How to repair a brick basement at home. We are repairing the basement and blind area in a country house. Construction of a new blind area

A chipping (peeling) base, tiles falling off a porch, cracks in a concrete blind area, these are just some examples of the destruction of so-called “basement structures.” There is only one reason for this - a combination of moisture and insufficient frost resistance. Read about why this happens and how to deal with it in this article.

Water is the basis of most destructive processes

Rain, melted snow and groundwater have a significant impact on the condition building structures and their finishes. Moreover, the ability of water to dissolve substances and also cause corrosion of metal does not play a role here significant role. Its main feature is in this case– expansion upon freezing. A slight increase in the volume of a drop of water during its transformation into ice can exert significant pressure on surrounding structures.

This nuance is especially important for tiling porches. Very often you can see brickwork made of clay (red) brick, tiled on top. Since tile adhesive is applied with a comb, and modern red brick has a ribbed surface at the ends, the presence of cracks and pores under the tiles is inevitable. The slightest mistake when grouting joints and water will get inside. After the first winter, the tiles will peel off. This can be avoided by preliminary plastering on a metal mesh of all surfaces of the porch, followed by very careful grouting of the joints. In this case, it is better to lay the tiles either on a continuous layer of glue, or using the finest comb.

An example of tiles peeling off from a porch. The photo clearly shows the voids between inner surface tiles, mortar and porch body.

The frost resistance grade of red brick is insufficient. This type of destruction can be avoided by preliminary plastering with a reinforcing mesh.

Frost resistance

We previously touched on the issue of frost resistance. The number of freeze-thaw cycles of a sample during which it does not lose its properties determines the frost resistance grade. Hence the simple conclusion is that basement structures often cannot withstand a sufficient number of freezing and thawing cycles.

Excess water in mortar

Almost all materials that make up plinth structures require the preparation of a mixture with water. Whether it's concrete, cement-sand mortar or tile adhesive, you can't do without water. The process of gaining strength of dry binders (cement, gypsum) when mixing with water cannot be characterized by the verb “drying”. The combination of water and clinker (binder) forms chemical reaction, as a result of which the growth of microcrystals begins. By merging with each other, they form a stone-like body from powder and liquid. Obviously, such a reaction requires a certain amount of water.

If there is a deficiency, full strength will not be achieved, and its excess will evaporate. In the latter case, voids (essentially micropores) form in place of the evaporated water. In the autumn-spring period, water enters them, which, upon subsequent freezing, initially turns the micropores into microcracks, and then with each subsequent freeze-thaw cycle, cracks grow in the body of the structure.

Appearance example reinforced concrete structure subjected to freeze-thaw cycles.

The issue of accurate dosing of water during the preparation of the mixture is not as simple as it seems. The exact quantity can only be measured for ready-made building mixtures. Not only do they come with instructions indicating the required amount of water, but they are also kept dry. However, greatest distribution received concrete and cement-sand mortar. They contain sand, the moisture content of which is unknown at the time of preparation of the mixture, but the required amount of water added to the composition greatly depends on it.

But even by accurately measuring the moisture content of the sand, it is unlikely that it will be possible to prepare an ideal mixture - the resulting mobility and consistency of the solution (convenient for working with it) with an optimal water-cement ratio may turn out to be unacceptable for this type of work. Almost always it will be the same for performing a screed. It is also inconvenient to plaster with a composition that is too thick. However, you should refrain from adding water! Improving the plasticity of the solution should be achieved by introducing special plasticizer additives. They reduce friction forces between fractions of the composition and without excess water will allow you to perform the required type of work efficiently.

Strength grade, iron, fiber fiber

The notorious frost resistance brand is closely related to the strength brand. Therefore, for basement structures, solutions of a sufficiently high grade should be used. We discussed the determination of the required indicators for concrete earlier. For cement-sand mortars You should focus on the table of correspondence between the strength class of concrete and the brand. That is, having determined the required class of concrete, we look at what strength grade for the mortar corresponds to it and take it as a guide.

Base structures are regularly subjected to freeze-thaw cycles, so underestimating the strength/frost resistance grade will inevitably lead to partial destruction over time. Particularly high demands in this regard are placed on the surface layer; it is most vulnerable due to direct contact with water. To strengthen it, you can use the ironing method (it can be dry or wet).

