How to install guides on pull-out cabinets. Installation of telescopic (ball) guides on a drawer. Determining the dimensions of drawer components

I’ve been meaning to write a lesson on working with roller guides for a long time. Finally, I was worthy. I have already posted the additive diagrams here. Now it's just bare practice. For example, I will assemble a simple bedside table with three drawers.

Let's start with the boxes. They are assembled easily and simply (a pair in each corner). The side walls are overhead, that is, the confirmations on them are screwed into the face, and the front and rear walls are inset, that is, into their end.

Then we put it in place back wall, carefully level it and first fasten it with three nails (two in one wall and one in the adjacent one) so that the bottom does not move.

After this, we turn the box over and use a tape measure or ruler to check its diagonals. They must be equal.
If not, we tear out the lone nail, bend the box as necessary and hammer it back. Once the geometry of the box has been adjusted, you can screw the bottom onto a permanent base (with self-tapping screws). Moreover, we simply use screws in the front and rear walls, and we immediately attach a guide to the side ones. First, we apply it, level it and drill the holes with a thin drill.

Then we screw self-tapping screws into these holes.

We're done with the boxes for now, let's move on to marking the racks. I use the following technique (minimum mathematics). So, first we mark the boundaries of the facades with interfacade spaces on the front edge of the rack. You can not apply the facades, but simply use a ruler, but this will be more clear.

Please note that the lower facade of the invoice, that is, it covers the lower horizon, and, therefore, it is necessary to retreat 16 mm less from the lower edge of the rack.

Now we mark the guides themselves. To do this, you need to figure out how the drawers will be located: they should be closer to the bottom edge of the facades, but not protrude beyond their dimensions; the guides on the drawers themselves are located strictly below. For greater clarity, you can attach the guides to the racks and see how they will look (we focus on our facade marks). I usually move up 20 mm from the edge of the facade and draw a perpendicular to the front edge.

On this perpendicular we set aside 37 mm and prick this point with an awl (this turns out to be the center of the second hole on the guide.

We lay it on marking line so that it can be seen in all openings. We screw a self-tapping screw into the first hole, and prick another point on the pencil line (in the center of the hole in the guide). We also wrap a self-tapping screw into it (you can reinforce it with another one, but in this example we will limit ourselves to a couple).

Please note that the front edge of the guide is 2 mm from the edge of the post.

We repeat this manipulation for all three pairs of guides (that is, for both racks).

In principle, the addition of the retractable system ends here, but let’s finish the bedside table to the end.

We assemble the box (we screw the lower horizon with legs onto the confirmations).

We put the back wall in the grooves, (we fasten it with corners) we fix the upper horizon on mounting angles(you can use minifixes, which is more difficult, but more accurate).

We set the average horizon. In principle, the cabinet box is ready.

We install the boxes themselves inside the box. Holes for self-tapping screws (for) are drilled into the front walls. Double-sided tape is used for this purpose. We mark and attach a handle-bracket to each façade. Screws must be used with a countersunk head, or their heads must be recessed)

All that remains is to secure the facades themselves to the drawers. I have already described the technology in detail - I won’t dwell on it.

In general, as a result of all the manipulations, we got this simple and neat bedside table for the clinic.

Set of guides, telescopic, full drawer extension.

Calculation of parts for a drawer for this guide.

Before making calculations, be sure to double-check the thickness of the guides themselves, it varies. For this example it will look like this (box length 500 mm):

The result is a drawer like this, here in the photo it’s a drawer in a bed. That’s what we’ll be installing “telescopes” for today.

We will look at an example of making the box itself in a separate article.

At the beginning, for ease of fastening, we will work a little with the guides themselves, namely, we will break out one of these pieces, as in the following photos. In the future, thanks to this, it will be much more convenient to use a screwdriver to tighten the counter screw.

You should break it out only from the side of the stopper, where there are two of these “antennae”. We break out the outermost one. Now let’s start marking the mounting locations for the guides.

