How to properly install a chimney in a bathhouse. A step-by-step guide to choosing the right sauna pipe: external or internal? Variations and designs of chimneys

Before starting work on installing a chimney, you should study its main parameters. From the right choice parameters depends not only on the coefficient useful action stoves, but also the fire safety of the bathhouse and human health. Each boiler manufacturer gives recommendations on the diameter and height of the chimney, depending on technical indicators; they must be followed as much as possible. Don’t think that the stronger the draft, the better the chimney.

Let's look at the main problems of chimneys.

1. Insufficient traction. With weak draft, a limited amount of oxygen enters the firebox, the combustion process slows down, calorific value the furnace drops sharply. In addition, there is a risk of gases entering the room; incorrect dimensions of the chimney often cause backdraft.
2. Too much traction. Hot gases do not have time to give off heat in the furnace, and the fuel begins to “heat the atmosphere.”

Chimneys must meet the requirements of SNiP 2.04.05–91 and DBN V.2.5–20–2001; by the way, they require supply ventilation in the premises. This means that small-sized baths must receive fresh air while heating the stove. It should be noted that our compatriots very rarely comply with this requirement - they save heat.

There are two calculation options: complex and simplified, but they all take into account the amount of oxygen required to ensure combustion of the fuel.

More important point. To prevent the formation of condensation on the walls of the chimney, the temperature of the gases at the outlet of the chimney must exceed +120°C. Condensation on the inside of the pipe causes soot retention, which quickly reduces draft and requires frequent cleaning.

Optimal characteristics of chimneys

• D – chimney diameter;
• Vr – volume of air.

To calculate, you need to know the firebox area (F) and the chimney area f, divide the first value by the second and determine the percentage. For example, the ratio of the chimney cross-section to the firebox cross-section is 10%. Means, minimum height chimney round section is 7 meters, square is 9 meters, and rectangular is 11 meters. The difference in height compensates for the vortex resistance created by each type of chimney.

You must understand that these values ​​only apply to a straight pipe, which is difficult to achieve in a sauna. For the most part, chimney pipes have various turns, this negatively affects draft. To accurately calculate a specific chimney with various curvatures, you will have to invite a “professor”, and we advise you to slightly increase the resulting diameter. All calculations were made with a large margin, plus some increase - this is quite enough for a stove running on solid fuel.

Several Yet practical advice by chimneys

Chimneys can be brick, ceramic or sandwich pipes (double). Let's consider the installation of each of these types.

Laying brick chimneys

First, familiarize yourself with the structure of a brick chimney. This is the existing standard, but for a bathhouse you can simplify the design a little at your discretion. Of course, one should simplify wisely; changes should not cause the structure to self-destruct or lack the necessary traction.

Brick chimney installation

It is better to do the masonry from the stove to the ceiling using clay mortar; above, you can use cement-sand mortar; above the roof, only cement-sand mortar.

Brick prices

How to install a chimney?

Step 1. Make markings for the chimney on the ceiling and roof, the holes must be strictly vertical, use a plumb line or level. Cut holes to the calculated dimensions. Prepare sawhorses and solution.

Step 2. Start laying out the top part. It is placed on the prepared place of the furnace; the nominal diameter of the passage should ensure stable draft at various climatic conditions and furnace firing modes.

Important note - make the internal passage as smooth as possible, immediately seal the seams. Any irregularities cause turbulence in the air flow; a large number of irregularities can significantly impair traction. Even with normal nominal flow rates, the thrust will be insufficient.

Check the position of each row; it is impossible to correct mistakes made during laying; the bricks will have to be removed. In order to constantly control the verticality of the chimney, stretch the thread between the corner of the first row of the nozzle and the corner of the hole in the ceiling. This simple device will allow you to lay bricks vertically. The thickness of the chimney is half a brick, which is enough for a bathhouse.

Chimney - ordering

Step 3. Laying fluff. This unit not only protects the ceiling covering from spontaneous combustion, but rather serves as an element for fixing the chimney. Fluffing is the expansion of the outer walls of the structure; to increase their stability, you need to use pieces construction fittings. The fittings should not extend into the chimney opening and be visible from the outside.

Fluff sizes

Each new row should protrude slightly (by a quarter) above the previous one; after three rows, the width of the chimney should be one brick. The widest point should be at the level of the ceiling covering.

Step 4. A very important step. The chimney needs to be secured. To do this, nail the edged boards close to the fluff around the entire perimeter. They will hold the chimney and will not allow it to sway during wind loads. The boards are nailed onto the upper ceiling covering. Perfect option– the fluff is placed close to the ceiling beams, but this situation rarely occurs.

Step 5. We need to turn the fluff into a riser again. Gradually reduce the outer perimeter of the chimney. So lay the chimney before covering the roof.

Step 6. Otter. This structure serves to drain rainwater. The size of the riser is a quarter of a brick. You need to lay it using the same technology as fluff. To ensure that the internal dimensions of the chimney do not change, use special thin inserts. The height of the otter depends on the angle of the roof. The main condition is that the otter should start from the bottom roofing covering and protrude two rows above the top point.

Step 8 Sealing the joint between the otter and the roof covering. Do all sealing work very carefully, select a specific method and additional elements depends on the type of roofing. There are a huge number of different methods, the decision is made on the spot, taking into account maximum number existing factors.

Brick chimneys are among the most complex and expensive types of chimneys, modern materials and technologies make it possible to install simpler, but no less effective structures.

How to install a sandwich chimney

New designs look great, are quickly installed, and have a long service life. All performance characteristics are at the highest level. The only drawback is that the price of these structures is at the same high level.

Manufacturers complete their products with a full set of additional elements: elbows, tees, clamps, plugs, ceiling-passage units, heads, protective screens. The specific choice of additional materials should be made taking into account the design features of the chimney.

One of the advantages of a sandwich chimney is the presence of a layer of insulation that protects the outer pipe from overheating. In addition, this layer allows the inner tube to heat up quickly, which minimizes the amount of condensation, which prevents soot from sticking to its walls.

Sandwich chimney installation algorithm

As an experienced master can notice, the installation algorithm has been significantly simplified. We did this specifically to speed up and reduce the cost of work. At the same time, the functionality and safety of the chimney has not deteriorated. You can, of course, install spark arrestors and deflectors, thermal fungi and weather vanes, and other parts. If you have the desire and money, install it.

Video - Sandwich pipe chimney

Video - Chimney installation

New systems are characterized by high performance and performance, are very reliable and beautiful, and are relatively easy to install. Consist of three parts: an internal ceramic pipe, a layer of insulation and external cladding ceramic bricks special profile. The ceramics have holes in the corners for installing metal fittings. At a higher price than a sandwich chimney, manufacturers produce a large number of different types of ceramic chimneys, differing in appearance and design features.

