How to repair speakers at home. Do-it-yourself speaker repair using available materials. Manufacturing of winding machine

Even the highest quality speakers are not immune to breakdowns. They can be caused by the most for various reasons. If the speaker suddenly stops making sound, and during diagnostics of the speaker system it becomes clear that the reason for this is some kind of internal failure of the speaker, it is not at all necessary to contact service center and even more so go buy new equipment.

Nowadays, it is very easy to repair a speaker - all spare parts are freely available, all you have to do is find it necessary tools and carefully study the speaker repair technology. To ensure everything works out exactly, you can watch the corresponding video and simply follow the proposed instructions step by step.

If you have difficulty disassembling the speakers, you can read.

Types of speaker malfunctions

The main part of any speaker is a dynamic emitter, which converts the electrical signal into sound waves. It also breaks down most often. What are the most common speaker problems?

All emitter failures are usually associated with three main reasons:

• improper operation;
• factory defects - the use of low-quality parts or errors when assembling the device;
• natural wear and tear of acoustic equipment.

It is very simple to attribute a breakdown to one of the reasons - in the event of a defect in production, the speakers, as a rule, break within a short time after purchase; natural wear, on the contrary, takes a very long time long time- at correct use even cheap, high-quality speakers can last at least ten years. Thus, a sudden breakdown most often refers to errors when working with speakers.

Incorrect operation

The main cause of breakdowns during the operation of speakers is failure to comply with the permissible power limit of the signal supplied to the emitter. Most often this is due to the fact that the user makes a mistake when determining the power of the speaker and amplifier. This is very easy to do, since power can be calculated using several methods. The values ​​of effective, sinusoidal and amplitude powers can differ dramatically from each other - the excess when taking into account the wrong type of power can exceed 200%. Of course, the column burns out the first time it is plugged into the network.

Overloading of dynamic emitters is quite common in speaker systems ah, whose speakers are equipped with multiple speakers. In such a speaker, the power of the electrical signal may be incorrectly distributed between the tweeter, midrange speaker and subwoofer. As a rule, the victim of such a problem is the tweeter, which requires significantly less power than its counterparts. The power of the tweeter is usually no more than 1/10 of the total power of the speaker. If a user tries to apply more current to the tweeter by over-boosting the ultra-high frequencies using an equalizer, the fragile high-frequency driver may break instantly.

In addition to electrical problems, there may also be mechanical damage any speaker element. It is usually protected by a fabric or metal decorative grille, but it is nevertheless quite easy to damage the emitter. The cap that protects the device from dust, the diffuser suspension and the membrane itself may be damaged - thin film, often made of paper, which is extremely easy to tear or pierce. The consequences of these damages can be very serious: the alignment is disrupted, which causes the coil or sleeve to break, making sound reproduction physically impossible. The same result is caused by the displacement of the core from the center of the speaker - in this case, the most important details devices get stuck in a magnetic trap.

Such breakdowns are usually caused by very careless handling of the speakers - most often by dropping the device. In this case, they can be damaged as fragile portable speakers not the most durable materials, and massive floor-standing speakers with high power. Although the latter, of course, are better protected from mechanical damage.

Manufacturing defects

All parts of the speaker are usually glued together, and improper gluing can cause the stationary parts to move out of their intended places. Even the diffuser may come off, as a result of which it will be impossible to vibrate and, accordingly, receive sound waves. Poor fastening of moving parts and wires significantly reduces the life of the speaker, and natural wear occurs too quickly.

Natural wear and tear

From wear and tear correct assembly The most fragile parts of the device suffer the most - the suspension and flexible leads - that is, the diffuser holder and the wire that supplies the signal to the coil.

Diagnostics

It seems that it is very simple to distinguish mechanical damage from electrical damage - just remove the protective panel and inspect the speaker for damage. If everything is in order with the integrity of the parts, then the breakdown is related to electrical part. However, it is difficult to distinguish some types of breakdowns by ear and eye - for example, a malfunction of the flexible coil lead. In this case, most often the sound does not disappear completely - the speaker may make extraneous sounds and become silent from time to time.

