How to make a plasterboard wall correctly. Construction of plasterboard walls in an apartment: interior and full walls. All about installing plasterboard partitions

However, starting to self-construction partitions, it is important not to lose sight of anything. After all, only in this case can you achieve proper quality and durability, avoid unnecessary worries during the installation process and save money.

Having decided on the place to build a plasterboard wall with your own hands, you can begin to create a list of materials and tools.

Having decided on the place to build a plasterboard wall with your own hands, you can begin to create a list of materials and tools. At this stage, you will need to make a number of measurements that will be needed in further calculations. Not only the height and width of the room where the partition is erected are important, but also the dimensions of the doorway and, if any, windows. Once all the dimensions have been recorded by you, you can arm yourself with a calculator and begin compiling a list of necessary materials.

After all, only in this case can you achieve proper quality and durability, avoid unnecessary worries during the installation process and save money.

Calculation of required materials

The basic list of materials is as follows:

• guide and rack profile;
• sealing tape;
• self-tapping screws and dowels for fastening the profile;
• drywall;
• self-tapping screws for fastening drywall;
• wooden beam to strengthen the profile around the doorway;
• heat-insulating material;
• sleeve for insulating electrical wiring.

Not only the height and width of the room where the partition is erected are important, but also the dimensions of the doorway and, if any, windows.

In order to prevent unnecessary expenses or the purchase of insufficient quantities of material, it is advisable to carry out preliminary calculations. With drywall everything is very simple: you need to determine the area of ​​the future partition. To do this, we multiply the height of the room by its width at the location where the plasterboard wall is installed and subtract the area of ​​the doorway from the resulting number. If a single-layer gypsum board sheathing is planned, then the result must be multiplied by 2, in the case of a two-layer one - by 4. For the wall, it is best to take standard sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm. Depending on the characteristics of the room, you will have to choose between simple and moisture-resistant plasterboard.

In order to prevent unnecessary expenses or the purchase of insufficient quantities of material, it is advisable to make preliminary calculations.

A guide profile is needed to connect the supporting part of the structure with the floor and ceiling. Based on this, we simply multiply the length of the future wall by 2 and get the required amount of profile. With a rack profile it is a little more complicated. The recommended distance between the racks is 60 cm, so you first need to divide the width of the room measured in cm by 60, thus finding out the required number of racks. The resulting number is then multiplied by the height of the room. To the resulting number, add two more wall lengths - these are lintels to strengthen the structure.

With drywall everything is very simple: you need to determine the area of ​​the future partition.

If the plans include a door, then the racks adjacent to the door must be strengthened using a wooden beam of appropriate thickness. An alternative to timber can be a reinforced thick-walled AU profile. The quantity is simple: the length of the two posts adjacent to the door plus the width of the doorway.

A guide profile is needed to connect the supporting part of the structure with the floor and ceiling.

Preparing the tool

In order to avoid any problems in the process of constructing a plasterboard wall with your own hands, it is necessary to prepare in advance the necessary tools for carrying out the work. You will need:

• roulette;
• plumb and level;
• metal scissors;
• construction knife;
• plane;
• screwdriver;
• grater.

Depending on the characteristics of the room, you will have to choose between simple and moisture-resistant plasterboard.

The key to success: correct marking and installation

The most important and crucial point in assembling the frame of the future partition is the marking. It's better to start from the floor. Then, using a plumb line, the walls and ceiling are marked. It is very important not to forget about several nuances:

1. When marking a plasterboard wall, you need to reference two walls perpendicular to it and average the indicators. Without doing this, you can end up with a room with visual curvature, because right angles are very rarely found in buildings and the wall opposite the partition can be oblique in relation to the other two.
2. The line you draw is a pointer for laying the guide profile; accordingly, the partition will protrude beyond this line by the thickness of the sheets of drywall, plaster and finishing material.

Working with metal profiles

Having finished with the markings, you can begin attaching the guide profile. Its installation is carried out using sealing tape. Fix the guide profile with dowels and screws. There should be an interval of no more than 50 cm between fasteners. The edges of the guide profile must be fixed.

The next stage of assembling the frame is installing and fixing the rack profile along the edges of the guide. Then the doorway pillars are installed facing each other. The distance between them should take into account the upcoming covering of the gypsum boards. Next, the remaining racks are installed, with the first of them located at a distance of 55 cm from the wall, the subsequent ones are placed at intervals of 60 cm.

Sheathing with plasterboard is not a difficult task, but it requires compliance with certain rules.

The distance between the posts is measured from their centers. It is recommended to first insert the supporting profile into the lower guide, then into the upper one. The racks are fixed only after checking its position with a plumb line or level. If there is a living space on the floor above, then it is advisable to use construction film when laying the profile. Its installation at the point of contact of two profiles will help to avoid the characteristic squeaking sound that occurs during a short-term increase in load.

The next step will be the installation of horizontal struts designed to strengthen the structure. To do this, you need to cut the profile to the required length, which is equal to the interval between the posts plus 30 cm. Then, on the base of the cut, marks are made on each side 15 cm from the cut line. After which the side of the profile is cut at an angle of 45 degrees, with a slope from the edge to the mark, and given it a U-shape. The workpiece is placed between the racks and fixed. The resulting ears are attached to the outside of the supporting profile.

The tightness of the sheets at the joint depends on the correct cutting.