Not required additional protection wooden architectural elements. Disadvantage - they can only be erect. We will look at the easiest way to install chimneys of these types in a bathhouse.

Step 1. Prepare the installation site, it should be level. Chimneys can be installed on a separate foundation near the stove or on the upper surface of the stove, it all depends on the characteristics of the bathhouse. For masonry you need to use special glue, the solution does not provide sufficient strength.

Prepare metal reinforcement ≈ 1 meter long, the diameter of the reinforcement is within the limits. 5÷10 mm. With its help, we will additionally fix the structure, this will make it possible to completely eliminate violations of the integrity of the chimney. Make holes in the ceiling and roof, there is no need to give a margin in size, a ceramic chimney will protect perfectly wooden elements from high temperatures.

Step 2. Install the first two halves of the ceramic, lubricate the lock with glue, check the position of the halves, and align them if necessary. Insert metal reinforcement approximately one meter high into the side holes. The gaps between the reinforcement and the ceramics need to be filled with glue. You should not try to completely fill the hole; it is enough for the glue to connect the reinforcement and ceramics in several places.

Step 3. Wrap thermal insulation around the ceramic pipe, pull it slightly to the pipe with metal wire or a special clamp. Do not tighten too much, do not allow the heat insulator to shrink. As a rule, a layer of pressed mineral wool is used as a heat insulator.

Step 4. Insert the pipe into the hole in the ceramic and check its position. To speed up the process, you can immediately wrap all ceramic pipes with insulation; the number of pipes should correspond to the height of the chimney.

Step 5. Place the second ceramic on the glue and check the position again. Now you need to insert another pipe. It is placed in the socket first on the glue. It is difficult to get to the lower bell; you need to make some basic adjustments. Take a small one plastic bag from thick film, cut off one corner. It should look like a package that women use when spreading cream on cakes. Through the cut corner, the glue will lie exactly in the pipe socket. Remove the remaining glue from the inner surface of the pipe immediately, do not allow any drips to appear. They swirl air currents and significantly worsen chimney draft.

Step 6. Repeat the described operations, constantly monitoring the position of the chimney. If the length of the protruding reinforcement becomes shorter than the height of one block, insert new rods into the holes. Exit the chimney to the attic of the bathhouse.

Step 7 Carefully seal the gaps between the chimney and the ceiling coverings. For these purposes, you can use ordinary wooden skirting boards or decorative baguette.

Step 8 Reinforce the chimney in the attic. Cut the boards to fit the opening, lay them around the perimeter of the chimney and nail them firmly to the attic flooring. If the height of the attic does not exceed one and a half meters, then such fixation is sufficient. If the height is greater, you will have to make another structure for fixation vertical position chimney. Secondary fixation is made to the rafter legs as high as possible. You can make stops from wood or use metal corners. Choose a specific design taking into account the location of the chimney exit and the characteristics of the truss system of the bathhouse.

Step 9 Seal the roof where the chimney exits. Select the sealing method and materials depending on the characteristics of the roofing. These works in themselves do not require great skill, they only require attention and strict implementation of all technological operations. For sealing, you can purchase factory-made additional elements or make them yourself. We recommend choosing the first option; the roof is not the place where you can experiment. All leaks inevitably cause big problems.

Video - Installation of a ceramic chimney

Video - How to install a ceramic chimney

We strongly recommend that if you have only seen bricks and trowels on TV, do not start laying a chimney right away. Lay out at least 10 rows of bricks on the ground, “teach your hand and eye,” learn how to tie, expand and narrow the wall. And further. Don't read articles that start with "do it yourself" brick chimney very simple". Such articles are written by those who have not done anything themselves and have not seen how others do it.

It’s better to practice laying a chimney in advance without using mortar

After completing all the work, you need to check the “functionality” of your design. For brick stoves with brick chimneys this is not easy. At first there will never be any draft; the stove and chimney must “dry and heat up.” If it’s summer and you have time, open the windows in the bathhouse, the blower and furnace doors in the stove, and the dampers in the chimney. In this position, the chimney should dry for approximately two weeks.

If you don’t have time, then heat with wood; it should only be completely dry. You need to heat it every day, but without too much enthusiasm, don’t throw away a lot of firewood. Take only a few dry logs for each fire. After the wood burns out, do not close the firebox and valve, let the masonry dry until the next day.

Ideally, the combustion products of any fuel are carbon dioxide and water. But in reality, even in the case of very high-quality fuel, soot and carbon monoxide will inevitably be added to them, resulting from incomplete combustion. In addition, fuel - be it coal or firewood - contains impurities that also pollute the air with the products of their combustion.

The entry of combustion products into a room is not only dirt and bad smell, but also a health hazard: carbon monoxide is extremely poisonous, and poisoning with it can have serious consequences. All these combustion products must be completely removed from the bathhouse premises - this not only ensures cleanliness, but also protects health.
Therefore, an important element of any bathhouse that uses a stove using any type of fuel - coal, wood, gas - is the chimney. It is designed quite simply and in most cases you can make it yourself.

Choosing a chimney type

Material

The main materials for the manufacture of chimneys for baths are:

• brick;
• metal (steel) pipes;
• ceramic pipes.

Combined options are also possible - for example, a ceramic pipe is enclosed in a steel casing or inside brickwork a steel pipe passes through. Traditionally, chimneys were made of brick - simply due to the lack of other materials. However, metal chimneys are now quite widespread.
A brick chimney has time-tested advantages that have ensured its popularity:

1. It is significantly stronger and more durable than metal.
2. A brick chimney is safer in terms of fire.
3. The brick itself has good thermal insulation properties and also accumulates heat well.
4. It requires only bricks, cement, sand and water to make - making it more economical than other options.
5. If the stove in the bathhouse is brick, making a chimney from the same material is the best option.

However, brick chimneys also have disadvantages:

1. The construction of brickwork is a rather labor-intensive process that requires appropriate experience and skills. If you lack experience, it is very difficult to build a chimney with your own hands, and in this case, you may have to invite a specialist.
2. The inside of a brick chimney will inevitably be rough - and, therefore, will retain soot, which makes it difficult for smoke to pass through. In addition, soot accumulated in the chimney can catch fire. Therefore, a brick chimney has to be cleaned more often.
3. Brick structures have heavy weight- therefore, they need a foundation.

