How to properly install plastic gutters on the roof. How to fix a drain: step-by-step installation instructions. Prices for different types of pipe bends

Water from precipitation and melting snow must be drained both from the surface of the roof and from the entire building. Modern manufacturers offer a huge selection of products that satisfy the needs of any homeowner or developer. The presented systems are characterized by simple installation, are characterized by long-term trouble-free operation, have an excellent design and a variety of colors.

With initial knowledge and following the rules for installing a drainage system, even a novice craftsman can complete the work. The instructions available from all manufacturers are of great importance during installation.

Design features and types of roof drainage

A drain is a structure consisting of gutters and pipes. The diametric cross-section of its parts is selected in accordance with the volume of wastewater exerting pressure on the roof.

Special brackets and hooks are used to attach gutters to the building. The pipes are connected to the gutters using funnels, and the pipes are fixed to the walls of the house using clamps.

The drain consists of different elements that are selected in accordance with the exterior of the house:

• Corner elements are used to join the parts of the gutters in the corners of the building.
• Plugs and gutter connection elements.
• Using a pipe elbow, pipes are connected at a bend.
• Pipe ends add a finished look to the entire structure.

Shapes and sizes

Parts of the drainage system can be rectangular or round in shape. The parameters of the elements are determined by the area of ​​the roof, with the gutter width in most cases varying from 10 to 20 cm, and the pipe cross-section from 7.5 to 12 cm.

In most cases, plastic or metal gutters are produced. Galvanized iron is not used due to its poor resistance to water. Sometimes you can find copper, titanium or zinc gutters, but the cost of such structures is very high.

The type and layout of the drainage system is determined at the design stage of the house. The main condition is that the structure must uninterruptedly perform its assigned task and be an integral part of the overall exterior of the building.

When installing a drainage system yourself, you need to take several points into account:

• The amount of precipitation that falls during the year in a region.
• Materials used for the facade and roof, as well as their colors.
• Roof dimensions and type.
• Architectural features of the house.

Before installing roof gutters, be sure to read the instructions from the system manufacturer.

Location of the drainage system and tools used

Drain pipes are located depending on the size of the roof overhang. If this parameter is less than 10 meters, one drain is installed. If the overhang size exceeds 10 meters, then two drains are installed.

Assembling a drainage system with your own hands is carried out with the following tools:

• Tape measure, string and marker or pencil.
• Scissors for cutting metal.
• A device used to bend hooks.
• Level.
• Rivet pliers.
• Screwdriver or drill.
• Hammer and rubber mallet.

How to assemble gutters with your own hands - step-by-step guide

When answering the question of how to properly assemble a drainage system, it should be noted that installation work requires the sequential implementation of all actions.

1. At the first stage of work, hooks are installed. These elements can be short, long and adjustable. The hooks are attached to the bottom board of the sheathing, to or on the rafter leg. Each fastening is performed with a separate type of hook.
   
2. The angle of inclination of the hooks is calculated; ideally, this parameter is 3 mm per linear meter. The hooks need to be laid out side by side, numbered and the fold line marked. Using a device for bending hooks, bend along the mark.
   
   
3. When fixing the first hook, pay attention to the following: the outer side of the gutter should be located at a distance of no more than 2.5 cm from the visual continuation of the roof.
   
4. A gap of about 90 cm is maintained between the hooks, tilting the system by 3 mm for each linear meter of the roof. Installation of extreme hooks is carried out at a distance of 10-15 cm from the edge of the roof.
   
   
   When installing hooks on a rafter leg or sheathing batten, you should make a cut to align the surfaces of the element and the attachment points.
   
   
5. To insert the funnel into the gutter, you need to make cuts. To do this, make a mark with a pencil or marker and make a slot with a hacksaw. Use pliers to give the funnel the appropriate shape and remove burrs.
   
   
   The metal at the cut site must be treated with paint or a composition to protect against corrosion. The funnel must first be secured from the outside of the gutter, and then secured with a special clamp on the inside.
   
   
   Before installing gutters, you need to place a cap on the end of each gutter, pressing it with your hands or hammering it with a rubber mallet. The finished drain is laid by lightly pressing the gutter near each hook.
   
