How to punch a hole in a brick wall? How to make an opening in a load-bearing wall and strengthen it - step by step instructions Structures that cover an opening in a wall are called

Repeatedly in our lives we are faced with the reconstruction of apartments or houses. And often this process is accompanied by the construction of new entrances. But what to do when, behind the layout, this passage is located in the load-bearing wall? This task is by no means an easy one. Having made a mistake, the design of the room as a whole may suffer. The situation is complicated if a person decides to do all the work with his own hands, but in no case should you despair. You just need to take into account some of the subtleties of working with a load-bearing wall.

Coordination of redevelopment

Before starting work, it is necessary to obtain the consent of the relevant authorities. The following factors influence their response:

• housing construction (so that the room is not completely destroyed due to the opening);
• deterioration of walls (walls, like people, have the ability to age and lose their former strength and durability);
• wall type and thickness;
• placement of the opening (it should not coincide with the junction of the ceilings and the wall);
• the size of the opening in relation to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wall;
• the gap between the opening and adjacent walls;
• the gap between the highest edge of the opening and the ceiling;
• opening width;
• the number of floors above the opening.

Only after receiving a positive response from the relevant authorities, we proceed to direct work.

Tool selection

The first step in any construction work is the preparation of equipment. Professional builders use a concrete cutter, a do-it-yourself tool for working with load-bearing walls - a jackhammer, and a puncher will also work. In addition, you will need:

• sledgehammer;
• marking equipment;
• welding;
• studs or bolts (depending on the profile);
• nuts;
• washers;
• channels;
• cement mortar.

Preparatory work

1. Make sure that there are no electrical communications behind the wall or turn them off.

2. Mark the outline of the opening. Due to the fact that the load-bearing walls are thick, they have to be disassembled from 2 sides.

3. Drill through holes with a 12mm bit in the corners of the outline. They will help you navigate while marking the opening on the other side.

4. Cut out the channels of the required length.

Installing the jumper

The jumper is the most important component in the whole process. The load on the load-bearing walls will be transferred to this part, so the safety of the whole house depends on the correct installation of it.

For installation, first of all we knock down the plaster and knock out a recess along the upper line of the opening, we will lay the channel into it. The length of the recess is: the width of the opening plus one meter. The profile should fit snugly into the place prepared for it. We clean the remains of the brick with a wire brush and rinse with water.

For tightening fasteners, we drill holes in the profile in increments of approximately 3 cm (no more). When everything is ready, we wet the surface and apply a cement mortar into which we immerse the channel. We drill through the wall, focusing on the prepared holes. On the reverse side, thanks to the previous stage of work, we easily outline and knock out the same niche. We insert the second profile into it (with holes drilled, as in the first one) and tighten both channels with studs (bolts), at the ends of which we put washers and tighten the nuts. We fill the voids in the profiles with concrete or brick.

Another way to set the jumper:

In addition to the above method of installing a jumper, there is a second one. For him, we need two beams with an L-shaped profile. This design is called a precast concrete lintel. Such profiles do not need to be tightened with studs (bolts). After the grooves in the places of support of the jumper have been cleaned, we put a thick layer of cement mortar on both sides. Next, we proceed to the installation of reinforced concrete beams. When the solution dries, we can start cutting the opening.

Cutting an opening depending on the material

Many people are worried about how to make an opening in a brick wall. In fact, among all materials, with a brick, this process will be the easiest. Removing one row, all the rest will go without problems. The situation is quite different with concrete. It will take a long and difficult time to work with a puncher.

• We knock out a concrete wall:

We make an opening in a concrete load-bearing wall, to facilitate our work, we will proceed as follows:

1. Divide the wall area into several small squares.

2. According to the applied contours, we cut the concrete with a grinder or drill it with a puncher (this will take more time).

3. Separate elements of the wall are knocked out with a sledgehammer quite simply, while in others it will be necessary to disassemble the reinforcement.

For whom it is more convenient to see how to properly break through a load-bearing wall, the video is at the end of the article.

