How to distinguish a fake tool from BOSCH? Manufacturers of power tools: overview of the main brands and important notes Professional tools MAKITA

How to distinguish a fake tool from BOSCH?  Manufacturers of power tools: overview of the main brands and important notes Professional tools MAKITA
How to distinguish a fake tool from BOSCH? Manufacturers of power tools: overview of the main brands and important notes Professional tools MAKITA

The product marketed under the name BOSCH has always been different high quality assembly and manufacturing materials, durability and high level safety for the operator during work. Well, accordingly, it costs an order of magnitude, or even a little more, than its not so high-quality analogues. And, of course, as a consequence modern market instruments there are more and more so-called “replicas” or in other words fakes on this tool. The Budprokat company not only rents power tools, but is also an official dealer of Bosch. From us you can only buy an original instrument with a company guarantee, and we will be happy to tell you how to distinguish a fake from an original.

The main differences to pay attention to:

1) When choosing goods under brand name BOSCH pay attention to the color of the case and body of the instrument. The color of the case and body of a professional tool is blue, and for home handyman And garden tools - green color. The BOSCH logo on the case and body is embossed and has a rich red color. On fakes, the logo is usually made of glued letters.

2) The body of a real professional instrument is blue-black, while that of a fake one is grey-blue.
On the case, due to poor quality assembly of the fake, irregularities are visible - “burrs” from casting, backlash and large gaps.

3) Information label on counterfeit goods from thin film or a plastic plate. On such a label there is no information about the country of origin, but there is an inscription in hieroglyphs. The product code (ten-digit number) does not match the product code from the BOSCH catalog. The paint on the switch was applied sloppily, with smudges. A real instrument must have a locking button; a counterfeit product may not have such a button.

4) Pay attention to the warranty card and instructions. The warranty card of the original tool must be in A4 format. Pink colour with watermarks. The warranty card has a 16-digit number, tool markings, addresses service centers BOSCH. The instructions must have a translation in Russian.
Be careful, beware of fakes!

5) If they try to sell you a BOSCH tool set drill + grinder or jigsaw + sander.DON'T BE FOOLED! This FAKE. BOSCH does not produce such sets.

New Year's discounts!

As all our friends know and regular customers, the Budprokat company shows unprecedented care for all its partners. We are extremely pleased that throughout the year you stayed with us and used our quality…

Bosch blue or green: what's the difference? Which Bosch is professional?

When we go to a Bosch tool store, we often see almost identical hammer drills, screwdrivers, drills and grinders, differing only in the color of the case. A reasonable question arises: should I take the blue or green option and what is the difference? And the first thing that catches your eye is the difference in price. The green analogue is usually cheaper and this also raises a lot of questions: why is green cheaper, is it worse? Let's try to highlight the main differences:

1. GREEN TOOLS Bosch (Bosch),
the so-called series “for home craftsmen” or simply HOUSEHOLD


Designed for not very intensive use at home or in the country, in the workshop. For the good ones, comfortable conditions storage and operation. Careful and RELATIVELY RARE use. Rarely - this does not mean that he can only drill holes for a shelf a couple of times a year, but in the conditions of repairing one apartment or one person working with several tools in a garage and workshop, the green Bosch will serve well and faithfully for the time specified in its technical passport. It is NOT expected that the tool will be walked on, that it will be covered with cement dust, that it will constantly fall from the cabinet or with one drill. You will drill every day from 9 to 18 tirelessly.

Summer residents and home craftsmen are ready to carefully use and store their tools and do not need to use them continuously and intensively. This determines quite affordable prices for this model range.


2. BLUE PROFESSIONAL TOOL.

Unlike household ones, this tool is not at all for comfortable, but for HARSH CONDITIONS of construction sites and production workshops!

Increased PROTECTION of components against impacts, and electronics against the penetration of concrete dust, maintaining operability when dropped from a height of several meters, impact-resistant housings, special plastic, rubber and other materials for all elements without exception. Anything can happen on a construction site or in production. Dampness, direct sources of water (fog, snow, rain, water in wet drilling pumps), crushed stones falling on the wires and hand tools. Work in hot and cold weather. Everything must be heavy-duty and resistant to the external environment. RELIABILITY and THOUGHT OUT to the smallest detail, on which not only the quality and convenience of work depends, but also the LIFE and HEALTH of the worker!




