How to properly glue fiberglass wallpaper. Rules for gluing vinyl wallpaper with your own hands Correct wallpaper sticker

How to properly glue fiberglass wallpaper.  Rules for gluing vinyl wallpaper with your own hands Correct wallpaper sticker
How to properly glue fiberglass wallpaper. Rules for gluing vinyl wallpaper with your own hands Correct wallpaper sticker

Today we will show you how to hang wallpaper in an apartment with your own hands. Moreover, we should not forget that we live in the 21st century, which means we will learn to glue modern wallpaper with normal glue.

Paper wallpaper is the most affordable option

The most affordable option. Paper - environmentally friendly pure material and allows air to pass through well, but such wallpaper can only be used in rooms with low humidity. They cannot be washed, and their strength is quite low.

There are smooth paper and structural wallpapers. Smooth - made entirely of paper with applied printed design; structural ones are made by applying thick paint to paper using screen printing; they can be single-layer or multi-layer. Multilayer - stronger and hides better minor defects surfaces. Structural ones often have a variety of embossing, which is formed by extruding the design with a relief roller. Despite the fact that in general they are not moisture resistant, they are also available “for painting”, with a water-repellent composition applied to the surface.

Vinyl

Vinyl wallpaper benefits due to its moisture resistance

Produced by applying it to paper or fabric base PVC with subsequent application of a pattern or embossing.

The main advantage of this type of wallpaper over paper is its moisture resistance and, accordingly, the possibility wet cleaning. In addition, vinyl is stronger and lasts longer, does not fade in light and does not change color under the influence of the external environment.

Foamed vinyl wallpaper imitates decorative coverings

There are also foam vinyl wallpapers. They have very pronounced texture, basically imitating decorative coatings (for example, “bark beetle”), due to this they can completely hide minor surface defects.

Non-woven

Vinyl wallpaper on a non-woven backing is particularly durable

Vinyl wallpaper on a non-woven base is even more durable. An additional advantage of this type is that, as a rule, the glue is applied to the wall rather than the canvas, which is much more convenient.

This wallpaper is breathable and hypoallergenic

Non-woven fabrics are made from textile or cellulose fiber based on a polymer binder. Breathable, hypoallergenic, not afraid of water. They reinforce the surface quite well, which, by the way, also applies to the previous type. The glue is also applied only to the wall.

These wallpapers are the longest lasting

Speaking in simple words, this is paper + vinyl, but silk threads are interspersed into this vinyl using a special technology, which enhances the strength and their ability to withstand the effects of aggressive environments (this is the longest-lasting wallpaper), and also gives a very solid appearance.

Fiberglass wallpaper has a whole list of unique properties

A special type made from glass fibers various densities and thickness. Such wallpapers have unique properties. Firstly, they do not burn, and therefore do not emit harmful combustion products. Secondly, they are made from natural ingredients: quartz sand, limestone, clay. Thirdly, they are very durable, it’s not for nothing that their main purpose is painting fiberglass- surface reinforcement. Fourthly, they are super durable. Fifthly, glass wallpaper “breathes”. Sixth, they can be repainted up to 20 times without losing the relief of the design.

There are also textile, natural, liquid and photo wallpapers. We will not consider them due to their not particularly high consumer popularity.

How to choose the right glue

Modern wallpaper adhesives, as a rule, consist of modified starch and/or methylcellulose, antifungal additives and sometimes PVA and an indicator - a substance that turns a color when interacting with water. Accordingly, when the glue dries, it becomes colorless again.

Cheap glue for paper wallpaper and the so-called universal glue most often contain only starch; more expensive varieties already contain an indicator and antifungal components. It should not be used for gluing heavy types of wallpaper, such as vinyl. It is applied to the canvas, which after application is left for several minutes to soak.

“Vinyl” adhesive is most often made from methylcellulose. It has significantly greater adhesive ability than starch. This glue is applied only to the canvas, after which you need to wait a while until it is saturated - usually 10 minutes.

There are wallpapers that require applying glue to both the canvas and the wall. Usually these are very dense vinyl with a non-woven backing. The composition of non-woven glue is identical to that for vinyl. The difference is that here it is not applied to the canvas, but only to the wall, although there are rare exceptions.

The same glue is suitable for glass wallpaper; it is usually written “for heavy wallpaper”, but there is also separate class specifically for glass wallpaper, although, of course, the composition is still the same, it’s just that the concentration of MC in such glue is higher, as a result of which the mass turns out to be thicker.

For wallpaper borders, a special ready-to-use adhesive is used; this is indicated in its name. There are also special ready-made adhesives for joints and others problem areas like outside corners. But they are rarely needed.

Tools and accessories.

Before we start gluing, we should have this on hand:

  1. Wallpaper.
  2. Wallpaper glue.
  3. Stationery knife.
  4. Bubble level (or plumb line).
  5. Wide and narrow brushes (or roller instead of wide).
  6. Wallpaper spatula or roller.
  7. Roller for joints.
  8. Polyethylene film.
  9. Bucket.

Work equipment

Preparing the wall and wallpaper

Before pasting wallpaper, you need to tidy up the surface. Ideally, it should be plastered, sanded and primed. But what if there is already old wallpaper or, even worse, paint hanging where we are going to work?