To determine the breakdown of the flexible terminal, as well as coil malfunctions, an ohmmeter is used, connected to the speaker terminals with a static membrane. If the needle starts to twitch, that’s where the problem lies. To fix the damage, you will have to disassemble the speaker, separate the broken parts and install new ones - they can be bought at any radio equipment store.

Using a generator low frequencies and infrasound, it is possible to calculate the detached coil, part of its turns, as well as the diffuser that has moved away from the suspension. In this case, extraneous sounds will appear. They will be heard at a certain frequency when the damaged part of the speaker comes into resonance with the sound.

As for more serious breakdowns, they are much easier to calculate - you don’t even need special tools:

• lightly shake the speaker - if something rolls around inside, it means the coil has fallen off the sleeve;
• take a closer look at the diffuser - if it moves reluctantly, it means that the impact of the coil on it has decreased - probably due to the displacement of the coil, the sleeve is stuck between the magnets;
• if the membrane does not move, it is possible that the coil is stuck with the sleeve due to the displacement of the core.

In the last two cases, the repair consists of releasing the sleeve, then disassembling the device and eliminating the cause of the problem. It is impossible to disassemble the speaker while the sleeve is between the magnets - this can also damage the diffuser membrane.

Replacing flexible leads

Repair can be carried out in two situations - with free access to the terminals, in which case disassembly of the speaker is not required, and with closed device. In the first case, of course, the repair is much simpler. Due to the presence of magnets inside the speaker, it is advisable to use a tool that is not made of steel, if one is available, since magnetizing it can lead to damage to the membrane or cap.

The flexible lead is connected to the electromagnetic coil's own wiring. To separate these parts, you need to heat the gluing area with a soldering iron and carefully tear off the old pigtail from the coil. You must act carefully so as not to damage functional parts.

It is best to purchase a new terminal from a speaker parts supplier. But you can do it yourself - any stranded wire is used for this. copper wire with the same cross-section as the original part. Its twisting must be the same as that of the flexible terminal being replaced. All wires are glued together special glue and they tinker. Then the spare part must be glued to the coil terminal and securely fixed to inner surface diffuser

Disassembling the speaker to replace parts

The complexity of disassembly depends only on the type of glue used in the production of the emitter. If the structure was fastened using epoxy resin, disassembling the device can be very problematic. But if the glue used is dissolved with acetone or alcohol, you can safely proceed to repair work. It is advisable to use acetone, even if the glue is better dissolved by ethyl acetate - its toxicity is much lower, so the work will be safer for health.

Disassembly proceeds in the following order:

• The suspension comes off. This must be done carefully so as not to damage it. Acetone is carefully poured under the suspension using a pipette. When the glue begins to dissolve, a match or toothpick is inserted into the unstuck area as a support. Moving around the entire circumference, peel off the entire suspension in the same way.
• The centering washer comes off. This can be done either from the body side or from the diffuser side.

After removing these two parts, full access to the insides of the speaker will open. Then it will be possible to repair any of its parts: removing and replacing them is best, although you can try and replace, for example, winding the coil yourself. However, without experience in such work, the result is unlikely to be satisfactory.

Speaker repair: video

Music in the car is a pleasure and entertainment on the road, but there is one unpleasant moment. The speakers in the car are constantly exposed to dust and dirt, all sorts of debris flies in from the street, the speakers in the rear parcel shelf of hatchbacks especially suffer from this. Over time, so much debris accumulates in them that the diffuser begins to make a terrible grinding noise during operation.

There are a couple of car, three-way, coaxial speakers measuring 6x9" with the above symptoms. I’ll say right away that when working you need to use maximum caution, accuracy and patience, if this is not your thing, then it’s better not to even start.

In the preface, I would like to remind you a little theory about the design and operation of dynamic heads; this will make it easier for me to further explain the process in the text.

