How to use polyurethane foam: detailed instructions for use. Rules and sequence for applying polyurethane foam How to apply foam correctly with polyurethane foam

How to use polyurethane foam: detailed instructions for use.  Rules and sequence for applying polyurethane foam How to apply foam correctly with polyurethane foam
How to use polyurethane foam: detailed instructions for use. Rules and sequence for applying polyurethane foam How to apply foam correctly with polyurethane foam

From the article “Mounting foam: advice from a professional,” you have already learned how to choose a quality product. All that remains is to use it correctly. In this article, we will help you choose a mounting gun and reveal techniques for economical use and removal of foam residue from hands and clothing.

Despite the fact that polyurethane foam is in demand during construction and repair, we should not forget that it is far from a universal insulating material. It all depends on the size of the cracks and voids that need to be filled:

  1. Small cracks up to 1 cm are best eliminated using sealants or putties. They are more flexible and will not give side effect as a secondary expansion.
  2. Holes more than 10 cm wide are recommended to be filled with static materials - brick, wooden blocks or with insulation (for example, polystyrene foam), and only then further processed polyurethane foam.
  3. To insulate medium-sized cracks, it is optimal to use polyurethane foam - household or professional.

Polyurethane foam sealant (spray foam) has excellent adhesion to the vast majority of building materials, however, there are cases when it is useless: the foam will not stick to various types of polyethylene, Teflon, silicone, as well as to any greasy or dusty surfaces. These nuances must be taken into account to obtain effective insulation.

Foam with a tube - threat of expansion

The main disadvantage of household foam with a straw is significant secondary expansion. When hardening, it can increase several times, so it is extremely important to comply with all conditions of use.

Instructions for using household foam can be seen on the back of the cylinder, but let’s look at it in more detail and step by step:

  1. Surface cleaning and preparation. Before applying foam, you must carefully check all cracks and holes for the presence of small debris and, if necessary, degrease the surface with acetone.
  2. Surface moistening. Polyurethane foam requires contact with moist air to harden, so before using the can, the surfaces need to be moistened - a regular spray bottle is quite suitable for this purpose.
  3. Preparing a foam bottle. A little trick - before using the foam, you need to hold it for several hours in water with a temperature of about 20 ° C - after this procedure it will lie down better. Before starting work, shake the container for a minute so that all components are evenly mixed - this will ensure maximum foam yield.
  4. Attaching a tube or gun to a cylinder. The tube is simply screwed onto the valve, but with a pistol the situation is somewhat more complicated - we will consider the issue of its selection and use below.
  5. Working with foam. By the right technology The polyurethane foam is applied in small sections (about 10 cm) from bottom to top - this helps to avoid unnecessary spreading of the material. It is necessary to ensure that the gap is not filled by more than 50% - during hardening the volume will increase greatly, which can lead to damage to the structure being treated. It is extremely important not to touch uncured foam - any physical impact and disruption of the structure worsens hardening and negatively affects volume and density.
  6. It is necessary to ensure that the cylinder is always in the “upside down” position - this will ensure the most complete consumption of the foam.

Difficult moments:

Problem when using How to solve
Foaming hole wider than 3cm Polyurethane foam must be applied in several stages, waiting for each layer to harden. Before reapplying the foam, be sure to moisten the hardened base.
Through slots Under no circumstances should such holes be filled with foam on both sides - this can lead to severe deformation of the structure. Foam is used on one side only, back side usually filled with silicone sealant.
Installation of door and window boxes To reduce the pressure on the structure, it is recommended to use dowels and additional spacers (they are removed after hardening). Otherwise, the foam, expanding, can seriously distort the frames of doors and windows.

The container of household foam must be used completely, otherwise the composition will harden during storage and will be unsuitable for use. With professional foam such problems do not arise, but there are some nuances.

