How to connect a five-arm chandelier. We connect a chandelier with three wires to a double switch How to connect a chandelier with three shades

Unknowing people may think that even a non-specialist can connect lighting fixtures. After all, in fact, here you only have to deal with a couple of wires coming out of the ceiling. But there are situations when the owner has difficulties with this, due to the presence of three wires in the chandelier instead of two. What to do in this case?

Necessary tool

To connect the chandelier without errors, you first need to prepare certain tools:

In addition to the above items, you must have a stepladder or a stable stand, a marker, a sheet of paper and a passport for the lighting device.

Determining the purpose of wires in a chandelier

To eliminate the risk of errors during connection, it is advisable have an electrical diagram available, which is usually present in the passport for the lighting device. From it you can easily understand how to correctly connect a chandelier, since each wire has a designation and there is an order in which they should be connected. Based on current standards, they must have the following color codes:

• white or brown color - phase;
• blue color - zero;
• yellow-green color is a protective grounding color.

It happens that there is no passport for a chandelier and it is difficult to understand by the color of the wires which one corresponds to what. In this case, you can understand how to connect a chandelier if you have a multimeter - a special device that allows you to determine their purpose.

Connecting a double-circuit chandelier to an electrical network with two and three wires

If the task is to connect a chandelier with three wires, then the first thing you need to do is get more information about the switch and the wires sticking out of the ceiling. Most often you have to deal with a two-key switch and three wires. In this situation, understand where the phase wire is and where the neutral wire is.

1. First you need to prepare an indicator screwdriver or voltage indicator.
2. Make sure each key is in the on position.
3. Take a voltage indicator and touch it to the stripped end of each wire. If we find a phase, a light on the voltage indicator will indicate this.
4. After we have detected a phase, we mark it with a marker.
5. Turn off the two-gang switch and touch each wire again. In none of the cases should we see a burning light bulb.
6. The time has come to connect the chandelier phase to the previously found electrical wiring wires. We do the same with neutral wires. To create a contact, we you will need a terminal block or the wires can be twisted using insulating caps or electrical tape.
7. In conclusion, you should make sure that the chandelier is working properly - just turn on the keys one after another.

Two wire connection

For a chandelier that is connected to a single-key switch, and only two cables protrude from the ceiling, you need to perform the following steps. After making sure that the switch is turned on, you need to use a voltage indicator to find out where the phase and neutral cables are located. Having found the phase wire of the chandelier and electrical wiring, they should be connected to each other. The same applies to neutral wires. Next, you need to find out how the chandelier works at different positions of the switch keys.

Three wire connection

For a chandelier, which is also connected via a single-key switch and has three cables in the electrical wiring, you should first understand for what purpose the third is needed. Need to turn the switch to the on position, and then find out which cables have voltage. If the test results show that two wires are phase, then the correct solution would be to install a two-key switch. In this case, the connection will be made using a three-wire circuit.

When only one cable shows the presence of a phase, while the third has yellow-green insulation, the connection diagram will be similar in relation to the phase wires - they must be connected to each other. As for the cable, which is grounding, it should be removed after insulation.

Connection with ground wire

You should think about grounding the chandelier if its design includes a metal body. For new apartments, a mandatory requirement regarding electrical networks is presence of a grounding cable, having a yellow-green color. If you live in just such an apartment, then the procedure for connecting the chandelier will be as follows: we look for cables that have the required color, and then connect them to each other using a terminal block or by twisting.

Those who live in apartments with old networks that do not have their own special color markings will have to do differently:

At the very beginning, you need to study the cables that protrude from the ceiling and understand how many there are and what they are needed for. If, based on the results of the examination, it became clear that there are only two of them, then you need to move the double switch to the on position, and then take a voltage indicator and find out where the phase and neutral wires are located. After solving this problem you need turn off the double switch, connect the phase wires of the electrical wiring with the phase wires of the chandelier, do the same with the neutral wires and isolate the grounding.

For a chandelier with three wires, the procedure will be similar. If it turns out that the network is represented by two circuits, and the lighting device operates using a two-key switch, then the phase and neutral wires of the lighting device must be connected to the corresponding electrical wiring wires. Finally, the grounding conductor is insulated.

What to do if the wires are not long enough?

Those owners who live in houses built several decades ago, where there is a double switch, should be prepared for the fact that they may need to extend the existing wiring or increase the length of the wires coming from the chandelier. Although there are many connection options, it is best to use a terminal block for this purpose. In terms of design, this device looks like a plastic block with conductive plates. In turn, the data plates are equipped with screw clamps, used to connect wires across a switch.

If you decide to use this option, you should make sure that access to the terminal block is provided. Frequent problems are loss of contact or excessive heat, creating a risk of fire resulting from loose screw connections. If there is no space to install such a block, the best solution is to place it, providing for the laying of one wire connecting the switch and the chandelier. But you must avoid connecting them by twisting, otherwise they will begin to oxidize, which will ultimately lead to their heating.

Safety precautions

Keep in mind that any work with electrical wiring poses a danger to life, and therefore must be performed very carefully. This also applies to connecting household electrical appliances via a double switch. Before connecting the device and connecting the wires, you need to make sure that the switch is turned off and the wiring is free of voltage. Where they were twisted need to insulate using special caps or electrical tape. If you are unsure that you will be able to correctly connect a chandelier with three wires, then instead of taking unnecessary risks, it is better to invite experienced electricians to do this work.

Chandelier with remote control - luxury or convenience?

As technology continues to improve, new products become available in the market. This is exactly what lighting fixtures with a remote control should be considered. Their peculiarity lies in the presence of the design of control elements. If you install such a chandelier in an apartment, you will have the opportunity to turn off the lights in the bedroom while in a warm bed, and also you will not cause accidental injuries, because in the dark on the way to the bed they did not see a corner or wall.

