How to prune a pear tree in spring. What is the correct way to prune a pear in spring and autumn? Pruning an old pear

Some gardeners are perplexed: why waste time pruning pear trees? The tree bears fruit regularly, but it is a pity to remove excess branches. If you suddenly have too much, the tree will completely stop bearing fruit and become weaker. But regular pruning is simply necessary for the tree. Without her cultivated plant will not be able to produce a good harvest. It is this operation that stimulates the growth of fruits and allows sunlight to pass through the crown. But these actions should be carried out competently.

But the pear requires crown formation. The tree has high growth energy. And the gardener should make life easier for himself: limit the size of the tree, thin out its crown for ease of care and harvesting of fruits. Summer residents are wondering: is it always necessary to trim the lower branches of a tree? This operation is carried out to remove old branches or to facilitate maintenance: it should be convenient to move under the tree while weeding or fertilizing.

How do pear trees react to pruning?

The tree will respond to properly pruned trees with an increase in fruit branches and fruit size. If you shorten the crown, the plant will redirect energy to the formation of side shoots, that is, it will begin to grow in width. This plant is easy to care for.

Removing shoots that thicken the crown will allow even illumination of ripening fruits. Their taste will improve (the sugar content will increase).

Improper pruning will weaken the plant. The tree will strive to restore the too sparse crown and will stop forming fruit buds.

The exception is anti-aging pruning. During this process, the pear tree is severely pruned and put into a state of stress. On him mature plant responds with abundant fruiting. But sometimes this event causes the death of a tree.

Required Tools

In order to quickly and efficiently perform pruning, you should prepare the tools. You will need:

• pruning shears for thin branches (up to 0.7 mm in diameter);
• hacksaw for removing large shoots;
• lopper for working in hard-to-reach places;
• disinfectant solution (potassium permanganate, boric acid, alcohol) for processing instruments;
• garden varnish or oil paint (for processing sections with a diameter of more than 0.7 mm);
• sharp knife (for cleaning cuts to avoid the formation of stumps);
• stepladder (for working with tall trees);
• work gloves.

It is important to remember: during pruning, infection penetrates through wounds, so tools should be disinfected.

When is the best time to prune tree shoots and branches?

There are no clear deadlines for pruning. Sanitation is carried out at any time. After strong winds, be sure to remove damaged shoots. For formative pruning, it is necessary to choose a time when sap flow has stopped. This is late autumn, winter, early spring.

Spring and summer work

In early spring, it is recommended to cut out the tops, which take away the strength of the pear. Before sap flow begins, a crown can be formed. If the branches grow upward, then a little treatment is carried out in the summer. During ripening and fruiting, branches that shade the pears can be removed.

Autumn pruning of pear

In autumn, the fruits have already been collected, the leaves have fallen, and the sap flow has stopped. It is recommended to carry out crown formation combined with sanitary pruning (if necessary). It is important to remember: work is carried out in dry weather, since during rain the wounds can get infected.

Carrying out work in winter

Some gardeners prefer to pinch pear crowns in winter. This is due to the availability of free time and the absence of bacterial infections.

But it should be understood that removing frozen wood is dangerous for the tree. And the garden varnish is applied to the cut while it is heated, and the temperature contrast is undesirable. Winter work with pear crowns is carried out at an air temperature of at least -5 degrees Celsius. And there should be no precipitation at this time.

Pruning a young pear

The purpose of the operation is to create a skeleton, which the gardener will subsequently work with. For beginning gardeners, it is important to do it correctly, since it will be quite difficult to correct mistakes.

For the first year

When planting, the pear seedling should be “treated” with pruning shears. The top needs to be trimmed by 1/4. This will stimulate the growth of side shoots.

The first pruning involves removing branches adjacent to the top “into a ring.” The lower branches should be left at a height of 50-60 cm from the soil level, the rest should be cut out. It is necessary to maintain a distance of 10-15 cm between branches in different directions.

During the growth process, the pear forms a regular skeleton that is convenient to work with.

In the second year

In the second year, the formation of a tiered crown begins. The formation of the 1st tier of the crown of a two-year-old pear continues according to the same principles:

• shoots adjacent to the top are cut out;
• the top is cut by 1/3;
• the lateral processes of the skeletal branches are shortened;
• all shoots growing inside the crown are removed;
• Crossing branches are cut out.

A two-year-old pear is thus prepared for the formation of fruit buds. When planting a tree in shaded areas or limited space in the garden, you can form a palmette: a flat crown. Then the distance between planting pear trees can be reduced by 2 times. And the plants will be illuminated perfectly.

Pruning a three-year-old pear

Immediately after planting in the first 3 years, a layered crown is formed. But only in the 3rd year can the 2nd tier be laid. It is formed at a distance of 50-60 cm from the skeletal branches of the 1st tier. The principles of creation are the same as those of the 1st tier.

