How to sand parquet at home. Sanding parquet with your own hands - stages of work. Varnishing the floor covering

Parquet is the favorite surface of millions of people around the world. Proper polishing and harmoniously varnished flooring will add magnificent elegance to the interior and will make the eye pleasing every time you enter the room.

What it is?

Parquet board is a type of wood covering, the laying technology of which is based on gluing together several planks of wood material. Sanding or scraping parquet is polishing and leveling the floor using various tools and technical means. It is achieved through the force of friction.

It is worth remembering that for floor coverings you will need a special coloring material. As for the putty material, it differs from construction putty.

The article will discuss its main types.

When is it used?

Parquet flooring, especially if it was made from not very quality material, needs periodic updating. If the premises are constantly in use, then such work can be repeated several times a year. These include restoring parquet flooring, removing and replacing parquet boards, updating baseboards, and eliminating holes.

If the floor creaks, you shouldn't endure the painful sounds. As a rule, the reasons for such a squeak are subsidence parquet boards, incorrect base (parquet underlay), incorrectly placed parquet.

One more common problem is the detachment of parquet. Its main causes are parquet wear, artificial floor heating, poor-quality material, strong mechanical impacts from impacts or prolonged pressure from furniture legs.

To restore the floor yourself, it is not necessary to have extensive experience in sealing swollen parquet boards. Of course, to do well redecorating or completely renovate the site, it is advisable to have experience in such a matter. It would be nice to find a familiar craftsman who can help you remove or upgrade the coating.

Floor restoration is a common desire to improve comfort conditions.

Features of the technology

The process of floor restoration requires a certain amount of care. After all, haste and lack of instructions can lead to loss of time and money. Restoration technology is selected depending on the problem, and in some cases, the owner’s budget.

If we are talking about an incorrectly selected or placed backing, you will need to remove parquet flooring. As for these two factors, they are possible due to unprofessionalism of the craftsmen or due to independent thoughtless installation. Failure to comply with the rules usually leads to such consequences.

If you have no experience, you should consult a specialist in the store. If possible, it is advisable to contact good master. The instructions must be strictly followed. Having saved 30-40 minutes, you will be able to wake up your loved ones with a squeak or throw the board into the trash bin ahead of time.

The underlay is also of fundamental importance when laying parquet. It serves as a shock absorber that softens the pressure of wood against bumps and imperfections on the surface of the screed. Constant pressure will quickly lead to squeaking, wear and, as a result, the death of your coating. We must not forget about the neighbors who live below. It is the substrate that is the sound insulator. But don't rush into choosing it. Consultants often tell incorrect information in order to sell the product faster. The seller's statement that the thicker the underlay, the higher the quality of your flooring, does not convey adequate information, nor does the fact that the underlay can brighten up all screeds.

Contrary to the opinion of many consultants, roll substrate is considered better than its sheet counterpart.

The base must be level relative to the flooring. Then a substrate 2-3 mm thick will be just right. It must be remembered that a substrate made of any material repeats all surface defects. To level the surface, various sheets, many types of plywood and various mixtures are used.

The type of substrate is chosen at the discretion of the owner. They differ in environmental friendliness, quality and resistance to external factors. In any case, consult with specialists to ensure that your repair is as technical as possible.

Experts believe that in the range of two linear meters there should not be a deviation from the horizontal by more than 2 mm. Otherwise, the board will begin to sink.

The next reason may be a small number of fasteners or their incorrect placement over the area laid parquet. Despite following many instructions, some arrogant “masters” try to make their own adjustments. Fasteners must be in the places specified in the instructions; their number should not be reduced at the discretion of the owner if he does not have experience in finishing floors.

A common reason for the need to restore parquet flooring is detachment of the upper parts of the parquet, swelling. To eliminate them, you need to identify “sore” areas, mark them with a marker, drill holes and glue the separated layers.

The next defect is holes in the floor, scratches, dents. The reasons become strong mechanical stress, wear and drying out of parquet, frequent use . As a rule, they are filled with cement-sand or quick-drying mixture. If, when drying out, the distance between the dies is more than 0.5 mm, it is customary to talk about complete wear of the parquet. Sanding won't help here. And sealing can take a lot of time and effort and will not return your floor to its original appearance.

When working with your hands, you will need gloves, as mortars upon contact, irritate skin.

It is necessary to prepare a finishing spatula, which can be used to eliminate local damage. Perhaps such an update will help get rid of the creaky floor.

