How to install heating radiators. Installing batteries in an apartment is a job that can be done by a non-professional. What tools are needed for installation work?

The inlet pipe, bypass, is connected to the upper branch pipe, and the outlet pipe - to the lower one. This connection method is used for installing batteries in an apartment with a single-pipe heating system.

The main inlet pipe is installed on top of one side of the battery, and the outlet pipe is installed below, on the other side of the radiators. Our company uses this method to install radiators in apartments with a single-pipe heating system. The advantage of this method of installing heating systems is that the battery produces maximum heat transfer.

This method is used to install radiators in an apartment with a single-pipe heating system. The advantage of this method is that you can disguise the pipes under the baseboard or hide them in a screed under the floor.

In two-pipe systems, there are two separate pipelines (supply and return), the supply pipe is connected to the upper pipe, and the return pipe to the lower. This method is used to install radiators in apartments with a two-pipe heating system.

The conductive pipe must be connected to the upper radiator pipe, and the return pipe to the lower one, on the other side. This method is used to install radiators in an apartment with a two-pipe heating system. The advantage of this method is maximum heat transfer from the coolant.

The supply pipe is laid below the return pipe. The coolant moves along the riser from bottom to top. The air leaves the system through the Mayevsky valves. This radiator connection system is suitable for heating low-rise buildings, private houses.

* Battery delivery is free if you purchase and install the battery in our company.

Battery leaking? Do you want to replace your old bulky cast iron battery with a compact and more economical bimetallic one?

Installing a heating radiator

Before starting work, consider some nuances:

• Before replacing the battery, the water should be turned off only in the customer’s apartment, and not in the entire house.

• Only housing office employees who have the appropriate qualifications for this should shut off the water. Even if you replace the battery yourself, entrust this task to specialists. Otherwise, you risk leaving all residents whose apartments are located along the riser without water supply.

• Battery replacement, ideally, should also be carried out by housing office employees or workers specially hired for this. If the customer carried out the removal and installation independently, then all responsibility for the serviceability of the system falls on him.

• Installation and replacement of the battery when using the pipe bending method and gas welding, instead of the usual installation system, must also be carried out by workers who have certain qualifications to carry out work at an increased level of safety.

Selection and installation of different types of radiators

The market today includes radiators made of cast iron, aluminum, steel, as well as bimetallic radiators. How to choose the right one among them?

Cast iron radiators

Modern cast-iron radiators are no longer the bulky accordions we are used to seeing in “Khrushchev” buildings and most Soviet apartments. Today they look like flat panels with smooth corners and a presentable appearance. Due to its physical properties, cast iron, when heated, retains heat for a long time, gradually releasing it to the room.

Advantages: improved heat transfer, service life of about 25-50 years. Disadvantages: heavy weight(one section cast iron battery weighs about 8 kg), therefore the installation of heating radiators made of cast iron is impossible in a number of rooms whose walls are made of wood or, for example, plasterboard. The only option for mounting a radiator in such houses is through the wall. In addition, due to the rough surface and small gaps between sections, such radiators are difficult to clean.

Flaws: heavy weight (one section of a cast iron battery weighs about 8 kg), therefore the installation of heating radiators made of cast iron is impossible in a number of rooms whose walls are made of wood or, for example, plasterboard. The only option for mounting a radiator in such houses is through the wall. In addition, due to the rough surface and small gaps between sections, such radiators are difficult to clean.

Manufacturers: The MS-140 model or the so-called “accordion” is an eternal classic, well known to all of us. Transformed cast iron radiators can be found in the catalogs VIADRUS (Czech Republic), ROCA (Spain) and FERROLI (Italy), as well as domestic producers− CHAZ (Cheboksary Aggregate Plant) or MZOO (Belarus). Price: from $8 per section.

Aluminum radiators

In design, modern aluminum radiators are not much different from cast iron ones. However, the significant difference between them is the weight of the radiator sections.

Advantages: good heat transfer rates, the presence of ventilation windows that evenly distribute warm air throughout the room, the weight of the sections (only 1 kg!), smooth surface, can be fixed to any surface.

Flaws: sensitivity to the chemical composition of water, pressure surges in the pipeline.

Manufacturers: Due to the fact that a small radiator can heat a relatively large area, on the market you can find models from 80-100 mm in depth and center-to-center distance from 300 to 800 mm, and the number of sections in the radiator from 4 to 16. Italian-made models are more common: radiators companies FONDITAL, DECORAL, RAGALL, FARAL, as well as a number of domestically produced radiators - SMK (Stupino) and MMZiK (Mias). Price: from $12 per section.

Bimetallic radiators

It can be said that this type radiators are a compromise between cast iron and aluminum. Externally, bimetallic radiators are difficult to distinguish from aluminum ones, however, such products are not sensitive to the composition of water and changes in pressure. The universal design of such heating radiators directs hot water through steel pipes that release heat aluminum panels, and they heat the air in the room. Installing a heating radiator of this type is the best option both in terms of price and physical properties of the product.

Advantages: weight, improved battery design, good heat transfer performance.

Flaws: not yet discovered.

Manufacturers: On the market you can find products mainly from Italian (SIRA, GLOBAL) and Czech manufacturers (ARMATHERMAL). Among the domestic ones, the best radiators are rightfully considered to be RIFAR (Gai, Orenburg region), TsVELIT-R (Ryazan) and SANTEKHPROM (Moscow). Price: from $15 per section.

