How to properly replant old forsythia bushes. How to properly transplant a fruit bush to a new location? How to replant a bush

How to replant shrubs.

If you are bored with the usual look of your garden, you can always make interesting changes by transplanting ornamental shrubs to a new location. And the reason could be simply a change of mood or if the plant has grown and you have found a new cozy place for it in your garden.

Transplanting “large-sized” planting material has been practiced in world gardening for a very long time. The need to replant shrubs appears if you want to change the appearance of the garden or transplant the plant to a more suitable place. In addition, shrubs are replanted if they have grown greatly and there is not enough space for them in a given area, however, I already said this at the very beginning.

It is recommended to replant in the spring or autumn when they are in the dormant stage. Plants transplanted at this time take root better. In the spring they are replanted after the soil opens, and in the fall at a time so that they have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. Before transplanting shrubs with climbing shoots, tie them with braid or put a bag on the bush. It is easiest to replant shrubs that have been growing in the garden in one place for no more than a year. Otherwise, the transplant will be very complicated. If possible, refrain from replanting adult shrubs, as such specimens do not tolerate transplantation well and take root less well.

Shrubs take root well in a new place if you prepare them for replanting. Transplant them at the right time and provide them with proper care.

We select a suitable plot in the garden. This place must meet all the necessary requirements for both light and soil characteristics. Before planting, we carry out abundant pruning. If the location where you want to transplant the shrub is close to the area where it is currently growing, then the plant can be moved without packing its roots. If you need to move the bush over a considerable distance, I recommend packing its root ball in thick fabric. This will help us not to lose the soil that forms a lump on the roots of the plant, and it will also help to store the shrub for a while if you cannot plant it right away.

To prepare for replanting shrubs, I advise you to approach this issue with all responsibility. A month before transplanting the shrub, use a shovel to draw a circle around it. Before transplanting, water the bush well so that it is easier to dig out and the roots are saturated with moisture. Open the root ball on all sides or carefully dig it out, being careful not to damage the roots. Then we dig a planting hole at the intended location for future planting of the shrub. The hole should be twice as wide as the ball with the roots of the bush. The soil at the bottom of the planting hole will need to be loosened. We plant our shrub at the same depth at which it grew before transplanting. Form a watering circle and water the plant. Also water the plant when the soil dries to a depth of 5 cm. After watering, mulch the soil with a thick layer of suitable mulching material (cm one hundred mulches).

In the spring, a few weeks after planting, new shoots will appear on the bushes. At the same time, the plant develops new roots. In order for the plant to continue to develop well in the future, feed it. You can add liquid fertilizer to the water and carry out root feeding. If you transplanted the bush to a windy place, take care of reliable support; we install the support in such a way as not to damage the roots of our bush. As soon as the shrub takes root, you can remove the support; for a rooted shrub, the wind is no longer a hindrance.

And to summarize: the ideal time for replanting is early spring, as soon as the soil opens, before the plant begins to grow. Plants take root faster with regular watering and cool weather. In areas with cold climates and areas with clay soil, it is better to plant the plant in the spring. We replant in the fall; this is an alternative time for replanting shrubs. It is very important to plant the plants at a time so that they have time to take root before the onset of cold weather. If it rains in the fall, replant the plants after the soil dries out. That's all the secrets of good shrub transplantation. Good luck to you.

Transplanting currants in the spring is an important event for the crop. Since after 5 - 7 years of its growth in the area, the berries become smaller, young shoots grow less intensively, the foliage changes its usual color to yellow and falls from the bushes already in August. Our article will tell summer residents what the goals of spring replanting are, the features of the process, and how to properly prepare a place for the crop. But we will also look at common questions and mistakes gardeners make.

Why should currant bushes be transplanted to a new location in spring? There are good reasons for this. Among them are the desire to propagate the variety of currant you like, the presence of signs of disease in the bushes (if treatment has not yielded results), when the crops have grown excessively and interfere with the normal development of each other.

The need for replanting arises due to changes in the groundwater level (when the depth of their location becomes shallower), if the crown of the tree growing near the currant has grown very large and provides shade.

Or a new facility has been built, when the condition of the bush is being updated due to its advanced age. It is also possible to transplant the plant from depleted soil filled with toxins to more fertile soil. So that the currants can continue to grow normally and fully develop.

Features of spring transplantation

Many experienced summer residents call replanting in the spring rather a necessary measure. This is supported by the fact that plants do not experience such severe stress after winter. How to properly replant currants in spring? To do this, you should wait until the ground warms up well. The temperature of its layer should be at least 5 degrees Celsius. If it was not possible to carry out work in the spring, it should be postponed until the fall or spring of next year.

In order for the bushes to survive the procedure normally, it is recommended to move their roots along with the soil. After replanting, mulching with potash fertilizers, humus, loose peat, wood ash, sawdust and dry grass is mandatory. To establish, the bushes require watering with sun-warmed water or water at room temperature.

Preparing a new place

For planting, it is important to choose a normally sunny and fairly spacious place. The hole should be dug deep enough to allow room for the root system. Remember that it is easier to root in loose soil. Organic fertilizers or compost must be poured into the bottom of the pit. After digging, water should be poured into the hole. When it is absorbed a little, it is permissible to plant the bush. If the soil absorbs the liquid quickly, you need to water it again.

Soil preparation should be carried out a couple of weeks before the planned replanting. After digging, it is cleared of grass and weed rhizomes. The holes should measure 40 by 40 cm (relevant for young plants). For adults, size calculation is based on overgrown roots. Considering the age of the bush, the depth of its placement in the ground is usually 30–50 cm. A trench is made for several plants, where they are planted at a distance of up to 1.5 meters.

If there is heavy soil, care should be taken to ensure good drainage. To do this, add sand, crushed stone or cuttings in small quantities to the hole. Two thirds of the holes must be filled with soil, to which humus and compost are added.

Currants respond gratefully to fertilizers such as nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. If the transplant is carried out in a place with high acidity of the soil, adding chalk, dolomite, slaked lime, and ash will help correct the situation. To dig up a bush from its usual place, you should carefully dig around it in a circle, maintaining a depth of up to 50 cm. Do not pull the plants by the top part. It is transferred to a new hole together with a lump of earth on the roots. For disinfection purposes, it is recommended to pre-treat them with potassium permanganate.

FAQ

There are a number of questions that many gardeners often ask:

• Question No. 1. Is it possible to replant bushes that are 3 to 5 years old? Or is it preferable to take them from cuttings?
  This is allowed. It would be correct to dig up the bushes and carefully drag them to a new place without damaging the roots along with the lump of earth. It is recommended to cut off the upper part of the crop and deepen it normally. After the procedure, sufficient watering is important for normal establishment.
• Question No. 2. Is it permissible to replant young seedlings in the place where old bushes grew and where they were uprooted?
  Practice shows that it is better to allocate a new place for them. Since it is possible that the land will become infected with diseases, as well as its depletion.
• Question No. 3. What crops can normally exist next to currants?
  It is recommended to plan planting garlic and onions near the bushes. They will provide reliable protection for currants from possible attacks by pests and infections. It is best not to replant the bush under fruit trees. It is not recommended to place them near raspberries and gooseberries.
• Question No. 4. Do bushes that were planted in the fall require an earthing procedure?
  Yes, it would be useful to carry it out for the purpose of normal insulation. But in the spring the embankment will have to be leveled. Since the plants will begin to produce side shoots. Over the course of the summer, the soil in the place where the hilling was carried out will dry out. As a result, the superficial root system of currants risks dying or being damaged by frost in the future.
• Question No. 5. Is it necessary to trim the ground part of the transplanted bush?
  It is possible to do this. But remember that in this case the take-up will not be too fast.

Mistakes gardeners make

Sometimes, when transplanting currants, experienced gardeners make the same type of mistakes. For example, they replant the crop to the same depth as in the old place. It would be correct to place the plant in the ground to a depth that exceeds the previous one by 5 - 7 cm.

Also, watering shrubs is often insufficient. After replanting, the plants should be watered abundantly. Then you can count on their normal restoration and increased productivity.

But at the same time, it is important to avoid over-flooding the selected location. Some summer residents, in pursuit of intensive growth of currants and a large number of berries, are able to overdo it with fertilizing. Even high-quality fertilizers in quantities that exceed those allowed and indicated on the packaging can harm crops rather than benefit them.

Video “Transplanting and rejuvenation of currants”

From this video you will learn how to properly replant and rejuvenate currants.

