How to properly prune faded rose flowers. Pruning roses after flowering in summer: video, photo, description of work. Pruning large-flowered climbers and scrubs

21.04.2020

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Most rose bushes require repeated pruning throughout the year: in spring, summer and fall. Throughout the warm season, you need to do sanitary pruning: broken, diseased, old or simply excess shoots and leaves are constantly removed so that they do not take away the strength of the plant. Roses must be pruned after flowering to stimulate new growth and maintain the decorative appearance of the bush. Let's take a closer look at how to properly prune roses after flowering, and how pruning varietal roses should be carried out in accordance with the rules; it has its differences depending on the season and the variety of flowers.

Roses are the most famous, delightful and beautiful flowers. They are able to transform any place in a few seconds, making it romantic, fabulous and mysterious. They look great both on clubs and in a vase. However, in order for this plant to delight us with its beautiful appearance and rich flowering, they need to create the necessary conditions in which they feel comfortable.

It should also be taken into account that a large role in caring for roses need to pay them pruning , as this helps preserve the viability of plants. Plus, this will give the bush the desired shape, speed up its growth and have a beneficial effect on the abundance of flowering. It is precisely because of this that the competent pruning simply necessary for your roses .

Types of Rose Pruning

There are 4 types of pruning, each of them has its own effect on roses. So:

Average. Do it for 7 kidneys. Thanks to it, decorativeness is ensured.
Strong. Do it at the level of 4 buds from the base of the shoot. But keep in mind that it is used for weakened bushes as a last chance.
Combined. This is the most popular type of pruning, thanks to which flowering resumes very quickly.
Weak. Used to remove faded inflorescences.

According to experts, pruning roses after flowering should be minimal. You must remove the inflorescences up to the first developed bud and, of course, the faded flowers. It is very important to consider the type of roses.

So, for example, for those plants that bloom in tassels, you need to trim the tassels under the 3rd leaf. Plus, pruning is best done on outdoor soil.

As for floribunda and hybrid tea roses, here you need to leave 3 leaves above the soil level.

If your roses bloom late and new shoots do not have time to bloom, then remove only faded flowers. But for “rambler” roses you need to remove the brushes down to the first leaf.

Important rules for pruning roses

When pruning roses, be sure to follow these rules:

Trimming should only be done with sharp scissors. This will help avoid torn cuts.
Be sure to rinse the instrument in hot water and disinfect it.
Be sure to remove diseased, weak and dead shoots.
Also gently cut off growths that have thick, long hairs.

As you can see, pruning roses after flowering - easy work. However, be sure to follow all recommendations, as the appearance of the plant depends on this.

Pruning roses - how to do it correctly?

By pruning we stimulate the appearance of new buds. To prune a rose correctly, you need to cut at the outer bud. We are looking for a well-developed leaf, retreat 0.5 cm above the leaf and trim at 45 degrees. In this case, our bush will be correctly formed, the rose will be able to breathe, we will minimize the risk of diseases, because the bush will be well ventilated.

The main purpose of summer pruning is the timely removal of wilted flowers that are pulling from the plant. You should not leave inflorescences on the bush whose petals have already begun to fall, otherwise you may destroy the roses. With proper pruning for the next season, you can get the maximum number of beautiful large buds.

Basic rules for pruning roses

For work, take pruning shears and high gloves to protect your hands from scratches. The tool must be sharp and clean to avoid the plant becoming infected. Proper pruning of roses involves removing all diseased, dead, weakened shoots. They are cut down to ground level.