We draw a line somewhere approximately in the middle of the side of the box. This line should then correspond with the corresponding marking line on the side of the main structure, the bed frame. We select the height of the lines so that the fixed drawer, when opening, does not touch either the upper or lower edges of the bed.

For comfortable opening, 10 mm gaps are sufficient both at the top and bottom. It is advisable to take into account all the gaps at the stage of drawing up the details, in order to avoid unnecessary work when it suddenly turns out that the box clings to other parts. We begin to fasten the guide from the narrowest free end. We fasten it with three self-tapping screws: at the beginning, in the middle and at the edge.

We place the guide at a distance of 4 mm from the edge of the side of the drawer. This is done so that the front fits tightly into place when closing the drawer, since this type the guides do not have mechanical closers for closing. If the indentation is not made, then the drawer will still, of course, close tightly, but only this will require a stronger movement so that the ball bearing of the guide reaches its stop. This is especially noticeable when the box is heavily loaded.

Fastening to the middle screw and fastening to the outer self-tapping screw (that's why we needed to break off the last "mustache").

The guide on the box is fixed, now we move on to attaching it to the bed frame. So, with these guides, the box turns out to be non-removable; we need to transfer the center line as accurately as possible to the sides of the box (taking into account all the gaps) in order to avoid its skewing.

After everything has been marked, we insert the box with guides into the bed frame and fasten it to the frame also with three self-tapping screws: edge, middle, beginning. One by one, pulling out the drawer and tightening the screws. At the same time, the order of fastening changes for convenience. We start from the edge, then fasten the middle, and the most last screw install at the beginning, in the last mounting hole.

Guides ball type widespread in furniture industry. They are mounted on drawer drawers of chests of drawers, tables, cabinets, and cabinets. They are practical, durable, hardy, and easy to use. However, all these functions are performed under one condition - if the ball guides for drawers are installed correctly. This, in essence, is the specificity of installing the main furniture parts.

More about the design

Ball guides are sold as a set (2 pieces for each side of the furniture drawer). They consist of a pair of symmetrical telescopic runners made of steel: left and right. Each strip is disassembled into 2 parts - wide and narrow. The first is attached to the wall of a piece of furniture, the second - to the drawer itself. Before you begin, you should understand in detail how to install correctly in order to avoid distortions and errors.

Important: There are two types of fittings, they differ in the principle of operation. There are full and partial extension designs, so it’s worth understanding how to attach both types of ball guides.

The parts of the runners move along each other using metal ball bearings. Their operation ensures smooth running. The designs themselves are light, almost unnoticeable, very comfortable and functional. They allow you to quickly, silently and in the complete absence of unpleasant friction (it can damage furniture) to pull out the cells. You can literally operate them with one hand if you managed to attach the parts correctly. How to properly install ball guides for drawers? First of all, it’s worth familiarizing yourself with the design in more detail.

Purpose of holes

Anyone who has ever seen the parts up close has noted that the runners have different shapes holes:

• round;
• vertical;
• horizontal.

This configuration is given to the holes for a reason. Each type is endowed with certain functions. Thus, horizontal ones provide the ability to extend the guide 1–2 mm forward or backward. Vertical ones allow you to adjust their height (the guide can be moved up or down by 1–2 mm). And the round holes are precisely intended for fixing the runners in the exact position.

Important: adjustment of the fastening in several planes is necessary to align the slats, since distortions may occur during installation.

Where to begin

Installing fittings immediately raises 3 questions:

1. How to record the details of full and incomplete extension?
2. How to attach them to furniture?
3. Where to begin?

First of all, you need to decide on the type of product. Collapsible (fully retractable) ones are more convenient; you can separate them into parts and install them one by one. Constructions of another type are more practical and neat. When deciding how to install ball guides on dresser drawers, you should pay attention to aligning their position. You need to start by adjusting the horizontal holes. If you can’t secure the runners flush with the front (front) wall of the box, you can move them back a little. Thus, it became clear how to install the full extension guides. Video from a clear example can be viewed on the Internet: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c-FygNBbwVg.