Its essence is to grout the surface to be strengthened with dry cement (or a special composition according to the manufacturer’s instructions). The surface is first slightly wetted, then a shell layer of pure cement is applied with a regular plaster float. It not only strengthens the surface, but also absorbs possible excess water. If there was not enough water for the final cake, the structure itself will “get” it over time by absorbing moisture from the air/soil during the first rain or intentional wetting from a hose. The latter, by the way, is extremely undesirable to do with strong pressure in the first week of the concrete/mortar’s life. Weakly strengthened upper layer may be damaged by splashing water. Loss of moisture during strength development should be prevented by covering the laid composition with a film, and often cracks in the screed that appear for the first time are just a consequence of shrinkage due to excess water. If moistening is necessary, spray nozzles should be used.

Positive results are obtained by introducing fiber into the mixture. It provides dispersed micro reinforcement, increasing resistance to cracking.

Insulation, impregnation

Another method of combating the destruction of “basement structures” is insulation. Moreover, it can be not only “hydro”, but also “heat”. By eliminating any of the factors in the water-freezing chain, structures can be protected.

An excellent example of this approach is the insulation of the base with extruded polystyrene foam. This material not only insulates well, but is also hydrophobic (does not absorb moisture).

Another method of protecting basement structures is impregnation. special compounds penetrating action (for example, "Penetron"). The essence of their action is to fill the pores in the structure and form a waterproofing film on the surface.

High-quality finishing of the basement of the house with tiles also insulates it from the effects of water.

The base is outer part foundation, base façade walls. If it is cracked due to shrinkage or simply worn out over time, it needs to be repaired. Repairing the basement cannot be put off for a long time; this can lead to an emergency.

Basement repair work

Reasons why the base collapses:

The repair has several goals:

• restoration of bearing capacity, strengthening the strength of the foundation itself and the entire house;
• insulation of the lower part of the facade and basement floor from the outside;
• waterproofing and mechanical protection;
• restoration of aesthetic appearance.

There are three main types of repairs: current, major and cosmetic.

The current one involves updating the cladding, heat and waterproofing layers. Because the basement part is located in the most aggressive conditions (takes on maximum loads, is exposed to both atmospheric and soil factors), then wear occurs faster than other parts of the cottage. It is necessary to periodically diagnose the condition, update damaged layers, and protect internal space basement floor and the inside of the foundation from adverse influences.

A major repair of the basement is necessary when the structure of the base itself is damaged: large cracks, chips have appeared, large pieces have crumbled, and the corners of the house have sagged unevenly. In this case, it is better if the repair work is carried out professional company: firstly, they have the appropriate qualifications and equipment, and secondly, they are obliged to correct deficiencies and work defects free of charge if they appear.

Cosmetic repairs involve improving the appearance of the base: restoring paint, plaster or other finishing, replacing one cladding with another.

Do-it-yourself basement repair at home

Work should be carried out in dry weather, in summer or spring, but not in the heat. Rain and low/excessive high temperatures impair the adhesion of the mortar, moisture negates efforts at waterproofing and insulation. First you need to assess the condition of the blind area: if it is badly broken, it will be dismantled and upon completion repair work fill in a new one.

Procedure for repairing the base yourself:

1. Knock down the old plaster to the base, remove worn thermal insulation and waterproofing materials.
2. Thoroughly clean the base from dirt, mildew, and mold.
3. Treat with an antiseptic.
4. Large cracks before plastering should be filled with crushed stone or broken bricks.
5. Secure the reinforcement with dowels metal mesh.
6. Prime the surface along with the mesh.
7. Mix the concrete and treat the surface. Repair mother-in-law's cracks and chips.
8. Apply and completely cover the mesh. Dry the base for a month until the concrete has completely set.
9. Lay down waterproofing material and insulation.
10. Close facing material-, corrugated sheeting, etc.
11. Fill the blind area: a layer of concrete 5-8 cm. A small sand and gravel cushion should be poured under the concrete and a layer of roofing material should be laid. It is recommended to add small crushed stone to the solution. The blind area is reinforced with metal mesh and poured with a slope from the wall outward.

Repair of the basement of a brick house

Using the method described above, you can perform the current and/or redecorating. If, due to uneven shrinkage or movement, progressive cracks appear in the base, the base must be strengthened. Otherwise, the destruction will appear again in the near future. Let's consider reinforcement using the example of a brick building.