   It is very important that the constituent elements of the system are attached to the gutter before the final installation of the gutter system on the roof.
6. The gutters need to be connected to each other using connecting locks, so when installing, there must be a free gap of about 3 mm between the end ends. The sealing part is coated with sealant, drawing lines in the central and side parts. Then the back of the lock is attached to the inside of the gutter and the entire piece is pressed, moving towards the outside of the structure. The lock is snapped into place, secured with clamping parts.
   
   
7. Similar actions are performed during the installation of corner elements at the bend points of the drainage system. In both cases, the gap left acts as an expansion joint that prevents destruction or deformation of the drain.

   

8. The work is carried out according to the installation diagram of the drainage system. Pipe elements are attached to the walls using clamps spaced at 2-meter intervals, and they, in turn, are fixed with dowels.
   
   Drains should be fixed no closer than 4 cm to the wall. The pipes should be cut with a hacksaw, but remember not to make a cut from the narrower side.

Connection and fastening of drainage system pipes

When assembling a drainage system, it is sometimes necessary to connect two elbows. To do this, perform the following steps: determine the distance between them and add 10 cm. These additional centimeters ensure that the connecting element fits into the end ends of the knees, 5 cm on each side.

The given instructions on how to assemble a drainage system are a description of the main stages of the work. All installation details are indicated in the manufacturer's instructions, since each product has its own characteristics.

Gutter systems made of polyvinyl chloride are much lighter and more practical than outdated metal options. Plastic kits are much easier to work with. Despite the installation rules common to previous varieties, they do not require labor efforts commensurate in severity.

True, it is impossible to successfully install a roof drain with your own hands without taking into account the specific qualities of polymer products. Let's figure out what independent installers of PVC drainage systems should know and follow.

Gutters made from polyvinyl chloride elements are structurally not much different from metal predecessors and prototypes. Kits produced by industry include similar parts from which horizontal and vertical branches of systems are mounted. Assembly and installation are carried out in an equal number of steps and in a similar sequence.

However, in the manufacture and installation of drainage “constructors” from PVC, the specific properties of products with a polymer base are strictly taken into account. This is a characteristic dimensional instability that manifests itself when the temperature background changes. Plastic parts are capable of increasing in a linear direction when heated and returning to their previous geometric boundaries when cooled.

A drain designed for outdoor use will naturally be cooled in the winter and heated in the hot summer. Following temperature fluctuations, it will lengthen and then shorten. It is difficult and unnecessary to interfere with the linear movements inherent in polymers. You just have to adapt to them. Those. take into account the specified qualities when designing and assembling the system.

For the construction of PVC drainage circuits, special compensating and connecting parts are produced. They allow the main elements of the system to lengthen and shorten without deformation or damage for the number of cycles promised by the manufacturer. Their design takes into account the possibility of some movement and subsequent return to the original place.

In addition to the described feature, polymer products have another important quality that must be taken into account when attaching a PVC drain to the roof. This is a tendency to deform and sag in long sections that do not have supports.

To ensure that fairly flexible plastic gutters do not sag, the installation step of the holders under them cannot exceed 60 cm. Otherwise, the horizontal sections between the brackets will begin to sag under the weight of precipitation and from their own weight. Dirt will accumulate in the deflections and water will begin to stagnate, which in case of frost can simply tear the polymer gutter.

Stages of assembly and installation of a drainage system

The construction of a drain from PVC elements is carried out in a clear sequence. In general terms, the algorithm for constructing a drainage circuit includes the following types of work:

• Design. Drawing up a simple diagram with the selection of the optimal size of the system and calculation of the number of main parts required for the device and fastening components.
• Assembly and installation of the water intake part. It includes gutters and funnels that receive precipitation, collect it from the roof and direct it into the drainpipes.
• Assembly and installation of the plumbing part. Those. drainage risers that direct an organized flow to a specific section of the blind area or to a storm drain.

The drainage system is installed exclusively in a top-down manner. This means that first the installation of water intakes is carried out, then the installation and connection of drainage risers. Strict adherence to successive stages is dictated by the technological features of the system and the technical characteristics of the material used in its production.