Mounting gun: price or quality

A professional gun ensures precise and dosed application of polyurethane foam, reusable cylinder and accuracy when working. There are many modifications of such a tool, but the design of the device and the principle of operation are approximately the same:

  1. The tip of the gun - as a rule, its diameter is several times smaller than the diameter of the tube itself. This feature allows you to repeatedly increase the pressure when foam comes out, which, in turn, guarantees a good volume.
  2. The barrel (tube) is the channel through which the foam comes out. It can be one-piece or collapsible (in two parts), which simplifies the maintenance of the instrument.
  3. Adapter - an adapter for connecting to the neck of a foam bottle. In high-quality models it is coated with Teflon.
  4. Adjustment unit - allows you to dose the foam output and its pressure.
  5. Fastening nut - with its help the barrel is attached to the handle. This design allows the tube to be removed for cleaning or replacement.
  6. Trigger - used to adjust the supply of polyurethane foam.
  7. Handle - made from various types plastic and metals. Aluminum handles are considered the most reliable and comfortable.

Operating principle mounting gun laid down simple mechanics: After attaching to the cylinder, the foam passes through the supply valve into the barrel, where it remains until the trigger is pulled. Pulling the trigger opens the valve on the tip, releasing the foam. The regulating mechanism allows you to control the volume of foam supplied.

Since there is nothing superfluous in the design of the pistol, choosing such a tool is quite simple. There are just a few factors to consider:

  1. The quality of the materials from which the gun is made. It is better if it is made entirely of hard metals. Meet quality models made of plastic, but this is very rare.
  2. Collapsible design: monolithic guns are cheaper, but the price of a dismountable tool will pay for itself many times over when cleaning and replacing parts.
  3. Operating pressure in a pistol. This characteristic cannot be checked in a store, but there is a little trick. When buying a gun, immediately purchase a can of cleaner (it contains acetone). At home, you need to screw the gun onto a bottle of cleaning liquid, press the trigger to release it inside, then remove it and leave it for a couple of days. If after this time the acetone fires when the trigger is pressed, the pressure is normal. If not, you can return it defective goods to the store, acetone does not leave any traces on the surface of the barrel.

Gun foam - professional use for beginners

Having chosen the right gun and related products (foam remover/cleaner and technical petroleum jelly), you can get to work.

Initial gun installation

To install the gun, you need to unscrew the mounting screw all the way, lubricate the socket with technical petroleum jelly and secure the cylinder. It is important to ensure that the adjusting unit is on minimum consumption foam. The container is then turned over working position(upside down) and the supply of the composition is adjusted - a couple of test presses are made to release excess air and check the pressure.

The rules for applying foam remain the same: in small stripes in the direction from bottom to top. However, professional foam has virtually no secondary expansion, which makes calculating the required volume much easier. The main thing is to ensure that the cylinder is not in a horizontal position both during use and during breaks.

Replacing a foam bottle

Before installing a new cylinder or putting the gun into storage, you must thoroughly clean all surfaces from the remains of old foam. For this purpose, a cleaner (wash) is used:

  • to release the pressure, pull the gun trigger;
  • attach the cleaner bottle to the gun;
  • turning the cylinder over, press the trigger for 10 seconds;
  • repeat several times until clear liquid comes out of the tube;
  • lubricate the gun parts with technical petroleum jelly.

When storing the mounting gun, it is necessary to repeat the lubrication procedure approximately once every one and a half to two months.

When working with foam, it is important to consider such points as its chemical composition and increased “stickiness” to different surfaces. Therefore, it is extremely important to use protective equipment - a work suit and gloves.

Covering our tracks

Polyurethane foam is one of the most difficult materials to remove: once it gets on fabric, leather or other surfaces, it is quite difficult to clean them. But it's worth a try.

Surface Fresh foam Cured foam
Skin of hands Carefully remove with a sponge, the residues are removed with improvised means - scrub, acetone, solvent, gasoline, saturated saline solution Can only be removed mechanically. Usually loses its properties and falls off after 2-3 days
Textile Collect with a stick, residues are removed with a cleaner.
Important! When processing the fabric, stains may remain!
Large pieces are cut off if possible, and the remains are treated with a special solvent for hardened foam, white spirit or gasoline. Appearing stains are removed with stain removers.
PVC (frames, window sills) Carefully remove, wipe the surface with a special cleaner for PVC Carefully cut off, the surface is wiped with a special cleaner for PVC (usually marked - for installing windows)
Flooring (linoleum, laminate, parquet) Remove the foam with a spatula, and collect the remaining residue with a sponge moistened with cleaner. Spots may appear! WITH wooden surfaces They are removed by grinding, but varnished coatings cannot be cleaned - they will have to be replaced. After cutting off the foam, the remains are carefully dissolved with a special cleaner or the drug “Dimexide” (sold in pharmacies). It is necessary to wear gloves when working with such substances - potent components can cause burns!