Branches growing inside the bush must be thinned. Roses should be pruned in such a way as to prevent thickening and provide free air circulation to the crop. Such conditions prevent the development of powdery mildew, black spot and rust on the bush. It is considered correct to trim branches that are too thin so that the plant does not waste its energy on them. Before winter, shoots with a diameter smaller than a pencil will not have time to grow stronger and will freeze. Basic rules of procedure:

Roses should be pruned in dry weather;
You need to use sharp pruning shears, and if the stem is thicker than 2 cm, it is better to use a garden saw;
pruning is done to the white core of the branches;
the procedure begins after the first flowering, and the cut is made approximately 8 millimeters above the location of the external growth buds (“eyes”);
the correct cut is smooth, without jagged edges and tilted towards the bud up to 0.5 cm (if pruned incorrectly, the plant may die);
The pruning area must be lubricated with garden varnish.

If you prune roses properly after flowering, you will stimulate their growth. If the rules of procedure are neglected, the bush may die. If the cut is made above the bud, the stem will dry out and die; below, damage to the “eye” may occur and infection may occur. If the cut is tilted incorrectly, the bud will begin to retain moisture, gradually rotting.

It is also worth pruning the wild growth that grows on rose bushes below the grafting site and at the roots. It is correct to remove such shoots immediately after detection and right down to the base, since they weaken the grafted crop, reducing its resistance to disease. You can identify wild growth by its small leaves and rough stems.

If you see nut-like formations on the branches - galls, the stems with them must be cut off. The gall moth larvae breed in the galls; they feed on plant sap, depleting the rose.

Park roses

Even though this type of flower is resistant to low temperatures, they still need to be pruned to produce new side shoots next season. For this purpose, all strong growths after flowering of the plant are shortened by 5-10 cm. The correct procedure is this:

pre-sterilize and sharpen instruments;
identify the weak points of the bush (dry, damaged, shoots growing below the grafting site, branches rubbing against each other, etc.);
choose the optimal cutting location (for long, thin shoots, this is a height of 70-90 cm, but not lower than the red buds);
remove all diseased branches, leaving only healthy wood;
make cuts at an angle of 45 degrees and 0.5 cm above the healthy kidney;
Cut off all faded inflorescences to the first leaf of a healthy bud.

Climbing

In this case, pruning roses after flowering involves removing old canes as new ones grow. It is correct to form the bushes horizontally, and be sure to completely remove 1-2 old branches. They are replaced by any new root shoots. If there are none, then a couple of old stems are cut to a height of 35-40 cm from the base. Other features of proper pruning of climbing roses:

old branches need to be cut to the place where strong growth has appeared - it will serve as a conductor;
short shoots that should bloom in the future are shortened to 2-3 buds (or up to 15 cm in length);
weakened branches are shortened so that only 2-3 buds remain on them;
the procedure should be carried out in August – September.

Video

If you start growing roses, be prepared for such an important procedure as pruning after flowering. Thanks to it, plants develop and bloom better. To make the procedure go smoothly, we will share with you a few tricks.

Pruning roses allows you to rejuvenate the plant, strengthen its root system, improve metabolism and thereby promote abundant flowering. In addition, after this procedure, the bush acquires an aesthetic appearance and better tolerates winter frosts. Plants that have been pruned have increased resistance to diseases and pests.

In order for all of the above to come true, you need to do the pruning correctly. If this is your first time doing this, don't be afraid to make a mistake. Of course, not everything will work out right away, but over time you will teach beginners yourself. All that remains is to arm yourself with high-quality tools and information about the needs of the plants to be pruned!

Rose pruning tools

Before you start pruning, prepare all the necessary tools. Remember that they must be clean, sharp and dry to ensure that the roses remain healthy after the procedure. Be sure to wear thick gloves that will protect your hands from thorns. To work with large bushes, wear long sleeves and thick pants. As for the inventory itself, you will need:

bypass pruner - for live and dry thin shoots;
pruning shears with an anvil - only for dry branches;
lopper or garden saw - for thick living shoots.

You may also need knee pads to keep your clothes from getting dirty when trimming thick dead shoots, and a small rake for clearing up fallen leaves.