Pruning a four-year-old pear

During this period, the gardener finishes forming the 3rd tier of the crown. The skeletal branches of the third tier are separated from the branches of the second tier by 50-60 cm. The shoots adjacent to the top are cut out. Shoots that cross and thicken the crown are removed or shortened.

Rejuvenating pruning of an old pear

Old pears stop producing bountiful harvest. But the gardener is not ready to part with them. Fruiting can be restored if the tree is rejuvenated. Trimming scheme:

• shorten the top;
• remove old, diseased branches;
• thin out the crown;
• remove competing shoots;
• shorten branching shoots.

This is a fairly harsh remedy. But in some cases, the pear begins to bear fruit abundantly.

How to correctly form the crown of a columnar pear?

This pear requires regular pruning to maintain its special crown shape. The correct operation is to prevent an excessive number of fruit buds: in the first year, all flowering shoots are removed, in the second, 2-3 are left.

The branches of a columnar tree are shortened to prevent them from growing wider. Those that grow under obtuse angle to the trunk, cut out. The purpose of the event: maintaining the shape of the crown. Special attention given to the central conductor. The upper bud is regularly inspected to determine whether it has been damaged by pests or disease. When a lesion is established, the shoot is cut out and a new conductor is formed from replacement shoots.

Peculiarities of pear pruning in various regions, including Siberia

Pruning rules vary slightly by region. Before carrying out the operation, you should take into account the winter hardiness of the pear. If the tree is prone to freezing, then autumn or winter formative pruning should not be carried out. In Siberia the climate is cold, with strong winds. And the warm period is short. Not all pear shoots ripen, which means they will certainly freeze in winter. This will weaken the plant. Immature (light green) shoots must be cut out or shortened to mature wood.

In a region with cold winters, like in Siberia, it is not recommended to perform autumn and winter operations to form the crown, so as not to reduce the winter hardiness of the pear. But sanitary pruning can be carried out at any time of the year. You should also refrain from anti-aging pruning. Its principle: put an old tree under stress in order to force it to bear fruit. But for a long time cold winter the pear is unlikely to survive an unfavorable period.

In regions with a warm climate, pruning is done at any time convenient for the gardener (taking into account the timing of sap flow and fruiting).

Common Mistakes

Illiterate pruning of a pear can not only delay fruiting for an indefinite period of time, but also destroy the tree. The most common mistakes gardeners:

• leave the top unpruned (the tree grows tall and is difficult to care for, including pruning);
• violate the rules for cutting shoots “into a ring” (a knot forms, then a hollow, the pear needs treatment);
• the operation is performed in the rain (infection penetrates into the wounds and diseases develop);
• they work with dirty tools (gardeners themselves infect their favorite trees);
• violate the principles of the formation of tiers (this leads to thickening of the crown and a decrease in yield);
• large cuts are left untreated (the tree cannot quickly heal them and remains open to infection);
• impose too much thick layer garden pitch (under this film the wood begins to warm up).

Any of the above violations leads to weakening or disease of the tree. This affects the harvest.

An important element in plant care.

This process must be carried out carefully so as not to harm the tree, so it is necessary to take into account all the nuances of spring pear pruning.

Why is spring pruning necessary?

Doubts about whether it is necessary to prune a pear quite often overcome novice gardeners. But this procedure must be carried out to ensure the plant’s healthy existence and active growth of shoots. By pruning pears, you can increase the yield of the tree, as well as the quality of the fruit.

Important! When pruning the branches of a young pear, it is necessary to immediately begin the formation of the crown, which will contribute to better absorption sunlight leaves of the tree and will speed up the photosynthesis of the plant.

Also pruning pears in spring correct scheme will help the plant in the formation of a strong trunk and branches so that they can withstand the load of big harvest. It will be able to provide the plant with a normal distribution of nutrients, the necessary space for processing and convenient harvesting.

Optimal timing for spring pruning

Pear pruning must be done at a time when the air temperature does not drop below -8°C, from March to May. At this time, the tree is still in the dormant stage and the juices are not distributed along the trunk, so the pear will bring the procedure without any undesirable consequences.

If you neglect the advice on the timing of the procedure and prune very early, when a strong drop in air temperature is possible, you can harm the plant or even cause its death.

Set of garden tools for work

In order to correctly carry out the procedure for pruning a tree, it is necessary to prepare special gardening Tools. For young plants that have thin, fragile branches, you will need pruning shears and pruning shears.

In order to cope with older trees, you cannot do without a saw and a lopper. It is important not only to choose correctly, but also to maintain their cleanliness. Store garden supplies in a clean and dry place. Also make sure that they are well sharpened and do not harm the plant during manipulations.

Did you know? Very durable pear wood is widely used for making musical instruments and furniture, as well kitchen utensils, which can be washed in the dishwasher and nothing will happen to them.

Differences in pruning old and young trees

Depending on the age of the pear, pruning has its own characteristics that must be taken into account during the procedure in order to ensure normal development and fruiting of the plant.