Steel radiators

Based on the above general rules location of the radiator relative to the window, mark the installation locations of the fasteners.

If necessary, cover the wall surface with heat-reflecting material and secure the brackets to the wall (be sure to use a level to determine the horizontal position, as well as a tape measure to determine the length of the bracket insertion into the wall).

Secure the radiator to the brackets, placing their hooks between the battery sections.
Connect the radiator to a centralized or autonomous heating system according to the selected connection diagram.

Aluminum radiators can be installed in both single- and two-pipe heating systems with horizontal or vertical piping. These radiators can also be used for heating rooms with natural and forced circulation of hot water. Today the market can offer two options for aluminum radiators:

• Reinforced radiators with operating pressure up to 16 atm. Such batteries are used for heating high-rise residential and non-residential buildings. For heating a private home, the use of this type of radiator is unjustified due to the high cost of the sections.

• European type of aluminum radiators, designed for heating rooms with autonomous heating systems. The maximum operating pressure in such radiators is no more than 6 atm.

The installation kit for aluminum radiators consists of:

• automatic or manual air release valve (the so-called Mayevsky valve);
• plugs (right or left thread);
• sealing gaskets;
• racks or brackets;
• shut-off or thermostatic valves.

Installation of cast iron radiators

The installation of cast iron radiators is essentially no different procedurally from the installation of aluminum heating devices. In case of cast iron products it is important, however, not to overload the wall, and also to pay more attention to torque moments. Cast iron radiators are recommended to be installed at a slight slope so that the inside of the radiator does not accumulate hot air(this may lead to a decrease in the heat output of the device).

Cast iron radiators also have a different assembly system from others: before installation, such a radiator must be unscrewed, the nipples must be tightened, and the radiator must be assembled again. For fastening cast iron radiators in wooden houses and against walls that have a relatively weak structure, installation options are provided not on brackets, but on floor stands. At the same time, wall mounts are also made, but they only perform a supporting function.

Installation of bimetallic radiators

The advantages of installing bimetallic radiators rather than cast iron or aluminum are that they weigh relatively little and, provided that they are not inferior to aluminum ones in terms of heat transfer, bimetallic radiators are able to operate uninterruptedly even at high pressure in the system. Installation method and general recommendations instructions for installing such heating devices are indicated in the product instructions.

IMPORTANT! Pay attention to the manufacturer's recommendations regarding the use of pipes made of one material or another in combination with bimetallic radiators. So, for example, for most houses, installation of only metal pipes is provided, and metal-plastic can only be installed in private houses, whose heating system operates at high blood pressure.

$ Cost of installation of heating radiators

The cost of installing a radiator will directly depend on the material of the product, the number of sections installed for one heating point, as well as total heating points installed in the apartment. The total amount of installation costs will be influenced by both the connection diagram and the cost of components necessary for the work. Of course, you can do such work yourself. However, this will place full responsibility on you for the performance of the system, as well as for all possible Negative consequences associated with its breakdown. So, how much does it cost to install a radiator? On average, all work on arranging one heating point in an apartment can cost $40-50.

Radiator installation:

• Kyiv − 250-350 UAH. per point;
• Moscow − 2,650-3,000 rubles. per point.
• The cost of work on supplying or replacing heating pipes is calculated separately.

Radiator installation: VIDEO

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators: VIDEO

When installing a heating system ourselves, among other issues, we need to decide at what distance from the wall to hang the radiator. Although this aspect may not seem important enough to some, in fact, the efficiency of the system largely depends on compliance with the installation parameters.

In our article we will tell you why it is necessary to monitor the distance from the battery to surfaces, and also provide recommendations for installing a radiator on a wall or floor.

The importance of following installation parameters

Heating devices, as their name suggests, are installed in a room to heat it. At the same time, most radiator-type models are characterized by heat radiation from the entire surface, which imposes certain restrictions on installation.

As a rule, the distance from the wall to the heating radiator is from 25 to 60 mm. This value is determined, in fact, by two parameters: the fundamental possibility of installation (the size of the window sill, the dimensions of the niche, etc.), as well as the power of the device.

Note!
The more powerful the device and the higher its heat output, the larger the gap should be between the back surface and the wall.

It is not recommended to install the battery close to the wall, and here's why:

• Firstly, for effective heat exchange between the radiator material and the air, it is necessary to ensure at least a minimum level of circulation. In a small gap, the air remains almost motionless, and therefore some of the heat is lost.
• Secondly, in too narrow space A high temperature is constantly maintained between the rear wall of the radiator and the wall surface. Because of this, the level of heat dissipation decreases, the battery wall overheats, and the device fails earlier.

Note!
This is important for both water radiators and electric heaters.
For the former, with constant overheating, corrosion is activated, for the latter, the risk of a short circuit increases.

• Finally, the narrow gap very quickly becomes clogged with dust, which can be extremely inconvenient to remove during cleaning.. If you leave dust where it has accumulated, then overheating and problems with heat dissipation will begin to appear quite quickly.

It is based on these considerations that experts decide what distance between the wall and the radiator needs to be maintained. Well, we will tell you below how to implement this in practice.

Installation method

Wall option

When doing installation work yourself, it is much easier to mount the battery on the wall. This task is less labor intensive compared to floor mounting, but at the same time all operations must be performed very efficiently.

The installation process itself includes the following steps:

As you can see, the instructions are not complicated, but you need to control the quality of the work at every stage.

