How to properly prepare irises for winter. Iris care in the fall, preparation for winter in the northwest Do I need to cover irises for the winter?

How to properly prepare irises for winter.  Iris care in the fall, preparation for winter in the northwest Do I need to cover irises for the winter?
How to properly prepare irises for winter. Iris care in the fall, preparation for winter in the northwest Do I need to cover irises for the winter?

Irises amaze the imagination with a variety of varieties and shades. Every gardener will find flowers to his liking for decoration. personal plot. Many perceive these plants as smaller copies of lilies, simpler and less demanding. Therefore, the attitude towards them is appropriate. Often flowers are left to their own devices even in the fall - the above-ground part dries out, tubers and roots remain in the ground without any shelter. For winter-hardy varieties this is not a problem, but tender species disappear. This does not take into account the spread of diseases, degeneration, and pest attacks.

Irises amaze the imagination with a variety of varieties and shades

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If the introduction scared you, calm down - irises do not require supernatural care. There is no need to understand the nuances of care different varieties. In all cases the requirements are the same. Let's deal with them.

Rotting tops are a direct path to disease and an attractive place for pests. If the tops are not removed for the winter, small organisms choose the remains to overwinter. Therefore, pruning leaves is a must. Leave no more than 10 centimeters above the soil and remove from the beds.

The answer to the question about the ideal time frame for completing work depends on the region where the site is located. It is important to do everything before the first frost, so middle lane start at the end of October (focus on the weather forecast), in the south you can wait a little longer, in the north irises are pruned in September or even August.

Important! Peduncles are removed earlier - immediately after the end of the flowering period. First, the dried flowers are removed, after ten days the stems are removed. To avoid rotting, cut short, leaving no more than 2 centimeters.

Planting and replanting irises in autumn

Autumn - best time for planting and replanting irises. The flowers are guaranteed to bloom next summer.

Important! Choose for irises appropriate place. Plants do not like stagnant moisture and need good drainage, ventilation and access to sunlight.

Dried leaves of the plant are a signal to start work. The bulbs are carefully removed from the ground, cleaned and dried in a ventilated area or on outdoors. The old skin of the tubers is removed and disinfection measures are carried out.

Different types of irises experience winter differently, since not all of them are equally frost-resistant. But all flowers need good care V autumn period, which guarantees a safe winter, as well as subsequent bright and luxurious flowering.

Features of autumn care for irises

Caring for irises autumn time consists of the following activities:

  • pruning;
  • feeding;
  • preventative treatment;
  • shelter for the winter.

In autumn, irises need to be well prepared for wintering.

Pruning irises before wintering

Faded flower stalks of irises are removed almost immediately after flowering ends. It is not recommended to cut the foliage until it withers on its own. In the green ground part, photosynthesis processes continue, contributing to the accumulation nutrients in the rhizomes, so it cannot be removed.

Peduncles should be cut out immediately after flowering to prevent the formation of a seed pod.

Yellowed leaves are cut off in September or October, depending on the local climate. The fan of leaf plates is shortened to a height of 12–15 cm from ground level, trying to give it the shape of a house roof so that moisture flows down better and does not linger on the cuts.

The leaves of irises are cut off after they wither and turn a little yellow.

All trimmed foliage must be burned, since various harmful insects and pathogens of fungal infections settle in it for the winter.

Iris leaves are cut at an angle

Video: trimming irises correctly

Autumn feeding of irises

Like most garden crops, irises are fed with fertilizers of the phosphorus-potassium group in the autumn. It is better to do this after pruning, about 2-3 weeks before the first firm frost.

Wood ash is scattered on the bed between the plants

Irises respond well to application (per 1 m2):

  • Phosphate fertilizers:
    • superphosphate - 45–60 g;
    • phosphate rock - 150–200 g (no more than once every 4–5 years).
  • Potassium fertilizers:
    • potassium salt - 25–30 g;
    • wood ash - 200–250 g.
  • Mineral complexes:
    • potassium monophosphate - 45–50 g;
    • phosphorus-potassium mixture - 50–55 g;
    • specialized complex fertilizers for flower crops.