Constantly growing requirements in Europe for protection from noise, vibration and dust force the manufacturer to continuously improve units for sound and vibration damping, develop dust removal and insulation systems, reduce the weight of power tools, introduce LED backlight working area, various systems protection against jerking, jamming, etc. in order to preserve the health of the person who works with the tool ALL WORKING DAY! The Germans are good at calculating expenses work injuries and occupational diseases, their professional tool for correct operation and taking into account all the recommendations from the instructions, one of the SAFEST! This manufacturer is also good at counting TIME, which, as you know, is MONEY for owners (developers, production owners).

Tool productivity is constantly improved by latest technologies. The tool itself cuts, drills, saws faster, and the process is accelerated by innovative equipment, where everything plays a role: latest materials, the shape of the cutting edges, chip evacuation grooves on the drill, self-sharpening surfaces and other scientific details. Such DURABLE equipment and tools need to be purchased less frequently, and operating costs fall. The time that a worker can keep in light in hands a convenient and thoughtful tool is growing. The convenient and aesthetic L-Boxx system of cases and tabs for neat storage, quick transportation and quick tidying up of the workspace again reduces time costs and improves the company’s image.

And naturally, all these scientific and technical bells and whistles, the latest materials and innovative developments are expensive and determine the cost of a professional tool. Hence its increased PRICE compared to household analogues.

THIS IS THE PRICE FOR QUALITY, CONVENIENCE, RELIABILITY, WEAR RESISTANCE, SAFETY, DURABILITY and ECONOMICITY during INTENSIVE WORK of professional tools in HARD CONDITIONS of production or construction.

Many people prefer to keep just such an instrument at home.

And all innovations and know-how gradually, over time, “creep” onto household tools, ceasing to be so expensive for them. So the CHOICE IS ALWAYS YOURS.

BOSCH MONO-BRAND TOOL STORE is located at:
Moscow (metro station Dynamo) Petrovsko-Razumovsky proezd, 5 ()

Here is one of the few places where most models of drills, angle grinders, rotary hammers, jackhammers, screwdrivers, impact wrenches, planes, saws, wall chasers, etc. can be viewed “live,” compared, and selected equipment or spare parts.
We work with regions, issue VAT invoices, and organize delivery of tools.
We have been working both as a regular wholesale and retail store for 20 years and, more recently, as an online store with delivery of Bosch tools in Moscow and throughout Russia.

which supplies to Russian market a lot of products for both professional and household use. Screwdrivers, drills, hammer drills, grinders, and Bosch milling cutters are popular among customers. Perhaps it is against the backdrop of this popularity that the question of the labeling of the company’s tools very often arises Robert Bosch.

As you know, many power tool manufacturers use an alphanumeric code in their model names. This code allows you to determine the most important parameters of the tool just by its name. This is exactly how Bosch labels its products, but in addition to this, color marking is also used.

Power tool color

So let's start with color. Go to any power tool store (you can also visit our store). What kind of colors can you see on the shelves: blue, green, yellow, orange, red, purple, gray... The variety makes your eyes widen! Some manufacturers only “paint” their products in the colors of their brand, but not all do this. And Bosch is a great example of this. By the color of a power tool you can determine its purpose: blue (dark green) is a professional tool, and light green is a household tool. Simple and clear.

  • For household tools- work no more than 4 hours a day with a 15-minute break every hour
  • For professional tool- work no more than 16 hours a day with a 15-minute break every hour.

Alphanumeric marking

The model names of Bosch power tools contain, as mentioned above, combinations of letters and numbers. Let's define what they mean. To make it more clear, let’s take the name of some hammer drill from our catalog. For example, a Bosch GBH 2-28 DFV rotary hammer (product code - 80892).
So, the marking is GBH 2-28 DFV. The first letter indicates the purpose of the tool:

G- professional, first letter from German word gewerblicher - commercial
P- household, the first letter from the German word persönlichen - personal
A- garden
B,D- measuring

We've sorted out the first letter: our Bosch GBH 2-28 DFV rotary hammer is for commercial use, that is, professional!

