensometer” device.

1.2 Attention! The band saw should not be in operation for more than 2 hours. After this time, it must be removed from the machine and hung freely for at least 24 hours to relieve fatigue stress.

2 Use the correct lubricant for the band saw blade.

In most cases, simply water or water with the addition of detergent (“Fairy”, etc.) is enough as a cutting fluid (coolant). However, at low temperatures it is best to use a mixture of 50%-80% diesel fuel or kerosene and 50%-20% motor oil or oil for lubricating chainsaw tires. The use of turpentine also gives good results when sawing coniferous trees.

If water is used as a coolant, it is necessary to wipe the pulleys and belt with oil after completion of work.

3. Always loosen the band saw tension.

When you are finished, release the tension from the saw. During operation, the blades heat up and stretch, and then as they cool, they contract by tenths of a millimeter during each cooling period.” Therefore, belts left on pulleys under load overload themselves and develop an imprint from the two pulleys, which causes cracks to appear in the spaces between the teeth.

4. Use correct tooth set.

The alignment is correct if in the space between the saw blade and the wood being processed you have 65-70% sawdust and 30-35% air. If your teeth set is too wide for the weight or thickness of the wood available, there will be too much air and not enough sawdust in the cut. You will have excessively large losses due to sawdust, and as a result, greater roughness of the wood being processed. If the clearance is insufficient, you will not get a strong enough air flow to remove sawdust from the cut. A sign of this is hot sawdust. This can cause the most devastating damage to the saw: operating intervals will be short and the saw will fail prematurely. The sawdust should be cool to the touch. And finally, if the cut is insufficient and the sharpening angle is incorrect, the saw will cut a wave on the board. From our point of view, you cannot work with logs of different diameters, timber and beams using the same tooth set.

You must sort the timber.

For every 20-25 centimeters increase in size, it is necessary to increase the wiring by approximately 18%, depending on whether the wood is hard or soft, wet or dry. The only way to achieve the desired layout is to carry out test cuts on a specific log. Increase the setting by 5-8 hundredths of a millimeter on each side until tooth marks become visible. This means that you are working with a 50/50 mixture of air and sawdust. After this, reduce the tooth set by 8-10 hundredths on each side, and you will achieve the desired result. Please note: You should only spread the top eighth of the tooth, not the middle or bottom. You don't want the gap between the teeth to be completely filled when sawing. When you work with softwood, whether wet or dry, the chips expand in volume to 4-7 times their cellular state. Hardwoods, wet or dry, only expand 1/2 to 3 times in volume. This means that if you are sawing 45cm pine logs, you will need to set the teeth 20% wider than when cutting 45cm oak logs. Always space your teeth before sharpening.

5. Sharpen your saw properly.

There is only one way to sharpen band saw blades. The stone should travel down the surface of the tooth, around the base of the cavity between the teeth, and up along the back of the tooth in one continuous motion.

The space between the teeth (gallette) is not a sawdust bin. The power flow of air, cooling of steel and removal of sawdust depend on it.

If you have the correct teeth set, air is supplied along the log at the same speed as the saw, as a result of which sawdust is sucked into the gallet. The sawdust cools it significantly as it passes around the inside and outside of the next tooth. It is necessary that the space between the teeth be filled by 40%, which will provide the necessary cooling and increase the operating time of the saw.

6. Set the correct sharpening angle.

Thanks to the deep gallets, we can use reduced sharpening angles, which transfer less heat to the tip of the tooth. The tape series uses a 10 degree hook angle that is capable of penetrating most medium hard to medium soft wood surfaces.

The general rule is this: the harder the wood, the smaller the sharpening angle.

Warning: Do not trust the scales and measuring rulers on your sharpening machine!

The pins and guides on it wear out. During the work, the profile of the stone changes.

To check the correct sharpening angles, use a protractor. Attention; We recommend changing saws every two hours of continuous operation, allowing them to rest for at least a day.

During the operation of the machine, there is a need to regulate individual components in order to restore their normal operation.

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How to saw on a band sawmill

A band sawmill is a machine that produces boards and beams from wood that meet technical standards.

You can choose a high-quality machine for these purposes on the website http://www.enerteh.ru/catalog/lenpil/.

Nuances of work

In order to use a band sawmill for a long time for high-quality work, it is necessary to choose a band saw depending on your goals and use it correctly.

