How to properly install a toilet in an apartment. Your own plumber: we install the toilet ourselves. Method #1: Fan pipe or plastic pipe

The work of installing new plumbing is a source of concern for many novice craftsmen. The variety of design solutions for plumbing fixtures and methods of connecting them requires the contractor to know the intricacies of the process.

We will try to reveal the main ones and analyze how to correctly install a toilet with your own hands without the help of plumbers.

The range of plumbing fixtures on the market is varied. Any owner has the opportunity to choose presentable and functional equipment to suit his own taste and budget.

In addition to traditional floor-standing models, manufacturers offer a wide selection of wall-hung and built-in devices. The drain tank in them can be attached to the wall or connected to the base of the plumbing fixtures.

The design of the bowl of floor-standing and hanging models can be anything, for example, a dish-shaped, funnel-shaped or even a visor modification

The latest toilet models also differ in the design of key components.

The output discharge is:

• horizontal;
• vertical;
• oblique.

The type of outlet drain should be taken into account when choosing a model. If your plans do not include reworking the sewer pipe supply, then in the installed model the drain should be arranged according to the same principle as in the dismantled one.

Inconsistent drains and plumbing supply, provided that it is not a toilet with an outlet, are almost impossible to combine as tightly and efficiently as possible.

Fixation of plumbing fixtures to the floor is carried out using specially made two or four fastening points. But you can also find models in which the corners included with the product are used for fastening to the floor.

A new plumbing fixture can be placed in the place of the old one, or you can choose another “corner” for it, making a small redevelopment in the bathroom.

Preparation of tools and materials

To connect the tank to the water supply you will need a flexible hose. It usually comes included. For connection to the sewer - a rigid or bendable corrugated cuff.

It is impossible to do a high-quality installation of a toilet with your own hands without a minimum set of necessary tools that any owner has in his home.

To assemble the structure and connect to communications you will need:

• hammer drill or impact drill;
• a set of screwdrivers with flat and Phillips blades;
• set of wrenches;
• building level;
• a simple pencil or marker;
• stationery knife;
• roulette;
• chisel;
• hammer.

If the installation of plumbing fixtures will be carried out on tiles, then it is also necessary to prepare a “ballerina” or a spear-shaped drill for working on tiles. To make holes for installing fasteners, you will also need an 8 or 10 mm drill.

Auxiliary materials will also be required:

• metallized tape;
• silicone sealant;
• FUM tape;
• polyethylene film;
• moisture-absorbing piece of fabric;
• container for collecting liquid.

Depending on the type of model being connected and the installation method, cement mortar may also be required.

Removing an old toilet

Removing an old toilet is one of the most time-consuming operations.

The work is carried out in several stages:

1. Turn off the tap.
2. Disconnect the hose going to the tank from the water supply and drain the water from it.
3. The empty tank is removed from its mounts.
4. Unscrew the nuts located on the back of the toilet and disconnect it from the sewer. To loosen the drain, the toilet needs to be rocked from side to side.
5. Drain the remaining water from the toilet by tilting the bowl forward.
6. The sewer hole closer to heaven is cleared of dirt and temporarily blocked with a rag gag or a wooden plug of suitable diameter.

The easiest way to remove the bolts is to hold the head with an open-end wrench and unscrew the nut with an adjustable wrench. If the threaded connections are heavily slagged with salt deposits or rusted.

To make the task easier, use universal lubricant “WD-40”, which can loosen deposits in a matter of minutes. In the absence of one, you can use vinegar or kerosene.

The sewer hole must be closed so that toxic hot gases do not spread beyond the pipeline

If rotten taffeta or any other support is found under the dismantled toilet, it must be removed. This can be done with a hammer drill, nail puller or chisel.

In older houses, drains on sewer pipes are often secured with cement coating. The easiest way to knock down dried mortar is with a chisel, pricking it in several places. Read detailed instructions for dismantling an old toilet.

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Option #2 – with horizontal outlet

Plumbing fixtures with horizontal outlet have become one of the most popular in our country. The relevance of installing such equipment is explained by the specifics of the wiring of the sewerage system in Russian apartments.

The main feature of toilets with a straight horizontal outlet pipe is that for proper installation a strictly fixed connection point to the communications is required

The horizontal outlet is located at the back of the bowl or base and is directed backwards. Models with this design are installed end-to-end with the wall, connecting to any type of sewer riser location.

The connection is made using pipes of the appropriate size. The connection is sealed by placing a sealing rubber inside the pipe.

Direct connection is made only if the sewer system is made of plastic. To connect to cast iron pipes, the circumference of which rarely has an ideal shape, cuffs and eccentrics are used.

Option #3 – with oblique release

The socket in models with an oblique outlet is located at an angle of 45° relative to the floor surface. Models with an inclined outlet are superior to their counterparts in that they are less likely to become clogged, since this design makes it possible to create less resistance when moving solid sewage.

