How to trim a panel door with fiberboard panels. Trimming an interior door video How to shorten an interior door

How to trim a panel door with fiberboard panels.  Trimming an interior door video How to shorten an interior door
How to trim a panel door with fiberboard panels. Trimming an interior door video How to shorten an interior door

After laying the laminate, the floor rose 2 cm, and one of the doors needed to be sawed down 1-1.5 cm from below.

Interior door, simple laminated, covered with MDF. Corrugated inside.

What could be used to file the door so that:
1) it was smooth
2) there were no chips or “brush” effect on the saw cut.

Cover the cut with masking tape.

Sawing with what? Drag it to any format. (saw for cutting sheet materials) Available in all large construction shopping centers and carpentry industries. Don't even try using a jigsaw or hacksaw. In theory, you can make a “frog” with a circular saw, but you need very straight hands.

Do you have any similar experience? I just don’t think that the shopping center will be happy if I bring them a door and say that it would be necessary to cut it off by 1-1.5 cm. I didn’t cut it in the shopping center, but I sawed off a lot of doors at a friendly production facility.

I sawed with an electric jigsaw, having previously wrapped it in masking tape. It doesn’t turn out very nicely, but if you don’t crawl along the floor with a ruler, it won’t be noticeable. How much did you saw off? What's inside at this height?

This is if you cut along a line, but if you run a jigsaw along the guide, then the file will be thin and will lead vertically. I sawed 16 mm as hard as I tried, the line is straight, but the vertical is moving. But the idea with the router is the best idea of ​​all.

Nope, it won't. There will be a “four” on plywood. On a 40 mm door leaf - no. With a circular saw - most likely it will work. Along the guide bar.

At Stroy Arsenal, they will most likely undertake to cut it off, and the price tag will be ridiculous. I brought them 32mm chipboard to cut. They took it at the rate of 35 rubles. for the detail. They can take the same amount out the door.

Usually the canvas is no thicker than 40 mm. That's exactly what the guy who was installing another door said.

Yes, the blade is 40 mm. Just sawing the door is a responsible task :-D And the opening was foamed, covered with platbands and no jambs are visible.

If the block is 5 cm, but you need to saw off 2 cm, then there is no problem - use a jigsaw and go ahead (adhesive tape for the “beard”).
But if you are afraid that you need to saw off more than the width of the bar (you will hit the compartment with the corrugation), then it is better to take it to those who have special equipment!

Moreover, if you cut without a guide bar, the blade will move less vertically. Because it is possible to press the jigsaw slightly left and right and control the blade (do not unfold it, but press horizontally)

With a block, the canvas moves much more precisely, even to the point of breaking if you overdo it.

You've inflated the topic! Normally these doors can be sawed with a hacksaw. and.a jigsaw!!! :-D

After installing new carpet, hardwood or laminate flooring, the door may become difficult to open and close, which means the door will need to be cut to length. This often happens when you buy a new beautiful door. If the difference in height is not very large, you can solve the problem by removing some material from the bottom of the door using planing or sanding. But if the difference is large, then it becomes necessary to cut off part of the door.

  1. What you need to know before you start

    If you have a hollow door, you can't cut too much off the bottom. These doors are simply a wooden frame with two fiberboards attached to it and cannot be trimmed more than 1cm; if you have a solid fiberboard or laminated door, you may be able to remove a little more. There are two types of interior doors: a panel (smooth) door and a door with an overlap. The panel door is completely recessed into the door frame and mounted on hinges. A slab door is partially recessed into the door frame, and its edge is on the outside of the door frame. These types of doors are installed on cylindrical hinges, which allow the door to be lifted by removing it from the door frame.

  2. Measurement


    If you want to replace an old door, the first thing you need to do is measure the size of the door opening. To do this, you can easily use a carpenter's ruler, which allows you to accurately measure. First you need to measure the height and then the width at the top and bottom of the frame. If there is a difference in width, take the size of the wider part. Add a 2mm gap at the top between the door and frame. If you are replacing a door, it is best to replace the hinges at the same time.

  3. Trimming to length


    To allow the door to open and close freely, leave a gap of 4 to 8 mm at the top and bottom. Mark with a pencil how much material needs to be removed from the bottom of the door. Then use a punch to knock the pins out of the hinges. Or if you don't have a punch, you can use a large nail.