Even a non-specialist can install such chandeliers: they are installed using the same technology as other light sources. Connecting such a chandelier is not difficult; just use one of the diagrams described above. Turning the light on and off is possible thanks to the built-in controller.

And even despite the fact that such an advanced chandelier model has appeared in your home, it is still recommended to leave a regular wall switch in the room. He will be able to help you out in situations when you lose the remote control for the chandelier or do not replace the batteries in a timely manner. After all, it will be extremely inconvenient for any owner not to be able to do ordinary things in the absence of light.

In general, connecting a chandelier does not seem to be such a difficult task. If you have knowledge about the key nuances of performing this procedure, even a person who has not done this before can easily cope with this task without turning to specialists for help. And later he will be able to correctly connect lighting devices of a more complex design.

After reading the title of the article, someone will probably say, “why about this?” something like that write, any apartment owner can handle this kind of work himself.” Yes, of course, installing and connecting a chandelier does not belong to the work of the highest category of complexity, however, these processes also have specific nuances, on which, by the way, the safety of living in the apartment depends.

The chandelier is connected to electricity, and all electrical appliances, if not installed correctly, installation become source of danger - electric shock or even fire. In addition, this lighting device is often quite massive, and can cause a lot of trouble if it is not securely fixed to the ceiling. Thus, the whole complex of problems associated with how to connect a chandelier with your own hands is conditionally divided into two directions - ensuring its correct connection to the electrical network and its reliable and most beautiful placement on the ceiling plane.

Find out useful information from our new article.

What to consider when choosing a chandelier

It is clear that the vast majority of apartment owners choose this lighting device, relying primarily on its external design, so that it matches the overall interior design of the room. However, we must not forget about some other aspects of choice.

• The total light output of the chandelier must correspond to the size and type of room for which it is intended. There are certain standards of illumination, which can be briefly presented as follows:

— For rooms where soft diffused, dim light is required (a typical example is a bedroom), you should proceed from 10 ÷ 12 W/m² of area.

— For rooms with an average level of general illumination (kitchen, bath, toilet) or where it is planned to install additional lighting for specific workplaces (office or children's room) the norm will be from 15 to 20 W/m².

— For rooms with bright lighting (living room), this figure is taken equal to 20 W/m².

In accordance with the calculated power, a lighting device with the required number of horns should be selected. An important nuance - in no case should you increase the overall illumination by using more powerful lamps than allowed by the manufacturer. The material of the lampshades, sockets, and the cross-section of the internal wiring may not be designed for increased loads, and this will lead to damage to the device or even a fire hazard.

• The dimensions of the lighting fixture must be in harmony with the overall dimensions of the room. A huge chandelier will look ridiculous in a fairly cramped room, or, on the contrary, one that is too small will simply get lost on the ceiling plane of a vast room. Designers recommend proceeding from the following considerations:

— The optimal diameter of the chandelier can be approximately determined by the formula:

D = ( L+ S)×10

D – diameter of the chandelier in centimeters

L And S – length and width of the room, respectively, in meters.

So, for example, for a room measuring 5 × 3 m, the best option would be a chandelier with a diameter of 80 cm.

• The type of chandelier you choose depends on the height of the room. If the ceilings in the room are low, about 2.5 m, then it is better to give preference to the ceiling version of the lighting fixture, so that there is at least 2.0 ÷ 2.2 m from the floor to it. The suspended option will be appropriate in a room with high ceilings, and here the length of the suspension will be determined only by aesthetic considerations.
• Be sure to compare the type and material of the ceiling with the weight of the chandelier and the method of hanging it - this will be discussed below.
• Chandeliers are most often sold disassembled, so special attention is paid to completeness, matching threads on all collapsible parts, and the integrity of decorative elements. Be sure to check for clear and understandable installation instructions for the product.
• Unfortunately, the lighting market is literally oversaturated with cheap and low-quality products and outright counterfeits of well-known brands. Such products can be equipped with cartridges made of low-grade plastic, which is not designed for high temperatures. They will give out a counterfeit product due to poor-quality installation of the electrical part, twisted wires, lack of terminal connections, etc. Often you have to independently carry out reconnection of wires, their unsoldering and insulation according to all the rules. This is especially true for “sophisticated” chandeliers with LED additional circuits, power supplies or current transformation, remote control devices, etc. In order not to take on these extra troubles, it is better to choose a product with really high-quality cable and electrical components, ask the store to assemble it and check the functionality of the product.

Prices for chandeliers and ceiling lamps

Chandeliers and ceiling lights

Dealing with the wires on the chandelier and on the ceiling

In this article we will not consider particularly complex options with chandeliers stuffed with electronics - their installation in most cases will definitely require the services of an appropriately qualified specialist. But everyone should be able to connect an ordinary chandelier on their own.

First of all, a few theoretical questions in the field of home electrical wiring. As you know, the power supply in our area is organized with a standard voltage of 220 V and a frequency of 50 Hz. Household wiring is carried out through two wires - phase and neutral. If the house has a grounding loop (in modern housing this becomes a necessity and most often, in new buildings this issue is provided for in advance), then a third wire connected to the grounding bus is included in the wiring.

There is a generally accepted color marking for wires in a single-phase electrical network:

A characteristic nuance is that if the neutral wire is always blue or blue in color, and the grounding contact is yellow-green, then the color of the phase wire can vary:

Often, several phase wires of one or more colors can be assembled in one cable - this is used, among other things, when connecting lighting devices, to switch different modes of their operation:

Ideally, both the chandelier and house wiring should use the same color coding. However, practice shows that in both cases this rule is not always observed. For example, in old houses, aluminum or copper wires in single-color insulation were used for wiring. In this case, you will have to deal with them yourself.

