How to build a roof for a house. How to make a house roof with your own hands - a simple option for the home craftsman. Calculation of loads falling on the roof, selection of the optimal cross-section and arrangement of rafters

How to make a house roof with your own hands? It is to answer this question that this article was written. Everyone has known everything about insulating materials and roofing for a long time, for this reason, in this article we will focus on how to properly construct a frame for a roof.

Mauerlat for a gable roof

The Mauerlat is the base that takes on the bulk of the structural loads. To put it in plain language, the Mauerlat is the foundation on top of which the roof will be built. To arrange the base, beams with a cross section of 150 by 150 mm are used. They are installed in a parallel plane with the roof ridge.

The fastening of the Mauerlat beams must be extremely reliable; this is done so that the roof is not afraid of wind and weather disasters. Ideally, these actions are carried out even when the walls are being built. To do this, you need to lay the top four rows of bricks with thick wire. This wire is called wire rod, and its location should be with a meter gap.

The middle of the wire should be in the brick wall, and its ends, which hang freely, should have such a length that it is enough for subsequent tying of the beam. If the house design does not include plaster, then the installation of the outer edge of the wire should be carried out inside the mortar, so it will not be noticeable.

An important point is that the Mauerlat must deviate from the edge of the wall by at least 100 mm. To protect the beams from rotting, only a few layers are placed underneath them.

Strengthening the roof frame

When constructing a roof, a prerequisite is the construction of a reliable frame.
A frame is a rafter system attached to a mauerlat. It is necessary to take into account that if the length of the beams is more than 4.5 m, then additional purlins will have to be installed.

The optimal cross-section of beams used to build a roof frame in a brick house is 70 by 150 mm.

The rafters are fastened to the mauerlat using a special cutout, which is fixed using twenty-centimeter nails. Driving nails should be done according to the following principle:

• The first nail is nailed through the rafter to the mauerlat in a diagonal plane;
• The second nail is driven in exactly the same way, only on the reverse side;
• The third nail is driven in at a 90° angle from above.

This method of fastening the rafter system does not allow it to move from side to side.
The upper ends of the rafters are fastened with an overlap, one on the other. One beam, at its end, must overlap a parallel beam. In the upper part they are also fastened with nails, although bolts can also be used for this.

At this point, the work on arranging the frame can be considered completed, all that remains is to lay the roofing pie.

How to make a house roof with your own hands video tutorial

Everyone who builds a private house wants to save a little. This is how the idea of ​​making a roof with your own hands arises. And to do this, you need to correctly install the rafter structure and lay the roofing material, and each of these stages has its own nuances.

Types of structures

Today, roofing acts not only as protection for your home, but also as its distinctive architectural feature. Depending on the type of roof the house has, the overall impression of the facade is formed. For example, an attic roof makes the appearance of a house more conservative, while a used flat roof is built over modern cottages in high-tech, modern, and eco styles.

Flat

Despite their apparent primitiveness, flat roofs are the most difficult to construct. They are not very popular among Russian consumers, since they are associated mainly with Soviet-built high-rise buildings, but recently more and more people appreciate the convenience and functionality.

There are exploited and unexploited flat roofs. In the first case, the roof surface is used as additional functional space. So, here you can lay out a garden, install a playground, organize a gym, or adapt it as a terrace. In the second case, the roof is just a roof.

It is worth noting that the design of the unexploited version is much simpler, so for self-construction it is worth choosing it.

Flat roofs place a lot of stress on the walls, so you should not choose this model if you live in a frame house. In addition, it is advisable to consult with a professional so that he can draw up a project and make all the calculations. From a financial point of view, even if you contact a specialist, installing a flat roof is much cheaper than any other.

The biggest problem is removing snow from such a roof. In this case, it will have to be periodically cleaned manually so that the snow load does not become excessive for the structure. You will also need to organize a drainage system (the internal option is best for flat roofs). We must not forget that flat roof suitable for initially strong or additionally reinforced walls, otherwise the load-bearing walls may not withstand and crack.

Single-pitch

For full-fledged private houses, pitched roofs are rarely chosen. This is due to their low decorative qualities. Indeed, the lean-to structure looks unfinished. Therefore, it is much more common to see a pitched roof over a private country house, an extension or a garage. If it is chosen for a cottage, then it is most likely made in a modern style.

The first and main advantage of a pitched roof is its simplicity. Even a beginner can make a pitched roof, from drawing up a drawing to finishing. Complex calculations are not required here, you just need to know the basics of geometry. A pitched roof can withstand both snow and wind loads well. It is only important to install it correctly. As with a flat roof, savings are achieved due to the small amount of materials required.

One cannot help but mention the difficulties with ventilation. There is almost no free space under a pitched roof, so some difficulties may arise. It is practically impossible to make an attic under an ordinary pitched roof, as well as to allocate at least some space for an attic space. Most often, a pitched roof is used as an unusual ceiling for the upper floor, which imposes additional obligations on its insulation and waterproofing.

The most popular are designs with multi-level pitched roofing systems, which look much more unusual and futuristic, especially if the house itself is well integrated into the surrounding landscape and is made in modern stylistic directions.

Gable

Gable structures can be found much more often than single-pitch ones. This is due to their traditional appearance, which many residents associate with convenience and coziness. The construction of a simple symmetrical gable roof will also not take much time and effort and will be within the capabilities of even a beginner. However, financially, a gable roof is much more expensive than a shed or flat roof.