The basis of the dynamic head (speaker) is the basket, the frame on which everything rests. A diffuser is glued into the wide part of the basket through a suspension. The diffuser produces sound when it vibrates, and the suspension ensures its freedom of movement. The diffuser is usually dome shaped and can be made from pressed paper, polypropylene or even aluminum. The suspension is usually made of rubber; in low-power bass and midrange speakers, it is made of paper. At the constriction of the diffuser there is a coil that moves on a core (core) around the magnet. Permanent magnet increases EMF electromagnetic field, thereby increasing the movement of the diffuser. The coil on the core is centered with a washer creating the necessary uniform gap between the coil. The centering washer is also glued to the speaker basket; without it, the coil would touch the magnet or core. Wires are led from the coil to the diffuser and from it, through flexible “antennae”, to the contact pad for connection to audio equipment.

Crunching and noise in the operation of the speaker occurs due to debris trapped between the coil and the core during their operation (movement). Such garbage may contain metal particles and other magnetic dust, which is difficult to remove. in a simple way. In this case speaker repair starts with disassembling them. I would like to immediately make a reservation that the speakers by their design are not intended for disassembly and, accordingly, the manufacturers of these speakers do not provide for this in their design. But everything that has been assembled can be disassembled, you just need to put your head and hands in the right way.

Disassembling the speaker begins with unsoldering the current-carrying conductors from the diffuser to the terminal block. In our case, this is a multi-way car speaker on the core of which two more smaller ones are attached - midrange and high-frequency speakers. The conductors also need to be unsoldered from them, and the housing securing them to the core must be unscrewed with a screw passing through the core from the magnet side. In a regular speaker, there is a dust cap in this place of the diffuser and there is no need to remove it.

The next step in speaker repair there will be a separation of the diffuser from the basket. We will separate the diffuser along with the suspension, coil and centering washer. Plants and factories usually use glue similar to the domestic “moment”, so I dissolve it with acetone. We dial in regular medical syringe acetone and wet the suspension in the places where it is glued to the basket. It’s good if you can bend the suspension a little and work underneath it, closer to the glue. We do the same with the centering washer, but don’t pour a lot of acetone, you can peel off something you need.

It can take quite a long time before acetone takes effect, and you need to periodically re-wet it with acetone because it quickly erodes. When separating the diffuser, you do not need to pull on it, you can tear or deform the suspension and the diffuser itself, you can help with a flat screwdriver using it as a spatula. You need to act carefully, slowly, especially when working with sharp objects, otherwise you can easily damage the diffuser and all the work is a waste, and the speaker is a waste. If it does not come off, it is better to add acetone and wait. After separating the diffuser, we move on to the centering washer; it must be handled with the same care and done the same.

Having separated the diffuser from the basket, you can proceed to cleaning the hole around the core (core). To be honest, there are no special recipes here and cleaning a magnet from metal debris is not easy. The gap is very narrow and it is impossible to get there with any brushes. I was able to clean it using a metal paper clip (photo below) which became magnetized on its own and the metal debris stuck to it. You can try wooden or plastic stick, sometimes it turns out to blow air under high pressure. In general, we clean it as best we can, the main thing is that there is no debris left around the core. It is also necessary to clean the coil itself; a lot of debris also sticks to it. It must be handled no less carefully than other parts; it can be damaged. round shape and then you will have to look for a suitable round mandrel and straighten it, otherwise there will be even more noise from the speaker than before. By the way, in the photo below you can see how it was eaten aluminum frame coils are filled with debris during operation, it happens that the wire frays and a break occurs, in this case a new coil is wound, which will require even more time, concentration and action.

Upon completion of the cleaning, we can say that we have mastered speaker repair, but it remains to be assembled, and this also has its own nuances.