Pruning young

Let's look at how to prune a young pear in the spring. Pruning manipulations are carried out the next year after planting, when the seedling has completely taken root and become stronger. The further formation of the tree crown depends on the first pruning.

If you do the whole procedure correctly, then in subsequent years it will be easier to care for the pear, since a correctly formed crown will only require pruning last year’s shoots and the formation of skeletal branches of the crown.

Spring procedures contribute to an increase in branching, and semi-skeletal branches are formed, which affect the formation of fruit branches; for this, the shoots are shortened by 1/4 of the length.

Also pay attention to the tops that often form on young trees. The tops that thicken the crown can very quickly grow into full-fledged large branches, so you should not hesitate to trim them. The gardener must turn them into overgrowing and semi-skeletal branches.

Fruiting pruning

Let's consider detailed description, how to prune a fruit-bearing pear in the spring so that novice gardeners can perform this procedure correctly and protect them from unnecessary, thoughtless steps.

The first tier of the crown must be formed before the pear enters the fruiting period. Approximately in the fifth year, the tree must be prepared for the formation of the second tier of the crown. By the age of six years, the crown thickens and the fruiting area shifts to the periphery.

To prevent this process, it is necessary to lighten the crown. It is necessary to leave conductor branches that extend from the trunk at an angle of up to 90°, and cut out competitors at the base of the branches. On the selected conductor, it is necessary to select skeletal branches, which are collected in groups by height and trimmed, forming two or even three tiers of the crown.

The height between the first and second tier should be at least 60 cm, and the height between the second and third tier should be at least 30 cm. Next, you need to start shortening and thinning out individual branches in accordance with the height of each tier.

Did you know?Each leaf on a pear tree grows at one angle - 135° , which provides foliage maximum amount moisture and light.

Let's look at how to prune a pear if the branches grow upward and extend from the trunk almost parallel. In this case, first, formative pruning of the conductors is performed; if these branches are healthy, do not thicken the crown of the tree and do not intertwine, then there is no need to remove them completely; you can simply shorten them in accordance with the tier to which they belong.

It is also necessary to remove all branches that grow inside the crown, thicken it or intertwine with each other. It is also important to take care of shortening the growth of skeletal branches, cutting them off by ¼ of the entire length.

Trimming old

Pruning of old trees is done to rejuvenate the plant, to stimulate fruiting and to give the tree a shape for convenient harvesting of fruits. It is very important at this stage to carry out the manipulation correctly, because old trees may not survive a poorly performed procedure.

Pear is great fruit plant, which every year will delight you with delicious and useful fruits. The pear pruning scheme in spring is the key to good and regular harvests. This tree is valued not only for its excellent taste, but also for the presence of vitamins and dietary properties. Pear fruits will improve digestion and improve kidney function. But for the tree to give good harvest, you need to take good care of it.

Why is it best to prune in the spring?

Summer residents do not recommend pruning pear branches in the fall, as the tree may freeze in winter. The pruning scheme for pear trees in spring involves getting rid of dry and damaged branches. It is worth starting pruning when the snow has melted and the thermometer is about five degrees above zero. It is very important to have time to do the pruning before the buds begin to bloom on the tree. This will make the crown more compact and the fruits will receive more sunlight.

Do not prune pear trees in summer. So you'll ruin everything life cycles tree, and it will receive less nutrients. Correct in spring- this is the key to a strong crown and large yields.

Pruning rules

To begin, shorten the main central branch - the trunk - by one-fourth of its entire length. Form a ring from adjacent branches, cutting them at unequal distances. Leave four to five side branches. They will be the basis of the crown. Bend all other branches and tie them to the trunk with a rope.

Pruning a pear in the spring of 3 years involves normalizing the branches of the second order. Cut them back so that they do not cover the new central shoots. If you notice that new branches have appeared that grow inside the crown, then get rid of them, as they will interfere with penetration sun rays.

Set of tools

To successfully trim pear branches, you will need special gardening tools. With their help you will carry out everything quickly and easily gardening work. To trim young trees, you should buy pruning shears and with their help you can easily deal with young and thin shoots. But to trim mature trees, you can’t do without a lopper and a saw.

Make sure your tools are in good working order and keep them clean. The blades must be sharp, otherwise you will not be able to trim the branches accurately. This not only looks unsightly, but also harms the tree itself.

A few nuances of proper pruning

Wait for suitable weather. Do not prune in minus temperature. Every year you will spend less and less time on this procedure. This is due to the fact that young shoots grow more and more slowly. Every three to four years, rejuvenating pruning is carried out from the inside of the crown.

All work should be carried out very carefully, as the pear takes a long time to restore its strength. If you do cut down a branch, don’t just leave it like that. Carefully lubricate the sawn area with special paint.