There is no need to maintain a gable roof: There will be no need to manually remove snow from it; at most, you will need to renew the paintwork from time to time. Another thing that speaks in favor of gable roofs is that they equally distribute the load on the walls. In the case, for example, with a single-pitch structure, more weight will fall on the “low” wall, while a gable structure distributes the weight between two parallel walls. In this regard, it can be erected over houses made of fragile, in the general sense, materials.

An example would be a frame cottage.

Before construction, it will be necessary to draw up a diagram or project, so that in the future the rafter system can withstand the weight of the roofing material. By the way, the rafter belt is made on the ground and only then transported to the installation site. Therefore, even not the strongest person can make such a roof, but professional builders still advise working on a gable roof with a partner.

With preliminary calculations and proper preparation, the attic space under the roof can be turned into an attic, but the decision to build an attic floor is best made at the design stage of the building and the roof in particular, since a number of requirements are put forward for attics (especially residential ones).

hip

This type is one of the most popular. The four-slope design with two triangular slopes and two trapezoidal slopes is comfortable, functional and beautiful. The big advantage is that you can organize a spacious attic here - even after the roof is built. To do this, you will need to carry out some insulation and insulation work, but you will not need to dismantle the roof: everything can be done from the inside.

All hip roofs can withstand heavy snow and wind loads. The structure has four stiffening ribs, each of which carries approximately the same weight, which is why the structure acquires similar strength. There is another reason to choose a hip roof: with this type, you can make large eaves overhangs along the edges, which will protect the walls from rain or snow. Due to the fact that all overhangs are in the same plane, they are less destroyed, since they are all exposed to the same influence of negative environmental factors.

An important advantage lies in the aesthetic side: a house with an attic under a hip roof looks more harmonious, not so elongated upward.

The disadvantages include the difficulty of constructing a roof of this type and the high cost. It will require not only significant financial investments, but also quite a lot of time. It will not be possible to make such a roof alone - you will definitely need a whole team. If there is an attic under the roof, and the windows are located directly in the roof itself, then water can leak through them if the installation was not carried out completely correctly. The solution would be to cover the windows from the outside, but this is impractical.

Half-hip

Half-hip roofing began to be popular in our country not so long ago. In appearance, it is very similar to the classic hip one, but has one difference, which is that the end slopes do not fall to the level of the Mauerlat, but remain slightly higher, as if opening part of the wall. As a result, you can make windows in a flat wall through which water will not leak.

The most popular are gable half-hip structures, but four-slope ones can also be found. It is worth keeping in mind that it is impossible to make a four-slope semi-hip yourself: you will need a correct plan, a project with all the calculations.

Compiling something like this requires special knowledge and skills.

Half-hip roofs have all the same advantages as hip roofs. An additional advantage is the presence of walls in which you can make windows or organize access to a balcony. Much less materials will also be required for construction. However, the time spent on construction will increase noticeably, since the design of this type of roof is more complex.

When planning and designing, it is also necessary to take into account the type of roofing material, since it directly affects how rigid the rafter system should be. In addition, it is necessary to keep in mind that the rafter system will have more components. The process of laying the finishing material will also become more complicated.

Tent

The hip roof is also a popular hip roof, but it differs significantly from the hip and half-hip roofs. Here all four diagonals converge at one point, which is the peak of the roof. The design can be flat or high. It depends on climatic features: wind direction and strength, amount of snow, etc. Since the structure of the roof is similar to a tent, it got its name precisely because of this.

An important advantage is that there is no need to construct gables. Thus, you can save a significant amount of building materials and time, thereby spending less money on construction. Another advantage is the low risk of leakage. Due to the pyramidal structure, precipitation easily rolls off the roof without stopping. On the other hand, this shape of the roof contributes to its uniform heating, so in the summer months you can use the attic or attic as a living space without worrying about additional heating. Finally, there is no need to install drainage here, since water will drain from the roof without touching the walls, thanks to the wide overhangs.

There are also some nuances. Thus, a hip roof is quite difficult to design on your own, since it involves a special structure of the rafter system. Building a rafter frame with your own hands is also not easy: there are many connections that must be highly reliable and rigid. Thus, the need to hire specialists leads to the fact that a large amount of financial resources will be spent on construction. It is also necessary to keep in mind the fact that there is a high risk of delamination of the finishing material (for example, tiles or slate).

Conical

A cone-shaped roof is often called a round roof due to the fact that it consists of many edges, as a result of which, from a distance, the base appears to be round rather than polygonal. This type of roofing is not typical for typical cottages. The conical structure can be found above mansions or castles, and also as part of a roofing composition with a bay window. The cone-shaped pattern gives the building an interesting fairy-tale look, distinguishing it from all other houses.

The positive qualities of the structure include its earthquake resistance. Thanks to the many stiffening ribs, as well as the rounded shape, such a roof will withstand any wind and snow loads, as well as earthquakes or other similar disasters.

Unfortunately, such roofs have more disadvantages than advantages. So, you cannot make a window in the roof itself. This is due to its shape, which tapers upward, as well as aesthetics: windows in a cone-shaped design do not look very attractive, spoiling the whole look. Another disadvantage is associated with this - the inability to organize an attic, because the insufficient level of illumination is a significant drawback. Construction materials will require much more than other roofs. We are talking not only about the rafters, but also about the finishing roofing material. The design and construction itself are quite complex, so you will need to hire specialists with the necessary knowledge.

Attic

This name summarizes several options for roofing structures, but an important factor is the presence of an attic space under the roof. We are not talking about an ordinary attic space, but about a full-fledged attic. It has a number of requirements, one of the main ones being the height of the ceilings. Here it should be at least 2.5 m. The ceiling may be lower, but low ceilings should occupy up to 50% of the total space.