• Finishing work:

After the opening is ready, it is necessary to further strengthen it. Between two channels we weld a continuous strip of steel, approximately 6 mm thick. Another option: we weld the plates in increments of 2 cm. We install corners on both sides of the opening, or, in their absence, channels are also suitable, but they will require niches. We weld them to the upper crossbar of the opening. Also, we connect each pair of corners with steel plates and tighten them with studs (for them, on the corners or channels, it is necessary to drill holes in advance). If this reinforcement seems not enough to you, then to make the load-bearing wall more durable, install the lower horizontal jumper, weld it to the racks.

door from window

Often there are cases when the door is planned to be made in place of the window. This operation does not require much effort.

In order to make a door from the window of a load-bearing wall with our own hands, we need:

• steel corners (necessarily at an angle of 90 degrees);
• channels;
• reinforced concrete beams;
• powerful perforator;
• ruler;
• Bulgarian;
• sledgehammer;
• Sander.

First of all, remove the window. In its old place there may be remnants of plaster and paint, we remove them with a grinder. After we get rid of the lower partition, if it is made of brick, then we simply pierce it with a sledgehammer, if it is concrete, then we cut it out as with a normal opening. If metal fragments were present in the partition, we get rid of them with the help of a grinder. We disassemble the plasterboard partition in parts (first of all, we eliminate the self-tapping screws).

We get rid of the debris and begin to install the jumper. The jumper is installed using the same technology as when creating a doorway from scratch.

Considering that we are making an opening in a load-bearing wall, it is advisable to fix the overlapping structures using long vertical posts along the entire height of the housing.

Arch in load-bearing wall

Sometimes, instead of a doorway, the owners put an arch. It looks much prettier. But there are many nuances in working with the arch. For example, only a professional can make it in a brick house, since a relationship with the location of the masonry seams is required. With a panel house, things are different. This option can be done independently.

• We make an arch in the load-bearing wall of a panel house:

First of all, we cut out a U-shaped opening, which we strengthen with profiles, we will fit the arch into it. The next step is to measure the doorway.

After measuring, we proceed to create the frame:

1. We make a frame, on which in the future we will mount a curved strip, for it we use a profile 27 by 28.

2. We select scissors for metal, it will be most convenient to work with those that have a spring mechanism (for this type, the handles themselves lean back after compression).

3. We cut the profile, 2 sides out of three, it is necessary that it acquire an arcuate shape (the steeper you plan the bend, the more often we make cuts).

4. We turn the profile clockwise to the side, thereby placing it inside the fixed right front part of the arch (the 2nd one should be on the opposite side).

5. We make cuts on the upper and middle parts every 50 mm.

6. The frame is ready, but it should be strengthened. We install crossbars made of profile 60 by 27, fixing them with short self-tapping screws.

7. We install the frame in the opening.

Next, we need to make the front parts of the arch. To do this, you can choose any material, but in self-production, drywall will be the best option. The front parts are in the shape of a semicircle. To get the perfect shape, we will make a “compass” from improvised things. Take the thread and fix it in the center of the semicircle, measure the radius (the width of the opening divided by two) and fix the second end on the pencil. We draw, cut and attach to the frame. Our arch is ready, we can safely plaster or paint it.

Connecting a room to a balcony

A balcony is always made in a load-bearing wall, this is the main problem. Getting permission to connect it to a room is very difficult. In addition, it should be borne in mind that the balcony is a settling area in case of fire. It is easiest to take a person out of it. Therefore, before you decide to take such a step, think carefully.

If the decision has not changed, and you have received permission, then begin the following work. The first step is to glaze the balcony. Next, we dismantle the wall, but since it is a carrier, we must install a jumper that will take on the entire load. Also, during the work it will be necessary to raise the floor on the balcony. The last step will be the insulation of the balcony.

It is worth adding that this process is very laborious and for safety it is better to consult a professional.