The horizontal lintels of door and doors are installed in the same way. window openings. However, if they are planned round shape, then it is necessary to secure an additional spacer between the post and the lintel at the desired angle.

Communications

An important point when creating a plasterboard wall is the installation of electrical wiring. First, it is threaded into a protective metal or non-flammable plastic corrugated sleeve. Then holes of the appropriate diameter are made in the supporting profile in the required places. In this case, it is important to bend the edges of the hole to one side and bend it in order to prevent damage to the wiring. The wires are then pulled to the right points designs.

A layer of cardboard is cut along the outlined line with a construction knife, then the edge of the support is brought under the cut line, and the plaster is carefully broken off.

How to avoid mistakes?

Sheathing with plasterboard is not a difficult task, but it requires compliance with certain rules. So, in order to avoid the appearance of cracks as a result of subsidence, it is recommended to leave a 10-15 mm gap along the lower edge of the wall at the junction of the plasterboard sheets and the floor. And the screws are screwed into the gypsum board with a depth of 1 mm so that the head does not break through upper layer cardboard

ABOUT best option, if you do not plan to mount heavy interior items on the walls.

The tightness of the sheets at the joint depends on the correct cutting. Best result will be in the following procedure. After placing the sheet on a flat surface, measurements are taken and the border is marked with a pencil. A layer of cardboard is cut along the outlined line with a construction knife, then the edge of the support is brought under the cut line, and the plaster is carefully broken off. The sheet is then turned over and placed again with the cut line on the edge of the support. The second layer of cardboard is trimmed, but not all the way through, and carefully chipped away.

It's pretty durable material and even large sheets can be laid independently, the main thing is to do it without jerking.

Single layer covering

This is the best option if you do not plan to mount heavy interior items on the walls. At possible mounting points for wall lighting fixtures, it is necessary to reinforce the drywall with plywood or build additional spacers into the frame.

Then holes of the appropriate diameter are made in the supporting profile in the required places.

If you only have access to gypsum boards whose length is less than the height of your apartment, then this can be easily fixed without compromising the strength of the wall. When creating a wall with your own hands, you just need to take advantage of the experience of professionals. The space not covered by the sheet is sheathed in fragments the right size. In this case, it is necessary to avoid the coincidence of seams at the same level, so throughout the entire wall you need to alternate whole sheets and their fragments. That is, if in the first row a sheet is sewn from the bottom and a fragment is sewn on top, then in the next row there should be a fragment from the bottom and a whole sheet on top.

An important point when creating a plasterboard wall is the installation of electrical wiring.

All drywall joints must have a chamfer. If there is no thinning of the sheet towards the edge, then it must be formed using a plane. The edge of the sheet is thinned at an angle of approximately 22 degrees, but in such a way that at the cut line there is a decrease in thickness of no more than 4 mm. The edges of the gypsum boards adjacent to the borders of the wall, on the contrary, should be devoid of chamfer.

Double-layer sheathing

Double-layer plasterboard wall covering is practiced when it is necessary to install a high-strength partition. The rules for sheathing differ little from single-layer sheathing, with the only exception: the joints of plasterboard sheets in the bottom layer of sheathing do not need to be processed to form a chamfer. It will only be needed on the top layer sheets.

There should be an interval of no more than 50 cm between fasteners.

When covering the frame, it is also important to ensure that the seams do not match. To do this, the top layer is sewn offset by half the width of the sheet. In addition, it is important to increase the number of fixation points. Therefore, if with a single-layer sheathing it is sufficient to fasten with self-tapping screws at intervals of 25-40 cm, then with a two-layer sheathing it is necessary to fix it on the profile with an interval of 15-20 cm.

When working with gypsum board, avoid sudden movements.

Arch

If you want to make a door or window opening semicircular, you can bend the cut yourself required size. To do this, you will need a frame of the required radius, which can be made from scraps of the same drywall and bars.

The edges of the gypsum boards adjacent to the borders of the wall, on the contrary, should be devoid of chamfer.

Having prepared everything necessary, a fragment of gypsum board of the required size is cut off. Then one of its sides must be perforated using a needle roller and moistened with a sponge until a water mirror is formed. After this, the workpiece is moved onto a frame prepared in advance and smoothly bent. The edges are fixed and left in this position until dry. After an hour, you can remove the clamps and, if the workpiece does not feel loose to the touch, proceed with installation.

In addition, it is important to increase the number of fixation points.

First, the plasterboard arch is fixed in the center and edges, then self-tapping screws are screwed in at all points of contact between the plasterboard and the frame. When first securing the sheet, it is important not to tighten the screws further, leaving the head 1-2 mm above the surface. The caps are buried after completely dry leaf.

It is important to carry out all work at a room temperature of no higher than 15 degrees.

Thermal and sound insulation

An empty drywall wall is like a drum that does not store heat. Therefore, immediately take care of heat and sound insulation. The required amount of material is calculated based on the area of ​​the wall and the thickness of the profile. The choice of material depends entirely on your preferences and financial capabilities. Comparative characteristics the most common materials can help you navigate.

Having finished with the markings, you can begin attaching the guide profile.

Laying soundproofing material performed before covering the second side of the wall. It is important to compact the material, avoiding gaps between the frame and the layers of thermal insulation. Also, before installation, make sure that the electrical wiring is connected to all designated points on the wall.

Finishing

First, you need to lay a mounting grid along the joints of the gypsum boards and level the recess formed by the chamfers with the general level of the wall using starting putty.

