How to tie flowers in the garden. How and why to tie tomatoes in open ground. Cages for vegetables

So, let's try to figure out how to tie tomatoes in a greenhouse. Tying tomatoes is a simple procedure that involves attaching stems and branches to a support using ropes, strips of fabric, plastic loops and other materials. Tying is carried out immediately after pinching and formation of fruit ovaries. When the plant grows larger, the procedure will have to be repeated. Only some varieties that produce low-growing compact bushes do not require fastening.

It is necessary to tie up not only the stems of the plant, but also the branches with fruits. In some cases, it is worth securing them in two or three places. Do not tie knots tightly or pull plants too close to the support. If necessary, the fastening can be removed and the stem or branch tied in another place.

Benefits of proper garter

Proper staking of tomatoes in a greenhouse brings great benefits to the plants themselves, and also affects the result:

• Tomatoes do not tolerate moisture on their stems and leaves. Vertically standing plants can be watered at the root, which will help avoid rotting and;
• Hanging tomatoes are easier to collect, they are not affected by late blight and do not become prey for slugs;
• Heavy branches do not break even with a very large number of fruits;
• When tied, the plants receive more light and air, which speeds up the ripening of tomatoes;
• It simplifies the care of tomatoes: weeding, fertilizing, etc.

Photo

In the photo below you can see tomatoes in a garter greenhouse:

What to use for fastening

Securely fix Tomato bushes can be supported using supports and garter material. The latter can be narrow strips of soft cotton fabric, cut nylon tights or knee socks.

After harvest, the strips can be washed, disinfected and stored for use the following year. For tying, do not use thin twine, threads, fishing line, wire or other thin and hard materials that can cut or break branches.

Special devices with adhesive tape and a cutter, reminiscent of a hybrid of garden pruning shears and a stapler, are very convenient. Using such a device, you can quickly and accurately fix the branches at the desired height. The tape is easily removed and does not injure the plants. The clamp with tape is especially convenient when tying tall tomatoes to trellises.

Simple and inexpensive option– plastic clips, fastened with one movement of the hand.

They do not break, can withstand any weight, are easy to clean and can be used for several years in a row. The clips come in different sizes and can be used to secure both stems and branches with fruits.

Tying options

So, what are the ways to garter tomatoes in a greenhouse? There are several of them. The choice of fastening depends on the variety, height of the bush, yield, type of greenhouse and other nuances.

You need to think over the mounting scheme before planting the seedlings; this will simplify the care of tomatoes and help avoid damage to the roots and stems.

To choose the appropriate tying method, you need to try several options. Capital structures will cost more, but they will serve for several years without requiring additional devices.

Not only tomatoes, but also cucumbers, tall eggplants and other large plants can be attached to such supports.

Mobile temporary fastenings good for trial growing and frequent replacement of vegetable crops in a greenhouse.

Useful video

Watch the video below: gartering tomatoes in a greenhouse

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1-3 days after planting, the plants are tied to a trellis or stakes. In the greenhouse, support tomatoes are mainly grown, which are usually tied to a trellis. The guy wire should be 2 m high, or better yet 2.5 m. The cord is attached to the plant under the first or second leaf, or better yet, to a wire stuck into the ground. The cord is tied to the trellis with a sliding loop so that, if necessary, it can be lengthened or tightened. As the plant grows, the cord is wrapped weekly around the stem every 1.5-2 internodes (so that the plant does not slip along the cord). At the same time, make sure that when the stem thickens, the cord does not cut into it.

If the number of inflorescences is more than 12, the plant is thrown over the stretcher (tying it to it) and directed downwards or, more often, horizontally, laying it on its own or an adjacent stretcher. The work of pinching and pinching is combined with laying out plants on trellises, turning the inflorescences and fruits towards the sun.