If the planting is unsuccessful, or when redeveloping the territory, it is sometimes necessary to transplant the grapes to a new place. This is a very flexible culture that adapts well to new conditions. Therefore, with some effort, even an adult fruit-bearing plant can be moved and its productivity maintained.

When can grapes be replanted?

There are no universal dates when it is better to replant grapes. The gardener needs to focus on his region and specific climatic conditions.

The optimal time for planting and replanting is considered to be autumn and spring. In autumn, work begins after leaf fall and continues until frost. In the southern regions, where the soil does not freeze in winter, it is permissible to plant during prolonged thaws in January-February.

In spring, wait until the soil thaws. It is important to have time to transplant before the eyes begin to bloom. In spring, the soil is well saturated with moisture, which plants use for their development.

Important! The earlier the bushes are planted (subject to favorable conditions), the better they will take root.

When deciding how to properly replant grapes without loss to the harvest, the gardener must take into account not only the time of the operation, but also the age of the plant.

Methods for transplanting adult grape bushes of different ages

The first three years of life of a young plant are considered a seedling. During this period, it is actively forming roots. With age, the old roots thicken, the vital potential of the grapes and its ability to regenerate decreases. This means that the older the plant, the worse it takes root in a new place. Nevertheless, even mature bushes 7-10 years old are capable of producing good yields after transplantation.

How to transplant an adult grape bush:

• with a lump of earth;
• with an open root system.

For adult bushes, the first method is optimal - with a lump of earth and an intact root system. However, this is not always possible without special equipment.

So, depending on the type of soil and climate, the root system of a grape bush penetrates to the following depth:

• in a humid, cool climate - 20-40 cm;
• in the south - 40-120 cm;
• on sandy soils - 1.5-3.5 m;
• on rocks in the southern regions - 3-5 m or more.

Thus, the task of the winegrower when replanting is to preserve as many roots as possible. The older the plant, the larger the earthen lump will be.

One-year-olds, two-year-olds, three-year-olds

Young seedlings are planted from the school to a permanent place at the age of 1-3 years. They can be either with a closed root system or with an open one.

In specialized literature on viticulture, it is advised to do the following:

1. Select 1-2 most developed shoots on the seedling, remove the rest.
2. Trim the selected shoots, leaving 2-3 eyes on each.
3. Remove all roots located above the first or second node from the heel. This should stimulate the development of the primary heel roots.
4. Shorten the heel roots to 20-25 cm when planting in holes and to 5-7 cm under a hydraulic drill.

Features of transplanting grapes at different times of the year

When planning how to transplant grapes to another place in the fall or spring, the gardener proceeds from the climate of the region and the type of root system of the planting material (closed - ZKS or open - OKS).

Transplanting seedlings in autumn

When replanting in autumn, the undoubted advantage is that in the spring the bush begins to grow early and does not lag behind the rest in development. This means that in the first year after the operation you can get a small harvest.

If you plan to replant grapes from ZKS in the fall, be prepared that the plant will not have time to take root in the new place and will not survive the winter. To avoid this, you need to carefully mulch the soil around the seedling and make a more thorough shelter.

Alternatively, in areas with little snow in the winter and possible frosts, it is recommended to dig up seedlings with ZKS in the fall and plant them only in the spring, organizing a cool winter for them in the basement or cellar. Bushes with ACS are replanted in the fall.

Differences when transplanting in spring and summer

When replanting in spring, there is a possibility that the bush will take a long time to get used to the new conditions, will begin to grow late and, as a result, the vine will not have time to ripen. The harvest with this method of transplantation will have to wait longer.

Important! Planting vegetative grapes in unheated soil will most likely lead to the death of the root system, and therefore the entire bush.

An undoubted advantage of spring planting is that the hole for the plant is prepared well in advance, in the summer or autumn. During the winter months, all fillers added to the pit are compacted and create a more uniform soil.

In summer, replanting adult bushes is not advisable. During the growing season, the plant will spend a lot of energy restoring the roots to the detriment of the development of the above-ground part and may wither. Young vegetative seedlings with a closed root system, which can be transplanted without damaging the roots, are moved to a new location in the summer.

How to replant grapes

In general, the procedure for transplanting grapes to a new place does not differ from regular planting. Only one operation is added - excavation.

How to dig up bushes

The older the plant, the harder it is to dig it up with its entire root system. Procedure:

1. Dig up the bush at a distance of about 50 cm from the trunk, being careful not to damage the roots of neighboring plants.
2. Carefully expose the roots. If they go deep into the ground, cut them off. At this stage, the main thing is to preserve the heel and the main roots coming from it.
3. If it is physically possible, grab the bush directly with a lump of earth and transfer it onto a sheet of metal, tarpaulin or into a wheelbarrow, with the help of which they drag the plant to a new planting site.
4. To prevent the lump from falling apart, you can wrap it in a piece of cloth and bandage it.
5. If the bush is to be replanted with an open root, carefully shake off the soil on the roots with your hands or a stake, completely exposing them.

Beginning gardeners doubt whether they need to water the plant before replanting. Watering helps to ensure that the soil does not crumble and holds a lump. If you need to clean the roots, you do not need to water the bush first.

An interesting way to dig up a bush using a hydraulic drill:

• The soil around the bush is worked well with a hydraulic drill until it becomes slurry.
• Then all the slurry is scooped out, leaving the roots intact.
• If there is no hydraulic drill, the bush is dug up and watered until the soil is saturated.

Preparation of planting material

Before or after transplantation, regardless of the age of the bush, the above-ground part must be shortened. 2-3 annual shoots are left on the plant. They are cut 2-3 buds closer to the beginning of the sleeve. If you plan to renew the entire above-ground part, it is cut off at the black head.

Planting grapes in a new place

A new place for the bush is prepared in advance, at least a month in advance, or even better, six months in advance. The planting depth and its method depend on:

• climate,
• type of soil on the site,
• shelter options for the winter,
• snow depth and other factors.

Traditionally, in industrial vineyards, bushes are planted in holes or under a hydraulic drill. The latter method is only suitable for young seedlings with a shortened root system.

• in the European part - 45-50 cm;
• on irrigated fertile soils of Central Asia - 55-60 cm;
• on sandy soils - 60-65 cm.

However, in amateur viticulture in Russia, different regions have established their own methods:

• in the south, where the soil warms up well and dries out quickly, they are planted in large, pre-fertilized holes to a depth of 40-50 cm;
• in the Moscow region, the method of planting in raised ridges to a depth of 30-40 cm is gaining popularity;
• in northern viticulture zones, for example in the Urals, grapes are planted in trenches to provide the bushes with good shelter in winter and quick warming in summer.

In areas with poor soil (sand, stone), deep holes 1x1x1 m are made for planting, which are filled with plant residues, rotted manure or humus, and mineral fertilizers. There is no such need on black soils. There it is enough to dig a hole according to the size of the root system and plant the seedling to a depth of no more than 40-45 cm.

Thus, there is no universal planting scheme suitable for all regions. Each winegrower chooses for himself the one that suits the conditions of his site. When transplanting an adult bush, the same rules apply as during normal planting, which we will consider below.

Instructions for transplanting grapes

With a clod of earth and a rooter

Sequence of operations:

1. The planting pit is prepared in proportion to the earthen coma.
2. Pour a couple of buckets of water into it.
3. Lower the bush into the hole and remove the wrapping fabric.
4. The gaps between the earthen lump and the walls of the pit are gradually covered with earth, watering periodically.
5. When the hole is completely covered with earth, form a circle around the trunk and once again water the bush abundantly with the addition of a root growth stimulator.

With open root system

Boarding order:

1. Prepare a hole in advance 15-20 cm deep than the length of the underground trunk of the seedling and water it with water.
2. 10-25 cm of fertile soil mixed with humus and mineral fertilizers is poured onto the bottom.
3. Before planting, the roots of the seedling are trimmed to 25-30 cm and dipped in a creamy mash (1 part cow manure, 2 parts clay).
4. A mound is made in the center of the hole on which the seedling is placed.
5. The roots are spread along the slopes of the mound.
6. The hole with the seedling is filled halfway with soil and watered.
7. Cover with soil up to surface level.
8. Form a tree trunk circle and water it abundantly.

Important! In the area of ​​covered viticulture, the base of the shoots after planting should be 1-2 cm below the soil level.

Mistakes when transplanting grapes

If the seedling does not take root and grows poorly, the peculiarities of transplanting adult grapes may not have been taken into account.