The most important and crucial point in assembling the frame of the future partition is marking

It is recommended to strengthen the corner of the doorway using a construction corner. He is laid on starting putty and press tightly to the surface. Then the excess putty is removed with a spatula, simultaneously leveling the partition to the general level. It is advisable to treat the angle between the walls using a serpyanka.

In order to avoid any problems in the process of constructing a plasterboard wall with your own hands, it is necessary to prepare in advance the necessary tools for carrying out the work.

The last stage is the elimination of irregularities and roughness. To do this, you need to use finishing putty to treat all fixation points with self-tapping screws, simultaneously treating all cracks and chips that appeared during the work. When the putty has dried, it is important to smooth the surface using an abrasive mesh and floats. If you plan to paint the wall in the future or cover it with thin wallpaper, then you should definitely treat it with a primer.

When marking a plasterboard wall, you need to reference two walls perpendicular to it and average the indicators.

What you should pay attention to

It is important to carry out all work at a room temperature of no higher than 15 degrees. Even if you are working with waterproof drywall, take care to impregnate the surface with a waterproofing compound, at least in the area of ​​the joints. When working with gypsum board, avoid sudden movements. This is a fairly durable material and even large sheets can be laid independently, the main thing is to do it without jerking.

If the plans include a door, then the racks adjacent to the door must be strengthened using a wooden beam of appropriate thickness.

VIDEO: Drywall partition. Video tutorial. We do it ourselves. All stages

This sheet material is currently the most popular when facing internal partitions, and installation of a plasterboard wall is the simplest and most productive in construction. Therefore, it makes sense to consider what wall cladding with this material is in more detail.

The first action before the start of construction work is the layout of the premises. If you decide to install drywall to finish the surfaces, you should consider some points.

The standard dimensions of sheets of this material are 1200 - 1300 x 2500 - 4800 mm with a thickness of 6.5 to 24 mm. Moreover, almost each size is intended to perform its specific task.

To reduce the labor intensity of the work, reduce the consumption of fasteners and cut the material as efficiently as possible, these data should be taken into account when planning the room. For example, the ceiling height is considered comfortable at 2.5 meters, which corresponds to the size of the sheet. Often this parameter is taken to be 2.53, we will indicate the reasons below. Likewise, the width of the premises should preferably be a multiple of the whole number of sheets. Or a multiple of half the size, then the cutting of the material will be optimal.

When determining the size of the premises, it is also necessary to take into account the thickness of the internal walls and partitions, since this factor will also affect the cutting of the material. This means that we are moving on to deeper detail - to determining the dimensions of the sheathing and selecting materials for its manufacture. And behind each such detail lies the amount of labor intensity and financial costs.

Types of drywall

Based on the properties incorporated by the developers into such building materials, gypsum plasterboard is divided into the following types:

• ordinary drywall. It consists of a layer of gypsum dough and a cardboard coating on both sides, used for finishing rooms with humidity within normal limits. Widely used due to ease of use, good machinability, light weight and efficiency;
• GKL with fire-resistant characteristics. Convenient to use for utility rooms such as summer kitchens and others non-residential premises. Can be used near heating devices, stoves and fireplaces;
• moisture-resistant plasterboard, allowing its use in rooms with high humidity - baths, bathrooms, toilets and others. Thanks to the use of special additives, it is protected from the effects of fungus and mold. Ideal for finishing country houses, where humidity is usually higher compared to city apartments;
• fire - a moisture-resistant material that is almost universal.

According to their purpose, plasterboards are divided into the following categories:

• arched - with a thickness of up to 6.5 mm, allowing large deformations in several planes at the same time; such properties are also given to it by reinforcing additives of a fibrous structure;
• ceiling - thickness up to 9.5 mm, lightweight design;
• wall – for finishing walls and installing partitions, thickness 12.5 mm.

At this thickness, which is the most popular, the weight standard sheet 1.2 x 2.5 meters is 30 kg.

Tool for working with plasterboard

The material does not have high mechanical properties and easy to process simple tool. You can use this tool:

• saw - hacksaw for wood. Purpose – sawing plasterboard sheets into parts during installation;
• circular saw - for making long straight cuts when cutting;
• jigsaw – cutting out parts of complex shapes according to markings;
• construction knife – trimming the edges of parts after sawing;
• tape measure - measurements when marking and cutting;
• construction plumb line – control of the position of the sheet in space during installation;
• carpenter's level - the same;
• electric drill – drilling holes for fasteners;
• screwdriver - installation of fasteners when fixing plasterboard parts, assembling a frame from metal profiles;
• a set of spatulas, including narrow, medium, wide, angled metal and rubber;
• paint brush – for applying primer;
• foam roller - for the same purpose;
• drill attachment for stirring dry mixtures;
• sandpaper No. 4 or No. 5;
• container for stirring mixtures.

This is the main set of tools with which leveling, priming, and decorative finishing plasterboard walls.

In addition, you will need materials:

• primer - to strengthen the surface of the walls;
• acrylic putty – repair and surface preparation plasterboard boards to applying the main leveling layer;
• tape - serpyanka made of fiberglass;
• drywall fasteners – specially shaped self-tapping screws;
• insulation for laying under sheets of plasterboard during the construction of partitions for the purpose of insulation and sound insulation;
• GKL various sizes, including 6.5 mm thick – for creating spatial forms of parts; 9.5 mm thick – for ceilings; 12.5 mm thick - for wall cladding, up to 24 mm thick - for laying floor coverings with dry screed.