The old ones definitely need to be removed. Any available means are suitable for this, but it is best to take a spatula. If you can’t scrape off the wallpaper “dry”, you can wet it - preferably very hot soapy water, almost boiling water, or wet it and then warm it properly with an iron (through a rag) or a hairdryer.

After the old ones are removed, it is necessary to refine the surface of the wall: repair holes and cracks; if the wall is uneven, putty all over it and sand it.

It's another matter if the wall was covered with paint. The water-based emulsion is washed off quite easily with the same boiling water and soap, but oil paint you will have to sand it with a coarse abrasive mesh or sandpaper.

When the surface is prepared, it will need to be primed, preferably with a primer deep penetration, and this must be done shortly before gluing begins, ideally on the same day, in order to prevent dust from settling on the wall again. If you don’t want to buy a primer, you can use a weak solution of wallpaper glue instead.

So, the walls are prepared, it’s time to calculate the amount of material. To do this, measure the perimeter of the room and its height. Per roll - 10 linear meters; if the ceiling height in a particular room is less than 2.5 meters, we get 4 pieces from one roll, if more than 2.5 meters - only three + quite large waste. Divide the perimeter of the room by the width of the canvases; standard widths: 53, 70, 106 cm. We get the number of stripes, round them up big side, and now you need to divide it by the number of strips in one roll: 3 or 4, and round up again. We get the number of rolls. If we only have 3 stripes coming out of one, we don’t have to include the width of the window and door into the perimeter - the trim will go there. But if we have wallpaper with a pattern, then it is better to take into account the entire perimeter. It would be nice to do all these calculations while simultaneously marking the walls into stripes.

The gluing begins from the window (this way there will be potentially less waste and the shadow will not interfere), it is advisable to walk around with a tape measure and number each future canvas on the walls. When the walls are prepared, the materials have been purchased, you can cut them. Wallpaper without selecting a pattern can be cut for the entire room at once, but with selection, it is better to cut strips as you work. We do this on the floor, having previously spread plastic wrap.

There must be plastic film spread on the floor

We place the sheets with the pattern down, measure the ceiling height + 5 cm for reserve with a tape measure, bend, fold and cut with a sharp stationery knife. On each piece, mark its top with a pencil so that later you don’t get confused and glue it upside down.

We've cut it, now we need to prepare the glue. Looking for it on the packaging required amount water for a specific type of wallpaper, pour that much into a bucket. Next, we begin to slowly pour the glue into the water, pour it in a thin stream, stirring everything vigorously. Usually, after mixing, you need to let the glue sit and swell for an average of 5-10 minutes. After this time, it is ready for work.

Process technology

The work site is ready

So, the cut strips are in a stack on the floor, the glue is ready, we can start working. To apply the glue, use a wide brush or long-haired roller. We remember that for paper and vinyl wallpaper The glue should be applied to the strips themselves, and for non-woven coatings - directly to the wall. Let's assume that our wallpaper is vinyl, we smear the strip with glue, leaving no gaps, Special attention We pay attention to the edges. After the entire canvas is covered with glue, it must be carefully folded with the edges towards the middle, as in the picture, so that it is properly saturated.

This is how you need to fold the wallpaper

If we have previously studied the lesson about plastering slopes, then these same window slopes are smooth and clear - in this case, we begin to glue the strip directly along them. If the quality of the slopes leaves much to be desired, then we should draw a vertical line using a plumb line or level at a distance from window opening, equal to the width of the canvas minus 3–5 cm. That is, we will get a small overlap on the slope. We use this option in our example.

Line for first sheet

Take the soaked cloth and stand on a chair or table. Carefully, slowly, fold back the top edge and unstick it.

The first canvas is applied like this:

We apply it to the line on top and glue the edge along it, after which we press the rest of the canvas against the wall with our palm - just to hold it in place. Then we take a wallpaper spatula or roller (a spatula is more convenient, but it can ruin some types of wallpaper, read the instructions) and begin to expel excess glue and air from under the canvas from top to bottom, from the middle to the edges. As soon as we do this, we go down and unstick the remaining parts of the canvas. Here the window sill will interfere with you and me. You need to cut a strip under it right away; To do this, you must first remove all excess glue above the level of the window sill, take it and hold it bottom part canvas at this level (it is better if an assistant does this) to create a right angle. And carefully, slowly, along the fold line using a metal spatula sharp knife cut through the wallpaper in the corner:

Bend the sheet at the windowsill


The process of trimming a window sill with a spatula

After this, we lower the lower part of the canvas to the floor. Now you need to cut a small vertical. We do the same thing, drive out the glue to this level, press the corner tightly with a metal spatula and cut it:

We need a cut to get the glue out

And, having expelled all the glue and air from under the wallpaper, we do the same under the windowsill:

We carry out the same actions under the windowsill

All that remains is to trim off the excess using a spatula under the ceiling and near the floor. If the angle between the wall and the ceiling is too shallow or simply uneven, then there are two ways out of this situation. The first is to trim the wallpaper, stepping back a couple of centimeters from the ceiling, thereby leaving a white stripe near the ceiling (of course, it must be painted in advance). The second is to close this corner ceiling plinth, but it costs money, and it needs to be glued. But we will assume that our angle is clear and trimming did not cause any problems. That's it, the first strip is pasted. All that remains is to wipe the canvas with a wet sponge or rag to remove possible traces of glue on the surface.