If less than 5 inflorescences are left on each plant, instead of a cord you can use a stake (wooden, plastic, metal or fiberglass) with a length of at least 1.2-1.5 m. The stake is stuck into the ground at a distance of 7–10 cm from the stem, to north of it. The main stem, as it grows, is tied with soft twine to the stake, after about 30 cm, 3-4 times per season. It is better to tie it under the brush. Standard and bush varieties usually do not need supports.

Advice. Slats 1-1.3 m long are prepared in advance, their ends are nailed to pointed pegs (0.3-0.5 m). The pegs are easy to drive into the ground, and when they rot, replace them.

Determinate tomatoes are sometimes not tied up. However, to ventilate the plants, it is better to tie the stems to stakes or, raising the stems a little (40-60 cm), tie them to a low horizontal stretch.

Low-growing standard tomatoes are usually not tied up (but to prevent them from dying, they are hilled up in June).

Advice. If tomato plants grow in two or three stems or there are so many fruits that they break the branches with their weight, I. Maslov (ПХ 85-1.38) applies the method of tying the branches to a thick nylon thread, fishing vein, or soft wire. The hooks on which they cling are made of steel, aluminum or copper wire. To hang the stems and each tomato brush (especially if the mass of the brush is 2-3 kg), use elastic bands cut from an old bicycle inner tube, 3 mm wide for the fruits and 5 mm for the stems.

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The tomato bush has the ability to grow significantly both in width and height. And the size range for different varieties differs significantly. Balcony varieties have a height of 20-30 cm, and some indeterminate vines can reach 3 m.

If the stem of low-growing standard tomatoes easily supports the weight of its fruits in a vertical state, then the stem of other varieties bends to the ground even before the ovary forms. It is necessary to know the vegetative characteristics of tomato varieties and methods of staking plants in order to effectively help them form a good harvest and improve ripening.

Tomato plants require constant care and a number of agrotechnical measures, one of them is staking. Reasons why the plant requires garter:

• easier to process and process;
• convenient for watering, fertilizing and loosening;
• ventilation improves and the risk of developing diseases decreases;
• the fruit clusters of tied plants are open to sunlight and ripen better;
• fruits lying on the ground are attacked by slugs and other pests;
• The useful area of ​​the greenhouse is used rationally.

In addition to purely practical advantages, properly tied tomatoes in a garden or greenhouse have a neat, aesthetic appearance.

What varieties should be tied up

The majority of tomato varieties need gartering. The exception is low-growing varieties, the stable stem of which can easily withstand a few ovaries. Medium-sized, determinate tomatoes, when grown in hot climates in the southern regions, in open ground, also do not make sense to tie them up.

Their development and ripening occurs quickly, and even fruits that fall on dry soil ripen safely (due to low humidity).

In the middle zone, it is necessary to tie up all medium-growing and tall varieties, both indeterminate and determinate.

Advice! If the summer is damp and cool, then the garter will not harm even low-growing tomatoes, so that the stem does not lose stability under the weight of the fruit.

How to properly tie tomatoes

For gartering, you need to choose a material that would not injure the stem, be soft, not thin, and durable. For a small number of plants at home, you can take fabric cut into strips 3-4 cm wide, old underwear and even nylon tights. In mass production of tomatoes, linen twine is usually used.

Currently, manufacturers offer plastic holding devices for supporting fruit clusters and gartering shoots; they can be used repeatedly.

An even more advanced option is a garter device, which wraps a special ribbon around the stem and its support.

Devices for tying

1. Using individual stakes.

This type of garter is simple and affordable, but very labor-intensive and expensive over large areas. Individual support will be required for each plant. Can be used:

• wooden slats, tree branches;
• metal rods, remnants of fittings;
• plastic tubes.

The height of the material chosen for support should be 25-30 cm greater than the height of the plant, since this is the minimum depth to which a stake must be driven into the ground for stability.

It is not advisable to use such devices for tall tomatoes, since a support that is too high may not support the weight of the plant with fruits and may collapse.