Strict Design Rules

When developing a project for installing a drain, it is necessary to comply with technological requirements that ensure normal operation of the circuit and unimpeded drainage of atmospheric water. To do this, you should deal with the following questions in advance:

• Optimal drainage configuration. Gable roofs are traditionally equipped with two separate gutters and equipped with a continuous contour of gutters arranged around the perimeter. The construction of the latter will require corner connecting parts.
• Number of risers. Every 12 m of polymer gutter must be equipped with one riser. If the length of the gutter, usually based on the length of the cornice, is more than 12 m, you will need two risers with conventional water inlet funnels and a compensating funnel.
• Application of compensating funnels. They are used in several cases: a) when constructing gutters longer than 12 m, b) when there are technical obstacles to expansion, for example, closely spaced walls of neighboring buildings, c) when installing a closed drainage system around the perimeter of the roof.
• Selection of gutter holders. Long or short hook-shaped brackets are used for installation. The long ones are attached to the sheathing before laying the covering, the short ones are fixed on the front board at any time, including after the roofing is installed.
• Maintaining the slope of the gutters. Depending on the brand of the system, the slope recommended by the manufacturer is indicated from 2 to 5 mm, distributed per 1 linear m of the water intake gutter. The slope is formed towards the drainage funnel by installing brackets with a height offset.

It is extremely important to determine the location of the risers during the design process. They should not spoil the exterior composition. The best option is to install them in the corners of the building. However, it is quite possible to place it in a niche created by a bay window or in the middle of the wall, if it is more convenient to make a receiving point for storm drainage there.

If the discharge of atmospheric water is planned to the blind area, then you just need to try to remove the risers from nearby pedestrian paths, foundation ventilation vents, and entrances to basements.

For drainage system designers, solving the problem with the location of drainage risers will be somewhat more difficult. Their vertical drainage branches must be tied to the load-bearing post of the frame, but fastening to an ordinary one is also permissible. Craftsmen installing a system for a house with siding should do the same.

The required number of parts for the construction of a drainage system should be calculated individually. In private construction, they are now trying to move away from standard design, and at the same time from roofs that are similar in design. However, there is a calculation template that will give you an idea of ​​how the calculations are performed.

Using an extremely simple scheme, a drainage system is calculated for a gable roof with slopes up to 12 m long. Let's assume that this is the case in our case, then we will need:

1. Gutters. You need to buy them by the meter according to the lengths of the cornices. Nothing will interfere with the linear thermal expansion of the gutters, so the 2.5 mm allowed for expansion compensation at each edge can be ignored.
2. Gutter connectors. If we take into account that their length is 3 m, then for each line of 12 m you will need 3 connecting elements.
3. Two funnels. One for each gutter.
4. Brackets. The number of hooks is calculated by simply dividing the length of the cornice into equal segments, each of which is up to 60 cm. Before dividing, 5 cm are retreated from both edges of the cornice.
5. Additional brackets. For a funnel located near the corner of the house, you will need one additional holder, for a funnel in the center of the wall - two.
6. Four gutter plugs. A pair for each branch.
7. Two upper and lower bends each for the construction of a riser drain.
8. Two pieces of pipe to connect the elbows. They are used if the width of the eaves overhang exceeds 25 cm. The dimensions of the segments are determined in fact at the work site, and cutting is also done there. If the roof eaves are less than 25 cm, the knees are simply attached to each other.
9. Pipes for riser. They are determined by the distance from the eaves to the ground minus the lengths of the drainage outlet, drain and another 20 - 40 cm - this is the distance from the earth's surface.
10. Brackets for fastening risers. Two are required: one is installed near the lower elbow, the second near the drain from the drain riser. The rest are installed near each connection of drainpipes, but at least every 1.5 m.

Elements of a drainage system for a house with an attic are calculated using a similar method. The same applies if a drain is installed for multi-tiered sloped structures, but calculations are carried out for each slope separately.

But calculating the number of parts and fasteners for a half-hip will be significantly more difficult. Because to install them you will need at least four corner parts and two compensating connectors. The principle of using compensating funnels and connectors is the same as for linear individual sections. However, each closed circuit is equipped with parts to compensate for movements, regardless of the length of the largest cornice.

At the design and calculation stage, you need to decide on the diameter of the future system. Parts for collecting drains are available in several sizes to ensure the removal of atmospheric water in the required volume without overflowing. Precise selection of the size will at the same time eliminate the purchase of an overly large structure, which will look bulky and cost more than an option that is suitable in size.