Assembling a plasterboard wall

To build a wall from this material, you will first need to build a base for it - metal or wooden frame for drywall. The choice of material for the wall is far from an idle question. Despite the apparent benefits of using wood, the developer faces many difficulties associated with the properties of the material:

• the need for antiseptic treatment of every part, which will help get rid of the risk of rot or fungal diseases. Fire protection treatment, especially if the frame will be laid inside hidden electrical wiring, which is what happens most often. In addition to processing wood, electrical installations must be placed in a flexible corrugated hose made of special materials;
• careful selection of material based on straightness and absence of helical deformations;
• change in dimensions of parts due to vibrations humidity conditions indoors, which is especially important for suburban buildings with periodic visits, which results in warping of the frame and swelling of the wall surface.

All these difficulties will inevitably require, in addition to material costs, also large quantity time.

Metal frames made of galvanized steel in the form of bent perforated profiles are free of all these disadvantages.

Several types are available, designed to perform various elements designs:

1. Ceiling profiles, designated as CD, with dimensions cross section 60 x 27mm.
2. Ceiling guide profiles CW 28 x 27 mm.
3. Rack-mount, UD – 50 x 50, 75 x 50 and 100 x 50 mm.
4. Guide profiles with dimensions of 50 x 40, 75 x 40, 100 x 40 mm.

The standard length of profile guides is 3 meters, ceiling and rack - 3 or 4 meters.

U-shaped straight hangers for connecting ceiling and CD profiles are produced as auxiliary parts.

In addition, you will probably need corner framing profiles and, possibly, arched ones.

A metal profile frame for a wall begins with marking its location. It is done on the floor and then transferred to the ceiling using a plumb line and a painting cord, which will ensure strict verticality of the structure.

The construction of a wall or partition must begin with the creation of a frame, using UW guide profiles and CW rack profiles.

Fastening the base parts must be done in increments of at least 60 cm.

When choosing the spacing of the racks, you should remember that the dimensions of the plasterboard sheet are multiples of 600 mm, so the racks are installed based on this parameter. Attention! At the location of the door on the floor, you need to break the frame.

• on one side of the frame you need to stretch a vapor protection film, for which it is used polyethylene film about 200 microns thick. It is pulled onto the frame and secured with construction tape;
• you need to understand how to attach a sheet of drywall. Important! To perform this work, self-tapping screws of a special design are used. These are the so-called “drywall screws”. Choose a length 1 cm greater than the thickness of the gypsum board sheet.
• Pay attention to the shape of the screw head. It allows you to attach the sheet flush without destroying the surface of the coating.
• similarly install the remaining parts of the wall cladding on one side, making a cutout for the doorway;
• the openings between the racks must be filled with insulation, which at the same time serves as a soundproofing device. Otherwise, the double hollow wall will act as a resonator, amplifying sounds. For this purpose they are used various materials, both slab (mini-slab) and roll, such as isover, the installation of insulation of more than 2 layers will entail the need to construct a three-dimensional frame. Insulation of walls and sound insulation will allow living to be quite comfortable;
• before sheathing the second side of the frame, you need to install a second layer of vapor protection, proceeding in the same way as for the first side;
• sheets of plasterboard are sewn over the vapor barrier with screws with a diameter of 6 or 8 mm. Their installation is carried out in increments of at least 250 - 300 mm. Therefore, it is not possible to perform this operation manually with a screwdriver; you cannot do without a screwdriver.

Attention! Cutting galvanized frame profiles must be done manually with a hacksaw and a broom. The use of a hand sander burns out protective layer, subsequently the metal in this place will actively corrode. After cutting, the end must be painted over with a special protective paint, 85% consisting of fine metallic zinc.

Leveling walls with plasterboard

Often during construction or renovation, planning the surface of a wall or partition is much easier to do using gypsum plasterboard than with plaster. Usually this is also done using a frame, when plasterboard is attached to the wall on a profile. Before attaching the profile to the wall, you need to determine the point of its closest location to the wall and install floor and ceiling guides. Then installing the racks will not cause problems, since all of them are already structurally distant from the walls.

As a result of the work performed, it turns out flat wall and all that remains is to prepare its surface for applying the finishing coat.

There is a way to level a wall with plasterboard without a frame. It should be noted that the quality of the base surface must be quite high. Before attaching drywall to a wall without profiles, you must carefully remove all protrusions that could interfere with it. Installation technologies can be like this:

• attach the plasterboard piece to the wall and drill the mounting holes. At the same time, on base surface there will be marks from the drill, which will be marks for the mounting holes;
• remove the part and use these marks to drill holes for installing plastic inserts;
• apply cement or cement adhesive to the wall gypsum base, level with a comb spatula. You can also use polyurethane glue;
• install the part in place, secure it with screws.

Knowing how to glue drywall to a wall, you can easily deal with the rest of the covering elements.

Surface putty

For final preparation of the wall plane under finishing coat it is finished with putty. This is done like this:

• primer with the recommended composition, gluing corners and joints with sickle tape;
• applying a primary layer of putty, sanding after drying;
• finishing the surface with a finishing composition of putty, drying, grinding;
• thorough cleaning of the surface of the walls and the entire room from dust;
• finishing primer of walls for final coating.

Knowing how to make a plasterboard wall, any developer can cope with this task on his own. You just need to use the information received here correctly.