When working with electrical wiring, special attention should be paid to safety measures. It is strictly forbidden to touch bare wires with unprotected hands unless the general power supply is turned off. You must wear shoes with rubber soles. To work near the ceiling, you need to provide a reliable base - an unstable stool or bedside table can lead to loss of balance, falling and injury. For these purposes, the best option would be a stepladder mounted on a rubber mat.

1. So, the simplest option is a cable with two wires coming out of a hole in the ceiling. It is clear that one of them is phase, and the other is zero. According to existing rules, the neutral must go directly to the distribution box, and the phase must be interrupted at the switch. Nevertheless, it doesn’t hurt to check - very often electricians “don’t bother” with these issues.

• To check, you need to have a special device - a phase indicator. Most often it is designed in the form of a screwdriver with a transparent body, although modern models may have a different design, including even an indication of the phase voltage value.
• First of all, it is necessary to completely de-energize the room or the entire apartment at the distribution panel. This is necessary in order to thoroughly strip the wires of insulation and oxides to a length of 5 ÷ 8 mm. After stripping, the wires are spread as far apart as possible to prevent short circuits. After this, turn on the machine on the dashboard.
• Then, with the switch in the off position, both wires are checked sequentially. Neither should show the presence of a phase. If there is a phase on one wire, it means the wiring in the house is not done correctly - the “zero” on the switch, apparently, is interrupted. It is very difficult to change anything in this case - you just need to keep this in mind, taking special care in further work.

• The phase is checked in the same way when the switch is in the on position. As a result, a phase wire will be identified, which can be marked in a certain way (with a marker or colored electrical tape).

2. If a switch with two or more keys is installed in the room, then from the ceiling the holes should be the appropriate number phase wires. The test is carried out in the same way as described above, with each phase marked separately, in accordance with the location of the switch keys.

A similar check should be carried out even if color-coded wiring is installed - simply to eliminate mistakes by the electrician who once installed it.

3. Now - about the cable part of the chandelier itself.

• The easiest way is when the chandelier has one or two or three arms, without dividing them into groups. All wires from the cartridges are assembled into two contact groups - neutral and phase. If there is a ground wire, it is usually attached to the metal body of the lamp.

• In the event that it is necessary to divide the horns with cartridges into two or more groups, then all the blue “zero” wires are connected into one bundle, and the phase wires are divided into several, according to the number of keys on the switch.

Very often on chandeliers this can be seen quite clearly, and such switching will not be difficult.

The simplest case: all the wires are in full view

• In both cases, the bundles of twisted wires should be thoroughly soldered and placed in a screw terminal block or separate spring terminals.

• It is somewhat more difficult to understand when the design of the chandelier does not make it possible to visually understand its internal wiring. However, you can figure it out here too by calling all the outgoing wires using a multitester. To do this, you can sequentially screw an incandescent lamp into the sockets (an energy-saving fluorescent lamp will not help in this case), and experimentally find out which horn is powered from which wire. After this, it will be easy to distribute the horns into groups.

To “ring” hidden wires you will need a multitester

There are other methods for determining the internal wiring of a chandelier, based on calculating the resistance of the circuit with lamps of the same rating screwed into all sockets, but in practice it is probably easier to simply ring each horn.

So, the result of checking the chandelier circuits and fixed wiring in the room should be a clear understanding of the circuit, prepared for switching and marked wires on the ceiling and groups of contacts on the lighting fixture itself.

Video: diagram of connecting a five-arm chandelier to a two-key switch

Mounting a chandelier on the ceiling of a room

If everything has become clear with the electrical part, it is necessary to ensure that the chandelier is securely fastened to the ceiling. The technology of operation depends on both the design of the chandelier and the type of ceiling covering.

Hanging a chandelier on a hook

This is an old and proven method of installing chandeliers, which have a special loop, ring or hook for this purpose.

In older multi-story buildings, hanging hooks were installed in ceiling openings during the construction stage. If it’s standing, then there’s less of a problem; however, it doesn’t hurt to still test it for strength. To do this, it is necessary to hang a load with a total mass twice the weight of the chandelier planned for installation. If such a load can be easily withstood, then there should be no special concerns.

What to do if the old hook is unreliable or its condition does not inspire confidence that it will withstand the load? It's okay, you can install it yourself.

In principle, there should be no problems with a wooden ceiling - a hook-screw can be easily screwed into it.

There can be various solutions with a concrete floor slab:

— You can hang the hook on a transverse steel rod, which is inserted into the cable channel of the slab. When doing this, be careful not to damage the wiring running there with the rod.

— Another option with an old hole in the ceiling is to insert a hook with a butterfly lock into it. Having passed into the cable channel, the “wings” of this fastening will straighten and create the necessary support, and all that remains is to fix the entire suspension with a washer and nut.

Hook with spring lock-butterfly

— If this option is not possible, for example, in the case where there is no “standard” opening for the hook, it will be necessary to drill a hole in the concrete floor for a plastic dowel, but it is better still for a metal anchor with a ring or hook.

Before drilling, it would be useful to evaluate the direction of the wiring from the junction box to the outlet on the ceiling, so as not to accidentally break the cable with a drill or break its insulation.

If, when drilling, an internal cavity of the slab is encountered, use a special metal dowel for hollow-core structures – with screwing it in forms a “skirt” that securely holds the fastening element in the ceiling.

After installing any type of hook, it should be tested for load - as described above. It is recommended to then insulate the protruding metal part by wrapping it with electrical tape or putting a heat-shrinkable tube of the appropriate diameter on it, followed by heating.

If the hook is reliable, you can hang the chandelier using the standard mount. Be sure to turn off the general power supply to the room in order to connect the contact part. The wires are connected using terminal connectors - twisting is not allowed, as sparks may occur on them and the insulation will melt. The connection is carried out in full accordance with the wiring diagram described above.