Metal chimneys are made from of stainless steel- other metals cannot withstand long-term changes in high and low temperatures, as well as the high humidity inherent in the bath. Their advantages:

• they accumulate less soot and are also easier to clean;
• they are easy to install (mount);
• Many companies produce ready-made metal chimneys, which you just have to assemble with your own hands in accordance with the instructions.

The main disadvantages of steel structures arise from the high thermal conductivity of the metal - it is desirable for them to provide reliable thermal insulation, especially in those places where the chimney passes through the walls of the bathhouse, the ceiling and the roof. In addition, it is necessary to carefully monitor the tightness at the joints that make up the chimney pipes.

A popular design of a metal chimney is sandwich pipes, consisting of outer and inner metal pipes, between which a layer of thermal insulation is laid.

The inner pipe must be steel, and the outer one can be made of any metal (although galvanized pipes for a bath are not recommended - they change their diameter when heated and cooled, as a result of which strength is lost and the tightness may be compromised). If it is not possible to purchase ready-made sandwich pipes, you can make a similar design yourself.

Steel and ceramic structures need a foundation only if their weight exceeds 750 kg - in most cases this weight is not achieved, which makes it easier to arrange a bathhouse.
Chimneys made of ceramic pipes combine the advantages of brick and steel:

• they are quite easy to install; like metal, ceramic structures can be assembled quite easily with your own hands, without turning to specialists;
• Ceramics, like brick, have low thermal conductivity, are fireproof, and accumulate heat well.

Internal or external?

According to their location relative to the structure, chimneys can be divided into

• internal - passing completely indoors;
• external - in this case, the pipe immediately from the stove goes outside the building, and the main part of the chimney is located outside.

The internal arrangement allows you to use the heat of hot smoke for heating
bathhouse premises.
External - greatly simplifies installation (this is important when building a bathhouse with your own hands), however, it requires additional thermal insulation to avoid the accumulation of condensation and soot in the pipe. This option also increases fuel consumption, since the chimney in this case “heats the atmosphere.”

Additional chimney elements

The best chimney is straight, without bends, and goes straight up from the stove. As a rule, this is how brick chimneys are constructed.
However, this is not always achievable for steel or ceramic chimneys: there may be obstacles in the pipe's path - for example, load-bearing beams- to pass a pipe through which it turns out to be impossible. And in any case, you have to make bends when external location chimney. In such cases, you have to run the chimney straight, then horizontally or at an angle to get around the obstacle, and after that straight up again.
It should be remembered: the total length of the horizontal and inclined sections should not exceed 1 meter - otherwise the movement of smoke will be difficult (as we know from a physics course, hot gas tends to rise and not go sideways). In addition, soot will accumulate on the horizontal area. The number of turns of the pipe should be minimal - as a rule, it can always be designed so that there are only one or two turns.
To connect pipes running vertically and horizontally (or at an angle), various options transitional knees. When choosing and installing an elbow for connecting pipes, you also need to take care of how to subsequently clean it - the elbow is one of those places where soot accumulates the most. More convenient in this case is a tee - a variant of an elbow, which has a removable glass (or a similar design) for cleaning.
The pipe connections must be absolutely sealed to prevent smoke from entering the room. To safely pass the pipe through the wooden ceiling and roof, pipes are used. The pipe is led to a hole cut in the ceiling, into which the pipe is inserted, and then brought out.
Since the metal pipe has considerable weight, it is secured with wall brackets every 2 meters. When the pipe is led out through the roof, a sealed roof cut must be installed, which prevents water from rain and snow from entering the bathhouse premises.

The outlet of the pipe must be protected by a “fungus” at the top of the pipe from precipitation getting inside.

What to consider when designing and installing a chimney

When designing and installing a chimney with your own hands, you must:

1. Select the correct pipe section. A pipe that is too narrow will not cope with smoke removal and will create smoke in the bathhouse. If the pipe is too wide, the smoke will pass through it too quickly, not having time to warm up the bath - as a result, more fuel and time will be required for heating. Depending on the power of the furnace, the pipe cross-section can range from 140 to 270 mm.
2. The best pipe shape is cylindrical. It provides better passage, is less dirty and easier to clean.
3. Choose a chimney location closer to interior wall baths - this will improve thermal insulation.
4. The overall height must correspond to the instructions in the stove data sheet. If you assemble the chimney yourself, but there are no such instructions in the manual, the height should be chosen at least 4.5 meters.
5. The pipe must be installed above the roof ridge by at least 50 cm.
6. The place where the pipe exits through the roof must be provided with reliable waterproofing.
7. It is necessary to provide for the installation of a gate (valve) to regulate draft.
8. Ensure that it is completely sealed to prevent smoke from leaking into the bathhouse. We must not forget that carbon monoxide contained in smoke can cause severe poisoning.
9. It is advisable to additionally protect the walls and ceiling near the chimney with basalt wool, copper sheet or other non-combustible materials.
10. In the place where the pipe passes through the ceiling, it is advisable to increase the thickness of the walls to prevent fire. Typically, the thickness of the walls increases by 5 cm. You can thicken the walls with your own hands by covering them with a layer of non-flammable material and enclosing them in a metal casing.
11. The chimney can be whitewashed or painted White color. This will not only improve its appearance, but will also serve as an indicator of tightness: the paint will darken in places where smoke penetrates.

And for clarity, a short video on installing a chimney in a bathhouse

Theoretically, the combustion of any fuel is accompanied by the release of carbon dioxide and water, but in practice this is far from the case. Insufficient combustion of fuel, even if it is ideal, results in the formation of soot and carbon monoxide. In addition, the combustion materials themselves are far from ideal and contain a large amount of impurities that will be added to the indoor air in the form of combustion products.

All this together will not only pollute the bathhouse and create a stench, but also threaten human life, since carbon monoxide is poisonous. Poisoning with it can have serious consequences and can even be fatal. Therefore, the real way out of the situation is a chimney. This is a fairly simple and useful device that provides natural removal of combustion products and access of oxygen to the combustion zone. In this article we will look at the main types of chimneys such as steel, ceramic, glass, sandwich. We will also talk about how to make a chimney in a bathhouse with your own hands step by step instructions and video. So, where to start?

Choosing a chimney for a bath: criteria

Choosing a chimney for a bathhouse is a rather serious undertaking. We can say with some confidence that choosing a stove is much easier. Market furnace equipment presented wide range goods, so choosing a stove will not present much difficulty. The chimney is a separate component, a complete system, to which increased demands are placed.