Closing the old hole

Very often, after creating a new entrance, the need for the previous one disappears and it must be repaired. In the case of an internal partition, it is possible to lay a plasterboard sheet, then with an external one, in addition to the capital bookmark, there are no other options. For embedding, we use materials such as brick or foam block.

First, let's prepare the hole. We remove the plaster (and if present, then the paint) to the very base. We do this process along the entire wall, and not just in places of slopes. In the opening of the brick we make recesses that will be needed for binding with fresh masonry. We remove half the brick in every fourth row. We drill one-sided holes in the ends of the concrete wall and drive metal rods into them, 7-9 mm thick. A prerequisite is that the holes are in places between the rows of future masonry. We cover the threshold of the opening with waterproofing, it will serve as a roofing material.

Before laying each subsequent brick row, it is necessary to pull the thread in a horizontal position between two opposite walls of the opening. This will be required to avoid errors during masonry. To be completely sure, it also costs a building level. We knit the rods that look out between the rows with reinforcement (masonry mesh is suitable instead).

After we have laid the opening with bricks, we wait a day and begin to plaster. The areas that were freed from plaster and the masonry itself are primed. We attach a steel mesh to the primer (for greater strength) and plaster again. The amount of plaster solution to be applied depends on the unevenness of the walls.

The openings on the inside are much easier to seal. First, we install the crate (using a profile) on one side of the old passage. Having plastered the first side, you can proceed to the installation of the crate on the opposite side. We lay a sound insulator (a prerequisite) and sheathe it with panels. Finishing work will be final.

Making a new doorway in a load-bearing wall is hard enough, but when you look at your updated room, you'll realize it was worth the effort. This process is possible even with your own hands, without the help of professionals. The main thing is to follow all the recommendations for working with load-bearing structures, and you will not have problems. And always remember, safety comes first.

In some cases, when redeveloping rooms, one has to face the need to install additional windows and doors. In this regard, you will need to punch an opening in the wall.

To complement your home with another window or door, you will have to make an opening in a brick wall.

Although this procedure is quite complicated and not very safe, it can be done by hand.

Preparatory work

Before drilling a hole in a brick wall, make sure that there are no electrical wires, fittings or pipes in it. For this, a metal detector is used. If there is electrical wiring in the wall, then it must be carefully placed in another place. If there is a chimney, then the distance to the opening should exceed 3 m.

Immediately it is worth deciding in which wall the opening will be punched. There are two main types:

• bearing wall;
• a wall that does not carry a load.

A wall that is not load-bearing can only be identified when it is divided by a partition. Or in the event that it is indicated in the building project.

In other cases, such a wall is considered a load-bearing wall.

As for the load-bearing wall, there is a nuance here. Many are mistaken when they say that if there is another wall above the wall, then it is a carrier. After all, the distribution of loads can occur through beams or lintels, which are supported by a load-bearing wall.

When creating an opening for a door, special attention is paid to the size of the opening. It should not exceed 2 m in width and 2.1 m in height. A hole is made in the middle of the wall. This ensures uniform distribution of loads.

For dismantling, the following materials and tools will be required:

• wooden beam;
• burnt brick;
• concrete mortar;
• boards;
• corner;
• perforator;
• Bulgarian;
• chisel;
• a hammer;
• capacity;
• trowel;
• jumper;
• bolts;
• protective glasses.

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Punching an opening in a load-bearing wall

This process involves strengthening the floors with the help of supporting elements called shoes. The bar is mounted on thick boards. It turns out load-bearing beams that abut against the shoes.

When creating a wide opening, load-bearing beams must be laid on both sides of the opening along the walls. This is done before the installation of the supporting structures. This is the only way to achieve normal movement of the jumpers. The ideal basis for strengthening the floor is a concrete surface. The load-bearing elements of the floor, which rest on the wall, are supported for some time.

Punching an opening in masonry is carried out in the following sequence. First, a strobe is cut into the wall. A jumper is laid in it, which is covered with a concrete solution. The next fence is mounted after the mortar has set.

If there is fragile masonry, then vertical stripes should be punched. Moreover, this procedure is carried out from two sides. Old masonry is connected to new slopes, which are created using fired bricks.