As you already know, polyurethane foam is not intended for sealing holes smaller than 1 cm in size - it is better to fill such cracks with silicone sealants.

Alexander Birzhin, rmnt.ru

Polyurethane foam is an excellent sealant and insulation material. It is used both for the installation of such large-scale structures as doors and windows, and for repairs. minor defects. This material is used to patch various cracks and crevices, restore tightness at joints, and even make other building materials. Foamed polyurethane is quite easy to use, but you need to follow certain rules for working with it and be quite careful so that the seam is smooth and lasts a long time.

Peculiarities

Cured polyurethane foam is an elastic hard material yellowish-white color. This very light substance has excellent heat and sound insulation properties. It very quickly loses its properties under the influence of ultraviolet radiation, so it is used mainly indoors.

This type of foam has a number of advantages that make it stand out from other materials:

  • increased moisture resistance, high levels of sound and heat insulation;
  • low current conductivity, which allows it to be used when installing electrical networks;
  • many types of foam are resistant to fire, which allows expanding the scope of its application;
  • after leaving the cylinder, such foam expands in volume and fills even those microcracks into which it is impossible to insert the gun tube;
  • polyurethane can be used to glue surfaces made of different materials, for example, wood or brick;
  • The foam is absolutely non-toxic and resistant to chemical attack.

Almost all of the above properties must be indicated by the manufacturer in the appropriate certificates, which can be requested from the seller.

The packaging itself must contain the following information:

  • foam expansion volume. It can range from 10 to 300%, but most often the actual foam is still slightly less, since this percentage is indicated for ideal conditions;
  • its viscosity;
  • the volume of the container itself.

Most often, all these characteristics depend on the type and purpose of the foam, so you need to know which polyurethane it is and what it should be used for.

Release form

All types of polyurethane insulation differ according to several criteria.

Depending on the method of application and form of release, they can be of two types.

  • Professional foam is produced in special cylinders, which are inserted into a plastic gun with metal clamps. This gun allows you to use polyurethane economically and in equal portions. The main thing is to thoroughly rinse the device after use so that any remaining substances in it do not harden.
  • Instead of a gun, household foam packages are equipped with a small tube that is placed on the lever. It's not suitable for big renovation, but will cope perfectly with minor defects.

Depending on what time of year and at what temperature the polyurethane will expand and harden, there are the following types polyurethane foam:

  • summer – used at temperatures from +5 to +35 degrees;
  • winter – used at temperatures from -18 to +35 degrees;
  • universal - costs much more, but can be used all year round.

It is worth noting that the temperature ranges are not indicated for air, but for the surface on which the composition will be applied. The lower its temperature, the less expansion of the finished layer will be.

In addition, foam can vary in type depending on the flammability class:

  • B3 – flammable substance;
  • B2 – self-extinguishing substance;
  • B1 – fire-resistant compounds.

Finally, polyurethane foams vary in composition. They can be one- or two-component. However, the latter type of foam is so difficult to handle that it is practically not used for private construction and when renovating premises with your own hands. Two-component foam hardens in a quarter of an hour and there is practically no time left to eliminate defects, so only experienced professional builders use it.

Scope of application

Most often, polyurethane foam is used in the process of installing windows and doors, laying electrical wiring and pipelines. Due to the high thermal insulation in this way, it is possible to foam seams and grooves in cooling and heating systems, cracks in the roof and when insulating the surface of walls, floors or ceilings. She attaches perfectly Wall panels and foam boards, providing excellent waterproofing. It is applied externally steel baths or cast iron baths to reduce heat transfer from the metal when filling the bath hot water. Using polyurethane, you can insulate the space behind the sheathing of PVC panels. In almost half of the repair processes it remains an indispensable material.

In order to avoid any problems with both small and major renovation own home or apartment, you need to be able to use both professional and household foam. To work correctly with the first one, you must correctly install and use a special construction gun.