A mansard roof can be installed both at the planning stage and after construction is completed. Of particular interest are residential attic rooms, which cannot be organized under all roofs. So, it is problematic to place one under a single-pitched or double-pitched structure, but all hipped roofs imply the conversion of the attic into an attic in the future.

It is worth keeping in mind that some roofs do not necessarily need to be insulated right away. Sometimes it is possible to insulate and waterproof the roof from the inside when the need arises.

Another distinctive feature is the windows. If the attic was taken into account at the planning stage, then there may be built-in windows in the roof, lying in the same plane with it or specially attached, similar to birdhouses. It is undesirable to do without windows completely, so it is recommended that when converting an attic into an attic, there should also be windows there.

Keep in mind that roof windows are several times more expensive than ordinary ones, since they, like the roof, must prevent water and drafts from entering the attic.

Complex

A roof with a complex structure is the most interesting, but it is also problematic to build it yourself. This is due to technical difficulties: you need to correctly calculate the load on the rafters, on the mauerlat. If the calculations are carried out incorrectly, there is a high risk of roof collapse or wall cracking.

As a rule, complex roofs are built with the aim of expanding the usable area of ​​the house: under such a structure you can place a full-fledged attic room, or even two. In this case, the roof is insulated and prepared in advance, so that in the future you do not have to deal with it from the inside. A complex roof is not easy to process without completely disassembling it, since there are many joints, joints, and corners.

The advantages of complex roofs include their attractive appearance. It is always possible to design a structure so that it is fully consistent with the surrounding landscape. Among the disadvantages, complexity comes first. It is almost impossible to make such a roof on your own, so you will have to hire a team of professionals. In addition, an impressive amount of materials will be required both for the construction of the rafter system and for covering the roof.

All the variety of types of roofs will allow you to choose the option that is ideal for your cottage or home. You need to calculate your budget and strength in advance, and also pay attention to the surrounding environment - not every house will fit harmoniously. For example, a flat roof requires a modern landscape around it, while a conical roof requires as traditional a landscape as possible.

Preparation and tools

At the first stage, it is necessary to carry out all the preparatory work, prepare all the necessary materials and tools. The list can be called standard. So, you will need mastic and sealant, end and cornice strips, a construction knife, a trowel, a hammer and a roofing mop. All these tools are suitable for laying soft roofs, because this type can be installed alone.

First you need to strengthen the existing rafter system. If you do it yourself, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the design features of the form you have chosen. In the vast majority of cases, the rafter frame is assembled on the ground, after which it is moved upward and attached to the Mauerlat. For reinforcement, you can use plywood, OSB boards or tongue and groove boards. Please note that plywood is not suitable if the attic or attic space is residential, since the material is highly flammable and releases toxic substances when heated.

It is better not to carry out work in winter. If it turns out that the installation is carried out in winter, then do not forget to leave compensation gaps of 3–5 mm between the seams so that the layers do not become deformed during expansion. In addition, you need to thoroughly treat all wooden parts with an antiseptic to prevent the appearance of microorganisms or molds .

This treatment will significantly delay possible rotting of the rafters, especially if you do not carry out the waterproofing quite correctly.

To build a truly high-quality roof, you need to follow some recommendations:

• When transporting materials intended for roofing, make sure that they do not bend or become deformed. This is especially true for easily bendable options such as corrugated sheets.
• If possible refuse mechanical loading, since rigid slings can deform some materials. Use soft slings or the manual method.
• Don't forget about drainage systems. It is necessary to decide in advance whether the internal drainage system will be designed or external. The design of the roof directly depends on this. For example, if you choose a flat option, you need to make a small slope towards the outer edges with an open drainage system or a small depression in the center with internal water drainage.

• When working with each of the finishing materials its specifics must be taken into account. For example, metal tiles or corrugated sheets are attached to the roof with dowels in places where the waves deflect, while soft materials can be attached anywhere.
• All installation work is carried out from top to bottom. This applies to both the reinforcing layer and the finishing layer. It is necessary to attach one sheet at a time; they are also transported upstairs one by one.
• The finishing of the ridge is done last. The material here should be overlapped to avoid moisture penetration in the future. It is the ridge joints that are the most vulnerable to water.

Sequence of work

It should be remembered that everything starts with design. It is the plan that is the fundamental condition that allows us to build a truly high-quality and beautiful roof in the future. So, it is necessary to clarify the dimensions of the roof, its height, the presence of windows, as well as the orientation of the roof. Remember that the orientation relative to the cardinal points is selected depending on the prevailing wind direction. The project must be drawn up according to all the rules, so that in the future you can avoid unpleasant surprises during both construction and operation.

If necessary, before starting work, it is necessary to install a reinforcing belt. It will slightly strengthen the walls and the Mauerlat, thereby removing some of the load from them, and it will be possible to choose a more weighty roof.

Reinforcement is relevant for not the most durable houses, for example, frame houses.

Check and process all available materials and tools. If something is missing, it is much easier to add to the list at the preparation stage than after the work itself has begun. Check materials for integrity and suitability. If there is any doubt about the quality, it is best to replace the part. The reliability and tightness of the roof largely determines how warm and cozy the house will be, so it is important that everything is of the proper quality.

After all preparations are completed, you can proceed directly to construction. Step-by-step instructions are given below.

Construction: technology

The easiest to construct is the gable structure. It is most often done with your own hands, without the help of professional craftsmen, so it makes sense to consider it.