Before installing the slopes, the bricks and the old wall should be slightly moistened with water. To attach new bricks to the old masonry, the method of spike ligation up to 5 rows of bricks is used. The length of the masonry is 0.3-0.45 m.

After installing the jumpers and making an opening in the wall, all loose bricks are reinforced with cement mortar.

All edge elements of the structure are aligned. They should be at right angles to the wall surface. The edges are flush with the applied plaster.

If a doorway is created, plugs must be installed before the slopes are leveled. Punching of solid masonry is carried out without the procedure of strengthening the old masonry. Only punching of sockets intended for the supporting structure is done.

Strengthening the doorway in the bearing wall is carried out with the help of corners. Their fastening is carried out in two places: inside and outside the opening. To do this, a horizontal opening is created in which the corners are placed and tightened with bolts.

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Dismantling of walls that do not bear loads

This process begins at the top of the wall with a gradual transition to the dismantling of bricks located near the floor.

This technology reduces the likelihood of wall collapse. If punching a hole needs to be done near the ceiling, then it is imperative to carry out marking work.

Removing the top row of the wall is done with a hammer and chisel. The chisel must be placed strictly perpendicular to the knocked out bricks. When removing the next rows, it must be taken into account that some bricks may lie without rigid adhesion to each other. This is how the hole for the window is made.

When arranging a doorway, it is necessary to provide for the presence of jumpers, with the help of which the load is distributed on both sides of the wall. When marking the hole, a 30 mm gap should be taken into account, which is located between the wall and the door frame.

Marks are made on the wall where the jumper will be located. The extreme points of this fence are located at a distance of 20-25 cm from the doorway. A hole is punched under the jumper. If the wall is too wide, then it is better to lay and concrete two lintels. The hole between the lintel and the wall is also filled with concrete. If there is a risk of collapse of the bricks, the wall must be completely dismantled, and a new masonry must be carried out above the lintel.

We are often asked: how realistic is the opening in the load-bearing wall? And this is no accident - recently, one of the most common options for redevelopment of an apartment in typical houses is the arrangement of such openings. Most often, the need for an additional opening arises as a result of a bathroom or bathroom due to which the entrance to the kitchen is laid, and a new one is made from the adjacent room. But there are many other redevelopment options that affect load-bearing walls.

But whichever one you choose, it should be borne in mind that the main wall is always a key element in the construction of a house, ensuring its strength and stability, and hence the safety of all residents.

What threatens the unauthorized device of the opening in the bearing wall

Moreover, they can be forced to return "everything as it was" before redevelopment, because the housing inspectorate is endowed with very wide powers, starting with fines and ending with the transfer of the case to court, the verdict of which may be eviction from the apartment. Therefore, before you arbitrarily make an opening in a load-bearing wall, you should obtain permission from the MZHI.

Why Carrier Opening Device Is Denied

Many will have a question: “why is it possible for one, and for others, it seems to be the same thing, it is impossible?”. That's just the point, that "like". In order to understand the difference, you need to know the features of the device of a multi-storey building, and it is your house.

In most typical panel and block houses, the external and many internal walls of apartments are load-bearing, that is, they serve as a support for horizontal slabs (ceilings), thus ensuring the stability of a multi-ton structure. And the closer the wall is to the foundation, the greater the total weight it "holds" on itself.

That is why it is more likely to obtain permission for an opening in a load-bearing wall if the apartment is located on one of the upper floors, although even here everything depends on the current situation, in our practice, openings on the 2nd floor of a 17-storey building were approved, and refusals were received for openings on the 22nd floor of a 22-storey building.

Also, the condition of the walls in the apartments located on the floor above and below affects the ability to obtain a permit. That is, if at least one of these apartments has already made a similar opening, your chances are greatly reduced. Although it doesn’t matter, the possibility of reconciling still remains, but the only condition is the exact coincidence of the openings vertically. The factors on which the ability to cut an opening in a load-bearing wall depends do not end there - one of the main ones is the indentation of the opening from the outer wall of at least 1 meter.