Materials and tools

Having figured out the cause of the problem, you can begin preparing the material and tools. Before repairing, weigh your material possibilities. Often the work started is not completed due to the excessive emotionality of the owners. A floor covered in dust and tools is no better than creaky parquet. You need to find out prices in different stores, they can also vary greatly.

Not everyone understands how grinding differs from sanding. Scraping is a kind of tearing out the surface for comparison with unevenness. Grinding is essentially the same as sanding, only abrasive materials are used instead of a machine.

You also need to understand what an abrasive material is. This is the surface that has a cutting edge rough surface. It is designed for manual floor leveling. In our case, we can use it to eliminate local damage or irregularities. The most famous of them is sandpaper. If we are talking about “major” grinding, then you will need a grinding machine. Otherwise you'll have to crawl. This is also a completely adequate way, but too time-consuming.

There are a huge variety of grinding machines. Are used different materials for nozzle. Their surface area may vary. There are sanders that use a dust suction function. Some builders even connect such devices to special vacuum cleaners.

Before sanding the floor, you need to consult with a specialist, indicating to him the area of ​​the floor, the material, and the last time the parquet board was updated. A grinding machine can be purchased at a tool store, construction equipment store, or a regular hardware store.

Of course, such a solution may not be the most economical option. Therefore, it is better to rent the necessary equipment. One extra call can save more than one hundred, and perhaps even more than one thousand rubles. Often, large construction stores offer rentals of angle grinders and various types of equipment. It is possible that this device can be found there.

Material for putty is also needed. It eliminates cracks and cuts on the floor. Its color must match the color of the floor. You need to be vigilant when choosing material. Even consistency can play an important role. After some time of application, it may change color greatly.

You need to be careful not to stain the floor with the solutions you use.. To protect it when working with grinding, special varnishes, pastes or gels are used. Based epoxy resin A special technology of “epoxy or polymer flooring” has been developed. A special paste is made from the resin, which subsequently spreads evenly over the surface and gives the floor excellent evenness and shine.

If you need to paint parquet, you need to decide on varnishes or other coloring materials. It is also possible to make tinting based on mixing several tones.

Step-by-step instructions for performing the work

When working in commercial or government premises You shouldn't be free with your ideas. There are often special requirements when working in such places. A children's playroom will have more stringent requirements than a typical corridor for business clients. Not allowed in some rooms wood coverings or the floor is too slippery. GOST requirements may leave your efforts without approval.

Restoration material should be purchased from a large store or a store with a good reputation. Construction mixtures may have a surrogate composition. Counterfeit materials can be extremely toxic and unsuitable for use.

In order to do this or that job correctly at home, you need to study the instructions as carefully as possible. As stated, it is highly advisable to work with someone experienced in hardwood floor restoration. If there is no finishing specialist nearby, you can attract a builder working in a different direction or even a furniture maker. They are also very knowledgeable building materials, solutions, know how to work with equipment.

Before sanding, you need to remove the old varnish. A sponge soaked in white spirit is useful for this. When working with a sander, the floor is covered with protective varnish. The parquet material and some other components influence the choice of device parameters.

After this, abrasive (emery material) is filled into the machine. The first pass is made with the coarsest abrasive No. 40. First, the machine is driven diagonally along the laying of boards. When working with coarse-grained abrasives, it is highly recommended not to press hard on the machine. The paper changes as it wears out.

As each next layer passes, less and less abrasive is taken, and the grinder is shifted by 50% of the width of the drum. Movement along the fibers begins the second time. Floors with boards at the base are sanded in the direction of the grain. At each stage of work you need to monitor the cable. Under no circumstances should it be allowed to get under the drum.

If you want to do grinding in four stages, abrasive attachments are taken in the following order: start with No40, then No60, then No80, and finally No100 (No120). When sanding in three stages start with No40, then No80 and end with No120. To grind efficiently and evenly, the machine should not move quickly. Do not hold the switched-on sander above the floor without moving. Otherwise, you can remove excess material.

Before completing the work, the gaps between the boards are filled with putty. This is done with pastes of the appropriate shade or special mixtures. After puttying, you must wait for them to dry.

The surface of inaccessible places is polished with a “boot” machine designed for this purpose. As a rule, these are places in corners and under pipes.

After all the measures taken, you need to clean the floor using a vacuum cleaner. The first coat of varnish is applied. For good coverage Varnishing is applied in three layers. When the last layer dries, the floors are washed with ordinary soaps to eliminate stickiness. You need to wash with warm water.