Gun installation includes the following steps:

  • to begin with, the foam balloon is heated in warm water before room temperatures, then shake it vigorously for 30 seconds. This will give the polyurethane a homogeneous state, which will allow it to come out of the cylinder smoothly and in full;
  • The protective cap is removed from the upper tank of the gun, it is turned with the handle down and the cylinder is screwed into it. The container is screwed in with force until a hissing sound appears, which means that the mixture has begun to flow into the tool;
  • if the gun has been previously used and has not been thoroughly washed, then the hissing will not be heard and you will have to purchase a new tool;
  • The system of connected elements is shaken vigorously several more times, the adjustment screw is turned a quarter turn and, holding the trigger, they begin to apply.

Working with such equipment does not require specific skills, but it will require considerable dexterity if this is the first time.

Applying foam from a gun is performed as follows:

  • first you need to clean it work surface from dust and dirt, then lightly wet it with a regular spray, since the foam interacts better with a wet surface;
  • the tool nozzle is directed to the surface;
  • foam is fed into the right amount smoothly pressing the trigger;
  • to pour the composition into a vertical recess, it must be applied from bottom to top;
  • wide spaces are filled with zigzag movements of no more than a third of the volume, since the foam expands greatly in air;
  • It is better to replenish the area afterwards than to cut off excess hardened substance.

The gun barrel itself is quite long, but in order to glue the materials into hard to reach places, for example, to fill the voids between a false wall, it is worth additionally purchasing an extension hose that fits over it.

Despite the fact that the packaging most often indicates a hardening time of up to 8 hours, in fact this process can take up to half a day. After complete hardening, the excess is cut off with the usual stationery knife or a metal file.

Unlike a convenient construction gun, household polyurethane foam is equipped with only a small PVC tube, which is put on an adapter. In principle, the sequence of work itself is practically the same, however, more effort will have to be made to fill the gap of the same volume. Such a tube is convenient for small volumes of work, because with it it is impossible to release the solution in equal portions. In addition, you have to constantly hold the balloon upside down, causing your hand to constantly go numb, making it difficult to maintain smooth movements. If such a tube and adapter were not sold complete with polyurethane insulation, you will have to purchase them separately.

You will learn more about how to use polyurethane foam in the video.

Most often, polyurethane foam is purchased in the required volume for one time and after use, even if it is unfinished, is thrown away. And also it is not bought in advance, as it has a limited shelf life. It is worth considering the nuances described below in more detail in order to be able to save money.

Can it be used multiple times?

There is a widespread belief among buyers that professional foam with a gun can be reused, but household variety With flexible tube, alas, is disposable and cannot be reapplied to the surface. Indeed, most often, if you leave the cylinder on the gun and block the trigger with a dispenser, the gun will not allow air to enter the cylinder and the composition will not harden. The next time you use it, it will be enough to remove the remaining frozen foam from the nozzle and you can start working again. However, exactly the same can be achieved from household product. To do this, you need to start releasing the foam from the balloon, but without letting it come out, bend and tie the soft tube with wire. The foam at its end will harden, but the bend will not allow air to penetrate further and spoil the entire volume of the substance. The next time you use it, the cured edge of the PVC tube is simply cut off and the foam is ready for use. The container can be stored in this form for no more than a few weeks.

From the article “Mounting foam: advice from a professional,” you have already learned how to choose a quality product. The only thing left to do is to use it correctly. In this article, we will help you choose a mounting gun and reveal techniques for economical use and removal of foam residue from hands and clothing.

Despite the fact that polyurethane foam is in demand during construction and repair, we should not forget that it is far from a universal insulating material. It all depends on the size of the cracks and voids that need to be filled:

· Small cracks up to 1 cm are best eliminated using sealants or putties. They are more flexible and will not give a side effect in the form of secondary expansion.

· It is recommended to fill holes more than 10 cm wide with static materials - brick, wooden blocks or insulation (for example, polystyrene foam), and then additionally treat them with polyurethane foam.

· To insulate medium-sized cracks, it is optimal to use polyurethane foam - household or professional.


Polyurethane foam sealant (spray foam) has excellent adhesion to the vast majority of building materials, but there are cases when it is useless: the foam will not stick to various types of polyethylene, Teflon, silicone, as well as to any greasy or dusty surfaces. These nuances must be taken into account to obtain effective insulation.