If the installation of a chimney is not treated with due responsibility, then a lack of rarefaction may occur in the smoke duct, or, as people say, reverse thrust. Which will prevent the removal of combustion products, resulting in smoke, which, in turn, can cause a fire. Therefore, the safety of your building, and effective work stove equipment directly depends on how well the chimney is manufactured and installed. Nowadays, chimneys are made of concrete, ceramic, steel, brick and even glass.

The chimney must be strong and durable. Be resistant to the influence of high temperature conditions when burning fuel, remove smoke at low temperatures, counteract the influence of condensation products, and also comply with fire safety regulations. Now it’s worth thinking about the option of a chimney duct. Will it satisfy the requirements set by the manufacturer of the already selected furnace unit?

Thanks to the development of science and technology, a significant number of chimney channels have been developed, but the classic of the genre was and remains a brick chimney. This option has long been time-tested and is still used to this day. But it was replaced by alternative devices made from new materials that had not previously been used in the manufacture of chimneys. For example, sandwiches, ceramic and glass chimneys. Now, before deciding on the choice of material for the chimney of the future bathhouse, you need to study the technical and operational indicators of the equipment that you decided to install. After all, when installing it, you need to take into account the internal cross-section of the chimney, its length and height. And what material to use for the smoke channel is another choice.

Material for the chimney in the bathhouse

Brick chimney

As already mentioned, brick used to be the main material in the manufacture of chimneys. The advantage of building a brick chimney has always been the low cost of the material. Construction was the most economical and low-cost. Sand and clay, water and brick are what have always been within reach. Unfortunately, in given time Finding a furnace specialist is associated with certain difficulties. And in a brick chimney, quality operation directly depends on the professionalism of the stove maker. Therefore, the price for the services of a qualified specialist has increased significantly. Rectangular section contributes to the creation of local turbulence in the smoke channel and leads to its clogging. It needs to be cleaned at least once every six months. However, if a brick chimney is built correctly, then this is a guarantee that it will last for many years. But a brick chimney is not always suitable for installation in a bathhouse. First of all, from the financial costs of installing it.

Steel chimney

The time of using brick as the only material for smoke ducts is over. An alternative solution was metal. The use of heat-resistant stainless steel in the arrangement of smoke ducts for a bath was a breakthrough in smoke exhaust technology. Two-pipe designs have gained wide popularity. They are two pipes different diameters with non-flammable insulation between them. The insulation protects the chimney from excessive condensation and its effect on the pipe. Such structures are called sandwich. As a rule, the outer pipe is made of either stainless steel or galvanized steel. Galvanized steel is more a budget option, which does not affect performance characteristics. The inner tube is made only of heat-resistant stainless steel with a thickness of 1 mm or more. When choosing a pipe, pay special attention to this parameter. Thermal insulator based on basalt rocks that can withstand high temperatures. Such smoke channels have a cylindrical shape, which makes them less susceptible to contamination.

Ceramic chimney for a bath

A new material that has recently appeared on the furnace equipment market is ceramic fireclay pipes. They have absorbed all the advantages steel structures. At the same time, they are characterized by the reliability and long service life of brick smoke ducts. They consist of an internal fireclay pipe, a heat-insulating layer of basalt rocks and an outer casing made of stainless steel or lightweight foam concrete. The price of such a pipe is much higher than steel chimney, but thanks to the long service life, the cost more than pays off. This material competes brick structures in terms of reliability, durability and fire safety. In principle, this is the same pipe; assembling it is as easy as steel sandwiches. Although in some cases it requires reinforcement of the foundation. There are special elements for assembling pipes into a finished structure. When purchasing a ceramic pipe chimney kit for your specific application, all of these elements and materials are included in the delivery. The cost of ceramic chimneys is approximately an order of magnitude higher than steel sandwiches.

Glass chimney

The ideal option for chimney systems is a glass smoke channel. This material has enormous advantages: absolute absence of corrosion, moisture resistance, low thermal inertia. But the cost of such chimneys is very high, and if you add the huge installation costs, then such material simply has not found distribution due to the enormous price. Although some optimists claim that glass chimneys are the future, and the time will come when all smoke channels will be made of glass.

I would especially like to dwell on chimneys made of asbestos pipes. This is a material that cannot be used for the construction of chimneys. It is carcinogenic and fire hazard. An asbestos-cement smoke duct can cause a fire in your bathhouse.

To sum up what has been said, we can come to the following conclusion:

· Chimney made of brick, labor-intensive installation, requiring certain qualifications of performers.

· Steel chimney from pipes - not expensive, but has a short service life.

· A chimney made of ceramic pipes is durable, but the cost is much higher than that of steel chimney structures.

· A glass chimney has virtually no disadvantages, but the price of the material and installation costs are expensive. Didn't get distribution.

· Chimney ducts cannot be built from asbestos cement.

The design of the chimney in the bathhouse

By location, smoke channels for baths can be divided into the following:

· internal, the chimney passes through inner space buildings;

· external, the chimney duct from the stove equipment is directed outside the room and passes through an open space.

The advantage of the internal location of the smoke exhaust is the use of the combustion waste temperature to heat the sauna room. This design facilitates the creation of draft in the chimney duct.

The external structure of the chimney facilitates the installation of the structure, but requires additional fuel costs, since the heat of the smoke heats the outdoor space, and not the bathhouse. In addition, there is an urgent issue about the formation of condensation and soot in the chimney duct. To avoid these problems, it must be additionally insulated.

Structural elements of the chimney system

The ideal design of a chimney duct in a bathhouse is a straight structure, running strictly vertically upward from the stove. This chimney is made of brick. A special feature of this oven is its location. As a rule, it is installed in the middle of the bathhouse structure, taking into account the location of the beams and rafters.

The advantage of steel and ceramic chimneys is the presence of additional elements. They allow the stove to be placed almost anywhere in the room, and if there are obstacles, they make it possible to design a chimney duct with a bend or a horizontal part in order to bypass the obstacles encountered.

But it is necessary to take into account that the total distance of the horizontal or inclined section should be no more than 1 meter. If this size is exceeded, it will negatively affect the operation of the chimney duct. Products of incomplete combustion of fuel will collect in the horizontal section, and the movement of smoke will be difficult. Maximum amount No more than two turns are allowed.

The connection of horizontal and inclined sections is ensured by the presence of various shaped parts of chimneys. When installing them, it is necessary to initially resolve the issue of further cleaning of the chimney. The knee is where soot accumulates. Here the output is considered to be an element such as a tee. The presence of a removable glass in it allows you to clean the chimney easily and without problems.

The tightness of the pipe joints not only ensures good traction, but also prevents smoke from entering the bathhouse. For safe and fireproof passage of the chimney through a wooden ceiling and roof, special pipes are used. A pipe is inserted at the intersection.