The weak point of devices with oblique outlets is the connection points between the product and the sewer pipe, which can become covered with cracks if installed incorrectly

Connecting a device with an oblique outlet to the sewerage system can be done in one of three ways:

1. By direct connection through the sewer branch socket. They are chosen when there is no need to move the plumbing fixture, and the direction of all elements clearly coincides. The toilet outlet is treated with soapy water and buried in a socket equipped with a cuff.
2. Connection via eccentric. A socket with a center offset of 5 cm, equipped with a sealing gasket, is mounted in the sewer outlet and by rotating the toilet is shifted to the right or left side.
3. By installing a corrugated outlet. The use of corrugation makes it possible to deploy the relative oblique sewer outlet device even at an angle of 90°.

A flexible outlet, although convenient, is far from the best means for connecting toilets with an oblique outlet. It should be used only in extreme cases, when other methods are not possible.

To find out in more detail how to install a toilet with an oblique outlet, go to.

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The simplest option for connecting a toilet with an oblique outlet is to use corrugation, which ensures perfect tightness

If a long-term connection is not made with the help of corrugation, then you need to use a reinforced version of the corrugated pipe

Using a corrugation, a toilet with an inclined outlet can be connected to a drain located in the floor or wall

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The toilet is an integral plumbing fixture in any apartment, as well as in many private homes. The need to replace it is a common occurrence; the cause may be a breakdown that does not allow for repair, or a desire to update the interior of the bathroom. You can change the earthenware product yourself; it will require time and some skills in the field of plumbing installation. But if you want all the work to be done as quickly and efficiently as possible, it’s easier to turn to a professional. One question remains - where to find a conscientious craftsman who is ready to install a new plumbing fixture at an affordable cost? Here you can not only find specialist contacts, but also explore affordable offers.
A competent craftsman will take into account all possible nuances and install the product on a turnkey basis for any system - with an oblique or direct outlet, wall-hung or floor-mounted, with various types of flushes, a regular or compact tank. During the work, it is important to correctly place the rack located inside the structure; it is responsible for stopping the water supply after filling the container, securely fasten the screws and connect the flexible connection to the water supply pipes. Installing a toilet is a responsible task, so do not trust it to amateurs and do not do it yourself without the necessary skills. How much does it cost to install or replace a plumbing fixture? It all depends on the type of fixation and the need to dismantle old equipment. The contractor makes the final verdict after inspecting the object.

If this is your first time thinking about installing a toilet, this article is for you. Moreover, it’s better if you have time to read it before you go to the store for a new “faience friend” or before you start finishing the toilet room.

The fact is that modern toilets are so different that they have very different types of fastening, flushing, sewerage, etc. So, ideally, you should start planning which toilet you will install with your own hands already at the toilet design stage.

What to do if there is an old “throne” in the toilet - how to remove it without a global flood? We will also talk about this in the article. Features of the installation process, a step-by-step guide and a few tips from the experts will help you save money and install the toilet yourself without any problems.

It is impossible to plan a comfortable toilet without taking into account the features of the toilet that will be installed there.

To understand what exactly needs to be done, you need to know:

• Is it necessary to dismantle a toilet that has served its purpose and carry out major repairs in the toilet (including cladding, repair and installation of sewer lines and floor screed);
• what are the dimensions of the new plumbing fixtures - will it not clutter up the space and will it allow your door to open quietly;
• what type of mounting does your future toilet have?
• what is the method of flushing the toilet;
• at what height do you want to install the plumbing?

If you know the answers to all these questions, all that remains is to dismantle the old one (if necessary) and install a new toilet.

Let us remind you that floor plumbing is divided into several types. It differs in shape and structure.

Classification according to bowl shape:

• funnel-shaped;
• disc-shaped;
• visor.

Toilet bowls have an outlet flush:

• horizontal oblique;
• vertically designed.

The flush cistern can be combined with the toilet bowl or independent (wall-mounted).

Toilet bowls are attached to the floor: for 2 and 4 attachment points, for corners.

Down with the old toilet!

Surely your toilet that needs to be dismantled is not wall-mounted, which means it is attached to the floor. You can remove it from the toilet in just 7 steps.

1. Turn off the water and drain it from the tank in the toilet.

   

2. Unscrew the thin hose that goes to the tank.

   

3. Unscrew the tank fastenings. If they are rusty or “stuck”, you can water them, leaving them for 5-7 minutes, with a special product that will dissolve the lime. Or you can simply rip the bolts off using a screwdriver and an adjustable wrench. Also, in order for the bolts to yield, you can spray the mount with “WD”, kerosene compound, etc., in advance.
4. Following the cistern bolts, you need to unscrew the toilet mountings. They usually look like a nut screwed onto an anchor. To make the process easier, use the same techniques as when working with the tank mounts.

   

5. Next, you need to unhook the toilet flush from the sewer pipe. If the toilet is old, then the drain at the attachment point is probably coated with cement for strength. You need to beat it off with a hammer and screwdriver. First you need to crumble the coating across the seam, and then you can mechanically destroy the cement. The drain should swing for now, but remain in place.