The place of the contact connection of the wires and the suspension on the hook is usually covered with a decorative glass (cap).

After completing the installation, turn on the power supply at the panel, then at the switch to immediately make sure there are no short circuits. It doesn’t hurt to check with an indicator that there is no phase on the metal body of the chandelier. If everything is normal, then with the switch keys turned off, the necessary lamps are screwed in or inserted into the socket and the practical functionality of all chandelier arms is checked in all switching modes.

After checking, you can begin the final installation of the chandelier - installing shades, hanging all removable decorative parts, etc., according to the assembly instructions attached to the product.

Installing a chandelier on a mounting plate

Many manufactured chandeliers, especially those intended for low rooms, are not hung on hooks, but are installed using screw fasteners on a special mounting strip fixed to the ceiling. This significantly improves the reliability of the overall installation, since the load is evenly distributed across multiple attachment points.

The design of the mounting strip can be different - it all depends on the specific model of the chandelier and its weight. The strip may be straight or curved, with brackets to secure the light fixture housing, or with protruding studs or screws.

The set with particularly heavy chandeliers may include cross-shaped strips or in the form of a reinforced I-beam profile.

The strip may have a hole with grommet-lined edges to accommodate wires coming out of the ceiling. You can also place the bar in close proximity to the cable exit point - the body of the installed chandelier will hide both the hole in the ceiling and the wiring connection.

The mounting strip is attached to the ceiling plane in various ways, depending on specific conditions. In fact, this is described above, with the only difference that instead of dowels with a ring or hook, ordinary ones are used, with a pressure head “under hide».

Just as when using a hook, the reliability of the fastening under load must be checked.

The fastening must be checked under load - to prevent situations like this

Quite often a situation occurs when placing the dowels too close to the old hole in the ceiling does not ensure reliable installation - the edge of the concrete may crack or crumble. So the optimal choice of fasteners and installation location still remains with the direct performer of the work.

Attaching the chandelier itself to the mounting plate may also have its own characteristics. In this case, you may need help - the lamp will have to be held suspended while the cable part is being switched. After the wires are connected, the chandelier body is secured to the bar with decorative nuts or screws.

Further work on performance monitoring and final installation is no different from what was outlined above.

Features of attaching a chandelier to a plasterboard ceiling

By and large, you should plan the placement of the chandelier even before its installation. In this case, no problems are foreseen - one or several additional metal profiles are provided in advance for attaching the mounting strip or is installed a hook that can then be easily extended using a chain or barbell. A hole is immediately marked in the plasterboard sheet and drilled in the right place for the wires and hook to exit.

But what to do if this issue of hanging a chandelier arose later?

• In the case when the lighting device is of a pendant type, it is impossible to install the hook directly into the gypsum plasterboard - its strength is unlikely to be sufficient for a point load. You can do this as follows:

A hole is drilled in the ceiling with a diameter smaller than the decorative cap of the lamp.

Exactly in the center of this opening, with a long drill installed in a hammer drill, a hole is drilled in the floor slab for an anchor fastening.

An anchor with a long threaded pin is inserted and fixed as far as possible in the hole made, so that the pin extends out beyond the plane of the drywall.

An eye-nut is screwed onto the protruding end of the stud, from which the chandelier itself will later be suspended. The excess hairpin is carefully cut off with a hacksaw.

Spring “butterfly” with hairpin

If there is a void or an old hole in the ceiling - that’s it Also, as when working on a regular ceiling, only the fastening elements do not have a ring, but a long threaded part, so that it goes out.

• If the chandelier is of a cantilever type, that is, installed on a mounting plate, then much depends on its weight.

— In the case when the total weight of the fixture does not exceed 3 - 5 kg, you can attach the bar directly to the gypsum fiber board sheet. For this purpose, special dowels for drywall are used - “butterflies” or snails.

Butterfly and snail dowels for attaching parts to drywall

The former are held as a result of the expansion of the plastic structure under the sheet of drywall when screwing in the self-tapping screw. The second has a different principle of operation - a very high and sharp thread with a large plane of contact with the sheet material creates a reliable connection when screwed in. The “snail” is screwed in completely, flush with the surface of the gypsum plasterboard, in the right place, and in its center there remains a hole into which a regular self-tapping screw can easily fit.

— If the chandelier is heavier, then to attach the mounting strip you will have to resort to the method with anchors with studs. - - as described above. The protruding threaded parts of two or more studs will become fasteners for a rack or cross-shaped console.

All further actions are no different from installing a chandelier on a regular ceiling.

Video: option for attaching a chandelier to a plasterboard ceiling

Prices for various types of anchors

Anchors

Mounting a chandelier on a suspended ceiling

No practical advice on how to independently install a chandelier on a suspended ceiling will be given - this should only be done by craftsmen and exclusively before hanging the ceiling sheet.

Read detailed information about what is important to know in our new article.

To install the chandelier, a mounting platform is prepared in advance and suspended from the floor slab, the lower cut of which should fall at the planned height of the stretched fabric. Based on the location of this embedded platform, craftsmen must cut and properly process the holes themselves, strengthening their edges through which wires and fasteners will pass.

Attempting to independently cut holes in order to hang a chandelier on an already installed stretch ceiling, using working techniques similar to a plasterboard ceiling, will not lead to anything good. With a probability close to 100%, they are doomed to failure. The deplorable, but logical result of such amateur activity will be the need to completely replace the canvas.

After the ceiling craftsmen have completed the work, leaving the necessary holes for the chandelier and fasteners, reinforced with special grommets, the installation of the lamp is carried out with the utmost care, so as to in no case allow the surface to rupture or puncture.

On a suspended ceiling, it is preferable to use a suspended one so that the lamps are not in close proximity to the canvas. In addition, ordinary incandescent lamps, “halogens” or fluorescent “housekeepers” are not suitable for these purposes - they will quickly ruin the decorative effect of the ceiling covering. Therefore, in order for the ceiling to retain its attractiveness for as long as possible, only LED models are needed.