RCommon mistakes:

1. Late planting in spring. The plant needs time to adapt to new conditions and restore its roots. In addition, in the spring the soil dries out quickly and a seedling with ACS may not have enough soil moisture to start growing.
2. Early planting in spring. In cold soil, the roots of a vegetating seedling with SCD may die.
3. Too much root pruning. Having lost the heel roots, an adult bush cannot restore them and receive adequate nutrition.
4. Planting in a dry pit. The dry layer between the roots and soil moisture prevents the roots from starting to grow.
5. An attempt to collect a full harvest in the year of transplantation. Excessive load on the bush leads to the fact that the plant wastes its own resources without receiving sufficient nutrition.

Caring for grapes after transplantation

In the first year after transplanting to a new location, the bush needs increased care and attention.

Caring for transplanted grapes

You must be prepared that the plant will not immediately recover and produce full harvests. The inflorescences that form in the first year are cut off completely so that the bush devotes all its energy to restoring the roots.

Watering

The bush is watered in the same way as the rest of the vineyard: by ground method or through a pipe. When choosing the second method, gardeners should take into account the depth of the root layer. For example, if the roots do not penetrate further than 40 cm, and the pipe is buried deeper into the ground, the bush does not receive water when watering.

Depending on soil moisture, 3-5 waterings are carried out per season, every 2 weeks in dry weather and 3-4 weeks in wet weather. For early varieties, watering is completed in mid-July, for late varieties - in mid-August.

Every 15-20 days after rain or watering, loosen the soil around the bush. This prevents the soil from drying out and promotes air flow to the roots.

Feeding

Fertilizers filled into the hole during planting are enough for the first 2 years. During this period, additional feeding is carried out if signs of a lack of elements are visible.

Frost protection

Bushes are prepared for winter in different ways, depending on the growing region:

• cover the ground with a mulch layer;
• spud;
• protect bushes with non-woven material;
• The seedlings are covered with soil.

Disease and pest control

During the season, several sprays are carried out with Bordeaux mixture against mildew. In general, the replanted bush is treated in the same way as the rest of the vineyard.

Important! It is advisable to use reduced doses of drugs on a weakened bush.

Results

Mature grape bushes can take root in a new place at almost any age. The gardener must himself decide on the advisability of replanting due to the large labor costs of the operation. If you want to preserve a valuable variety, before replanting it is recommended to take cuttings from the bush or propagate it by cuttings.

There is no clear answer to the question of when to replant a berry crop. Some gardeners argue that there is only one option - replanting currants in the fall, when there are no leaves, the movement of juice slows down, and the plant is ready for wintering.

The need to transplant currants arises in the following cases:

In each listed case, the transplantation rules and work procedure are similar.

Before answering the question of when you can replant currants, you should first choose a new place for the bush. This berry crop loves sunlight and warmth, so shaded areas cannot be used. If there is little heat and light, the number of berries will decrease, and the bush will be susceptible to various diseases. It is not recommended to put the plant's roots in very wet soil - it will not grow. It is better to choose moderately moist black soil containing some loam and, if possible, make drainage in the hole.

This berry crop loves sunlight and warmth, so shaded areas cannot be used.

It is not advisable for the bush to be on the second tier. Its leaves are susceptible to diseases, and the fungus found in most berry and fruit crops can harm the crop. Transplantation can be done on partially sandy soil - the bush grows and develops better in it. Carefully dig up the place where currants will grow in the future, remove all debris, weeds and roots of old plants.

Rules for transplanting currants

If you decide to replant a berry crop, carefully prepare for this process. The yield of the bush depends on the correctness of your actions.

In the selected area, you should dig holes, placing them at a distance of one to one and a half meters from each other. Pour fertile soil, humus, potash, phosphate fertilizers or wood ash inside. The prepared soil should be nutritious and sufficiently loose. To transplant red currants, it is advisable to add sand to the soil and arrange drainage in the form of a small layer of crushed stone at the bottom of the hole. The size of the holes should be at least fifty centimeters wide and thirty centimeters deep, but it is better to focus on the size of the roots.

The size of the holes should be at least fifty centimeters wide and thirty centimeters deep, but it is better to focus on the size of the roots.

The berry crop needs to be prepared for replanting: young shoots are cut in half and old branches are cut to the ground. The bush is carefully dug up and taken out of the ground. There is no need to pull the shoots - this can damage the roots or branches. If it was not possible to remove the plant the first time, it is dug up again with one and a half to two bayonets of a shovel.

The berry crop needs to be prepared for transplanting

If the bush is healthy, it can be removed along with a lump of earth and replanted immediately. But if it is sick, carefully examine the roots, remove damaged and dry ones, remove the larvae of pests and insects living in the root system of the plant. After this, treat the roots with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Pour a large amount of water into the hole so that the soil mixture looks like a liquid substance. Immerse the bush in the slurry and, holding it suspended, sprinkle it with dry soil five to eight centimeters above the root collar. Water again to compact the soil around the roots. The distance between the bushes should be at least one hundred and fifty centimeters so that they do not shade each other. The transplanted plant needs normal care: regular watering, spraying and nutritional supplements.

Pour a large amount of water into the hole so that the soil mixture looks like a liquid substance.

How to replant currants in the fall

For all gardeners, the relevant question is when is the best time to replant currants in order to quickly get a good harvest. In the northern regions, replanting is advisable in the spring, when the snow melts and the temperature outside is above zero. But if the bushes have already begun to grow, it is better to postpone replanting until autumn.

The procedure requires a certain patience, since the bush must shed its leaves and the sap flow in the shoots must stop. For the middle zone, the optimal period is mid-to-late October. In the north - two to three weeks later. If you move the bushes early, the currants may confuse the seasons and begin to grow and throw out buds. In winter they will freeze and weaken the plant. During dry and warm autumn, transplanted shrubs require constant watering.

Winter shelter is mandatory. You can pour three buckets of old humus mixed with leaves of ornamental trees into the base of the bush. By spring, a fertile and loose layer of soil will form around the plant, in which you can arrange a watering bowl. Shrubs planted in the fall become accustomed to the new location over the winter and take root in order to produce a harvest in the summer. If currant bushes are transplanted in the spring, they take a long time to take root and produce berries only after a year.

Transplantation in spring

During this period, the rooted cuttings are transplanted - they are transferred to a permanent place from the nursery trench. If the cuttings were planted in the fall, in the spring they will be twigs with two or three leaves.

If the plant was cut from spring, by the time of transplantation well-developed bushes with two or three shoots should form. They are very easy to replant, but the plant must be dug up along with a lump of earth to minimize the risk of damage to the roots. Bushes transplanted in spring require proper care and good watering throughout the summer. Mature shrubs are replanted as early as possible - in mid or late March.

In summer, replanting currants is not advisable, but possible. Mature bushes need to be dug up with a ball of earth - it should be as large as possible. To carry it to a new place, use basins, buckets and boxes. They need to be selected taking into account the size of the roots. After planting the shrub in a prepared hole, water it thoroughly for several days.

To carry it to a new place, use basins, buckets and boxes.

Seedlings from containers can be transplanted at any time of the year. It is important to provide them with good watering, fertilizing and fertilizer using ammonium nitrate. Immediately after planting, the area should be mulched using peat, compost, humus or sand - they will help retain moisture. If the planting holes are prepared well, fertilizing will be needed only after a year.

Regardless of the time of the procedure, it is necessary to cut off as much of the vegetative mass as possible from the transplanted bushes, and leave two or three buds for propagation.

If the planting holes are prepared well, fertilizing will be needed only after a year.

Otherwise, the plant will slow down and take a long time to gain momentum.

Abundant watering is required. For the first two weeks, you can safely create a swamp, that is, keep the roots in water. The longer this process takes place, the higher the likelihood of getting a rich harvest. But you cannot keep the roots in water for more than three weeks, as they may rot.

In the first year, the crown should be formed correctly so that there is a minimum of growth and all branches stretch upward. Further care is carried out in the fall: all old branches are cut out, the bush is directed in the right direction.

Transplanting black currants is possible in autumn, spring and even summer. The optimal time for such work is mid-October. Therefore, if you want to collect a lot of berries, follow the above recommendations.

Please tell me when is the best time to replant Grefsheim spirea bushes? Two years ago we planted tiny seedlings with a closed root system and missed the mark. They grow in a more illuminated and warmer part of the garden, next to apple trees and lilacs; the buds have already appeared. Now the bushes have already grown to 60 cm and it has become obvious that they need to be replanted, but I am afraid of ruining them by untimely replanting. And another question about spirea. The same spirea, only the bush is 4-5 years old. Can it be transplanted painlessly or only after severe pruning and with a high risk of loss?