At the same time, invited specialists will perform this work at a price per square meter from 600 to 800 rubles. However, in any case - good luck to you!

Unfortunately, today not everyone can afford to purchase spacious housing, but most of us still strive to create maximum comfort and comfort in what it has. Is there a way out of the situation when the number of rooms in the apartment is not enough to fully satisfy the needs of all family members? What if one room has to be used as a living room, office and bedroom? Despite the complexity of the question, the answer is quite simple - any living space can be divided into functional areas, dividing frame partitions, covered with plasterboard, and installing the door.

Anatomy of a plasterboard structure

Despite the features of the interior, your design concept, as well as the location and size of plasterboard partitions, all these designs, as a rule, have standard structure. Their basis is a rigid metal frame made of galvanized profile, which can be reinforced with a wooden beam at the installation point doorway. To increase the heat and sound insulation properties, the sheathing is filled with a special insulator, the choice of which depends on the characteristics of the room and the requirements for the structure. The assembled and insulated frame is sheathed on both sides sheets of drywall(GKL) - a reliable, environmentally friendly and easy-to-install material, completely ready for any type of finishing.

The profile frame is filled with insulation and sheathed with gypsum plasterboard sheets

Application area

Frame partitions covered with gypsum plasterboard are used to divide or zone space in rooms of various layouts and purposes. These structures are installed in production and office buildings, residential buildings and apartments, garages and outbuildings. The variety of types of plasterboard allows you to install partitions in rooms with high humidity and special requirements to fire safety.

Advantages

Frame structures covered with plasterboard sheets have long and with great success replaced partitions made of brick or wood due to a number of characteristic advantages:

• Properties of materials. A durable metal profile allows you to mount lightweight frames of partitions of any shape and size, without creating additional load on the load-bearing floors. The material is resistant to moisture, galvanized coating prevents oxidation and rust formation. Drywall is environmentally friendly pure material, specially treated to improve fire-retardant and moisture-resistant properties. It is easy to install, strong and durable, and its combination with stone wool, foam plastic or cork board enhances the heat and sound insulation properties of the structure. GCR differs perfectly flat surface, which has unlimited possibilities for decorative finishing.
• Fast and easy installation. Plasterboard partitions easy to install - even a beginner, “inexperienced” home craftsman in construction work can create them. Note that one of the advantages of these structures is the ability to change their location - the product can be easily disassembled and reassembled.
• Laying communications. The possibility of laying electrical wiring, water supply or sewerage pipelines inside the partition frame is another advantage of this design.
• Minimum costs. All elements that make up a partition covered with gypsum plasterboard are low in cost. When installing the product, no piles of construction waste and dust are formed and does not exceed permissible level noise and uses minimal energy.

Flaws

We will also definitely note the disadvantages of the design that need to be taken into account when making the final decision on its creation:

• The relative fragility of drywall compared to materials for capital construction(brick, concrete, wood). This parameter can only be increased by adding skin layers.
• Low resistance of gypsum plasterboard to heavy exposure to moisture. The material can be destroyed as a result of a leak “organized” by neighbors living above.
• Inability to attach massive shelves to the partition surface or wall cabinets. The design is capable of holding weight up to 70 kg per linear meter provided that the elements are attached to the frame parts, and the drywall itself can withstand no more than 15 kg.

Despite some shortcomings of gypsum boards, we note that competent creation and correct operation Partitions made from this material will help quickly, easily and inexpensively transform the interior of a room, giving it comfort and increasing its functionality.

Preparing for work

That’s it, this short “theory course” is over, let’s move on to the solution practical issues. First, we will consider the list of necessary tools, list the materials that we will need to erect the structure, and also perform an approximate calculation of their quantity.

Tool

To install a partition, you need to prepare a set of special, but quite common and simple tools:

• Tape measure, nylon cord, building level, plumb line, pencil - marking the location of the structure.
• Angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors - cutting profile strips into elements of the required length.
• A jigsaw (hacksaw) with drywall saws or a construction knife - cutting sheathing sheets to size.
• Impact drill or hammer drill - making holes in load-bearing floors for dowels for mounting the PN profile.
• Electric (battery) screwdriver - fastening frame parts and installing sheathing sheets using self-tapping screws.

To install the partition you will need a simple construction tool

Attention! To install the structure on the upper levels, you will need a durable stepladder. Work with metal profiles and drywall requires the mandatory use of personal protection- glasses or mask, thick gloves, respirator.

Materials

At self-installation The following materials will be used for partitions:

1. There are two types of metal profiles for mounting the frame: PN - “guide” (English marking UW) - attached to the floor, ceiling and load-bearing walls to form the outline of the structure. Also used when creating a doorway. PS - “rack-mount” (English marking CW) - is installed vertically to ensure the rigidity of the frame. Is load-bearing element sheathings.
2. Drywall for sheathing - covers the frame on both sides.
3. Insulation - fills inner part structure, increasing its heat and sound insulation properties.