1. Using trellises.

To implement this method of gartering, strong materials are pulled between two stable supports: wire, rope, cable, or a crossbar is installed. Below, at a distance of 35-55 cm from each other, other parallel rows are pulled. The growing tomato stem is tucked on one side or the other, threaded through rows of ropes or simply tied to them as the plant grows. Fruit clusters are additionally attached to parallel trellises using a rope or hook. The method is more suitable for plants formed into one stem.

1. Using linear trellises.

For this type of garter, only the upper trellis is stretched between supports that are installed among several seedlings. It must be strong and not bend too much, because several heavy plants will be tied to it at the same time. From the upper trellis, the material chosen for the garter (twine) is lowered down, which is used to tie the seedlings and, as they grow, the material is wrapped around the stem.

1. Cells.

With this method, a round or square structure is made for each plant from intersecting vertical and horizontal rods of wire or other durable material. The tomato bush is placed inside a cage, buried in the soil for stability. The method is quite expensive, it complicates the care of the plant, and additional garter to the cage itself is required.

1. Caps.

They are constructed from four tall rods, which are dug into the soil and connected to each other at the top. The design is designed for 4 plants, that is, one for each support. The cap can be used to build a shelter in the spring, but in general, this is a troublesome task.

Gardener's advice on how to tie up tomatoes:

How to make your own trellis design

A trellis is a rope, wire or crossbar placed above plants. To install a trellis, you will need strong supports in the form of wooden or metal poles. In greenhouses, the upper structural elements of the structure itself are used as fastenings for trellises.

Main conditions for production.

• The material for the trellis should be selected depending on the number of seedlings and the variety of tomatoes in order to support the weight of all the bushes. At the same time, the trellis should not stretch and sag, otherwise the plants will move and sag. For a linear trellis, it is better to use thick wire, an iron or metal crossbar. For several trellises stretched in parallel, the material may be thinner.
• The supports must be secured very firmly so that they do not collapse under the weight of the plants. Posts for long trellises need to be buried deep in the soil and stretched in the direction opposite to the direction of the trellis. It is better to tie tomatoes of the same type of bush to one trellis. The height of the structure depends on the variety: higher for indeterminate ones, lower for medium-sized determinate ones.

How and when to tie up tomatoes

In a polycarbonate greenhouse

Tall varieties of tomatoes are most often grown in polycarbonate greenhouses, so it is best to tie them to a linear trellis stretched over a row of plants. The sequence of work is as follows:

• a rope or twine is thrown over the trellis, their length should be 30-50 cm greater than the distance to the trellis;
• the stem is tied with a free knot (with the expectation of subsequent thickening) below the first true leaf;
• the garter material is wrapped around the stem in a spiral under each leaf and flower cluster;
• The upper end under the trellis is tied with a slip knot in order to be able to lengthen the thread after the next twisting.

Advice! For tying to the trellis, special hooks can be used, on which twine is wound with a reserve.

In the open ground

This is how most low-growing and medium-growing tomatoes are grown. For small plants, a garter is usually used on single supports (stakes). It is more rational to tie taller bushes to parallel trellises, cages and nets of intersecting trellises. The tomato stem is loosely wrapped with twine, its ends are crossed and tied to a support.

On the windowsill

Low-growing balcony tomatoes do not need to be tied, but if the variety has an unstable stem, then you can use a beautiful wooden or plastic peg and an original soft cord for tying.

The time and money spent on staking tomato plants will be repaid with a decent harvest and will allow rational use of the sown area.

Tomatoes, cucumbers and peppers can be placed all together in a greenhouse. But, to preserve the air space, it is advisable to tie up tall plants and make them grow upward. This will free up space on the ground for the creeping stems of a melon or watermelon, and will also allow rays of light to penetrate more to the ripening fruits.

What plants are best to tie up?

First of all, of course, garter refers to tall tomatoes, such as de barao. They quickly rush upward, practically without throwing out their stepchildren. Once the plants reach a critical length, they begin to fall. Or they simply immediately spread along the ground, which worsens the condition of the tomatoes and reduces fruitfulness.