The first stage is diagnostics: paper or gypsum beacons to identify progressive damage. It is advisable to put a date on the beacons. After a few days, the beacons are checked and identified those areas that need to be strengthened.

Procedure:

1. Dig a recess under the crack to the depth of the bottom layer of the cushion with a wall slope of at least 35 degrees from the base.
2. Install a steel or asbestos pipe into the hole.
3. Pour liquid into the pipe building mixture. Some of it will be used to saturate the nearest soil, this is normal. Top up within 2-3 hours: when the soil is saturated, the pipe will fill to the top.
4. Reinstall the beacons. Monitor for several days to see if the subsidence has stopped. If not, repeat the same procedures again.

If the damage is large-scale, strengthen the entire base around the perimeter:

1. Dig a trench around the house to the depth of the foundation.
2. Compact the bottom and fill it up. Compact by pouring water.
3. Clear the foundation of soil, old plaster etc.
4. Prime the wall.
5. Drill holes for the anchors with a hammer drill.
6. Insert the anchors so that they go right through the wall and protrude outwards from it: they will connect the old foundation to the new reinforcement belt.
7. The new frame is placed 10 centimeters from the base. It is made from 1.2 cm rods.
8. Install formwork from boards or fiberboard. The boards are removed after pouring; the DSP can be left.
9. Fill the ditch in one go (layer-by-layer filling will reduce the strength of the new tape).
10. Compact with a vibrating rammer. Drive the air out of the concrete by piercing it with a bayonet shovel.
11. After a week, you can remove and fill the ditch with soil.

When it's time to repair the basement country house, many of us begin to really panic. But one should not exaggerate, because such repairs, and even subsequent finishing, can always be done independently.

Basement repair is very necessary, because this is precisely the element of the house structure that protects the foundation from moisture and destruction. If there is no base or it is in a destroyed state, the foundation and Bottom part the masonry will begin to collapse, which will affect not only the humidity inside the house, but also the quality of the walls, floors, and so on. In this case, cracks and serious chips, rotting of logs, and gradual destruction of walls are possible.

Therefore, repairing the basement of a private house is very important, and it is advisable to produce it exactly at the moment when its first defects were noticed. But if the base has been in unusable condition for several years, this is also not a problem, because we can restore it in a few days.

It is most correct to choose warm and dry time year, preferably without serious heat. This may be the middle of summer, depending on the region, but we suggest that you repair the basement in early spring, as soon as it dries out after the snow in the fresh wind and rising temperatures sunlight. For example, you can start the process in the middle or end of May, so that it is not too hot for you to work, and the temperature for finishing is acceptable.

It is simply impossible to carry out repairs in cold or rain, as well as in severe heat, because a stable temperature is necessary for high-quality adhesion of the solution to the base materials and its uniform drying.

Where to start repairing the basement

You will need to prepare the repair site - beat the peeling parts well, try to remove debris, but do not go deeper, hammering further and further. After this, study the blind area, as it plays a role in protecting the foundation and appearance buildings play a significant role.

If the blind area is in order, it can be redecorated, but if there is practically no blind area, it will be necessary to pour a new one.

Pouring the blind area

The blind area can rise above ground level by 4-7 cm, but should go approximately 20-25 cm deep. Determine the width yourself, dig a place to fill the blind area and clean the foundation of the house. It is important to remember here that the blind area should have a slope of several degrees from the house so that the water does not stagnate under the house itself.

When the place is ready, you should tie it to the foundation as much as possible, nail reinforcement to it, and weld the mesh to it. You shouldn’t be particularly zealous, but the base of the blind area must be done with high quality.

When the reinforcement for pouring is ready, it is necessary to fill in the gravel bed, install the formwork at the height of the blind area, and fill everything on top with cement mortar. But before this stage, you can also perform waterproofing, which will be very appropriate. This can be standard waterproofing of the basement of the house, or classic, clay, when a layer of clay 15 cm wide is laid along the entire height of the blind area around the house and is well compacted.

If you want to get a stronger blind area, lay several layers of fine mesh, and also make it based on a solution with crushed stone.

Repairing the basement of a country house

The base is upholstered and cleaned, the blind area is filled and fits tightly to it - all that remains is to move on to our main task.

A fine reinforcing metal mesh should be placed around the entire perimeter of the base. It is advisable to give it a shape, since the mesh will be held in place by a layer of solution. That is, the mesh can be filled more evenly vertically by adjusting its position with dowels.