You need to be careful in your work and have the appropriate mood. Careless removal of the top layers of parquet can lead to trouble. This may not spoil the renovation, but it may partially distort the overall picture of the interior.

Coating preparation

The parquet must be repaired before sanding. The surface of the apartment is completely cleared of furniture and belongings, and the floors are thoroughly washed. The condition of the parquet is fully checked. Each bar needs to be tapped. A dull sound that appears when tapping indicates voids that have appeared in the parquet. As a rule, this occurs due to the strip coming off from the base and the formation of a void underneath. These types of planks need to be drilled.

Used to eliminate cracks parquet glue. It is poured using a special construction syringe. You need to put a load on the parquet and leave time to dry. As a rule, this is done with a weighty object.

If there are dried drops of adhesives, paints or other stubborn stains on the parquet, you need to arm yourself with a scraper. Nails or screws protruding from the floor must also be removed.

Looping

Today, scraping and grinding are almost synonymous. But if you go deeper into exact value these concepts and draw the line, it turns out that the scraping process is slightly different from grinding.

A distinctive feature of the scraping process is that no abrasive materials are used when working in this way. This is often done manually.

The word “scraping” itself gets its name from special device"cycle". This hand tool for scraping, which scrapes, but does not harm the wood surface. Its design is very simple - a sharpened metal plate fixed in a handle. She can work in hard to reach places . This process takes a lot of time. Therefore, you need to carefully weigh your options - evaluate your budget, the amount of work and find the most rational option.

As already mentioned, all the nails, and various items must be completely driven into or out of the floor. The scraping starts from the corner of the room. Further movements are made according to the snake principle.

First they remove the most upper layer. It is the dirtiest, its presence is unacceptable for working with putty. After this, they begin to process the seams and holes. Putty must be carried out carefully.

The color of the putty must match the color of the coating. You can continue cycling only when you reach completely dry.

putty

The application of this type of material can become in a good way floor restoration. It helps restore the surface and level it. When diluting the putty solution, you must follow the instructions. Failure to comply with the proportions or adding your own ingredients can lead to a change in the properties of the solution. Wasted money, damaged parquet, lost time can be the price to pay for such amateur activities.

Materials for putty can be purchased at a regular hardware store. It is important not to forget about spatulas, gloves, scrapers and other possible tools.

To seal cracks yourself, you don’t need to have a lot of experience, but it’s better to consult with a finishing or construction specialist. He will show you how to putty and give recommendations on mixing the solution.

It is worth remembering that parquet putty is different from construction putty. The lifespan of your parquet depends on the quality, application and choice of material. As a rule, putty is powdery or made in the form of a paste.

It comes in the following types:

• Solvent based. This putty is easy to work with. Drying occurs in a short time. Its main component is wood shavings. This allows them to be combined with all wood species.
• Acrylic mixtures do not emit toxins, are environmentally friendly, and are often used for grouting joints.

• Oil putties contain oil, water and chalk, known to everyone since childhood. They have very long term shelf life, but due to the oily consistency they dry out for a very long time after application to the floor and greatly slow down the speed of work.
• Polymer mixtures are environmentally friendly. Often used in places with high sanitary requirements. They do not have electrostatic properties, so they do not attract dust.

Final work

After completion of work, the room is brought into full order. This is usually done with a vacuum cleaner.

Before applying varnish, the floors are wiped with a special cloth. It is recommended to soak the fabric in a solvent.

Parquet has been used as a floor covering for a long time. Having it in the house is not a cheap pleasure, but best material I can't find one for finishing the floor. It will last for decades if it is take proper care.

The maintenance process itself consists of two stages: sanding the parquet and covering it with a protective material, usually varnish. Grinding is not an easy procedure; it is performed mainly by professionals, but you can try and gradually do everything yourself.

Equipment

The main tool for sanding parquet is Sander.

It is presented on the market in several types, differing from each other in the working part:

• drum type. The design uses two drums with abrasive material mounted on them;
• tape It differs from the previous model in that it uses a fairly wide abrasive belt. This provides greater coverage of the grinding area;
• disc or surface grinder. Typically used for grinding hard-to-reach areas (for example, under radiators) and for finishing floor. There are professional three-disc machines;
• vibration This is a subtype of the disk model, but more universal. With its help you can carry out both rough and fine grinding;
• eccentric Most modern look grinders that work quickly and efficiently due to a special design (displacement of the axis of rotation of the grinding body relative to the axis of the shaft);
• corner This is a subtype of the disk model, which is used for processing hard-to-reach areas.