The front page is ready

Excess wallpaper in window opening should be trimmed only after completely dry canvases, otherwise you can scratch not only them, but also the corner, accidentally cutting off the paint from it. Our next canvas falls on internal corner. Professionals usually glue the entire sheet there, but for a beginner this task can be very difficult. Therefore, here we can recommend first cutting the sheet lengthwise into two parts so that the left one extends onto the adjacent wall by about 5–7 cm. Gluing such a sheet is not a problem.

Pasted sheet on inner corner

Now about the wallpaper seams. Basically they are rolled with a special narrow plastic roller. Sometimes manufacturers warn against using it; in this case, you have to carefully smooth the seam with a spatula or, even easier, with your fingernail, but this is rare. So, we stuck the second strip, kicked out the glue, wiped it with a cloth, now we combine the joint at a distance (vertical) of 30–40 cm, forming a tiny overlap - we rolled it with a roller, the seam in this area becomes almost invisible, wiped the wallpaper and the roller with a cloth again - there should be no glue left. We roll again, and so on, until the roller stops getting dirty with glue. We combined the next 30–40 cm and rolled it, and so on to the very bottom.

You should not press hard on the roller - you can push through not only the canvas, but also the putty underneath.

At the end, we wipe the wallpaper in the joint area again with a wet cloth. The right side of the canvas can be dealt with in two ways. You can glue it butt to the left. If before this we cut the sheet lengthwise with a sharp blade (not hanging, of course, but on a hard surface), then, as a rule, this joint will be completely invisible. Another option is to glue the right side overlapping up to the corner, and then cut through both layers at a distance of 3–4 cm from the corner. This method guarantees invisible joint, since the path of the knife blade on both layers is completely identical. But it is only suitable for wallpaper without a pattern.

An ideal seam looks like this

We try to control the verticality of the edges of each subsequent canvas with a level (with the help of a laser level this is done easily and pleasantly). On external corners do the same - make an overlap of 5–7 cm on the adjacent wall and glue the next panel end-to-end or overlapping with a cut.

Applying wallpaper to the outer corner

Thus, we reach the door and stop.

Here we are at the door

We will start gluing the next sheet again from the window. We already know how this is done:

We also glue the next sheet from the window

And again at the door

Now you need to cut out the wallpaper, 10 centimeters wider than the unpasted distance, and glue it over doorway overlap with two side panels, then cut through 2 layers (along the dotted line in the figure):

Joining strips above the door

Removing unnecessary things and admiring them perfect seams. All we have to do is do the same above and below the window. First, we glue full-width panels end-to-end:

Only the area under the window remains uncovered

And then the rest, just like above the door, cutting through both layers.

The room is almost ready

The next morning, carefully use a knife blade (namely, a blade, without a knife) to cut off the excess on the slopes. I advise you to do this not in a zigzag, but simply by moving the blade along the plane of the slope, tilting the blade under acute angle to the wallpaper.

Trimming the excess in the window opening

That's it, we are happy with the result:

All that remains is to be happy with the result

Video: DIY wallpapering

In the example, vinyl wallpaper was considered, but other types are glued in exactly the same way, with the only difference being the method of applying the glue. Good luck with your renovation!

Wide wallpaper is a real wonder for a novice builder. Our compatriot is accustomed to using standard canvases. But along with this, there are wallpapers that have a larger roll width, and the approach to work in this case changes radically. Although this material from regular wallpaper not much different, but significantly reduces the effort spent on repairs due to its increased width. From this article you will learn how to glue correctly wide wallpaper, how to choose them wisely, mark the wall and paste the entire room.

What types of wide wallpapers are there?

Almost all Russian wallpaper products are this moment produced according to a certain standard - most developers are familiar with wallpaper 53 centimeters wide. Foreign-made wallpapers are presented in a richer assortment, but at the same time they often have a non-standard width. For example, wallpapers of Italian and German manufacturers, whose products are quite widely represented on our market, have a working width of 106 or 70 centimeters.

And the special size wallpapers that are presented in model range Belgian companies make up a collection with roll widths of 90, 100 and even 140 centimeters. A number of models from the famous French manufacturer include wallpaper with a width of 90 and 70 centimeters. If, after considering various wallpaper options, you have chosen a wide size for yourself, then you just need to figure out the question of how to hang wide wallpaper.

Wide wallpapers have a non-woven base, so they do not require impregnation with glue. To achieve the desired result, you just need to smear the prepared wall with adhesive and place a dry cut sheet on it. However, you will have to first level the surface using finishing and starting putty. If you don’t take this “little thing” into account, you will definitely end up with mismatched seams.

However, you should not think that wide wallpapers are represented exclusively by non-woven fabrics. With the same success, the canvas can be paper, light, heavy and used with other glue in combination.

Advantages of wide wallpaper

But before choosing and pasting wallpaper, it is worth talking about the advantages of the wallpaper size chosen by the consumer, which are especially attractive to ordinary consumers. The most obvious of these advantages is that the number of seams becomes noticeably smaller when working with wallpaper of this type.

It should be noted that wide wallpapers were specially designed to achieve the so-called “seamless” effect. The number of joints between pasted adjacent strips is reduced almost by half, which makes them invisible during repairs.