The next stage is primer. You can pass the primer directly through the mesh so that the composition gets on both it and the surface itself. If a primer is not required, simply moisten the surfaces well before applying the solution.

After this, apply a layer of thinner solution onto the mesh well so that the plastering mixture penetrates through the mesh and fills all the cavities along the base. To do this, you should not accelerate; on the contrary, you must act very carefully, even pressing the solution inside the mesh, clogging all the cavities and recesses with it. Thus, finishing occurs along the entire perimeter, with a layer through which the mesh itself will only be visible.

It is advisable to let the layer dry a little, and then you can begin final plastering. You can put another layer here cement mortar, or work with decorative plaster, original stone and brick masonry.

Depending on your choice, there may be very different variants further processes.

Finishing the basement of a house after renovation

Repair of a brick base or panel house completed, and now we need to tidy up its appearance. The blind area is already there, but it also requires a base to match, which we will now design.

Inexpensive plinth finishing

The base is ready, and now it is necessary to protect it from harmful effects atmospheric phenomena. This can be done with bitumen or other special mixtures, but you can always use old-fashioned method.

You need to heat the resin over a fire in an old bucket and diesel fuel. Heat slowly, over low heat, being sure to protect yourself from possible injury. By stirring slowly, you can cook quality solution for coating, which was previously used everywhere. It is necessary to use hot resin with the consistency of jelly using a large round brush, evenly applying the mixture to the base in a thick layer.

Modern plinth finish

If you have the opportunity to spend more money, create more interesting view And effective protection from the influence of humidity, wind, frost and sun rays, use modern finishes. Often it's simple decorative plaster with protective properties or further painting, but often craftsmen do stone plinth or base from artificial stone, which is in no way inferior natural finish.

For styling finishing material you will need to choose the right adhesive mixture and study the instructions for using the materials, because many of them will require a primer, mesh, and maybe the preparation of a special layer.

At every stage of repair and finishing of the basement of a country house It is worth remembering that this is often a very important structure, on which the durability of the building largely depends.

How to quickly repair the basement of a house (video)

The repair of the base has been completed, and now we can only be more careful about protecting the foundation from moisture, for example, simply smearing the cracks with resin, having previously sealed them with special mixtures, or laying the material used for finishing in place of the defects.

To repair the base yourself, you do not need to have any special skills. This construction procedure is not very complicated and can be done if you know some of the nuances of this matter.

In simple terms, the base is the distance from the ground to the walls of the house. It can be big ( ground floor), or consist of a foundation protruding above the ground to a certain height. When the basement of the house is deformed, the walls of the room also begin to collapse.

The main reasons for the destruction of the basement of a house

If cracks have appeared on the base of your house or fungus has formed, this indicates that work was carried out incorrectly during the construction of the building and that the necessary design standards were not observed.

The main reasons for the destruction of the basement of a house are:

1. Shrinkage of the building. This process mainly depends on the soil on which the building is located and the weight of the building. A very pronounced shrinkage process can occur in a brick apartment building.
2. Groundwater flow. If, when designing, you do not take into account the depth of groundwater flow and do not complete all necessary measures waterproofing, then the foundation of the house is washed away. If you decide to make the foundation yourself, then be sure to contact professionals so that they can tell you at what depth the groundwater flows.
3. Poor quality blind area. Failure to comply with the blind area manufacturing technology leads to erosion of the foundation.
4. Violation of design standards. Very often, builders forget about insulating the foundation and waterproofing it; this mistake is usually made when repairs are done not by professional teams, but with their own hands. Such oversights lead to the formation of fungus and freezing of building structures, which subsequently leads to the destruction of the base.

How to repair a basement with your own hands?

The integrity of the base is very important characteristic for any house (one-story or multi-story, brick or wooden), since the base protects the foundation from the aggressive influence of external natural factors. Watch the video on how to strengthen the base with your own hands.

To repair the base yourself, you must adhere to the following sequence:

The slope of the blind area in the direction opposite to the house must be at least 2% so that the water drains and does not stagnate.

• When the reconstruction work is completed, install a fine reinforcing mesh over the entire area of ​​the base of the house. It must exactly follow the structure of the foundation and fit tightly to it. To fix it, use dowels and nails, position the mesh vertically.
• Cover the plinth and mesh with primer, then wait for it to dry completely.
• Apply a layer of liquid cement mortar to the plinth and mesh. Do this in such a way that after the work done, the outlines of the grid cells are visible. Level the applied layer using a grater. Be sure to wait until this layer is completely dry.
• Plaster the basement of the house.

