How to build a gazebo from old window frames with your own hands. New old windows or double-glazed windows in old frames Products from old window frames

How to build a gazebo from old window frames with your own hands.  New old windows or double-glazed windows in old frames Products from old window frames
How to build a gazebo from old window frames with your own hands. New old windows or double-glazed windows in old frames Products from old window frames

When entering an apartment or starting repairs, do not rush to change wooden windows for plastic counterparts “from the best European manufacturers”. Even if the window frames are dilapidated, they may be quite suitable for further use. Most of the old windows were made back in Soviet times, when the requirements for the quality of material and workmanship were quite high. Of course, repairs, insulation and exterior decoration may be required, but if you wish, if you have free time and minimal cash investments, there is every chance to get a decent result.

Which windows make sense to restore

It would seem that a completely damaged window frame is still quite subject to restoration.

To assess the feasibility of restoration, you need to consider the material from which the frames are made. In larch and pine, the limit of "life" is 25-35 years, in beech and oak - more than 50 years.

Restoration will not meet your expectations if:

  • there is a complete loosening of window frames in the openings;
  • the wood of the windows has dried up;
  • the structure of the tree looks loose, dents remain when pressed;
  • dark spots appear under the paint (under them, as a rule, dust and rot);
  • the windows are seriously damaged (the frames are split, etc.);
  • visual inspection shows that the frames are bent or severely deformed during operation.

Before restoration, also pay attention to the fact that the tree must be dry.

Photo gallery: materials needed to repair old wooden frames

The use of a primer will significantly extend the life of wooden windows.
Alkyd paint is considered the most popular when painting window frames. The film will not only keep warm, but also protect the room from unwanted light.
In most cases, the tubular seal is equipped with an adhesive strip, which greatly facilitates its installation on the window frame. Silicone sealant for windows will get rid of even the smallest cracks Paper strips can be bought, although it's not difficult to make them yourself.

Antiseptic treatment will protect windows from mold and fungus
Putty allows you to eliminate cracks and chips on old frames With the help of metal corners, the window geometry is corrected

Removing old paint from window frames

The paint can be removed thermally or chemically.

thermal method

To perform thermal cleaning, we need an industrial hair dryer (heat gun).

Old paint is best removed with a building hair dryer.

Do not try to heat the wood with a household hair dryer. It will not give the desired temperature (200°). Also, do not use a blowtorch or propane torch - you will only char the surface!

On an industrial hair dryer, the temperature is set in the range of 200–250 °. Above is not necessary, as this will lead to a loss in the quality of the material. It is advisable to put a narrow nozzle on the heat-generating hole, which will prevent the glass from heating. In a set of such heat appliances, they should be.

The frame must be placed on a narrow edge and rotated as needed. We sequentially heat up areas of 20-30 cm, while keeping the hair dryer at a distance of 10-15 cm from the frame. When the paint begins to bubble, remove it with a spatula or shoe knife.

After warming up with a hair dryer, the paint is removed from the tree with almost no effort.

Remember that the hair dryer overheats quickly, so follow the regimen: 5 minutes of operation - 10 minutes of cooling.

You should not use a sharpened spatula, it will slip on the old paint or, conversely, crash into the surface.

Chemical method

The chemical method is effective only with a small number of layers of old paint. A special reagent, which is sold in hardware stores, is applied to the surface and left for a certain time according to the instructions. Then remove the softened paint with a spatula and rags.

The substances used are toxic, so the work is best done outdoors (or on an open balcony). Also remember about protective equipment: gloves, respirator, goggles.

Putty and primer

Before carrying out this operation, you should carefully examine the window and mark all cracks and chips with a marker, and then go over with sandpaper to eliminate obvious roughness. All found cracks and irregularities should be treated with oil or latex putty.

The puttying process should be given special attention, since the heat-saving properties of windows directly depend on its quality.

To perform the work, a rubber spatula is used. Excess putty should be removed immediately, after it hardens it will be problematic.

Putty on wood has a certain drying time according to the instructions, which must be maintained.

As soon as the first layer of putty dries, if necessary, apply a second one. When the second layer is also dry, you should walk with fine-grained sandpaper over the puttied surfaces.

Geometry straightening

The appearance of drafts when the window is closed, increased audibility of street noise, as well as squeaks and significant physical effort required to open or close the window are typical signs of broken window geometry. Check the geometry of the sashes, if necessary, adjust them and fix the result by installing metal corners.

Note that window geometry does not always have to follow the "right angle" rule. If, for example, the window frame itself is somewhat skewed, then it makes no sense to check the window geometry with a square. It is better to pay attention to how the window closes and opens.

The geometry is adjusted by adjusting the tension of the screws located in the window hinges. If during closing the window sash clings to the frame, adjustment of the upper hinge is required. The lower hinge is responsible for moving the sash to the right / left.

The corners can be screwed with a conventional screwdriver, but it is faster and easier to do this with a screwdriver

Metal corners are attached at the joints of the frame parts and have both decorative and fixing purposes. The correct placement of the corners is on the inside of the window. Quantity - four pieces per frame. For installation, first, using a chisel, we prepare the grooves of the desired size. We insert corners into the grooves. We check the accuracy of the installation: we check the length of the diagonals of the frame.

Warming

There are several ways to reduce the heat loss of windows, using:

  • paper for pasting windows;
  • silicone sealants;
  • fabric strips;
  • tubular profiles;
  • seals in the frame doors;
  • heat-saving film.

The last two methods are the most effective and aesthetic.

To begin with, we process the junction of glass and sashes with silicone sealant.