In addition, the use of wallpaper custom size significantly simplifies all procedures for gluing them. It is unlikely that any of us will doubt that cutting 5 pieces of wallpaper, treating them with glue and then gluing them to the wall is much easier than doing the same with 9 pieces of standard wallpaper. Of course, the effort and time spent on repairs in both of these cases are not comparable.

The cost of purchasing wallpaper material is also reduced, because with equal quality indicators, the cost of a wide roll is less than the price of two rolls of standard size wallpaper.

Disadvantages of wide wallpapers

There are no downsides to wide wallpapers, but there are some inconveniences when working with them. In this situation, it is recommended to very carefully prepare the surfaces for pasting. If the walls are poorly aligned, then high-quality pasting will be impossible. The fact is that defects and unevenness of the walls do not allow achieving ideal joining of adjacent strips of wallpaper.

Due to the large width, it may turn out that their total length will not be enough, and to cover the last couple of centimeters of the wall you will need to buy an additional roll. Due to the fact that the number of strips of wallpaper of this type is more difficult to adjust to the width of the wall than for standard wallpaper, a certain overconsumption of material is possible.

Another limitation that significantly affects the entire work process is that wide wallpaper is best glued by two people.

How to choose wide wallpaper

The peculiarity of wide wallpaper is that it looks a little different in a roll than after pasting it on the wall. Therefore, it is better to choose them in specialized stores, where there are samples displayed on the stand.

When looking at the rolls on display, you should start from the bottom of the stand, moving to the top, and then look at the middle samples. This should be done because the human psyche is designed in such a way as to protect a person from an overabundance of visual information. The gaze best captures what is in front of the eyes. Experienced sellers know this, and they place wallpaper that is not in particular demand in the middle of the stand.

If you want to perform original design housing, buy all materials from one collection - borders, wallpaper, fabric for curtains. When choosing, give preference to wallpaper that has a quality certificate. Although rumors that vinyl wallpaper is not particularly environmentally friendly are completely unfounded, it is still worth asking about the quality.

Preparing the surface for pasting

The most difficult thing in working with wide wallpaper is preparation. work surface walls Preparing the surface of the walls for wallpapering with a large width should begin when the finishing of the ceiling has not yet been completed. In this case, you must:

  • Remove the covers of sockets and switches, and then seal the holes with adhesive tape, which can be easily removed after work;
  • Remove all screws, nails, dowels and plugs from the walls;
  • Completely remove the old coating from the walls, making sure that even the slightest traces do not remain;
  • Inspect everything carefully again.

How to glue wide non-woven wallpaper if the walls are not very smooth? In this case, it is necessary to carefully level the surface with a dry mixture or cover the walls with plasterboard. The latter technique makes it possible to perform internal thermal insulation, and this is of great importance if mold has appeared on the walls - you cannot glue wallpaper on such walls until complete removal fungus and its causes.

Primer of walls for wide wallpaper

On smooth walls Before pasting, it is imperative to apply a primer, which will close the numerous microscopic pores. Its use will save the adhesive mixture, in addition, the glue will not be too absorbed into the wall, thereby ensuring the strength of the wallpaper. According to the rules, good adhesion of the base to the surface is recommended; this is precisely what is ensured by the primer, removing all dust from the walls.

By the way, if you spread glue on unprepared walls, some of it will be absorbed very quickly, and you won’t be able to complete the task properly. Before you begin gluing the wallpaper, the primer must dry completely.

If you use foam or other borders when finishing, you should note that they need to be installed on the wall before wallpapering. In the process of work, you will need a wide brush for applying glue, a special rubber roller, a long ruler, a pencil, a plumb line, scissors, a stationery or construction knife, as well as cotton rags.

Pasting wide wallpaper

When purchasing, it is recommended to check the compatibility of the selected adhesive and wallpaper. It is necessary to pay attention to the group of wallpaper, because according to the accepted classification, the material is divided into light, dense and heavy wallpaper. When working with non-standard wallpaper It is customary to apply glue only to the wall, but check the instructions to be sure.

How to glue wide vinyl wallpaper so that the joints are less noticeable? Work must be started from the window and carried out in the direction of the incident light. When joining panels, it is imperative to maintain the design and pattern. It may take more than one roll of wallpaper, but the result is worth it - the wallpaper will look like a solid canvas on the wall.

In principle, the method of covering walls with wide wallpaper is no different from the method of working with standard wallpaper. Just like regular wallpaper, wide wallpaper should be glued starting from the middle and from the top. If some irregularities do appear, then you just need to make a small cut on the edge of the wide wallpaper and overlap the edges of the cut on the wall.

When gluing meter sheets, it is convenient to use two stepladders, because with such an organization of work, good alignment of the strips along the surface of the walls is ensured. In addition, no additional movements of the partners who glue the sheet are required.