Rafters can be hanging or layered. In the first case, the rafters rest against the side walls, as if serving as spacers, as a result of which the impact increases. To relieve the load, the rafters are additionally connected to each other by an additional beam called a tie. This helps reduce stress.

The layered version assumes the presence of a load-bearing wall in the middle. Another ceiling is created above it, against which the side slopes lean. It turns out that the load is distributed evenly between all three walls. However, most often there is a combined case, when part of the structure is layered, and part is hanging.

Please note that the rafter system is completely assembled on the ground, and only then installed in its rightful place. The rafters are attached to the Mauerlat, securely fixed (usually using metal brackets). First, the outer elements are attached, and then the intermediate ones. Once the main elements (legs) are securely installed, you can attach everything else.

Protective layers: installation order

The cushioning layer must be made in full accordance with the specified sequence. Failure to comply with the order will lead to the roof leaking, letting in heat and drafts, and the rafters rotting.

• There must be a high-quality vapor barrier under the rafters. An ordinary vapor barrier film will do, which will prevent condensation from getting on the insulation and wooden parts.
• Next they are laid directly rafters.
• Next they put insulation. Please note that it is much more convenient to work with insulation in slabs, since it can simply be laid between the rafters without fastening, and it will hold securely. Also consider using foam insulation, which has the best heat-retaining properties.

• A layer of waterproofing is placed on the insulation. Experts recommend using a new material – a waterproofing membrane. It will protect against moisture without trapping condensation formed due to the collision of hot and cold air. The membrane is attached to the rafters using slats.
• Place on top of the slatted sheathing roofing material.

Please note that when installing it yourself, the need to use high-quality materials increases many times over, so that if something happens, it is possible to neutralize the consequences of minor mistakes. As for insulation, pay attention to mineral wool, but do not use glass wool if you plan to have a living room under the roof.

Finish coating

A huge variety of materials can be used as the final roofing covering. Today there are many forms and types: some are suitable for warm climates, others for more severe ones; some can be installed manually, while others require the use of special equipment. However, each of the popular options has its own individual advantages and disadvantages.

All roofing materials are divided into two large types: soft and hard. In the first case, they are easy to bend, adjusting to the desired shape. In the second case, the material is made in the form of panels, which are subsequently lifted one at a time and mounted on the roof in their original form. Both of them can be cut; only for soft materials a construction knife is used, and for hard materials a hacksaw is used.

Before you cover the roof, you need to decide which type is most suitable for you. Keep in mind that when working alone, it is best to use soft varieties, while pair or team work allows you to easily transport large panels to the top without damaging them. In both the first and second cases, it is better to prefer machine transportation: there is less risk of accidentally damaging the sheet, dropping it, or splitting it. We remind you once again that It is better to choose soft cables, as they will not put pressure on the roofing slabs and will not scratch them.

Types of roofing materials

As mentioned above, roofing materials are divided into two broad categories. The most common is bituminous shingles, which are classified as soft materials. The big advantage of this option is that it is suitable for all types of roofs, including even complex and cone-shaped ones. When installing, you won’t need any professional equipment - you can get by with the set of tools that every owner has.

As for performance, soft bitumen shingles have established themselves as a reliable material that can withstand pressure changes, exposure to precipitation and sunlight, and also has excellent decorative properties.

Slate is popular among sheet materials. Despite the fact that it is fragile and easily cracks under strong impacts, it withstands environmental influences very well. It is also important that slate is very inexpensive, so it is chosen when building country houses or on a limited budget. It is worth keeping in mind that the heat and sound insulation qualities of slate leave much to be desired, so if possible, for a house in which people will live all year round, it is better to choose a more modern analogue.

Finally, The most worthy and at the same time expensive material is metal tiles. It greatly outperforms others in terms of aesthetics. Such a roof will look expensive and presentable, while the material will not lose its properties for many years. Metal tiles can last about fifteen years, while maintaining their original appearance. Unfortunately, there is one drawback here - poor sound insulation, so it is advisable to take additional care of this.

Mounting methods

It would seem that the finishing coating can only be attached with dowels or self-tapping screws, but in reality it turns out that these methods have to be abandoned. This is especially true for soft roofs. Thus, soft roofing materials are usually attached using the fusion method, also called the hot method. This approach ensures complete tightness, but many problems arise during operation.

For example, a common cause of a poorly executed attachment is environmental conditions: it may be too humid, too hot or too windy. It is also important what characteristics the roofing material itself has.

To ensure maximum quality of work, they are carried out mechanically.

When choosing a screw fastening, care must be taken to ensure tightness at the puncture sites. For this purpose, specialized grouts are used. Some particularly resourceful owners choose polyurethane foam, but professionals strongly do not recommend adhering to this method, since the foam is absolutely not intended for this, and the roof will soon leak.

Regardless of which method you choose, pay attention to the uniformity of fastening of materials: with the hot method, the seams must be smooth and beautiful, and when using screws, each of them must be carefully sealed. Such precautions will protect you from hasty repairs.

Corrugated sheet

Corrugated sheeting is a sheet material. With its wavy structure it is similar to slate, but this is where all the similarities end. Corrugated sheets are classified as metal materials. The sheet is fully processed, covered with various layers to prevent corrosion.

For the roofing, special sheets of corrugated sheets are used, which are a modern analogue of the iron roofs that were so popular in the past. It is worth mentioning separately that corrugated sheeting is ideal for designing pitched roofs, but it is not advisable to use it for complex round structures.