According to technological recommendations, drains from 1 m² of roofing should take 1.5 cm² of the cross-section of the drainpipe. This is the average conditional coefficient for our middle band. In the southern regions, the indicated figure is 1.5 times higher.

Competent selection of the standard size of a prefabricated drainage structure begins with determining the roof area treated by one funnel with a riser connected to it. For example, from calculating the area of ​​the slope from our example.

The area of ​​the slope will need to be divided by 1.5, which will ultimately allow us to obtain the calculated cross-sectional value of the drain pipe. According to this value, usually rounded slightly upward, it is necessary to select the optimal size of the drain.

In practice, the area of ​​the slope above a private house is rarely more than 80 m². Therefore, they do not bother too much with calculations, but take an average Ø of pipes for a riser of 100 mm with deviations in both directions for roofs of larger and smaller areas.

Construction of the water intake part

Let's look at the process of assembling and installing a PVC drainage system using a specific example. According to the example data, the installation of the drain is carried out after laying the covering using long metal brackets for gutters. Because Cement tiles are laid on the roof, which means it is possible to simply remove the bottom row by slightly lifting the tiles laid on top.

Let's assume that we will equip two separate slopes of a gable structure. The length of the eaves slope is 12 m, the width of the gable overhangs is 50 cm. We will position the funnel so that the riser connected to it runs 10 cm from the corner of the building. To do this, subtract the width of the gable overhang from the edge of the cornice by 50 cm and these same 10 cm.

First of all, let's install the long brackets:

1. Let's do a preliminary fitting. We will attach the outermost holder to the location of the upcoming installation. At the same time, we will install a rule or a regular rail directly on the slope. There should be 2 cm between the rule and the bent part of the hook.
2. Mark the bend point. In addition to the above condition, there is one more thing: the edge of the roofing must overlap the gutter by at least a third. Once we have found a point that meets both conditions, we place a mark on the bracket leg.
3. We find the slope to the drainage funnel. If, for example, a linear meter of cornice should be inclined by 3 mm, multiply them by 12 m, we get 36 mm. This is the difference in the bend height of the outer hooks. If, due to the large width of the gable overhang, the funnel is removed from the edge by almost a meter, then 33 mm will be enough for the slope.
4. Draw a fold line. To do this, we lay out the brackets in the quantity required for arranging one slope in a row and draw an inclined line on their legs. The point of the hook farthest from the funnel should be 3.6 cm higher than the point of the gutter holder next to the funnel.
5. We number the hooks that have passed the marking.
6. We bend the gutter holders. In this case, it is better to use a special bending device to optimize accuracy. Failing that, you can bend it using a vice, being careful not to damage the anti-corrosion shell.
7. We attach the two outer brackets to the sheathing. The outer holders should be 15 cm away from the edge of the roof.
8. We stretch one or two control lines between them. One must necessarily indicate the bottom, the second is used optionally to indicate the top point of the hooks, for example.
9. We install ordinary hooks according to the distance between them and the lines marked by the fishing line.

The most important stage has been completed; now we need to prepare the gutters and funnel for installation. To do this, we try again, but this time on the part of the gutter to which the drain riser will be attached through a funnel. Place a plastic funnel on the gutter to find the exact location to drill a hole for it.

Draw the outline of the hole with a marker without removing the funnel. Then, according to the mark, we will drill a hole in the gutter using a suitable bit. You can form a hole for the funnel with a hacksaw by making two counter cuts. The edges of the cuts or drilled holes must be cleaned with sandpaper.

We install the funnel, as expected, on the gutter and fix it with the help of its snap-on sides. Before installation, apply a strip of about 5 mm of glue to the inside of the funnel around the pipe. Two similar strips are applied around the hole. If we use a compensating funnel, we install it according to the divisions marked inside, related to the atmospheric temperature on the day of installation.

We begin installing the gutter on the brackets with a section with a funnel. To join the gutter parts together, we use connectors, on the edges of which on the inside, as well as on the edges of the connected gutters on the outside, glue is also applied in 5 mm strips.

We install and connect all the gutter parts onto the brackets. Then we attach the plugs, which we have every right to install before assembling the gutters. An adhesive composition is also applied to the inner sides of the plugs before installation.