How to glue wide wallpaper: step-by-step instructions

  1. First, you should measure the length of the wall and calculate the number of whole strips that fit on it.
  2. It is imperative to mark the first canvas, starting from the window and moving deeper into the room. At a distance of 105 centimeters from the corner, you need to draw a vertical line to the floor using a plumb line, pencil and ruler. In case of mismatch in the vertical angle, leave one or two centimeters.
  3. An important point is wallpapering in the corners, so give special meaning this procedure. It is better to leave an overlap at the corner, which will later be covered by a panel on the opposite wall, but will not create an unsightly gap.
  4. After this, you should cut the required number of whole strips for one wall with a small allowance in length. Coat the wall well with glue to the width of the panel, going beyond the marked line.
  5. Start pasting together with an assistant. One person should hold the top edge, climb onto a stepladder and place the cut close to the ceiling line, a previously drawn horizontal line or border and to the marked vertical, the coincidence of which is adjusted by an assistant.
  6. Smooth the material to the wall, displacing any air bubbles that have arisen, moving from the middle to the edges. Remember that you should not try to stretch the wallpaper horizontally, because after drying it will create a gap and the wallpaper will return to its original position.
  7. The following canvases must be placed close to the previous ones, without gaps or overlap.
  8. As a rule, it is not possible to get the exact number of whole strips per wall, and the last of them has to be cut off vertically. The cloth on next wall It is worth applying exactly from the corner, blocking it. Exposed glue at the joints is wiped off with a clean rag.
  9. Excess wallpaper can be trimmed only after the canvas has dried, since otherwise the sheet may shrink in the corners, uneven gaps will appear near the floor and near the ceiling, which cannot be masked.

Taping inconvenient places

When using non-standard wallpaper, pasting becomes much more complicated difficult places in the room: corners, behind the radiator and areas above the openings. But it is easier to glue the ceiling with wide wallpaper, since two people still take part in this process, and the number of sheets will be significantly reduced compared to standard wallpaper.

To paste wide wallpaper behind the radiator, you will have to cut the roll into small pieces. The best option- cut several pieces from one canvas, which is intended for pasting a flat part; fortunately, the width allows this.

When pasting an inconvenient place, difficulties arise that are associated with matching the pattern. If you can still guess the dimensions, then it is quite problematic to achieve a matching pattern. This procedure requires some design skills and experience and may not work the first time.

It is best to purchase non-woven wallpaper, because you can move it on the wall within ten minutes after sticking it on. In this case, under no circumstances should you use adhesive compositions that contain additives to speed up drying. This glue is intended exclusively for experienced workers.

How to glue non-standard wallpaper alone

Contrary to popular belief that wide wallpaper only needs to be hung by two people, this work is quite feasible for one person. After all, the average width of the material is 106 centimeters, and the span of a person’s arms reaches at least 150 centimeters. That is, you can easily join the seams and perform alignment.

If you don’t manage to do everything smoothly the first time, don’t despair. You can always remove the canvas, coat the wall with glue again and repeat the process again, taking into account the mistakes made and watching how to glue wide wallpaper in the video. And, of course, remember that everything should take place indoors, where there are no drafts. Doors and windows can only be opened every other day.

Finally, I would like to present to your attention a few simple, but useful tips, which can be useful when covering rooms with non-standard wallpaper. You should prepare in advance the entire necessary arsenal of tools that you will need to complete the gluing work. This way you can avoid wasting time during work and save money. cash. If necessary, you can use leveling aluminum corners, which are carefully puttied.

But it’s not enough to know the technique for sticking wide wallpaper; you also need to understand how to stick wallpaper in an original way in order to get the result spectacular interior. For these purposes, several types of wallpaper of different shades and textures are usually used simultaneously to add variety to the design of the room. Even novice designers should know that combining wallpaper can hide the shortcomings of a room's layout and highlight its advantageous aspects.

For example, horizontal alternation can visually reduce the height of the room, while vertical alternation can expand narrow passages. Methodology " accent wall» helps highlight the main piece of furniture. Independent decoration The interior features wallpaper inserts.

Thus, subject to the rules and recommendations described above, wide wallpaper will advantageously decorate your room, and as a result you will get an incredible seamless coating effect. If there is a desire, meter wallpaper can be of any color and any texture, from the most different materials. When choosing a roll, be sure to pay attention to the recommendations regarding application and characteristics of the canvas.

At a certain stage, it is time to glue the wallpaper. A few words about wallpapering technology. First, let's take care of the tools necessary for wallpapering.

We will need:

  • scissors and/or wallpaper cutting knife;
  • roller or brush for applying glue;
  • rubber roller or brush for smoothing wallpaper;
  • wallpaper spatula;
  • clean rag;
  • a bucket of water and a rag for wiping off excess glue after applying it to the wallpaper;
  • Wallpaper glue is required depending on the type of wallpaper;
  • laser level (if, of course, you have one) or a plumb line.

Wallpapering begins with preparing the walls

Naturally, before the actual wallpapering procedure, it is necessary to plaster and prime. Measure in advance and cut the required number of wallpaper panels of the required length with a margin of a couple of centimeters to level out unevenness near the floor. Then prepare the wallpaper paste according to the instructions on the box. In order to avoid the formation of lumps, the glue should be poured in a thin stream into very cold water, stirring continuously and vigorously. How colder water- the fewer lumps. When the glue is ready, the wallpaper is cut, you can start gluing.

Depending on the type of wallpaper, wallpaper glue is applied either to the wallpaper itself or to the surface to be pasted, as, for example, in the case of. When working with all other types of wallpaper, glue is applied to the underside of the wallpaper sheet. When applying wallpaper glue to the wallpaper, try not to stain its front side, so apply the glue very carefully and before starting to process a new wallpaper sheet, be sure to erase any traces of glue from the surface on which you applied the previous wallpaper sheet. Most often, the wallpaper sheet is laid out either on a table or on a clean floor.