It should be noted that a grinding machine is expensive equipment. It is better not to purchase it for one-time use. Usually it is rented, fortunately this service is provided in many cities today. In addition to this apparatus, for sanding parquet you will need sandpaper, a vacuum cleaner, brushes and a roller.

Preparing the premises

First of all, the room must be cleared of furniture that is on the floor. Since there will be a lot of dust, it is advisable to cover everything that cannot be removed with film. Then the baseboards are removed. After which it is necessary to inspect the parquet floor itself for the strength of fastening of each block to floor base. If such defects are found, they need to be repaired.

Usually the die is removed (it can be replaced with a new one if the old one turns out to have large defects), and the base under it is cleaned. And then they are laid on the adhesive composition.

If repair operations have been carried out, time must be given to installed elements stuck well to the floor.

First stage

The grinder is loaded with sanding tape or a disk is mounted. For the first pass, that is, roughing, you will need sandpaper with coarse grain. Typically material number 40 is used.

Note! The first pass is carried out along the wood fibers. This will ensure an even cut of the top layer without difficulty.

The important point is correct setting working part of the machine. Or rather, its degree of pressure against the parquet. To do this you need to use a clamping screw. It's important to catch here golden mean: squeezed - resulting in overheating of the device’s engine and a thick cut of the top layer flooring, they didn’t put the pressure on - they lowered the quality of parquet polishing.

Periodically you need to stop the machine to check the wear of the abrasive. A stop can only be carried out with a moving device; if the shutdown is carried out on non-moving equipment, then there is a high probability that a depression will appear on the floor where it stopped.

Sanding with coarse sandpaper should be carried out until the floor is completely level. You can move the machine for a new pass by half the width of the sanding drum.

Second phase

Before proceeding to the final sanding of the parquet, it is necessary to fill the gaps between the wooden dies. For this purpose, special acrylic-based putty solutions are used. After they dry, you can move on to final processing flooring, which is based on operations to smooth out minor flaws remaining after initial grinding.

To do this, you will have to change the abrasive material on the machine to a finer-grained one. Usually use number 120, and make the first pass, removing minor defects. The surface of the parquet can be brought to maximum smoothness using sandpaper number 150-180. For household use This optimal sizes, there is no point in using smaller ones. In this case, the transition from larger grains to small ones must be carried out smoothly.

Sanding hard-to-reach areas

This operation cannot be considered a separate stage. Sanding hard-to-reach places on the parquet is carried out in the same way as the main surface of the floor. That is, first they use an abrasive with large grains, then putty them, and lastly - finishing using fine-grained abrasive material.

It is necessary to strictly follow the sequence of work performed. First, the main surface of the parquet is sanded, then hard to reach areas. If it is not possible to grind some areas with machines, then you will have to do everything manually. To do this, use a scraper for the first stage and sandpaper mounted on a grater or other device for final sanding.

Varnishing the floor

The easiest way to check that a parquet floor is one hundred percent ready for varnishing is to run your palm over its surface. If your hand does not feel any flaws and feels the smoothness of the surface, then we can assume that the parquet is ready.

The next operation is dust removal, for which it is used regular vacuum cleaner. It should be noted that all models of modern grinding machines are equipped with bags for collecting dust. But small particles of wood will still find their way out of the gaps and crevices, so that a thin layer of them will eventually settle on the floor. We need to get rid of him.

Now about varnishing the parquet. This stage is not easy, because the varnish is applied in several layers. In this case, it is necessary that each layer dry thoroughly before applying the next one. This may take at least 4-5 hours. But the longer the varnish dries, the better. The stages of coverage are as follows:

• primer treatment;
• after it dries, it is necessary to grind it using a diamond mesh number 220;
• applying two layers of varnish, each of which is also sanded;
• The last layer should dry well. After which it is additionally treated with a special gel, which fixes the varnish.

The process of applying varnish is done with a roller; in hard-to-reach places, a brush is used. There are several requirements for carrying out the varnishing process. Windows and doors in the room must be closed and drafts must not be allowed. Optimal temperature varnishing parquet: +22…25 ℃.