When operating a band saw, the following points should not be ignored:

• damage to the tooth alignment;
• accumulation of resin on the saw;
• blade curvature;
• slowing down the feed when sawing.

A band sawmill is a machine whose operation is based on passing a saw blade through wood material, so the quality of work on it depends 9/10 on the correct fulfillment of the requirements for servicing the band saw.

To do this you need:

1. Feed the log at the highest speed to prevent idling of the saw, leading to its wear.
2. Clean the belts from sawdust in a timely manner to block vibration.
3. Monitor machine settings.
4. Adjust saw blade tension.
5. Select material for processing that is free of debris and contaminants.
6. Adjust the tooth alignment according to the moisture content of the wood.
7. It is better to work with large radius logs.
8. Use the necessary sharpening tools.

The main points in the operation of the saw:

• tooth height;
• tooth setting;
• toe angle;
• sharpness of the tooth.

The saw must be properly seated on the pulleys. The belts on the pulleys must be of the correct thickness to increase the service life of the saw.

To make work go faster, it is important that the roller guides are located in the desired position. With this, when cutting, the saw blade will be firmly fixed and its productivity will increase.

For high-quality operation of the band sawmill, it is necessary to abandon the use of water as a lubricant. To do this, it is better to take ½ diesel fuel and ½ oil for lubricating chainsaws.

This solution should be sprayed on both sides of the saw blade. The quality of the saw will improve, and the amount of wood bloom will decrease.

For long-term operation of a band sawmill, it is necessary to monitor the saw layout, use a tooth shape specially created for high-quality work, and promptly carry out technical inspection and maintenance of the machine.

How to saw on a band sawmill Taiga T1b:

Find out from which part of the trunk they were cutboards or timbercan be determined by the pattern of the growth rings, looking at their end, as well as by the number of knots on the boards or beams. The butt part of the trunk is always thicker than the top part and, as a rule, has no branches, that is, it contains higher quality wood.

From the middle part of the log, so-called technological wood raw materials are obtained - wood that is supplied for mechanical (for the production of chipboard, fiberboard) or chemical (for example, for hydrolysis production) processing. The remaining butt part of the log is sawn into two or three parts, which are supplied to sawmills.

At sawmills, logs are produced into lumber by sawing them parallel to the longitudinal axis.

Among the lumber there are:

timber (width and thickness more than 100 mm)

segmented timber or quarters (obtained from a log sawn into four parts)

bars (up to 100 mm thick and no more than twice the width)

Boards (thickness up to 100 mm, width more than double thickness)

obapol - side parts of the log

slats - thin boards and bars cut during longitudinal sawing

In addition to the listed main lumber, there are also so-called semi-finished products, in particular, tongue-and-groove and profiled boards, plinths and other molded products

The thickness of the boards coming out of the saw frame is determined by the distance between the blades of the saw frame

1 - timber is cut from the heartwood of the log;
2 - when receiving half beams, the log is sawn along the longitudinal axis;
3 - when receiving segmented beams, the log is sawn crosswise along the longitudinal axis;
4 - during group sawing (tumble), unedged boards are obtained in one pass of the log through the sawmill frame;
5 - with individual sawing with blocking, during the first pass through the frame, double-edged beams, slabs and side boards are obtained;
6 - the most difficult is radial sawing of logs, which produces floorboards with vertically arranged growth rings;
7 - during the second pass, the double-edged beam is turned 90° and cut into

Edged boards, separating the side wane from it;
8 - for boards with horizontally located growth rings, the front side is called the side facing the core (core), and the back is the side facing the sapwood (peripheral part of the trunk)

1. The outer layer of bark, which protects the tree from cold and heat, and therefore from intense evaporation of moisture.
2. Through the inner layer of bark (bast), the tree receives the nutrients necessary for its development. As the tree grows, the bast dies off and joins the outer layer of bark.
3. Between the bast and the wood itself there is a cambium, which ensures the growth of the tree in thickness and the formation of annual rings.
4. Sapwood - external, active wood layer adjacent to the cambium and supplying the tree with moisture. The older inner layers of sapwood gradually recede towards the core.
5. The internal dead layers of wood, no longer nourished by moisture, form the core (kernel), which, due to its strength, is the load-bearing and supporting core of the tree