Before you start gluing wallpaper, you should draw a straight line on the wall using a long plumb line and chalk, along which you will glue the first sheet of wallpaper, and start applying glue. By the way, it is much more convenient to use useful tool - laser level, which is often mistakenly called laser level. We purchased such a tool for ourselves and have already seen how useful and necessary it is for... It is best to apply wallpaper glue with a roller or brush. If you are gluing non-woven wallpaper, then you should apply the glue directly to the wall. In other cases, in order for the glue to be evenly distributed, apply the glue in the middle along the wallpaper sheet, then distribute it over the entire surface, especially carefully coating the edges. Then fold the sheet in half for 1-2 minutes with the greased surface facing inward so that the wallpaper is saturated with glue.

Absolute majority modern wallpaper glue joint to joint. The times when there was a technology for wallpapering with overlap have sunk into oblivion. Be sure to make sure that the joint between the wallpaper sheets is not noticeable.

It is most convenient and correct to glue the wallpaper together, with one person standing on a stool or table, depending on height, and gluing the sheet to the ceiling, the second at this time helps to align the panel in such a way as to align its edge with a line drawn along a plumb line, then with Using a rubber roller or brush, smooth the wallpaper sheet and expel the air from under it using movements from top to bottom and from the middle to the edges of the sheet. Have a clean, dry rag ready to immediately remove any excess adhesive that runs along the edge of the wallpaper.

Wallpapering corners

  • when gluing wallpaper in the corners, the wallpaper sheet should not extend more than 4-5 cm onto one side;
  • Glue the next sheet of wallpaper correctly, starting from the very corner, overlapping those same 4-5 cm;
  • The joints and places where the wallpaper panels overlap are additionally lubricated with glue and carefully pressed until completely glued, using a rubber or plastic spatula if necessary.

Some practical tips for those who want to hang wallpaper beautifully and efficiently:

  • remove all switches and sockets from the walls, having previously de-energized the apartment. Holes for them need to be cut immediately after gluing, while the wallpaper is wet, then switches and sockets are installed in place or replaced with new ones;
  • remove the plinths and glue the wallpaper to the floor; if this is not possible, then carefully insert the wallpaper into the crack between the plinth and the wall using a spatula, cut off the excess part of the lower edge of the panel and paste it on top, hiding the seam and the upper part of the plinth;
  • in order to properly glue wallpaper near a doorway, you need to grease the wall around the casing well, as well as the edge of the casing itself and glue a sheet of wallpaper, or, if possible, place the edge of the wallpaper sheet behind the casing using a spatula. This procedure is quite likely if you have modern interior doors;
  • in case wallpapering is done close to the ceiling, you should immediately blot off any excess glue that may end up on the ceiling. If you use high-quality, modern glue, it will not subsequently leave any marks on the ceiling.



Greetings, dear readers of our blog “Do it yourself with us”.

Continuing the topic overhaul apartment today I want to describe in detail the process of how to properly glue wallpaper on walls with your own hands. Where do you need to start? What nuances and features should be taken into account in the work? What issues should you pay special attention to? It would seem that the question is not very difficult, but how many misunderstandings, disputes and disagreements arise when we begin the process itself.

Preparing the walls

First of all, let me congratulate you! How about what? With the fact that if you are interested in the issue of wallpapering, then the dirtiest, hardest work in the repair has already been completed. And you did it!!! Hundreds of kilometers spent shopping, looking for wallpaper, are already behind us. And here they are, the most beautiful in the world, rolled up in tight rolls, lying neatly against the wall!

But don’t rush, you have everything ready, and someone just needs to re-glue the wallpaper without affecting everything else. Therefore, we begin the process by removing all the old wallpaper. To do this, we carefully tear them off the wall; if the glue that holds them in place is weak, the work will go like clockwork, but if the wallpaper is glued well, you will have to work hard.

Correct wallpapering - diagram

If old ordinary paper wallpaper is difficult to remove, then we moisten it with water, simply rolling it with a wet roller or brush. Leave for 10-15 minutes and then carefully remove. Well, the most Hard case, when the wallpaper is covered with a waterproof film on top, the so-called “washable” wallpaper. Only help here mechanical method removal - using a spatula. We remove them by prying them off with a spatula, trying to touch the wall as little as possible.

The wallpaper has been removed, it is necessary to remove all the plaster, which does not hold well and practically falls out on its own, and to cut out the cracked and falling out seams. All areas of depressions, depressions and irregularities that appear must be puttied and subsequently primed after cleaning.

If you decide to level your walls, then after applying the finishing layer, do not forget to prime it. It is very important! Otherwise, when wallpapering, the walls will become dusty and crumble, which will lead to poor adhesion of the wallpaper to the wall. A worse than that, when applying glue to the wall, the plaster may begin to roll off. Use special mixtures sold in stores for this. And if you want to save money, you can use simple PVA glue, 2 cups of glue per bucket of water (from personal experience, excellent primer).

The whole point of preparation comes down to making the walls as smooth and even as possible. Take the time to inspect your walls. Remove all adhered specks and other small debris, as after wallpapering they will appear and will be unsightly. You should be especially careful in this regard when gluing thin wallpaper.

The walls must be strong, clean and dry.