Foam with a tube - threat of expansion

The main disadvantage of household foam with a straw is significant secondary expansion. When hardening, it can increase several times, so it is extremely important to comply with all conditions of use.

Instructions for using household foam can be seen on the back of the cylinder, but let’s look at it in more detail and step by step:

· Surface cleaning and preparation. Before applying foam, you must carefully check all cracks and holes for the presence of small debris and, if necessary, degrease the surface with acetone.

· Surface moistening. Polyurethane foam requires contact with moist air to harden, so before using the can the surfaces need to be moistened - a regular spray bottle is quite suitable for this purpose.

· Preparing a foam bottle. A little trick - before using the foam, you need to hold it for several hours in water with a temperature of about 20 ° C - after this procedure it will lie down better. Before starting work, shake the container for a minute so that all components are evenly mixed - this will ensure maximum foam yield.

· Attaching a tube or gun to a cylinder. The tube is simply screwed onto the valve, but with a pistol the situation is somewhat more complicated - we will consider the issue of its selection and use below.

Working with foam. Using the correct technology, polyurethane foam is applied in small sections (about 10 cm) from bottom to top - this helps to avoid unnecessary spreading of the material. It is necessary to ensure that the gap is not filled by more than 50% - during hardening the volume will increase greatly, which can lead to damage to the structure being treated. It is extremely important not to touch uncured foam - any physical impact and disruption of the structure worsens hardening and negatively affects volume and density.

It is necessary to ensure that the cylinder is always in the “upside down” position - this will ensure the most complete consumption of foam.

Difficult moments:

Problem when using

How to solve

Foaming hole wider than 3cm

Polyurethane foam must be applied in several stages, waiting for each layer to harden. Before reapplying the foam, be sure to moisten the hardened base.

Through slots

Under no circumstances should such holes be filled with foam on both sides - this can lead to severe deformation of the structure. Foam is used on one side only, the other side is usually filled with silicone sealant.

Installation of door and window frames

To reduce the pressure on the structure, it is recommended to use dowels and additional spacers (they are removed after hardening). Otherwise, the foam, expanding, can seriously distort the frames of doors and windows.

The container of household foam must be used completely, otherwise the composition will harden during storage and will be unsuitable for use. With professional foam such problems do not arise, but there are some nuances.


Mounting gun: price or quality

A professional gun ensures accurate and dosed application of polyurethane foam, reusable use of the container and accuracy when working. There are many modifications of such a tool, but the design of the device and the principle of operation are approximately the same:

· The tip of the gun - as a rule, its diameter is several times smaller than the diameter of the tube itself. This feature allows you to repeatedly increase the pressure when foam comes out, which, in turn, guarantees a good volume.

· The barrel (tube) is the channel through which the foam comes out. It can be one-piece or collapsible (in two parts), which simplifies the maintenance of the instrument.

· Adapter - adapter for connecting to the neck of a foam bottle. In high-quality models it is coated with Teflon.

· Adjustment unit - allows you to dose the foam output and its pressure.

· Fastening nut - with its help the barrel is attached to the handle. This design allows the tube to be removed for cleaning or replacement.

· Trigger - serves to adjust the supply of polyurethane foam.

· Handle - made from various types of plastic and metals. Aluminum handles are considered the most reliable and comfortable.


The operating principle of the mounting gun is based on simple mechanics: after attaching to the cylinder, the foam passes through the supply valve into the barrel, where it remains until the trigger is pressed. Pulling the trigger opens the valve on the tip, releasing the foam. The regulating mechanism allows you to control the volume of foam supplied.

Since there is nothing superfluous in the design of the pistol, choosing such a tool is quite simple. There are just a few factors to consider:

The quality of the materials from which the gun is made. It is better if it is made entirely of hard metals. There are high-quality models made of plastic, but this is very rare.

Collapsible design: monolithic guns are cheaper, but the price of a collapsible tool will pay for itself many times over when cleaning and replacing parts.