As for the choice of varnish, the market today offers several types, which are based on different raw materials: acrylic and urethane, linen and wood resins. The most environmentally friendly are water-soluble varnishes. Acid-curing and polyurethane varnishes are more durable.

It should be noted that resin-based varnishes are toxic and take a very long time to dry. Perfect option– water-soluble, but with a caveat: they can only be used in heated rooms.

When there is no point in sanding a parquet floor

There is no point in updating the coating only if it is badly damaged. Factors that make it impossible to sand parquet include:

• flooding of the floor, due to which the wooden dies swelled and warped;
• the parquet flooring has dried out to such a state that gaps larger than 5 mm have formed between them;
• the floor is completely or partially covered with mold or fungi, it has been eaten away by wood-boring beetles;
• large defects in the form of potholes, chips and cracks;
• the parquet was worn out to such a state that the thickness of the tiles became less than 5 mm.

All these defects are the causes of improper or heavy use of the floor covering. Often the reasons are illiterate installation of the material and the use of low-quality parquet, for example from unseasoned wood.

Features of polishing parquet boards

It should be noted right away that to sand a parquet board with your own hands, you must already have some experience in handling sanding machines. The board is covered with veneer on top decorative wood, and it is important not to rub it through. Sanding for parquet boards is a gentle type of renovation, since it can be removed very thin layer material.

Note! It is not recommended to sand the parquet board of a floating floor yourself, as this can lead to the locks between the dies coming loose or the drum slipping.

It is also not recommended to process material coated with special protective layers wear-resistant varnish, patina, tinting. Sanding will damage the protection and it will be impossible to restore it. A simple, natural-colored board is sanded in the same way as parquet, but even more carefully and with more precise adjustment of the thickness of the removal of the top layer.

Particularly parquet. Although parquet is durable and unpretentious, periodically refreshing its surface does not hurt.

Tools for sanding parquet with your own hands

Hand grinding tools and equipment

The machine grinding method is the fastest and most effective, but too expensive. Therefore, if with in cash It’s difficult to rent equipment; you can solve the issue of floor scraping using a manual scraper.

On wooden handle this tool is fixed metal plate, sharpened on one side and jagged on the other. This makes it convenient to cut off a layer of old varnish, but your hand gets tired quickly, and the short handle of the cycle does not allow you to take a comfortable position for working. Therefore, it is better to carry out grinding in an automated way, using a manual scraper only in those corners that are difficult to process with a grinder.

Among the advantages of a manual scraper are the absence of dust and the ability to remove a good layer of wood from the surface. Another way without special costs sand the floor using an emery cloth. It is carefully cut to the size of the foot and attached to the shoe sole, which is used to wipe down the floor. This is also quite labor-intensive, but quite acceptable.

Grinding machines - types, tasks

Full scraping is carried out in several stages and each of them requires a certain type of devices and equipment. Let's look at them:

• PSHMBT - drum-type parquet sanding machine - is used for deep processing of any type of wooden surfaces. In the territory former USSR Such machines are produced in the Russian Federation and Ukraine. The device is equipped with a drum and a pump, which collects all waste generated during operation into a special collection bag. Domestic grinders have significant drawback– the presence of rubber, which is glued to the drum part. If the abrasive is clamped weakly or the machine encounters a nail protruding from the floor, rubber turns out to be the most weak point, which is damaged first. The cost of equipment is from $1,300 and above.
• PShM – surface grinders equipped with 1 or 3 discs. The Germans are considered the leaders in the production of such machines; their Lagler Trio costs about 10 thousand dollars, and such expenses are justified. PShM is used for sanding floors made of solid boards, preparing the floor for tinting or tinting, interlayer polishing for varnishing, and for applying oil. Typically, such equipment is purchased for professional activity construction and repair companies. Imported PSMs are capable of demonstrating filigree work in the process.
• Boot - additional tool for sanding hard-to-reach areas. The boot-shaped attachment allows you to cycle wooden surface in corners, under radiators, along the edges around the perimeter. The unification of such machines allows the use of parts different manufacturers and change abrasive attachments. The boots are equipped with bags for collecting dust and waste. Such machines are produced both in the territory of the former USSR and in Germany.
• An industrial dust collector is a heavy-duty piece of equipment that works like a vacuum cleaner. The surface after scraping is covered with a layer of dust that must be removed industrial machines, otherwise varnishing will become impossible. A layer of varnish or other tinting agent will not be able to spread evenly over untreated wood.