Now let's move on to the following letters (2 and 3 letters), which indicate the type of tool: BH is the designation of a hammer drill. Here is a list of other abbreviations:

B.H.(Bohrhämmer) - hammer drill
S.R.(Schlagbohrschrauber) - screwdriver
SH(Schlaghammer) – jackhammer
W.S.(Winkelschleifer) – angle grinder
S.B.(Schlagbohrmaschinen) – impact drill
B.M.(Bohrmaschinen) – hammerless drill
D.B.(Diamantbohrmaschinen) – diamond drill
EX(Exzenterschleifer) - eccentric sander
SS(Schwingschleifer) - orbital sander
HO(Handhobel) - plane
ST(Stichsägen) - jigsaw
KS(Kreissäge) – circular saw
S.A.(Säbelsäge) – reciprocating saw
OF(Oberfräse) - milling cutter
KF(Kantenfräse) – edge router
AS(Absaugsysteme) – vacuum cleaner
HG(Heißluftgebläse) - thermal blower
KP(Klebepistole) – glue gun
N.A.(Nager) nibblers
S.C.(Scheren) cutting scissors
P.O.(Polierer) – polishing machine
G.S.(Geradschleifer) – straight grinder
S.M.(Schleifmaschine) - sharpener
B.S.(Bandschleifer) – belt sander
D.A.(Deltaschleifer) - delta sander
R.L.(Rotationslaser) – rotational laser
LL(Linienlaser) – linear laser
P.L.(Punktlaser) – point laser
OL(Optisches Nivelliergerät) – optical level
MS(Multidetektor seiner) - detector
L.M.(Laser-Entfernungsmesser) – laser rangefinder
W.M.(Winkelmesser) - protractors
N.M.(Neigungsmesser) - levels
FS(Farbsysteme) - spray guns

By analogy, a manual professional router from Bosch will be designated as GOF, and a professional grinder - GWS... Got it? Go ahead!

Usually after three letters there are two numbers separated by a hyphen. They indicate characteristic parameters of this type tool. For example, for our Bosch GBH 2-28 DFV rotary hammer, code 2-28 indicates the weight and maximum drilling diameter: 2 kilograms and 28 millimeters. On an angle grinder you can find the designation 15-125, which indicates the power and maximum diameter of the disk: 1.5 kW and 125 mm.

The last letters usually indicate additional functionality of the tool. However standard features usually not indicated. Here are some codes for the last letters in the Bosch tool markings:

A– (Absaugeinheit) built-in dust removal system
B– (bügel) yoke handle
C– (Constant-Electronic) rotation speed stabilization system when the load increases
D– (Drehstopp zum Meißeln) rotation lock
E– (Elektronik) rotation speed adjustment
F– (Futter) replaceable drill chuck
H– (Handgriff) straight handle
I– (Intelligent) limitation starting current, protection against unintentional activation and jamming during operation (KickBack stop), new housing fixation (LVI)
J– starting current limitations
L– (Leistungsstark) increased power or performance
P– (Pendelung) the presence of a pendulum
R– (Revers) reverse, switching direction of rotation
T– (Torque-Control) torque adjustment
V– (Vibration Control) special system for vibration protection
X– circle braking system (Bosch Brake-System)

Thus, our Bosch GBH 2-28 DFV rotary hammer has the following additional functions: D - rotation lock, F - replaceable drill chuck, V - vibration protection. Some functionality is not indicated, since it is standard for similar hammer drills...

Well, that’s all we wanted to tell you about the labeling of Bosch products. We hope the information was useful!

IN Electric instruments have a unique classification. It is not kept silent, but sellers do not particularly advertise it, so not everyone knows about it. This means that tools produced by the same company and having the same performance characteristics may differ significantly.

The distinction implies the division of tools into professional, semi-professional and household. How significant the difference is can be judged by the cost. So you can buy Bosch rotary hammers at the best prices, choosing not a professional, but a household modification.