Dry fertilizers are evenly distributed over the previously well-moistened soil under the iris bushes, and then the soil is slightly loosened and granules are embedded into it to a depth of 2–3 cm.

Granules of mineral fertilizers are scattered under the irises and embedded in the soil to a depth of 2–3 cm

In the fall, during the period of going to bed, irises should not be fertilized with mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizers, as well as with organic matter (manure, fresh unrotted compost, chicken droppings), so as not to provoke untimely growth of the ground part. Excess nutrition can cause rotting of the rhizome.

Photo gallery: feeding for irises in autumn

Gera Flower Universal - mixed fertilizer for basic application and fertilizing on all types of annual and perennial soils flower plants, as well as decorative flowering shrubs Potassium salt has long been used as a fertilizer; this product is a mixture of potassium chloride, sylvinite and kainite Wood ash is a good potassium and phosphorus fertilizer for sour or neutral soils Phosphate rock is a long-lasting fertilizer; it can be applied once every 4–5 years in increased doses without fear harmful effects on plants Potassium monophosphate - mineral fertilizer, containing nutrients necessary for full growth Fertilizer Autumn universal Terrasol - mixed mineral fertilizer with microelements for feeding in the autumn for fruits and berries, bulbs and flower and ornamental crops Fasco Autumn is used at the very end of the growing season Fertika Autumn is a complex mineral fertilizer for feeding all types of plants in the late summer and autumn seasons. Phosphorus-potassium fertilizer does not contain nitrogen Liquid complex fertilizer Bona Forte Autumn is intended for feeding ornamental shrubs and perennial plants Fertilizer Blank sheet for flower beds and rockeries - a concentrated mineral fertilizer containing all the elements necessary for plant nutrition in accessible forms

Preventive treatment of irises against diseases and pests

On withered and decaying foliage long time Fungal spores remain, and pests that have settled in for the winter can also be found on them. For the purpose of prevention, irises are sprayed:

  • Fungicides:
    • Tsineb - 45–50 g per bucket;
    • Fundazol - 30–35 g per bucket;
    • Bordeaux mixture (1%), etc.
  • Insecticides:
    • Malathion (Karbofos) - 60 g per 8 l;
    • Actellik - 2 ml per 2 l;
    • Aktara - 8–10 g per 10 l, etc.

Preventative treatments chemicals carried out after autumn pruning of irises.

For the purpose of prevention, irises are sprayed against pests and diseases.

Opponents of chemistry can pollinate plants tobacco dust or powder wood ash. An infusion of onion peels (0.2 kg poured into 10 l) will also scare away unwanted residents hot water for 4–5 days).

Photo gallery: preparations for processing irises

Aktara is a strong systemic insecticide with rapid action. Actellik is used to treat gardening, agricultural and ornamental plants Bordeaux mixture is a drug that is used against pests and many fungal diseases of plants Malathion is a broad-spectrum insecticide and acaricide Fundazol is a broad-spectrum fungicide (antifungal agent) for plant protection Zineb - fungicide protective action, prevents the development and spread of various diseases

Sheltering irises for the winter

Many varieties of this flower culture have sufficient frost resistance to successfully survive the cold in open ground without additional insulation. Therefore in southern regions in mild climates they are not covered for the winter. IN northern regions, Where climatic conditions much more severe, it is imperative to protect the plants.

In warm climates, irises overwinter without shelter.

Quite often, during the growing season, the roots of irises become exposed and part of the rhizome is exposed. In the fall, you need to carefully examine all the plants and, if necessary, sprinkle the bare parts with garden soil. Young and recently transplanted specimens are subject to mandatory shelter.

Rhizomes that are above the ground must be covered with earth.