Silicone sealant is great for insulating wooden windows

Then, along the perimeter of the sash, with a cutter at an angle of 45 ° in the direction of the flashing, we cut a groove 5 mm deep, remove the chips from the channel. We sequentially press the PVC seal into the resulting groove along the entire length, without stretching it.

To facilitate the installation of the seal in the groove, you can use a special roller

The seal, in addition to protection against drafts, provides additional noise insulation.

Recently, energy-saving film has been used to insulate windows. It is transparent, does not impair visibility and has a self-adhesive backing.

Energy-saving film allows not only to save heat, but also protects the room from excessive sunlight.

Its functional features are as follows: the film transmits daylight, but prevents heat transfer from the room, which allows you to save up to 60% of the heat leaving through the windows. The method of applying each specific film is described in detail in the instructions attached to it.

window trim

Before painting the frame, it should be impregnated with an antiseptic. This will avoid fungal infections and rotting. If the climate of your region is dry enough, then the antiseptic can be omitted. Then priming is carried out. Alkyd, acrylic and polystyrene primers are considered the most suitable for wooden frames.

After the primer dries, the frames can be painted.

Paint can be used in three different types:

AlkydThe oils and resins that make up its base actively prevent fading and deformation due to temperature changes. In addition, the frames after painting can be washed with any detergents. White spirit is used as a solvent (less often drying oil or turpentine).
AcrylicIt is based on water and polymers. It is sufficiently resistant to the sun, precipitation, abrasion. By adding color, you can choose the desired shade. There is no unpleasant smell. Dries quickly. Ordinary water can be used as a solvent.
Dispersion (water-based)The main advantage is the ability to repeatedly repaint the surface of windows without removing layers of old paint. It has good fade resistance. Inexpensive. The solvent is water.

Painting windows is a simple process, which, however, requires some care.

It is advisable to paint the windows in two or three layers. Properly dilute the paint with a solvent. It is better to do it as you use it. For example, pour 300-500 grams into a separate container and mix there. Optimum density allows you to create a clean, uniform layer that does not spread.

For the first layer, it is desirable to use a more liquid paint consistency. Do not try to cover up all visible defects at once. The first layer is partially absorbed. Be sure to let it dry well, otherwise the second layer applied to a damp surface will be covered with wrinkles and bubbles.

To avoid the unpleasant procedure of removing paint from the glass, use a special masking tape, pasting it on the glass close to the frame in advance.

If you don't want to paint the frames, you can alternatively just varnish them. Lacquering happens:

  • Opaque - using pigmented varnishes that completely hide the texture and color of wood;
  • Transparent - a colorless varnish is used for it, which preserves the natural appearance of the tree.

Of course, there are other types of window frame finishes, such as imitation and special. They are quite time-consuming and require a certain level of professional training, as well as the use of special tools.

After the finish coat has dried, if necessary, new window fittings are installed. Here the process of replacing loops requires comments. First, we correctly determine the place of their attachment. To this end, we insert the frame into the opening and fix it with wedges. Only when an equal gap between the frame and the opening is reached along the entire perimeter, we mark the locations of the mounting points. With a chisel we make a groove for the future landing of the loop and screw in the screws.

Video: do-it-yourself window restoration

The following video shows in detail all the stages of window frame restoration.

Updating wooden windows with your own hands is not so difficult. Properly performed restoration will enable your windows to serve for many more years, while saving the family budget, since you do not have to replace old windows with new ones. Good luck with your repair!

Born in 1977 in Donetsk, Ukraine. Graduated from the Donetsk Polytechnic Institute (now DonSTU) with a degree in Automated Control Systems. He worked at the Donetsk Metallurgical Plant. In 1997 he moved to Moscow, where for 8 years he worked in several construction teams.

Do not puzzle over where to dispose of old wooden or plastic windows after repair. Using this instruction and useful tips from summer residents, build a greenhouse or a full-fledged greenhouse from window frames with your own hands - and treat yourself to early vegetables, and among your neighbors you will be known as a master. Thoroughly study how to make the structure reliable and airtight so that it solves the assigned tasks, withstands bad weather and stands on the site for several seasons.

Neat greenhouse from window frames

Pros and cons of greenhouses from old window frames

Does the prospect of getting a practically free greenhouse warm your soul? Do not rush to rub your hands in anticipation of future profits from greenhouse farming - a cheap greenhouse has both advantages and disadvantages. For example, you cannot make such a greenhouse yourself in a jiffy, and even live, and in the photo the structures are significantly inferior in appearance to polycarbonate ones. Whether such a solution suits you, you will understand when you study other nuances.

Mini greenhouse from an old window

Features of frame greenhouses

A greenhouse made of window frames, in addition to cost, has other advantages:

  • windows, if they have retained their integrity, keep heat well;
  • in the presence of glasses, it is not necessary to spend money on covering material;
  • the design is quite light, and the soil warms up quickly;
  • there are already vents in the window frames, which means that the ventilation issue has been resolved;
  • a leaky element can always be replaced with a similar one.

Greenhouse from window second-hand

On the other hand, a do-it-yourself greenhouse made of window frames, even in the photo, looks, to put it mildly, unpresentable. If you approach the matter responsibly, then its installation will take at least a week. Therefore, those who value their own time as worth their weight in gold or are worried about the landscape design of their site do not undertake the construction of a frame greenhouse.

The disadvantages should also include a large number of joints and connections between frames that are often of different sizes. They all need to be sealed with sealant so that precious heat does not leak into the cracks. It will be necessary to grease, tint, repair such a greenhouse during the entire period of operation. Besides:

  • a greenhouse assembled from “pieces” is difficult to dismantle and move to another place;
  • glass breaks easily and, working near the walls of the greenhouse, care must be taken;
  • the greenhouse turns out to be heavy - you can’t do without a foundation.