The material has both its advantages and disadvantages, which are worth talking about in more detail. It should be noted in advance that there are many more advantages.

Advantages and disadvantages

The main reason why many choose corrugated sheeting is its cost. It is quite low compared to analogues, but corrugated sheeting is not inferior in performance properties. Another plus is the abundance of color options: you can find almost any shade in the product line. The most popular colors are brown, dark green, burgundy, and gray. A corrugated roof does not burn and does not emit toxic substances into the atmosphere, which is why it is considered environmentally friendly. The service life is also impressive: such a roof can last up to 50 years, depending on the quality of the material.

As for the shortcomings, there are few of them. Many are alarmed by the simplicity of the material: it does not seem particularly interesting.

Another drawback is poor sound insulation: rain drumming on such a roof will thunder throughout the house - you will need to spend additional money on insulation and soundproofing work.

Characteristics and Features

Arranging a roof from corrugated sheets takes very little time and effort. No wonder this material is considered one of the easiest to install. To carry out installation correctly, you need to remember some nuances:

• It is best to select corrugated sheets that fully match the size of the roof slope. Then you will be able to close it without resorting to joining the elements.
• If it was not possible to select the panels according to the size of the slope, they resort to joining short elements: the sheets are laid overlapping by 15–20 cm, fastening them with self-tapping screws at each such joint. Silicone sealant is suitable for insulation.

Roof installation is a multi-step, complex process. To independently install and assemble a rafter system, you will need to thoroughly study the methods of connecting elements, select the necessary materials, and calculate the angle of inclination and length of the rafters. Step-by-step instructions will help you make a roof with your own hands.

Roofing device

Having chosen a design for a gable roof, we proceed to design. You can create a project with drawing documentation yourself, if you have computer skills and knowledge of architectural programs (for example, ArchiCAD.) If you don’t have them, it’s better to seek advice and help from a professional. You can delegate all project work to specialized organizations.

You need to know the structural elements and materials for its construction in order to understand how to make a gable roof with your own hands.

A standard gable roof consists of the following elements:

Choosing a rafter system

When deciding how to make a gable roof, you should choose what the rafter system will be. A hanging rafter system is chosen when the distance between the external walls is no more than 10 m and there is no load-bearing wall in the middle. With this system, the upper ends of adjacent rafters are sawn at an angle, connecting them with nails. The installation of beam ridges and racks is excluded. From below, the rafter legs rest on the external walls. The absence of racks allows you to use the attic space for arranging an attic. The function of tie bars is often performed by floor beams. To organize the upper structure, it is recommended to install the tie from the ridge at a distance of 50 cm.

It is more justified to equip a layered rafter system if there is a supporting central wall. A bench is laid on the wall and support posts are attached to it, and a ridge beam is nailed to them. This installation method is economical and easy to implement if the ceilings in the interior are designed at different levels. The attic is divided into two halves by a brick wall.

The assembly of the rafter system begins with the installation of the Mauerlat strictly horizontally. Before you begin installation, you must carefully check the walls to which it is attached. If necessary, they are leveled with cement mortar. Work can continue when the solution reaches 50% strength.

Depending on the system, the Mauerlat can be a board measuring 50*150mm or a beam with a section of 150*150. It is attached to the top row of the wall masonry. In a wooden structure, its role is played by the upper crown.

If the walls are made of aerated concrete or foam concrete, a reinforced concrete reinforced belt must be made on top of the last row to redistribute the load. Embedded fasteners - pins or wire - are embedded into it. A board or beam is placed on them.

There are several ways to connect the Mauerlat and walls:

The distance between the wire (studs) should be less than 120 cm. Under the Mauerlat on the wall, cut-off waterproofing must be laid: hydrosols lm roofing material rolled in two layers. Can be coated with bitumen mastic.

Installation of rafters

First, you need to decide on the required cross-section of construction legs. This value is calculated depending on the distance between the rafters and their length. It is important to consider the use of insulation. The distance between the rafters should be such that there is no need to waste time and effort on cutting the insulating material.

There are several types of rafter systems (more than a dozen). Having chosen the one that suits you best, you should make a template from thin boards for notches, cuts and other details. Often the first mold is made on the roof, then a template is made from it.

The assembly procedure varies depending on the type of rafter system. Sloping rafters are installed gradually. They are assembled from elements on the roof. It is very convenient in this case if the ceiling beams and rough attic flooring have already been laid.

For a hanging rafter system, the truss is assembled on the ground. It consists of a triangle of rafter legs and a tie with all the posts and struts. First you will need to draw up a drawing, calculating the connection angle and the length of the rafters. Typically the roof angle is 35-40 degrees. However, in heavily blown, open areas it is done less - 15-20 degrees. To determine the angle of connection of the rafters, you need to multiply the angle of inclination of the roof by 2.

The length of the rafter legs is calculated based on the connection angle and the length of the run between the external walls. Taking into account the eaves overhang(50−60 cm wide), it is most often 4−6 m.

The upper ends of the rafters are secured in different ways:

• end-to-end;
• overlap;
• with cut grooves.

They are fixed with bolts or metal plates. Next, install the upper and lower ties.

Having collected the required number of trusses, they are lifted onto the roof and attached to the Mauerlat. The outer trusses are attached first. The rafters are aligned vertically using a plumb line, adjusting the length of the overhang. The truss must be strengthened with temporary timber jibs so that it does not move during the installation process.

Having secured all the trusses, a board with a cross-section of 50*150mm, 20-30 cm longer than the cornice, is nailed to the upper edges of the slope. The same work is carried out on the other side of the roof.