Assembly is done in the reverse order by gluing the elements into place, but you must not just glue them, but glue them evenly! To do this, you need to find an old, unnecessary X-ray or a piece of photographic film, and cut it to a size so that it, rolled into a tube, fits into the gap between the reel and the core (core). This film will help us center the coil and set an even gap. It is advisable to take the thickness of the film such that it fits tightly into the gap without backlash. We place the diffuser in the basket and center the coil with film, align and position it exactly on the basket. First of all, we glue the centering washer; we will glue regular glue"moment". We smear the gluing area and press it, actually do it as written in the instructions for the glue. It’s uncomfortable to press, so regular clothespins will help. We definitely need to wait for the glue to set, otherwise our centering may go wrong. As soon as the glue grabs the washer, glue the diffuser to the basket, but do not remove the film, let it remain until the glue dries completely. After gluing the diffuser, you can put the rim around the suspension in place, turn the speaker over, placing it on flat surface and press it with something heavy. Once the glue has completely dried, check the movement of the diffuser by gently pressing it with your fingers, no extraneous sounds there should not be, the diffuser should move in and out easily and without jamming. If yes, then we did everything correctly and centered it well, if not, we will have to repeat everything.

Upon completion of the work with glue and the successful completion of the task of removing debris from the bowels of the speaker, all that remains is to replace the midrange speakers on the cores and solder all the wires in place.

P.S. The metal mesh cover that usually comes with the speaker practically does not protect it from dust and small debris. In the future, to make the speaker last longer without repair, I can advise you to glue ordinary women’s nylon tights in two or three layers inside this protective mesh. Through such a filter, small debris will not get inside and will be preserved. appearance and the speaker itself, and the sound will pass through without problems.

This is where I end the article. speaker repair and I hope that the information will be useful to you.

DIY woofer repair

Today, the number of fans good sound, which simply throw away the wheezing speaker does not decrease! At the same time, the cost of an analogue can amount to a significant amount.
I think that the following will help anyone who has a great desire and perseverance to repair the speaker rather than buy a new woofer.

Available - a miracle of design thought, which was once the S-30 column (10AC-222).

The organ clearly needed surgery - when you gently pressed the diffuser, an extraneous sound was heard (very similar to a quiet click). It was decided to trephine this organ.

First, the patient's flexible lead wires were unsoldered (from the side of the contact pads).

Then, with a solvent (646 or any other capable of dissolving glue, such as “Moment”), using a syringe with a needle, the place where the dust cap and diffuser were glued together (around the perimeter) was moistened.

Place where the centering washer is glued to the diffuser (along the perimeter)...

And the place where the diffuser itself is glued to the diffuser holder basket (again along the perimeter).

The speaker was left in this state for about 15 minutes with periodic repetition of the previous three steps (as the solvent was absorbed/evaporated)

Attention! When working with solvent, you should observe safety precautions - avoid contact with skin (work with rubber gloves!) and mucous membranes! Don't eat or smoke! Work in a well-ventilated area!

When wetting, use a small amount of solvent, avoiding getting it on the place where the coil and centering washer are glued!

Depending on the type of solvent and air temperature, after 10-15 minutes of the above operations, using a sharp object, you can carefully pry up the dust cap and remove it. The cap should either come off very easily or offer very little resistance. If you need to apply significant force, repeat the operations by wetting its edges with solvent and waiting!

After peeling off the cap, carefully pour out the remaining solvent from the recess near the coil mandrel (by turning the patient over).

By this time the centering washer has time to come off. Carefully, without any effort, separate it from the diffuser holder basket. if necessary, re-wet the gluing area with solvent.

We wet the place where the diffuser is glued to the diffuser holder. We wait... We wet it again and wait again... After 10 minutes you can try to peel off the diffuser. Ideally, it should effortlessly separate from the diffuser holder (along with the coil and centering washer). But sometimes he needs a little help (the main thing is to be careful! Do not damage the rubber suspension!!!)

We clean the gluing areas from old glue and dry the disassembled speaker.

We examine the disassembled patient to find a fault. Let's look at the reel. If there are no abrasions or loose threads on it, we leave it alone. When a thread comes off, glue it back on. thin layer glue BF-2.