Window frames shade the greenhouse by 30%

We must not forget that under glass, which retains UV B and C spectrum useful for plants, crops grow more slowly than under a light-transmitting film. Is it worth abandoning the idea altogether because of these features? Of course not, they just need to be taken into account in the design of a home-made greenhouse and responsibly approach the choice of a place for it.

Choice of location and design

Before you make a greenhouse out of window frames, decide where it will be located. The question is far from being idle: not only its size and shape, but also the internal microclimate and productivity directly depend on the location of the structure. Of course, these recommendations are not feasible for every site, but if possible, try to comply with them at least partially:

  • so that the greenhouse is well lit and protected from the north winds, install it in front of tall structures or plantings;
  • build a structure on the southeast, southwest or south side of the site;
  • it’s good if there is a hill in this place, otherwise you will have to equip the drainage layer;
  • analyze the condition of the soil in the selected plot - if the soil is clayey, cover it with gravel and fill it with black soil;
  • place the greenhouse for tomatoes as far as possible from the plantation with potatoes - this is important for preventing the spread of late blight;
  • keep in mind that the south-north is considered the most successful direction for the roof ridge - this is how cultivated crops receive the maximum amount of sunlight from the east and south.

The location of the greenhouse on the site

If you want to extend the growing season, consider also the communications system - you will need to provide heating, lighting and watering. To make it all easier to do it yourself, it is important that the window frame greenhouse is located as close as possible to the energy source.

As for the shape of the greenhouse, then choose it based on your goals:

  • For a hotbed greenhouse, a box-shaped structure inclined to one side is suitable. It is also convenient to organize temporary storage of root crops in it in the fall.
  • It is convenient to grow greens and grown seedlings in a gable mini-greenhouse.
  • To get a crop of cucumbers or tomatoes, you need a greenhouse-house with a height of at least 1.8 m with doors and vents.

The simplest greenhouse

Do-it-yourself construction stages

To figure out how to build a small but functional greenhouse from old window frames, check out the step-by-step master class provided by an experienced vegetable grower and a video describing the process. First, determine the dimensions by the number of frames, and then draw a sketch of the greenhouse on a scale and decide on the type of foundation.

Which is better - foundation or foundation

For the sake of maximum simplification and reduction in the cost of construction, another summer resident plans to do without a foundation and install the greenhouse simply on the ground. In professional construction, there is the concept of a base - an array of soil that can perceive the load from the structure without deformation. But for this it is strengthened in various ways:

  • pneumatic rammer;
  • silicification (introduction of liquid glass solution into the soil layer);
  • cementation (injection of liquid cement mortar).

It is unrealistic and unprofitable to create a base strong enough for a heavy greenhouse on your own and without equipment. Therefore, based on your own considerations and financial capabilities, you need to choose the material for the foundation. Usually consider the following options:

  • wooden beam;
  • bricks or blocks;
  • reinforced concrete.

Shell block construction

The beam is quickly installed, but it also rots quickly. It can and should be impregnated with resin or wrapped in roofing felt, but these activities only slow down the process for a short time. A plinth made of silicate or hollow brick will not last long, and well-fired clinker is expensive. The purchase of foundation blocks will not be much cheaper, since according to the technology they need to be insulated and insulated with high quality, and this will also cost a pretty penny.

The bar is enough for 3-4 years

Some craftsmen manage to adapt railway sleepers, car tires, iron pipes for greenhouses. But the most predictable and relatively cheap is a shallow concrete strip support - the service life with the right approach exceeds tens of years. To understand how justified such a structure is for a homemade greenhouse from old frames, study the installation technology.

Tire base

How to pour a concrete foundation

Determine the width of the foundation tape according to the type of soil: 20 cm (for loams) or 25 cm (for sandy soils). At the previously selected place, remove the site and mark up:

  1. Choose the location of the first corner and in its place, using a plumb line, vertically install a peg or piece of reinforcement.
  2. Pull the string from it at a right angle and determine the second and third corners at the required distance - also mark them with pegs.
  3. From the second and third corners towards the fourth, stretch the twine and, setting the corner, set the last mark.
  4. Check the resulting rectangle diagonally: they should be equal.
  5. In a similar way, mark the inner contour of the foundation.

Finished trench

Calculate the required height of the foundation from the ground as the difference between the height of the window frames and the height of the greenhouse under construction along the floor beams. Mark the calculated size on the pegs and stretch the string horizontally.

Now comes the turn of earthworks. According to the marking, dig a trench 30 cm deep. The walls should be vertical; when the soil is shedding, install temporary supports. Check the bottom with a level and, at the slightest slope, level it to the horizontal. Pour sand into the finished trench in layers, spilling and tamping each layer. The thickness of the pillow is 15 cm.

  1. From the edged board and timber, assemble the formwork.
  2. From the outside, install supports to prevent its deformation.
  3. Attach reinforcing bars with a diameter of 8–12 mm to the formwork walls and tie them together with wire.
  4. Mix cement grade 200 with sifted river sand in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:2.5 and dilute with water to a state of liquid sour cream.
  5. Pour crushed stone with the resulting solution - its amount is the same as sand.
  6. Mix the concrete and pour it into the formwork, compacting it with improvised means, a perforator or a construction mixer in the process.
  7. Level the top layer with a rule or trowel and sprinkle it with concrete sifted through a sieve.

Pouring concrete

The resulting foundation can be used subsequently for more than one greenhouse.