Rules for pruning roses

You can start pruning in August or September. It is better to choose a sunny and windless day. The main goal is to remove faded buds, weak, diseased and fattening shoots. It is also worth thinning out the center of the bush so that more light and air enter it, and cut some of the healthy shoots into cuttings for subsequent propagation.

Remove faded roses immediately, without waiting for the petals to fall. This way the bush will retain its strength for flowering. Moreover, for large-flowered roses, the stem with a flower, incomplete leaves and 1-2 five-fold leaves is cut off. And in multi-flowered plants, the entire inflorescence is above the first leaf.

It is important to make the correct cuts, which will allow the plant to recover faster. The cut and its edges should be even and smooth. The angle of inclination is 45 degrees, the distance from the kidney upward is approximately 5 mm. Dead shoots need to be trimmed until the shoot inside turns white. Also remove all thin shoots and shoots, they only prevent the bush from gaining strength for flowering. The correct cut option is shown in the diagram below.

Cut weak shoots firmly, large shoots with less force. And don’t be afraid to cut off the excess, the plant will quickly recover!

Treat large sections with disinfectants (for example, RanNet paste, BlagoSad putty), garden varnish or charcoal to prevent infection. Small cuts up to 5 mm in length will quickly heal on their own, so you don’t have to coat them with anything. Be sure to remove cut shoots and leaves around the bush to prevent rotting.

Now let’s look at the rules for pruning popular groups of roses.

If each shoot is crowned with a glass, you have a hybrid tea rose. It usually blooms on the current year's cuttings and requires careful pruning into a ball shape.

Feel free to cut strong branches in half, thin branches - higher, by 2-3 internodes or one third of the length of the shoot. Also be sure to remove or shorten weak shoots that grow inside the bush.

Floribunda roses are characterized by abundant and slow flowering. They are more unpretentious than hybrid tea roses, although they were obtained by crossing the latter with polyanthus varieties.

The bush must bloom completely before pruning. Then carefully cut off the faded inflorescences. Shorten thick shoots by half, leaving 3-5 buds, and young shoots by one third, so that up to 10 buds remain. This will prevent the plant from becoming too depleted after pruning. Cut out the old shoots in the middle of the bush completely.

If you do not prune the floribunda, the bush will grow with weak stems and small flowers.

Scrubs are universal and are used for both vertical and horizontal gardening. Their peculiarity: flower buds are mainly located on the upper part of the shoot.

Depending on the variety, pruning may vary, so you will have to rely a little on your intuition as you work to maintain the natural shape of the bush. Leave 3-5 of the strongest shoots on the entire bush, and 6-8 developed buds on them. Shorten the shoots by one quarter or a third, dry shoots - completely. Leave evenly spaced healthy shoots intact. Also prune thin, watery stems to prevent them from freezing during frosts.

There is no need to trim the rose hips. For thinning, you can use the same technology as for bush roses (scrubs).

Ground cover roses differ from their relatives by spreading shoots along the ground, which look great along paths and in the foreground of flower beds.

In autumn, plants also need pruning. Weak and diseased branches and old shoots must be removed. It is enough to shorten strong shoots a little. Cut the side branches on which there was flowering into 2-3 buds. Also remove all side stems that deprive the rose of its decorative effect.

There should be no intersecting shoots in the center of the bush. If there are any, they will also have to be trimmed.

Climbing, or climbing, roses require regular pruning. They bloom in the second year, so no pruning is done in the first year. For flowering plants, at the end of August or beginning of September, cut off all diseased shoots, and shorten those that were blooming by 3 buds. Cut off old branches heavily, leaving 30 cm from the level of the root collar.

There are 2 types of climbing roses: ramblers and climbers, the pruning of which has some differences.

Ramblers have thin and flexible shoots, like grapes. The plant blooms on last year's shoots with a scattering of small flowers.