Protect beds with irises by laying a mulch layer (5–20 cm) from the following materials:

  • rotted manure or compost;
  • peat crumbs;
  • mixtures of sand and soil (1:1);
  • sawdust

It is extremely important that the mulch is dry. I try not to use fallen leaves, hay or straw, which easily rot when wet and are a source of mold and various fungal diseases. Rhizomes, coming into contact with damp covering material, can die and rot.

For the winter, irises are mulched with peat, sawdust, shavings, pieces of bark, etc.

To ensure better snow retention, beds with irises are covered with branches, spruce branches or even tops.

In the northernmost regions, irises are covered with thick mulch. non-woven material or cover with boxes (boxes).

Additionally, irises are covered with spruce branches

Video: rules for successful wintering of irises

Video: subtleties of pre-winter preparation of irises

Strong and well-prepared irises for winter will easily survive the cold season, in the spring they will begin to grow early and subsequently produce powerful flower stalks with large buds.

Many gardeners love to grow irises on their plots. The flower is incredibly decorative, has many shapes and colors. However, so that he pleases long years, needed proper care and pruning.

Why prune irises

This is a perennial that requires careful pruning. During the period of growth and flowering, it requires the removal of above-ground parts several times. When to prune irises:

  • the leaves turned yellow and covered with spots;
  • the flowering period has ended;
  • end of autumn and beginning of frosts;
  • care requirements for certain varieties.

Each of the reasons implies its own technique and timing when to prune irises. In addition, there are two types of these flowers that require different care.

Why prune irises

Rhizomatous

Their care is minimal. Remove yellow and dried leaves, if necessary. In the fall, you don’t need to prune unless there is a compelling reason to do so. These varieties have exotic species With spectacular flowers- their fan of leaves is removed by half closer to autumn.

Bulbous

More demanding in care. They are distinguished by the presence of bulbous rhizomes. After such varieties fade, it is necessary to cut off their entire above-ground part. Leave the roots of the bulbs and try not to damage them - this can lead to the death of the flower. The planting material is dried and planted in the ground again in the fall. In the northern regions, the flower is planted in the spring so that the plant does not freeze in winter.

When to trim leaves

Pruning is done in case of transplantation or propagation of a flower. In this case, the leaves are cut almost completely, leaving about a third of the length. This way, water is retained in the roots for better survival.

When to trim leaves

If you need to disconnect young roots, then there is no need to touch the entire rhizome. Needed part is detached with a shovel, and the remaining part is covered with earth. No watering is required after the procedure.

Note! It is better to postpone pruning and replanting until the evening, when the sun is not shining.

When to trim the leaves of irises - a few days before the intended transplant. It is not recommended to touch them during flowering; all procedures are carried out after 3-4 weeks. The plant will restore the energy spent on the formation of peduncles and form more primordia of young rhizomes.

When the seeds ripen, the bushes also need pruning. After the flower fades, seeds appear in the receptacle. Each variety is capable of propagation by seeds, and for some this is the only method. All flower stalks are cut off, but if they want to propagate the plant, they leave one, removing parts of the bush that have already dried out.

There are varieties that have seeds with a very decorative appearance. In this case, remove the dried buds without touching the flower. The stinking iris has the seeds of a beautiful orange color, and Belamkanda has black showy seeds.

Is it possible to prune irises in July?

The flower is one of the first to bloom, but these times also vary depending on the variety. According to flowering, plants are divided into groups:

  • early - bloom in May;
  • mid-early - flowering closer to the beginning of June;
  • average - during June;
  • late - in the first half of July.

Is it possible to prune irises in July?

Some varieties bloom twice in one season - in spring and then in autumn. Thus, in July, when the iris has faded, its flower stalks are cut off. This is done so that the plant does not waste energy on the seeds, but directs all the energy to the buds that have not yet blossomed.

Additional Information. Removing dry elements gives more decorative look, this is a way to update irises.