Installation of a drain riser

The construction of the vertical part of the system begins with the assembly of the transition from the horizontal part of the drain to the vertical riser. For roofs with narrow eaves up to 25 cm, it is assembled by connecting the upper and lower knees. Owners of structures with wide eaves will have to overcome a wider scope of work.

Let's join their ranks to study the next stage of drainage construction:

1. We attach the upper elbow to the funnel pipe, first applying a strip of glue to it along the connection line at a distance of about 1 cm.
2. We are doing another fitting. We attach the lower elbow to the installation location on the wall. Use a ruler to measure the distance between your knees. Mark the position of the lower knee.
3. We determine the actual length of the connecting segment by adding to the distance between the knees the height of the pipe of the upper knee, onto which the segment will be put, and the height of the counter element of the lower knee.
4. We cut out the connecting segment according to the obtained dimensions. We clean the cut.
5. We assemble the transition and mark the point of the upper clamp for the drainpipe. It should be just below the lower knee. Mark the attachment point and again separate the lower elbow and connecting pipe from the upper elbow.
6. We install the clamp, securing it as it should be fixed according to technical rules on a wall made of a specific type of building material.
7. We assemble the transition, now fixing its components with glue. Apply the adhesive composition in 5 mm strips at a distance of about 1 cm from the edges.
8. We mark the installation points for the clamps for the drain riser, not forgetting that the lowest one should be located above the drain. The polymer drainage pipes are connected by couplings, under each of which a clamp must be installed.
9. We attach the riser parts, moving from top to bottom. We connect with couplings, leaving 1 - 1.5 cm in the sockets for free linear expansion of the pipes.
10. We do not tighten the riser clamps too tightly; the pipes should still be able to move slightly up/down.
11. We attach the drain to the lower pipe using glue. If you wish, you can cut the plums from the top with a hacksaw.

If you plan to drain rainwater into a storm drain, it is not necessary to connect a drain to the riser. In such cases, the pipe may end directly above the drainage drain at a distance of 5–10 cm from its surface.

To prevent clogging of the system from above, it is recommended to completely cover the gutter with a grate or at least install protective nets in the form of a crab on the funnels.

Video about the rules for installing PVC gutters

A visual demonstration of the assembly and fastening of a plastic drain will help you quickly and correctly complete the installation:

By following the rules for assembling and installing a drainage system made of polymer parts, you can successfully equip your roof with an excellent system for discharging atmospheric water.

Gutter systems can be installed on any type of building. When choosing the type of drainage systems, as well as the method of its installation, the architectural features of the building, facade material, type of roofing material, features of the roof topography, etc. are taken into account. Installation of drains can be carried out at any time of the year, including in winter.

In order to determine the approximate cost of installation of a drainage system, it is necessary to have a house project - a plan of facades and roofing. In order to determine the final cost of installation work, it is necessary for our specialist to visit the site.

1. Mark the places for installing the brackets on the bottom batten of the sheathing, according to the following rules:

a) If the pitch of the rafters is standard - 800-1000 mm, then the brackets are fastened to the rafters through one batten of the sheathing. One bracket is attached to the sheathing between the rafters.

b) If the pitch of the rafters is not standard, the decking is pre-nailed onto the rafters. The thickness of the board must be at least 300 cm from the edge. Brackets for gutters are installed on this flooring so that their distance from each other is 400-500 mm.

2. Gutter brackets are numbered starting from the middle of the gutter and moving toward the downspout. The overall slope of the gutter should be 2-5 mm per 1 meter of gutter length. The bend point is marked on each bracket.

3. The first and last brackets are secured and then folded down. A cord is stretched between them, which will later serve as a guide. The remaining gutter brackets are attached and bent so that each one touches the cord.

4. If it is necessary to reduce the length of the gutter, use a hacksaw. For the outlet funnel, a V-shaped hole is marked and cut on the gutter, the width of which should be 100 mm. It is recommended to leave 150 mm from the edge of the gutter to the drainage outlet pipe.

5. The front edge of the funnel is wound along the outer bend of the gutter. The funnel must be pressed tightly against the gutter and fixed, for which the carved flange of the funnel is bent onto the rear edge of the gutter.

6. The gutter is inserted into the brackets and secured downwards. The eaves strip is attached to the sheathing so that its lower edge overlaps the edge of the gutter.