Finished base

Installation of windows and frames

Dismantled windows should be prepared before reuse. Check their condition - dried wood cannot be restored and is not suitable for a greenhouse. Carefully remove old hinges, nails, latches from the frames - everything that is outdated or may interfere with installation. To avoid damaging the glass, temporarily remove:

  1. Remove the glazing beads from the window frame, pull out all the glass, marking them in accordance with each opening.
  2. Wash the glass sheets with warm soapy water.
  3. Replace cracked glass and add new ones to replace missing ones.
  4. Remove the layer of old coating with a blowtorch or paint stripper.
  5. Fill in any irregularities if necessary.
  6. Apply several layers of antiseptic, let the surface dry.
  7. Paint the frames with a light-colored exterior paint.

Repaired window frame

The most time-consuming operation in the construction of a greenhouse from old window frames with your own hands is the construction of a frame. It is optimal if, after replacing the windows with metal-plastic double-glazed windows, frames of the same size remain. In this case, lay a sheet of roofing material on a concrete foundation, on it - a beam of the lower trim. Then, one by one, use dowels to screw the frames to the foundation and tie them with racks and jumpers for rigidity.

Scheme of the frame from the boards

When installing oversized frames with a frame structure, you will have to tinker a little more:

  1. At the corners of the foundation, place vertical posts of the same height, equal to the height of the largest frame and the width of the lower trim beam.
  2. Firmly install the top trim around the entire perimeter.
  3. Attach the first frame to it with three dowels, and leave its lower edge free.
  4. Install the second frame in the same way, but on the other side.
  5. Bring the lower beam into the gap between the frames and the foundation and attach it to the foundation and pillars.
  6. Lay the remaining open space with a board according to its size - due to the location at the bottom, such inserts will not obscure the greenhouse.

Holes covered with plastic wrap

Alternatively, the playing height of the frames can be compensated with polycarbonate inserts, installing them in any place.

Wooden and plastic frames - pros and cons

The nuances of building a greenhouse from wooden windows, positive and not so, are discussed above. But more and more often it happens that pioneer homeowners, who once were the first to replace wooden frames with metal-plastic double-glazed windows, already have to change them too. This means that such material can also fall into the hands. Upon closer examination, metal-plastic has its advantages and disadvantages in the new "role".

At first glance, a metal-plastic greenhouse is impeccable:

  • the design looks modern;
  • keeps heat superbly;
  • equipped with ready-made vents;
  • resistant to wind and snow;
  • durable and environmentally friendly.

Factory greenhouse made of metal-plastic

Having seen enough of the new windows of the house, someone will even want to invest a sum of money in a capital greenhouse made of metal-plastic frames. However, not everything is so rosy - the windows are still intended for other purposes and have not been tested in greenhouse conditions. Especially many questions arise regarding restoration:

  • depressurized frames (one of the frequent reasons for replacement) are also unsuitable for greenhouses;
  • during installation, it is impossible to pull the glass out of the frames - there is a high risk of damage;
  • if the upper trim and the roof of the greenhouse are incorrectly installed, an uneven load acts on the window frame, and the double-glazed window bursts;
  • it is impossible to replace broken glass "on the knee" - specialists and equipment are needed.

Drawing of a homemade greenhouse

The greenhouse itself turns out to be non-separable and heavy - it will be extremely problematic to move it to a new place with your own hands. If you have free plastic windows, then why not build a greenhouse out of them. But do not be tempted to buy specifically for this purpose: for the money you can find better specialized solutions.

If you still decide to use double-glazed windows, remember: their installation is carried out on the lower trim simultaneously with the installation of frame racks made of wooden beams or steel profiles (the latter option is more reliable). In the process, plastic frames can be drilled with self-tapping screws or screws, the main thing is to know where to do it so as not to damage the valuable material.

Video: where you can drill window plastic

Greenhouse made of frames with a polycarbonate roof

So, the task of how to make a greenhouse with your own hands from old window frames is almost solved. It remains to cover the structure and thereby protect the plantings from precipitation. There are three ways to do this:

  1. Using the same frames as for walls is only acceptable for box greenhouses, since placing a heavy structure with glass over someone's head is unsafe.
  2. Covering with a film or spunbond is a simple and affordable solution. True, you will have to build a roof frame, and remove the material for the winter.
  3. Install polycarbonate sheets - if there are no stocks. This option requires material costs, but no hail is terrible for the greenhouse, and it will be possible to operate it indefinitely.

Arched greenhouse under polycarbonate

Decide on the shape of the roof - will it be arched or gable. Arched allows more sunlight to pass through, covering it with film or polycarbonate is a pleasure, but you need to stock up on a metal profile bent on a pipe bender. If you or someone you know doesn't have this feature, switch to a gable roof, especially since it almost never needs snow removal.

To build a load-bearing roofing system with your own hands, you will need:

  • ridge beam 5x5 cm of the same length as the built greenhouse;
  • timber 15x5 for rafters;
  • fasteners and consumables;
  • from tools - a hammer, saw, electric drill, tape measure, ax, plumb line.

Gable greenhouse

The algorithm of work looks like this:

  1. Treat lumber for roofing with impregnation. Dry.
  2. Based on the dimensions of the greenhouse and the pitch between the rafters (60–80 cm), calculate the required number of truss trusses. The angle of inclination of the roof is 25-30 degrees.
  3. According to the dimensions, make the first truss from two rafter legs and a bottom tie. Make all the other farms according to the template.
  4. Install the trusses in turn on the upper trim of the frame and firmly fix them on both sides with corners and self-tapping screws.

wooden farm

Now cut the polycarbonate and, having correctly oriented the canvases (with stiffening ribs vertically and the UV-protected side up), fix them on the rafter system.