For fastening steel pipe, which is not light in weight, use wall brackets. Installation of fasteners is carried out at a distance of no more than two meters from each other. Where the chimney exits to the roof, a roof cut must be made to prevent precipitation from entering the bathhouse.

The entry of rain and snow into the smoke duct is prevented by installing a protective fungus.

Chimney design and installation

When carrying out the design and installation of a chimney yourself, you must:

1. Choose the cross-section of the smoke duct pipe wisely. Small size will not allow the complete removal of fuel combustion products. The wide cross-section will ensure the rapid passage of smoke, preventing the bathhouse from heating up. This will increase the time and amount of fuel spent on heating. The cross-sectional size of the pipe depends on the power of the furnace. Its indicator ranges from 140 to 270 mm.

2. The optimal shape of the chimney is round. Smoke passes through such a channel easily. It is less clogged and easier to clean.

3. If you place the chimney closer to the inner wall of the bathhouse, this will improve thermal insulation.

4. The height of the chimney duct is indicated in the stove equipment passport. But if the instructions do not contain specific dimensions, and you install the structure yourself, then you should install a chimney of at least 4.5 m.

5. The height distance from the roof ridge to the chimney head must be at least half a meter.

6. The smoke channel is equipped with a damper to adjust the draft.

7. As additional protection for walls and ceilings in the chimney area, it is recommended to use basalt wool, copper sheet or other non-combustible materials.

8. To improve fire protection and to prevent fire where the chimney passes through the ceiling, it is necessary to increase its thickness with non-combustible materials by at least 5 cm.

How to make a chimney in a bay with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

Chimney installation can be divided into several stages.

Stage No. 1. Preparatory.

Before you begin installing a chimney in a bathhouse with your own hands, it is necessary to protect the places where the smoke channel passes through the ceilings. This section will require the use of a special element called a through pipe.

Stage 1. We start by preparing the pipe. We place a layer of basalt wool along its outer surface.

Stage 2. Then we move on to insulating the inner surface. We designate the installation point on the ceiling and along standard sizes We are preparing a rectangular hole for the future smoke channel.

Stage 3. We install an additional insulating layer in the places where the pipe comes into contact with the ceiling, then install the pipe.

Stage 4. A minimum gap must be left between it and the smoke channel for additional heat removal.

Stage No. 2. Roof work

Now let's start cutting the roof.

Stage 5. Take dimensions from the outside and inside, not forgetting to take into account the slope of the roof.

Stage 6. Cut out from the inside of the roof required hole under the chimney.

Stage 7. We take galvanized sheeting, with a pre-made hole for the smoke duct, and attach it to the roof.

Stage No. 3. Installation work.

We propose to consider installation operations using the example of assembling the most popular dual-circuit system.

Important point! The chimney assembly is performed only from the bottom up.

Stage 8. We begin connecting the chimney from the stove. We connect the sandwich module to the special outlet of the oven. We do not insulate the area near the heating device, because the temperature in this place is too high. Regardless of the quality of the chimney material, due to maximum temperature conditions, this section will fail within a short time.

Stage 9. We insert each subsequent internal module into the previous one. Then put on the outer pipe. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the new module is connected to the previous narrow end. This will ensure that the condensate formed during operation will flow freely down the pipe and will not flow into the joints.

Stage 10. After installing all structural elements, we fasten the tees with the prepared fasteners and seal all connections with clamps.

Stage 11. Upon completion of work, remove protective covering and apply a fireproof sealant that retains its properties at high temperatures. And so, you built a chimney in your bathhouse entirely with your own hands!

Chimney cleaning

The bathhouse was built, the chimney was installed. You enjoy the delights of the bath ceremony. Like any device, the smoke duct requires maintenance. In our case, this is cleaning it. Over time, a layer of soot forms on the walls of the chimney, which impairs draft and can cause a fire, which in turn can lead to a fire.

The most common and in an effective way is mechanical cleaning. To implement it, you will need special rods, preferably dismountable ones with brushes, weights, and sometimes even a sledgehammer. This procedure is quite labor-intensive, and most importantly, dirty. Therefore, before cleaning the smoke duct, it is necessary to remove all things from the bathhouse premises and cover the walls, ceilings and floors with plastic wrap.

Another way to clean a chimney is to burn off the soot. To do this, you need to heat the stove with wood that creates good draft and intense heat, for example, aspen. This will cause the soot to burn out and be carried out in the form of ash through the chimney.

Recently, chemicals for cleaning chimneys have become increasingly popular. But they are no longer a means of cleaning, but preventive measure, to increase the time period between cleanings.

Mistakes during chimney construction

It is worth paying attention to a number of mistakes that are made when building chimneys by non-professionals:

• Use of unsuitable materials such as asbestos and aluminum. This may cause a fire.
• An unauthorized change in the diameter of the chimney can reduce efficiency or destroy the structure of the bathhouse.
• Combining several chimney systems into one.

Several more typical mistakes in chimney construction are shown in the video presented.

Sometimes it seems that you can quickly build a chimney in a bathhouse with your own hands, without anyone’s advice. But the construction of a chimney is quite a responsible procedure, requiring compliance with the rules, the availability of skills and the study of modern techniques. This will save you from mistakes, and the chimney you built in the bathhouse will serve reliably and for a long time.

The most difficult part of building a bathhouse is installing the chimney. People who do not have relevant experience prefer to order ready-made chimneys for sauna stoves, fortunately modern market there is a mass various variations similar products.

Nevertheless, a bath pipe can be made and installed independently; there is nothing complicated about it, the main thing is to correctly decide on the material and act in accordance with the instructions presented below.

Pipes for baths have a lot of classifications. For example, depending on the location, they can be external and internal. The first ones are mounted outdoors, which frees up a considerable amount of space and partially eliminates the possibility of burns.

Such bath pipes also have a significant drawback: you literally you will heat the street.

Chimney pipes for baths located indoors should be installed especially carefully, following all the rules. Installation of a chimney in a bathhouse, carried out with the slightest violations, can cause serious consequences: from fire to suffocation.

No less common is the classification based on the materials from which chimneys for bathhouses are made. It includes the following types of chimney ducts:

• brick;
• modular made of stainless steel, having one or two circuits;
• corrugated;
• ceramic;
• polymer, etc.

All types of bathhouse chimneys are described below. In addition to this, there is a lot useful information, which will certainly facilitate the installation of structures.