We dilute the glue according to the instructions on the package. I used Quelyd "Special Vinyl" adhesive for vinyl and textile wallpaper.

It is diluted: 1 package per 4-4.5 liters of water and is designed for 6 rolls. For breeding we use suitable container, measure out the required amount of liquid into it and, stirring continuously, introduce dry glue.

Let it disperse a little for 15 minutes, then mix thoroughly again and you can glue the wallpaper.

We glue wallpaper beautifullyalong a straight wall in any room of the apartment

Step 1. We close all windows and doors to prevent drafts.

Step 2. We calculate how many vertical stripes we can fit on one wall. To do this, measure the length of the wall and divide the resulting size by the width of the wallpaper.

My wall length was 3.7 m (3700 mm), and the width of the wallpaper was 0.54 m (540 mm). Total 3700/540 = 6.85. Thus, I have 6 whole stripes and one with an undercut on my wall.

We cut 7 strips according to the height of the room plus 50 mm. for trimming from above and below.

Similar calculations can be made for the other three walls and wallpaper can be cut for the entire room at once.

Step 3. We mark the vertical line for the correct orientation of the first strip.

We retreat from the edge of the wall (I walked from the passage, yours may be from the corner) 500 mm (the distance is slightly less than the width of the strip, so that later, if the corner of the room is a little “cluttered,” you can correct it by trimming the first strip) and put a mark. To mark the vertical line of the strip stickers, we use a plumb line (you can just use a thread with a weight tied to it) or a building level.

We apply a plumb line to the wall and combine it with our mark made earlier. Mark a vertical line and connect the points with a straight line. Thus, we have a line from which we will begin gluing the second strip. We do not touch the first strip (near the aisles or in the corners) for now; we leave the outer strips of one wall for last. I used the same marking technology for .

Step 4. Apply glue to the wall the width of the strip and to the strip of wallpaper, evenly distributing it over the surface using a brush or roller.

Step 5. We glue 1 strip (or rather, we will have a second strip from the edge of the wall or corner, but we are not gluing the first one yet). To do this, starting from the top, carefully apply the strip to the wall. We align the edge of the strip with the drawn vertical line and, using a wide roller, carefully roll the strip to the wall, squeezing out the air trapped between the wall and the strip.

Step 6. We mark the extra length of the strip.

We slightly tear off the strip from the wall and carefully cut off the excess.

This operation can be done without tearing off the strip, but using a stationery knife to cut off the excess. Ultimately we get this picture.

In the future, the joint between the wall and the floor will be covered with a plinth. How to install plastic skirting board You can read it in detail with your own hands.

Step 7. We repeat all the procedures for applying glue to the wallpaper and the wall, and glue the second strip. Only now we join the edge of the strip to the already glued first strip.

Sometimes there are situations when the ceiling is not perfectly level, and you have to trim the top of the strip a little. To do this, we extend the glued strip slightly upward, creating an overlap on the ceiling.

Using a roller, we roll the strip, and using a utility knife or scissors, we cut off the excess wallpaper so that the upper edge of the strip fits exactly into the corner.

We cut off the excess at the bottom, finally roll the glued strip, rolling it with a wide roller with movements from top to bottom and towards the edge of the strip, as if drawing a Christmas tree with a trunk in the middle of the strip. Using a narrow roller, we roll the seam between the strips and the upper and lower parts of the strip adjacent to the ceiling and floor.

We get this picture.

Step 8. Similarly, we glue all the entire strips to the end of the wall.

Step-by-step instructions for proper operation with wallpaper

Video: how to stick vinyl wallpaper yourself

Thanks to everyone who read the article to the end. Please note that here I have fully described the entire process of how to hang wallpaper with your own hands in accordance with my experience and ideas this process. Surely there will be people who have devoted more time to this and have extensive experience and professional skills. Please write about your little tricks, secrets and features on how to glue wallpaper correctly in the comments. Help people who want to gain knowledge on this issue. After all, as they say, the more you give in this life, the more you receive in return.

Sincerely, Ponomarev Vladislav.

Hanging wallpaper indoors is a very responsible and time-consuming undertaking, which very often requires the involvement of assistants, since it can be very difficult to cope with the tasks on your own. But if you take into account the following recommendations, you will be able to paste on high level even on your own.

In this article we will look at how to properly glue wallpaper with your own hands quickly and efficiently, and what you need for this.

To carry out high-quality wallpapering in a room, you need to prepare the following tools for wallpaper work, which will help you do all the work yourself at a high level:

  • lightweight and at the same time practical stepladder;
  • a clean plastic bucket for diluting glue;
  • a construction ditch in which the glue will be located;
  • paint roller for distributing glue;
  • wallpaper ruler for measurements, which also serves for cutting fabrics;
  • tape measure, pencil;
  • a wallpaper brush or plastic spatula, which will help smooth out all the unevenness and bulges that arise when wallpapering;
  • rubber roller for joints;
  • sponge or gauze rag for collecting excess glue thereby creating a clean finished surface.

This list is the necessary minimum, without which it is simply impossible to do. All of the listed tools for wallpapering can be purchased at any hardware store.

Preparatory stage

Answer the question: “How to properly glue wallpaper with your own hands?” in a nutshell, it’s unlikely that anyone will succeed. The gluing process is distinguished by certain actions, which must be treated with the utmost care and precision in order to ensure the proper outcome of the work.