The author of the project of the house is also obliged to take into account the degree of wear of the supporting structures, because houses, like people, tend to "age". And also check whether the planned opening coincides with the junction of the ceilings and the wall.

All these components will determine (in the case of a positive decision) the size of the opening in the bearing wall (the width of the standard opening in the houses of GUP MNIITEP is 90 cm), its possible location, as well as the method of metal profiles.

Features of coordinating the redevelopment with an opening in the bearing wall

All of the above and other information should be reflected in the developed on the state of the structures and the possibility of opening the opening. And all work must be carried out in accordance with the redevelopment project approved by the Housing Inspectorate.

If the opening has already been completed, a TOR will be required on the admissibility and safety of its device. It will show whether it will be permissible to leave it, or whether a partial (or complete) laying of this opening is necessary, as well as other actions, such as additional reinforcement. Prices for the design of openings may vary depending on the type of house, year of construction and other factors.

We also note that work on the organization of openings should be carried out in strict accordance with the project. If it specifies the use of unequal corners as reinforcement (relevant for MNIITEP houses), then channels should not be used instead. We will talk about the types of amplification in more detail below.

The dismantling of the wall section under the opening is usually recommended to be done with a non-impact tool, that is, with a diamond wheel. Cutting and reinforcing a new opening must be witnessed by concealed work. Therefore, it is better to immediately choose a contractor who has the appropriate one. If your repairmen do not have access, then when contacting us, we can, on the basis of an agreement, carry out technical supervision of the work of your builders.

It should be noted that since 2007, in all apartment buildings designed by the State Unitary Enterprise MNIITEP, and this is a large part of the panel housing stock in Moscow, it is forbidden to make openings in the load-bearing walls. In addition to individual series (for example, P44T), where in 3-room apartments a place has been prepared in advance for an opening between the kitchen and the room - the so-called transforming wall.

Now let's talk about the technical nuances and differences when arranging an opening in the load-bearing walls of houses of various types.

The device of rectangular openings in load-bearing walls of various types , differs from a technical point of view.

Let's start with hole in brick wall . From the point of view of construction work, this is the simplest type of reinforcement, since there are no loads that are distributed throughout the wall. Usually, the load on the lintel is calculated, based on the results of the calculations, the opening is reinforced with a lintel. The main difficulty in calculating the opening in a brick wall is the presence of many channels in them. Recall that interfere with the design of ventilation ducts.

Reinforcement of the opening in a brick load-bearing wall is carried out as follows: two strobes are cut along the contour of the lintel, channels are inserted on both sides of the wall, which are pulled together. In this case, the voids between the brick and the metal are filled with cement mortar. After it dries, an opening is cut and vertical channels are installed.

Important: when making an opening in a brick house, a masonry defect may be found in the load-bearing wall, simply put, the bricks can fall off. In this case, packers are used - special tubes that are hammered into the brick through holes in the channel, after which the voids are filled with cement.

At arrangement of openings in the bearing walls of panel houses it is necessary to calculate the stress vector in the wall. This can be done both with the help of special programs, and with the help of pre-compiled tables (which are available in design institutes). Reinforcement of the opening in the bearing wall occurs with the help of an unequal corner with dimensions of 100x63x8. As in the case of a brick wall, a self-expanding polymer solution is used.

Separate "talents" reinforce openings in panel houses with the help of a channel, which is absolutely impossible to do.

It is also worth noting that in panel houses there are defects in the installation of load-bearing elements, in which the inter-panel joint is displaced, and sometimes even the panel has a thickness less than planned, in connection with which the engineer of the design institute may refuse to open the opening.

Is it possible to expand the load-bearing opening in a monolithic house? Device opening or its expansion in the wall , somewhat safer than in panel houses, and there are fewer load-bearing walls in such buildings. The difficulties include only the thickness of the walls, which can reach half a meter on the lower floors.