Important: Horizontal recesses should be used temporarily. Once you have found the optimal position of the part, you should lock it with a self-tapping screw. Otherwise, over time the cell may change position.

Now let’s talk about how to install the partial extension ball guides. They are usually narrower and characterized by a non-demountable design. They should be installed assembled. Experts advise inserting the guides into the grooves of the sliding elements, and then fixing them with inside through the wall.

Fastening to furniture

How to install on a chest of drawers? Markings should be made on the wall of the furniture itself. Where you plan to mount the part, you need to draw a line. The removable part of the runners should be fixed along it. The location of the fittings is calculated based on the façade. It is important that they do not touch each other. The gap between the fronts in the extended position of the drawers must be at least 2 mm.

Important: When determining the position, the type of boxes should be taken into account. If they are equipped with overhead facades, then the fittings should be mounted flush with the side wall of the niche. Otherwise, when the finishing is internal, the parts are fixed from the back side of the end, retreating from the edge about 20 mm.

Now you need to solve the problem of how to install drawers on ball guides. If the parts are attached smoothly and correctly, then it is enough to insert the removable parts that are located on the box into the grooves of the fittings fixed on the side wall of the furniture. Then you need to connect them. They should close smoothly and gently. Pay attention to the latch so that it is secured in the closed position. A slight click indicates that the skids have connected correctly and the job has been completed successfully.

The design of ball guides is quite simple, and the mechanism itself consists of several main and a number of auxiliary parts. If the former include metal runners and balls, then the latter are represented by various locking elements and limiters made of both metal and plastic.

Ball guides are more technologically advanced, of higher quality and more durable.

They provide the best stability of retractable systems and ease of use.

To understand the principle of operation of the mechanism, let’s turn to the simplest representative of ball guides- two-section non-separable. In this case, there are two so-called rails, differing in size and having a specific U-shape, which allows you to place one part inside the other.

The action of this fitting is based on the mutual movement of durable steel tracks that make up the tire.

Between them (usually above and below) there are small balls, reminiscent of similar components of a bearing. The role of a locking element, preserving the integrity of the structure, is a part of the outer rail, which at a certain point limits the movement of the device.

Since the tracks are nested inside each other, such systems are called telescopic.

Depending on the intended use, ball guides can take different shape and have a unique set of functions. Most often they are divided according to the following characteristics:

• N the possibility of disassembly into collapsible and non-dismountable;
• TO the number of “steps” into two-section and multi-section;
• T type designs into single-level and multi-level.

Mounting options vary according to different models, and you can select the necessary types.

Installation can be carried out on the side surfaces of the drawers or in the grooves of the side surfaces.

Usually, final cost non-separable mechanisms are slightly lower than their fragmentable counterparts. This is due to the fact that the latter require special methods for producing rails and methods for attaching balls to them, which would allow the device to be freely disassembled and assembled without fear of losing small parts.

Durable steel balls move inside the profile, ensuring a stable easy glide boxes made of any material and any size.

The final price of the guides is also influenced by the number of steps provided, as well as the number of levels involved in the system. This happens for a similar reason - due to the significant complexity of the mechanism design.

Drawers in sliding wardrobes are often installed on ball guides.

The role of ball guides in furniture production

Despite the fact that the useful properties of telescopic devices have been appreciated in several fields of activity, the bulk of such mechanisms are used in the manufacture of various furniture.

The use of ball guides will ensure silent operation and increase permissible load, acting on the box.

A striking example are wardrobes with folding hanger rods, shoe cabinets and cabinets with drawers - in general, all those items that allow you to either save free space premises, or increase the comfort of living in it.

By installing ball guides, you ensure durable, uninterrupted operation of the sliding elements of your furniture.

Ball guides have a positive effect not only on convenience, but also on the efficiency of using furniture. It becomes much easier to remove and remove things, and thanks to free access, you can take up all the useful space of the closet.

Among the undeniable advantages of ball guides is the full extension of drawers.