Floor option

Sometimes the battery turns out to be too heavy to hang on the wall - there is a risk that the material simply will not hold up. In this case, installation is carried out using floor brackets. Yes, the price of such products will be slightly higher than that of wall mounts, however, the margin of safety is incomparable.

The installation process itself involves the following steps:

• Selecting a pair of brackets load bearing capacity which is sufficient to support the weight of the battery.
• We install racks on the base of the floor, which we fix with anchors. We select the distance from the wall so that the minimum gap between it and the mounted radiator is 60 mm.

Advice!
It is better to mount the floor brackets before pouring the screed - this way we can disguise the attachment point.

• We fill the screed, hiding the bases of the brackets and the caps of the mounting anchors.
• We put hooks on the racks, set them to the desired height and secure them with bolts. If the product package includes this, we install it. metal gaskets, which will protect the radiator material at the point of contact with the hook.
• We hang the radiator on the hooks, which we then carefully level.

Despite the great complexity of implementation, this system has obvious advantages: the load from the battery is transferred not to the wall, but to the floor, so the risk of loosening the fasteners will be minimal.

Conclusion

You can ensure the distance between the wall and the heating radiator necessary for effective heat exchange different ways. It is important to make this gap sufficient for air to circulate freely in the gap, making heating of the room as efficient as possible. For a more detailed study of the technique, it is worth watching the video in this article.

heating in an apartment is correct and inexpensive way bring warmth back to your apartment. In addition, this cannot be called a complicated process; it is only important to follow all the installation nuances and installation rules.

Battery connection examples.

Preparatory work

Before starting work, you need to consider some nuances:

Connecting the battery can be entrusted to a qualified specialist who will do all the work quickly and efficiently.

1. You should not replace the battery yourself, but it is better to entrust this task to a specialist, who will bear all responsibility for further malfunctions in the operation of the radiator. In addition, when replacing it yourself, there is a risk of leaving all the residents of the building, whose apartments are located along the riser, without water. Before work in the apartment, water should be turned off only by housing office employees who have the appropriate qualifications.
2. If during installation and replacement the pipe bending method and gas welding work are used, then the work must also be carried out by workers with certain qualifications to carry out work with increased safety.

Radiator selection

Available on the market today a wide range of radiators designed for different buyers. The principle “the more expensive the better” does not always work here. You need to make your choice based on the following reasons:

• places of residence;
• wiring heating system;
• on how the heating radiators will need to be installed;
• temperature conditions in the heating system;
• accounting for what material was used in the production of pipes;
• the need for control elements and fittings;
• location of the premises in the building.

Having produced this analysis, you can proceed to selecting a battery.

Today, cast iron radiators can look quite presentable; they can be decorated. Thus, they can easily fit into the overall design of the room.

Cast iron radiators modern type- these are no longer the huge accordions that were in Soviet apartment, but flat panels with smoothed corners and a presentable appearance. Having good physical properties heating, cast iron retains heat for a long time and gradually releases it into the room. Such radiators have long term service, 20-50 years. The main disadvantage is their large weight (one section weighs about 8 kg), so it is impossible to install them correctly in rooms where the walls are made of wood or plasterboard. Having rough surface, they are not very easy to clean.

Aluminum radiators differ little in design from cast iron ones; the only difference is the weight of the sections (1 kg). Also, such devices have good qualities heat transfer, smooth surface, ventilation windows evenly distribute air in the room; they can be attached to any surface. The main disadvantage is that it is easy to perceive chemical composition water and pressure surges in the pipeline.

Bimetallic radiators are a compromise solution between cast iron and aluminum. Externally they are almost no different from aluminum ones, but are not sensitive to the composition of water and pressure surges. They have good heat transfer performance, are easy to install and are inexpensive.

Steel radiators have a panel appearance and a relief surface. They have various connection options and good thermal properties. No major deficiencies were identified.

Radiator installation rules

Before replacement, you need to agree on the installation diagram with specialists, which will allow you to carry out installation work correctly and effectively heat the room. The following sequence of actions must be followed:

1. Shut off the water in the apartment and in a specific area.
2. Drain the water from the area to be replaced.
3. Blow out the pipes and remove the remaining water.
4. Install a new battery based on the installation instructions and manufacturer's recommendations.
5. After installation, test the system for leaks and operation of the radiator sections.

Attention! When choosing a radiator, take into account the temperature heating power, the area for normal heating with a certain number of sections, and the operating pressure of the coolant.

Radiator installation rules according to SNiP

Installation of radiators indoors must be carried out in accordance with SNiP 3.05.01-85.

There should be at least 2 cm from the radiator to the wall.

1. The standard for installing radiators correctly assumes that the radiator is installed relative to the center of the window: the center of the window and the radiator must coincide, with an error of no more than 2 cm.
2. The width of the battery should be equal to 50-70% of the width of the window sill.
3. The height of the battery above the floor should not be more than 12 cm from the finished floor, the distance from the top edge of the battery to the window sill should not be more than 5 cm.
4. The distance from the radiator to the wall is 2-5 cm. An exception may be special processing walls with heat-reflecting material.

Attention! The radiator should not be installed too close to the floor or wall, as this will affect the heat transfer performance. In single-pipe heating systems, it is impossible to use a larger number of sections than was previously available. In systems with artificial water circulation, if the number of sections is more than 24, during installation it is necessary to use a versatile method for connecting heating devices.