In this case, the difference in price can be 100 percent or more. This can be easily verified by comparing professional and household models tools http://abo.ua/elektroinstrument/bosch/.

But is it worth paying more if there is a cheaper option? On the other hand, isn't a low price an indicator of equally low quality?

To answer these questions, you need to understand how, besides price, professional and household types of tools differ. And also where to use the first and where the second and, finally, how to distinguish one from the other.

The main differences between professional and household tools

Despite certain external differences (we'll talk about them later), the main difference between home and professional tools is their filling.

For ease of comparison, we summarize the main differences in the table:

Professional tool Household tool
Almost all power units, and sometimes even body elements, use steel Only the gears and shafts of the mechanisms are steel; silumin is used for the power elements of the body
The body is made of impact-resistant plastic, often reinforced. Regular plastic is used for the body
Typically, closed ball bearings are used. Sliding bearings are used, sometimes even plastic ones
The electrical part is on bolt terminals, the wires are equipped with lugs. The wires are connected using spring terminals.
Bolts and nuts are used to assemble the housing The housing is assembled with screws

The purpose of all these design solutions can be briefly defined as a focus on long-term continuous operation of the mechanism. This is where the main difference between a professional instrument lies.

If used for a long time without a break, a household tool will fail. And not because it is bad, but because it is not designed for long-term operation.

Lubricant will leak from an overheated bearing, the housing will “behave” from prolonged dynamic influences, the contacts will oxidize and the motor brushes will burn.

But let the instrument “rest” in accordance with its passport and it will work for a long time and successfully.

Today we’ll talk about the difficulties that may arise when purchasing electric tool. We will learn to accurately identify a counterfeit, find “our” supplier, and determine an effective procedure for how to preparatory stage, and directly in the store. In general, let's focus on those points that various reasons not included in other articles.

Technical specifications. Learning to read a passport

The last point of our theoretical training will determine the necessary technical parameters. The main question: where to get information? There are two options: either on the manufacturer’s official website or from the user manual. Option three (product description in a web store) is erroneous, since few merchants bother to search for absolutely reliable information and check the printed text. Finding a competent and honest consultant is even more difficult.

So what do we need to know to shortlist potential buyers? Usually we look at the power of a product, its speed (the number of revolutions or strokes per unit of time), torque - all this is good, but performance indicators (processing depth) for various materials or the size of the maximum permissible equipment look much more eloquent.

The next point is the duration continuous operation. As we have already said, the application coefficient is the main indicator of the “professionalism” and endurance of the unit. Indeed, is there any sense in having a super-powerful motor if, after five minutes of heavy work, the tool must take a 10-minute “smoke break” (even this happens). There are extremely vague formulations like “for long work"or "the tool can be used for an 8-hour shift, but not more than 240 minutes per day." Some manufacturers discreetly keep silent about operating modes at all. Obviously, their tool is a pig in a poke.

Periodicity Maintenance. This point is not always indicated in the documentation, since the specific timing directly depends on the load on the tool. However, if you are told that after three dozen hours of work in the car it is necessary to replace the internal lubricant, then it turns out that with four hours of work a day, once a week you will have to go to the service center for maintenance. Be sure to pay attention to the frequency of brush replacement, or more precisely, to their average (because it depends on the load) service life. According to Feng Shui, the right tool it is designed so that when the brushes are worn out, then the time comes to do full-scale maintenance.

Be aware of any operating restrictions ( permissible loads, dust, humidity, temperatures, vibrations, noise...), prescribed for the unit in the passport - the more of them, the less reliable and safe the device in front of you. This applies only to a branded instrument; manuals for “noname” models usually talk about unconditional versatility. It happens on the contrary, young brands offer the consumer to carefully monitor their instrument: periodically disassemble the body to replace wear parts and brushes, to clean the commutator from copper oxides, etc., etc. It is clear that we will have to look for their service, since During the warranty period, the seals cannot be touched. Imagine a cordless screwdriver that cannot be used in temperatures below zero, or an angle grinder that is intended for indoor use only.