Rafter fastening

Video: do-it-yourself greenhouse construction

In conclusion, ensure the tightness of the greenhouse built by yourself:

  1. Install window panes and secure them with glazing beads (if the old ones don't work, you can buy new ones or replace them with a colorless sealant).
  2. Hang doors - use balcony doors, just pre-cut them in height.
  3. Seal large holes with polycarbonate residues, and small gaps with mounting foam.
  4. Check how the windows open and close, install loops and hooks to fix them.

Perhaps some points remained unclear - look in the selection of videos on how homemade summer residents get out of various situations. If you make a greenhouse out of window frames, as shown in the instructions, it will serve faithfully for many years.

Video 1: Building a greenhouse from different frames

Video 2: Homemade greenhouse on a brick base

Video 3: Greenhouse under polycarbonate

Do-it-yourself gazebo from window frames. Step by step instructions with photo

Master class "Arbor from old window frames with your own hands"

Master class on the construction of a gazebo. feng shui gazebo

Author: Natalya Alexandrovna Ermakova, Lecturer, Municipal Budgetary Educational Institution of Additional Education for Children "Children's Art School named after A. A. Bolshakov", Velikiye Luki, Pskov Region.
Description: the material can be useful to everyone who is fond of creativity, gardening and landscape design, to all those who love their garden and are engaged in its improvement.
Purpose: the gazebo will serve as a wonderful place for the whole family to create its own unique design and great mood.
Target: creating a gazebo from old window frames.
Tasks: build a gazebo from improvised materials, create a resting place for the whole family protected from wind and bad weather from old frames.

Hello dear guests! The veneration of nature and the perception of it as part of man himself was previously manifested in pagan religions. But in the Slavic countries, pre-Christian religions have long since died out. But the Chinese still believe that any tree, blade of grass and brook can influence the fate of a person, giving him positive energy or, conversely, taking away part of the life force. The harmony between people and nature is called geomancy, and Tibetan monks live by its laws. In the West, only one branch of geomancy is known - feng shui. This direction is engaged in the arrangement of a person's personal space - his house, plot and even wardrobe. It is believed that a Feng Shui garden helps a person to live in happiness, attracts the necessary energies (love, fame, etc.). And the more carefully you arrange every corner of the space, the faster you will achieve your goals.


Today we will talk about such an important element that must be in your yard or in the country, and to be more precise, this work will be devoted to an ordinary, but such a necessary gazebo.
A beautiful gazebo in a summer cottage can become its main decoration and main highlight. Since ancient times, people built small cozy houses in the gardens, which allowed them to admire the beauties of nature. With the right location on the backyard, the gazebo can attract positive energy.


Pavilions can perform various functions. It can be a small cozy building in the depths of the garden, conducive to contemplation and reflection alone. And there are others, those who are able to gather the whole family on a day off under their roof. There you can easily drink fragrant tea and have fun talking with loved ones.
Depending on which sector the gazebo will be in, its form is selected:
-North-round and octagonal arbors;
-Northeast-square, rectangular, round;
-East - square, rectangular;
-Southeast-square, rectangular, octagonal gazebos;
-South - octagonal, square;
-Southwest-square, rectangular;
-West-square and round;
-Northwest-square and round arbors;
-In the center of the site - octagonal.
Each direction of the world is responsible for a certain aspect of life: prosperity, longevity, love, creativity, career, family and children.


The dimensions, shape and methods of decorating the gazebo depend solely on the imagination and wishes of the owner of the site. The best place to place a gazebo is a space closed from the noise and dust of the street, from which a view of any decorative element or a composition pleasing to the eye opens up. If the site has a reservoir of artificial or natural origin, then this structure is best located on its shore.
It is desirable that the gazebo be protected from the wind by a hedge of shrubs or a group of trees. It would also be useful to place flower beds near it, alpine slides, suitable garden sculptures and everything that will make this corner of the garden attractive to all family members. At the same time, do not forget that all the details must be combined with each other and create a complete picture.


When arranging a gazebo, its lighting should be taken into account. It should be selected in accordance with its purpose and future functions. If it is planned to gather in the gazebo in the evenings for any activities - board games, needlework or reading - then the lighting should be bright enough, but not blinding. If you want to give this corner of the garden a romantic look, you should illuminate the path to the gazebo and place sconces with subdued light on its walls.


According to an ancient Chinese proverb, a person has three main things: destiny, chance and feng shui. Fate gives us a chance to get acquainted with feng shui in order to improve our health and our lives. Everyone has their own destiny. We cannot change our origin, gender, nationality, or date of birth. But each person has a chance to get acquainted with feng shui in order to change and improve not only health, but also his whole life. Feng Shui is a unique folk wisdom that has collected centuries-old observations of nature, its changes and signs.