How to protect the basement of a house from destruction?

Having completed all the above steps, you want to protect the foundation and basement of the house from destruction. You can do this in several ways:

• A budget option, made with your own hands. It has been used for several decades. It consists in applying resin to the foundation of the house from the outside to protect it from external factors. This mixture is prepared as follows: diesel fuel is mixed with resin and slowly heated over a fire until a homogeneous mixture similar to jelly is formed. At the same time, you need to make sure that it does not get on your skin and you do not get burned. When this solution hardens, it forms protective film, which prevents moisture from entering the foundation.
• Modern option. This method of protecting the foundations of a house is more expensive, but it provides better preservation of building structures. This method involves lining the base decorative tiles or a stone. Using this method you just need to choose the right mixture for gluing the required material.

It is necessary to cover the base in all types of buildings, especially those built from brick material.

When one day you notice some damage to the foundation, you urgently need to begin work to repair and strengthen it.

To do this, you need to determine necessary materials, sequence of work and its volume.

From the owner brick house Basement repair poses the following tasks:

• how to make it more durable bearing capacity foundation;
• how to prevent various deformations of the soil next to it later.

First of all, take control of the cracks that have appeared not only in the base, but also in the foundation of the building. Place several markers across them, for example, with inside the bases are beacons made of alabaster or gypsum, the outer ones are made of CPS (cement-sand mixture).

Observe them for about 20 days. If the markers are intact, simply seal the cracks. In the same case when they collapsed, it is necessary to understand the reasons for their appearance.

Only then can measures be taken that relate to repair work to stop future destruction. You can do the work yourself or invite builders with the necessary equipment.

If you notice that there are distortions in the door and window openings or soil deformation has appeared around the perimeter, you need to pay attention to this, since these processes indicate a dangerous condition of the foundation.

When the foundation is hidden from visual inspection, and it is difficult to determine the reasons for the increase in cracks, it is necessary to drill control holes. They will help you understand the condition of the base of a brick house and find out the reasons for the deformation.

They can be divided into “man-made”, which appeared due to human actions, or natural.

Also, deformations and cracks may occur due to:

• incorrect choice of location for construction, for example, groundwater levels were not taken into account;
• poor design - they forgot about drainage, did not install blind areas, did not protect the base from moisture;
• problems that arose during laying, for example, those associated with low-quality building materials;
• trees planted close to the house with a powerful root system;
• unaccounted vibration power internal and external influences during the operation of the house;
• artificial waterlogging of the soil around the perimeter of the building.

Advice: use only for building a house building brick, never use hollow bricks or silicate bricks for the foundation.
It is recommended to use solid ceramic for this purpose.

Materials

The purpose of repairing the basement is to install a fence outside the underground space. It must be strong and stable enough to withstand groundwater atmospheric precipitation. Therefore, it is so necessary to choose the right building materials.

Natural:

• sandstone;
• shell rock;
• limestone;
• basalt;
• granite;
• silicate or red brick.

You can also use prefabricated or monolithic concrete, as well as cement-based solutions with:

• sand;
• sand and lime;
• sand and clay.

For the manufacture of concrete mortar prepare cement, gravel or crushed stone, sand and water (1:3:5:1). Their number depends on the volume of work.

There is also a direct dependence of the thickness of the base on the material:

• brick – 120 mm;
• rubble stone – 200 mm;
• reinforced concrete – 100-120 mm.

Strengthening the foundation

The instructions for repairing the base resemble the creation of an external reinforcing foundation.

1. Start work with a control pit, when it is necessary to dig a trench along the perimeter of the old foundation to its base.

Tip: to improve the quality and safety of the process, open the old base and install a new one in small areas, approximately 1.5 m in increments of up to 4 m, while insuring the walls with wooden struts.

1. Connect it to the reinforcement from the base by welding or tying wire. Frame cell – 200x200x200 mm.
2. Install formwork, such as laminated plywood, in the trench.
3. Fill the frame with concrete.

Advice: if you don’t have time to do the work simultaneously along the entire perimeter of the foundation, do it in parts, i.e. While the concrete hardens in one area, assemble the reinforcement cage in another.

Screw piles for repair

The cost of such work will be significant, so they are very rarely used for old foundations.