Expansion of openings of various shapes in load-bearing walls

You need to understand that the expansion of the opening is a rather complicated event from the point of view of an engineer who will calculate for you its allowable width, and indeed the admissibility of his device, since in the event of an emergency it is he who is criminally responsible for it. As a rule, openings in the load-bearing walls of panel houses are not allowed to be expanded. By the way, in panel houses built after 2007 according to the projects of OJSC MNIITEP, they also rarely give permission for an opening. Theoretically, it is possible to expand the opening in the load-bearing wall in any building, but in practice, many design institutes prefer not to tie their fate to such a risk.

Arched opening device in a load-bearing wall

And now we will talk about the real architectural. Let us explain: it is much easier to arrange an ordinary rectangular opening with a margin of height, and then arrange a plasterboard arch in it, than to reinforce an arched opening. The fact is that during this event, a certain number of cuts are cut in the channel, after which it is bursting in the opening with the help of a jack. The work is technically complex, time-consuming and expensive. Thus, it is unprofitable for either the customer or the construction team. By the way, OJSC MNIITEP, as a rule, when an arched opening is found, does not complicate and simply restores the wall.

The device of the opening or its expansion in the load-bearing wall without reinforcement with metal structures

Yes, yes, it happens, and this applies, as a rule, to monolithic houses, since the bearing capacity of the walls of the monolith is much higher than that of their panel and brick counterparts, since they are often low-rise. Often, this happens on the upper floors of buildings.

As you can judge, having read the material of the article, it is quite difficult to make an opening in a load-bearing wall in compliance with all building codes, and therefore there is a possibility that you will contact specialists. Our company, not only re-planning projects (including those with an opening in the bearing wall), but also successfully coordinating them in the Moscow Housing Inspection for more than one year. us or write to the e-mail, which can be found in the upper right corner of the screen.

Examples of openings in load-bearing walls

Normative acts regulating the rules for arranging openings in load-bearing walls:

SP 20.13330.2011. Loads and impacts
SP 52-101-2003 Concrete and reinforced concrete structures
SP 15.13330.2010 Stone and reinforced masonry structures
SP 70.13330.2011 Bearing and enclosing structures.
SP 54.13330.2011 Residential multi-apartment buildings

The main document regulating the impact on load-bearing structures and in particular the organization of openings in load-bearing walls is SNiP 3.03.01-87, which was introduced to replace several different SNiPs and SNs.

During the repair or reconstruction of the house, sometimes it is necessary to redevelop the premises. Often an obstacle to this becomes a load-bearing wall that cannot be demolished. But a device in such a wall of an opening for a window or door can solve the problem. How to do it right so as not to weaken the structure of the building?

Before you start making an opening, you need to install a jumper that will take on the load - from the part of the wall above the future opening, from the ceiling resting on the wall, from the wall of the upper floor or from the roof structure.

Jumper is serious and not easy

The safety of not only the wall structure, but the entire house will depend on how the jumper is made. When designing a jumper, a number of factors should be taken into account, namely:

• the size of the opening in relation to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe wall;
• distance from the opening to adjacent walls;
• distance from the upper boundary of the opening to the ceiling;
• opening width;
• type of material from which the wall is made;
• thickness and technical condition of the wall,
• number of floors above the opening
• type and location of floor slabs.

You must also decide whether to run time jumpers support the floor slab in order to unload the wall in this way. This may be necessary in case of a very large opening. The designer also has the choice of the material from which the jumper will be made.

Easier - made of steel

Most often, when repairing, they resort to the installation of steel jumpers, since they can be done relatively easily and quickly. As a rule, they consist of two channels, but can be of I-beams and corners.

These profiles are pulled together by bolts (the distance between the bolts is not more than 50 cm).

The length of the channels is selected so that after punching the opening, they rest on the wall on each side to a depth of 15-30 cm.
The recommended bolt diameter is 20 mm. The end bolts must be located in the support zone, that is, above the section of the wall on which the jumper will rest.