I obviously delayed my answer, but, on the other hand, my answer in May will demonstrate that spirea is a very easy-to-care crop. She is not afraid of transplantation at any age, and with a little tricks, she can be transplanted even in summer.
Strict experts in the plant world rewrite the recommendations from post to post: spirea can be replanted in early spring before buds open or late in autumn after leaf fall. I admire such experts: they manage to do everything in the garden on time. But what about those summer residents who can go to their garden only at the end of April, or even during the May holidays, and in the fall they end the season not at the end of October, but at the beginning of September? Is it really possible to deprive yourself of the joy of having a variety of not only fruit trees, but also beautiful shrubs and bright flowers in your garden?
No way!!! In practice (rarely do I have time to complete all the work in the best possible time!) I am convinced that adult bushes of ornamental crops can be replanted with leaves and even flowers. If you need it, then you need it!
It is important to follow only a few rules.
First, choose the right place for the spirea. Almost all species and varieties love a sunny place, although Grefsheim and other species that bloom in spring can tolerate light partial shade from large trees (which also appears when these spirea have almost faded).
Secondly, clearly mark the planting sites, taking into account what diameter and height this or that species or variety reaches. Spirea Grefsheim by the age of 10 it reaches a diameter of 2 m, and Little Princess only 70-80 cm.
Thirdly, prepare the soil and planting holes at least 3-4 days before planting. Here you need to take into account that heavy soils will have to be loosened with sand and peat, and light soils will have to be “weighted” by adding moisture-retaining materials, for example, finely lumpy clay. Acidic soils need to be limed, but not overdone, because Billard's spirea and all its hybrids do not grow well on calcareous soils. The heavier the soil, the larger the drainage layer should be: from 5 cm on light soils to 20 cm on clay soils.
The hole for planting needs to be dug about a third larger than the earthen ball of the plant being transplanted. But when planting, you need to take into account that the root collar should be at the same level as in the old place.
It is very important to transplant an adult plant in cloudy weather and stock up on an old sheet.
The work algorithm is as follows:
1. The hole was dug and covered with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer in 3-4 days.
2. Towards evening, pour water into the hole and at the same time water the plant that we will replant.
3. We dig up the plant, moving 15-20 cm around the perimeter from the root collar. Carefully trim the roots and take them out along with the earthen lump. If the bush is large, then immediately lay it on a piece of film or fabric and transfer it to the planting hole.
4. We lower the seedling into the planting hole and control the level of the root collar. If necessary, add soil under the roots, or remove a little soil from the bottom of the hole.
5. Fill the planting hole with garden soil, lightly trampling the ground. We water the plant with water with the addition of root. Mulch the tree trunk circle with a thick layer of peat or humus (5-7 cm).
6. We install 3-4 pegs around the perimeter of the bush, as tall as the bush itself.
7. We soak an old sheet or a large piece of gauze in water, wring it out a little and cover the bush completely, pulling it over the pegs. We fix the fabric near the ground so that it does not blow away in the wind.
8. For 3-4 days every day, and in hot dry weather we moisten it with water 2-3 times a day.
9. Then in the evening we remove the fabric and let the spirea grow freely. True, it will be necessary to water regularly for a month, because the plant’s roots are damaged and cannot fully provide the plant with moisture.
If you replant spirea during the flowering period, it is better to trim the inflorescences. In summer-bloomers, this technique will cause repeated flowering, and in spring-bloomers, more abundant flowering next spring.

Popular spring shrubs in the garden are ornamental and fruit. Read: When to replant shrubs in spring?

Shrubs are replanted in the garden during redevelopment, if it is necessary to update and treat the plant or if the planting site was chosen poorly. When to replant shrubs in the spring?

Planting of fruit bushes is carried out in the fall, if the winter period allows young, immature plants to withstand cold weather. Woody flowering shrubs are planted in the spring, flowering, more delicate species - in late spring. It is better to replant shrubs in the spring How the earth warms up and a comfortable air temperature is established. During the same period, grown in containers basics for planting. Remember that shrubs vary by flowering period. Early – viburnum, wolf berries, rowan, Further– serviceberry, forsythia, quince, almond, and finally- spirea, lilac. In summer, barberry, scumpia, hibiscus, deutzia, etc. already bloom. Accordingly, the earlier the shrub blooms, the earlier it is replanted.

When to replant shrubs in spring:

• In early spring before sap flow begins;
• On warm soil;

Before transplanting shrubs, the gardener should have time to prepare the ground, form a planting site, renew fertilizers, and move the shrubs.

Preparing a site for transplanting shrubs in spring

Before digging a hole for replanting shrubs in the spring, the soil is fertilized and loosened. When planting plants from containers - suddenly the shrubs are just starting to live in your garden - you need to take into account their history: did they spend their whole lives like this, waiting for the bright hour of planting, or were they moved for a while for transportation? In peat mixtures– easy to transport – the root system of many shrubs dries out quickly. Taking into account the available indicators, land preparation is carried out.

Shrubs growing in the garden are removed with a shovel, wrapped in polyethylene or a bag, and transferred to a new planting hole, which the gardener has to make.

Land for replanting shrubs in spring:

• Loose, well-drained soil;
• 40% sand – steamed;
• Pour fertilizer into the hole according to the size of the roots: 70 grams of lime, 30 grams of mineral fertilizers per m2;

Step-by-step replanting of shrubs in spring

Landing location fertilized and cleared of weeds. After a week, a hole is dug to the size of the bush. On the day of transplantation, the shrub is removed from the old hole using a garden shovel, trimmed and processed as necessary.

Pack the root system You can wrap it in burlap or film: transfer it to a pre-spread place, wrap the roots. Drag or move the bush to a new hole in which fertilizer has already been placed. If the bush needs to be given a stimulus, then the planting hole is dug one and a half times larger than the previous one - in width and depth.

Before as replant shrubs in spring, fluff the material at the bottom. If you forget to fertilize, use ingredients that you often have on hand - compost, for example. Fill the bottom of the hole, pour a small layer of soil from the site on top.

The transplant is carried out, both small and mature shrubs, so do not forget to take care of the base - drive a stake or build a lattice along which the bush is supposed to branch.

Place the plant vertically, exposing the roots, tying the base to the support, if necessary, and fix the root hole with a mound of earth for stability. The entire hole for replanting shrubs must be filled with earth.

Shed after transplanting the shrub in the spring with water, covering +15 cm around the hole.

↓ Write in the comments about your replanting of shrubs in the spring.

When is the best time to replant trees and shrubs? Let's consider how and when you can replant fruit trees, ornamental trees and shrubs, as well as conifers.

The end of summer - the beginning of autumn is a good time for planting and replanting plants, both fruit and ornamental. In order for new plants to take root well and overwinter successfully, you need to follow some rules.

1. Plant plants with an open root system from the first ten days of April to the second ten days of May and from the second ten days of August to the first ten days of September. When planted at this time, the plants have time to take root and overwinter well.
2. When planting, trim off the plants' inflorescences and some leaves, especially large leaf blades, to prevent excessive evaporation and moisture loss.
3. It is advisable to carry out digging and planting in a new place in one day.
4. After planting or transplanting, the plants are watered and treated with growth stimulants.
5. Do not plant plants together with the container; carefully remove the container without destroying the plant.
6. Do not deepen the root collar of trees and shrubs, especially grafted forms.

When is the best time to replant fruit trees?

Fruit trees are best planted and replanted at the age of 1 - 5 years. If older plants are transplanted, then planting is carried out with a clod of earth approximately equal to the diameter of the crown, packed in a chain-link mesh or burlap, and also using special equipment. This technology is called “large planting”.

• Conducted in late autumn, winter and early spring, with the exception of summer.

When planting and replanting fruit plants with an open root system, it is necessary to maintain high humidity in the root system area so that the small overgrown roots do not dry out. The root system needs to be shortened by about 1/3 so that the roots develop better. When transplanting fruit trees, be sure to trim the above-ground parts in order to balance the crown and root system.

When planting plants in containers, it is important not to destroy the lump and not to bury the root collar to avoid the formation of a large number of shoots.

When is the best time to replant ornamental trees and shrubs?

The highest survival rates are in plants with a closed root system. They can be planted at any time, with the exception of winter.