  4. Straight line


    Next, use a square to draw a straight line across the entire width of the door at right angles to the vertical edges. Place the door on a sturdy workbench or trestle so that it is firmly supported. Remove the marked part at the bottom of the door with a plane or saw and finish the edge, leveling it with sandpaper. If you are using a planer, hold the tool at an angle to the direction you are planing. Then it will be easier to cut the plane.

  5. Belt sander


    When using a belt sander, high rotation speed must be taken into account, so perform the work carefully. Before you begin, check that the sanding belt is properly aligned - turn the tensioner knob so that the belt runs in a straight line over the support surface. Move the machine evenly over the surface. The machine sands very quickly, and if you are not careful, uneven sanding marks will appear on the wood. When sanding the door, it is best to use a 40-grit coarse sanding belt.

  6. Cutting a thin strip


    If you only need to cut a thin strip, it is recommended to press the wood strip against the bottom of the door. This will make cutting much easier. Protect the bottom edge of the door from moisture by covering it with paint or varnish. After this, you can hang the door on its hinges again.

  7. Adjusting the door width


    First check to see if the hinged edge of the door is parallel to the frame. If this is not the case, first of all you need to plane it to fit it. To leave the clearance necessary for the door to move freely in the frame, install a 6mm thick wooden strip inside the frame on the hinge side. Place the door on the rail. You can then mark the thickness of the material that needs to be removed from the edge of the door that will fit into the frame by running a pencil along the door frame.

  8. Completing door processing


    Place the door on the gantry and cut along the line you marked. If you have a door with a built-in window or several small windows and you need to remove more than 5mm, then you need to cut off half of this thickness on each side, otherwise the door will be asymmetrical. To ensure that the door can close smoothly, you can, if necessary, use a plane to make a downward bevel with a base 1.5 mm wide and inclined towards the inside of the door.

After laying the laminate, the floor rose 2 cm, and one of the doors needed to be sawed down 1-1.5 cm from below.

Interior door, simple laminated, covered with MDF. Corrugated inside.

What could be used to file the door so that:
1) it was smooth
2) there were no chips or “brush” effect on the saw cut.

Cover the cut with masking tape.

Sawing with what? Drag it to any format. (saw for cutting sheet materials) Available in all large construction shopping centers and carpentry industries. Don't even try using a jigsaw or hacksaw. In theory, you can make a “frog” with a circular saw, but you need very straight hands.

Do you have any similar experience? I just don’t think that the shopping center will be happy if I bring them a door and say that it would be necessary to cut it off by 1-1.5 cm. I didn’t cut it in the shopping center, but I sawed off a lot of doors at a friendly production facility.

I sawed with an electric jigsaw, having previously wrapped it in masking tape. It doesn’t turn out very nicely, but if you don’t crawl along the floor with a ruler, it won’t be noticeable. How much did you saw off? What's inside at this height?

This is if you cut along a line, but if you run a jigsaw along the guide, then the file will be thin and will lead vertically. I sawed 16 mm as hard as I tried, the line is straight, but the vertical is moving. But the idea with the router is the best idea of ​​all.

Nope, it won't. There will be a “four” on plywood. On a 40 mm door leaf - no. With a circular saw - most likely it will work. Along the guide bar.

At Stroy Arsenal, they will most likely undertake to cut it off, and the price tag will be ridiculous. I brought them 32mm chipboard to cut. They took it at the rate of 35 rubles. for the detail. They can take the same amount out the door.

Usually the canvas is no thicker than 40 mm. That's exactly what the guy who was installing another door said.

Yes, the blade is 40 mm. Just sawing the door is a responsible task :-D And the opening was foamed, covered with platbands and no jambs are visible.

If the block is 5 cm, but you need to saw off 2 cm, then there is no problem - use a jigsaw and go ahead (adhesive tape for the “beard”).
But if you are afraid that you need to saw off more than the width of the bar (you will hit the compartment with the corrugation), then it is better to take it to those who have special equipment!

Moreover, if you cut without a guide bar, the blade will move less vertically. Because it is possible to press the jigsaw slightly left and right and control the blade (do not unfold it, but press horizontally)

With a block, the canvas moves much more precisely, even to the point of breaking if you overdo it.