How to prune a mature tree

The pattern for pruning a pear in spring is slightly different for an adult and a young tree. When forming the crown, do not be afraid to cut off excess branches. This will allow your tree to breathe and your fruits to receive enough sunlight. Now trim the young branches growing parallel to the central trunk. You can cut each shoot by one third. This will help new branches grow and develop faster. Proper pruning of the pear (you can see the photo in the article) will help speed up the fruiting process.

Types of pruning

The pear tree needs different types trimmings. Observing the right technologies, you will have healthy plants and large harvests of delicious fruits. There are several that will keep your tree in good shape:

1. Formative pruning. With its help you will correctly form young tree and prepare it for further fruiting.
2. Control pruning. Consists of removing all dry branches. This type of pruning is very important, as it directs all the tree’s forces to active growth.
3. Maintenance pruning. Capable of supporting the pear excellent condition. During this process, large branches are cut off. This is done so that the plant is not overloaded with fruits.

How to prune an old pear tree

The pear pruning scheme in spring also applies to old trees. If you don’t have the opportunity to plant a young garden, and it’s a shame to get rid of old trees, then just prune them correctly. And then they will delight you even more long years. However, this procedure is not easy. Prepare tools such as a ladder, rope and saw in advance, and preferably find an assistant.

Trim the top branches first. At the same time, young shoots should not be pitied. Don't be afraid to overdo it. An old tree can be cut in half. Don't worry. You won’t spoil the tree, but you will get large and tasty fruits.

Proper pruning of a pear in the spring (the diagram is the key to success) also includes pruning the lower branches. You can leave up to seven skeletal branches below. Try to leave a distance of about one meter between each tier. If this is not possible, then partially cut off the middle branches. Leave those that are at right angles to the post. Thin out the crown thoroughly. Rid the old pear tree of shoots growing inward.

Secrets of productivity

A pear is a plant that takes a long time to form. Fruiting can occur only after ten years. But to speed up this process, you need to carry out regular pruning. With its help, you will get a harvest several years earlier.

Thanks to pruning, the supply of oxygen and sunlight is increased, and the tree also puts all its energy into the fruits, and not into the growth of new shoots. To do this, regularly pin the germination points on young shoots. Thanks to this procedure, flower buds are formed much earlier.

If you want your pear to constantly delight you with huge harvests, take care of it. Don’t forget to water it, feed it, and, of course, prune it.

In order to reap a good harvest from pear trees, it is not enough to plant a tree, the main thing is to care for it properly. In this article we will outline the answers to the following questions: “Why is pear pruning so important?”, “What time of year and how best to prune?”

Trimming - necessary procedure, which contributes to the achievement of the following goals:

1. Increased productivity.
2. Formation correct form crowns
3. Improving access of sunlight to the crown.
4. Rapid tree growth and accelerated fruiting.
5. Extending the life of pear trees.
6. Convenient and fast harvesting.
7. Elimination of shading of other garden trees by pear trees.

When is the best time to prune?

Pruning at different times of the year has its own tasks, so each pruning is important in its own way. In autumn, pruning is done for sanitary cleaning of the crown, and pruning in summer or spring to stimulate flowering and for correct formation crowns The very first pruning of pear trees, which are formed according to the five-leg system, should be carried out in the spring before the buds swell.

Pruning in spring

Pruning pear trees at any time of the year is carried out using sharp pruning shears with a narrow blade. Also, the following tools can be used: lopper, hand or electric scissors (the handle can be long or short), garden knife, garden saw.

Spring pruning of a pear (maintenance) guarantees a bountiful harvest by autumn, because it stimulates growth, unlike summer pruning, therefore experienced gardener will not miss pruning in the spring. The exact date It’s very difficult to say when you need to prune a pear, so rely on the outside temperature. If the temperature rises above plus five degrees and no longer freezes at night, then you can safely start pruning.

The approximate period is from the beginning of March to the end of April. Southern regions They can prune throughout the winter, because there is no risk of the pruned branches freezing.

Spring pruning is needed for:

• crown lightening;
• reducing tree height;
• cutting off all lateral growths on the upper bud (flower);
• thinning overgrown branches.

IN spring period Thin, fragile branches are pruned, which can easily break due to the weight of ripened fruits. The second method involves removing absolutely all branches to the base that are growing incorrectly, that is, not growing horizontally to the ground.

In the spring, the crown of the tree should be thinned out to allow sunlight to enter and heat the branches that will bear fruit and the trunk. To stop the growth of a pear tree, it is worth shortening the trunk by one fourth. Each cut should be treated with special means.

Summer pruning

Summer tree pruning can be done with bare hands. You should start already at the beginning of June from the moment the ovaries begin to form and continue every ten days throughout the entire growing season until harvest, because in the summer the branches do not stop growing.

The method of summer pruning is called pinching or pinching; it allows you to retard the growth of the pear, because the pear is a vigorously growing tree. The essence of the method is to pinch off unnecessary young shoots at the top using nails. This will remove the entire top, including the already hardened area. This method will not allow young shoots to continue growing in length, that is, it prevents the growth of unnecessary branches.