Ball guides for drawer

The most common use of the mechanism is still drawers, which are equipped with all kinds of cabinets and cabinets. It is not difficult to make the listed household items yourself, but the drawing of the future product only seems complicated.

They are practically silent, have smooth running and much better decorative properties.

After everything necessary calculations are produced, and the body itself is built, you should switch to forming the drawers and securing the retractable device.

The set of ball guides consists of two steel symmetrical telescopic slides: left and right, each of which can be disassembled into two components.

There will also be no problems installing the latter on your own furniture, and before calculating the parameters of the cells, you should select a specific design of ball guides. This needs to be done because different representatives of the mechanisms have different sizes from others (first of all, the thickness is different).

The depth of the box should be equal to length guide.

There must be a gap of at least 10mm between the back of the chest of drawers and the back of the drawer.

Having decided on the type of telescopic devices, you can proceed to calculating the basic parameters of the drawer.

Width, length and height of drawer

When calculating this characteristic, you cannot blindly repeat the dimensions of the case.

The thickness of the outer walls and the thickness of the retractable mechanism must be taken into account.

To this it is necessary to add a technological gap that compensates for measurement errors and ensures free movement of components.

Usually it optimal value is at the level of one millimeter.

Thus, the width of the drawer is calculated by subtracting from a similar furniture parameter the double thickness of its outer walls, double the thickness of the mechanism and double the gap.

The length of the drawer is also limited by the available free space.

However, its calculation is much easier - it is enough to reduce the available distance by the amount of the next gap.

In the installed position, such guides can be adjusted in two planes.

It is necessary to correctly set the position of the box in the box.

As a result, you get correctly adjusted boxes on which the facades are hung.

In this case, it is selected based on the following considerations:

• D the back side of the box should not come into contact with the inner wall of the case;
• D the length of the drawer should not exceed the length of the drawer, or this must be taken into account when calculating the latter (add required value to the size of the gap);
• IN The height of a drawer is usually less than its front panel. This allows you not to worry about the functioning of a piece of furniture in case of excessive filling of the compartment.

After calculating all required sizes You can proceed directly to installing the mechanism.

The technological hole (gap) not only ensures the movement of the boxes, but also eliminates any interaction between them.

Self-tapping screws must be selected in such a way that their heads do not stop the mechanism.

In other words, it is necessary to provide such a distance so that the front panels of nearby sections do not touch each other, because this is the main reason for damage to the furniture facade.

The most accurate markings when installing ball guides will allow you to avoid distortions of the drawers and other problems with the further fastening of the facades.

If the guides are non-removable, then you first need to attach them to the inner walls of the cabinet or cabinet, and only then - directly to the drawers. In the case of a collapsible mechanism, there are no restrictions in this regard, that is, installation of the relevant parts can be done in any order.

This instruction will help those who for the first time decided to independently install them for their accessories.

VIDEO: How to attach ball guides.

VIDEO: Replacing telescopic guides.

When assembling factory-made furniture, the question of installing guides on drawers does not arise at all. Markings for correct installation are usually made (and very accurately), and installation instructions are included. We take into account that all the fittings are available and you do not have to select any elements for fastening. But when repairing furniture or during its production, you have to independently calculate the position of the guides for retractable furniture elements.

Ball guides

When choosing guides, preference is increasingly given to the ball version. And this is not without reason: ball runners are superior to all other guide designs in many respects. They provide easy drawer extension, are quite easy to attach and adjust, and are able to fix the drawer in its normal position.

Buy them at trading network has ceased to be a problem, so all that remains is to learn how to properly attach them to furniture. To ensure this process you will need:

• guides;
• screws;
• screwdriver;
• ruler;
• pencil;
• awl.

Item quality

When purchasing, pay attention to its length (it must be at least 70% of the length drawers) and completeness. It is better to immediately purchase the structure along with screws, so as not to get additional problems later. Check the ease of movement of parts of the structure in the store.

Ball options consist of two parts. To disconnect them (and this is necessary for fastening), press the rubber lock and simply pull out inner part guide. It will be directly attached to the retractable element.