There are varieties that are very easy to sow, if you do not remove the peduncle - this leads to thickening of the plantings in the flowerbed. It makes it worse appearance and provokes nutrient deficiency in the main plant.

Flowers are also pruned during flowering. It's done sharp knife, in compliance with the following recommendations:

  • buds that have bloomed and have a green receptacle are removed;
  • when flowering occurs in the active phase, it is important to preserve the buds;
  • after the flower has lost its decorative appearance, it is cut off at a distance of 2.5 cm from the ground.

Leaves should not be removed during flowering or immediately after. This may even lead to the death of the plant. When pruning the foliage of irises, remove only completely yellow or dried tips. At correct pruning a green fan will decorate the flowerbed all summer.

Important! Do not fertilize during the flowering period.

Varieties that bloom twice a year require mandatory pruning of stems and leaves. When cutting irises is required for a bouquet, the cut is made almost at the root without damaging it.

Pruning in autumn

In autumn, pruning is necessary for flowers - this way the plant will prepare for unfavorable conditions winter. The procedure is carried out before frost in October - the leaves are removed. There are several tips on how to prune irises in the fall:

  • You need to cut the foliage into a cone, this way there will be less moisture on the surface;
  • Leaves up to 15 cm tall are not touched;
  • when cutting irises, the removed parts must be burned;
  • rhizomes are covered with a layer of soil;
  • if it is winter with a small amount of snow, then the flowers are completely covered.

Thus, when it is time to cut irises for the winter depends on the growing region. Somewhere frosts may come earlier.

This is a very common plant, with many species, so every gardener has his own secrets in caring for it. Here are some tips for caring for your flower:

  • So that after flowering the leaves do not turn yellow, planting material pre-soaked in copper sulfate. This procedure keeps the plant green until frost;
  • Only purchased varieties are planted during the period of their acquisition, and existing bushes are planted in early August. In this case, the planting material is dried for a couple of days and embedded in the soil with the rhizome facing south;
  • In order to quickly propagate the desired variety, take the rhizome and cut it in two places to a depth of about 1 cm. Then dry it a little and plant it. Such a plant produces about 6-7 children. It is important to prepare the place for planting, fertilize and moisten it well. The children are separated from the main bush with a small part of the mother plant - this way the young plants will have more nutrients.

Many gardeners send iris for the winter according to the principle “it will dry out and fall off.” This is a fundamentally wrong approach, because it is extremely risky - yes, winter-hardy irises can cope, but flowers are more tender varieties will probably get hurt.

It is not difficult to get lost in the variety of iris varieties - all shades from snow-white to almost black and all sizes from crumbs barely rising from the grass to giants the size of a first-grader will confuse even an experienced florist. But preparing irises for winter is the same for all types and varieties, both bulbous and rhizomatous.

Pruning irises

Iris leaves, dried out and rotten at the edges, often become a haven for pathogens, as well as a wintering place for harmful insects. In order not to breed in own garden problems, the leaves must be cut to a height of 10-15 cm and removed from the site.

If we talk about when to prune irises for the winter, then you should focus on your region. In the middle zone, this is done before the first frost, in early November. Accordingly, in the north you can start earlier, in the south - later. If you don’t want to guess the timing and monitor the weather forecast, cut off the leaves of irises during the rainy season - this will provide the plant with better ventilation and prevent water from stagnating in the roots.

You need to trim the flowers along with the ovules on irises immediately after flowering, and two weeks after that, the flower stems themselves. No more than 2 cm should remain from the peduncles - this will avoid rotting.

Planting and replanting irises in autumn

Irises can be planted both in spring and autumn. However, if you want bulbous irises If you are sure to be pleased with the flowering next season, then give preference to autumn planting.

All types of irises grow, bloom and overwinter better when planted in an elevated, well-ventilated, illuminated place. They do not like stagnant moisture or dense soils, so for an iridarium it is worth choosing an area with well-drained soil.