List of additional tools:

• scissors for cutting emery cloth and wrenches for fixing abrasive materials on the drum;
• sandpaper (used as a consumable material. Depending on the stage of sanding, you will need a cloth of varying degrees of grain size - from 60 to 120.);
• putty (selected according to a color close to wood, or it can be made from a liquid component and sawdust the smallest fraction, scraping waste.);
• varnish (oil) at the rate of 5 kg per ten square meters. We recommend paying attention to Fobro, Resident, LOBA, Flow and other manufacturers;
• rollers and brushes for uniform coating of the surface with varnish (oil);
• spatulas - preferably rubber, for covering the floor with putty;

The amount of consumables is calculated depending on the size of the room. Experts recommend making a reserve of about 10% of the calculated value.

Parquet sanding steps:

It is quite difficult to sand old parquet by hand, but with the use of modern equipment this is a completely doable task. Even if you are going to resort to the help of professionals, understanding the order of work will allow you to control the process of their implementation more efficiently.

Preparation for sanding

First you need to assess the scope of work and, most importantly, its feasibility. After all, if the parquet can be characterized by the criteria indicated at the beginning of the article, then its renewal can only be done if it is completely replaced.

On preparatory stage The room is cleared of furniture and baseboards. Work is being carried out to strengthen the dies, eliminate squeaks, and replace individual components. The floor should be checked for any protruding nails or fasteners. Protruding elements should be recessed into the surface by 2-3 millimeters. The floor is vacuumed before major work.

Equipment selection

Depending on the area of ​​the room and the depth of grinding, a grinding machine is selected. Please note that the weight of the equipment will be at least 70 kg. For work you need: special suit, earplugs and respirator.

Parquet scraping

Produced at behind closed doors And open windows. Abrasive paper is placed on the drum part, taking into account what type of paper is needed:

• No. 16 – cleans the floor from paint or varnish;
• No. 24-40 – for removing paint and surface wood;
• No. 60 – for deep grinding.

Let's describe other important points:

• The directions for grinding are from the far right corner to the lower left, and crosswise; further manipulations are carried out in a spiral from the center.
• Attention! Manipulations with the sander should only be carried out along the grain of the wood. Exceptions can only be made for short-term rotations of the device.
• Work should begin from the far wall, moving towards the most accessible areas. From dust collectors, waste can be transferred to a polyethylene bag.
• Attention! The PShM can only be raised and lowered when it is turned on, otherwise there will be a height difference on the floor.
• It is important to maintain uniform pressure on the surface so that the layer removed from the parquet is the same over the entire area. As the abrasive wears out, it should be removed and a fresh blade installed.
• After 1 sanding, you need to use a “boot” and a 40-60 emery cloth to polish nooks and crannies and unsanded “spots”.
• Sanding work is carried out until the floor surface is in perfect condition until it becomes uniform in level and color.
• The final fine work is performed using a surface grinder - 3-4 times -, in during which unevenness, potholes and scratched areas are eliminated with abrasive from No. 60 to 100.
• Cycled parquet is vacuumed industrially. Then treat the cracks with putty using a rubber spatula, if necessary.
• The last step in the main work will be sanding over the putty using #100 sandpaper until perfectly smooth.
• The final treatment of the floor, which is once again cleared of dust and dirt after sanding, is carried out using oil or varnish, applied in 3-4 layers with a drying period of 4 hours after each application. Another round of sanding may be needed after the first coat.

You can watch the whole process in this video:

Having learned useful information and having received comprehensive instructions regarding correct execution polishing a portrait, you can perform this work without resorting to the services of construction and repair organizations. This will reduce your costs and allow you to sand your floor in a cost-effective manner.

To bring your parquet flooring into proper shape, you cannot do without such work as high-quality floor sanding. The work is quite complex, and therefore you should use the recommendations below.

If you notice that the flooring has changed its original appearance, you need to sand the parquet. Unfortunately, there are several cases when even this work will not be able to return your floor to its former beauty - you will have to lay a new covering.

When sanding won't help:

• the material has dried out so much that the gaps between the parquet flooring are about 0.5 cm;
• due to wetness, the parquet swelled greatly;
• any area in the room has become too dry (near the threshold);
• if there are visible potholes and too large irregularities;
• wood often gets wet due to fumes (in in this case you will have to completely remove the floor, lay down waterproofing and re-install);
• the parquet was attacked by grinder beetles;
• Rot or fungus began to appear in the room.
  