Rules for installing aluminum radiators

1. Correctly assemble the radiator by screwing in the radiator plugs, plugs and gaskets, install thermostatic valves, shut-off valves, and Mayevsky valve.
2. Following the general rules for positioning the radiator relative to the window, mark the mounting locations.
3. If necessary, cover the wall surface with heat-reflecting material and attach the brackets to the wall.
4. Secure the radiator to the brackets, placing hooks between the sections, and connect to the centralized or room.

Mount aluminum radiators possible in both single-pipe and two-pipe heating systems with vertical and horizontal pipelines. Today's market can offer two types of aluminum radiators: reinforced radiators with a pressure of up to 16 atm., which are used for heating high-rise buildings, and European aluminum radiators no more than 6 atm., used for heating in autonomous systems heating.

Rules for installing cast iron and bimetallic radiators

The process is not much different from installing aluminum ones. Here it is important not to overload the wall, and it is recommended to install them at a slight angle so that hot air does not accumulate inside the battery, which leads to low heat transfer from the device.

Before installation, you need to properly unscrew the radiator, tighten the nipples, and put everything back together again. IN wooden houses, which have a weaker wall structure, are provided for mounting not on brackets, but on floor stands, while wall mountings have a supporting function.

The heat supply system is an integral part of the engineering systems installed in every home. And its arrangement must be treated with special attention. This also applies to the assembly of pipelines and the hanging of heating radiators. After all, even a small problem can lead to global consequences, so it is important to know how to properly hang a heating radiator.

Work on installing radiators must begin with determining their connection diagram. In practice, 3 methods are used, they are defined by building regulations:

1. Side. They are used very often, since it is the one that provides maximum thermal output.
2. Diagonal. Most effective when connecting long heating appliances.
3. Bottom connection. Used for heat supply systems from pipes, which are placed directly under the floor covering.

Instructions for installing heating radiators

After the connection diagrams have been determined and heating batteries have been purchased, you need to find and carefully study SNiP 3.05.01 - 85. It sets out the requirements for installing heating radiators. Most manufacturing companies include detailed instructions for installing heating devices with their products. If you follow the requirements of regulatory and operational documentation, then there should be no problems with installing radiators.

The main requirement is compliance with the dimensions of the heating radiator mounting relative to the floor and wall. Otherwise, the heated air will not circulate well, and the operating efficiency thermal device will fall greatly. Requirements regulatory documentation it is determined that the distance to the inner surface of the window sill and to the floor covering should not be less than 100 mm. Practice shows that 120 mm will be optimal.

Distance from interior wall The niche to the rear surface of the radiator should not be less than ¾ of the depth of the mounted battery. If the specified dimensions are not observed, then, as already noted, the efficiency heat flow will decrease. If the heating device is not mounted in a niche located under the window, but directly near the wall, then the marked distances should not be less than 200 mm. Neglecting the established indicators will lead to obstruction of the movement of warm air and accumulation of dust on the rear wall.

What tools are needed for installation work?

In order to complete the work of installing a heating battery, you need to do a little preparatory work and prepare the tool.

During installation the following will be useful:

• perforator;
• drill (its diameter is determined by the size of the dowel into which the bracket will be screwed);
• roulette;
• building level;
• locksmith tool.

Heating radiator assembly procedure

Before you begin installing the battery, you need to determine the location of the fasteners. The number of fasteners is determined by the size of the heating device. But even when installing a radiator with minimal dimensions, the number of attachment points should not be less than three.

The next step is to install the brackets to mount the battery. To increase the reliability of the system, you can use dowels or cement mortar. Work on installing the battery must begin by checking the radiator configuration. Then you can begin installing the components (plugs, fasteners, adapters) onto the heating device.

The requirements of regulatory documentation determine that automatic air vents must be installed on heating radiators. If possible, it is advisable to use a Mayevsky crane.

Mayevsky crane

In addition to the devices installed on the heating radiator, it makes sense to mount Ball Valves. Their presence will allow you to avoid difficulties with dismantling if repairs are necessary. By turning off the taps, the radiator can be easily removed.

It would not be superfluous to install thermostats. Their presence will allow you to regulate the heat supply to heating devices, which will create a comfortable temperature in each room.

After installing all devices and fittings, you can connect the pipelines. The method of connecting them to the radiator (traditional welding, crimping or threaded connection) depends on the scheme of its inclusion in the heat supply system. The type of connection between the pipes and the battery is determined by the material from which they are made.

On last stage The heating system must be tested. It must be remembered that during the tests, pressure 1.5-2 times higher than the nominal pressure is supplied to the pipes and radiators. It is advisable to keep the system under temperature for some time. high blood pressure. This will help installers see how joints on pipes and connections to radiators behave.

Important! The coolant must be supplied both during testing and when starting the system by gradually opening the tap. Otherwise, you can provoke a phenomenon such as water hammer, which can lead to the destruction of components of the thermal energy supply system.

After installing the radiator on the installed fasteners, it is necessary to check the correctness of its placement in the horizontal and vertical planes.

It is allowed to lift the edge of the radiator on which the air vent is located. This will ensure that the air trapped in the system accumulates at the highest possible point, and its release will be carried out quickly and with maximum efficiency.

But a change in level of more than one centimeter is unacceptable, as is a reverse tilt. In this case, education is guaranteed air lock, and the supply of coolant further along the pipeline will be limited or stopped.