Autumn planting and replanting of irises is carried out immediately after the leaves of the plant have dried. The bulbs are cleared of soil, the baby is separated, then the planting material is dried and planted in a new place at the end of September or beginning of October. Plants use the warm season to take root, but do not have time to grow.

After division, rhizomatous irises are planted in the same way. Moreover, both of these freshly transplanted flowers must be covered for the winter, regardless of their variety, because they are still too weak to overwinter on their own.

The winter hardiness of irises, and therefore the need for shelter for the winter, depends on their variety and type. The most fragile and delicate are the Dutch, Japanese and Spanish bulbous varieties ( Wedgwood, Cajanus), rhizomatous irises (crested iris, innominate iris, lake iris), as well as all tall varieties bearded iris.

Iridodictiums (Vinogradov's iris, Dunford's iris, reticulate iris), as well as British ones, are more resistant to our winters bulbous varieties. Of the rhizomatous irises, this group includes leafless iris, Bieberstein iris and dwarf iris.

And finally, wild beardless irises (Siberian iris, marsh iris, bristle iris, oriental iris and yellow iris) overwinter quietly even in the harshest years.

Before covering the irises for the winter, it is necessary to loosen the row spacing and treat the top of the rhizomes and the remains of the leaves with fungicides (Alirin-B, Baktofit, Vectra, Gamair, etc.). But if you decide to feed irises for the winter, then choose a mineral complex without nitrogen.

If the irises of the third group can be sent for winter after pruning and processing without additional effort, then with the first two you will have to tinker. It is necessary to cover irises for the winter with the onset of frost, when the rainy period has come to an end, i.e. approximately in the middle - second half of November. It is not worth doing this earlier, because during rainfall the covered irises may dry out. Peat, humus, shavings or straw are perfect for shelter. Cover the iris so that there is a 10-centimeter loose layer above the bulbs or roots, and place spruce branches on top.

If you notice that bulbous irises of some varieties in your area regularly freeze, treat them as you would with gladioli - dig them up for the winter. This must be done after completely dry leaves. Trimmed and insecticide-treated bulbs must be dried for a month at a temperature of about 25°C and then stored in a cool, dry room.

Even winter-hardy varieties Rhizomatous irises must be covered in the first year of life and after 4-5 years of age, when the roots begin to protrude from the ground.

In spring, irises awaken early and calmly tolerate temperature changes, so you can remove their cover as soon as the snow melts in the garden. Under the daytime sun, you can easily discover all the problems that have arisen over the winter. Perhaps the shelter did not help, and part of the iris still froze. Then he will need treatment:

  1. carefully remove all the mush of dead leaves, scrubbing it down to a hard tissue;
  2. treat the cut of the leaf with a solution of potassium permanganate of a rich wine color;
  3. Sprinkle the wounds with ash or crushed coal.

This treatment will allow the iris to bloom this year and prevent the process of rotting from starting.

You can always say: “Why do I need this effort? Irises will bloom without them!” But believe me, when you see how grateful these plants can be and how magnificently and amicably they bloom after a carefree winter, you will not even remember the time spent.

After many plants have bloomed with the end of summer, it is recommended to take some measures in terms of caring for them. So today we’ll talk about irises, caring for them in the fall, and what preparation they need for winter. Many gardeners love it perennial, this flower takes root well and also easily tolerates not very severe frosts if you provide it with appropriate shelter.

Iris grows well both as a single planting in a flowerbed and looks great together with other representatives of the flora that grow on the plot of many summer residents. Let's look at how to properly care for these flowers in the fall.

Caring for irises in autumn

It is worth noting that theoretically, irises can be planted and replanted from early spring until October. But in order for the plant to take root well, it is recommended to replant during the dormant period, which occurs after the end of flowering of this beautiful representative of the flora.