Working pressure in the gun. This characteristic cannot be checked in a store, but there is a little trick. When buying a gun, immediately purchase a can of cleaner (it contains acetone). At home, you need to screw the gun onto a bottle of cleaning liquid, press the trigger to release it inside, then remove it and leave it for a couple of days. If after this time the acetone fires when the trigger is pressed, the pressure is normal. If not, you can return the low-quality product to the store; acetone does not leave any traces on the surface of the barrel.

Gun foam - professional use for newbies

Having chosen the right gun and related products (foam remover/cleaner and technical petroleum jelly), you can get to work.

Initial gun installation

To install the gun, you need to unscrew the mounting screw all the way, lubricate the socket with technical petroleum jelly and secure the cylinder. It is important to ensure that the adjustment unit is set to the minimum foam flow rate. Then the cylinder is turned over into the working position (upside down) and the supply of the composition is adjusted - a couple of test presses are made to release excess air and check the pressure.


The rules for applying foam remain the same: in small stripes in the direction from bottom to top. However, professional foam has virtually no secondary expansion, which makes calculating the required volume much easier. The main thing is to ensure that the cylinder is not in a horizontal position both during use and during breaks.

Replacing a foam bottle

Before installing a new cylinder or putting the gun into storage, you must thoroughly clean all surfaces from the remains of old foam. For this purpose, a cleaner (wash) is used:

· to release the pressure, pull the gun trigger;

· attach the cleaner bottle to the gun;

· turning the cylinder over, press the trigger for 10 seconds;

· repeat several times until clear liquid comes out of the tube;

· lubricate the gun parts with technical petroleum jelly.

When storing the mounting gun, it is necessary to repeat the lubrication procedure approximately once every one and a half to two months.

When working with foam, it is important to take into account such points as its chemical composition and increased “adhesion” to different surfaces. Therefore, it is extremely important to use protective equipment - a work suit and gloves.

Covering our tracks

Polyurethane foam is one of the most difficult materials to remove: once it gets on fabric, leather or other surfaces, it is quite difficult to clean them. But it's worth a try.


Surface

Fresh foam

Cured foam

Skin of hands

Carefully remove with a sponge, the residues are removed with improvised means - scrub, acetone, solvent, gasoline, saturated saline solution

Can only be removed mechanically. Usually loses its properties and falls off after 2-3 days

Textile

Collect with a stick, residues are removed with a cleaner.
Important! When processing the fabric, stains may remain!

Large pieces are cut off if possible, and the remains are treated with a special solvent for hardened foam, white spirit or gasoline. Appearing stains are removed with stain removers.

PVC (frames, window sills)

Carefully remove, wipe the surface with a special cleaner for PVC

Carefully cut off, the surface is wiped with a special cleaner for PVC (usually marked - for installing windows)

Flooring (linoleum, laminate, parquet)

Remove the foam with a spatula, and collect the remaining residue with a sponge moistened with cleaner. Spots may appear! They are removed from wooden surfaces by sanding, but varnished coatings cannot be cleaned - they will have to be replaced.

After cutting off the foam, the remains are carefully dissolved with a special cleaner or the drug “Dimexide” (sold in pharmacies). It is necessary to wear gloves when working with such substances - potent components can cause burns!



As you already know, polyurethane foam is not intended for sealing holes smaller than 1 cm in size - it is better to fill such cracks with silicone sealants.

Alexander Birzhin, rmnt.ru

http://www.rmnt.ru/ - website RMNT.ru

If there is a need to fill a hole, seam or gap, polyurethane foam is most often used. This material is used for rough finishing, installation door frames, double-glazed windows, balcony repair, construction various buildings(for sealing).

There are several types of polyurethane foam - for different conditions and tasks.

The product is sold in cylinders of different sizes (from 300 ml to 1 l).

Approximate composition (may vary partially, depending on the manufacturer and type):

  1. Prepolymers (polyol, isocyanate) are the basis of the foam. Upon contact with air, this component enters into a polymerization process, expanding and foaming.
  2. Propellant (propellant gas, a mixture of butane and propane). Displaces the composition from the cylinder when pressed.
  3. Additives. Additional components that improve adhesion, regulate the degree of foaming, are necessary to change the operating temperature.