All these problems are most often caused by either improper installation of parquet boards, or the use of poor (not dried) material. In other cases, it will be enough that you carry out high-quality grinding to restore appearance.

A non-specialist can carry out grinding if all the rules are followed, but a professional, of course, will cope with this work much faster. But if you have this moment There is no financial opportunity to pay for the services of masters; you can carry out all the work yourself. The main thing is to follow all the rules and strictly follow the instructions. First of all, you need to purchase or rent all the necessary equipment and tools:

It is very important to prepare the room itself in advance. So, remove all furniture and debris from it, clean the covering from screws or nails. If there are dies that are loose due to poor fastening, you need to fix them well, for which it is best to use bitumen mastic or glue. Of course, you need to remove all the baseboards around the perimeter of the room.

Like any flooring work, floor sanding begins with preparing the existing flooring. If scraping is to be done, you need to thoroughly clean the floor from dirt so that nothing interferes with the work, for which the floor needs to be vacuumed and washed. After this, you can begin the sanding itself.

How to sand parquet with your own hands - step-by-step diagram

Step 1: First round with the sander - sanding

Work begins with refueling grinding machine with sandpaper No. 40. We start the engine and make one circle around the perimeter of the room along the walls, then another circle along the diagonal of the room. Keep in mind that the width of the grinder drum is 20 cm, and therefore each new pass must be shifted by 10 cm. Remember that the machine must be moved along the grain of the wood, and only when turning is it allowed to move across. If we are dealing with artistic parquet, then the equipment moves in a circle.

Important! During processing, you need to raise and lower the grinder only while moving, otherwise dents may appear on the floor.

Step 2: Treating corners and hard-to-reach places

Usually, after initial treatment, varnish stains remain near pipes, in corners and in other places that are difficult for equipment to reach. In this case, you can’t do without a special “boot” - an angle grinder. When working in corners, you may need sandpaper No. 40 or No. 60. Stains of old varnish should be removed in a circular motion, moving from the corners to the middle of the room. The primary scraping is continued until the floor is completely level.

Step 3: Initial sanding of the parquet

To complete this step, you will need a surface grinder, preferably equipped with three discs. With its help, you can remove existing scratches and possible burrs that formed after the procedure was carried out. The sandpaper is applied to the discs in the following sequence: first goes No. 40, then No. 60, No. 80 and finally No. 100. With this equipment, the surface is processed literally three to four times, and each time a different sandpaper is used. Sanding is carried out until the floor surface is smooth - to check this, simply run your hand across the floor.

Step 4: Putty cracks and gaps

Before starting to fill the cracks, the parquet is thoroughly vacuumed and washed to remove all dust and small particles of wood. For putty it is advisable to use ready-made mixture to match the color of the parquet. The entire surface of the coating is puttied using a spatula, and the solution must be distributed evenly so that it fills both the cracks between the parquet strips and the cracks on the floor surface. When the mixture has absorbed a little (it will be soft, but no longer stick to your hands), it is necessary to imitate the joints as quickly as possible. To do this, you need to use an awl, and curved joints are usually imitated using the edge of a ruler.

Step 5: Finish sanding

To remove excess putty from the floor surface, the coating must be processed again with a surface grinder with sandpaper No. 100. However, this work should be carried out only after the putty solution has completely dried. Processing should be carried out exactly until the coating becomes perfectly smooth and shiny.

Step 6: Finish Varnish

Before applying varnish to the parquet, the floor is thoroughly vacuumed and washed to remove any small particles of dirt. Otherwise, when the varnish dries, circles of dust will be very noticeable under it. You shouldn’t relax at this stage, because if you make even one mistake, the sanding and puttying will have to be done again. The varnish is applied in at least 3 layers, each of which dries for about 5 hours. Your skill is very important here.

The coating must be applied very quickly, spreading it over the floor surface, since the varnish begins to dry in literally 10 minutes. After treating the floor with the first layer of varnish, wait until it dries and go over the floor with a sander again, removing any wood wax that has appeared. Best for exercise this stage use sandpaper number 100 or 120. Vacuum the coating again and apply subsequent layers of varnish.

Finally, I would like to make a few important remarks. We must not forget that grinders operate very loudly, and therefore you can only work with them during the day, and only with headphones, so as not to go deaf. Check the wiring too - if it is too old and does not meet the demands of the grinding equipment, it is better to use a powerful stabilizer. Now, having learned how to sand parquet and what materials you will need for this, you can begin to carry out the work. Remember - there is no need to rush here, so as not to redo the same thing twice!