We carefully inspect the place where the supply wires are attached to the diffuser. So it is - the patient has the most common malfunction found in old speakers with a large diffuser stroke. The supply wire at the attachment point is frayed/broken. What kind of contact can we talk about when everything hangs on a thread running through the center!

Carefully bend the copper “antennae”.

And unsolder the supply wire.
We repeat the operation for the second transaction (even if he is still alive - the disease is easier to prevent!)

We cut off the supply wires at the break point.

And we tin the resulting ends (of course, we first use rosin). Care is required here! Use a small amount of low-melting solder - the solder is absorbed into the wiring like a sponge!

Carefully solder the wiring into place, bend the copper “antennae” and glue it with glue (Moment, BF-2) where the wiring connects to the diffuser. Let us remember - you cannot solder wires to the fastening “antennae”! Otherwise, how can the wiring be changed again in ten years? ;),

Assembling the speaker. We place the diffuser with all the “equipment” in the diffuser holder, orienting the wiring to the places where they are attached. Then we check the correct polarity - when connecting 1.5V AA battery to the terminals, when you connect the “+” battery to the “+” speaker, the diffuser will “jump” out of the basket. We place the diffuser so that its “+” supply wire is at the “+” mark on the speaker basket.

We solder the lead wires to the contact pads. Please note that the length of the wires has decreased by almost half a centimeter. Therefore, we solder them not as it was at the factory - to the hole in the plate, but with minimum stock, to save length.

Glue the diffuser. We use the indication for the glue used (I recommend “Moment”, main criterion choice so that the glue can later be dissolved with a solvent). I usually stick the diffuser 1-1.5 cm up so that the centering washer does not touch the diffuser holder basket, then I apply a thin layer of glue to it and the basket with a brush, wait and firmly push the diffuser inside, additionally pressing the washer to the basket around the perimeter using my fingers . Then I glue the diffuser (in the retracted state, avoiding distortion).

We leave the speaker upside down for several hours under a load (this is why our photographic film should not protrude beyond the plane of the diffuser!)

Then we check the speaker for correct assembly. We take out the centering and carefully check the movement of the diffuser with our fingers. It should walk easily, without making overtones (there should be no touching of the coil and the core!). We connect the speaker to the amplifier and feed it low-frequency tones at a low volume. There should be no extraneous sounds. If the gluing is incorrect (misalignment, etc.), the speaker must be unstuck (see above) and reassembled, being careful! With high-quality assembly, 99% of the time we will get a fully working speaker.

We coat the edge of the dust cap with glue, wait and carefully glue it to the diffuser. Care and precision are required here - a crookedly glued cap does not affect the sound quality, but it greatly spoils the appearance of the speaker. When gluing, do not press on the center of the cap!!! This may cause it to bend and you will have to peel it off, straighten it, coat the inside with a thin layer of epoxy for strength and glue it back.

We wait until all parts are completely glued together (about a day) and install ready speaker in his place. We enjoy the sound, which is no worse than that of a new factory similar speaker.

That's it, now you see that fixing a speaker is an easy task. The main thing is slowness and accuracy! So, in an hour, you can leisurely repair almost any woofer or midrange speaker, domestic or imported (for gluing up imported speakers, a more powerful solvent is often required, such as acetone or toluene, be careful - they are poisonous!!!) that has a similar defect.

After the operation, the speaker seemed to get a second wind, and he continued to stand and play in the subwoofer.

You can often come across requests for help in repairing and rewinding the coils of burnt-out speakers; articles on this topic have been on the Internet for a long time, but we decided to make our own. So, I got my hands on a burnt-out Pioneer subwoofer speaker from a TS-WX303 subwoofer; the rated power of the speaker is about 250 Watts. It seems to me that the former owner went too far with the power and as a result our speaker burned out.

When you press the diffuser, a clearly audible grinding sound is produced, this is the coil rubbing against the magnetic core, possibly falling apart, after disassembling the speaker everything will become clear. The main difficulty is to disassemble the speaker, because it is very important not to damage the speaker suspension, it’s good when the suspensions are rubber, such ones come off and come off with a bang, in the case of foam rubber and their analogues, everything is not as simple as it might seem at first glance.