After flowering, cut out the shoots with buds completely, and pinch out the unripe ones. Trim very carefully, otherwise the plant may not bloom again. There are different types of ramblers:

once flowering: when pruned, 6-10 strong shoots are left, 3-5 annual and biennial shoots each; the timing of the main pruning is the end of summer;
re-blooming: when pruning, 1-3 annual and 3-7 biennial shoots are left; The main pruning is carried out in the spring.

Climbers are hybrids of ramblers with other varieties of roses. The plants are distinguished by thicker shoots and large flowers.

Climbers are repeat-blooming roses and tolerate pruning well. It is better to tie up young specimens so that they have time to grow shoots. And a few years after planting, faded climbers are pruned. In this case, the shoots are cut by a third, sometimes by a quarter, removing only the very top. If there are old shoots, then only one, the oldest one, is completely removed.

Polyantha roses are compact and highly branched shrubs with paniculate inflorescences.

They bloom until late autumn, so they are usually pruned in the spring, shortening strong shoots by one third, as shown in the diagram. But if there are damaged and diseased branches, it is better to get rid of them right now! Also remove thickening shoots from the center to enhance the flowering of the bush. In total, after pruning there should be 7-8 strong main branches left.

Rose seedlings in containers and open ground do not need pruning.

Now you know how to properly prune your favorite roses. Only regular care will allow the plants to show themselves in all their glory, so quickly pick up the pruning shears and get to work!

In the summer, roses can and should be pruned. If they are pruned to shape and improve the health of the bush, this is a sanitary procedure. But pruning rose bushes in the summer after flowering is another matter.

About caring for roses after flowering in summer

After the first abundant flowering of a rose in the summer season, it requires special care. It helps subsequently release new shoots again, on which buds will appear. The flower may bloom again in the fall.

How to prune roses after flowering in the summer so that they bloom again? After the buds have faded, faded flowers are removed, and stems that are too long are shortened to give the bush a harmonious shape.

Note! There are non-repairing roses that bloom only once a season, so pruning them will not produce new buds.

Also in the summer, weeding in flower beds with rose bushes, mulching the soil, watering and fertilizing are mandatory. If necessary, bushes are sprayed with fungicides to protect against insects and diseases.

With regular mulching of the soil, weeds practically do not appear. To feed the bushes, potassium fertilizers are scattered next to them. You can purchase ready-made ones or use chicken manure.

If the weather is dry and there has been no precipitation for a long time, the rose bushes should be watered frequently. After watering, the soil is mulched. This will prevent the rapid evaporation of moisture from the soil. Tree bark, wood chips or other organic materials are used as mulch. The mulch is laid out in a layer of 10 cm. The area near the bush with a diameter of 10 cm is not covered.

Rose pruning

Why are roses pruned?

Depending on the height of the rose bushes, the variety of the group to which they belong, and the season, different pruning methods are used.

The first spring removal of branches from rose bushes is carried out to shape the appearance of the bush, to remove excess shoots that interfere with the normal growth of other stems, as well as to remove damaged ones. This is primarily for decorative purposes.

Pruning in autumn prepares the bush for entering winter, which contributes to:

accelerating the process of formation of new stems;
enhancing the development of the root system;
the plant receives more nutrients;
reducing the possibility of infectious infections.

Note! Proper pruning of the stems of rose bushes is the key to the appearance of renewed shoots and the formation of new buds. Without having certain knowledge on how to carry out such a procedure, you can cause irreparable harm to the plant.

Do I need to cut off faded buds on roses? Such removal is carried out primarily in order to preserve the attractive appearance of the bush, and also contributes to the continuation of flowering. After this, the rose directs its strength to the process of throwing out new shoots with buds. This procedure is carried out until the plant begins to prepare for winter and the branches harden.

How to prune faded rose buds to bloom again

Pruning roses in July after flowering is carried out by removing the buds along with the branch. Moreover, you should pay attention to the growth point - near the place where the cutting connects to the leaf. Subsequently, a shoot begins to grow from it again, on which a new bud will be formed. You need to take into account the age of the bushes. Shoots of annual plants are cut off by about half.