Rules for choosing wallpaper for gluing

The selection of wallpaper is, perhaps, the very first stage. The appearance of the room after renovation, as well as the gluing process itself, largely depends on it. After all, gluing thin, low-quality canvases will be much more difficult.

It is important to choose the most suitable option wallpaper according to the design, color scheme, like, calculating with the help of the required number of rolls to completely cover the room.

The range of wallpapers at the moment is quite large, so you need to treat your choice with maximum responsibility, choosing for yourself exactly the option that suits you best.


Preparing the wall surface

The quality of finishing largely depends on how correctly it is carried out.

First, remove the old wallpaper using hot water, rags or brushes. Sometimes ordinary water is not enough, and the old coating can be easily removed with your own hands only using a soap solution.

After removing the old coating from the walls, all unevenness must be removed by applying a thin layer of putty. If this step is ignored, after wallpapering all sorts of defects can spoil the appearance.

Gluing technology

It is better to start this stage by preparing the glue, since you will have to wait some time for it to thicken. Wallpaper glue must be diluted in accordance with the existing instructions, which spell out all the details.

If the adhesive mixture is diluted incorrectly, wallpapering may be complicated by the appearance of extremely undesirable problems in the form of lumps or too liquid consistency.

While the glue thickens, you can move on to preparing the wallpaper, namely selecting a pattern and cutting strips to the required length.

After the materials have been prepared, you can begin gluing the surface.

Where to start gluing

Many people start wallpapering the room from the window the old-fashioned way. This is explained by the fact that the seams of overlapping paper wallpaper are less noticeable with this type of pasting.


Since modern vinyl, non-woven and many other types of wallpaper are glued end-to-end, you can start pasting from anywhere. However, there are still some rules and techniques that will help you find answers to the question of how to glue wallpaper in various unusual cases:

  1. When gluing vertically, it is best to start from the door or window slope, since it is very important here to glue the first strip strictly perpendicularly. In this case, it is better to additionally use a level or plumb line, which is quite possible to do with your own hands.
  2. It is recommended to start pasting from the corner only if the corners of the room are perfectly even.
  3. In case of pasting a room with big amount windows, openings, niches or ledges, you need to start from the largest landmark.
  4. You can also paste a room from several lines. This technique is justified in the case of decorating a room with wallpaper large windows or the door. The wallpaper joint will be less noticeable if it is made above them.

How to glue correctly

During the gluing process, the wallpaper strips must be carefully applied to the wall and gradually glued from the center to the edges, while pulling diagonally. Next, use a dry cloth or paint roller we expel all the air and excess glue from under the canvases.

Wallpaper can be glued overlapping or end-to-end. The first option is acceptable for thin paper sheets, but end-to-end is better.


Heating radiators are a problematic but important place when wallpapering

Every person who has at least once had to paper a room with their own hands has encountered the problem of finishing behind the radiator. This warmest and most comfortable place in the room creates certain inconveniences during the pasting process, so special attention and a competent approach are paid to it.

If we're talking about In new buildings, where, as a rule, removable radiators and heating radiators are located, the question of “how to hang wallpaper behind them” is solved very simply: first, the battery is dismantled (and it is done very easily and quickly), then the wallpaper is glued, and after it dries The radiators are reinstalled. But what if it is not possible to remove the battery?

For correct pasting For the walls behind the heating radiator, it is recommended to cut the wallpaper into narrow strips and place it behind the radiator. In this case, the surface of the wall behind it must be additionally coated with glue.

In what cases is it necessary to glue wallpaper horizontally?

You can save a lot of time and effort when gluing the wall behind the battery by using horizontal gluing. Also, this wallpapering technology can be used in the case of combining several types of canvases, that is, if you decide to glue the wallpaper horizontally to divide the room into two horizontal halves, or if you want to emphasize some details in the design.

In any case, wallpapering must be done with high quality, avoiding the occurrence of air bubbles, scuffs and other damage and defects.

If it is not possible to paste wallpaper with a perfectly even horizontal stripe at the junction of two different canvases, you can resort to the following secret: paste border tape, which will hide the unevenness of the joint.


Important rules for wallpapering

In order for the wallpapering of walls to be done with really high quality, you should pay attention to the following rules for wallpapering:

  1. Wallpaper glue. It is important not only to choose correctly, but also to use the glue correctly, so read the instructions and rules for using the material in your work.
  2. Room temperature. You cannot paste walls indoors at low temperatures, since the glue will not be able to provide the desired effect, and the wallpaper will freeze. Also, you cannot paste over the walls and ceiling in a room with high temperatures, since in this case the completely opposite effect is ensured: drying out of the glue and the canvas itself.
  3. Measurements. It will be ugly if the canvas somewhere does not reach the right place, therefore, it is recommended to accurately measure the walls or ceiling in advance to avoid inconvenience in the future. Secret correct measurements consists of cutting strips a few centimeters larger than required. In the future, this reserve can be trimmed or hidden with a plinth or baguette.
  4. Selection of drawing. Many modern options Wallpaper needs a quality selection of patterns in order to create an attractive external effect with a precise pattern or design. If you don’t want to waste time on selection, you should choose wallpaper without a pattern. A significant advantage of such options is the fact that, if necessary, you can not completely re-glue the wallpaper, but just one or several strips.