1. Don't sit on the corner.
"Seven years without reciprocity," you say? If only this! According to Feng Shui, a protruding angle aimed at a person, whether it is the corner of a table, closet or any other, sends "poison arrows" to the poor fellow, which will leave him not only without reciprocity, but also without money, health and good luck.
2. Don't say goodbye across the threshold.
"Fight," they say. That's right: the threshold is an energy barrier separating two worlds. On one side - "one's own", on the other - "alien". An invisible border prevents contact, and things and energy transferred "from world to world" are lost for both worlds. So it turns out that the connection between the "participants of the contact" is destroyed.
3. Don't cook in a bad mood.
This is how mothers and grandmothers teach beginner housewives. The older generation is absolutely right: food absorbs the surrounding energy, and when we consume this same food, we get an appropriate energy charge along with calories and vitamins. Borscht and cutlets, "charged" with a quarrel, news of another terrorist attack or emotions generated by a television "horror movie", are quite capable of poisoning a family.
4. Don't stand behind your back.
- we say, shivering shiveringly, even if someone quite dear and close was behind us. And the point is not in an ancient instinct that makes you fear a sneaking enemy, but in the fact that the unprotected rear itself carries a threat. Feng Shui considers the lack of support and support from behind to be the weakest energy position. Moreover, this is equally important for a person and for a home. You should always have a wall behind you, or at least a screen, and the rear of your house must be protected by a high hill, or at least by a neighbor's house.
5. Don't back yourself into a corner.
Another extremely unfavorable, according to Feng Shui, position. The corner is considered a place that can draw energy out of a person - a kind of domestic vampire. It is not for nothing that a child who has long been naughty is put with his nose in a corner - so that he loses an excess of hooligan energy (the main thing is not to overexpose his beloved child there ...).
6. Don't look in a cracked mirror.
According to Feng Shui, not only cracked mirrors are harmful, but also patterned mirrors, mirror tiles, and other surfaces that break, crush the reflection. All this crushes, destroys energy, which will affect, first of all, health.
7. A mirror in your pocket will save you from the enemy.
We still believe that when meeting with an ill-wisher, a mirror placed in a pocket helps - of course, with the reflective side out. It will reflect all his evil thoughts and intentions. And also - all the negative energy directed against you is commented on by feng shui. And he advises to protect the house from adverse influences by hanging a mirror over a door or window.
8. Don't show off on yourself.
we warn a person who talks about someone's ailments. According to Feng Shui, the mechanism of the evil eye in this case is as follows: by pointing a finger, we send an energy charge. At the same time, naming the disease, we give this charge the appropriate "color": we fill it with accurate information about the diagnosis.
9. Don't come back half way.
- "there will be no way." Still, says Feng Shui! Remember what we said about the threshold? All these jumps "from world to world" are quite energy-intensive - this is probably known to avid travelers who often cross the borders of states. If you really had to return - restore your strength: sit down (take your strength from the house), take a look in the mirror (reflecting, the energy doubles).
10. Run under the rainbow - you will be happy.
Of course, for those who remember physics, it is clear: in principle, it is impossible to do this. But even seeing a rainbow - a symbol of the Heavenly Gates - is considered a good sign. And Feng Shui recommends "taming" a rainbow and settling it in your own home. That is why arched openings are so favorable - passing under them, each time we "step under the rainbow" and receive the protection of Heaven.


Materials and tools:
-old window frames
- wooden beam 50:50 (6 meters 13 pieces)
-roulette
-hammer, nails 3, 2*50, 3.5*80
- screwdriver, wood screws 3.8*32
- impact drill (drill for metal)
- water-based stain (lemon), water emulsion, brush
- red enamel (terracotta) 6 kg, white spirit (solvent), brush
-cement, building sand, river sand
- a bucket for a cement solution, 2 buckets of mayonnaise, a trowel
-shovel
-saw
- perforated fasteners and corners
-ladder
- stapler, fabric paintings (painting on fabric)
The cement mortar is made in a ratio of 1:4. That is, for 1 bucket (from under mayonnaise) of cement, 4 buckets of sand will be needed. The sand should be sifted, or just by hand, which is exactly what I did, remove the large stones, sift the sand through your fingers. The construction bucket takes 2 buckets of cement, 8 buckets of sand and 2.5 buckets of water. When all the ingredients are poured into the container, they must be mixed using a perforator with a concrete mixer screwed into it, literally 7-10 minutes, until a homogeneous mass.

Master class progress:

We start with the preparation of materials. The beam needs to be cut in half by three meters, one beam is left unsawn. Then the beams must be covered with stain, to preserve the wood and their longer operation.


The beam has dried up and we begin the construction of the walls of the gazebo. We connect two large frames together with a beam. We nail with large nails (80 *) the timber to the frame from the lower and upper sides. My plot is very small, so I immediately place the finished wall at the intended location.


I'm not a builder, but I really like to do something useful out of unnecessary things. Therefore, I do not have a specific construction scheme, everything is in the process of work. As they say, appetite comes with eating! I paint the frames from the inside with the remnants of water-based paint diluted with yellow gouache. In order for the background to have an even character, the color is applied by a kind of slapping of the brush on the glass.
In the art of Feng Shui, yellow indicates cheerfulness, cheerfulness, and brilliance. It symbolizes a hot and shining sun, a warm sunny day, gold, longevity. Light yellow is the best color to create an atmosphere of friendship and creativity. Yellow and gold are the colors of the earth. They can give a sense of a stable existence, hope and happiness.


Next, I determine the place where the corner of the gazebo will be, from which we will begin construction. I’ll run ahead a little, I will fix each pillar with fragments of brick and subsequently fill it with cement.


We wet the ground with water and pour cement, the pillar must be left stationary for about a day.


Then you need to assemble the second wall of the gazebo, it is assembled in the same way as the first, we knock down the frames with the help of a bar.


This side will consist of three frames, smaller in size, but the same height.


Then two finished walls must be installed at the first pillar in the shape of the letter "G". And fasten them to the base of the pillar with the help of large nails hammered from the edge of the frames. First, we nail one frame to the post, then the second, do not forget to follow the level of the walls so that their edges are at the same height (1).
Near the end of the second unpainted wall, we dig a hole for the second pillar, place the pillar there right next to the frame and hammer it together with large nails (2). For greater strength of the connection, we use perforated fasteners for timber. We attach them with wood screws and a Phillips screwdriver.
The part of the gazebo where the yellow-painted frames are located will be lower, the opposite side will be higher. This is necessary for the roof, so that there is a good slope of water. For the lower part, we need three beams, you need to immediately measure the length that suits you, and cut off the excess beam with a saw.