Types of chimneys and requirements for them

Chimney for sauna stove must meet a number of requirements. The slightest discrepancy can cause weak traction. Therefore, when installing a chimney in a bathhouse, you should pay attention to the following factors:

• The front side of the pipe must not be damaged. This may result in excessive condensation.
• The inner surface should be smooth. Various irregularities will contribute to the rapid accumulation of soot and burning.
• The chimney in the bathhouse is installed with your own hands or with the involvement of specialists not only in the vertical, but also in the horizontal plane. Thanks to this, heat literally does not fly out into the pipe, while each horizontal component the chimney duct should not have a length exceeding 1000 mm. Otherwise, the traction will be weak.
• Chimneys for sauna stoves installed through ceilings must be equipped with fire protection structures. For example, steel and ceramic chimneys are placed in special boxes.
• When deciding how to install a pipe in a bathhouse - through the ceiling or wall, you should not least think about the diameter of the pipe. It directly depends on the power of the furnace and, as a rule, varies from 100 to 350 mm.
• The part of the chimney duct located outside the building must be made of strong, durable materials that can resist aggressive environmental influences (rain, wind, snow, etc.). This applies to a greater extent to pipes installed outdoors. In such a situation, the pipe in the bathhouse through the ceiling and roof has more advantages, because only a small part of it is located outside the room.

We should not forget about the size of the chimney duct. For people who bought a stove produced at a factory, such a question is not so acute. After all, it already has an entrance for connecting the chimney duct. Thus, pipes of a smaller diameter cannot be used, and a larger diameter does not make sense, because this is an additional cost for the gearbox.

If the stove is homemade, then you can use an arbitrary pipe diameter, varying within the values ​​​​indicated above. High accuracy is unimportant here, as are complex mathematical calculations. Leave them to the specialists who design channels for the removal of combustion products in huge buildings.

This also applies to the height of the pipe. The main rule for its installation is that its outer part must exceed the highest point of the roof by at least a meter. Thus, having decided to make a chimney yourself, you do not need to go deep into calculations.

Having familiarized yourself with the basic requirements, you should think about how to remove the pipe in the bathhouse. There are three ways to install a chimney:

• On the foundation of a building or ceiling. The first method is ideal for people building a bathhouse from scratch, the second for those who decide to convert a room into a steam room.
• Above the stove. This chimney is suitable for owners of metal stoves.
• On the facade of the building, that is, through the wall.

Which chimney is better for a bath? Everyone must answer this question independently, comparing goals and means. The information presented in this article will certainly help you make the right choice.

Chimney made of steel pipe

Exiting a pipe through the roof of a bathhouse is a rather labor-intensive process, so the first thing you should consider is the option of installing a chimney through the wall. Any person can easily cope with such a task, even without relevant experience. To carry out the work you will need:

• three knees different sizes, which directly depend on the location of the stove (if the stove is located near a wall, then elbows of the following sizes are suitable: 200 × 1200 mm, 160 × 1200 mm and 160 × 100 mm);
• tee with plug;
• fungus that must be protected from water and debris entering the chimney.

Having stocked up with all the necessary materials, you should begin installing the chimney in the bathhouse with your own hands, the step-by-step guide is as follows:

• The first step is to carry out preparatory work. There is no need to pass pipes through, so preparation is reduced to drilling the wall. Taking into account the parameters of the taken pipes, the hole diameter should be 160 mm.
• Next you need to connect all the knees. Typically, self-tapping screws are used for these purposes.
• A fungus is installed at the top of the structure.

This type of installation of a chimney in a bathhouse is usually resorted to if the structure is temporary. Therefore, most people are interested in how to make a chimney in bathhouses through the ceiling.

This the right approach to solve the problem, because pipes laid along the street do not help warm up the room as quickly as possible. An alternative could be chimneys in the bathhouse through the wall, containing materials in their design that help retain heat.

Stainless steel chimney ducts with heat preservation systems in their design

The most popular is the pipe for a sauna stove, which helps retain heat and has a cavity filled with heat-insulating materials. Such chimneys for a bathhouse eliminate the possibility of burns and fires to a greater extent than saving heat.

Thus, installing pipes in a bathhouse eliminates the need to use additional fire-fighting materials when laying through wooden walls.

If main task is heat preservation, then you can use a chimney for a water-cooled bath. The use of such systems has many advantages:

• Firstly, chimneys for stoves in bathhouses become completely safe in terms of the possibility of ignition upon contact with flammable materials. In other words, there is no need to use fireproofing materials at the point where the pipe meets the wall.
• Secondly, the possibility of getting a burn is eliminated.
• Thirdly, the pipe for the stove in the bathhouse serves heating element, which eliminates the need to install a boiler.

Chimney pipes for baths made of stainless steel are a cheaper option. Their installation does not require special experience or additional knowledge, so installation can be carried out by anyone who can hold it in their hands. Building tools. The main thing is to take all precautions.

Chimneys made of ceramic materials

When talking about ceramic chimney ducts, ceramic pipes should be mentioned first. Their installation requires much less effort than the installation of brick structures, while cutting the roof is greatly simplified.

Ceramic pipes as a chimney have many advantages:

• they are able to withstand high temperatures;
• ceramic pipes are not afraid of corrosion;
• the smooth internal surface significantly reduces the possibility of soot and burning accumulation, so cleaning is required infrequently;
• Ceramic pipes are highly non-thermal conductive. Thanks to this, the heat does not escape into the street, and the possibility of getting burned is completely excluded.

Do not forget that installing a ceramic pipe does not require large-scale dismantling of the ceiling and roof. You just need to drill a hole for the pipe.

Chimney made of corrugated pipe

Corrugated pipe is often integral part chimneys for baths. In most cases, they replace the elbows connecting the horizontal and vertical pipes of the chimney duct. Thanks to this approach, you can save a lot of space.

Sauna stoves equipped with a chimney made entirely of corrugated material are a rarity. Despite the ease of installation, such chimneys have many disadvantages:

• Lack of necessary thermal insulation characteristics. Leaning against a corrugated pipe can cause burns. With prolonged exposure to temperatures above 900 degrees, the material begins to deteriorate.
• Corrugated pipes are easily susceptible to corrosion, which, coupled with high humidity in the steam room, leads to their rapid failure.

Only a temporary chimney can be made from a corrugated pipe. In this case, it is necessary to properly protect the ceiling-passage assembly from fire, otherwise the occurrence of a fire will only be a matter of time. This also applies to other places where the chimney comes into contact with flammable materials.

What material to choose for chimney installation

The choice of material for installing a chimney depends on many criteria. In this process, you should take into account everything: from what kind of ceiling-passage assembly you want to make to the type of stove. Ideally, a chimney for a bathhouse should meet the following requirements:

• Promote full combustion of fuel.
• Ensure high-quality heating of the furnace walls. In other words, heat should not escape into the pipe.
• There should be good traction. It is ensured by proper selection of the pipe diameter and the absence of horizontal parts of the chimney more than a meter long.