Important! The branch should be cut only above the growing point.

Next year, each pruned branch will produce 2-3 shoots. Biennials are shortened by 2-3 eyes from the beginning of the base, and annuals are shortened directly above the upper bud, located under the faded bud.

In adult plants (over 3 years of age), all dead and weak branches, as well as small shoots formed after pruning in the previous year, are completely removed.

If you have to prune a large number of bushes, then it is not necessary to carefully determine the location of the cut. It is enough to remove a branch at a distance of about 5-8 mm above the selected leaf, since the growth points are almost next to the leaves.

Pruning allows you to enjoy your roses longer during the blooming season. If faded roses are not pruned, rose hips and seeds begin to form from them.

Many people believe that the process of cutting a branch should definitely be carried out at an angle of 45°, since with a perpendicular cut the plant may develop a fungal infection due to moisture accumulating in this place, and with an inclined cut the water will roll off faster.

Note! To protect injured areas from possible damage, they can be treated with PVA glue.

You should not pick off a wilted bud by pinching the stalk. After the procedure carried out in this way, a weakened shoot will appear.

Pruning roses with large buds has some differences from that of bushes of other varieties. In them, the stem on which the flower formed is cut to a certain place, and in multi-flowered bush roses and tea roses, after they have flowered, the entire part of the branch above the first leaf is completely removed. This procedure is carried out in the same way for ground cover varieties.

Important! After the second flowering of the rose in the autumn, pruning is not advisable. It is better if the plant is at rest and can prepare for winter.

Pruning hybrid tea varieties

The branches of hybrid tea rose bushes are pruned in such a way as to form a ball shape. Since the buds form on shoots formed this year, most of them are removed. The following procedure schemes are used for such varieties:

on one- and two-year-old bushes, 2-4 buds are left, retreating 15 cm from the soil level,
for adults - 4-6 buds at a distance of approximately 20 cm, and about 2-4 buds are left on the side shoots.

Pruning indoor roses

Some people believe that an indoor rose no longer produces buds after flowering, but this is not true. With proper care they will appear again.

Branches are pruned in early spring. The second time the procedure is carried out after complete flowering, while 3 live buds are left on the branches. Also, from a rose in a pot, shoots growing inside the bush and those with faded buds are removed.

Pruning scheme for climbing varieties

Buds in climbing plants form only on last year's shoots. After flowering, old branches are cut off only if there are new shoots.

The formation of climbing bushes is carried out in a horizontal direction. Flowers and young branches appear along such branches in summer. Pruning after flowering is carried out in late summer - early autumn. Old lashes are cut off, leaving 30-40 cm from the base.

Rose pruning diagram

Further care

Like other plants, it needs timely watering. The ideal option is to install an automatic irrigation system. Experts set it up in such a way that water flows under each bush periodically and in doses. This makes caring for the flower garden much easier. But since this often cannot be done, you have to water it manually. It is advisable to moisten only the soil under the bush, and not the entire plant. In this case, for one bush it is enough to add 5-15 liters of water.

Important! Water for irrigation must be preheated under the sun's rays. Watering is carried out from 1 to 3 times a week. Their number is determined by the condition of the soil in the flower beds.

Watering is carried out in the evening or early in the morning. Do not water during midday heat. This can negatively affect the development of the plant: burns may form on tender leaves.

To ensure abundant flowering, do not forget about fertilizers. Use granular fertilizers. They are simply scattered near the plant. This is done 3-4 times a season. You can also use soluble fertilizers. They are first dipped into water and then poured into the ground next to the bush.

If you follow all the rules for summer pruning of roses, their abundant and lush flowering is stimulated. And regular care and getting rid of excess shoots will help protect them from insect pests and diseases.