The bolts can be easily tightened if their length is chosen in such a way that after installing the channel, they protrude from its wall by about 5 cm.
Attention! If the wall thickness is less than 24 cm, the jumper must be carried out in two stages. First, installation is carried out on one side of the wall (so as not to weaken the wall), and only then on the other.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for punching an opening in a load-bearing wall

1. Work begins by cutting out steel channels of the required length and drilling holes for bolts in them.
2. Mark the contour of the future jumper on the wall. Drilling the wall, mark the place for the jumper on the other side of the wall
3. Then the plaster is knocked down in these places
4. Niches for mounting steel channels are knocked out on both sides of the wall. This can be done manually or with an electric jackhammer.
5. Holes for bolts are drilled in certain places
6. Recesses for steel channels should be thoroughly cleaned of brick residues with a wire brush, and then wash off the dust with water
7. A thick cement mortar (minimum grade M50) is applied to the wetted surface and a steel channel is pressed into it.
8. The voids of the steel channel are filled with cellular concrete tiles or bricks.
9. Bolts are passed through holes. Washers are applied to their ends and nuts are screwed
10. When the mortar sets and hardens, a hole is pierced in the wall with a jackhammer
11. A steel mesh is applied to the lintel prepared in this way and the slopes of the opening ...
12. Cement mortar is applied on top
13. Plaster the rest of the surface

JUMPER IN THE EXTERNAL WALL SHOULD BE INSULATED

If an opening is made in an external load-bearing wall, you should remember about the appropriate insulation of the lintel. Only in this case, it will not become a cold bridge through which heat will leave the house. If the wall is two-layer or in the future it is planned to insulate the house, then it is not difficult to insulate it. After completing the jumper, it is enough to lay a slab of expanded polystyrene on the outside of the wall. It is somewhat more difficult if the wall is single-layer. Then the jumper should be made narrower so that at least 5 cm remains on the outside of the insulation layer.
Attention! If the steel channel is joined to the Styrofoam, this can accelerate its corrosion. In this case, it is necessary to use a galvanized steel channel or cover a conventional channel with anti-corrosion paint.

Figure - Insulated jumper in the outer wall

Can be done differently
Making an opening in the wall, you can also decide on the installation of a prefabricated reinforced concrete lintel, consisting of two L-shaped beams. You don't need to tighten them with screws. After clearing the niche in the places where the lintel is supported, a thick layer of strong cement mortar (Ml00 grade) is applied on both sides, then a reinforced concrete beam is installed. When the mortar sets, the voids between the beam and the wall are filled with cement mortar (minimum grade M50).
After setting and hardening of the solution, an opening is knocked out, wrapped with a mesh and plastered.
Attention! The brand determines how strong the solution is: the larger the number, the stronger it is.

Figure - Reinforced concrete lintel of two L-shaped beams

About installing a door in an opening with your own hands, you can

Arranging a doorway in a load-bearing wall is not an easy task if you decide to do the work from scratch. It is far from always possible to break through a new passage, because the design of the house as a whole may suffer from this. Let's look at what needs to be considered in this case and how to cope with this task in certain conditions.

The doorway in the load-bearing wall requires mandatory reinforcement

Important Aspects

Quite a few people are concerned about the question - is it possible to make a doorway in the load-bearing wall of a brick or panel house. In general, such a solution is allowed subject to the necessary conditions, but any redevelopment of such a plan is undesirable. Bearing walls are subjected to enormous loads, and therefore a violation of the technology for performing work can lead to the destruction of floors and the house as a whole.

The transfer of the doorway must be coordinated with a special service. It can take several months to complete this process, so you should think through such options in advance.

To avoid mistakes, the following important aspects must be considered:

• material that was used in the construction of the house;
• housing layout;
• the ratio of the size of the opening and the load-bearing wall itself;
• the condition of the house and, in particular, the ceilings;
• the load that is placed on the wall from above;
• wall thickness and condition.

The thickness and condition of the wall is one of the important aspects when organizing an opening in a load-bearing wall.

opening project

If you are thinking of moving a doorway into a load-bearing wall, first of all, you need to decide on the project. This will directly affect the order of the work and its complexity.