Features of fastening to the box

There are two options for attaching devices to boxes: along the lower edge of the side wall of the box or in their central part. Fastening the guides along central axis It is recommended to use drawers if the dimensions of the drawers themselves are large enough. In this case, the load on the structures will be less, which will ensure their durability. This makes it easier to mount devices, but more difficult to accurately adjust them. To simplify things, take an additional tool called a level.

Only repeated measurements will help you do everything efficiently. Without building level In this case, too, it is not possible. In other cases, ball guides should be attached along the bottom edge. And here, too, there may be several installation options: flush with the front panel of the drawer or with a slight indentation in depth. It is easier to secure the ball structure using the first option. So there will be no need to do additional markings, and there will be no need to carry out calculations. Facade panel the box needs to be disconnected.

Take the guide in your hands and route it to the side panel. Make holes at the fastening points with an awl. This will make it easier for you to drive the screws strictly perpendicular to the panels. The caps will not stick out and interfere with work. The ball structure can be permanently attached directly to the boxes. But it is not recommended to do this on the side panels of the cabinet.

Marking and adjustment

Please note that ball guides have both horizontal and vertical holes. They are designed to adjust the position. Regular round holes are required for final fixation. To attach the structure to the side panel of the cabinet, it is necessary to make careful markings. Step back about 3 mm from the bottom panel of the cabinet and draw a horizontal line at this height with a pencil. Place the guide along this line (the line should be strictly under the guide) and screw (not all the way) the screws into all oblong-shaped holes.

Now you can check their installation using a drawer: we combine the parts of the guide and check the movement. If everything is done correctly, the box should move easily. When the drawer is completely closed, both latches should engage. If all this is missing, then the ball devices need to be adjusted. Loosen the screws slightly and ensure that all imperfections are eliminated. And only after this should all the screws be screwed all the way. On last stage fasten the fixing screws. All that remains is to install the panel strip on the drawer and secure it with screws.

At first, the latches will work too hard: it will be possible to open the drawer only with great force.

You shouldn’t be afraid of this: over time, the clamps will be developed, and everything will become much simpler. If this does not suit you, then you can install ball guides without clamps.

Ball structures without clamps are also not difficult to purchase. Well, if you couldn’t find such ones, then the clamps themselves can be easily removed from regular guides.

It is much more difficult to install ball devices on drawers that were previously mounted with rollers. The fact is that roller guides are usually a little wider, so installing other types may seem like an insoluble problem. In reality, everything is not so complicated: it is enough to place a strong tire under the guide on each side to level out the difference in thickness.

If the retractable elements are located on top of each other, then you will not be able to do without calculations. There are even certain calculation formulas, which express the relationship between the dimensions of the drawers and the location where the guide needs to be installed. It's easier to just get one technological map, where all calculations will already be made.

Optimal method

An interesting method of marking, which completely eliminates all installation shortcomings, is recommended by craftsmen. First, they advise screwing the guides to the sliding elements and connecting both parts. The Euroscrews on which the furniture body is mounted must be loosened to allow the side panels to move to the side.

A layer of any coloring substance is applied to the outer part of the guide (the part that should be adjacent to the side panel of the case). The drawer is carefully installed in the required position. It is recommended to place a sheet of cardboard under it to provide the necessary gap between the bottom of the box and the bottom panel of the case. After this, the screws are tightened until they stop. Coloring matter will give an accurate imprint on the surface.

It is at this point that the ball guide should be screwed to the side panels. The method is simple to the point of genius: it will no longer be possible to place a more precise guide. The only drawback is that the furniture body will have to be partially dismantled.

The back panel will definitely have to be separated, as it will prevent the side panels from moving freely. Is it worth doing this to install the guide? The method, although accurate, is not the fastest.

• Roller guides
• Installation of mechanisms
• Completion of work

Incorrect installation of the guides on the side walls of the drawer can lead to unpleasant consequences, which cause curvature of the entire structure. This will further determine improper operation

product, which will lead to its rapid breakdown.