Roof insulation

When thinking about how to make a gable roof, you should pay due attention to heat and vapor barrier. Parallel to the ridge girder, rolled material is rolled out and attached to the rafters from the inside. The joints are overlapped and sealed with tape.

The space between the rafters is filled with insulation from above- mineral wool.

To protect the thermal insulation from moisture, under-roof waterproofing should be installed. It is nailed to the outside of the rafters or secured with staples.

Manufacturing of sheathing

The final stage in the construction of a gable roof is the construction of the sheathing. To do this, use dry timber without knots and cracks. The sheathing bars are nailed to the bottom of the eaves. Two boards near the ridge are attached without a gap. To check the strength of the lathing, a person weighing 70-80 kg can stand on it. If done well, the grille will not bend.

Boards for sheathing a gable roof are selected depending on the type of roof:

The next stage is covering the rafter system with boards. They are stuffed starting from the roof eaves perpendicular to the slats. The sheathing pitch depends on the angle the slope of the slopes and the type of roofing. The larger the angle, the greater the distance between the boards.

Having completed the installation of the sheathing, they begin to sheath the overhangs and gables. The gables are covered with boards, clapboard, plastic panels, corrugated sheets or waterproof plywood. It depends on personal preference and financial capabilities. The sheathing is attached to the side of the rafters using self-tapping screws and nails as fasteners. The lights are also hemmed with different materials, from siding to wood.

The roof of a house is one of the main components of a house. It represents the upper structure of the building, without which it is difficult to imagine comfortable living. The main functions of the roof are protection from snow, rain and other precipitation, as well as heat retention in the cold season and protection from overheating in the summer months. Nowadays, there is a wide variety of roofs to suit every taste and budget. However, the most common and popular at any time are gable roofs, which are versatile, inexpensive and easy to install. We’ll talk about how to properly make a gable roof with your own hands in today’s article.

The gable roof design is the most common in private construction. As is clear from the name of this type of roof, it is made in the form of two slopes or, more simply, in the form of a triangle. Such roofs are easy and quick to install, they are quite durable and their appearance finds many admirers, as it combines the look of a Russian hut and a modern building. Having the necessary knowledge, you can do it yourself using available tools.

Construction of a gable roof rafter system

The rafter system of a modern gable roof consists of many elements, each of which evenly redistributes the weight of the structure and correctly transfers it to the walls of the house. The figure below shows the design of a gable roof of a house with its main components and elements of the rafter system.

Let's look at each of the elements shown in the diagram separately:

• The rafter leg is the main part in the design of the rafter system of a gable roof, which is an inclined element laid across the entire roof. To create it, the strongest beams are selected, since the rafter leg, in addition to the weight of the roofing material and sheathing, can bear the weight of precipitation in the form of snow;
• Mauerlat is the so-called “foundation” of the roof, which is the main support for the entire structure, distributing the load on the walls. It is a beam or a thick board on which the rafter legs rest and which serves as a “gasket” between the wall and the roof;
• Tie (tie) - a spacer lying at the base of the triangle, enhancing strength. The tightening performs a double function, since the ceiling is mounted to its lower part;
• Purlins - ridge ones are attached in the upper part, side ones in the center of the rafter legs. The purpose of the purlins is to keep the rafter legs from falling and “folding”;
• The stand is located in the central zone, directly under the ridge. Serves as a support, transfers the load to the tightening;
• The bench is an additional element on which the stand rests;
• Lathing - boards that are mounted across the rafters. The sheathing is designed to lay roofing material on it (in the simplest case) and to provide additional rigidity to the entire rafter system.

This roof scheme is universal for many buildings, but depending on the complexity of the structure, special elements can be added here to give stability and rigidity to the entire rafter system.

The angle of inclination of a gable roof

Choosing an acceptable roof slope angle is a significant task, but for many builders it fades into the background, which is not true. The so-called gable structures with straight slopes are considered standard. The optimal angle of inclination of a gable roof is on average 30°-45° (the angle at the base of an isosceles triangle is taken as the basis).

The choice of inclination angle will determine how well the upper part of the house will withstand the following factors:

snow pressure;

the weight of an individual object on the roof, for example a person.

The first two points must be taken into account with special care, since a miscalculation in choosing the slope of the roof can cost large financial losses and health in the event of a collapse.

Example: the greater the angle, the less the load on the roof from precipitation, but the threat of wind damage increases due to the created windage (the roof can simply be blown away). The noise effect will also increase if metal is chosen as the roofing material.

• Roll materials: the number of layers is pre-calculated. The more there are, the lower the roof can be made. Double flooring - from 10-15°;
• Stacked elements: these include tiles (including soft ones) and slate. The angle of inclination of the rafters can be adjusted from 20°;
• Metal tiles: a slope of 14° should be maintained;
• Corrugated sheets: its sheets should be placed at an angle of 12°;
• Ondulin: it is allowed to adhere to the indicator from 6°.

Thus, when designing a roof and choosing the angle of inclination, it is important to know in advance what roofing material you will cover it with. As you can see, the minimum angle of inclination of a gable roof can be 6°.

Types of rafter systems for gable roofs

Most rafter systems for gable roofs are divided into two main types - hanging and layered. The first type is the most common. Let's look at both types in detail.

Hanging rafter system for a gable roof

This type of roofing structure is used exclusively when the walls of the house are located at a distance of up to 10 m from each other and there are no supporting floors between them. The rafters (legs) are connected only to the side parts of the house in the form of a mauerlat. The disadvantage of a gable roof with hanging rafters is the possibility of its damage due to the thrust load, since in this case there are no braces between the rafters.