You've inflated the topic! Normally these doors can be sawed with a hacksaw. and.a jigsaw!!! :-D

During repairs, sometimes the floor level changes (laying tiles, pouring screed or self-leveling coating, etc.). After this, you have to cut the interior door in height to ensure its free movement when opening and closing. The same operation has to be carried out when replacing if the new door is very large and does not fit the frame. When installing a new frame, it may turn out that the size of the opening does not correspond to the product standard.

It is easy to shorten the blade at home using an electric jigsaw or a circular saw. But to get a neat and straight cut, you will need auxiliary tools:

  • clamps that will help fix the blade and guide bars;
  • ruler and square for marking;
  • sharp knife for working with veneered doors;
  • edge tape for MDF fabric;
  • sandpaper.

To protect the decorative coating of the door from cracking along the cut edge, you can use masking tape. If necessary, you can do without it.


Instructions for doing the work yourself

Before carrying out work, remove the canvas from its hinges and prepare it by removing handles and other accessories from it. The door is cut on a workbench, but if one is not available, a large, stable table will do.


If a solid wood panel needs to be adjusted to the opening due to sagging or rising floors, then it is best to trim the door from below. Take 2 height measurements: at the hinge part and in the vestibule. Transfer the measurements to the canvas, setting aside the new dimensions from the top edge. Draw a straight line through 2 points. To do this, it is advisable to use a long ruler and a square to control the right angles between the edges.

Attach the guide rail according to the marked markings. When using a power tool, it is better to use a metal strip or ruler. If you cut a door with a hand hacksaw, guides made from straight slats will do. Press the template to the canvas with clamps above the markings.


To preserve the layer of varnish and veneer on a polished door, treat it with a grinder. The tool's blade will leave a cut with smooth edges that cannot be made with a saw. You need to guide the angle grinder along the guide bar. Before processing, stick tape along the marking line and transfer the straight line to its surface.

If there is no grinder, the varnish coating on the part to be removed is removed with emery cloth, and the veneer is cut with a sharp knife on both planes of the canvas and on its edge parts. After this, the door can be sawed off along the guide.


Remove the clamps and sand the cut edges with sandpaper. You need to glue an edge strip onto a veneered door, matching its shade to the veneer. If the massive canvas is painted, cover the cut with paint or varnish. Hang the door leaf on the frame, eliminate distortions and attach the removed fittings.

Work is performed in the same sequence when replacing the canvas: the standard dimensions of the new product can be changed in height and width. When performing work, you need to consider what the product is made of.

A panel made of solid wood or MDF can be cut from the bottom if it does not have panels or their imitation. If there is a symmetrical decor, it is better to trim on both sides, dividing the size of the cut part by 2. These measurements are taken from each edge without disturbing the symmetry of the top and bottom panels. Do the same if you need to reduce the standard width of the door leaf.


Hollow frame doors should not be shortened too much. The product consists of wooden blocks of limited thickness. When performing work, you need to leave at least 1-1.5 cm of the frame bar inside the canvas. You can shorten the door as indicated for the design with panels - at the top and bottom.

When trying to install a standard door in a small opening, the molded frame materials are shortened to measure and secured in the opening. The dimensions of the sash will have to be adjusted using the technology described above.


Solid wood canvas sometimes swells due to excess moisture and does not fit well into the frame. This problem can be eliminated with a plane or a grinder (hand router). Remove the blade, place it on a workbench and process its edge with a cutting tool, removing a few millimeters of chips from the desired side. Hang the door and test its movement. If the problem is not resolved, repeat the treatment.


To get an even cut of an array when using a circular saw, you will need a disk with a large number of small teeth. But even under this condition, it will not be possible to cut the veneered product efficiently. For MDF panels, it is better to use a jigsaw, and carry out the work in compliance with the rules protecting the veneer layer (sticking tape, cutting through the veneer).


If it is possible to use a manual router, then you should only choose it for the job. The tool will make an even and clear cut, and the cutting line will not have to be processed additionally either on a massive product, or on MDF or a frame model.

To properly apply the edge tape, use PVA glue and an iron. The adhesive layer must be applied to the cut of the canvas and allowed to dry. Place the tape on the edge of the door and iron it through the paper with a hot iron. After cooling, cut off the excess tape with a sharp knife and lightly rub the edges with sandpaper.