In addition, the chimney should be easy to maintain. Any chimney requires cleaning over time, so during installation you should assemble a structure that will not complicate this process.

Installation of a chimney for a metal and brick stove

Installing a pipe without connecting it to the furnace is a fairly simple process that anyone can handle. It is much more difficult to ensure that the chimney pipe is correctly connected to the stove. Correct installation as follows:

• First you need to install supports that have gaps, because the chimney expands when heated. An asbestos structure would be an excellent support for a chimney. This material is resistant to high temperatures.
• If the chimney opening of the stove is located in close proximity to the wall or the duct will not exit through the wall, then use supporting structures not required.
• The junction of the pipe and the stove must be perfectly finished. This eliminates the possibility of cracks and, as a result, smoke entering the room.

When thinking about how to make a pipe, some bathhouse owners do not know whether it is necessary. If you decide to assemble and install a chimney in a bathhouse with your own hands, then installing the valve will greatly complicate the process. If you buy a ready-made chimney, you can choose a model with a damper.

As a rule, this element of the smoke exhaust system is designed to retain heat after the fuel burns out; there is no such need in a bathhouse. If the valve plays an important aesthetic role for you, then you can make a passage in the pipe or use an additional bend.

Traditional chimney

A classic chimney is a system for removing combustion products.

This refers to the passage of a pipe through the ceiling of the bathhouse. It is called classic due to the fact that in the past exactly such smoke exhaust channels were built. If you are interested in a diagram of a brick chimney, then it can easily be found on the Internet, on numerous resources dedicated to construction. The diagram can also be found in specialized literature.

The advantages of installing such a chimney are as follows: low cost, durability and increased performance characteristics. Bricks can withstand both high and low temperatures. The rules for installing a brick chimney are quite complex:

• The first rule involves fire protection. It is provided high level fire safety. When asking the question: “How to properly make a brick chimney and take into account fire safety rules?”, you should remember that minimum distance there must be at least 380 mm between the chimney duct and the wall. In areas where the chimney passes through the ceilings, special extensions are created.
• The draft directly depends not only on what diameter of the chimney pipe is chosen. This indicator also depends on the height of the structure. Maximum draft and, as a result, heat transfer can be achieved if the pipe height is five meters.
• Fire safety directly depends on the thickness of the chimney walls. The thinner the wall, the more reliable and safe it is. Minimum thickness should be equal to 100 mm. Thus, if the diameter of the pipe is large, then coupled with a thick wall you can end up with a rather voluminous structure.

Based on the above, it becomes clear: before choosing a brick chimney, you should think carefully. Installing it may be too much for you.

Think about it, maybe it makes sense to make a chimney through a wall or ceiling using the above methods.

Rules for laying a brick chimney

Laying should begin at the top of the stove. A pre-installed pipe is installed on the stove. Brick laying is carried out as in the construction of walls, but there are a number of nuances:

• In order for the stove to provide heat properly and for the smoke to escape through the channels, you need to carefully monitor the level of the structure. Use measuring device needed after each laid out row.
• When building a brick chimney, just like a stove, it is necessary to use not the standard solution, which includes cement and sand, but add clay to the mixture. The proportions of the solution are: 2: 5: 1.
• The thickness of the solution layer should vary from 5 to 10 mm. An indicator equal to a centimeter is critical. If you exceed it, the masonry will collapse quite quickly;
• The joints between bricks must be carefully sealed. If this procedure is neglected, sparks may enter the room.
• Installation should be made exclusively from whole bricks. The use of quarters and halves may lead to the need to increase the solution consumption, which is unacceptable.

From the above, the following conclusion should be drawn: a brick chimney has a lot of undoubted advantages, but its installation is complicated by many factors. Therefore, it is unlikely that you will be able to install it yourself without having the appropriate experience.

Roof chimney trim

If the idea of ​​installing a chimney in a bathhouse through a wall does not suit you, then carefully study the types roof cuttings. This procedure is an integral part when installing a chimney made of steel pipes and other materials through the roof.

Cutting the chimney is a mandatory procedure. It guarantees safety, warmth and dryness in the room, so during installation you need to use any cutting method.

To choose the type of cutting, you should decide on a number of factors on which it directly depends. At the same time, you can decide how to insulate the pipe in the bathhouse. Factors influencing cutting are:

• the material from which the chimney is made;
• roof type;
• type of roof, etc.

Having made a pipe in a bathhouse through a roof made of sandwich panels, you need to use a metal cone for cutting, attached to an apron under small angle. This type of cutting is suitable for a chimney in a bathhouse for wood stove. Others can also be used as fuel. hard materials

Arrangement of a chimney in a bathhouse through the ceiling and slate roof involves the use of a lead apron. Thanks to its plasticity, it easily takes on the desired shape. Such work must be carried out immediately after installation. roofing material in its place. The pros and cons of using a lead apron are: reliable fit, ease of installation, against low melting point.

Round pipes and corrugated metal roofing are prerequisites for the use of polymer-based penetrations with a metal frame. The installation instructions for cutting are quite simple:

• in the cap, consisting of polymers, it is necessary to make a slot in size corresponding to the outer diameter of the pipe;
• Next you need to put the product on the pipe;
• the base sheet easily bends to the shape of the roof.

This type of cutting guarantees complete tightness of penetration through the roof.

Are drawings needed for chimney installation?

As a rule, installation of a chimney in various buildings requires advance preparation of drawings, indicating all the main components. Using the drawing, you can carry out installation step by step.

When installing a chimney in a bathhouse, there is no need for such difficulties. Everything is done much easier. The necessary data and instructions are given above. Using them, you can easily make a chimney for a bathhouse with your own hands.

The final stage of chimney installation

When all components made from optimal materials are installed, you need to check the functionality of the chimney.

It is better to carry out tests in the evening or at night. It is important that the ambient temperature is lower than the room temperature.

Otherwise, smoke will enter the room during kindling even if the chimney is working properly. A desirable, but not mandatory, condition is the presence of wind - the traction will be better.

Lighting the stove should be done carefully. A competent stove maker uses a minimum of fuel when carrying out such a procedure. This allows appropriate measures to be taken if the operation of the chimney piping is unsatisfactory.

If the ignition was successful and there is no smell of smoke in the room, then you should add fuel, choosing damp wood that produces more smoke. Well-insulated chimneys prevent smoke from entering the room. The opposite situation is a direct indication of a thorough check of the channels for installation inaccuracies and damage.