If you regularly prune trees in summer, you can save your energy during autumn and spring pruning. Most of the branches will be easily removed, because the branch does not have time to gain strength. Also, proper summer pruning promotes the transformation of leaf buds into fruit buds, that is, it directs nutrients fruits

Pruning in autumn

Autumn pruning (sanitary) allows you to increase the yield for the next year and prepare pear trees for winter, so this procedure should begin at the end of August, the last chance to produce autumn pruning given in mid-September, but only after harvest.

Autumn pruning consists of the following steps:

1. Removing dried, diseased, damaged branches that can break off when frozen in winter and damage healthy shoots.
2. Branches growing at an angle of 90 degrees are removed.
3. Growing ones are exposed incorrectly partial removal. Those branches that will interfere with the growth of fruit-bearing branches are removed.
4. At complete removal There should be no hemp branches left; focus on the rings located at the very base of the branches.

Branches removed during autumn pruning must be burned. This is necessary so that other garden trees are not affected by pathogenic bacteria remaining on the cut branches.

Features of age-related pruning

By the end of the first season, pruning of the young pear tree should begin. If the tree was planted in the spring, then the top of the seedling is cut off at a height of 70 cm. This allows you to stimulate the growth of uterine branches towards the end of the season.

Next year, in the second spring, the branches (crown frame) should be shortened by half or 2/3 of the length (depending on growth). Trimming should be done on the outer bud, removing excess shoots.

In the second year, branches of the second order will develop. We also shorten the main branches by half or 2/3, but only those that are located to the trunk at the greatest angle of departure. There should be a central branch and about 3 side branches that grow at an angle of 45 degrees.

A pear tree older than one year should be pruned 2 times a year.

In the early spring of the third year, half-skeletal branches are pruned to the outer bud. That is, the formation of branches is carried out, which will then form the skeletal basis of the pear tree.

In the 4th year, in the spring, the conductors begin to be pruned, but there is often no central conductor, because pear trees have strong lateral branches.

If the branches grow upward, then they are subject to mandatory pruning, that is, shortening, in order to transfer them to fruiting, or they are twisted under lower bends. If they are moved to a horizontal position, then accelerated fruiting will be possible.

The old pear tree has very thick and strong branches that cannot be cut with ordinary pruning shears, so a garden saw is used to cut them. On old pear trees, rejuvenating pruning is carried out in the spring or at the end of winter, the main thing is to do it before the growing season begins.

This type of pruning is carried out only for trees whose age has exceeded ten years. Old pear trees are more resistant to low temperatures, but it is preferable to do pruning at temperatures above zero degrees.

A rejuvenating haircut is needed in the following cases:

• if the tree has grown very much because it did not receive proper care;
• if the tree still bears fruit, but the yield has decreased significantly and the quality of the fruit has deteriorated;
• There are many dry areas that are affected by insects and diseases.

Frozen and dried branches are also subject to mandatory removal. Branches that interfere with young healthy branches should also be removed after cutting down the conductor.

Pear trees not only give us a harvest of tasty, juicy, healthy fruits, but also decorate the garden with openwork blooms in the spring. But for the plant to be strong and healthy, you need to provide it with good care, an important part of which is correct pruning. Beginning gardeners often believe that pear trees only need to be pruned in the spring. This opinion is wrong; It turns out that pruning can be done at almost any period, it is only important to know the basic rules.

Why does pear need pruning?

Pear refers to garden crops in need of sunlight. It needs it for growth and fruiting, so pruning is needed, first of all, to thin out the crown. Regular removal of young shoots provides the tree with the opportunity to devote all its strength to already formed branches. That's it useful material are used to ensure fruit growth, which means the harvest will be larger and of better quality.

Proper pruning will rejuvenate the tree, shape the crown and increase productivity.

In my opinion, the point is not only that the pear should give as much juice as possible to the fruit. This tree grows very tall and spreading if not pruned. Not only will it shade neighboring plants, but it will also be extremely difficult to collect fruits, especially if you have to climb up. It is unlikely that there will be a good harvest on the beds planted nearby: dense branches spreading to the sides do not produce any vegetable crop no chance of getting enough sunlight. My neighbors didn’t prune their pear tree, it grew wide and high, shading the area and showering it at the end of summer big amount non-marketable fruits. True, in the spring the tree blooms simply luxuriously. In addition, it is good to relax under such a crown on a hot day.

In addition, the tree may need sanitary pruning, namely the removal of diseased, frozen over winter, dry and broken branches. Any damage to the branches can lead to plant disease over time, becoming a vulnerable point for bacteria, viruses and harmful insects.

Rules for pruning pears for each season

Each period has its own climatic features, and plant development in spring, summer and fall varies greatly. Therefore, when carrying out pruning in each season, you must strictly follow the rules.