   

6. We tilt the toilet several times in different directions, thus draining the water remaining in the knee.

   

7. Ready. The old toilet can be unhooked and proudly carried to the trash heap, not forgetting to plug the gaping sewer hole with a plug made of plastic, fabric or wood.

   

If there are no plans for the old toilet, and you are seeing it off on its last journey, then after rocking it, you can split it with a sledgehammer so that it is not difficult to take it out. You will have to do the same if the fastenings of old plumbing fixtures are cemented.

After dismantling the toilet, assess the condition of the pipes in the room. Cast iron creates many problems; before installing new plumbing, it is recommended to change them to plastic. Also, plastic pipes greatly facilitate the process of installing a toilet and routing sewer drains (by the way, you can also read about installing plastic pipes with your own hands on our website).

Self-installation of plumbing “step by step”

For normal operation, the toilet needs a flat, tiled or specially prepared surface of the walls and floor.

1. First, we connect the toilet flush with a corrugated pipe to the outlet of the sewer riser pipe. You can also use a rigid pipe. The best option is if the toilet flush enters the riser without extension corrugations, etc. To seal the drain, we use a ring with a rubber border. It is important to take into account that rubber does not tolerate cement and similar coatings on its surface. But the sealant is quite suitable.

   

   Toilet installation - cuff

2. To introduce water, you need a flexible, fairly long hose that connects the tap that supplies liquid from the water supply to the tank of your plumbing. Pay attention to both inlet diameters to select a hose with two suitable fasteners. Obviously, there is no way to screw a 3/4” thread onto a pipe with a diameter of 1/8”.

   

   We take the cuff and apply silicone sealant and install it in the pipe

   

   

   

3. If the drain is securely connected, you can begin securing the plumbing.

   

   

   

We fix it to the floor: 3 types of fasteners

You can fix a toilet with a wall cistern without screws, just using resin. However, with this method of fastening, you must first clean the surface of the tile so that the glue sticks better. When using epoxy, it is important to allow the newly installed plumbing fixtures to dry thoroughly and adhere to the floor surface.

Mounting the toilet to the wall

Wall-hung toilets are being used more and more often. Their installation is not much more complicated than usual (by the way, you can read about installing a toilet bowl with your own hands on our website). A wall-mounted toilet, as its name implies, will not have contact with the floor surface. It is suspended using a metal frame, which is attached to the load-bearing wall itself. In this case, the toilet tank and pipes are located behind a false plasterboard wall. If the wall-hung plumbing fixture has an open tank, then you can fix it on the wall itself, but then the sewer pipe must be inside the wall. The structure will be held in place by the same anchors embedded in the wall or supporting frame.

After fixing the toilet bowl to the wall or floor, all that remains is to assemble the toilet. A tank is placed on the base, already securely fastened, or a pipe from a tank hung on the wall is connected to it.

All that remains is to check if the toilet works and if there are any leaks. Turn on the cold water, wait until the tank is filled, adjusting the filling level. We set up the locking mechanism according to the instructions. We wash it off and see if there is any leakage from the drain.

The last step is to screw the toilet seat. But here you can probably handle it yourself.

1. Before purchasing plumbing fixtures, first decide on the type of drain that suits you. If you do not plan to change the sewer riser supply, you need to choose the same type as in the used toilet. Remember: no adapters will help to properly connect a toilet with an unsuitable type of outlet.
2. Do not leave the choice and purchase of a toilet until the final stage of the renovation: it is better to prepare a place in the toilet in advance to facilitate the installation of plumbing.
3. Invest in nickel-plated bolts and anchors to secure the toilet to the floor or wall. They do not rust, which means that unsightly drips and sticking of bolts are excluded.

Installing a toilet yourself is not very difficult if you understand some of the details of how the system works. Before installing a new unit, the technician will have to dismantle the old one. It is also necessary to select a new toilet with a tank so that the set fits well in the bathroom. In this article we will talk about how to install a toilet with your own hands on tiles (tiles), and also demonstrate a video tutorial on installation.

Choosing a toilet

Before installation, you need to select the desired kit. Today, all the leading brands in the plumbing market produce many lines of different toilets and bidets. In order not to get confused in such a variety of models, you need to approach the purchase intelligently.

1. Material. First of all, you need to pay attention to the material from which the toilet is made. In stores you can find models made of sanitary ware, porcelain, cast iron and other materials. It is noted that porcelain has the best characteristics. It is easy to clean and does not absorb odors, which is important for such an item as a toilet. Many people purchase inexpensive sanitaryware. This material is still very popular, but it is not the best. Sanitaryware is porous, it perfectly absorbs odors, which are not so easy to get rid of.
2. Price. The cost of toilets today varies widely. It is not recommended to buy very cheap units, because they can cause a lot of trouble later. Poor-quality ceramics and components will force the owner to overpay the technician for system repairs in the future. At the same time, you should not buy too expensive units. It hardly makes sense to purchase a luxurious toilet with a golden leg for an ordinary city apartment.
3. Model. The range of toilet bowls is very wide. When buying a unit, you need to be guided by the size of the bathroom. If it is very small, then you can purchase a wall-hung toilet with a built-in flush system. This will save extra space. These toilets are very compact and look great. In large bathrooms, toilets with bidets will look good.
4. Tank design. Tanks can have a horizontal, vertical or inclined flush system. When choosing a kit, you must pay attention to this detail. The choice of flushing system depends on which one is functioning in the owner’s home.