The smoke exhaust tract is mandatory element any bath. He is responsible for the speed of warming up the steam room, the cleanliness of the air in it, and fire safety. Therefore, it is necessary to approach the arrangement of the chimney as responsibly as possible.

Types of chimneys - making the right choice

Until recently, smoke exhaust pipes for baths were built exclusively from brick. There was simply no real alternative to this material. The brick is characterized by heat-accumulating and thermal insulating characteristics ideal for a steam room, long service life, maximum fire safety and excellent strength. But, unfortunately, build with your own hands brick pipe maybe not everyone home craftsman. Considerable knowledge and skills are required, as well as practical experience execution of masonry.

In addition, smoke ducts from bricks contain corners and a rough inner surface. This contributes to the deposition of soot inside the pipe, which leads to clogging and, as a result, to a significant reduction in draft. If the chimney in the bathhouse is not periodically cleaned (and this, believe me, is not at all easy), after a while it becomes impossible to use, and sometimes even unsafe. There is a risk of soot deposits igniting from sparks when lighting the stove.

More modern metal chimneys do not have these problems. They are often manufactured in the form of sandwich structures or in the form of ordinary single-wall pipes. Such structures are easy to install with your own hands. Their internal surface is very smooth, due to which the smoke comes out in a turbulent directed flow. The disadvantage of metal chimneys is the high probability of condensation forming in them. This usually happens when using a bathhouse in winter. The problem can be solved quite simply. It is necessary to select a pipe with a thick layer of thermal insulation. Then the risk of condensation will be minimal.

Having decided to make your own chimney in the bathhouse, you need to immediately choose the option of installing it. The path can be external and internal. Next we will talk about the advantages and installation rules metal pipe for both options.

Internal smoke exhaust duct - it will always be warm in the steam room!

With this installation method, the pipe is installed above the stove in the bathhouse, stretched to the ceiling, passed through the attic, and then through the roof. The height of the tract should correspond to the level of the roof ridge or be 0.5–1 m longer than it. In this case, high-quality traction is guaranteed. The main advantage of the internal chimney is that the thermal energy coming through the pipe from the stove heats both the steam room itself and the attic. As a result, the required temperature in the bath is achieved quickly and with low fuel consumption. Minus internal structure– labor intensity and complexity of laying pipes through the roof and ceiling.

You can correctly make a smoke exhaust duct indoors using a simple algorithm. First, draw a diagram of the chimney, focusing on the dimensions of the steam room. Decide on quantity and length the necessary details(turns, straight sections). Order the required metal elements for assembling a pipe in a hardware store. At the same time, purchase two sheets of metal with holes in the middle. You will place these products on the floor of the attic and on the ceiling in the bathhouse (from below). The diameter of the holes must correspond to the cross-section of the pipe used. By the way, it should be chosen as wisely as possible.

The pipe should have a diameter (internal) within 15–20 cm. A design with a smaller cross-section will not provide the necessary traction. If you take a pipe with a large diameter, the thermal energy will leave the stove very quickly and the room will not warm up well. The recommended height of the metal smoke exhaust duct is 5 m. Another piece of advice. Choose a pipe with a wall thickness of 1–1.2 mm. This product will serve you for a really long time.

Additionally, you will need to prepare a rubber seal (you will put it on the duct after bringing the pipe to the roof) and sealant for high-quality waterproofing designs. Step by step guide instructions for installing a metal chimney in a bathhouse are given in the next section.

We lay the pipe from the inside - labor-intensive, but reliable

The installation instructions for the internal smoke exhaust duct will be relatively simple, since the entire system is performed almost completely vertically. You need to assemble the chimney by placing its individual elements on top of each other. Moreover, if an ordinary pipe is installed, the assembly is carried out “by smoke” - the higher one is put on the lower part. But when using a sandwich system, installation is done “by condensation” from the inside and “by smoke” from the outside.

Important details:

1. 1. If the stove and chimney are located dangerously close to wooden walls, it is advisable to fasten several layers of heat-resistant products (for example, asbestos slabs) to the walls. Then they will never catch fire from excessive overheating.
2. 2. The joints between individual parts of the chimney should not be at the roof and attic floor levels.
3. 3. The connection areas of the tract parts must be coated with a sealed compound with a high heat resistance index, and then additionally secured with large-width clamps. Such special fasteners are sold in hardware stores.
4. 4. If there are noticeable gaps between the pipe elements, they should be insulated with asbestos cord. This seal must be carefully but firmly inserted into the gap.

The installation of the pipe itself begins with connecting its first element to the stove pipe. You should immediately install a damper - a special valve that allows you to regulate the draft. Then you need to make a square hole in the ceiling and assemble metal box with a through hole corresponding to the diameter of the pipe. We will pass the path through it to the attic. The height of the box is taken to be 0.4 m greater than the thickness of the ceiling surface.

Everything will go faster from here on out. Mount the box in the ceiling, fix it, and run the pipe into the attic. IN free space boxes, place stone mineral wool or expanded clay (medium grain material is optimal). In the attic, the box should be covered with a lid (you also need to make a hole in it). Cut a hole where the chimney passes through the roof and attach a sheet of heat-resistant asbestos to it from below. The pipe must be covered on top with sheets of mineral wool or asbestos to protect roof structure from fire. Pull a rubber waterproof cuff over the heat-insulated path in this way and treat the gaps with sealant. The work is completed!

External chimney - rules for quick installation

The external path is much easier to install. It is done faster and requires little labor, which is important when the work is done with your own hands. Such a chimney does not rise to the ceiling, but is laid in the bathhouse through the wall. To turn the pipe in the desired direction, use a special bend (a metal elbow with suitable angle bending). It is this element that is connected to the stove pipe, and then to the pipe that is led outside. To do this, use the box again.

A tee is installed on the outside of the bathhouse. It allows you to route the tract up, along the wall surface and down.

The pipe is secured with holders. They have a special shape and guarantee high-quality fixation of the structure. Outer pipe rises above the ridge by about 0.6 m. Its upper end must be covered with an umbrella (it is also mounted on internal chimneys), which will not let raindrops and small debris into the system. Seal the gaps between the wall and the pipe outlet with heat-resistant sealant.

As you can see, the outdoor structure is easy to install. It does not require punching holes in the ceiling and roof, eliminating the risk of floor leaks. But it also has a serious drawback - rapid cooling. For this reason, external systems are additionally insulated with mineral wool and other heat-insulating materials.

Choose a suitable smoke exhaust duct for the steam room, which you can easily build yourself. And enjoy relaxing bath treatments at any time.