Note! In winter, pruning is strictly not recommended. The cuts will not have time to heal; there is a high probability that the branches will die from frost, which will affect the health of the entire tree.

Spring pruning

After the end of severe frosts and before the start growing season(before the buds swell) you need to prune in spring. Work should begin when the temperature reaches 5 °C.

Spring pruning should be done before the buds begin to bloom.

Before you start work, remember the basic rules that must be followed so as not to harm the tree and get the most positive result from it.

1. To work, use pruning shears, first making sure that its blades are very sharp. It is better to cut large branches with a hacksaw. Before starting and after finishing pruning, be sure to disinfect tools with alcohol-containing products.
2. First of all, the crown is thinned out. This will ensure sufficient light and air access for the tree.
3. The next step is to shorten the central trunk. It is recommended to cut it by about ¼. Thanks to this, the tree will not grow and a cup-shaped crown will form.
4. All places where cuts were made must be lubricated with a protective substance as quickly as possible. This could be Rannet, oil paint, garden varnish or drying oil. It is also recommended to impregnate any damage on the surface of the wood with rannet.
5. Traditionally, pruning methods such as ring cutting and shortening branches are used. In the first case, the cut is made in the area where the branch grows from the trunk, at the very base, “under the ring.” To avoid tearing of the bark, first make a cut at the bottom, and then cut down the branch from the top side. The second method ensures the acceleration of the growth of side shoots and the awakening of the buds, which are located under the cuts.
6. Pear branches can grow in both horizontal and vertical directions. It is recommended to remove vertical shoots and provide horizontal support with support if necessary. In addition, it is imperative to cut off branches growing in a downward direction: their productivity is too low.
7. When pruning in the spring season, there is no need to feed the pear with nitrogen fertilizers: now it receives enough nutrition from the soil.

If spring pruning will be done correctly, by the next season all the cuts will have healed, the tree will be healthy and ready for harvest.

Video: rules for pruning pear trees in spring

Summer pruning

IN summer period Pruning for pear trees involves pinching or pinching. This is the name for removing shoots extending from the top of the plant. You can easily pinch with your fingernails, and if you need to remove most of the young branch, use pruning shears.

We spend much more time on pinching than on trimming. But this procedure, as experience has shown, actually has a very good effect on the plant: as a result, the nutrients coming from the soil are used sparingly and evenly. I think this is all because, thanks to pinching, the growth of the shoot is stopped, and it is achieved optimal length. At the same time, in the spring of next year we shorten the annual shoot, removing a significant part of it, the growth of which has consumed useful substances.

Pinching can be done in different terms throughout the summer, and depending on the time the plant may respond differently.

Pruning pears summer season can be done if the young shoots have thickened the crown too much

Pinching carried out in June, during the active growing season, will delay the growth of shoots. Thanks to this, premature summer shoots are formed from axillary buds faster, and weakened branches located nearby will become stronger and increase growth. Leaf buds will turn into fruit buds. But remember that pinching during this period can have a bad effect on the growing season of the tree and its wintering.

If you pinch at the end of July, when shoot growth ends, you can achieve improved ripening of shoots and better development of axillary buds.

Video: rules for pruning pear trees in summer

Autumn pruning

The optimal time for the last autumn pruning of the year lasts from the last ten days of August to mid-September. It is used on early and mid-ripening pear varieties.

1. It is recommended not to prune the plant too much: it will begin to spend a lot of energy to recover as quickly as possible, and may send out many shoots in a vertical direction. It is better to carry out the process in stages: remove some branches this fall, others next, etc.
2. Autumn pruning should be done before it gets cold and the temperature drops to 0 °C.

   Get your fall pruning done before temperatures drop below zero.

3. Start removing from those shoots that grow at right angles to the trunk. When you're done with them, trim the ones that run parallel to the trunk or in a vertical direction.
4. The circular flow of bark will serve as a guide for pruning. It is clearly visible between the base of the branch and the trunk. It is not advisable to make a cut below it or leave a stump above it. In order for the wood to heal quickly, cut the branch along the flow: it contains tissues that ensure rapid regeneration.

   This is what the annular influx looks like after the branch is cut to the base

5. If there are branches more than 3 cm thick that need to be cut down, do the following: cut from the bottom to approximately the middle, and then finish from the top. Otherwise, you can damage the bark under the cut branch, and the uncut part will simply break under its own weight.
6. Immediately after completing the procedure, lubricate the cuts with varnish or other means, as when pruning in the spring. Uncovered wounds begin to secrete sap, which attracts insect pests and carriers of diseases dangerous to the tree.
7. In this case, fertilizing during pruning is also not carried out.

Video: rules for pruning pear trees in autumn

Rules for forming the crown of a pear tree

If you have never grown pears before, you probably think that pruning old and young plant- the same process. This is a misconception; in fact, each age of the tree has its own pruning rules for crown formation and healthy branch development.