Video: example of installing a chandelier on a suspended ceiling

Operation of a two-key switch, light switching modes. Schematic connection of a chandelier for 3,4, 8 cartridges. Dividing wires into groups, markings on the ceiling. Safety precautions and following the advice of electricians.

How to connect a chandelier to a two-key switch

Having the desire or if necessary, owners are faced with replacing lighting fixtures. However, when changing the lamp, the switch is left the same. There is a connection problem. There are varying numbers of wires sticking out of the ceiling that need to be connected to the lighting fixture. Before you figure out how to connect a chandelier to a two-key switch, you need to decide how many light bulbs it will have.

Operating principle of a two-button switch

A switch with 2 keys is an element for adjusting room lighting. It can be used to turn on one lamp or a group.

The two-key device consists of:

• keys – activated by simultaneous pressing or one at a time;
• frame - removed during installation;
• terminal blocks – connection points.

Some products have a built-in backlight located on each key or at the bottom of the frame. If there is no backlight, a phase cable goes into it, but two phases come out, the switch is placed in a gap.

Operating principle of the built-in switch:

1. The first key is on – one lamp is on (first group).
2. Key 2 is on – the lighting will change. The second group, another lamp, or all connected lighting fixtures will light.

There are two-key models called modular. They are isolated, the operating principle is a single-key model.

The model with 2 keys plays the role of energy saving and changing the general background.

Switch connection diagram:

Is it possible to connect a chandelier to a double switch yourself?

Yes. But, before you start working with electrical devices, you need to familiarize yourself with safety precautions, distinguish cables by color (PE, L, N), study the connection diagram of the lamp, have tools and insulation on hand.

In order for the chandelier to decorate the ceiling of the room and to work correctly, connect to the switch in strict sequence.

Before connecting, you should familiarize yourself with the safety precautions:

1. The tools used must have insulated handles.
2. Before work related to electricity, turn off the power to the panel. That is, this is a meter (private house), electrical panel of the apartment. Disconnect the plugs (if there are no buttons, they are unscrewed).

Do not work with live electrical appliances in wet areas. Water is a conductor of electric current.

How to recognize wires

All cables of private houses and apartments have differences in color. This is a kind of hint for inexperienced people.

Standards:

Yellow cable - grounding, PE designation. Designed to ensure that during operation of the electrical appliance there is no current “small trembling”.

Zero – blue or cyan color, symbol N.

Phase – all other colors indicate L.

In old houses and apartments, all electrical wiring is the same color. Grounding is extremely rare. Therefore, equipment and tools are used to determine the phase.

There are 3 or 4 cables coming out of the ceiling. These are two phase cables from each key, one “zero” from the distribution box, grounding. Check with an indicator screwdriver. When checking, turn on the voltage, the keys are alternately in the “on” position. A wire without voltage is zero. It is designated. The remaining cables are phase cables.

In the lamp, all wiring is connected according to the accessory. That is, a modern lighting device contains phase leads for each horn, 1 zero, 1 ground.

In a lighting fixture with 2 arms, the phases are not connected. This means that you can make a connection so that either one light bulb or all will light up.

Grounding is connected immediately. After this you need to connect the zero. Chandelier-ceiling. The phases are removed from the device and connected to the corresponding keys.

Both lamps will light up simultaneously when 2 keys are pressed at once.

Connections should be insulated. Only after this turn on the power supply from the panel or meter.

The three-arm chandelier contains 3 lamp sockets. They have 2 contacts: N, L. The connection is carried out according to the same algorithm as a lamp with 2 horns, only one switch key will turn on 1 lamp, and the second - 2 light bulbs.

If you press both keys at the same time, all the horns will light up.

The neutral cables from each horn are combined, the grounding is connected immediately.

The phases are divided into 2 groups.

Connection diagram for 4 bulbs

There are 2 phases coming out of the 2-key model, and zero, grounding, and phase cables are visible from the ceiling.

The connection can be made in 2 ways:

1. 1+3=alternately turning on 1 lamp - 1 key and 3 lamps - the second key.
2. 2+2 = 2 light bulbs turn on alternately. Moreover, you can make it so that 2 lamps located next to each other or crosswise are lit.

If you turn on both keys at the same time, 4 horns will light up.

The connection principle is as follows:

1. The cables coming out of the lighting fixture are different colors or all the same. Then they make a call and mark the value (N, L).
2. Grounding - it can be immediately connected to the ceiling.
3. The blue ones are connected with one terminal - 1 blue wire comes out of the ceiling.
4. The phases are divided into groups: the first - 3 wires, one separately or 2 groups of 2 pieces.
5. Next, use terminals to connect the twists on the light fixture and the ceiling.

The twists are insulated so that they do not come into contact with each other.

When dividing into groups, so that the phase does not fall into the “zero” twist.

5-bar chandelier

A common “zero” comes out of the five-arm chandelier. It must be marked (maybe with electrical tape). Sometimes there are several blue wires, they are combined with one twist.

Attention. The distinction can be made using an indicator - whether there is voltage or not. If there is voltage - L, otherwise - N.

Phase wires are divided into 2 groups:

1. The first twist will consist of 3 phases - one key will turn on 3 lamps.
2. The second group - 2 phase twists - 2 horns, the other with a power key.

When the keys are turned on at once, 5 lamps light up.

After the groups have been created, the chandelier is connected to the wiring. After checking, if the wrong groups of lamps are lit (randomly), you can re-twist 2x3 (groups) by changing the phases.

Connecting a device with 6 lamps requires good wiring. Further, the two-key model for turning on the light provides operation in three modes: turning on the lamps in groups (2 modes) and turning on the lights in general. In this case, at least 3 wires should come out of the ceiling.