Specifications

Technical characteristics of polyurethane foam:

  • Extension. Indicates the volume that the mixture occupies at 2 stages: leaving the container and solidifying. The greater the expansion, the denser the gap (seam, hole) will be foamed. Average figures are 10-60% for household compositions, and 180-300% for professional compositions.
  • Adhesion. Indicates the tenacity of the composition with the surface inside the foamed space. The higher the viscosity, the less the foam will slide off. This is relevant if you need to foam holes on a vertical surface (on the wall) or on the ceiling (from where the foam can drain before it hardens). In numbers, the normal parameter is considered to be 0.4-0.48 MPa.
  • Volume in container and volume out. Common parameters: 300 ml (will give about 30 liters of hardened foam), 500 ml (will give about 40 liters of foam), 750 ml (will give up to 50 liters of foam) and 1000 ml (80-100 liters). The volume of frozen foam is given approximately under normal conditions (room temperature).
  • Temperature at which foam can be applied.

These characteristics are indicated on the cylinder.

Purpose and scope

Polyurethane foam is used in construction at the following stages:

  • Rough finish.
  • Installation of door frames, balcony and window frames.
  • Communication gaskets (for sealing between water pipes, sewer pipes, ventilation ducts, gas pipelines and walls so that there is no vibration).

Its purpose is to seal holes, cavities, seams and joints between structural elements if their width exceeds 2-3 cm. Previously, cement and tow were used for such tasks, but this method is longer and more complex.

Pros and cons of using foam as a sealing material

The advantages of the application include the following nuances:

  1. Easy to use (working with polyurethane foam does not require special experience or knowledge).
  2. High speed of application and hardening (a 300-500 ml container can be completely released in 5-10 minutes, it will harden in 3-12 hours, depending on air humidity and temperature).
  3. Can be used with any type of material, including metal, plastic and polymer surfaces.
  4. Strong adhesion to surfaces (after hardening, it will be difficult to remove the foam, but if necessary, it can be cut off or washed with a solvent).
  5. Resistance to moisture (the layer of hardened foam does not rot or mold).
  6. Availability of compounds with different characteristics(For different temperatures, with varying degrees of protection from open fire).

The main disadvantage is its sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation. Under sun rays the foam dries out over time, but it is usually used at the rough finishing stage, and is not left in sight - it is either sealed with plaster or covered with panels (plastic, for example).

Types of polyurethane foam

All compositions can be divided into:

  • Number of components.
  • Method of application.
  • Temperature.
  • Degrees of flammability.

By number of components

There are compositions:

  • One-component. Sold in pressure cylinders, they do not require additional components: the composition can be used immediately by spraying it from the container.
  • Two-component. Sold in 2 separate containers. The contents of the containers must be mixed in certain proportions, and the resulting mixture must be applied using special devices.

IN construction stores Most products are one-component formulations. Two-component ones are usually used only for industrial purposes, for large volumes of work and, if necessary, to obtain the maximum high performance composition.

By method of application

There are compositions:

  1. Professional. The foam is sprayed from a container, which is inserted into a construction gun. More convenient option than spraying with a tube, it allows you to quickly work with a large volume (for example, foaming cracks between slabs).
  2. Semi-professional (household). A plastic tube is placed on the container through which the mixture will pass. Suitable for small volumes (for example, to foam a gap when insulating a balcony).

Plastic tube nozzles are sold complete with small volumes. They can be used several times (if the work is carried out in several stages, if several cylinders are used), for which it is necessary to blow out the tube after use (so that the foam does not freeze inside).

Foam guns are sold separately. Minimum cost- about 300 rubles, average - 500-800. The device is reusable; at the end of work it must be washed with a special cleaner (containing an acetone solution). Even if the foam hardens inside the nozzle, it can be washed off with a cleaner or cleaned mechanically.

According to the temperature at which the foam can be used

By temperature conditions The following types of compositions are distinguished:

  • Summer: intended for use at +5º…+35º.
  • Winter: intended for use at −18º…+35º.
  • Universal: used at −10º…+35º.

The temperature of the surfaces on which the foam is applied is indicated, not the air temperature in the room. Therefore, when working in cold weather (for example, if a balcony is being glazed in winter, or the seams are foaming in a building under construction without heating or without windows), it is necessary to heat not the room, but the surface.

Also, the surface temperature affects the volume of polyurethane foam: the colder it is, the less ready-made solution will be produced at the exit.