7. In places where the gutters are connected to each other, as well as to the corners of the gutter, they are inserted into each other so that the overlap is 25-30 mm. A gutter connector is installed at the joints. To secure the gutter connector, the rear flange of the gutter connector is hooked onto the inside edge of the gutter, the front of the connector is pulled up against the gutter, and then the lock is engaged. The connection made in this way is hermetically sealed, and the connection point is reliably protected from corrosion and has an aesthetically finished appearance. A plug is installed at the end of the gutter.

8. The size of the connecting pipe of the drainage system is determined locally, the excess part of the pipe is sawed off with a hacksaw. There are two crimps on the pipe, which allows you to use sections of one pipe in two places where connections are made.

The drainage system is an integral part of any building. It protects its facade from moisture that accumulates and then flows down the roof. Today, the elements of such systems are made of various metals, including copper, and various types of plastic.

A do-it-yourself drain can be made from any material, since the installation instructions are the same for everyone. This is due to the fact that they have the same structure, regardless of the material used to make their individual elements.

Step-by-step installation instructions

Like any other process, this one requires some consistency. Therefore, the best option would be to consider the entire process of assembling plastic or metal gutters in stages. It all starts, as usual, with preparation. To do this, a system diagram, or plan, must be prepared. Then calculations are carried out on it, and material is purchased according to the calculations.

When all this is done and all the material is already available, then you can begin the actual installation.

Installation of fasteners

Do-it-yourself gutter installation begins with installing brackets. It must be said right away that today the industry produces a wide variety of different types of brackets. The choice will depend mainly on where you plan to mount this bracket:

• Rafter system;
• Wall.

Advice! The brackets need to be fastened so that their center line is slightly inclined. 5 cm for every 10 meters will be enough. This will allow you to later install a gutter sloping towards the drain pipe.

If the length of the gutter is more than 20 meters, then it is recommended to make two slopes of 10 meters, respectively, and there will also be two drain pipes.

The brackets should be mounted at a distance of 50-60 cm between each other. Very often this situation arises: the brackets are planned to be attached to the rafters, and they are located at a distance of 120 cm. At the same time, the holders themselves need to be attached every 50-60 cm. In this case, they do it very simply - use two different types of holders. In this case, some must be mounted on the rafters, and others on the walls.

Installation of funnels

The installation of a drainage system involves the installation of water inlet funnels. These are elements that serve to receive water from the gutter and direct it into the drain pipe.
It must be said right away that funnels are attached only at the places where drain risers are attached, which should be clear from the above.

Among other things, funnels often serve as connectors for plastic gutters. In this case, you need to start working with them.

To do this, special holes are cut in the funnels, in the places where the gutter will be attached to them, and the edges are cleaned after work. Glue is used to attach plastic funnels.

After all these procedures have been completed, the funnel is equipped with a special mesh that will not let various debris into the drain pipe.

Working with gutters

Gutters, like the pipes themselves, can be either rectangular or round. Depending on this, the necessary fasteners for them are selected. Since such clamps were discussed a little higher, now it remains to be said that the gutters are simply inserted into them.

Those edges that remain unused are closed with special plugs.

Advice! plugs should only be purchased with rubber seals. If there are none, then you should make such a seal yourself.

Gutter connection process

If the gutters are connected not through a funnel, then this can only be done using a special additional element called a connector. It is put on the two ends of different gutters and fastens them, forming a key connection.

The elbow can be rectangular or round depending on the shape of the funnel. In general, before installing a drainage system, you should decide on its material, its shape and other parameters.

So, the knee fits directly onto the funnel from below. The elbow is needed to direct the drain pipe towards the wall. This will allow you to secure it with special clamps. The knees can have different angles.

Installation of risers

So, after the elbows have been attached, you can begin installing the risers. This is quite easy to do. First, the riser is attached to the knee from below. Then it is secured with clamps. After this, another one is attached to the installed part of the pipe, if necessary, that is, in the case when the height of the first part is not enough.

How to work with clamps

Separately, the issue of clamps should be considered. It must be said right away that different elements are used for brick and wooden facades. However, as a rule, the clamp consists of two arcs, which are placed on the riser from two different sides and then fixed. Fixation is carried out using two bolts, which are fixed at the ends of the arches.