Advice! Almost all companies producing heating devices require installers to install only on pre-prepared walls. That is, the surface must be smooth and clean. This will allow you to correctly mark the locations for fasteners.

The heating radiator is hung on two hooks (brackets), which are located in the upper part, and the third must be installed as a support for the lower edge of the device. The installation worker must remember that the number of brackets is determined by the weight and length of the battery.

High-quality heating is the key to a favorable climate in the house and the absence of cold weather even in the most severe frosts. Therefore, if you have an old and ineffective radiator in your apartment or cottage, then it is worth replacing it. At first glance, this seems very difficult work, accessible only to specialized specialists with significant experience. But with the right attitude and the availability of some tools, installing heating radiators with your own hands does not pose a serious problem.

Rules for battery location and connection diagrams

In addition to the characteristics, it is very important, one of the factors influencing the efficiency of the heating system is the choice right place for product placement. True, in most cases it is predetermined in advance - the new battery will most likely stand in place of the old cast-iron one, which has been there since the building was built. But still, here are some recommendations for proper placement of the radiator.

Firstly, it is advisable to place the battery under a window. The fact is that it is a “bridge” through which the cold from the street enters the apartment or cottage. The presence of a radiator under the window forms a kind of “ thermal curtain", interfering with the process described above. In this case, the battery should be placed strictly in the middle of the window, and, preferably, occupy up to 70-80% of its width. You can see what it is and how to install it on our page.

Secondly, there should be at least 80-120 mm from the floor to the radiator. If it is less, it will be inconvenient to clean under the battery; a huge amount of dust and debris will accumulate there. And if the radiator is located higher, a certain amount of cold air will collect under it, which requires heating and, as a result, worsens the operation of the heating system. In addition, too short a distance to the windowsill negatively affects the battery efficiency.

Thirdly, a distance of 2.5-3 cm is allowed between the back of the radiator and the wall. If it is smaller, the processes of convection and movement of warm air flows are disrupted, and, as a result, the battery works less efficiently and wastes some of the heat.

Table. Standard schemes connecting heating batteries.

Video - Replacing heating radiators in winter

Installing a heating battery with your own hands - step-by-step instructions

Let's consider the process of installing a bimetallic battery connected sideways to single pipe system heating. It is worth saying that in in this case the work was carried out in a building where the temperature in the radiators was relatively low, therefore the liner and bypass were made of metal-plastic pipes. Before the beginning self-installation batteries, familiarize yourself with the design and characteristics of the heating system in your home. Perhaps for your apartment or cottage connecting pipes will need to be made from materials with greater resistance to high temperatures.

Let's divide the process of installing a heating battery with our own hands into several separate stages:

• dismantling the old radiator;
• installation of a new bypass and shut-off valves;
• installing the battery and connecting it to the connection.

Preparing for work. Removing the old battery

Do-it-yourself installation of a heating battery begins with preparing the tools and dismantling the old radiator. In this example, we will be talking about a standard cast iron product, which still heats many apartments. How to install , You can read in our article.

Step 1. Bring home a new battery. Unpack it, check that everything you bought is in place. Also inspect the radiator itself to see if it has any damage or defects.

Step 2. Cut the packaging new battery into two equal parts. Use one as a backing for the radiator - this way you won’t scratch it. flooring. Place the second part of the package behind the heating riser - when dismantling using a grinder, a sheet of cardboard will protect the wall from contamination.

Step 3. Prepare everything you need to dismantle the old and install a new radiator - fittings, taps, pipes, tools. Determine for yourself what should be located where - searching for something necessary for installation, but lost in the clutter, can significantly slow down the work of replacing the battery.

Step 4. Remove the three-way valve connecting the heating riser, bypass and supply line. First, loosen it with an adjustable wrench. If water starts to drip, immediately screw everything back in - most likely, the riser was not closed properly. And if everything is in order, continue working on dismantling the crane.

Step 5. Next, disconnect old battery and liner from the riser. First, unscrew the nut on the thread strip. Then determine how far this thread can be cut so that you can then mount a tee connecting the inlet, bypass and riser without any problems.

Advice! In some cases old paint applied to the nut and the connection of the riser with the bypass and liner may interfere with operation. You can remove it using a regular knife with a retractable blade or a metal brush.

Step 6. Remove the battery from its mounts.

Step 7 Using a grinder, trim according to the previously determined mark on the threads connecting the heating riser to the battery.

Step 8 Remove the old battery and take it somewhere where it will not be in the way further work. Considering the high mass cast iron radiator, do this in pairs with someone if possible.

Step 9 Remove the old battery mounts from the wall. If they hold particularly tightly, use a hammer and chisel.

Replacing heating radiators yourself or even installing heating radiators from scratch is not so much a complicated process as it is a painstaking one. What a plumber can do in a couple of hours may take an amateur several days. However, do-it-yourself work will stimulate new achievements, save a considerable amount of money and may even bring pleasure, especially if you prepare for the process in advance and provide for all the subtleties.

When is the best time to install batteries?

The installation of heating radiators, unless it is an emergency, of course, should take place in the off-season. The centralized heating is turned off in the spring, for several days - a couple of weeks the utility companies drain the water from the system and will only recharge it in the fall. In general, the time to install radiators is from April to October.

In a house with its own heating or an apartment in which there is always water in the system, work on installing batteries should begin with emptying the heating system. At the same time, you can think about what batteries you need to buy.