Sometimes even low-growing tomatoes that bush a lot need gartering. Stepchildren can be scattered by a large tree, which again leads to a drop in yield and deterioration in the quality of the fruit.

It is also advisable to tie up peppers that tend to sap. This will help avoid bending of the stem and reduce fatigue of the plant, which has difficulty holding heavy fruits.

We also tie up cucumbers in the greenhouse, sending their stems along the shady wall to the roof. This not only frees up land space for other plants, but also makes it easier to water, harvest and care for cucumber shoots.

Garter: tools, equipment, methods of fastening

For street tomatoes, traditionally available means are used: a thin stake, a pole and a piece of rags. It is advisable to use a long strip of fabric from an old sheet. When tying in this way, the tomato stems are not injured and freedom of growth is maintained.

If gartering is being done in a greenhouse for the first time, you will need to prepare the equipment in advance. This year we installed a new greenhouse and installed a new system in it.

For the garter you needed:

• soft “Linen twine”;
• rigid twine (such as polyethylene);
• thick braided wire;
• old bicycle tire.

The garter method is old, to be honest, my mother spotted it in the Gaspadynya magazine, but we use it all the time, since we haven’t found anything better. Next we carry out the work step by step:

It is better to hang the system when the tomatoes have grown well and you can accurately determine where the plants and twine with loops will be located. It is first advisable to remove excess shoots from the tomatoes, remove excess leaves and weed the greenhouse.

How to tie?

Tomatoes should be supported even before the stems begin to fall. The loops are needed to hold the hook on one side. From the side of the stem, the hook grabs the elastic band.

The elastic band covers the stem, the hook is attached to two loops of the elastic band. It is better to pass the elastic under the junction of the leaf and the trunk or at the place where the stepson grows, then the system will hold better. But you can also attach it directly to the trunk; the elastic band does not slide along the stem. When tying, you should tighten the rope with loops well so that it pulls the trunk up, preventing it from falling to the ground.

As the stem grows, other loops are connected; tomatoes can be tied along the entire length of the stem. It is advisable to remove the lower elastic bands when two more appear on top. This will avoid pinching the stem.

With cucumbers it’s even simpler - when the stem reaches a length of 15-20 cm, a one-time garter can be made at the junction of the leaf and stem. After this, the growing stem is simply guided along a rope with loops. There must be loops or knots on the twine so that the cucumber can catch the mustache on the rope.

This type of plant staking actually does not take much time, but it allows you to free up a lot of space in the greenhouse. It’s worth giving one day to set up the system and then tie the stem according to the plant’s growth. Next year, the finished system can already be used in the spring. You just need to plant the seedlings, taking into account the hanging twine and replace the damaged ropes with new ones in time.

It is best to place a support during the replanting process or the beginning of growth, so as not to damage the root system. The main requirements for supports are good efficiency and invisibility.

If straight, arched posts are placed for support, then they mean installing a support. If a plant requires a lattice, wire mesh or stretched threads for development, then the term tying is used.

Support material. The best supports are made of bamboo (no higher than 1 meter). They are well camouflaged in foliage and are suitable for young plants. Three or four sticks are tied in the middle with a string, suitable for spreading plants (cyperus, parmannia).

Method of binding to a support. First, attach the thread to the support, then draw a figure eight around the stem (without pressing) and secure it again to the support. This method allows the stem to develop freely and increase in diameter.

Supports and arches for various plants

Supports covered with moss suitable for plants that form aerial roots (aralia, syngonium, hanging ficus).

Stair supports suitable for large plants (thunbergia, jasmine nightshade, solandra, stephanotis).

Support for daffodils. Installed at the time of planting the bulb. Thin bamboo sticks are used. The plant is tied with raffia.

Support for fragile plants. The peduncles of some types of orchids are very long and have up to 15 flowers. To prevent them from breaking, gardeners use hidden supports that follow the bend. The plant is tied with dyed raffia.

Place a piece of cotton wool under the dense but brittle amaryllis stems to reduce the pressure of the stem between the support.

With gratitude, Flora Life.