The final element is the drain

The drain is shaped very much like a knee. Actually, its functions are the same - it serves to rotate the riser, only this time away from the wall.

The pipe and drain are installed so that there is about 40 cm from the edge of the latter to the blind area.

The ideal option is when the calculation of the drainage system is thought out at the stage of drawing up the overall project: this will make it possible to comply with technical requirements, according to which the installation of drains is carried out before laying the roofing material. However, it often happens that this procedure is carried out on a finished roof, which is associated with a number of difficulties.

In what situations is the drain attached only to the front board?

Installation of drainage system hooks only on the front board is possible in cases where the ventilation of the under-roof space is carried out using special holes in the eaves lining - the so-called. "perforated soffits". This is the simplest and most inexpensive type of ventilation, but its effectiveness leaves much to be desired.

For a more complete air flow, use a gap under the sheathing. This implies a lower location of the frontal board and fixation of the brackets exclusively to the sheathing. The disadvantage of this method is the risk of the board collapsing under snow load. The decision on the advisability of one or another approach to the installation of gutters is made by the owner of the house.

Another reason for installing drainage hooks on the front board is to carry out the installation of drainage structures after the completion of the main construction work. A common situation is when an unfinished house with an expensive roofing is purchased: in order to avoid the labor-intensive procedure of dismantling it, it is easier to attach the gutters to the front board. The same algorithm of actions is selected when replacing the drainage system.

The third reason why brackets can only be installed on the surface of the front board is the use of anti-condensation waterproofing film. As the installation rules state, it must necessarily go to the overhang of the cornice, which implies the possibility of installing gutters exclusively on the frontal board.

Common methods of installing a drainage system

The instructions for installing the drainage system imply the use of special mounting hooks. According to building codes, they can be installed on a continuous sheathing (soft roof), on the surface of the rafters or on the outside of the wind board.

There are seven main ways to install a gutter:

1. To the rafters. Some beginners expect to be able to lift a couple of sheets of roofing material to secure hooks to the sheathing after the roofing job is complete. However, as practice shows, this is not so easy to do, because you have to dismantle several rows of roofing screws. As a result, unsightly holes remain in the places where they were installed, which will need to be covered with patches.
   To get out of the situation, use lining of the boards on the roofing material, which avoids its deformation when removing and unscrewing the screws. As for slate roofs, special wooden inserts are used directly into the waves of the material: they are turned in advance, exactly according to the profile. In this case, a through fastening of the drain through a sheet of slate and a wooden insert is used.
2. On the front board. The simplest method of installing mounting brackets on an already finished roof is to install them on the surface of the wind board. At the same time, the frontal board itself is often designed as a separate decorative element. Metal roofs are best equipped with short steel hooks mounted on metal strips. If we are talking about a lightweight plastic gutter, then the basis for fixing it can be an ordinary wooden wind board.
3. With the help of crutches. There are situations when there is no frontal plate at all. A way out of this state of affairs may be to install special crutches made of metal or wood into the wall. They will act as a mounting base for the gutters, which in this case are mounted on studs or beams.
4. Support brackets. Small adjoining buildings are allowed to be equipped with brackets on supports or other devices.
5. Invisible brackets. Mounting devices are offered for sale that are almost invisible after installation. It's all about the direction of fixation: in this case it is carried out from above. The installation step of such structures should not exceed 40-70 cm, in order to avoid deformation under the influence of snow and ice loads. If the brackets are intended to be attached to the sheathing or the top of the rafters, they are bent to the shape of the roof slope.
6. Adjustable fasteners. This is an innovative development that allows, by tightening the screws, to adjust and adjust the brackets to a particular roof inclination angle. This will eliminate the need to check the bend radius of each individual fastener. This product consists of two main moving parts: they are positioned relative to each other, depending on the required fixation height.
7. Installation directly on the surface of the roofing material. There are expensive fastening structures on sale that allow the installation of gutters in the most difficult situations when fragile or corrugated coating is used. It is important to understand that this installation approach can only be used in areas with low rainfall.

As a result, we can say that the degree of reliability of the fastening directly depends on the correct installation of the gutter. It should be understood that the drain is not designed to effectively withstand snow loads: this is the task of snow retainers and special heating cables.