Layered rafter system of a gable roof

The difference between layered structures is the presence of additional support in the form of a wall or other support. The layered rafter system is installed with supports that are attached to the intermediate walls. This design allows you to cover large spans without compromising the rigidity of the entire rafter system.

Separately, it is worth talking about several more types of gable roofs. By design, a gable roof can be made in the following options:

• symmetrical gable roof;
• asymmetrical gable roof;
• gable sloping roof.

The differences between these designs are clear from the name. Depending on the design of your house and design decisions, the roof may be asymmetrical, that is, have different angles of inclination at the base. Such a roof is a little more difficult to install than a conventional symmetrical roof, which has an isosceles triangle at its base, but it will not be difficult for an experienced craftsman to erect such a structure.

The gable sloping roof is also very common. The rafters of such a roof seem to be slightly broken at the base. Such roofs practically do not retain precipitation and allow you to benefit from attic space.

Often, novice builders, before designing and calculating the purchase of material, have questions about how to find out the length of the rafters of a gable roof. To do this, it is important to know at the design stage what the width of the building will be in order to select rafters of a standard size, so that you do not have to splice them together, sacrificing their load-bearing capacity. At the same time, you must not forget about the angle of the roof. All of these factors will ultimately influence the length calculation.

So, to calculate the length of the rafters of such a roof, you need to divide the triangle formed by the rafter system into two right triangles. Further, knowing the width of the building and the angle of inclination of the roof, you can determine the height of the ridge of the gable roof. Knowing the two legs of a right triangle and using the Pythagorean theorem, we can calculate the hypotenuse of each right triangle, which is the required length of the rafters of our roof.

As a result, to determine the final length, another 30-50 cm must be added to the obtained value to ensure roof overhangs.

All calculations carried out to determine the height of the ridge (also known as the height of the pediment) and the length of the rafters are clearly shown in the image:

From all of the above, we can conclude that a gable roof is the cheapest and most versatile type of roofing for a private home. There are examples when, using improvised means, people erected a gable roof on their own alone. But we still advise you to use the help of specialists in such matters, because a well-made roof over your head means comfort and coziness in the house.

Designing a gable roof structure for a house

The first and fundamental stage in the construction of a gable roof is its design. We have already said that the choice of the angle of inclination of the roof will determine the load perceived by the roof, and, as a consequence, the choice of roofing material that can withstand precipitation and the loads from this precipitation and wind.

At this stage, design drawings of the future roof are created and all necessary calculations are carried out. This is necessary, first of all, to have an idea of ​​the general appearance of the roof and its dimensions, as well as to take into account all the expected maximum loads.

After the design, you will have in your hands the entire package of documents, which will indicate all the dimensions of the future roof, its area for the purchase of roofing materials, and the full range of lumber used in the construction. Having a list with the nomenclature of lumber will allow you not to spend extra money on its purchase, since lumber is the main expense item when building a roof.

After all design work has been completed, they proceed directly to construction work. When doing the work yourself, you save half of the budget that could have gone to paying builders. In this case, it is important to remember to comply with all norms and rules so that the final result meets expectations.

Construction of a gable roof step by step

Installation of the Mauerlat of a gable roof

The Mauerlat takes on the entire load from the roof and transfers it to the walls, so a fairly thick and strong beam is chosen as the Mauerlat. The thickness is chosen based on the thickness of the wall on which it rests. As a rule, they tend to choose the thickness of the mauerlat beam equal to or close to the thickness of the wall.

The Mauerlat must be laid flush with the outer part of the wall, firmly connecting them together. To connect the Mauerlat to the wall, anchor bolts or wire are laid (poured into the reinforced belt) even at the stage of wall construction. If wire is used as fastening, then after laying the timber it is tightly tied with this wire around and remains firmly fixed in this form. If anchor bolts were walled into the wall, through holes are pre-drilled in the mauerlat, with which the beam is placed on the bolts and tightened from above with nuts and wide washers.

It is also important not to forget to lay a layer of waterproofing material in the form of a gasket between the wall and the Mauerlat. As a rule, roofing felt or similar materials are used as waterproofing. More information about securing the mauerat is described in this video.

After the base has been prepared, they begin to assemble the rafter system of the gable roof. Installation of rafters can be done in several ways: install the rafters directly on the roof or perform some structural elements on the ground and then lift them to the installation site using special equipment. Correctly placing the rafters on a gable roof with your own hands without the help of a partner is quite problematic, so it is better to get help so as not to make a mistake and not nullify all your efforts.

To make it easier to attach the beams, it is worth marking the attachment points on each wall and connecting the opposite walls with beams (beams), on which racks will be installed to support the rafters. A ridge beam is installed on the racks, which serves as a guide for installing the rafter system. In order to connect the rafters as accurately as possible so that the entire skeleton of the rafters is the same, templates are used. This way you can avoid dips and distortions in the roof.

After installing the ridge beam, they proceed to the most important part - the installation of rafters (already fastened together or separately). It is important to constantly monitor the level and evenness of the installation. The rafters are fastened together, usually with nails or using iron staples. Common schemes for placing rafters on a gable roof and attaching them to each other are shown in the figure below.

After completing the roof frame, it is necessary to install auxiliary fasteners to improve the rigidity of the roof. To do this, install struts and middle skates.

We invite you to watch a video that clearly shows how to install rafters with your own hands for a gable roof.

Sheathing a gable roof in the simplest case involves installing transverse boards on the rafters for laying roofing material on it. But, as a rule, modern roofing is a more complex pie of various layers.