The following options are possible:

• A simple doorway in the plane of a load-bearing wall. This is an opening of standard sizes, which is made from scratch in a new location. In this case, the existing passage may be closed or remain intact, which will also affect the distribution of the load.
• archway. A more difficult option, since the shape of the bends must be taken into account. For brick walls, only a professional can do this work, since a relationship with the location of the masonry joints is required.
• Minor aisle shift. This is the easiest and most secure option. In this case, the lintel is shifted to the side, part of the existing passage is sewn up or bricked, and a fragment of the wall of the required size is cut out on the side.

Varieties of doorways in the bearing wall

Used tools and materials

Punching a hole in a load-bearing wall requires a special tool. The use of an impact hammer is not recommended, as rough tampering and vibration can lead to cracks and chips.

For cutting walls are used:

• Wire cutting. A special installation, which is based on wire cutting elements with artificial diamonds on the bushings.
• Diamond drilling. For work, durable drill bits with a diamond coating of a cone shape or with a square section are used.
• Diamond cutting saw. In this case, it is recommended to use a wet diamond cutting disc and a water tank. This will cool the tool and prevent excessive dust generation.

Tools used for sawing walls

Moving a doorway is a painstaking process. Be prepared for the fact that a lot of dust and debris is generated in the room. It is recommended to completely remove furniture and appliances during the renovation.

Panel house

An urgent question for apartment owners is how to make an opening in the load-bearing wall of a standard panel house? In this case, it is supposed to cut out a part of the concrete slab that holds the upper tiers. In order to redirect the load from this section, steel jumpers should be used.

First you need to mark the wall according to the developed project. Then holes are drilled along these marks, indicating the base points. The main ones are the upper corner ones, focusing on them, you can remove part of the concrete and lay a jumper. If you are doing it in two parts, first you need to install each half in the opening with a certain distance beyond its borders. Then drill holes for the screed with bolts, tighten them as tightly as possible and concrete.

Until the solution dries, work cannot be continued, this may violate the integrity of the structure.

After the concrete has hardened, you can proceed directly to sawing the opening itself. For these purposes, diamond cutters are used. You need to work in stages:

1. To begin with, cut the general contour to a shallow depth on both sides, focusing on the drilled marks.
2. Then divide the entire interior area into small sections.
3. Saw the wall into these pieces and knock them out of the opening one by one.

The lintel is the main element in creating a doorway in a panel house

If you decide to create an arched vault, you need to use a bent channel to strengthen the opening. Additionally, a strapping is installed on the sides. In this case, all elements of the supports must follow the contours of the future opening.

Brick house

In order to equip an opening in the load-bearing wall of an apartment brick building, it is necessary to slightly change the methodology for carrying out the work. The first stage as a whole remains unchanged. It is necessary to outline the approximate location of the opening and its shape. Then remove the top layer of plaster in order to free the brickwork. So, you will see all the seams and details of the wall, which will allow you to easily adjust the project to specific conditions.

All contours and details need to be corrected taking into account the location of the brick seam. In order for the jumper to perform its functions to the full, it is necessary to place it directly in the inter-seam space. To transfer the contours, a drill is also used and a through hole is made.

Since it is somewhat more difficult to make an opening in a bearing brick wall, you need to take care of the presence of auxiliary supports and lintels in advance. Until you fix the channels, you need to provide support to the upper masonry. Care must be taken to cut the opening, for this it is best to use diamond drills to minimize damage.

An important step in creating an opening in a bearing brick wall is fixing the channel

In order to strengthen the opening for a brick house, it is recommended to additionally use a metal structure made of corner profiles and plates, installed directly along the perimeter of the passage made. All parts are fastened together with bolts, as well as by welding. After that, you can proceed to the decoration and installation of the box.

Before proceeding with the redevelopment of such a scale, be sure to consult with specialists and obtain the appropriate permission. You may miss important details that will later affect the stability of the house as a whole. Don't risk safety for bold design ideas.