1 - metal profile; 2 - material for heat and sound insulation; 3 - drywall

When choosing the main materials for the construction of a partition, you need to take into account its individual parameters and the requirements that it must meet. Let's look at this question in more detail:

• Profile. Standard installation of interior frame structures implies the possibility of using material with a base width of 50, 75 or 100 mm. The choice of this parameter depends on the height of the ceilings of the room - the higher they are, the wider the profile should be and the thicker the partition itself.
• Drywall. There are several types of material for covering the frame; the choice here depends only on the characteristics of the room. For example: when installing a partition in a bathroom, you need to use gypsum board - a moisture-resistant type of drywall, and creating curved and shaped structures will require the use of thinner sheets.
• Insulation material. It is selected based on the requirements for the partition and the characteristics of the room - when dividing a room into a study and a nursery, you will need a good sound insulator (cork board or dense foam), and to highlight the hallway area it will be useful basalt wool, excellent heat retention.

In addition to the basic structural elements, to create it you will need:

• Dowel-nails (6x40 or 6x60 mm) – installation of the profile to the floors.
• Self-tapping screws for metal (LB 9 or LB 11) – fastening frame elements.
• Self-tapping piercing screws for plasterboard (MN 25 or MN 30) – installation of sheathing.
• Sealing (damper) tape - a gasket between the guide profile and the main floors.
• Corner profile (PU) - strengthening the joint of sheathing sheets at the corners of the doorway.

The entire structure will be mounted using three types of fasteners

Expert advice: When purchasing everything you need, at the same time purchase materials for sealing joints between sheets and masking the areas where screw heads are screwed in on the surface of the sheathing - reinforcing sickle tape, primer for gypsum boards, finishing putty.

Measurements + consumables calculation table

To avoid unnecessary financial costs and eliminate the need for additional purchases of material, you should correctly calculate it required amount. There is no difficulty in this event - you need to measure the height and length of the proposed structure and determine its main parameters (profile width and number of cladding layers). Let's consider the calculation of the material, taking as an example a partition 5 meters long and 3 meters high with a doorway 0.8 meters wide and 2.1 meters high, with a frame made of a profile 75 mm wide and single-layer cladding with gypsum plasterboard sheets.

• Guide profile (UW). We calculate the perimeter of our structure (5 m + 3 m) * 2 = 16 m. Subtract the width of the doorway (0.8) from this value and get 15.2 m. It is known that the height of the partition is 3 m, therefore, we will definitely need two three-meter strips, which we will secure entirely, vertically to the load-bearing walls. We will cover the remaining length of 9.2 m with three four-meter profile strips (12 m), and the excess (2.8 m) will be useful for strengthening the frame at the location where the door is installed and installing jumpers between the posts.

  The UW profile that forms the outline of the structure is indicated in black.

• Rack profile (CW). Considering standard width gypsum plasterboard sheet (1.2 m), the vertical posts of the frame must be mounted in increments of no more than 0.6 m, so that the joints of the slabs are connected on one profile, and another element is located in the middle of the sheet.

  Frame posts should be mounted at a distance of no more than 600 mm from each other

• Knowing the length of the partition, we can calculate the number of racks by dividing 5 m by 0.6 and ultimately getting 8 strips 3 meters long (the indicator is determined in accordance with the height of the structure).

  The vertical posts of the partition frame made from CW profile are marked in grey.

• Profile for a doorway. At the location where the door is installed, we will have to move one post, reinforcing it with a strip of guide profile, this is constructive solution will also be applied on the other side of the opening. Thus, we will need another three-meter rack profile (CW) and two guide strips (UW) of the same length. To decorate the upper part of the doorway, a section of the guide profile 1.0 m long will be used.

  Two load-bearing reinforced pillars are highlighted in green, and the lintel (upper beam) of the doorway is highlighted in blue.

• Profile for jumpers between racks. To increase the strength of the frame, horizontal jumpers from a guide profile are installed between the posts at a height of 1.5 m. This will require another UW strip 3 m long and the excess that remained when calculating the contour of the partition.

  The jumpers made of UW profile are marked in blue, increasing the overall rigidity of the structure.

• Drywall. As a material for cladding we use gypsum board sheets (slabs) with a length of 3000, a width of 1200 and a thickness of 12.5 mm. To cover one side of the frame, we will need five sheets, two of which will be used entirely, and the remaining three will have to be cut to size. We calculate the drywall for the second side of the partition so that the joints of the sheets do not intersect, but are offset by half the sheet. This also requires five slabs - two full and three trimmed.

  On one side of the frame, the sheathing sheets will be arranged in this way

  The second side of the frame must be closed with the sheets offset by one rack or 600 mm

Expert advice: Double-sided installation of gypsum board sheets with offset joints will increase the rigidity of the structure, significantly reducing the possibility of deformation and reducing the likelihood of cracks on the surface of the material. If you need a more durable partition, use two layers of drywall when covering it.

Summarizing the calculations, we can conclude that to create a 5x3 m plasterboard partition with a doorway we will need:

• guide profile (UW–75) 3 meters - 5 strips;
• guide profile (UW–75) 4 meters - 3 stripes;
• rack profile (CW–75) 3 meters - 9 stripes;
• plasterboard (gypsum board 1200x3000x12.5 mm) – 10 sheets.

The number of hardware (fastening elements) is calculated based on the step of their installation. Maximum distance the distance between the dowels securing the guide profile to the floors should not exceed 500 mm, and self-tapping drywall screws are installed every 250–300 mm.

Engineers German company KNAUF is a world leader in the production of materials and technologies for frame construction- We have prepared a table that will help us when performing calculations.

* Please note that the quantity corner profile(PU) depends on the size of the doorway and is not related to the area of ​​the structure.

Attention! To simplify calculations when building a plasterboard partition, you can use a special online calculator that shows approximate consumption main material and all other components.