It is important! If you are going to install new batteries in place of old ones, then you need to choose those that are identical in size to the previous ones. And for the parts that will be needed during installation, it is also important what kind of heating system in the house is one-pipe or two-pipe.

How to choose batteries?

There are four metals from which heating radiators are made:

1. Pure cast iron.
2. High quality steel.
3. Aluminum.
4. Connection of steel (copper) and aluminum.

To say that any battery will be ideal is wrong.

Cast iron batteries

This is the most heavy metal with sufficiently high heat transfer. Cast iron takes longer to warm up than other metals, but also retains heat longer. most often typesetting. One section weighs 10 kilograms (in Soviet models - 12). The cost of one section is 500 – 600 rubles. However, a designer model may also have a price in dollar terms, indicated by three or even four digits.

The minimum thermal power of one cast iron section is 150 W. Operating pressure at a level of 15 Atm. For heating a room with an area of ​​15 m2, with standard height ceilings and one double-glazed window, you need to buy about 10 cast iron sections. Information on how to more correctly calculate the number of battery sections will be provided in the subsection below.

The indisputable advantage of cast iron as a battery metal is that it can withstand coolant temperatures of up to 150 °C and is unpretentious to the composition of the water that will be in the battery.

The disadvantages of cast iron batteries are that they are very heavy and will have to be painted periodically.

Read a detailed review on our website.

Aluminum batteries

Manufacturers claim that aluminum radiators are the most common.

• The main advantage of aluminum is its excellent ability to conduct heat.
• The second advantage is that the most unusual designs heating batteries.
• And one last thing. Relatively inexpensive price.

Aluminum radiators have the highest thermal output. The power of one section is 192 W, the operating pressure is 16 Atm. It means that aluminum battery heats up very quickly.

However, there are also disadvantages. Aluminum battery:

1. Sensitive to pressure changes in the system. Experts say that with a sharp increase in pressure, an aluminum radiator can burst.
2. Requires only purified, softened water. Increased acidity liquid leads to faster internal corrosion metal

In general, aluminum radiators are best installed where the quality of the supply water is monitored.

Steel batteries

Steel radiators are not made in the form of sections; they are most often square or rectangular panels. The working pressure here is low - no higher than 8.7 Atm. The power of some manufacturers is stated to be within 20 W. Steel radiators are best used not for central heating.

Advantages of steel batteries:

1. Although small in size, they have high heat transfer. This means that a small battery will warm up a large room very quickly.
2. For high-quality heating of the room, the system should not have a very high coolant temperature.

These two advantages are balanced by disadvantages.

Attention! Steel radiators rust quickly. They must not be installed in rooms with high humidity. To prevent excessive corrosion, in a system where there is steel radiators, must be shut-off valves for draining water in the off-season.

Bimetallic radiators

The combination of metals can be like this:

1. Steel and aluminum.
2. Copper and aluminum.

Steel or copper core (this is inner part batteries) heats up quickly and gives off heat to aluminum (the battery body is made of it). The combination of two metals significantly increases thermal characteristics radiator Power bimetallic radiator– 185 W. If the internal part is made of copper, then the rated power should be 200 W.

Advantages:

• Chemical resistance to coolant.
• Increased strength.
• Light weight.
• High heat dissipation.

Flaws:

• High price.

Having decided on the price and quality for which you are willing to pay, it is worth calculating the required number of radiators.

Calculation of the number of sections for high-quality heating

A comfortable temperature for human life is 18 °C (unless, of course, you are lucky enough to live in Ukraine, where due to the lack of gas it is reduced to 14 °C). This temperature regime can be maintained as follows: per 1 m2 of area that is heated, there should be 100 watts of heating radiator power.

The required number of battery sections for comfortable temperature is calculated using the following formula:

S * 100 / P, where

S = room area

P = power of one heating section.

The area of ​​the room is 15 m2, the power of one section of the cast iron battery is 150 W. Means,

15 * 100 / 150 = 10

In total, to heat one room you need 10 sections of a cast iron battery.

Table: example of the number of radiator sections depending on the area of ​​the room

It is necessary to apply certain coefficients that take into account:

1. Ceiling height.
2. Availability of double glazed windows.
3. Number of storeys (top and lower floors have the highest coefficient).
4. Number of windows in the room.
5. Has insulation been done?
6. Where is the room? It is important whether it is angular.

For example, coefficient (K1), which depends on the quality of the windows:

— K1 = 0.85. This is a triple glazed unit.

— K1 = 1. This indicator is for double glazed windows.

— K1 = 1.27. Regular windows with double glazing and possibly wooden frames.

The K2 coefficient depends on the walls.

K2 = 0.85. New walls with insulation

K2 = 1. Brick walls and insulation.

K2 = 1.27. Panel house with walls without insulation.

Table of required heat supply radiator power

Calculation. To obtain the number of sections, divide the data from the table by the power of one section of the selected radiator (kW).

This is an incomplete list of coefficients. But the ratio of digital indicators and, for example, ceiling height or heating quality is the same as in the examples given above. Each of the coefficients is multiplied by the initial number of radiator sections. Ultimately, the result is a battery that will actually heat the space.

Installing a heating radiator

After the literature has been read, advice from experienced people has been received, the size of the radiators and the number of sections in them have been determined, the order has been made and the car with batteries is already on the way, it’s time to prepare what you will not be able to install without.

Preparatory stage

Almost always, batteries are located under the windows. If access to this part of the room is difficult, you need to free up as much space as possible. Move aside the cabinets, put away the TV, take down the curtains.