Indoor roses are so popular that they have begun to be perceived as a kind of seasonal decoration or holiday accent. Many gardeners simply throw away the rose after flowering, although even in a potted format it remains a full-fledged shrub and can delight us for many years. In addition to a cool winter, roses only need proper care to bloom again. The key factor is proper pruning, which is almost no different from pruning garden princesses.

Indoor roses cannot be called difficult plants to grow. You just need to carefully select temperature conditions for them and take a responsible approach to their care. If you surround roses with care, they will bloom tirelessly and almost constantly.

For indoor roses, watering, fertilizing, access to fresh air, and frequent inspections are important. But if all other points of basic care are “responsible” for the health and strength of plants, then one of the procedures is the key to its abundant and continuous flowering.

Pruning is the main secret to the luxurious flowering of potted roses. In this regard, miniature copies of garden beauties (which are indoor roses) are no different from any other varietal roses.

For indoor roses, three types of pruning are necessary:

Regular, annual pruning for formation and flowering.
Regulatory pruning to deal with shoots that are weak or stray from the contours.
Seasonal pruning, which boils down to removing wilting parts of the plant.

Without exception, all indoor roses, regardless of their origin and class, tolerate even the most severe pruning and allow shaping. Both miniature, floribunda, and Chinese varieties are pruned according to general rules.

When pruning indoor roses, it is very important to comply with all sanitary and hygienic standards:

use only sharp tools, and best of all, special pruning shears for pruning shrubs;
make sure the tools are clean and treat work surfaces with disinfectants;
Treat all cuts immediately with protective equipment.

Whatever pruning we are talking about on roses, even in indoor format, cuts must be done correctly, carefully checking the location of the buds. For indoor roses, pruning is carried out only above the buds, as close as possible, but still leaving a part of the trunk about 0.5 cm long to eliminate the risk of damage to the bud itself. Damaged shoots are cut back to healthy tissue. The cut is made only at an angle, away from the bud.

Basic pruning of indoor roses

Indoor roses are pruned to stimulate bush thickening and flowering as abundantly as possible according to the same principles and rules as any other cultivated bush roses, including garden ones. Cutting back all old shoots to stimulate new growth is the main task. Without pruning, it is impossible to stimulate the growth of strong, healthy and high-quality young shoots: indoor queens bloom on the current year's shoots, and without pruning, flowering will be very poor.

Basic pruning of indoor beauties is carried out after a period of dormancy and before the start of active growth. Typically, roses are pruned in February or early March. But it is best to focus on a much more obvious sign - swelling of the kidneys. They should not wake up and begin to develop, but only “buck up” so that future growth points can be easily recognized. The duration of daylight at the time of pruning should already exceed 10 hours.

For indoor roses, both late and early pruning are equally dangerous:

if you prune ahead of schedule, during short daylight hours, then new shoots will develop too weakly, and both foliage and flowering will suffer;
if pruning is done late, when growth has already begun to develop from the buds, then as a result of a drastic pruning, growth will stop, the plant will spend energy on adaptation, and all development before pruning will be “wasted” and will deplete the plant.

The main pruning begins not with general regulatory pruning, but with mandatory sanitary cleaning. This procedure is typical for all shrubs in both garden and indoor culture:

First of all, remove all damaged, dry shoots. Pruning is carried out to healthy tissue. If there is no point in preserving the remaining part of the shoot (for example, if there are no buds on it), then cut it to the ground.
All weak, elongated, thinned shoots are cut to the base.
The bushes are carefully examined and the branches that thicken the crown and grow inside the bushes are cut out to the base. During pruning you also need to remove:
- severely twisted shoots;
- branches without an upper central bud (plug);
- one of any intersecting shoots and extra branches growing from one bud.

If pruning was carried out after flowering, then before the main pruning, they simply cut out previously missed or new problem areas and carry out control.

The most reliable rule that allows you to always prune a rose correctly is to cut off all shoots by half their length. If you do not have experience in growing roses indoors or you are afraid of pruning, then use this particular pruning principle. This is the most reliable option for pruning indoor roses.