Pear pruning scheme

There are certain rules for pruning a plant from the moment of planting until the start of fruiting. These also include crown formation schemes. To prevent pruning from becoming stressful for the tree and causing its death, use the following materials and tools:

All tools must be sharpened and disinfected before use. In addition, you will need garden wax or oil paint to cover the cuts.

Pruning pear seedlings after planting

As soon as you plant a pear seedling, you need to do the first, main pruning, which has 2 goals at once:

In the autumn of the first year of growth, the tree will not require pruning, since it was carried out when planting in the spring. If you follow all the rules, at the first stage you will provide the pear good conditions for healthy crown growth and formation. You will only need to remove damaged shoots if necessary.

Pruning annual and young pears

A one-year-old seedling that was planted last year needs to trim the trunk by at least a quarter of the total length (25%). This will help the crownplants become more branched. The side shoots are also shortened, but they are cut to the first bud.

After another year of the tree’s life, the top of the trunk should be shortened by 25–30 cm, and all branches of the tree by 6–8 cm. In order for the crown to form correctly, the lower branches must remain longer than the upper ones. This pyramid-like crown shape is considered one of the best for pear fruiting.

After completing all these stages of pruning, follow the rules for caring for a pear plant. They are as follows:

Formation of tiers in a pear seedling

Within a year of planting, the pear tree had already taken root and fully adapted. At this time, you need to begin the process of crown formation, which lasts three seasons and consists of several stages.

There are 5 types of crown shapes for pears:

• sparsely tiered;
• improved longline;
• fusiform;
• cup-shaped;
• semi-flat.

The choice of shape will determine the pattern used to trim the branches.

Exist different opinions about which crown shape is better. For example, beginners in gardening are recommended sparsely tiered form- it is easier to implement, and allows you to subsequently correct some errors made during pruning. Gardeners with extensive experience, on the contrary, claim that the most practical are spindle-shaped and cup-shaped. The first one is great for small plot, in which the pears are close to each other, the second greatly facilitates the collection of fruits.

Sparsely tiered form

Despite its simplicity, the sparse-tiered crown scheme requires a careful approach. Let's look at it in more detail.

1. In order to form a crown according to this scheme, in the first year of growth, the pear seedling needs to be cut to a height of 80 cm. If the required length has not been achieved by the tree, there is no need to trim the top.
2. The second year is the period of formation of the trunk (trunk to the level of the lower branches). To do this, all branches below 50 cm from the soil level are cut off from the central conductor. It is necessary to leave the 3 strongest side branches extending from the trunk at an angle of 45°, and the central shoot. The remaining branches are cut off.
3. The side shoots are pruned so that their length does not exceed 50–60 cm. Subsequently, second-order branches will be formed on them above the lower tier. They should grow at a distance of 40–50 cm from the trunk. The branches left as skeletal (main ones extending from the trunk), which have not grown longer than 50 cm, are cut to a length of 35 cm. The central conductor should be 20–30 cm higher than the branches of the tier. If the conductor is weak, not exceeding the diameter of the skeletal branches in thickness, it should rise 40 cm above the cutting line of the branches.
4. In the third year, in the spring, you need to leave young shoots, the length of which is 25–40 cm (they will become fruit-bearing). If necessary, shorten skeletal branches to 50 cm. Branches with a diameter greater than the thickness of the conductor must be cut into a ring.
5. If in the third year of growth the height of the pear is 2.5–3 m, you need to limit the growth of the tree. This is done by transferring “to the side branch”: the conductor is cut at the selected height above the young side branch.

So, a pear tree, the crown of which is formed according to the principle of a sparse-tiered scheme, consists of:

The space between the tiers should be 50–60 cm. Leave branches spaced from the main conductor at an angle of 45-60° for the skeleton. Please note that they should not interfere with light access to each other. To ensure this, check the divergence angle between such branches: it should be at least 120°. It is recommended to leave semi-skeletal branches only at the lower level.

Video: how to form a sparsely tiered crown on a fruit tree

Improved tier layout

This method is similar to the previous one. The only difference is that you need to leave more skeletal branches. So in the lower tier there will be 4 skeletal branches, and in order to lay the second tier, you need to leave 5-6 buds. Over time, strong, healthy shoots will appear from them, half of which will become the frame of the tier. So the pear will have two levels 50–60 cm from each other with 6–8 frame branches.

1. The lower tier is 3–4 frame branches, the second tier is 2–3 frame branches, the third tier is missing, two single branches are left above the second tier.
2. Lower tier - 3–4 frame branches; the second tier - 2–3 frame branches, the third tier - 2 frame branches, 1–2 single branches are left above the third tier.

Spindle-shaped crown

The formation of a spindle-shaped crown is very popular among professional gardeners. Fruiting in trees with such a crown begins early, and the yield increases. This is due to good ventilation and illumination of the branches.