Removing an old toilet

Dismantling the old unit occurs in several stages.

If the toilet is very old, then it is literally “grown” to the base. In this case, its dismantling will create some difficulties.

1. First you need to disinfect the toilet with bleach.
2. Next, you should be well equipped for the job. It is necessary to protect your hands and eyes from water and ceramic fragments.
3. It is necessary to turn off the water.
4. The remaining water is drained from the tank.
5. When everything is prepared, we need to start dismantling. First of all, the bolts that secure the toilet to the floor are removed. If the system is relatively new, you simply need to unscrew the bolts, remove them, and then disconnect the plastic tube from the sewer system. Then the pipe that serves to supply water is disconnected. After this, the toilet can be detached from the base.

Many people wonder how to properly install a toilet. First you need to properly prepare the place for the new unit.

1. The floor in the toilet is cleared of various debris and leftover materials.
2. The sewer hole and water supply system are covered.
3. In the place where the old toilet stood, you need to mark for the dowels.
4. The holes must be drilled with a diamond drill.
5. In the store you need to buy a set of screws and dowels for installing the toilet.

Basically, all toilets are installed the same way. The only differences can be in various additional options. Installation of the simplest toilet and the most complex is still based on the same principle.

1. First, the toilet is connected to the sewer hole. Having removed the temporary plug from the system, you need to put the unit in place and screw it to the floor.
2. It is better to pre-treat the screwing areas with silicone sealant.
3. Now you need to tighten the bolts on the heel of the unit.
4. After this, the corrugated sleeve is installed. Before installation, it must be properly treated with silicone sealant.
5. The final stage is the installation of the tank. Correct installation of the toilet cistern is the key to ensuring that the system will work without failures. The tank is secured with bolts. After this, a hose supplying water is installed.

Not the most difficult thing. The main problem most often occurs when adjusting the float. Installing a float valve requires care. When choosing a tank, you need to check which valve is included.

The float valve is responsible for regulating the water pressure.

The lower the valve is installed, the lower the water flow. It is necessary to ensure that during installation the water level does not reach the drain hole by 5 mm.

Video

The toilet installation process is discussed in detail in the following video:

You can find additional video about toilet installation in our video section:

Above we have already discussed the general principle of installing a toilet. Now we invite you to familiarize yourself with the intricacies of installing a toilet on tiles. It is immediately worth noting that there are 2 methods:

• Open.
• Closed.

But before you start work, you should prepare the necessary tools and material:

• perforator;
• Screwdriver Set;
• adjustable wrench;
• level;
• drill;
• drill:
• rubber spatula;
• core;
• hammer;
• silicone

This fastening method will require less time and labor. However, as for the aesthetic side, they are significantly inferior to the closed installation method. So, the first thing you need to do is determine the installation location.

The installed toilet should not interfere with other plumbing fixtures. It should be easy to access.

Marks are placed on the selected location on the tile. Holes will be installed at these locations. You should also draw the outline of the toilet seat. Next, carefully set the toilet aside and drill holes in the marked places, the diameter of which should be equal to the fastening element.

The drilling process is quite painstaking. You need to be careful not to let the glaze on the tile peel off too much. Therefore, first drill with a drill without impact and at low speeds. Also, as an option, you can use a core. Due to this, the drill will not slide over the tile and scratch its surface.

Then take a tile drill bit and drill a hole. After this, you will need a concrete drill. The depth of the hole must correspond to the length of the dowel. Now clean the hole from dust and fill it with sealant. In this case, the sealant will prevent dust and moisture from entering under the installed toilet. After this, insert the dowel.

Immediately before installing the toilet, also apply sealant in a wide strip to the drawn contour. This will completely prevent moisture from getting under the base of the toilet. Then came the last stage of installation:

• Carefully install the toilet on the tiles.
• Insert a self-tapping screw into the holes and screw it into the dowel.
• Special plugs are placed on the mount, which will give the overall appearance a more aesthetic appearance. Moreover, the plugs will protect the mount from moisture.
• Further, under the weight of its weight, excess silicone will appear.
• Before the silicone hardens, it must be removed with a rubber spatula.

Just as in the first case, outline the outline of the toilet on the floor, and also mark the locations of the holes. Before attaching the toilet, it is necessary to make outlet holes. The toilet itself is connected to the water and sewer pipes.

If heated floor technology is installed under the tiles in the bathroom/toilet, then the use of this type of fastening is prohibited. The toilet is installed using silicone, liquid nails, epoxy resin with hardeners. But in this case, it is first necessary to degrease the tiles and the toilet base. You should also treat the surface with sandpaper, giving it a slight roughness. This will provide better grip.