When planting plants with an open root system, it is necessary to slightly trim the above-ground and underground parts. After this, the plants require regular but moderate watering. It is advisable to spray 2-3 Epin or Zircon on the leaves at intervals of 7-10 days to relieve post-transplant stress in plants. In the first winter after planting, all crops undergo a light
shelter so that the plants overwinter better and take root.

When is the best time to replant conifers?

They can also be planted at any time, provided that the plants are grown in containers. Coniferous plants with an open root system are practically not sold, since their survival rate is extremely low. When planting, plants are watered at the root and treated with stimulants containing iron and silicon - Ferrovit and Siliplant.

Please tell me when is the best time to replant Grefsheim spirea bushes? Two years ago we planted tiny seedlings with a closed root system and missed the mark. They grow in a more illuminated and warmer part of the garden, next to apple trees and lilacs; the buds have already appeared. Now the bushes have already grown to 60 cm and it has become obvious that they need to be replanted, but I am afraid of ruining them by untimely replanting. And another question about spirea. The same spirea, only the bush is 4-5 years old. Can it be transplanted painlessly or only after severe pruning and with a high risk of loss?

I obviously delayed my answer, but, on the other hand, my answer in May will demonstrate that spirea is a very easy-to-care crop. She is not afraid of transplantation at any age, and with a little tricks, she can be transplanted even in summer.
Strict experts in the plant world rewrite the recommendations from post to post: spirea can be replanted in early spring before buds open or late in autumn after leaf fall. I admire such experts: they manage to do everything in the garden on time. But what about those summer residents who can go to their garden only at the end of April, or even during the May holidays, and in the fall they end the season not at the end of October, but at the beginning of September? Is it really possible to deprive yourself of the joy of having a variety of not only fruit trees, but also beautiful shrubs and bright flowers in your garden?
No way!!! In practice (rarely do I have time to complete all the work in the best possible time!) I am convinced that adult bushes of ornamental crops can be replanted with leaves and even flowers. If you need it, then you need it!
It is important to follow only a few rules.
First, choose the right place for the spirea. Almost all species and varieties love a sunny place, although Grefsheim and other species that bloom in spring can tolerate light partial shade from large trees (which also appears when these spirea have almost faded).
Secondly, clearly mark the planting sites, taking into account what diameter and height this or that species or variety reaches. SpireaGrefsheimby the age of 10 it reaches a diameter of 2 m, andLittle Princessonly 70-80 cm.
Thirdly, prepare the soil and planting holes at least 3-4 days before planting. Here you need to take into account that heavy soils will have to be loosened with sand and peat, and light soils will have to be “weighted” by adding moisture-retaining materials, for example, finely lumpy clay. Acidic soils need to be limed, but not overdone, because Billard's spirea and all its hybrids do not grow well on calcareous soils. The heavier the soil, the larger the drainage layer should be: from 5 cm on light soils to 20 cm on clay soils.
The hole for planting needs to be dug about a third larger than the earthen ball of the plant being transplanted. But when planting, you need to take into account that the root collar should be at the same level as in the old place.
It is very important to transplant an adult plant in cloudy weather and stock up on an old sheet.
The work algorithm is as follows:
1. The hole was dug and covered with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer in 3-4 days.
2. Towards evening, pour water into the hole and at the same time water the plant that we will replant.
3. We dig up the plant, moving 15-20 cm around the perimeter from the root collar. Carefully trim the roots and take them out along with the earthen lump. If the bush is large, then immediately lay it on a piece of film or fabric and transfer it to the planting hole.
4. We lower the seedling into the planting hole and control the level of the root collar. If necessary, add soil under the roots, or remove a little soil from the bottom of the hole.
5. Fill the planting hole with garden soil, lightly trampling the ground. We water the plant with water with the addition of root. Mulch the tree trunk circle with a thick layer of peat or humus (5-7 cm).
6. We install 3-4 pegs around the perimeter of the bush, as tall as the bush itself.
7. We soak an old sheet or a large piece of gauze in water, wring it out a little and cover the bush completely, pulling it over the pegs. We fix the fabric near the ground so that it does not blow away in the wind.
8. For 3-4 days every day, and in hot dry weather we moisten it with water 2-3 times a day.
9. Then in the evening we remove the fabric and let the spirea grow freely. True, it will be necessary to water regularly for a month, because the plant’s roots are damaged and cannot fully provide the plant with moisture.
If you replant spirea during the flowering period, it is better to trim the inflorescences. In summer-bloomers, this technique will cause repeated flowering, and in spring-bloomers, more abundant flowering next spring.

Popular spring shrubs in the garden are ornamental and fruit. Read: When to replant shrubs in spring?

Shrubs are replanted in the garden during redevelopment, if it is necessary to update and treat the plant or if the planting site was chosen poorly. When to replant shrubs in the spring?

Planting of fruit bushes is carried out in the fall, if the winter period allows young, immature plants to withstand cold weather. Woody flowering shrubs are planted in the spring, flowering, more delicate species - in late spring. It is better to replant shrubs in the spring How the earth warms up and a comfortable air temperature is established. During the same period, grown in containers basics for planting. Remember that shrubs vary by flowering period. Early – viburnum, wolf berries, rowan, Further– serviceberry, forsythia, quince, almond, and finally- spirea, lilac. In summer, barberry, scumpia, hibiscus, deutzia, etc. already bloom. Accordingly, the earlier the shrub blooms, the earlier it is replanted.

When to replant shrubs in spring:

• In early spring before sap flow begins;
• On warm soil;

Before transplanting shrubs, the gardener should have time to prepare the ground, form a planting site, renew fertilizers, and move the shrubs.

Preparing a site for transplanting shrubs in spring

Before digging a hole for replanting shrubs in the spring, the soil is fertilized and loosened. When planting plants from containers - suddenly the shrubs are just starting to live in your garden - you need to take into account their history: did they spend their whole lives like this, waiting for the bright hour of planting, or were they moved for a while for transportation? In peat mixtures– easy to transport – the root system of many shrubs dries out quickly. Taking into account the available indicators, land preparation is carried out.

Shrubs growing in the garden are removed with a shovel, wrapped in polyethylene or a bag, and transferred to a new planting hole, which the gardener has to make.

Land for replanting shrubs in spring:

• Loose, well-drained soil;
• 40% sand – steamed;
• Pour fertilizer into the hole according to the size of the roots: 70 grams of lime, 30 grams of mineral fertilizers per m2;

Step-by-step replanting of shrubs in spring

Landing location fertilized and cleared of weeds. After a week, a hole is dug to the size of the bush. On the day of transplantation, the shrub is removed from the old hole using a garden shovel, trimmed and processed as necessary.

Pack the root system You can wrap it in burlap or film: transfer it to a pre-spread place, wrap the roots. Drag or move the bush to a new hole in which fertilizer has already been placed. If the bush needs to be given a stimulus, then the planting hole is dug one and a half times larger than the previous one - in width and depth.

Before as replant shrubs in spring, fluff the material at the bottom. If you forget to fertilize, use ingredients that you often have on hand - compost, for example. Fill the bottom of the hole, pour a small layer of soil from the site on top.

The transplant is carried out, both small and mature shrubs, so do not forget to take care of the base - drive a stake or build a lattice along which the bush is supposed to branch.

Place the plant vertically, exposing the roots, tying the base to the support, if necessary, and fix the root hole with a mound of earth for stability. The entire hole for replanting shrubs must be filled with earth.

Shed after transplanting the shrub in the spring with water, covering +15 cm around the hole.

↓ Write in the comments about your replanting of shrubs in the spring.

When is the best time to replant trees and shrubs? Let's consider how and when you can replant fruit trees, ornamental trees and shrubs, as well as conifers.

The end of summer - the beginning of autumn is a good time for planting and replanting plants, both fruit and ornamental. In order for new plants to take root well and overwinter successfully, you need to follow some rules.

1. Plant plants with an open root system from the first ten days of April to the second ten days of May and from the second ten days of August to the first ten days of September. When planted at this time, the plants have time to take root and overwinter well.
2. When planting, trim off the plants' inflorescences and some leaves, especially large leaf blades, to prevent excessive evaporation and moisture loss.
3. It is advisable to carry out digging and planting in a new place in one day.
4. After planting or transplanting, the plants are watered and treated with growth stimulants.
5. Do not plant plants together with the container; carefully remove the container without destroying the plant.
6. Do not deepen the root collar of trees and shrubs, especially grafted forms.

When is the best time to replant fruit trees?

It is better to plant and replant fruit trees at the age of 1 - 5 years. If older plants are transplanted, then planting is carried out with a clod of earth approximately equal to the diameter of the crown, packed in a chain-link mesh or burlap, and also using special equipment. This technology is called “large planting”.