Let’s say group 1 – 2 lamps, 2nd – 4 lamps, third mode – all lamps are in working condition.

There are 12 wires coming out of the chandelier, 2 for each horn.

You need to select all the blue wires or those marked when ringing, connect them with one terminal (1 twist). The remaining cables are connected in groups (these are phase). 4 wires one terminal and 2 the other.

Before connecting the wires of the lamp to the ceiling, using an indicator screwdriver, determine the line L, zero N, as well as the assignment of L1, L2 to the keys. They do this with an indicator at constant current, with the keys turned on alternately. The found wires are marked with a marker or electrical tape. After this, you need to de-energize the network, connect the finished chandelier (connect zero to zero, and phase to phase). Grounding is connected immediately.

Scheme for double connection of a chandelier for 8 bulbs with 4 wires

4 wiring are visible from the ceiling: 2 phases (from the keys), 1 neutral, grounding.

Sometimes wires of the same color come out of the lamp. To determine phase and zero, it is necessary to ring with a multimeter and mark them in the same way as on the ceiling (so as not to confuse them).

“Zero” comes in one twist, because there is 1 neutral cable on the ceiling. Phase wiring is divided into 2 groups: 8 lamps are 3 lamps and 5 or 4x4, 2x7 and so on. Afterwards, the created groups of insulated wires or placed in terminals are connected accordingly to those marked on the ceiling.

To connect a lighting device to 2 keys, you need to follow some advice from electricians. This will help avoid mistakes.

1. Power tools only with insulated handles. You cannot work with “naked” pliers under voltage.
2. When dividing into groups, you must be careful and ensure that a zero does not get into the twist with the phase.
3. The twists are insulated. When exposed strands come into contact, there will be a short circuit.
4. To ensure accurate operation of the lighting fixture, check that the switch is installed correctly. Zero does not enter, and the phase wire enters one - goes out to the ceiling 2 - from each key.
5. To be sure, the same wires ring.

If you follow the advice, the work will be completed without errors. The lighting fixture will work properly.

Connecting a chandelier to a two-key switch will not take much time, even for a person doing the job for the first time. The main factor is the correct division into groups, as well as the designation of phase and zero on the ceiling. You must strictly follow safety precautions. Insulate the exposed strands and make the connection step by step.

Useful video

A chandelier with several light bulbs or, in other words, horns is not only a harmonious element of the interior, but also an opportunity to shape the lighting in the room for different circumstances. Sometimes the most important circumstance is the need to save kilowatts, because a brightly burning chandelier, although it looks festive, will also be noticeable in the monthly payment for light. There is a compromise between a single lamp under the ceiling and a bright chandelier - a two-key switch. It allows you to adjust the lighting modes in the room at the request of the owners. All that remains is to figure out how to connect the chandelier to a double switch.

We will prepare the necessary

Chandelier connection tool

Since all electrical work involves the risk of electrocution, hanging and plugging in your new chandelier will require careful attention and concentration. Therefore, prepare all the tools and small things in advance so that they are at arm’s length. Here's what you'll need:

• a set of screwdrivers with different heads;
• indicator screwdriver;
• multimeter;
• pliers with insulated handles;
• terminal clamps;
• knife and electrical tape;
• a stable chair or stepladder.

Getting your bearings on the area

Classically, where the chandelier is mounted on the ceiling there is a hook for it. But most modern chandeliers are mounted in a completely different way: on a metal strip with several fixation points. This complicates the work somewhat, because... You may need a drill or screwdriver, and it would also be helpful to have help from your family to support the chandelier so that your hands are free.

It would be great if the new chandelier came with a passport that contains a diagram for connecting to the power supply, but more often than not chandeliers do not have such a passport, so it is necessary to learn and know in the future how to connect the switch to the chandelier.

Connecting a chandelier using terminals

Let's count the cables on the ceiling. The arithmetic here is simple: if you count only two wires in the center of the ceiling, this means that the option with a two-key switch is definitely not yours. No matter how many wires come out of the chandelier tube, without laying an additional cable in the thickness of the walls and ceiling or replacing the wiring with a three-core cable, you will not be able to realize your plans for turning on the lamps in the chandelier one by one. There must be at least three cables. What is their purpose? Two of them are phase conductors, one is a neutral conductor. Only if there are two phases on the ceiling can you connect a chandelier to two switches and create different degrees of illumination.

Attention! When purchasing a lighting fixture, pay attention to the number of wires coming out of the chandelier you like: there should be three or more. Otherwise, this chandelier is designed for all lamps to be turned on and running at the same time.

We work safely

You will have to work directly with electrical wiring, so it should not be energized at the time of all work. To completely protect yourself from electric shock, you need to not only make sure that the switch is in the “off” position, but also completely turn off the circuit breakers on the panel.

Attention!!! All work should be carried out only on de-energized equipment.

Before testing the cables, disconnect them and make sure that they do not touch in the future. Cables have accepted markings in Latin characters:

• L – phase wire;
• N – neutral;
• PE – yellow-green color.

In general, cable markings are not always found. What do you do if you don't see any signs? Go to the panel and switch the circuit breaker to the “on” mode. You return to the chandelier and, armed with an indicator screwdriver, touch it one by one to the bare ends of the wires coming out of the ceiling. The cable to which the lit LED in the screwdriver will correspond will be a phase cable.

Now you need to turn off the power in the apartment again and you can get to work.

Let's move on to connecting the chandelier to a double switch

Connection diagram of a chandelier to a double switch

Connecting the chandelier

So, you already know that connecting a chandelier to a double switch is only possible when there are three wires on the ceiling and on the chandelier. Sometimes you can see a whole bunch of wires coming out of the chandelier. This means that the chandelier manufacturer has left you the opportunity to form groups of lamps according to your preference.