Wall-hung toilet

Another toilet design is wall-hung. Installation requires more work. As in the previous case, there are two methods for installing a wall-hung toilet:

1. For installation.

Therefore, it would be wise to consider these two technologies separately.

Installation on a concrete base

Some people refuse to buy a steel frame to install the toilet. In this case, the concrete monolithic base will be no worse, and even exceed it in strength. With this installation, rods are protruded from the base onto which the toilet is attached. In addition to holding the toilet, the concrete structure also serves another role. It contains a coupling for draining water.

The installation process has the following sequence:

1. Installation of drain coupling.
2. Determining the installation height of the toilet.
3. Preparation of panels for formwork. Their size should be 50 mm larger than the total size of the structure.
4. Accurate measurements between mounting holes. Typically, it is 200 mm. But depending on the model, the distance may be different.
5. For formwork you can use chipboard, OSB or board.
6. Installation and measurement of rod length. It is very important to take into account the following dimensions: thickness of the recess + distance from the toilet to the main wall (meaning the thickness of the poured concrete structure) + thickness of the toilet at the mounting location + length of the free end for tightening the nut.

Before making a hole, do a preliminary fitting. Hold the toilet bowl and bring it to the mounting location. If the holes match the marks and the bowl itself is installed in the middle, then you can continue installation work. If you notice some deviations or the holes are not level, take the measurements again.

Now we invite you to follow step by step the installation of a toilet on a monolithic concrete base:

• First, the formwork is installed.
• But first, two holes are drilled in the wall to install the rods that will later hold the toilet. It is enough to make a recess in the wall up to 150 mm deep.
• After clearing the hole of dust, pour glue into it and install threaded rods into it.
• Next you need to set up 3 shields. 2 side and one central, in which 2 holes should be made for mounting rods.
• Shields are installed strictly vertically. Also make sure that the rods extend horizontally through the shield.
• The shields are connected to each other with self-tapping screws. And for greater strength, you can screw the nuts onto the rods and use them to press the shield to the wall. To do this, it is recommended to place a washer.

• In the place where the water should drain from the tank, fix the foam.
• Also install a Ø110 mm sewer drain pipe. This pipe will eventually be filled with concrete. Therefore, check the quality of its connection on the rubber seals.
• At the next stage, concreting is carried out using cement, sand and crushed stone mixed with water.
• During this process, it is recommended to protect the ends of the rod from contact with concrete. To do this, put a bag on them or wrap them with a rag.
• When pouring concrete, it is necessary to achieve sufficient density. Especially in the corners of the structure. To do this, use a stick to pierce the poured concrete until “cement laitance” flows out of the cracks of the formwork.
• When the concrete has hardened, carefully dismantle the formwork.
• After this, the drain barrel is connected. Take PVC corrugation Ø40 mm. Insert one end into the recess of the toilet bowl. It is recommended to secure the corrugation with silicone sealant. Be sure to let it dry and only then continue working.

• Next, place the toilet bowl with the corrugation attached onto the mounting rods. Use a plastic washer and nut to secure.
• Finally, connect the hanging cistern to the toilet using a corrugation and test the drain.
• By installing the toilet lid, you can operate the toilet.

Now we invite you to familiarize yourself with the technology of installing a toilet on an installation. To do this, you should buy a toilet with a special metal frame. It is this that will need to be installed in the wall, and the toilet bowl will be attached to it.

• The steel frame is installed strictly vertically. It can be fixed to the wall and floor through special holes. Before you carry out major fastenings, check it for evenness.
• It is necessary to supply sewerage and water supply pipes to this place.
• You should also set the height of the toilet. It will depend on the height of the apartment owner. Typically, the height of the bowl is fixed in the range of 400–430 mm.
• As for the water supply to the tank, it is better to make it rigid. During installation work, the valve in the water supply tank must be closed.

• Next, the toilet is connected to the sewer. The connection occurs using corrugation. At this stage the drainage system should be tested. Therefore, you securely fasten the toilet to the frame, having previously connected it to the sewer pipe. Next, drain the water. If everything is sealed, then turn off the water in the tank and disconnect the toilet.
• Now you can cover the installation. You can use drywall for this. Attach the profile to the wall and screw drywall to it. At the same time, make holes for the sewer, fastening rods, and holes for the tank.
• At the next stage, cladding is done with ceramic tiles or other finishing material.
• After all these manipulations, the toilet bowl is installed.

The quality of installation of a wall-hung toilet completely depends on the correct installation of the frame. Therefore, perform this stage of work extremely carefully.

Some problems

Sometimes, after a couple of years of service, the toilet loses its original appearance. Traces of rust appear on it. This happens due to low-quality components of the tank. It is almost impossible to eliminate an old phenomenon of this type, especially if the unit is made of sanitary ware. When purchasing toilets, you must carefully monitor the quality of all components.

Water may damage the unit. The quality of water, as a rule, does not meet the standards to which units of Western brands are developed.

Sometimes the plastic elements in the tank design do not hold up. They can bend due to temperature changes or mechanical stress. If the tank fails prematurely, this indicates that the quality of the kit was not very high to begin with.