How to do it yourself: step-by-step instructions

So, all the important stages of preparation for work have been completed, let’s be patient, enlist the support of loved ones, get the approval of neighbors and begin installing the structure.

Expert advice: Any construction works with the use of plasterboard should be carried out at an air temperature in the room not lower than +15 C. It is better to install structures before finishing the floors and painting works. Before creating a partition, the surface of the main floors should be leveled, filling potholes, seams and cracks with putty.

Layout and marking

Before proceeding with the installation of the structure, we will determine the location of its installation and draw up a schematic plan according to which the markings will be carried out. This stage of work is as follows:

Attention! It should be remembered that the line we have drawn is a mark for attaching the guide profile. To determine the exact boundary of the structure itself, you need to add the thickness of the plasterboard slabs and its finishing layer.

Installation of sheathing

Having finished with the markings, we will carefully check the correctness of its application and proceed to production. metal frame our partition:

1. Using an angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors, we will cut pieces of the UW guide profile to the required length. We will paste a sealing damper tape on the back side of the blanks, which softens the sound vibrations and vibrations that will be transmitted to the structure from the main floors.

   The sealing damper tape will protect the structure from sound vibrations and vibrations

2. We secure the strips along the horizontal marking line, drilling holes for dowel-nails with a hammer drill (in increments of no more than 400–500 mm) and hammering fasteners with a hammer. Experienced craftsmen It is recommended to start with the top guide located on the ceiling, since it will be easier to “shoot” with a plumb line from there the correct installation of the floor profile.

   We drill holes for the dowel-nails with a hammer drill and hammer in the fasteners

3. We will install vertical guides, securing them to the load-bearing walls (with the same step) along the marking line and checking the correct installation using a building level. Note that the fastener metal profile To brick walls with a thick layer of plaster will require the use of longer dowel nails (6x60 or 8x60).

   When mounting the guides to the load-bearing walls, we check the verticality using a building level

4. Let's form doorway, installing reinforced profile racks in the marked location. Let's measure the distance between the lower and upper parts of the frame contour, be sure to subtract 10 mm from this value and cut two strips of the CW profile of this size. There are several options for strengthening the parts - you can insert the guide profile into the rack profile and secure it on both sides with self-tapping metal screws (every 150–200 mm) or strengthen the CW strip with a dry wooden beam, selecting it according to size, inserting it inside and also fastening it with self-tapping screws.

   We insert the rack profile into the guide and fasten the structure with metal screws

5. Let's install the reinforced rack into the floor guide of the frame, bring the top of the strip into the ceiling (here a 10 mm gap comes in handy), check the strict verticality of the element with a level and secure the part with metal screws. Let's mount the second rack in a similar way.

   When installing the rack, first install it in the lower guide, then carefully place it in the upper

6. We will set up the racks from the CW profile in increments of 600 mm, starting from any of load-bearing walls. The installation process of these elements completely coincides with the installation of reinforced racks - we cut the parts into strips 10 mm less than the distance between the guides, we check the verticality with a level, and fasten them with metal screws. Note that the step size of 600 mm should be in the middle of the rack profile, since it is at this point that the sheathing sheets, which have a standard width of 1200 mm, will be joined.

   The rack profile is attached to the guides with metal screws

7. Let's mount the horizontal lintel (upper beam) of the doorway. Let's cut a piece from the guide profile strip 200 mm longer than the distance between the reinforced posts. We measure 100 mm from each edge of the part and cut the side parts perpendicular to the base, leaving it intact. Carefully bend these sections inward and get a profile strip of the required size with blind ends.

   A wooden beam can be inserted inside the upper beam of the opening, further strengthening the structure

8. Install a jumper between the pillars of the opening in in the right place(we will take into account the height of the door block, as well as the possibility of further installation of the finishing flooring), check the horizontal building level and secure the part with self-tapping metal screws. This structural element can also be strengthened by any of the methods mentioned.
9. If the height of the room at the installation site of the partition exceeds 3 m, you will have to manufacture and install additional stiffening ribs - transverse jumpers between the racks. The parts are made similarly to the upper beam of the doorway and are attached to the CW rack profile with metal screws.

   Option for placing transverse lintels in a frame with a height of more than 3 m

10. Inside finished frame For partitions, we will install embedded elements made of profiles, strong thick plywood or timber, to which hanging cabinets, heavy mirrors and sconces can be attached. After this, we will install the electrical wiring, placing it in a special corrugated pipe, and also lay all the necessary communications and pipelines.

    Wooden beams need to be secured in places where heavy wall cabinets and other massive interior elements are installed.

At this point, the work on installing the frame is completed, you can move on to the next one, no less important stage creating a partition.

Sheathing the frame with installation of heat and sound insulation

In order for the structure to reliably store heat and protect peace from extraneous noise, its insides must be filled with special insulating material. Many years of practice show that an inexpensive but high-quality heat and sound insulator - mineral (stone or basalt) wool - is quite suitable for these purposes.

Plates from mineral wool reliably retain heat and also isolate the room from extraneous noise

Expert advice: In order to fill the frame of an interior room partition, purchase mineral wool slabs or mats required thickness- material of this form of manufacture is easily cut to size and conveniently placed between the elements of the sheathing.