The technology for installing gutter hooks on a finished roof requires closer consideration.

Calculation of the required number of hooks, gutters, pipes

To calculate the required number of drainage elements, use the formula (B + H/2) x C

Explanation of symbols:

• B – horizontal distance between the overhang and the ridge.
• H – height.
• C – roof length.

All parameters are indicated in meters.

The procedure for installing drainage elements on the surface of the wind board:

1. On the surface of the previously installed board, mark a horizontal line in the highest section of the gutter. For these purposes, it is convenient to use a laser level.
2. The resulting marking is transferred along the entire length of the gutter. In this case, a slope of 3-5 mm per linear meter of drainage should be taken into account.
3. Next, all fastening hooks are numbered. When applying markings, it is important not to forget the slope of the gutter. To change the radius of the hooks, use a special hook bender.
4. The first step is to install the first and last hooks. Next, you should stretch the cord between them: it should be at the very bottom of the gutter. Using the resulting guide, it is quite simple to install the remaining fasteners.
5. When determining the location of the funnels at the ends of the gutters, their size is taken into account: the funnel must be applied to the surface of the board, and its outline must be traced with a pencil. A 45 mm edge is left between the edge of the contour and its center. To cut out a hole, use a regular hacksaw or special metal scissors.
6. The finished frames are bent outward, inserting the gutters into each other. It is necessary to ensure that the front parts of the gutter are put on correctly: in this case, the spout should be in the curl itself.

Correct positioning of gutters and funnels

The gutter is installed in the following sequence:

• First you need to install the funnel and the adjacent gutters.
• The edges of the gutters are fixed with self-tapping screws to the surface of the wind board.
• Fastening the funnel and gutter continues until their profiles completely match.
• You should carefully check the degree of slope and location of fasteners.
• Next, the gutter profile is installed on the brackets, followed by joining. To close the empty ends, the package includes special plugs.
• Funnels and pipes in the wall are connected by bends.
• After this you need to install the bracket for the pipe.
• At the end, the direction of installation of the drain is marked to install the vertical parts of the structure.

Modern metal gutters are connected using sealing clamps. To connect plastic gutters, latches on clamps, rubber seals and cold welding can be used. During these procedures, it is important not to forget about linear expansion compensation.

You can also use special grates for the drainage system to clean the flowing water from various debris that falls onto the roof surface from nearby trees (branches, leaves, pine needles). If blockages occur, the drainpipes begin to clog, which in winter can lead to the freezing of water inside the drains, with the threat of their rupture.

How to install and secure drainpipes - instructions

The first step is to decide on which wall it is better to install them, and which mounting method will be optimal in this case:

• On the surface of three-layer walls, only the top facing layer can be used to attach brackets. With a thickness of 90 mm, the anchor is installed at a depth of 60 mm. A layer thickness of 120 mm will require a depth of 80-90 mm.
• It is recommended to drill double-layer walls upon completion of its finishing: the depth of the holes is 60-90 mm. When immersing the dowel, it must enter the second layer of insulation, after which it is allowed to tighten the fastener.
• On a single-layer wall, the bracket is fastened with screws or expansion dowels, with an immersion depth of more than 60 mm.
• In the case of wooden frame walls, the holder should be secured using self-tapping screws. For fixation in this case, it is convenient to use a long, sharp rod.

It is best if the installation of vertical fastening elements of the drainage system is carried out during the construction of the walls.

Features of installing pipes to the wall

If installation is carried out on finished walls, the following rules should be observed:

1. Installation of drainpipes is carried out only from below.
2. The mounting holes should be small in diameter.
3. The drain pipe and the wall surface must be separated by a certain distance.
4. To protect the foundation from water flowing under it, a cut off drain elbow is installed below.

Brick walls are equipped with plastic dowels into which screws attached to a clamp are screwed. It is more convenient to mount it on wooden walls using special rods or plates with self-tapping screws.

How to attach a vertical drainage system:

1. Couplings are used to connect pipes.
2. When inserting the down tube, a gap is left.
3. The holder with trunk is installed under the coupling. Tees are mounted in the same way.
4. At the end of the procedure, the lower outlet and pipe are secured.

It is advisable to place the corner pipe closest to the eaves at a distance of 150 mm from the corner of the building.