Problems with water flow often indicate that the float valve is not installed correctly. You need to adjust it, and the water consumption will be reduced.

In order for the toilet to retain its original appearance for many years, it is necessary to constantly keep it clean. You can use a number of products to care for it. For example, to avoid having to constantly wash and clean the inner surface, various gels and tablets are used today.

Of course, you can’t do without a thorough cleaning. Cleaning liquids will help with this.

Some substances should not be poured into the toilet. These include acetone and solvents that can damage the sewer pipe. Also, do not pour hot boiling water into the toilet, because this can cause the sanitaryware to crack. If there is a need to rinse the unit, it is better to use two buckets of hot water.

Baking soda and vinegar are indispensable tools for cleaning your toilet. If red stripes begin to appear on the surface of the unit, they can be eliminated with a solution of vinegar in hot water. Baking soda will gently and carefully clean the surface of dirt.

For severe contamination, use special solutions. They usually contain hydrochloric acid. There are different types of contaminants, so the range of cleaning products is also very wide. When purchasing, you need to clarify whether a specific composition is suitable for the product. They differ not only in the nature of the impact, but are also produced for toilets made of certain materials.

Plumbing equipment must be installed in compliance with building codes and regulations. Knowing this, many home craftsmen experience uncertainty in their abilities, and even real fear.

They turn to service companies for help, which demand decent sums of money for their services. But installing a toilet with your own hands is not at all as difficult as it might seem.

There are several ways to install plumbing fixtures; we will analyze each of them in detail.

The method of installing a toilet depends on the type of device and its design features. You can find two main types of equipment on sale; the technology for carrying out installation work will be completely different in each case. This:

• Floor standing toilets. Mounted directly on the flooring after finishing work in the room.
• Wall mounted toilets. They are installed using special fasteners at a certain height from the floor level. Installation of equipment is carried out before the start of repair work.

The floor-standing toilet is installed directly on the floor covering. This is the most common type of equipment

Wall-mounted plumbing fixtures are installed using special installation structures onto which the system is attached.

Floor-standing equipment can be mounted in two ways:

• internal, quite difficult to implement, but more aesthetically pleasing;
• external, when fastening is carried out using special technological holes on the base of the device.

In addition, the method of installation of a plumbing fixture depends on the method of its connection to the sewer. There are three options:

• Horizontal release. The device is connected to the sewer system exactly at a right angle.
• Vertical release. The sewer socket for connecting the device must be in the floor.
• Oblique release. Such equipment is connected to the drain pipe at a certain angle, most often its value is 45°.

Let's take a closer look at how to install a floor-standing toilet with your own hands.

Connecting the device to the sewer

To connect plumbing equipment to the sewer system, you can use various connecting elements:

• Fan pipe. A shaped product made of semi-porcelain, earthenware or porcelain. Quite difficult to install, it is used most often by professional craftsmen.
• Plastic pipe. Used when installing equipment located fairly close to the sewer pipe.
• Eccentric. A plastic part consisting of two pipes with offset centers. The special structure of the eccentric allows you to connect the toilet outlet and the sewer pipe even when the equipment is slightly displaced. The item is available in different sizes.
• Corrugation. A flexible plastic device that allows you to connect any type of toilet with a sewer socket. In this case, the location of the riser or pipe, as well as the device itself, can be any. Ideal for self-installation of equipment.

Let's look at different ways to connect a toilet to a sewer system.

Method #1: Fan pipe or plastic pipe

This fastening assumes that shaped elements connect the toilet outlet to the sewer socket. Please note that working with such elements on your own can be quite difficult, especially if for some reason it is not possible to move the toilet to the riser at the required distance.

In this case, you will have to use other connecting elements or invite specialists. If the sewer hole is conveniently located and the toilet fits it, you can do the work yourself.

Using plastic pipes, you can make any complex configuration necessary to connect the toilet. When installing such a system, do not forget about the special rubber seals

When installing a vertical or horizontal connection, it is important to use special rubber seals: cuffs, inserts, etc., which should be included with the connecting elements. The parts provide a reliable and tight connection, however, you can additionally use sealant for insurance.

We place the plumbing fixture at the connection point and insert its outlet part into the sewer socket, not forgetting about the seals and sealant.

After this, the toilet can be fixed to the floor.

If you decide to connect the toilet to the sewer using a waste pipe, you need to remember that the outlet of the equipment and the socket of the waste pipe must fit perfectly together. It is not possible to move the device

Method #2: Eccentric

When connecting to a sewer using an eccentric, it is not necessary to use a sealant, since the shape of the part provides the necessary tightness. We insert the outlet part of the eccentric cuff into the sewer socket. It is important that the diameter of the part is selected correctly.

The eccentric allows, if necessary, to move the toilet slightly relative to the riser, but this distance is small.

To be safe, you can still coat the joint with silicone sealant. We substitute the toilet and put the second end of the cuff on its outlet. The equipment can be fixed to the floor.