According to the degree of flammability

This is relevant if work is carried out in a room with the possibility of fire (for example, in a bathhouse).

Product classes:

  • B1: Fireproof.
  • B2: self-extinguishing.
  • B3: flammable.

Popular manufacturers

On Russian market There are products from the following manufacturers:

  1. Macroflex (Makroflex, Finland).
  2. Bison International (Netherlands).
  3. Soudal (Belgium).
  4. Tytan, Hauser (Poland).
  5. Bau Master, Domos (Estonia).
  6. Master Gvozd, CHIP, Putech (RF).
  7. Ceresit (Germany).

Rules for using polyurethane foam

Foam is used observing the following rules:

  • The width of the crack or hole should be in the range of 2-10 cm. Narrow cracks (up to 2 cm) are best sealed with putty or sealant. More wide gaps It is better to seal it with brick, wood or foam plastic, and foam the remaining leaks.
  • When working in cold weather, the foam container will need to be heated: lower it into a container with warm water(up to 30-40º approximately).
  • You can cut off the excess only after 25-30 minutes after applying the foam, when it has completely hardened. This can be done with a construction knife.
  • The cylinder must be held upside down so that the gas pushes out the foam. If you hold the container upside down, the gas will come out of the container, but the foam will remain.
  • After removing the cap and attaching it to the gun (or tube), the can must be shaken.
  • A container with “household” foam is used completely in one go - an open container cannot be stored for a long time, it will harden.
  • The gap cannot be foamed more than 50%, because when it expands, its volume increases.

Complex nuances

So you don't have to cut it a large number of foam and redo the structure, please note:

  1. If the hole is 3-4 cm wide or more, the foam is applied in several steps: first 1 layer, after it hardens - the next ones in succession.
  2. It is better not to fill through holes with foam. On the one hand, it is recommended to cover them tightly with something (for example, a board), and remove the “lid” only 30 minutes after foaming, when the composition has hardened.
  3. When installing door and window frames, they must be secured with dowels and spacers. If this is not done, the expanding compound may warp the box and it will have to be reinstalled.

Stages of work

The foam is used step by step like this:

  • The surface is cleaned of small debris, if any.
  • The surface is degreased (acetone).
  • The surface is moistened (sprayed with water using a brush or spray). Foam hardens faster and better if the surface (or air) is wet.
  • If the room is cold, place the balloon in warm water.
  • The cylinder is opened, inserted into the gun (or a tube is put on it) and shaken.
  • The end of the tube is inserted into the slot, and the foam is supplied in portions, 5-10 cm along the length of the slot, moving from bottom to top.
  • After complete hardening (after 25-30 minutes), the protruding pieces are cut off with a construction knife.

Safety precautions when working with polyurethane foam

Polyurethane foam is a chemical composition located in a container under pressure. Therefore, you need to work with it, observing safety rules:

  1. Do not drop or heat the cylinder.
  2. Do not use the cylinder near hot surfaces or open flames.
  3. The work is carried out with gloves (if the foam gets on the skin, it will be difficult to clean it off).
  4. You need to keep a sponge and a rag at hand to clean off the composition if it gets into an “unwanted” place.

Removing foam from contact with “unnecessary” surfaces

Polyurethane foam sets quickly on the surface, so if it gets somewhere other than the desired gap, it will be difficult to clean it off.

Methods for cleaning different surfaces:

  • Leather. If the composition has not hardened, it is removed with a sponge, and the remains are washed with acetone or a solvent. If it is frozen, it is cut off and scrubbed off with a scrub.
  • Textile. The uncured composition is collected with any hard object (a piece of a board will do). The frozen pieces are cut off, and small residues are washed off with a solvent. In both cases, a stubborn stain may remain on the fabric.
  • Plastic window sills, frames, slopes. Fresh composition is removed with a sponge, residues are washed off with a cleaning agent. plastic surfaces. The dried layer is cut off, the remains are washed off.
  • Linoleum, laminate. Fresh foam is removed with a hard object (spatula, piece of board), the remains are collected with a sponge soaked in cleaner.

To prevent such situations, in addition to the skin, it is necessary to protect the surfaces around it. It is advisable to cover them plastic film, rags or newspapers.