Before installing a layer of heat and sound insulation inside the structure, perform the following steps:

1. Let's cover one side of the frame with plasterboard, starting with a whole sheet from the wall where the 600 mm pitch for racks from the CW profile began. Remember that when installing gypsum boards, you must leave a gap of 5–10 mm at the junction of the slab with the ceiling and floor. The material tends to expand with changes in temperature and humidity, and “blind” installation in a spacer can lead to its deformation and the appearance of cracks.

   Installation of the sheathing is carried out from a whole sheet from the wall where the set of racks began

2. We attach the cladding sheet to the profile by tightening the gypsum board screws around the entire perimeter in increments of 250–300 mm. We recess the heads of self-tapping screws into the drywall to a depth of 0.5–0.8 mm.

   The heads of self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the surface of the drywall

3. Using a jigsaw or knife, we cut the remaining sheathing elements to size and fasten them in such a way that the sheets are joined exactly in the middle of the rack profile.

   We join the sheets of drywall exactly in the middle of the profile

4. Having closed one side of the frame, we lay the insulating material inside, cutting it with a small allowance and inserting it between the posts.

   Place mineral wool slabs cut to size between the sheathing posts

5. We install the cladding on the other side of the partition, shifting the sheets by 600 mm (one rack) relative to the closed part of the surface - this method of fastening the cladding will significantly increase the strength of the structure.

   We close the other side of the frame with gypsum board, shifting the sheet by one rack (600 mm)

6. We will strengthen the joints and edges of the sheets in the place where the doorway is installed with a corner profile.

Attention! When installing gypsum plasterboard sheathing, remember that the sheet must be fixed around the entire perimeter - for fastening the extensions or parts custom size you'll have to insert additional elements profile into the frame.

Final chords

Having finished covering the frame of the partition, we insert into it door block and solve the issue of finishing the drywall surface. If a strict vertical line was observed when installing the opening, installing the block will not cause any difficulties.

The issue of finishing the cladding surface is also resolved quite simply:

Now the partition with the door is ready for any type of finishing - it can be wallpapered, painted, applied ceramic tiles or decorative plaster - it depends only on your imagination and financial capabilities. For more detailed information about the installation process frame structure, covered with plasterboard, we bring to your attention the following video.

Video: How to build a partition from gypsum plasterboard and install a door

Perennial professional experience shows that our fellow citizens are increasingly choosing plasterboard for the installation of additional load-bearing walls or interior partitions in your home. This material is easy to use and allows you to create such structures without resorting to the help of a team of builders, whose services are not cheap. We hope that now you can do this work yourself without any problems.

Since appearing on construction market plasterboard sheets, designers were able to create any complex shapes, including arcuate walls. However, before making a semicircular wall from plasterboard, you need to study in more detail the properties of this material and the sequence of work.

The process of creating a rounded corner using a wireframe

Before installing such an arched structure, you need to learn the basic rules for working with drywall:

• Rounded surfaces can only be created using a frame made of steel profile, it is better not to use wooden blocks in this case
• Plasterboard sheet is not characterized by high strength, so it is better to bend according to a pre-made template
• To create a large bend, the material must be wetted; in this form, small radius bends can be created.
• The size of the sheet should match the height of the wall being rounded, this will make the installation process a little easier

To avoid any unforeseen situations in the process of creating a semicircular plasterboard partition, you should prepare the necessary material in advance:

• Plasterboard sheets
• Metal profile of several types
• Self-tapping screws and dowels

In addition, any construction or finishing process is performed using a specific set of tools:

• Screwdriver or electric drill with attachment
• Metal cutting scissors
• Plumb line or building level
• Ruler and tape measure
• Rope or construction cord
• Marker or pencil

Work on creating a rounded corner from plasterboard is carried out in a certain sequence:

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Fastening drywall to a pre-rounded partition

To correctly answer the question of how to make a semicircular partition from plasterboard, you should understand that the quality of the process performed depends on proper preparation walls and plasterboard sheet.

Before gluing drywall, the wall must first be rounded. If the wall is made of brick, then outside corner knock down with a puncher and level well. WITH concrete wall proceed in the same way, but it should be taken into account that concrete is much stronger and there are reinforcing elements in it.

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To prepare the plasterboard sheet, you need to bend it. To do this, you need to make a template in accordance with the shape of the wall and choose one of the bending methods.

Dry bending

On one side of the plasterboard sheet, cut the cardboard, trying to draw the strips parallel to each other. The material is laid on the template, and the space created by bending between the parts of the sheet is filled with putty. The edges of the sheet can be pressed with bars to maintain its shape. The workpiece is left for 24-48 hours until dry. After this time, the material can be used for its intended purpose.

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Wet bending

With this method, one side of the sheet is rolled with a needle roller so that water can get to the core of the material. Then the sheet is moistened with water and left for 15-20 minutes to soften the gypsum in the middle layer. The workpiece is placed on the template, the edges are fixed and left to dry completely. This takes approximately 24 hours.

The use of this method has a limitation: the minimum bending radius is 30 cm. Therefore, to create more round shapes It is better to use the dry method.

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To glue the folded sheet, rounded wall plasterboard must be coated with a primer and dried. Then apply in separate strokes assembly adhesive on the wall, attach the workpiece to it and gently press it.

In the process of gluing the wall, you need to make gaps between the floor and the material of about 1 cm. This will allow air to circulate freely, creating optimal conditions for the glue to dry.

Using drywall even simple House master can make a rounded wall with his own hands. This is possible if you follow the installation technology, as well as with the correct application of the tips and recommendations of experienced craftsmen.