You need to know this! If you have to remove old batteries, then in any case, at least a little water will leak out of them. It will not be clean, like from a spring, and the likelihood that the water will stain the floor covering with rust is very high. Therefore, it is better to remove carpets and rugs before replacing batteries. And cover the laminate and parquet with a thick film.

When installing batteries you will need:

1. Bypass (if the heating system is single-pipe).
2. Adapters.
3. Couplings.
4. Nipples.
5. Corners.
6. Mayevsky cranes.

Mayevsky valve - for releasing air from radiators, opens using special key or screwdrivers

Sealant, winding, sealing tape, etc. will also not interfere with the work. adjustable wrenches. The remaining parts need to be purchased based on what kind of wiring is installed in the room.

Types of heating wiring

In total, there are 5 main types of wiring:

Options for radiator connection diagrams

Now you need to choose the right distance from the wall and window sill for each battery.

Distances to wall and window sill

In addition to the fact that all nuts and valves need to be tightened tightly (without overdoing it), it is also important to fulfill the following conditions:

• There should be at least 5, and preferably 10–15, centimeters from the top of the battery to the window sill.
• A distance of at least 10–12 centimeters must be maintained from the bottom of the battery to the floor.
• There should be at least 5 centimeters from the radiator to the wall.

Compliance with these rules will allow hot air to circulate better and rise up unhindered.

One of the many advantages of individual private housing is a heating network that is not tied to thermal power plants or boiler houses, and does not depend on the start and end dates of the general heating season and not experiencing all the delights of fickle pressure online. Heating installation is carried out at the request of the owner. He also decides which heating radiators are best for installation in a private home.

Choosing a radiator design

Local settings heating system — important characteristic when choosing heating. The private home system has the following advantages:

• operated at favorable conditions and low pressure;
• the quality of the coolant is much better than in systems of multi-storey buildings;
• there are no pressure surges, there is no threat of water hammer.

With such characteristics, the choice of radiator models is quite wide. When buying batteries, you should focus on a high efficiency with the right price-quality ratio. For home system devices made of any material are suitable.

Let's consider different designs batteries:

• Panel and sectional radiators are often the most inexpensive. With good heat dissipation they have compact dimensions. Can be installed in a heating system according to different schemes connections.

• Tubular batteries are more expensive than previous options, but on technical specifications approximately the same. The increased price is due to the more stylish design. They are also convenient for drying things.

Types of radiators by material of manufacture

Various batteries are suitable for installation in the private sector. Let's look at the features of each type.

Aluminum

They are widely used in private homes. Have a stylish modern design, as well as good thermal power. They heat up quickly when connected and cool down quickly when disconnected. The price range varies and depends on the manufacturer. The most expensive and high-quality ones are made by companies in Italy. Russian analogues are slightly inferior in operation. Their cost is much lower.

Cast iron

Such radiators are resistant to wear and corrosion, since inner surface from contact with water, it is coated with a composition that prevents the destruction of batteries. Can withstand high temperatures and pressure surges in the system. They take a long time to heat up and give off heat for a long time when switched off. Such devices require annual cleaning.

Bimetallic

They successfully combine such qualities as: the strength of cast iron and the effective heat transfer of aluminum. They have good resistance to pressure surges and are not subject to corrosion. Like aluminum analogues, they are in demand for their characteristics, but high price often scares off buyers.

Steel

Such radiators are characterized high heat transfer And original design. Stainless steel models have high cost. Cheaper designs are susceptible to corrosion.

Where are radiators mounted?

When choosing a place in a private house to install heating radiators, you need to proceed from the presence of windows. IN ordinary premises It is customary to place batteries under the windowsill.

Otherwise, the flow of cold air will descend along the wall and spread over the entire surface of the floor. An obstacle to this will be the installation of radiators below the window sills. For better protection from the cold, according to SNIPA standards, the battery should occupy at least 70% of the width of the window.

Important! A powerful radiator of the wrong size will not provide the required level of heating in the room. Cold air will “drain” onto the floor on the side of the battery. Condensation may form on the walls where warm and cold flows come into contact. This will lead to dampness. And the windows themselves will fog up.

When installing the battery under a window, you need to make sure that the window sill does not completely block the radiator. This can reduce the density of the warm air flowing and reduce its efficiency. If the radiators are hot and there are small children, you can cover the heating devices with special screens.

For private houses located in cold climate areas, radiators are mounted next to the door. The place is chosen closer to the entrance. Access to radiators must always be free.

Connection diagrams

The method of installing heating radiators in a private house determines: the efficiency of the entire structure and possible losses of heat energy.

The following schemes for connecting pipes and batteries will be more successful:

• Diagonal scheme. Considered the most effective option with maximum coefficient useful action. The coolant is supplied from the upper pipe on one side of the battery, and the return is located below on the other. The circuit received this name due to the diagonal arrangement of the connection points. In this case, the coolant is distributed more evenly, moving from top to bottom, filling the entire cavity of the radiator.
• Single sided or side diagram. With this option, the coolant supply pipe is located at the top, and the outlet pipe is at the bottom, and only on one side of the radiator. The heat is not always distributed evenly; the first few sections are hotter. This scheme works well in private homes with small area. But it is possible to increase the efficiency of such a connection by installing a circular pump.
• Bottom and saddle schemes. Such methods are convenient for pipes hidden under baseboards. In the first connection option, input and output occur at one point. With a saddle connection, the inlet and outlet pipes are located below on different sides of the battery. Despite the external aesthetics of these methods, they have a fairly large percentage of heat loss (almost up to 15%).