• Conducted in late autumn, winter and early spring, with the exception of summer.

When planting and replanting fruit plants with an open root system, it is necessary to maintain high humidity in the root system area so that the small overgrown roots do not dry out. The root system needs to be shortened by about 1/3 so that the roots develop better. When transplanting fruit trees, be sure to trim the above-ground parts in order to balance the crown and root system.

When planting plants in containers, it is important not to destroy the lump and not to bury the root collar to avoid the formation of a large number of shoots.

When is the best time to replant ornamental trees and shrubs?

The highest survival rates are for plants with a closed root system. They can be planted at any time, with the exception of winter.

When planting plants with an open root system, it is necessary to slightly trim the above-ground and underground parts. After this, the plants require regular but moderate watering. It is advisable to carry out 2-3 sprayings of “Epin” or “Zircon” on the leaves with an interval of 7-10 days - to relieve post-transplant stress in plants. In the first winter after planting, all crops undergo a light
shelter so that the plants overwinter better and take root.

When is the best time to replant conifers?

They can also be planted at any time, provided that the plants are grown in containers. Coniferous plants with an open root system are practically not sold, since their survival rate is extremely low. When planting, plants are watered at the root and treated with stimulants containing iron and silicon - Ferrovit and Siliplant.

20.03.2018

There are times when a gardener needs to replant mature plants. For example:

• You have decided to build a gazebo or a bathhouse, or have started landscaping on your site, and mature trees fall into the building area.
• A tree or shrub grows poorly and does not exhibit its natural decorative properties.
• Perennials grow at high speed and fill areas not intended for them, or they live in one place for too long, bloom poorly and lose their decorative effect.

The best time to replant plants

The most successful and least traumatic months for replanting trees, shrubs and perennials are spring and autumn. At the same time, spring transplants are preferable, since there is no danger of frost, and during the active growing season there is a greater likelihood of painless survival.

Transplanting perennial flowers

Many perennial flowers cannot grow in one place for a long time and remain in “ideal shape.” After several years of successful flowering, they need to be transplanted to a new site. This period is different for each plant. , Volzhanka, kupena, for example, can grow in one place for 10 years or more, daylilies, phlox will bloom beautifully in one place for about 6 - 7 years, but it is better to replant irises and lilies every 4 years. In the reference literature, such data is given for each plant, so when determining the timing, be guided by them.

For many perennial flowers, there are “best” seasons for propagation by division. For example, for irises this is the end of flowering - the end of June, for lilies - the end of August - September, for peonies - September, for hostas - before the rosette of leaves begins to unfold. It is better to clarify these dates for each perennial separately. If you have forgotten how many years your flower has been growing in one place, focus on the quality of its flowering, the appearance and the neglect of the clump (usually it becomes bald from the center to the periphery).

Perennial flowers with a shallow root system are not difficult to replant. It is advisable to dig them up and carry them with a clod of earth.

If a perennial has a deep-rooted root, it can be damaged during replanting, and then the plant will not take root. In this case, it is advisable to carefully separate the daughter plants with a still small root and replant it, but do not touch the main one. Poppies, delphiniums, aquilegias, dicentras and lupins have similar roots.

Transplanting mature trees

Transplanting mature trees is more labor-intensive and there is a possibility that the plant will not take root in the new location. There is also the difficulty of transporting the plant to a new location, because the dug up specimen can be quite heavy even for two people.

The best time to transplant mature trees is autumn (a month before the onset of frost) and spring (before the buds swell). For replanting, it is better to choose a cloudy day or evening to avoid drying out the root system in the sun.

A new place for plants should be chosen as close as possible to the current growing conditions.

The hole for planting should be prepared in advance, at least 2 weeks before transplantation, so that it settles, warms up and weathers. The size of the hole should be commensurate with the size of the plant's root system. The size of the root system is determined by the size of the tree crown. As a rule, the depth of the hole will not exceed 80 cm, but its width should correspond to the size of the root system and be slightly larger.

If the soil in the new location is depleted, fertile soil should be added depending on the preferences of the transplanted plant. An excess of fertilizers in the hole can negatively affect survival rate, so do not overdo it. Before planting, the hole is spilled with water, and a small mound of fertile soil is created in the center on which the tree will be installed.

Ideally, a plant should be replanted with a lump of earth. It is quite easy to replant a tree up to 3 - 5 years old, since it does not yet have a very large root system; older trees are more difficult to replant and their survival rate is lower.

To begin with, at some distance from the tree trunk, a trench about 2 bayonets deep is dug. Its diameter depends on the size of the crown. It is important to keep in mind that tree branches will have to be trimmed immediately or later in order to maintain a balance between the root system and the crown. It will be necessary to cut off all dry and diseased branches and remove young growth.

Once the trench is dug, you will see the roots of your plant and can carefully cut them with pruning shears. The remaining roots with a lump of earth will need to be carefully dug up with a pitchfork or shovel, slowly rocking the trunk, and pull the plant out of the ground.

To prevent the roots from drying out, it is advisable to plant the plant in a new location as quickly as possible.

When planting any plant, it is important to press it well to the ground, but not to bury the root system too deeply. The neck of the plant should be above the ground level at a height of 6-8 cm. The trunk must be aligned vertically and tied to spacers so that the wind does not knock down a plant that has not yet taken root. The places where the twine comes into contact with the trunk should be wrapped with burlap, cardboard or bark.

A newly planted plant should be well watered with water and a root system stimulator (heteroauxin, root). After watering, mulch the soil with humus. The planted tree must be provided with good watering (especially in dry weather in summer) and protection from the scorching sun. During the first summer and winter after transplantation, the tree trunk can be wrapped in burlap or moss to prevent excess moisture evaporation.

It is better to fertilize transplanted trees no earlier than every other year.

Replanting shrubs

It is easier to replant a fruit or ornamental shrub than an adult tree, since it is easier to dig it up, save an earthen ball and is easier to move it to a new place. The replanting rules for shrubs are the same as for trees. The bushes take root quite easily in a new place, but they will also need shading from too strong rays of light at first.

House project “Time to create gardens”

Tsyganova Oksana

This procedure is sometimes carried out by gardeners on their plots. There are many reasons to transplant already formed plants to a new location: for example, soil conditions (often together with climate conditions). It happens that the place where the bush has grown for several years begins to be flooded with melt or rainwater, or the bush suddenly begins to freeze every year. Or the conditions are purely domestic, when, for example, a neighbor built a fence, and now your bush is in the shade, or the bird cherry tree has grown so large that the currant bush growing nearby no longer has enough space.

One way or another, we are faced with the task of transplanting the bush to a new location. And at the same time, you need to do this so that after transplantation the bush does not take root for too long and quickly bears fruit again.

At first glance, everything seems banal and simple: the bush needs to be dug up and replanted, but in reality, everything is far from being so. Often, after such a transplant, shrubs simply die or get sick and take a very long time to take root.

In order for everything to go smoothly, in this article we will provide general recommendations for replanting, give some important tips, and then analyze the replanting scheme for each group of shrubs.

Choosing a location. You need to pick it up before you start transplanting. This time, try to choose the most suitable place, not flooded with melt or rain water, not in dense shade, with nutritious and loose soil. Be sure to choose a place based on cultural characteristics. Let's say blueberries love acidic and moist soil, and currants love neutral and moderately moist soil, and so on.

Prepare the planting hole. Of course, it is difficult to calculate what it should be when the roots of the bush are still in the soil, but you can dig a larger hole, say one meter wide and deep. Such a hole will fit the root system of most shrubs. And if the roots are still cramped, then the hole can be quickly expanded; this will still be faster than digging a hole when the roots of the bush have already been removed from the soil.

When digging up a shrub, do not start digging out the roots directly from the trunk(s), but first dig in the perimeter(carefully, trying not to damage the roots). Decide on the area where they are located and, digging up the side roots, slowly move closer to the center of the bush. After this, you can simply pry the bush with a shovel and remove it from the soil.

Digging up and replanting any shrub, try to keep as many roots intact as possible and leave as much soil on them as possible. There is no need to shake off the soil, much less wash the roots with water. It can even be dangerous, especially if it's hot outside.