As an example of connecting a chandelier to a two-key switch, consider the case when four cables are brought out of the ceiling. Most likely, you have already guessed that the fourth cable is nothing more than. In modern electrical installation practice it is usually designated “PE”. It has a yellow-green color and all that is required is to connect it with the chandelier wires of the same color, having previously combined their contact. The function of this wire is to divert dangerous voltage from the chandelier through the grounding bus into the soil.

Old-style apartments and chandeliers, unlike modern new buildings and European equipment, do not have grounding. Then there will be no fourth cable and you will not need the above steps. Or, if the grounding is still removed from the ceiling, but is not provided for in the chandelier, then this cable must be carefully insulated.

Attention! The fourth cable may also be a phase! The presence of a third phase conductor on the ceiling gives you a unique opportunity to form three groups of chandelier lamps, but then you will also need a corresponding switch - with three keys. If you don’t need the third phase, feel free to isolate it.

Let's move on to the most important thing. Now you need to assemble together, ensuring reliable contact, the phase and neutral cables of each group of light bulbs on the chandelier. For example, in a five-arm chandelier it will look like this:

• the first group of lamps (two lamps) – we connect two phases into one and two neutrals into one;
• second group (three lamps) - we connect three phases into one and three neutrals into one;
• we connect the neutral cables of both groups into a common zero;
• result: two phases and a common zero come out of the chandelier, for a total of three prepared contacts.

Observing the markings and purpose, these three wires are connected to wires on the ceiling corresponding in color and purpose: the first phase to the first phase, the second phase to the second phase, zero is connected to zero.

Don't use twists! Twisting is a very common method, but far from safe. The places where the twists are not fully touched often overheat, causing their insulation to dry out and lose its protective function. Use express connection terminals, it is fast and reliable.

Chandelier connection diagram

If the chandelier wires are the same color

The chandelier manufacturer may not have left any markings on the cables and their identity can only be clearly determined by using a multimeter. How to proceed:

1. You need to unscrew the lamp from the chandelier and visually determine the phase (spring in the center) and neutral (located on the side) contacts.
2. We are looking for a neutral wire. To do this, touch the side contact in the socket with the multimeter probe, and touch the stripped cables at the exit of the chandelier with the second one in turn. If a sound signal appears at the moment of touch, it means you have found the neutral wire. Tag it.
3. The same actions are performed when searching for phase cables, only the probe touches the middle contact in the cartridge. The device will emit a signal when a phase is found. The wire should be marked as a phase.
4. if there are a lot of cables on the chandelier, then you can understand which phase and which zero belong to which of the bulbs only by probing each circuit with a multimeter. The found phase wires are alternately connected to the central contacts of the light bulbs. The sound of the device will indicate whether the wire matches any of the lamps. You also need to do the same by searching for zero. The result will be the number of contours found, which corresponds to the number of horns in the chandelier. You have to independently form them into two groups.
5. , if present, is also identified with a multimeter by the sound signal, touching the metal body of the chandelier and the desired wire with the probes of the device.

Two-gang switch

A two-key switch has a common phase and two neutrals, one for each key. The common phase conductor diverges into both keys and, when switched on synchronously, powers both lighting circuits, while alternate switching on will power only one of the circuits.

From this article you will learn what cross-section of wires is needed to connect to a chandelier, how to ring and determine the phases on the ceiling: we are looking for a grounding wire, we are looking for phases and zero, the designation of the chandelier wires.

How to connect a chandelier in a simple way, rules for connecting wires, connecting a 2,3,4,5, 6 chandelier to a single and double switch and many other questions.

Design features of the chandelier

Chandeliers are most often used as lighting devices in residential premises - multi-lamp lamps designed for installation on the ceiling.

A chandelier is a structure that connects several lighting elements - light bulbs - to provide good lighting in the room.

If you use a regular light bulb in a room, then to ensure proper lighting you will need to install a powerful lighting element, and even then, if the room is large, it will not be enough.

But such light is not always needed, so the best option is to use several lamps.

But in the case of using ordinary light bulbs, each of them will have to run its own wire or branch from the junction box.

But if you install a chandelier, the design of which involves installing several light bulbs, then the complexity of the connection will be the same as for one or more light bulbs.

But at the same time, all lighting elements included in the design will be powered, and from one wire.

And all because the wiring branching occurs at the entrance to the chandelier, and not in the junction box.

Well, don’t discount the aesthetic side of the issue. A lonely light bulb hanging on the ceiling looks dull, or maybe a beautiful chandelier.

To get good lighting in a room with a perfect combination of lighting fixtures with the interior, it is not enough just to purchase a suitable chandelier, you also need to hang it and connect it correctly.

What is taken into account before carrying out work?

Let's immediately identify a few key points that should be taken into account:

And one more thing - it’s one thing to simply remove the old lighting device and connect a new one in its place, and quite another thing to completely create a lighting power line, including from the distribution board, installation of switches, junction boxes and lighting devices, and then connecting them into one network.

We will not delve into the specifics of independently installing the power supply branch of a chandelier, since we are more interested only in how to connect the lighting elements, although some points regarding wiring will be touched upon.

Helpful information

Let us immediately point out some features that can help:

• Breaking the circuit with a switch is carried out only through the phase line, and the neutral conductor and grounding conductor (if any) go directly to the consumer;
• For each branch, a separate phase wire is laid at the output of their switch (It is separated in the switch itself. A single-key switch has one phase conductor at the output, a two-key switch has two, a three-key switch has three). This affects the wire used leading from the switch;
• On the terminal blocks of the chandeliers you can find the designation of the terminals, which makes the connection easier (the marking “L” indicates that the terminal is phase, “N” is neutral, “PE” is grounding).

Now directly, how to connect the chandelier to the switch.