After installing the sheathing, the roof is covered with a layer of waterproofing, the layers of which are mounted overlapping each other, and the joints are fastened with tape.

The next step is to secure the counter-lattice - strips fixed at an angle of 90 degrees to the main sheathing. This is necessary to provide a ventilated gap in the roof pie to get rid of moisture.

At the final stage of installation of a gable roof, the roofing covering is laid, the choice of which, as mentioned at the beginning of the article, depends on several factors, including the financial component

External work on installing the roof ends with the installation of gables, if they are not part of the walls. After this, they move on to interior finishing work and, if necessary, We will talk in detail about roof insulation in the following articles.

It is worth noting that building a gable roof with your own hands is not so difficult, the main thing is to make the calculations correctly and follow the instructions step by step so as not to miss important points during installation.

A brief video instruction on installing a gable roof is presented in the video:

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To save money, owners of country houses prefer to do some of the construction work themselves. How to make a roof in a private house is a question many developers ask. But before carrying out work, you should study all the information about roofs. You need to know what roofs exist, familiarize yourself with their shapes and design features. It's no secret that these elements perform many functions. The range of their characteristics is not limited to protecting the interior of the house from the penetration of moisture, cold air currents and snow. Our article will tell you all about the features of roofs, and will also describe in detail the construction of the roof.

Roof installation of a private house and its types

Modern construction has found application for various types of house roofs. Of course, each type requires an individual one. Let's talk about the most common ones, as well as their advantages and features.

DIY roof of a private house: preparation

In addition to choosing the type of roof, think about what material will be used to cover it (more details: ""). Based on this, the parameters of the rafter system are determined. The weight of the roof covering affects its pressure and loads. Therefore, it is important to resolve the issue with the method of fastening the roofing elements. Finally, it is worth deciding on additional parts of the rafter system.

The best option for calculating the material for the rafter system and roofing is to have a roof drawing. The diagram usually indicates all the fastening points of the rafter system. They, in turn, strengthen the elements.

The roof made of ceramic tiles has the greatest weight. The rafter system and foundation (+ walls) must take into account the weight of this material. Coniferous wood is most often used for the rafter system. At the same time, its humidity should be no more than 20%. The wood should not contain knots or blue stains.

Tools for arranging the rafter system:

• vapor barrier material;
• waterproofing film;
• insulation material;
• iron staples;
• self-tapping screws, nails, screws;
• roofing tools.

How to build a roof for a private house: rafter system

The design of the rafter system involves supporting the lower end of the rafters on the mauerlat. In this case, the upper end rests on both the ridge and the opposite rafter. As a result, trusses are created. They are connected using a ridge beam or two boards that form a ridge. To strengthen the rafter legs, special struts, struts, jibs, braces and crossbars are installed. All these elements make the rafter structure quite rigid and durable.

When installing a gable roof, the first two structures of the rafter system (triangles) must be assembled on the ground. Only after complete assembly can they be lifted onto the roof. Spacers are used for temporary strengthening. Then, the elements are connected using ridge beams or boards on both sides. Next, the remaining rafter legs are installed. For the convenience of workers, floor beams are usually laid on the mauerlat. Temporary flooring must also be present.

To fasten the rafter system, not only mortises and notches are used, but also iron staples, metal corners, screws and nails. The rigid frame of the rafter system will be provided by struts, crossbars, ties and stops. Sometimes it becomes necessary to lengthen the rafter legs. In this case, the first step is to splice two rafter boards. Short pieces are installed at the joint on both sides.

Roof structure of a private house: sheathing

Having finished installing the rafters, you can fill the sheathing. To arrange it you will need boards (2.5 cm thick) or bars. The sheathing can be either continuous or have gaps. But before that, waterproofing should be laid along the rafters. When creating a living room in the attic, it is best to insulate the roof in advance. The insulation is installed in the space between the rafters. The material can be mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

To create a “warm” living space in the attic, lay insulation in a double layer. The thickness of one layer should not be less than 50 mm. The insulation layer helps absorb noise from outside the room. A vapor barrier membrane is laid on the insulation. It protects the material from the formation of condensation on it. To avoid spending extra money on repairing the roof of a private house, follow all the instructions and recommendations. Try to lay the layers of the roofing pie correctly.

Roof arrangement

Perhaps the main stage of all work. Arranging the frame with roofing material is a very important procedure. Today you can find a wide range of materials to suit every taste and price category. The most affordable and reliable material is slate. However, many are confused by his appearance. As an alternative, you can use modern polymer versions of slate - Euroslate or Ondulin.

Today, more and more often, developers give preference to another roofing material - metal tiles. The coating is relatively inexpensive, but at the same time it attracts buyers with its appearance and excellent performance characteristics. The disadvantage of metal tile coating is the low level of sound absorption.

Roof shapes, professional advice, details on video:

Thus, the roofs of houses are done both by one’s own hands and by specialists. But it is worth noting that the first option can sometimes outperform the work of experienced installers. This is due to the fact that the owners of country houses are trying to do high-quality roofing work. It is logical that a well-designed and executed roof will last for many years, so it is worth ordering from trusted specialists. At the same time, it is very important not to waste your financial resources on additional repairs. It’s better to carry out all the work efficiently once and arrange a comfortable home for yourself and your loved ones.

Having finished assembling the roof, you can begin arranging the drainage system. You can learn how to carry out such work from the article: "". We recommend watching photo and video materials on this topic in order to keep abreast of all the innovations in the construction market.