After digging up and planting any shrub in a new place, it needs to be provided with constant watering so that the soil does not dry out. At the same time, you should not turn the soil into a swamp; it is enough to just keep the soil moist. Watering can be combined with fertilizing, adding a tablespoon of nitroammophoska in the spring, a teaspoon of potassium sulfate and superphosphate in the middle of summer, and in the autumn it is useful to mulch the soil surface in the bush area with wood ash (200-250 g per plant). Ash can be applied to any shrubs except blueberries, because ash can deoxidize the soil.

Transfer time. For these purposes, it is better to choose late autumn or early spring, but if you are replanting very large shrubs, then this can be done in winter. In summer, replanting plants even with a lump of earth is very risky, especially if you do not have the opportunity to provide the shrub with sufficient moisture and nutrition after planting. By the way, about nutrition: the fertilizers that we gave in the example (with the exception of ash) are best applied dissolved in water.

Try to replant shrubs as quickly as possible. Remember: the faster the bush is back in the soil, the greater the chance of its rapid establishment in a new place. Usually, most of the time is spent on digging up shrubs, but planting is usually done in a matter of minutes. This must be taken into account and time allocated correctly.

We take out the bush with a lump of earth. We move the bush with a lump of earth to a new place. We plant the transplanted bush into the planting hole.

How to replant bushes of currants, gooseberries, honeysuckle, serviceberry, viburnum, blueberries and other similar crops

So, you need to replant the shrub with one of the specified species. You should start by choosing the optimal time for transplantation. We have already indicated the deadlines, but they may depend on your climate region. For example, in the northern regions, the optimal time to transplant shrubs is spring. Under no circumstances should you delay replanting: as soon as the snow melts, go to the site and replant so that the bush opens its buds when it wakes up in a new place. This increases the chances of success of your business many times over. It is advisable to complete the transplantation before the end of March, because during this period active sap flow in the plants begins. If you feel that you don’t have time, then don’t take risks; it’s better to postpone the transplant until late autumn, that is, until mid-November.

As we have already indicated, shrubs can be replanted in the summer. This is risky, but if you can keep as many roots intact as possible, do not destroy the clod of earth, and can provide the shrub with moisture and nutrition in the future, then you can take the risk.

It will be easiest to dig up honeysuckle, blueberries and currants; gooseberries are more difficult (because of their thorns), but the hardest ones to dig up are shadberry and viburnum. If the viburnum bush is already more than five years old, and the serviceberry bush is more than seven years old, then it will be very difficult for you, since the root system of these plants is quite strong and penetrates to great depths. Here you can dig holes a meter wide, but it’s better to make them a meter and a half deep.

All these plants love open, well-lit areas and moderately moist soil. Blueberries prefer moist and acidic soil, this must be kept in mind; viburnum is tolerant of acid in the soil, but loves areas where there is more moisture.

Prepare the soil for planting in advance, dig up the soil with a shovel full, and remove the weeds. It is advisable to fertilize the soil, add 4-5 kg ​​of well-rotted manure and 250-300 g of wood ash (just not for blueberries), you can also add a tablespoon of nitroammophoska per square meter. For blueberries, the soil needs to be mixed with acidic peat in equal parts, or even better, dig a hole, line it from the inside with plastic film, fill it with acidic peat and plant a blueberry bush in it.

When replanting several bushes of these plants, try to place them so that the distance between them is two meters, and if the bushes are very spreading, then three (in the case of shadberry, 3.5 meters is the norm).

Before digging, prepare a planting hole: pour expanded clay or broken brick into its base in a layer of a couple of centimeters, put a couple of shovels of a nutrient mixture on top, which can be prepared by mixing 5-6 kg of fertile soil, 2-3 kg of humus, 15-20 g of potassium sulfate and 90-100 g of superphosphate. Next, water the hole well and it will be ready to plant shrubs in it. By the way, when preparing a hole for planting red currants, you can add a couple of kilograms of river sand to the mixture.

The hole is ready, you can now begin moving the bush to a new location. By the way, about transferring: if the desired and final places are far from each other, then it is advisable to stock up on a tarpaulin so that the bush can be conveniently transferred, and not drag it by the shoots, risking breaking them (especially red currants).

Before digging, inspect the above-ground part: remove, by cutting into a ring, all the old shoots that no longer bear fruit, if any, dried out, and shorten the young growths by half.

Next, as we already advised, dig around the bush. For currants and gooseberries, you can retreat 30 centimeters from the base, for honeysuckle and blueberries, 20 cm is enough, for serviceberry and viburnum, you can retreat a little more - 35-40 cm. Having retreated the required distance, you need to carefully and gradually deepen the bayonet of the shovel by one and a half - two, then dig up the plant from all sides and slowly, moving towards the center, try to remove it from the soil. If you come across several powerful and long lateral roots along the way, then it is quite possible to cut them off.

Remember that all the described crops have very fragile shoots that are easily torn from the roots, so when digging a plant from the soil, do not pull the shoots, try to pry up the roots with a shovel and pull them.

As soon as the bush is removed from the soil, you need to act without delay, otherwise the roots may dry out. You should moisten the soil in the planting hole by pouring three or four buckets of water and install the roots on this nutrient liquid. When planting, we strongly recommend placing the bushes relative to the cardinal directions, as they grew before. This is easy to understand: shoots from the south side are usually darker, as if tanned, and shoots from the north are lighter (paler).

You need to place the bush in the hole so that it is in the center, so that the roots are evenly distributed over the hole, do not ride up or break, and so that the root collar is immersed in the soil a couple of centimeters. After planting, all that remains is to compact the soil, water it with a couple of buckets of water and mulch it with a layer of humus a couple of centimeters deep.

How to replant a bush of grapes, actinidia, lemongrass and other vines

It is better to replant grapes and vines in the autumn. The signal to start replanting is usually the complete fall of the foliage. This means that the plant has entered the dormant stage. The main thing here is to have time to transplant the plant to a new place at least a week before the onset of serious frosts, and of course, to prevent damage to the root system. If the winter turned out to be early and you did not have time to replant the grapes and vines, then it is quite possible to wait until spring. The main thing here is to have time to complete the transplant ten days before the buds begin to open.

Transplanting both grapes and vines, as well as currant bushes, usually begins with preparing a hole for planting, similar to the hole for currants and similar crops. When the planting hole is ready, you can begin preparing the plants for digging. To do this, stop watering the vines and grapes three days before transplanting, then you will need to leave a couple of sleeves with young vines, a year or two old, near the grapes. In this case, the topmost shoots need to be cut into two or three eyes, and all cuts should be covered with garden varnish. Only after this can the grape bush be dug up, 45-55 cm away from the center, and removed from the soil in the same way as digging up a currant bush.

As for vines, you can leave two or three of the youngest shoots, located as well as possible, while the rest can be removed. When digging, you can move away from the center, in the case of vines, by 35-40 cm, the rest of the steps are exactly the same.

In the future, after planting grapes and vines, after compacting the soil, watering it and mulching, it is necessary to remove all flowers during the first flowering in order to allow the plants to fully develop in the new place. The next season it is necessary to remove part of the inflorescences: about half for grapes, and about a third for vines. Do not forget to provide the plants with sufficient moisture and nutrition during this period.

How to replant a bush of raspberries, blackberries, raspberries and similar crops

Raspberry, blackberry and raspberry bushes tolerate replanting best if done in the autumn. Autumn replanting is especially favorable for the southern regions and central Russia; in colder regions it is better to replant these plants in the spring.

Both raspberries, blackberries, and raspberries are light-loving plants, so a new place for them must be open and well-lit. Tomatoes, cucumbers and cabbage are considered excellent predecessors for raspberries, blackberries and raspberries. It is not advisable to plant crops in the same place where crops from the same family grew: they may have common diseases that have accumulated over the years of their cultivation.

The soil for raspberries and blackberries needs to be well prepared, dug up with a shovel full, add a bucket of humus or well-rotted manure, as well as a tablespoon of nitroammophoska and 300 g of wood ash per square meter. Ezhemalina also requires thorough disposal of weeds, especially wheatgrass on the site.

The diameter of the planting hole for raspberries should be 55-60 cm wide and 45-50 cm deep, for blackberries - 40-50 cm wide and 30-40 cm deep, for blackberries - 35-40 cm wide and 45-50 cm deep. Distance between the holes, when transplanting several raspberry plants, should be 45-55 cm, blackberries - 50-60 cm, raspberries - 55-65 cm.

If you have a choice, then for replanting use the most powerful, well-developed plants with stem diameters of at least a centimeter. It is advisable to cut the shoots to about a meter from the soil surface, but for raspberries it is possible to cut them to 50 cm.