To avoid such mistakes, you must immediately become familiar with the method of installing the drawer.

Currently, the most widely used types of guides are roller and ball designs. Roller type guides have a low cost, due to this quality they are very widely used in furniture designs, most often on the walls of the box.

Roller guides have very simple design, which consists of 2 parts. The first part should be mounted on the side wall of the drawer, and the second part - on inner wall cabinet, cabinet, etc. These guides can be made of steel or aluminum. The guides that are installed on the drawers have rollers that ensure their movement. To eliminate noise when the rollers move, their structure can be covered with a rubber sheath.

Since roller guides are not a structure designed to perform closed installation, then an enamel coating is applied to their surface, which is necessary to give a beautiful appearance to the entire structure. The most commonly used paint is white, black or brown.

The design of these guides is similar to rails, which allow you to open and close various moving furniture elements without putting much effort into it. This is due to the created inertial moment, which occurs after a small push on the box.

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Installation of mechanisms

Recently, the use of roller mechanisms has become widespread. This is due to the presence of computers in apartments and houses, which are installed on special computer tables. These desks have a sliding shelf so you can install a keyboard on it. Also, similar mechanisms can be on different drawers, shelves and bookcases. You can assemble such furniture elements on our own. The main thing is to approach this matter responsibly.

For installation you will need the following tools:

• drill;
• ruler;
• pencil;
• self-tapping screws

The installation diagram itself has quite simple sequence and is very easy to do. To begin installation, you need to make markings on the walls of the box. This must be done accurately to prevent further distortions that may occur in moving parts.

Next, you need to drill holes using a drill, and they should not be through. Their depth should be 12-14 mm - this is caused by the length of the screws and the thickness of the chipboard sheet. Similar holes must be made on the body of the box (they must exactly match the previous ones).

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Completion of work

For further installation, it is necessary to position the box so that the end of one rail located on it rests against the wall in front. This will allow the roller to be at the back of the element. After this, you need to fasten the rails using self-tapping screws. It should be taken into account that the head of the screws should not protrude beyond the body of the rail by more than 1 mm. The fastening is carried out in a similar way on the opposite wall of the box.

The next step is to install the guides in the cabinet. To do this, the rail is positioned so that it is in a perpendicular position relative to the facade. In this case, the roller located on the rail should be located in the front part of the cabinet.

There are many slots and holes on the body of the guide rails, which are designed to adjust their position when fastening with self-tapping screws. When installing them in a cabinet, it is better to use elongated slots, as they will allow you to necessary adjustment. Having completed the adjustment and secured the guide, you need to do the same operation on the opposite side.

After this, you can insert the drawers onto the guides. If everything was done correctly and no distortions were allowed, then the movement of the box should be smooth and soft without applying much effort.

Installing the roller guides is quite easy and does not take much time. To do this you need to prepare the right tool and have minimal skills to use it.

Before starting design, you need to decide on the type of guides that will be used. I'll show you how to design a drawer with roller guides and overlay fronts.

This is what the roller guides look like:

One drawer requires two pairs of guides. Some guides are attached to the drawer, and others to furniture stands.

In order to design and then install boxes, you need to know the following parameters:

– height of drawer fronts;

– size of boxes – width, depth, height;

– dimensions for attaching guides to racks.

For example, you need to make a chest of drawers with four drawers. Chest dimensions: width – 800 mm, height without legs – 800 mm, depth – 440 mm.

The dresser lid will hang over the facades, there will be overhead. To calculate the drawers, the parameters of the roller guides will be used.

The first thing you need to decide is the height of the facades. Draw a diagram of the chest of drawers, side view. First, we put in the required gaps: between the chest of drawers and the top facade - 4 mm; between the facades - 2-3mm, the distance from the bottom of the cabinet is 2mm.

We calculate the height of the facades:

1) add all the gaps and indents: 4+2+2+2+2=12;

2) from the working height of the chest of drawers I subtract the resulting amount: 784 -12 = 772;

3) I divide the result by the number of facades: 772: 4 = 193

The height of one facade is 193 mm. The width of the façade is 4 mm less than the total width of the product: 800 – 4 = 796 mm.