If pruning does not scare you, and you can easily navigate the plant itself, you can “count” the buds well and adjust the pruning individually on each bush, then it is better to use a less universal, but also more productive strategy. All shoots of indoor roses are shortened, leaving at least 3 high-quality buds on them (the optimal number is 4-5 buds). The degree of pruning is determined depending on the desired compactness and shape of the bush, the condition of the plant, the thickness and height of the shoots. Small-flowered roses like lower pruning than large-flowered roses; weak-growing shoots are pruned into three buds, and up to 5-6 buds can be left on powerful ones. On any bush it is necessary to leave 4-5 skeletal strong shoots (they are usually shortened to 3-5 buds, leaving a base 10-15 cm high).

The formation of the rose can be done as desired. When pruning roses, you can set a strict, almost topiary shape of a ball or cone, you can limit the height or make the bushes “flat”. Different types of roses are more “inclined” to their particular shape. Thus, floribundas and Chinese (Bengal) indoor roses are formed at will; miniature roses are often grown in a spherical, conical or elliptical shape. If the rose was bought with a certain bush shape, then with regular pruning it is supported and the shoots that escape are shortened. If you want to give a room rose a new shape, then it is better to carry out the formation gradually and spread it out over several years, cutting off only part of the shoots each year and giving the plant time for high-quality thickening of the crown and restoration.

In addition to basic pruning, roses should be monitored throughout the rest of the year. If some shoots grow unproductively, are too weak or thin, stretch out, stand “naked”, it is better to remove them immediately.

Care after main pruning

Roses that have undergone basic pruning should not be immediately exposed to the sun and heat. Before the leaves appear, it is better to keep trimmed indoor beauties in a room with a cool temperature of about 10-11 degrees and in diffused lighting. They can be moved to bright light and room temperatures only after the first leaves appear.

Watering after pruning for indoor roses should be very careful. Overmoistening at this stage poses a very big threat, and complete drying of the substrate may not allow the plant to produce full-fledged strong branches. Feeding is not resumed until the roses begin to actively develop. It is also worth paying attention to air humidity: high humidity in the first weeks after pruning increases the risk of the spread of diseases and damage to indoor roses by fungal infections.

Additional and seasonal procedures

Proper pruning for indoor roses starts at the flowering stage. Like garden beauties, fruiting of indoor roses negatively affects the duration of flowering and its characteristics. The bushes must be regularly inspected and fading flowers must be constantly removed from the plant. Such “cleaning” will not only prolong flowering, but will also give you the opportunity to admire immaculate bushes in pots, which are far from being decorated by the appearance of fading petals.

Basic seasonal procedures during flowering:

1. As soon as the flowers fade on the rose, all faded parts of the shoots are shortened to the first full leaf (cinquefoil) or to the first full bud looking outward. Pruning above the bud is carried out according to the same rules as the main pruning on indoor roses.

2. If you want to achieve constant flowering from a rose, you can, after the flower has fully opened, cut the stem to the fifth bud, thereby stimulating the growth of new shoots and buds. Each new shoot during the entire growing period is shortened in the same way as during the main pruning. This option is labor-intensive and does not always bring the desired result; in conditions of shortening daylight hours, the rose will still stop flowering, so it is better to simply remove faded inflorescences in the usual way and not combine pruning and flowering.

3. As part of additional measures, do not forget to remove dry or damaged parts. It is also better to trim dry or beginning to dry out leaves or twigs without waiting for spring sanitary cleaning.

It is better to supplement the last trimmings of faded inflorescences with sanitary cleaning - removing damaged, weak, dry, unproductive or thickening shoots. By thinning and leaving only strong, healthy branches for the winter, they reduce the risk of the spread of diseases and pests. It is not necessary to carry out sanitary pruning after flowering; it can be combined with the main one. And in this matter it is better to focus on your preferences and capabilities.