When digging up plants, you need to step back 35-40 cm from the base of raspberries, 30-35 cm of blackberries, 40-45 cm of raspberries. Next, dig according to the same scheme, but with one caveat: if the roots are exposed during digging, then they must be dipped before planting into a clay mash. When planting, try not to bury the plants, especially for blackberries; if you deepen the root collar too much, a large amount of root shoots will form, so it is better to place the seedling in such a way that the root collar is exactly at soil level. After planting, you need to water the soil by pouring out 2-3 buckets of water, then mulch it with humus, a layer of a couple of centimeters.

These are some simple techniques for transplanting shrubs to a new place, using which you will get a good result in the form of a plant that has come to life in a new area, gaining strength and actively bearing fruit over time.

In conclusion, literally I would like to say a few words about strawberries. I very often hear the question: is it possible to replant garden strawberries during flowering? We answer, this can be done, but first it is advisable to cut off all the flowers, so that after replanting the plant devotes its energy to restoring the lost parts of the root system and does not waste energy on forming a crop.

" Currant

In gardening practice there are often situations that require transplanting currants to a new location. Most often this is due to an error in choosing a location, depletion of the soil under the bush, or redevelopment of the site.

Transplanting an adult shrub to another place - great stress for the plant, which is accompanied by pain and often leads to his death.

Therefore, the procedure must be carried out taking into account the biological characteristics and the annual cycle of currants.

When is it better to transplant currants to a new place: in autumn or spring, in which month?

Which month is more favorable? The timing of currant transplantation depends entirely on the climatic conditions of the region. In regions with harsh winters When the air temperature drops below 30°C, spring transplantation is preferable.

But at the same time, it is important to take into account the characteristics of the annual cycle of a crop that enters the growing season early. After the start of sap flow, the shrub will receive a double load, trying to take root and at the same time increasing the green mass.

Spring transplant carried out after the soil has completely thawed, the temperature has risen to +1°C and before the buds swell. This limits the timing of transplantation and reduces the time for quiet rooting to three weeks.

There are many more favorable factors when transplanting currants in autumn. This is a stable temperature until the first frost, which gives time for the roots to adapt to a new location.

In addition, in the fall, currant cells contain much more nutrients and a downward current prevails, which contribute to the rapid healing of root wounds and give strength for recovery.

Therefore, in the middle and southern regions of gardening, shrubs prefer to replant in the fall. It is important to determine the most accurate timing; there should be at least three weeks left before the first frost.

The ideal time for transplantation is the period between September 10-15, it is at this time that the most active growth of absorbed roots is observed. This factor significantly increases the survival rate of currants.

Stages of proper transplantation of an adult bush

The basis for successful transplantation of an adult shrub- correct choice of location, preparation of soil and bushes.

Selection and preparation of a site

Red and white currants are heat-loving plants. For them, leveled areas are selected, oriented to the south or southwest. In such areas, the soil is warmed by the sun's rays, is well aerated and water does not stagnate.

Black and green currants less demanding plants. Good indicators of a stable harvest are observed when planting on slopes in a northern or northeastern direction. Short-term shading is acceptable.

The best predecessors of currants are row crops, which help clear the area of ​​rhizomatous weeds. These are potatoes, beets, corn, buckwheat and beans.

Not suitable for growing lowland currants and closed basins where cold air stagnates and humidity increases. This contributes to the development of fungal diseases and the appearance of root rot.

The selected place is dug up in early spring to a depth of 40 cm with the application of fertilizers per 1 m2:

• compost or manure 10 kg;
• double superphosphate 10 g;
• potassium chloride 7 g.

In the summer, in August, the site is dug up again and form a hole for bushes. For spring transplantation, the site is prepared in the fall.

When deciding on the size of the pit, they are guided by the volume of the bush. In most cases a depth of 40 cm and a width of 60 cm is sufficient. For tall and remontant varieties, a depth of 60-70 cm will be required. The distance between bushes is at least 1.5 meters.

After digging, the hole is filled 1/3 with substrate from mixed components:

• the top layer of garden soil from the pit;
• rotted manure or compost 10 kg;
• superphosphate 300 g (for black currants) 200 g (red, white);
• wood ash 400 g or potassium sulfate 30 g.

For red and white currants, dig a hole deeper and at the bottom a drainage layer of expanded clay or broken brick is formed, no more than 15% of the total volume.

After that the hole is spilled with 1-2 buckets of water. Before transplanting the currants, all conditions for comfortable adaptation of the roots will be created inside the hole.

The substrate is structured and saturated with moisture, and the added minerals and organic matter will take forms that are easy for the plant to assimilate and will not cause burns to the roots.

Transplanting currants:

Preparing red and black currant bushes

During replanting, the volume of the roots of the shrub will significantly decrease, which makes it difficult for the vegetative mass to feed. Therefore, currants trimmed 2-3 weeks before the upcoming event, leaving only areas significant for fruiting and development. When planting in autumn, pruning can be done in the spring, before the buds swell.

At the base of the bush there is a branching zone. Strong side shoots grow from it; at a height of 30-40 cm, the fruiting zone begins, characterized by weak branching. The shoots here are short, but with developed flower buds, so most of the harvest is placed on them.

On the top The branches also produce fruit buds en masse, which are noticeably weaker and produce only small berries. Therefore, the main branches of the bush are cut by 1/3, without fear of harm to the next season’s harvest. After pruning, the average height of the currant should be 45-50 cm.

Productivity of currant fruit 5 years, there is no point in leaving outdated branches on the bush. The development of currants is hampered by tops, shoots and dried branches; these should also be removed.

You should not combine pruning shrubs with replanting. This is a double load for the plant, which will distribute forces to heal wounds and adapt roots to a new location. This can cause the death of currants.

You can transplant it to another place!

During replanting, a groove 30-35 cm deep is dug around the tree trunk circle, 40 cm away from the trunk. After this, you need to carefully pull the bush at the base of the branches, cut off the holding roots with a bayonet shovel.

For the convenience of the event currant branches are tied like a spindle. Additionally, this will protect against breakage of fruit branches. The dug up shrubs are placed on a tarpaulin for transportation to the planting site.

Further inspect the roots, clean them of pests, cut off dried and rotten areas. The disinfection procedure is carried out by placing the roots of the plant in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes.

A shrub with healthy roots is transplanted without pre-treatment.

At the bottom of the planting hole form a mound from the prepared substrate and spill 1-2 buckets of water. After this, wait until the water is absorbed. Planting in an environment that is too humid will lead to excessive shrinkage of the shrub, which often causes improper development.

It is also taken into account that the root collar of the bush should remain 5 cm below the surface of the substrate.

With respect to the cardinal directions, the currants are placed in the same way as before. Currant roots are distributed over the surface of the mound, preventing unnatural bends upward.

When filling the roots, make sure that no voids are formed., which often become the cause of decay. To do this, the bush is periodically shaken during the procedure.

The surface is compacted and a hole for watering is formed around the trunk circle. Water (20 l) is poured in gradually, waiting until completely absorbed. With this type of watering, the water completely covers the roots, increasing their contact with the soil.

After this, the tree trunk circle and hole are mulched with peat, humus or turf soil.

After care

After transplanting, the shrub will need the help of a gardener. The soil in the tree trunk circle is maintained in a constantly loose state. This is necessary to create an optimal balance of water and air for adequate nutrition and respiration of the roots.

At the base of the bush, loosening is carried out to a depth of 5-6 cm, closer to the watering hole up to 15 cm.

In autumn, the bush is prepared for winter:

• clean the tree trunk circle from plant debris;
• lay a layer of peat or straw mulch at least 15 cm in height;
• cover the trunk with spruce branches;
• spray with fungicides;
• the branches are collected towards the center and tied with twine;
• They pull snow towards the bushes.

In the first two weeks after planting, if there is no rain, will need regular watering every other day. In such a way that the soil is moistened to a depth of 60 cm. For this, 3-4 buckets of water are used.

In the first year, currants will not need fertilizing. After two weeks, the timing of irrigation is determined by the condition of the soil under the bush.

The crumbling of soil into small pieces after squeezing in your hand indicates the need for urgent watering. This indicator is used throughout the growing season.

Weakened shrubs are most attractive to pests and diseases, which is explained by a temporary loss of stability. Therefore, the gardener’s task during this period is complete control over the currants, especially in the first year of development.

A Insecticides and fungicides can help with this, which can be prepared from herbal ingredients or purchased ready-made preparations.

How to transplant a currant bush without risk, part 1:

How to transplant a currant bush without risk, part 2.