Wooden parquet is a reliable and durable floor covering. Sanding parquet with your own hands will come to the rescue if the surface has lost its attractiveness.

And this can happen even with careful care, let alone those areas of the flooring on which people walk in street shoes or move furniture.

When should you not sand parquet?

Please note: in some cases, floor covering elements are so damaged that sanding them is pointless. This will not return the floor to normal condition. Such serious damage includes the following cases:

1. The wood had dried out too much, causing gaps of 5 mm or more to appear between the planks.
2. The surface has swollen under the influence of moisture.
3. The most worn area has worn down to the point where the top level of the worn strips is 5 mm or less from the connecting tongue.
4. Potholes and uneven surfaces are too deep.
5. Wood is exposed to moisture from below due to evaporation.
6. The tree is damaged by a borer beetle.
7. The material is affected by mold or rot has appeared in it.

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What will you need for the job?

There are 2 grinding methods: machine and manual. In the first case, more material resources will be required, and in the second, time and effort. Manual grinding is performed using a hand cycle. In addition, you can attach sandpaper onto the sole of the shoe and sand the surface with your feet. These methods are quite labor-intensive.

To easily level the surface, you will need a grinding machine. There are several types of such equipment, each of which is designed for a specific stage of work:

1. A drum sander is used for deep sanding the surface of a wooden floor.
2. Surface grinders are designed for fine sanding of parquet. The equipment can be single-disk or three-disk. Using such a machine you can make the surface ideal, but its cost is very high.
3. To process hard-to-reach areas, for example, under radiators, a “boot” with an abrasive wheel is used.

In addition to a sanding machine, you will need an industrial vacuum cleaner to remove dust and sanding scissors. The following materials are required:

• putty;
• sandpaper;
• oil or varnish;
• brushes and rollers;
• rubber spatula.

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Step-by-step execution of work

The room must be cleared of furniture, the baseboards must be removed and checked for any torn elements. If torn strips are found, they must be glued in place. At this stage, necessary for parquet renovation work. If the heads of screws or nails rise above the surface, they need to be recessed by 2-3 mm. Next, the floor is washed and vacuumed. This concludes the preparation and moves on to the main work.

Coarse sandpaper is loaded onto the grinder drum. Depending on the nature of the parquet finish, its size is selected:

• for removing varnish or drying oil – No. 16;
• for removing the top layer of wood and removing paint – No. 24-40;
• universal option for any work – No. 60.

First, the machine is used to walk diagonally across the room from one corner to another. After this, they move to one of the walls and drive the machine along the wall, and then parallel to it. With each subsequent pass you need to move 10 cm.

It is very important to follow the correct direction of movement. Sanding should be done along the wood grain. Only at a turn is a short-term crossing allowed. For artistic parquet with a spiral pattern, you also need to move spirally from the edge to the center.

To prevent depressions from forming on the surface, it is necessary to lift and lower the machine in motion. At the first stage of work, hard-to-reach places are skipped. It is necessary to adjust the pressure of the drum on the floor. For this purpose, the machine has a special screw.

To remove varnish stains in hard-to-reach places and in the center, use a “boot”. If the poorly processed piece is located in the center, then the machine is moved from the edge of the spot to its middle in a circular motion. Near the edges and in the corners, movements are made from the edge to the wall and back to remove the top layer of the surface.

Next, fine grinding is performed with a surface grinder. As a result of this treatment, there should not be even the slightest defects left on the surface: scratches, burrs, etc. The treatment is carried out once with sandpapers No. 40, 60, 80 and 100. Once means forward and reverse passes.

Then the parquet is puttied. The floor is thoroughly vacuumed to remove dust from crevices. Best used for putty special composition, imitating wood in color. Putty is performed over the entire surface using a special rubber spatula. The composition must be distributed evenly to fill all the cracks between the individual parquet elements and on their surface.

When the putty begins to dry out and is not sticky, but has not yet begun to harden, it is necessary to make an imitation of joints. This work must be done very quickly. For this, a metal ruler and an awl are used. If you hold the ruler with pressure, you can make curved joints.

Excess putty is removed by finishing sanding. This is done only after the composition has completely dried. Parquet sanding is carried out using a surface sander with #100 sandpaper. The drum pressure should be reduced, the direction of movement should be along the wood fibers. Grinding is carried out until the surface is perfectly smooth.