The box consists of two sides, a front and a back wall and a bottom.

The front and back walls are inserted between the sidewalls. For wide drawers, you can add one more detail: a drawer tie bar. This will prevent the bottom of the drawer from sagging. The tie strip is attached between the front and rear walls. A fiberboard bottom is nailed to the bottom. The bottom must be attached to all walls and to the tie strip.

Let's decide on the dimensions of the box parts.

To determine the height of the drawer walls, I use the rule - the height of the drawer is at least 50mm less than the height of the drawer front. In my case, 193 -50 = 143mm. I round up to 140mm.

The length of the side walls is equal to the length of the guides. The depth of the chest of drawers is 440mm, roller guides 400mm long will be used, which means the length of the side walls is 400mm.

First, we determine the width of the chest of drawers - from the total width we subtract the thickness of two 16mm racks: 800 - (16*2) = 768.

Between the side wall of the drawer and the chest of drawers there should be a gap equal to the thickness of the guide

The thickness of one pair of roller guides is 12.5 mm.

The total thickness of two pairs of roller guides is 12.5 + 12.5 = 25mm. Let's add another millimeter to prevent the screw heads from touching the guides, the total gap is 26mm.

In order to find out the width of the front wall of the drawer, you need to subtract the thickness of the guides and the thickness of the side walls of the drawer from the width of the opening. The thickness of the guides is already known - 26mm, and the thickness of the side walls of the box is 16 + 16 = 32mm.

The width of the front (rear) wall is: 768 – (26 + 32) = 710 mm.

The resulting parts have the following dimensions:

side wall 400 x 140 – 2 pcs;

front (back) wall 710 x 140 – 2 pcs;

bottom 737 x 395.

Now you need to mark the lines for attaching the guides to the chest of drawers. Marking should always start from the top edge of the part. And even if you make a slight mistake, it won’t be noticeable below. For marking, I use the following rule: the line on which the guide will be screwed should be 35mm above the bottom of the facade.

I have four drawers, there should be four lines. I think:

1st line. 4(distance from top) + 193(facade height) – 35 = 162mm

2nd line. 4 + 193 + 2 (gap between facades) + 193 – 35 = 357mm

3rd line. 4 + 193 + 2 + 193 + 2 + 193 – 35 = 552mm

4th line. 4 + 193 + 2 + 193 + 2 + 193 + 2 + 193 – 35 = 747mm

The roller guide mechanism consists of a pair of so-called rails, between which several (2 or more) small wheels are installed.

Roller guides are the simplest guides in terms of design and installation.

The latter ensure the movement of both parts of the device in two opposite directions, that is, they allow both increasing the length of the structure and returning it to its original state.

The movement occurs in one plane (usually horizontal) and is limited by the size of the runners.

The material of each component has a significant impact not only on the degree of mobility of the guides, but also on the durability of the entire mechanism. To maximize the service life of the device, the rails are made of metal, and to ensure the necessary travel for the runners, the rollers are made of plastic.

Roller guides for drawers.

The main reason for using roller guides is that there is virtually no friction between moving parts. But this process inevitably leads to damage and subsequent destruction of interacting surfaces and the structure as a whole.

You can find roller guides for drawers with a depth of 250 to 800 mm, that is, for almost all cases.

In addition, due to friction, much more effort is required to move the skids, which also occurs at a lower speed.

The roller guides are coated with durable epoxy enamel.

With your own set useful properties, ball guides have been competing with roller guides for quite some time.

Ball guides, like roller guides, consist of two parts. One of them is attached to the box, the other to the side wall.

In the first case, a small ball acts as a component that provides mobility to the improvised rails, and in the second, a small roller.

Ball guide mechanism.

Roller guide mechanism.

And even though bearings containing spherical elements can be used in the manufacture of the latter, it is precisely this feature of the mechanisms that gave rise to their name.