Now we move to the other side of the gazebo. We also dig a hole, install a beam, fasten it to the frame with nails.
Next, we continue the wall with a frame from the interior door. At the right distance, we dig a hole for the fourth pillar.


First, we knock down the outer beam with the door with nails, then put it in place.


We fasten the frames together using perforated fasteners (an iron plate with holes), wood screws and a screwdriver, in several places on the inside and outside of the gazebo.


With the help of a beam, we measure out the third side of our building. The line can be marked with a shovel, draw a guide line on the ground.


This is how the frame turned out. The top bar is fixed with nails and fasteners.
The gazebo has an L-shape, a sofa is located near the sides protected from the wind, and in the middle there is a large family hearth. Since fire is very fond of in our family, and a large fire is an integral part of our family evening, two walls must be left open.
The fireplace was laid out with stones and cement a year ago, but has not yet been fully completed.



Now I want to give the gazebo a look, we will paint.


The color I chose is terracotta - according to Feng Shui, it is the color of the earth, confidence and stability, it is considered a very pleasant person to perceive.
Terracotta color is suitable for people who cannot imagine their life without bright emotions and impressions, who are passionate and adventurous, adventurous. Let's break it down into tonal components! The red shade is considered aggressive and ardent, but becoming clayey, it calms down a bit. If the scarlet color can be compared with the beauty of a young girl, then terracotta is a mature femininity. From orange he got energy, shameless joy, the ability to cheer up with one of his appearances. And from brown - a certain balance, regularity, depth. With all this, terracotta is a natural color associated with nature, rocky mountains, sunsets. For those who cannot afford frequent rest, this shade can become a kind of pill from a routine lifestyle. There are so many emotions hidden in it that it is possible to comprehend this color for a long time. But do not forget one simple thing - to love a color and feel comfortable in its environment, these are completely different things. Terracotta color in details is suitable for a romantic and sublime interior, terracotta color practically does not combine with cool tones.
It is believed that this color is pleasant to perceive and is able to enhance the feeling of security and safety and is ideally combined with white and its shades (roof-white metal). Feng Shui recommends using terracotta color in paintings placed at the entrance to the room if you are afraid of theft in the house or at work.


Since there was no construction plan, the material for the roof had not yet been purchased. Now we need to measure the size of the gazebo, I got the size of the gazebo 3 by 4 meters. We calculate this footage for the size of corrugated sheets (1.5 by 1.2) - in total, we need 6 sheets.


While we are waiting for the delivery of corrugated board, we continue to build the walls of the gazebo. Let's make the area near the sofa more closed from the wind. We will work on the same principle as with other walls. First, we fill the beam on the bottom and top of the frame, then we connect the frame with the corner beam.


We dig a hole under the beam on the other side of the frame, fasten the parts with nails.




Near the door frame, we will also make a small continuation of the wall according to the same principle. Then we will completely paint the gazebo and pillars for the roof frame.


In some places there are no glasses in the frames, I will mask these voids with the help of fabric paintings (painting on fabric) and a stapler.


Here's an art gallery. Moreover, all the paintings are placed in accordance with the recommendations of Feng Shui.
Feng shui painting rules.




With the remaining canvases, we create a tablecloth for the table in the gazebo area.


It's time for the roof. We lay out a sheet of corrugated board and beams on the ground, we need to evenly distribute them over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe sheet.


Then you need to fasten the beam with sheets of corrugated board. This can be done using self-tapping screws, this method is more expensive (self-tapping screws are sold individually). First, a hole is drilled with a drill (a drill for metal), then a self-tapping screw is screwed.

Fresh and organic vegetables are always welcome "guests" on our table. The owners of summer cottages make a lot of efforts to grow "their" cucumbers, tomatoes and peppers. However, hard work alone is not enough. Indeed, in order to obtain high yields, it is necessary to create seedlings suitable conditions for growth and development. Therefore, a greenhouse is an excellent way out - with your own hands you can build a structure from inexpensive and affordable materials.

Today, many people in their homes are removing old window frames, replacing them with convenient and practical double-glazed windows. But such frames can be given a "second life" by using them for the construction of a greenhouse or greenhouse. So, today we will figure out in detail how to build a "house for vegetables" without significant costs.

Greenhouse from old frames: pros and cons

Before starting the construction of a greenhouse, both the advantages and disadvantages of such a project should be taken into account. First about the benefits:

  • Affordable project cost. It is enough to collect the required amount of unnecessary window frames left after the repair, and you are provided with the main material. This is much cheaper than using new blocks to build a greenhouse.
  • Quick installation. After pouring and drying the foundation, it remains only to assemble the frames into one whole - and the greenhouse built by oneself is ready. This stage will take only a few days, but you should carefully prepare for it.
  • A set of available tools. A hammer and nails is all you need.

Useful advice: if possible, it is better to use a power tool - a jigsaw and a screwdriver. If the farm does not have these useful things, then they can easily be rented.

"Cons" of greenhouses from old window frames:

  • Ongoing structural maintenance. Old wood dries out, and cracks form through which moisture and other adverse factors from the environment can penetrate.
  • Limited service life. If old window blocks were used as raw materials for the manufacture of greenhouses, then their service life is quite short. True, for 5-7 years such a “house” for vegetables and seedlings will definitely serve.

Note! Old window frames are a suitable material for building a greenhouse for a "home" backyard. However, for growing, for example, cucumbers, on an "industrial" scale, it is better to choose a metal profile or steel pipes. Of course, this will cost much more, but the design will turn out to be more reliable.

Greenhouse from window frames for teapots

Before proceeding with the construction, you should consider important details. For example, do you need to make a wooden frame or can you skip this step? This will depend on the thickness and configuration of the assembled window units. With a significant thickness of the frames, it will be possible to completely do without a frame.