Method #3: Corrugation

The simplest of all methods, allowing, if necessary, to connect a riser and a toilet of any type. We wipe the corrugation with a rag. Using a wavy strip, generously apply silicone sealant to the edges of the rubber, which will subsequently be hidden in the sewer pipe.

We carry out the same operation from the opposite edge of the corrugation, processing the area that will be placed on the neck of the toilet.

We insert the corrugation into the sewer socket and put its second end on the outlet of the equipment. We press the plastic firmly with our fingers, checking the reliability of the connection.

The easiest way to connect the toilet to the sewer is using corrugation. The element can be stretched and given the required shape, thus connecting any type of equipment without any problems

Installing the bowl of a floor-standing device

Depending on the method of attaching the toilet to the floor, the connection of the device to the sewer can be carried out before this moment or directly during this operation. Toilet installation begins with installing the bowl, which can be done in different ways.

Method #1: Installation with dowels

First, we prepare the base on which the equipment will be installed. The floor must be absolutely flat, without the slightest difference. Otherwise, the device will not stand up straight and will become loose during use. If you plan to lay ceramic tiles on the floor, you need to do this before starting installation work.

It is possible to tile an already installed toilet, but this is a very labor-intensive procedure that requires precise cutting of each tile. It is much easier to carry out all the necessary activities in advance.

In addition, for the work we will need consumables, which we will need to purchase drills for glass and concrete and silicone sealant.

When marking, hold the pencil strictly vertically to mark the point for the mounting hole as accurately as possible

Let's take a closer look at the external method of mounting the device. We carry out the work in the following sequence:

• We start with fitting. We place the toilet on the base prepared for it and control the angle of inclination, the coincidence of the height of the sewer pipe and the neck, etc. If we find any inconsistencies, we quickly eliminate them.
• We carry out markings. To do this, we first determine the central axis of the toilet. It is optimal if it passes through the center of the room. Using it as a guide, we install the device at a distance of about 15 cm from the sewer socket. Take a marker and carefully trace the outline of the device. We insert the marker strictly vertically into the technological mounting holes and place marks under the holes.
• Preparing holes for fasteners. We move the toilet to the side and use a hammer drill or drill to make the necessary holes. If tiles are laid on the floor, first take a glass drill, after drilling through the cladding, change it to a concrete drill. Carefully clean the hole from dust and pour silicone into it. It will act as a waterproofing agent. Then we insert plastic dowels.
• We install the toilet. We outlined the seat of the device in advance with a marker. We place a special rubber gasket on it or generously apply a layer of silicone, which will act as a gasket. We put the equipment in place and press it to the floor. We insert bushings into the mounting holes and carefully tighten the screws, fixing the plugs. Remove excess silicone with a damp finger or rubber spatula.

We tighten the fasteners very carefully. Excessive force may damage the equipment, which may cause cracks.

We will install the device with internal fastening a little differently. Before installing it, you must make sure that all outlets of the engineering systems are connected to the toilet. Installation is carried out as follows:

• We attach the fastening system to the toilet body.
• We carry out markings. We place the device in the place intended for it and trace the outline with a marker or a simple pencil. We remove the equipment and mark holes for fasteners inside the resulting contour, not forgetting that each connection is secured to the floor with two bolts
• We make the necessary holes. On tiles we work first with a glass drill, then with a concrete drill. Pour sealant into the holes and install dowels.
• We screw the fasteners to the floor with bolts. We take the toilet, place it on the installed mounts, and secure it with bolts through special side holes. There is no need to tighten the fasteners too much yet. It is possible that minor adjustments will need to be made during the process of connecting the device to engineering systems.

Watch the video for more details:

Method #2: glue installation

If, for various reasons, the toilet bowl cannot be installed on dowels, you can install it with glue. The method is only suitable for smooth floors. To carry out the operation you will need a high-quality adhesive composition. This can be liquid sealant, silicone glue or epoxy resin with various hardeners.

You can make such a composition yourself. To do this, take 100 parts of ED-6 epoxy resin, heated to 50C, add 20 parts of solvent or plasticizer, stir well. Then pour in 35 parts of hardener and mix well again.

Add 200 parts of cement to the resulting mass and mix until a plastic, homogeneous mass is obtained.

We carry out installation work in the following sequence:

• We carry out markings. We place the plumbing fixture in the place designated for it and trace the outline with a pencil.
• Preparing the foundation. First of all, we thoroughly clean the floor and base of the toilet from possible contamination. To improve adhesion with the adhesive, you need to roughen the surface, so we clean it with emery cloth. Then degrease the base of the device and the floor with any solvent or acetone.
• Following the manufacturer's instructions exactly, we prepare the adhesive for use.
• Carefully apply glue to the inside of the bottom of the toilet and inside the outline marked on the floor. The layer of composition should not be too large.
• We put the toilet in place and press it firmly against the floor surface.

After we have glued the device, we need to wait until the glue is completely dry. This usually takes about 12 hours. During this time, the equipment should not be touched, much less sat on it.

Otherwise, it may move to the side, and the mount will not be strong enough.