So, a photo of my patient:

Personally, I disassemble speakers in one of two ways: with a thin blade, or by soaking them in a solvent. In the second case, you need to work strictly outside or in a well-ventilated area, but not at home or in the entrance. You need to prepare in advance all the tools necessary for repairs, perhaps primary tools for dismantling the suspension and centering washer. The centering washer is located under the diffuser, usually yellow color made of thick pressed mesh fabric.

For soaking, you can use a syringe, draw the solvent into the syringe and carefully spray the outer parts of the suspension, in the place where it is glued to the “basket”. Soaking usually takes a long time; in 5 minutes you will not separate the suspension from the speaker body. The centering washer is soaked in exactly the same way.

This is not the first time I have rewinded speakers, and the dismantling operation for this speaker took me about 5-7 minutes. After soaking, we unsolder the conductive wires from the terminals and remove the diffuser with the coil from the frame. In principle, it is possible and necessary to unsolder the wires before soaking, it will be more convenient... We look at the photo of the coil of my burnt speaker:

The photograph clearly shows overheated and charred turns of copper wire; this coil will have to be unwinded completely and re-wound. some unscrupulous repairmen practice next view repair: unwind part of the burnt wire and connect the break points together by soldering. Naturally, such a “homeless repair” will not last long; in addition, after unwinding some of the turns from the coil, it will noticeably reduce the total resistance of the speaker, which will certainly affect the power.

In general, if the coil is more or less alive, you can leave it, after soaking the coil with varnish, it will last - but not for long. This option is applicable for beginners, for those who are afraid to rewind the coil due to certain circumstances (for example, there is no necessary wire for rewinding).

Ideally, the speaker coil should be wound with BF-2 glue. It's not easy to find, but it's the most the best option. We glue the suspension rubber glue 88, it is usually sold in small jars in construction stores, this glue is used to glue carpets onto subwoofers:

Finding the right wire is also a problem, good wire donors are contactor (starter) coils, which are sold separately in electrical equipment stores and are not expensive, this is exactly the wire I use. The required wire can also be found in the demagnetization loop of picture tubes (CRT), a sample of my wire for winding is shown below in the photo:

I removed this wire and rewound it just from the starter, the diameter of the wire is approximately 0.35, by the way, it is not recommended to wind it with a wire that is too thin because The speaker power will drop sharply. If you take a wire thinner than it was, then you will have to make a little more turns than there were, otherwise the resistance of the speaker will be less.

You need to wind the wire turn by turn, winding a speaker is a delicate and labor-intensive task, the main thing is not to abandon everything halfway... I wound it with a wire of approximately the same cross-section, I got 4 layers in total, covered each layer with BF-2 glue and let it dry for about two hours. Determining the required length of a new wire with sufficient accuracy is not so difficult; you need to calculate the length of one turn (knowing its radius), multiply by the number of turns in the layer and the number of layers. My speaker required about 20 meters of enamel wire. The diameter of the wire is determined using a micrometer or caliper. For winding it is better to use specialized machine, which greatly simplifies the entire winding process; if you don’t have such a machine, you’ll have to wind the coil manually.

After the glue has dried, we begin to assemble the speaker. I note that gluing the centering washer and the suspension at the same time is highly not recommended, because with a 99% probability, after the glue dries, your speaker will groan. First you need to glue either the centering washer or the suspension (I glue the first). That is, we coat the edges of the washer and the gluing points on the speaker body with a brush, let it dry a little and carefully put the diffuser on the body so that the coil does not rub against the magnetic core.

It will be difficult the first time, so you can coat the washer with glue not entirely, but only at several points; if centering is successful, you can re-glue it.Next, we glue the suspension; when connecting the suspension to the speaker basket, in parallel, you need to center the suspension itself, so that there are no rustling or grinding noises when the diffuser moves. Then we solder the conductive copper wires (conductors) going from the coil to the speaker terminals and let the speaker dry for 24 hours.