Let's assume that the line is made in advance, the switch is in place, and 2 or 3 wires stick out from the ceiling (with the third wire being “ground”).

In general, the connection diagram is the simplest - “one-key switch - 1 lighting fixture.”

If the chandelier is armless (with 1 lamp), then the connection method does not differ at all from powering a simple light bulb.

It also greatly simplifies connecting a chandelier to one or more light bulbs.

Single-key switch – 1 chandelier

Before starting work, you should determine which wire is which. It would be good if modern wiring with color differences between the cores was used. At the initial stage, only “land” is of interest.

If the electricians did not mess anything up, the ground wire will have a yellow-green braid.

But you will have to figure out the phase and zero yourself and for this you will only need an indicator screwdriver, but all precautions should be taken, since the test is done in live wiring.

Therefore, before applying voltage, you should make sure that the ends of the wires are separated in different directions and do not touch each other.

And only after this can voltage be applied (you also need to turn the switch to the “on” position).

After we touch the ends of the wiring with the tip of the indicator screwdriver, the indicator light that comes on when touched will indicate that the core is phase, which means the second one is zero.

If there are three wires at the output, and it is not clear which of them is zero and ground, you can use a test light to determine it (we connect a two-core wire to a regular 220 lamp through a socket). Then we identify the phase with an indicator screwdriver.

If the lamp lights up after applying voltage, then the second wire will be zero (if it doesn’t light up, the “ground” is connected to the control). For reliability, the wires should be swapped.

After determining where each wire is, all that remains is to connect them to the corresponding terminals of the chandelier terminal block, and then secure it to the ceiling hook. In general, everything is as simple as shelling pears.

The diagram for connecting the chandelier to two terminals is as follows:

If the circuit is three-wire, then the connection is made like this:

Now let’s assume that the chandelier is a two-arm chandelier and you need to connect it to a single-key switch.

Each horn is a branch and two wires must come from it (phase and zero), but the “ground” is connected to the body, so it does not go to the branches.

Let's assume there are blue and brown wires coming from each horn.

To connect the chandelier, you need to separate the wires of the horns by color and twist them together (the blue ones are separate from the brown ones).

Then we connect them to the power line, and it does not matter what color the wires will be phase and neutral.

For example, we connect the brown wires through the block to the phase conductor, and the blue wire to the zero.

Then we isolate everything and check its functionality. Here we note that with such a connection, no matter how many bulbs there are in the chandelier, they will all light up when turned on.

It happens that the third wire in a chandelier or wiring is superfluous (ground is not provided in the lighting fixture or power line).

In the case of a chandelier, we simply ignore this output (this will not affect the performance in any way), but the grounding conductor of the wiring will need to be insulated.

In general, this is a general diagram for connecting a chandelier and it is identical for everyone, but there are some nuances that will be indicated below.

A little about wiring connections. To do this, you can use either terminal blocks or conventional twisting followed by insulation with protective caps.

Each connection method has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Terminals are more convenient for installation, but it is not always possible to install it.

The twist is more compact in size, but it is not always possible to twist the wires well.

Two-button switch - chandelier

Now let's talk about how to connect a chandelier to a two-key switch.

Since the number of lamps and their division into groups can be very different, we will consider several options:

One switch – several chandeliers

Now let's look at how to connect several chandeliers to one switch. Here you will also have to consider the features of the power line.

For example, let’s take a single-key switch that will power three chandeliers at once.

The lighting line diagram with this switch is as follows: phase and zero go from the switchboard to the distribution box.

A wire goes into it from the phase conductor to the switch, and returns to it again.

As a result, in the box we have a zero and a phase (with a switch included in the circuit), to which we can connect the wiring leading to the consumer.

Therefore, in order to connect three chandeliers to this switch at once, it is enough to throw one common line and insert the phase and neutral wires of the lighting devices into it.

Moreover, it is better to connect each chandelier to a common line in distribution boxes (they additionally need to be installed). And then in the chandelier itself, divide it into horns (branches).

Connecting a chandelier with additional equipment

Now about connecting the chandelier in which the fan is mounted. This lighting device does not require anything special to connect, since the fan is the same consumer as a regular light bulb (that is, the circuit is the same as that of a two-arm chandelier).

It should be connected to a two-key switch so that you can turn off the light or fan if necessary.

Also, when connecting such a chandelier, you should read the instructions, which should indicate which of the wires going to power the fan is phase and which is neutral, and use this information when connecting.

The same applies to chandeliers that have remote control using a remote control.

Inside such a device there will be a special executive unit with a controller that receives signals from the remote control.

So, this unit requires power, and it works on the same principle as a light bulb.

But in chandeliers with LED lamps, the lighting elements operate from a 12V network with direct current. And for this purpose, the design of the lighting device contains a step-down transformer, which has phase and neutral terminals.

Connecting this chandelier is as easy as connecting a regular light bulb.

Sometimes there is a need to install a combination switch to power the chandelier, combined with an outlet.

And here the whole peculiarity lies precisely in connecting the switch itself, and not the lighting device.

Since there is an outlet, in order for it to function, both phase and zero must be supplied to it.

And if only a phase conductor was routed to a conventional switch, then a neutral conductor will also have to be routed to the combined one. The connection diagram for such a switch is presented below.

There are times when the part of the supply wiring protruding from the ceiling is not enough to connect the chandelier. In this case, you can simply increase them.

To do this, you can take two pieces of copper wire with a cross-section of at least 1.5 mm. sq. and connect them to the line terminals using twisting. Then the connection points should be properly insulated.

Popular with readers: disadvantages and advantages of the device.

Safety precautions

When connecting a chandelier, do not forget about safety precautions. All work should be carried out only with de-energized wiring. Moreover, simply disconnecting the line at the switch is not enough; it must be de-energized at the distribution board.

You need to be very careful about the distribution of wiring before connecting.

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