Selecting the necessary components

For the upcoming work, you need to prepare tools. We purchase taps, valves, valves, and thermostats from shut-off and connecting valves. For installation, adapters are needed to connect the parts different diameters: couplings, drives. Brackets and corners are purchased to secure devices to the wall. Bypasses (jumpers in the form of pipe sections) are also required, which are installed between two pipeline lines. It is necessary to check in advance that all elements are included so that during installation you do not have to search for missing parts.

When installing batteries, the possibility of hiding the heating system pipes under wall coverings is also taken into account. If there is casing decorative plastic or plasterboard, then packaging the load-bearing parts of the heating system in them will increase the aesthetic appearance of the room. The ends of the pipes with the existing threads are brought out. This is done so that during subsequent installations of radiators there is no need to damage the wall covering. Required Parts for installation are selected taking into account the thread diameter.

Modern methods of connecting pipes include both welding and threaded assembly. Both options do not affect the battery life or the level of their warming up, but they differ in several respects. For example, welding seams are more reliable, while threads are susceptible to mechanical stress and vibration. In addition, in older houses it is often impossible to thread pipes. The way out is welding.

But in new houses they install pipes from modern materials, such as: polypropylene, metal-plastic. Welding is no longer used to connect them.

Marking the wall for brackets

When installing a heating system with natural circulation in a private house, the pipelines are located at an angle of at least 6° to the direction in which the coolant flows. If this is not done, air bubbles may form and air plugs may appear.

We apply markings to the location of the future radiator for installing holders.

Do not forget! The radiator cannot be hung close to the wall. The efficiency of such an installation will be low. There should be a space of 5-10 cm between the surfaces. The battery is mounted from the floor at a distance of 10-12 cm and from the window sill - 8-10 cm.

Markings for the future heating device are made strictly according to the level. Use a pencil to mark the installation locations of the brackets. They are attached in such a way that they are located in the spaces between the radiator sections. And we select the brackets themselves in accordance with the purchased batteries, their weight and dimensions.

Having marked the necessary points, holes are drilled required diameter under fastenings. All that remains is to fix the dowels with a hammer and secure the brackets using self-tapping screws. There are special mounts for batteries that are threaded and screwed directly into the dowel.

How many brackets are needed for a specific battery? A store salesperson can help with this issue. building materials. Usually, 3 mounts are purchased for a device in six sections: two are installed at the top, one at the bottom.

To reduce heat loss, a layer of foil or thin heat insulator with a foil surface is fixed to the wall. But it is imperative to leave a gap of at least 2-3 cm between it and the radiator. Such a simple design will make heat transfer from the heating device somewhat more efficient.

Calculation of the required radiator power

Having chosen the brand of batteries, it is worth calculating the power for specific premises. Exist complex formulas, from which you can calculate how much heat energy is required to heat the area of ​​a particular room. But you can estimate approximately: for heating 1 m³ modern house you need 20 watts. Having calculated the volume of the room, we multiply the resulting value by 20 and divide by the power of one battery section. What happened in the end is this required quantity sections to a specific room. If there are old ones on the windows wooden frames, 15% is added to the indicator.

To replace and install all radiators, the heating system is completely shut off, both in private and apartment building. The water remaining in the pipes is drained. And its remains are pumped out using a pump.

Radiator assembly

Before installing the radiator, it needs to be assembled. Disconnect part with threaded connection and wrap this place with winding. To do this, use tow with oil paint or more modern version- sealing paste that can withstand high temperatures. A special fum tape is also used to help seal the pipe joints.

Before winding, apply a wide layer of paste onto the thread and distribute the composition over the joint. The prepared tow strip is wrapped around the pipe in the direction of the thread.

Next, we put the nut from the faucet on the part with the tow and carefully screw the entire structure into the battery plug. We do this first by hand, and then tighten it with a wrench. In the same way we install Mayevsky taps and plugs on inactive pipes.

Advice! Instead of tow windings, you can use standard gaskets.

Installation and Installation

Let's compose step-by-step plan all work on installing batteries in a private house.

1. Marking and installation of fasteners.
2. Mounting all components on the battery.
3. Mandatory installation of an air vent. He might be like automatic type, so with manual adjustment. This device is screwed into the adapter and installed opposite the place where the coolant supply pipe is connected.
4. If the diameters of the water supply and drain pipes do not match with the radiator pipes, adapters are used. They are available in standard set to connect.
5. Installation of regulating and locking devices. Experts advise that you must install ball valves, which help shut off the flow of coolant to a specific radiator in case it is repaired without stopping the entire system.
6. Mounting radiators on brackets.
7. Connecting pipes with the supply and removal of coolant to the radiator, depending on the selected scheme. The choice of method (welding, threading, crimping) depends on the material of the pipes and the fittings used.
8. Checking the supply of coolant to the system or pressure testing. To turn on the coolant supply to the heating system of a private house, the valves must be opened slowly. Sudden jerks and full rotation of the tap will lead to destruction of the heating system and rupture of connecting fittings.

Do not forget! Radiators are sold in packaging film. Do not remove it completely during installation installation work. Then you won’t have to clean the batteries from contamination. Only the connections with the pipes are freed from the film.