Before installing the toilet with glue, be sure to clean the base of the plumbing fixture and the floor underneath with sandpaper, creating a rough surface

Method #3: installation on taffeta (wooden gasket)

The method was developed for installing plumbing fixtures on wooden floors, but can also be used for other types of flooring. To properly install a toilet on taffeta, you need to perform the following operations:

• We are preparing taffeta. This is the name of a gasket made of durable wood to which a plumbing fixture is attached. We cut it out of a board with a thickness of 2.8 to 3.2 cm. We thoroughly treat the workpiece with drying oil or any other anti-rotting solution. To ensure that the support post is securely attached to the floor, we fix anchors in it. The easiest way is to hammer nails into the part in a checkerboard pattern so that they protrude 2-3 cm from the board.
• We make a recess in the floor to install the device. Its shape and size must match the taffeta. Fill the hole with cement mortar.
• We turn the taffeta over with the anchors facing down and sink it into the cement. If done correctly, the board should be flush with the floor. We wait until the cement dries completely.
• Let's start installing the equipment. We place the toilet on the taffeta and fix it with screws lubricated with graphite or grease so that they can be easily unscrewed later. Be sure to place rubber spacers under the screw heads to avoid damaging the ceramics.

In addition to traditional wooden taffeta, you can use a rubber backing. For these purposes, sheet material with a thickness of 5-15 mm is suitable.

It is quite possible to use an old rubber mat.

For taffeta, it is best to take durable wood such as ash or oak. Be sure to treat the part with drying oil or other composition that protects the wood from rotting

Installation of the cistern and connection to the water supply

After the equipment is secured, you can begin installing the drain tank. There are two varieties of this device; let’s look at the mounting features of each.

Installing a cistern on a toilet shelf

Such equipment is installed quite simply. In this case, it does not matter at all when the internal elements of the tank are installed: before or after mounting the devices on the shelf. In general terms, the work is performed as follows:

• We put the tank in place. First, we take special rubber gaskets and lubricate them on both sides with silicone for better sealing.
• We place the gaskets on the toilet shelf exactly above the drain holes and install the tank.
• We fasten the shelf and tank with bolts. We wait until the silicone hardens. This will take 15-20 minutes.
• We check the tightness of the resulting connection. To do this, pour water into the tank and see if there are any leaks. If shortcomings are identified, we eliminate them.

After we have installed the cistern, we proceed to installing its internal elements:

• We connect the water supply coupling to the tank.
• Attach a float valve to the coupling.
• Screw on the overflow tube.
• We install the water release lever.
• Install the seat and vertical valve.
• Using a rod, we connect the water drainage mechanism and the vertical valve.
• We fix the float valve.
• We adjust the twist of the float elbow by setting the required angle. The smaller the angle, the less water will flow into the drain tank.

Don't forget to adjust the position of the saddle - many people forget about this point!

Before installing the flush tank on the toilet shelf, be sure to install special gaskets that provide the system with the necessary tightness

Design with a cistern fixed above the toilet. Its installation is carried out as follows:

• After the plumbing fixture is installed, we connect the drain pipe from the tank to it.
• We fix the pipe to the toilet using a special coupling.
• Taking into account the height of the drain pipe, we mark the mounting points for the tank on the wall.
• We disconnect the pipe from the tank, and then install the equipment on the wall. We fix it securely. We put the drain pipe in place.

After the installation of the tank is completed, we proceed to installing its internal elements:

• We mount the trigger lever.
• We fix the vertical valve, seat and overflow mechanism.
• We connect the vertical valve, overflow and trigger mechanism using a rod.
• We bring a water pipe to the tank and secure it with a coupling, always using a rubber gasket.
• We fix the float valve on the coupling.
• We connect the twist of the float elbow to the valve at the desired angle.
• Adjusting the position of the saddle.
• We adjust the location of the coupling that connects the toilet and the drain pipe.

To connect the drain tank and the water pipe, use a flexible hose of the required length.

After the connection to the water supply is completed, be sure to test the device. We fill the tank with water and rinse. We control the operation of all mechanisms. If problems are identified, we fix them immediately.

The installation height of the mounted tank can be very different. It depends on the model of plumbing equipment

Installation of the toilet lid

The last stage of installing a floor-standing toilet with your own hands is installing the seat and lid. This is a very simple operation. The seat comes with special fasteners; as a rule, they are made of plastic.

Such parts are very easy to unscrew and tighten. In addition, high humidity does not harm plastic elements.

Another plus is that the design with plastic fasteners moves less on the sanitaryware. We attach the lid to the toilet so that the fasteners fit into the grooves intended for them.

We move the entire structure forward and tighten the nuts tightly, thus fixing the seat.

To prevent the toilet lid and seat from sliding on the surface of the toilet, you need to tighten the fasteners well

Installing a toilet yourself is quite a task for a home handyman. It is important to correctly determine the type of device and, according to this, choose the optimal installation method.

It is important to carefully read the instructions from the equipment manufacturer, which describe the installation procedure in detail, and strictly follow them during the work. If all these conditions are met, the equipment installed by yourself will work for a long time and without problems.