If you decide to transplant irises or plant these gorgeous flowers for the first time in your garden or summer cottage, then try to do this at the end of August or at the beginning of autumn, that is, around the beginning of September. If time is lost, but the weather permits, then replant the irises in the fall, at least before frost.

Before dividing big bush For irises that are already growing in the garden, you need to choose a fairly well-developed plant. They carefully dig it out, trying not to damage it. root system, after which they shake off the adhering soil and inspect it for integrity; if rotten rhizomes are visible, then you will have to dig up a new specimen.

Necessary good rhizome divide so that on each separated part there is a leaf bunch, while it is recommended to cut the rhizomes by about a quarter. It is also necessary to remove old, so-called rotten particles of the root system, and cut off the leaves, leaving no more than fifteen centimeters of them.

If damaged areas are found on the rhizome, they must be cut out, after which it is important to soak them in a manganese solution for 15 minutes; after such a procedure, the root system should be dried; in addition, it is recommended to treat all sections with crushed coal, to which sulfur must first be added.

For thorough rooting of the iris, it is necessary to plant it correctly. For this purpose, a small mound is made in the prepared hole, the rhizome is placed on it, it is important to spread the roots well enough to different parties. It is deepened to a distance of no more than 5 centimeters. Keep 30-50 cm between bushes.

The soil around the planted iris should be compacted and watered. And in the spring you can expect beautiful flowers. Planting and care in autumn gives more top scores than at other times.

If you do not plan to replant the irises, then you should weed the soil around them, removing weeds, and also loosen the soil. Without transplantation in one place they can live up to seven years, and hybrid varieties it is necessary to replant more often in order to preserve the so-called variety of the plant for as long as possible.

In order for iris buds to differ in size and be large, they must be fed with fertilizers. During the growing season itself in early spring You can use phosphate fertilizers, and when the plants fade, use phosphorus and potassium varieties of fertilizing.

It is worth noting that irises, like other garden flowers, do not tolerate feeding with fresh manure, otherwise they may simply die. In autumn, it is recommended to reduce watering to a minimum; if this is not done, then the rhizome may rot.

Until frost sets in, it is recommended to cover the iris tubers with spruce branches or leaves, thereby protecting this plant during severe frosts. And in spring time the shelter should be removed, since under the spring rays of the sun the roots may overheat, which will not have a very good effect on their subsequent development.

What exactly can you cover the rhizomes with? For winter, in addition to leaves and spruce branches, irises can be sprinkled using dry sawdust, peat, humus or compost is also suitable, and you can also use ordinary soil, or, in extreme cases, river sand.

As for sawdust, it is better to sprinkle it as late as possible, when the forecast no longer expects rain, otherwise the moisture will wet them greatly, and when frost hits, they will freeze into a lump, which is not very good for the plant. It’s also worth thinking about whether sawdust and spruce branches will become a good haven for mice...

So, if you decide to cover the plant with peat, then it is better to use low-lying peat, and with the arrival of spring, you urgently need to rake the sprinkled cover so that Sun rays could directly warm the flower buds, but there is no need to remove it completely; it can serve as a so-called mulch next to the root system.

River sand is not the best covering material best component, since it is quite cold, it can be used in the absence of other shelter, in this situation it is recommended to mix it a little with the so-called turf soil.

By the way, do you remember how to cover young grape bushes for the winter? To do this, its vines are pressed to the ground, covered with a board, which is covered with earth dug up right next to it... Why isn’t this a method in our case?! This shelter needs to be removed in the spring to prevent the ground part of the flower from overheating, but only when there is no subzero temperatures on the ground, day or night.

You should not disturb the root system before winter and hill up the soil around the plants; they will overwinter better using any of the above-mentioned covering materials. If you follow the simple recommendations presented, then in the spring you can see beautifully blooming irises, which will certainly delight you, dear reader.

Properly caring for irises in the fall and preparing them for winter will give the gardener a unique guarantee that he will be able to admire the many colors of the most delicate irises in the spring.