There is another, more accurate option for centering the coil, but to do this you will have to remove the cap from the diffuser. After removing the cap, we put the diffuser and coil in the basket, then take A4 paper, cut it along the wide side lengthwise into two halves and roll it into a tube of approximately the same diameter as the core of our speaker and carefully insert it into the gap between the core and the coil, then You can safely glue the centering washer with the suspension. After the glue has dried, pull out the paper and glue the cap back on.

Most dynamic heads are not intended for disassembly and are, as it were, disposable (non-separable, difficult to repair) components of speaker systems. In practice, it is successful to disassemble the speaker standard design and it is often possible to reassemble it. The main task is to soften the glue that holds many components dynamics, and separating them from each other without injury or deformation.

If you have questions about rewinding speakers, ask them here, we will try to help!

How to wind a speaker coil?

The speaker coils are wound turn by turn until the specified coil length is obtained. In this case, as a rule, the number of turns is not counted.

1. Coil.
2. Sleeve.
3. Pad.
4. Sample.

When winding, maintain constant tension on the wire and carefully lay out the turns. The turns of the second layer are laid out especially carefully, when each turn must be strictly laid between the turns of the first layer.

To make it convenient to carry out such precise work, take care of the hand rest.

The coil with winding wire can be secured in any way convenient for you and installed on the floor.

More about it a simple machine for winding speakers you can read.

Another useful tool, which will be needed for winding the coils, is this kind of clothespin with a weight.

The required viscosity of the glue can be achieved by adding a small amount of alcohol with thorough mixing.

Expand the player to full screen to see the video in full resolution.

Before the main winding, several extra turns are wound onto the sleeve in order to securely fasten the wire and sleeve to the surface of the template. Then, during the next extra turn, an even layer of glue is applied to the sleeve with a brush.

After this, the first layer of the coil is wound quickly. Then a weight is attached to the wire, which allows you to maintain the necessary tension on the wire and release it before busy hand. Then, the first layer of the coil is covered with glue.

After fifteen to twenty minutes, when the glue has dried, you can begin winding the second layer.

First, one or two turns of the second layer are wound, and then the first layer of the coil is covered with glue. This is done so that fresh glue does not dissolve the glue applied earlier, and the first turn of the second layer does not fall into the gap formed between the outer turns of the first layer.

After winding the second layer of wire, the coil is dried for 10-15 minutes and then covered with glue again.

When the glue dries well, you can either remove the coil from the mandrel along with the sleeve, if it is already glued into the diffuser, or glue it into the diffuser directly on the template.

However, in some cases, the sleeve is glued into the diffuser already during speaker assembly.

To remove the sleeve from the template, the place of the gasket where the fixing drop of glue was applied is cut off, and the sleeve is removed from the mandrel along with the spool and gasket.

If the gasket does not slide along the mandrel, it means that the wire tension during winding was too high. It should be noted that excessive wire tension can reduce the gap between the sleeve and the core and make speaker assembly impossible. This is because copper wire can stretch and contract like any other metal.

Since there is a gap in the sleeve, when winding the coil, glue penetrates into it and the sleeve is glued to the gasket.

In order to separate the gasket from the sleeve, it is enough to use a brush to lightly moisten the place where the gasket is stuck to the sleeve with acetone or alcohol.

Now our coil is ready. Now it should be completely dried.

For final curing of the glue, the reel is fed electricity. The current strength is selected to achieve optimal mode curing.

The temperature during the drying process can be measured with an electronic thermometer.

If there is no suitable power supply, then the coil can be connected to the ULF and a signal from the Low Frequency Generator (LFO) can be applied to its input. The link to the software LFO is in the “Additional Materials”.

Curing mode for adhesives “BF-2”, “BF-4”.

Leave for 60 minutes. at room temperature.

Then 15 min. at 55... 60ºС.

Then 60 min. at 85... 90ºС.