The peculiarity of the spindle-shaped pattern is in large quantities semi-skeletal branches. Using the garter method, they are given a horizontal position. The branches are placed spirally, with a distance of 2–4 shoot buds between them.

Experienced gardeners most often choose a spindle-shaped crown

This scheme has a drawback: the lower branches droop, making it difficult to care for the soil around the trunk and clean the trunk. To avoid these troubles, you need to leave branches up to 1.5 m long in the lower tier, growing at an angle of 50–60°. Those branches that grow higher should have a horizontal direction.

Video: rules for forming a spindle-shaped crown

Cup-shaped crown

This type of crown is also called vase-shaped. The scheme is classified as a leaderless formation, in which skeletal branches grow at the same level (tier) on a trunk 50 cm high.

In the first growing season, the central conductor is cut out. In this case, 3–4 frame branches remain, equidistant from each other. Each has 2 taps of the second level and 3-4 of the third level.

The cup-shaped crown is very convenient for harvesting

The cup-shaped crown is well illuminated by the sun from all sides, and it is also very convenient for harvesting. Disadvantages include the fragility of skeletal branches, which easily break under the weight of the fruit. But on the other hand, such trees are less susceptible to fungal diseases.

Semi-flat crown

This scheme is recommended for use on pears grafted onto medium-sized rootstocks. Also often a semi-flat crown is formed on small areas, where fruit trees are planted near fences and buildings due to lack of space.

Pears with a semi-flat crown - a good option for a small area

The semi-flat crown is characterized by the presence of 4–6 skeletal branches located relative to the trunk at an angle of 45–55°. The bottom row consists of two branches growing mirror to each other. Optimal distance there should be 20 cm between them. Above, several subsequent tiers are formed, each of which has 2 skeletal branches. For vigorous pear varieties, an inter-tier distance of 100 cm is considered optimal, for medium-sized ones - 70–80 cm.

Pruning a pear with a replacement branch

The limb replacement pruning method is usually used on grapes, but is also often used on fruit trees, including pears. Its purpose is to form a fruiting unit, consisting of one or more fruiting branches and a replacement knot itself. It should remain outside below the fruiting branch so that when pruned, the fruiting shoot elongates slowly.

Pruning a pear for replacement involves cutting off part of the shoots on which the flower buds are located, by a third or a quarter of the length for fruiting, and all the remaining shoots for growth, leaving 2–3 buds. As a result of this procedure, 2 shoots are formed from the remaining buds on short-cut branches. The first, in turn, is also pruned for fruiting, the second is also shortened for replacement. When a long branch stops bearing fruit, it is removed.

Proper pruning on replacement branches will help the formation of new fruit shoots

Replacement knots are located below those that were pruned for fruiting. This way the branches with fruits will not move to the outer part of the crown.

After reading a lot of information about knot replacement, I came to the conclusion that on fruit trees, especially pears, such pruning can be done no earlier than in the fourth year. At this time, the crown is, as a rule, already formed, and the tree will soon begin to bear fruit. But still, pruning a replacement knot is a troublesome task. It really applies to grapes: the vines are easier to handle. But with fruit trees, the crowns of which consist of many branches, you have to tinker. In our garden, we decided to no longer practice limb replacement pruning for pears: there are a lot of worries, but we haven’t noticed any special results. No better or worse than with other types of pruning. But maybe I should have worked with this method for a couple more years?

How to rejuvenate an old pear tree by pruning

In order for the plant to regain healthy growth and fruiting, it may require rejuvenating pruning. It must be remembered that for an old productive pear, improper pruning can be disastrous.

Such rejuvenating measures will be especially useful if you got a garden with penny trees from a previous owner who did not care for the plants. In this case, the pears may be tall and bushy, but not produce a good harvest. It is enough to shorten the tree by cutting off its top.

By pruning an old pear, you will rejuvenate the tree and return fruit to it.

Well-groomed old pears with a height suitable for harvesting should be rejuvenated, starting with thinning the crown. This is done at the end of winter or with the onset of the first spring warmth, before the buds swell. The optimal period is considered to be a period with an air temperature of about 0° C.

1. First, trim branches that show signs of disease and frost. You also need to remove broken and dried branches that will no longer bear fruit. This will help you correctly estimate the volume further work, and the crown will subsequently be better illuminated by the sun.
2. The next step is to remove excess shoots that grow parallel to the crown or under acute angle. Next, competing shoots that grow too close to healthy, fruit-bearing skeletal branches are pruned.
3. It is possible to shorten some of the remaining shoots by a quarter of the length if you see the need for this (for example, they are too long, which may make harvesting difficult).
4. Having completed all anti-aging pruning activities, treat all sections with garden varnish or oil paint, which holds better on wood at low temperatures.

Rejuvenation carried out according to the rules will save the old pear from being cut down. After this 1-2 years, the tree may not produce the expected yield, but over time you will get a good result.