Roller guides can withstand dynamic loads of up to 25 kg.

If we talk about popularity specified devices, then roller products are still considered the most common.

The disadvantages of roller guides are the noise with which they extend and close.

Their demand was influenced by the fact that ball guides are much more often found in a non-separable version. This does not so much impede installation or complicate installation, but seriously limits the scope of application of the mechanism.

There are many varieties of ball guides; they differ mainly in height, as well as in the degree of extension and the presence of a closer.

Using roller guides in drawer design

For some time now, the area of ​​application of roller guides has been inextricably linked with furniture production.

It is in this area that such items are most often involved.

The device is usually used for the manufacture of wardrobes with folding rods, shoe cabinets with hidden niches and cabinets with drawers. Since the latter are more common, they will be discussed further.

An example of using roller guides to pull out drawers in a cabinet.

The mechanism is fastened to side walls boxes from the outside, which does not help reduce usable space the box itself.

Roller guides are partial extension guides.

This means that you will not be able to pull out the drawer completely.

In order not to damage the back wall of the cabinet and not to detach the drawer from it, the runners contain special stops that take the form of artificial irregularities on the surface of the rails.

Correct calculation and installation is the basis successful application roller guides.

And in order to provide additional options regarding the removal and installation of the box, the main components have technological holes.

Ball guides would not allow the drawer to be pulled out and inserted after assembling the furniture without disturbing its fronts.

Installation of roller guides for drawers

The use of a mechanism with pressure pushers, which also act as limiters, allows you to preserve the appearance of the furniture facades and its back wall without loss of functionality.

Cabinet with installed roller guides.

We install the drawers themselves inside the box and get a finished piece of furniture.

VIDEO: Installing roller guides.

50 photo ideas for drawers with various mechanisms:

At self-production furniture – various cabinets with drawers – key point in the assembly is the installation of guides. Roller guides ensure the movement of the sliding element. The mechanism of the retractable system is quite simple and includes rollers and slides along which they move. The rollers are fixed on outside box box. The runners for their movement are installed inside the cabinet on the sides of the free niche. When assembling the mechanism, it is very important to install the elements so that they match exactly. If there is any inaccuracy, the furniture will be damaged. At best, the mechanism will jam and not work smoothly. In the worst case, it will not be possible to assemble the drawer, and all the materials used will be damaged. In addition, dismantling the mechanism can be quite problematic. Before carrying out work, you need to perform simple calculations to get the desired result.

Calculation of guides

In order for the drawers to ideally occupy the space allocated to them, you need to perform calculations for the roller guides before installing them. It is best to describe the calculation procedure using an example. If you need to build, for example, a bedside table with two identical drawers, then first of all you need to measure its parameters. For a cabinet with a sidewall height of 367, a plinth height of 70 and a gap between the facades, the height of one facade will be: (368-70-2*3)/2=146 mm.

With the same element sizes best option their installation - to make them interchangeable.

To do this, the calculations must take into account the extreme positions of the boxes. In addition, you should pay attention to the overlap of the facades and the frame of the cabinet. The lower limit of the installation of roller guides is determined by the bottom of the cabinet. When installing the box on it, the bottom should coincide with its lower edge.

To avoid touching the bottom of the cabinet, you need to add 4 mm to the screw head. The height of the fastening of the lower element of the mechanism will be equal to the sum of the height of the screw head and the size of the center line of the hole, that is, in this example: 18+4=22 mm. You can calculate the location of the mechanism parts from the lower end of the sidewall of the cabinet. In this case: base+bottom thickness+mounting height of the guide from the bottom=70+16+22=108 mm.

It is worth noting that the screw head is usually less than 4 mm. Its average size is 1-1.5. The size is taken as 4 for universality of calculation. The results obtained will also be applicable if a material with a thickness of 18 mm, and not 16, is used to make the cabinet. In this case, a small gap will still remain.

The same procedure is used to calculate the height of the façade for top element, only taking into account the placement of the lower ones. After performing calculations and markings based on the data obtained, you can proceed to installation.