Stocking up on materials:

  • Rubble and sand- for the foundation of the future structure. Of course, it is possible to build a greenhouse from window frames without a foundation, but the reliability will be questionable.
  • Boards and timber of different sections- on wall posts 50 x 100 mm, on corner posts - 100 x 100 mm.
  • fittings- nails, door and window hinges, locks and handles on the door, steel cornice, antiseptic for wooden surfaces. When constructing a roof from a sheet of steel, this material will also have to be purchased.
  • Old frames.


Required tools:

  • a hammer
  • screwdriver - can be electric
  • a circular saw
  • chisel
  • drill bits for wood
  • level
  • square
  • roulette
  • piece of cord
  • polyurethane foam
  • screws

DIY greenhouse - drawings

Any construction begins with the design of the future structure. However, in our case, you just need to assemble the structure from ready-made modules. We carry out the following preparatory work:

  1. We lay out the window frames on a flat piece of land, choosing details for the side and end sides. We achieve the most ideal compatibility of "puzzles".
  2. We measure and record the results of the layout.
  3. We make a detailed drawing on paper indicating all the parameters and dimensions of the parts.
  4. We are preparing three more drawings - the foundation, the frame and the roofing part of the future greenhouse from window frames.


How to build a greenhouse from window frames with your own hands - a step-by-step guide (with photos and videos)

So, after acquiring and preparing all the necessary tools, you can begin work.

Step #1. Choosing a place for a greenhouse

The site for the building should be chosen taking into account the fact that the plants will need the maximum availability of sunlight. Therefore, there should not be capital buildings or tall trees nearby that obscure the sunlight.

If you are planning to build a greenhouse from film frames, then you should choose a site that is not blown by strong winds. Otherwise, the microclimate of the structure may be disturbed, which will adversely affect the plants inside. However, even a glazed greenhouse is not recommended to be placed in a windy area - in order to avoid stress.

The soil must be dry and dense, since subsidence and subsequent deformation of a wooden structure are possible in a humid and swampy environment.



Step #2. Foundation for greenhouse

The selected area needs to be cleared - remove debris, uproot roots, weeds and stumps.

We transfer the dimensions of the future greenhouse to the site and drive in small stakes around the perimeter, between which we stretch a cord or rope. Now in each corner and near the sides you need to dig small holes up to 0.5 meters deep - at the level of soil freezing. Pour crushed stone (soy about 10 cm) into the pits and tamp.

Now the formwork is next in line - we insert an asbestos-cement pipe (diameter 10 - 15 cm) into each pit, level it, insert the reinforcement. The structure should be reinforced in position with bricks and then poured with concrete. We assemble the lower crown of timber on the foundation and fasten it with iron plates.

If it is planned to build a greenhouse from window frames without a foundation, then it is enough to simply make a strapping from a bar and lay it on the ground. For the purpose of waterproofing, you can use roofing material, in which the bars are wrapped (pictured).

As a rule, the concrete dries completely after a couple of weeks. After that, the plane under the greenhouse around the entire perimeter of the foundation can be laid out with bricks. Thus, a flat area is obtained, which greatly facilitates subsequent assembly.

Step number 3. We assemble the frame of the greenhouse from window frames

The assembly of the structure is carried out in the following sequence: installation of pillars and a frame made of timber, to which we attach window frames.

Important! If you plan to use timber for the frame, and not boards, be sure to consider their thickness. After all, a too thin beam simply cannot withstand the weight of the entire structure and at any moment can fall apart like a house of cards.

First, we measure the width of the window frames. Along the perimeter of the foundation, we measure the segments, the length of which exceeds the width of the frames by 5 - 7 cm and mark these places. At these points, we fix the standing ones from a bar of the same height. Then, over the pillars, we stretch the thread along the level in order to correct the tops. If there are protruding parts, you need to cut them down.

We take a bar and lay it horizontally on the "tops". Thus, "cells" for window frames are obtained. Now you need to install the frames, not forgetting the door and the window, and securely strengthen all the details.

With the help of mounting foam, we close the gaps between the modules and the rack ones. Professionals advise dry foam to be puttied or painted, which will avoid drying out.

Step number 4. Making a roof

The roof can be shed or gable - let's focus on the first option. To begin with, we lay the boards on the wall trim under the support of the rafters. At the same time, it is important not to forget to mark the slots for installing the inclined roof beams of the greenhouse from the frames.

We put racks in each corner of the side wall - this is how a slope is created. Between the racks we lay a bar on which we fix the front roof board. We put the side boards into the roof and attach to the front board with screws. Under the rafter boards, we make grooves in the extreme board, for which we use a template (the letter “P”, cut out taking into account the width and height of the nest).

Now we stretch the cord and check that all the beams of the rafters are in the same plane. We place a roofing on top - it is desirable to make it from cellular polycarbonate, glass or film.

Each of these materials has its own advantages and disadvantages. If you build a greenhouse from frames under the film, then such a structure will not exert an excessive load on the foundation. True, polyethylene is required to be periodically watered with water to knock down dust and dirt. As a coating, many prefer polycarbonate. It remains to attach the door and the ventilation window and the design is ready.

Greenhouses from window frames: photo

There are many different greenhouses - small, large, single-sided, double-sided, arched. The photo shows different designs.








As you can see, a do-it-yourself greenhouse from window frames is not such a difficult construction (even for "dummies"). It is important to carefully study all the details and carefully take measurements. And, of course, stock up on patience and tools - and things will definitely work out! After all, such a greenhouse can be equipped with a heating system, water supply, light and other amenities. Good luck with your work!