What does the price say?

If you leave counterfeit and uncertified tools behind, it will become obvious that units of the same class (with similar performance characteristics) cost approximately the same. That is, the cheaper the model, the simpler it is, perhaps intended for non-commercial use. True, there are pleasant exceptions, for example, if an authorized retail outlet decided to quickly get rid of a certain amount of goods, for example, to free up funds for the purchase of a new batch. Do not be afraid of promotions and special offers, provided that the seller is not in doubt. We also note that large stores with a high turnover and direct deliveries can afford to slightly reduce the retail price. Moreover, in the periphery, the cost of tools and especially equipment and consumables is much higher. Some auxiliary elements - cases and useful devices, additional attachments and rechargeable batteries, fast charging device, replaceable cartridges, factory lubricant. Sometimes it makes more sense to buy a “bare” device and equip it with the things you really need.

We carry out field tests

So, we have prepared well theoretically, and even selected several models from catalogs that, in our opinion, will cope with the tasks. Now they should be tested in reality. Ask the seller to remove the product from the packaging and allow you to power the instrument.

Listen to his work, the noise should be moderate and monotonous, without jerks or dips. It is especially useful to listen to the mechanics after a shutdown, when everything moves by inertia. The louder the instrument, the worse it is assembled. Loud noises may indicate poor lubrication, poor-quality bearings, lack of balancing.

Run the unit at low speeds and evaluate the spindle runout and rod deflection. Ask for the equipment to be installed and do the same with it. Pay attention to how quickly the equipment stops after turning off the power (unless the model is equipped with an electrodynamic brake). A sudden stop indicates a problematic assembly.

Load the tool into different modes, this is how you can understand the true power of the unit and the quality of the work performed. Official retail outlets usually allow you to test the tool in action; you will be provided with a workpiece, equipment and a specially designated place without any problems.

Check how auxiliary systems and options, buttons and switches work. Feel the force of the air flow cooling the engine; sometimes there is no “wind” at all.

One thing: Whatever you choose, only compare classmates with similar characteristics.

If sea ​​trials passed successfully, you can begin a superficial inspection:

  1. Evaluate the ergonomics of the tool - the comfort of the handles, dimensions, layout, accessibility of controls.
  2. Pay attention to how quickly the equipment changes and how securely it is fixed.
  3. “Shake” the car, focus on its balance.
  4. Weigh the tool by hand. Be careful. A small mass is, on the one hand, a plus, but, on the other hand, it can indicate a small number of metal parts. Therefore, we compare only direct competitors by class.
  5. Consider power cord. It must be securely fixed in the tool, have a long protective sleeve at the inlet and an unquestionable cross-section (thickness). A power cable length of less than 3 meters is not unreasonably considered bad manners. The exception is corded chain saws.
  6. Carefully inspect the body for mechanical damage(chips, cracks, grease leaks, abrasions, traces of tampering). Many of them can cause refusal warranty repairs. Others may mean the fact that the unit was used (for example, for the needs of a store) or was returned to the retail outlet and repaired. If in doubt, ask for another copy.
  7. Look for signs of corrosion on the metal parts - this is a sign of improper storage.
  8. Collect all the auxiliary elements: stops, soles, guides. Everything must be securely and accurately fixed, without bending, knocking, or modernization.
  9. Check all elements of the unit for play. The fewer there are, the more quality product you hold in your hands.

We make the purchase correctly

Before you head home, being the proud owner of a new device, you need to take a few more small steps. First, we check the completeness of the package (simply check the contents of the case with the corresponding list from the manual). Secondly, we check that the warranty card is filled out correctly:

  • full name of the instrument;
  • catalog number and serial number(check the nameplate);
  • number cash receipt(it’s better to immediately attach the check to your passport);
  • living stamp trade organization;
  • Date of sale;
  • seller's name and signature.

Now you can relax, at this stage you did everything you could. If you are a novice user, do not rush to immediately destroy and assemble, first familiarize yourself with the rules for safe operation of power tools, as well as the main nuances for correct operation - we discussed these issues in detail in previous articles. We wish you good luck with your work.