How to bypass a doorway with heating pipes. We make a two-pipe heating system for a private house with our own hands. If the boiler you bought is too powerful

29.10.2019

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1 Design and features of a one-pipe system
1.1 Benefits
1.2 Disadvantages
2 Planning
3 Installation
4 Videos

Having built a house, many people begin to think about how to heat it. It’s worth noting right away that this approach is fundamentally wrong, since this should have been taken care of at the planning stage. This is due to the fact that if you want to install a single-pipe heating system using polypropylene pipes, it will not be so easy, and you may have to destroy what has already been done. This concerns not only making holes in the walls, but also gating the floor, since it is quite understandable to want to make the home not only warm, but also beautiful, by laying the pipes in such a way that they do not spoil the design of the heated room.

Design and features of a one-pipe system

Single pipe system

The peculiarity of a single-pipe heating system is that a pipe runs from the boiler, the other end of which again comes to the boiler. Heating radiators are connected to it without breaking the line.

Such heating systems can be:

horizontal (flow);
with top wiring (vertical).

Both systems can be either closed or open.

Radiator thermostat The classic (most often used) is horizontal pipe routing. To upgrade any battery you can purchase:

radiator regulator;

Ball Valves;

thermostatic valve, etc.

As mentioned at the beginning of the article, one of the advantages of a single-pipe system is the ability to hide communications in the floor. This is an important factor, because now few people hide heating radiators behind curtains, and this is not practical, since air circulation near the radiators is disrupted, as a result of which it is necessary to raise the temperature on the boiler, and this leads to unnecessary fuel consumption.

If the assembled system does not have a counter-slope or differences in height, then it can operate without a pump.

Read also Combined heating systems: building systems using different types of fuel

Advantages

Installation of a one-pipe system is carried out with a smaller number of pipes (30-40%).

A simple wiring diagram that can be installed by a non-specialist.

Compared to a two-pipe heating system, installation of a single-pipe heating system is faster.

The system can be installed both in a one-story house and in a house with several floors.

There are no problems with how to get around the doorway when installing pipes.

Flaws

Mayevsky crane installed

Having talked about the advantages, we need to mention the disadvantages.

Each battery must be equipped with a Mayevsky valve or an automatic system for bleeding air from the system.

Uneven distribution of coolant - more cooled water comes to each subsequent battery, so the efficiency of the last radiator will be low. The situation can be improved by installing a circulation pump in the system.

Planning

Not every person can use computer programs to model a 3D projection of their home, which would undoubtedly be very convenient. Taking this nuance into account, let's look at how to make a plan manually, writing everything out on a piece of paper.

When drawing up a diagram, you need to take into account the peculiarity of installing a system made of polypropylene pipes - it is impossible to make smooth turns in it.

When making a drawing, you need to take into account that the pipeline must be laid with a slight slope - at least 0.5 cm per 1 running meter of pipe, otherwise it will not work without a pump.
We decide on the installation location of the boiler.
If for some reason the pipes cannot be hidden in the floor, then you will have to carry out external installation or partially hide the pipes in the floor - in the place of greatest depression.
On the diagram we mark the installation locations of the batteries, noting what power they should be.

It is important to choose the height of the battery and the number of sections

When determining how many sections are needed for a room, you need to take into account that each subsequent battery heats less efficiently, so you need to increase the number of sections of stacked batteries (or the area if the radiators are steel).

If taps, a heat regulator, etc. are installed, this should also be reflected in the diagram.
Having a complete picture, you can calculate how many pipes, fittings and those elements that are planned for completion will be required.

Read also Tiling stair steps

Soldering polypropylene pipes

To install the heating system discussed in this article, you will not need many tools. This:

soldering iron for installing plastic pipes;
scissors for cutting plastic pipes;
shaver (if pipes with external reinforcement are purchased).

All-polymer products are only suitable for water supply. It is necessary to purchase reinforced pipes, the characteristics of which allow them to be used for heating. It is best if basalt fiber or aluminum foil is used as a reinforcing layer - in this case, the elongation coefficient of the pipe is reduced threefold, in contrast to products with fiberglass.

Trying on the battery

The first step is to mark the walls for each battery. They need to be installed under each window - this will prevent cold air from flowing onto the floor. For the battery to fully fulfill its role, its length must be at least 70% of the width of the window opening. It is also important to maintain distance:

From the window sill - 10-12 cm.
From the wall - 3-5 cm.
From the floor - 8-12 cm.

When purchasing batteries, you must take these requirements into account.

You can read about how to find out how many battery sections you need to install for one room in the article about bimetallic radiators.

Using horizontal markings, you need to mark the places where the fasteners will be installed with such a distance that the installed fasteners are located between the sections of the installed battery.

Using a hammer drill, holes are drilled in the wall into which we install fasteners.
Now you need to prepare the batteries. If they are covered with film from the factory, then there is no need to remove it yet.
Sticking to the plan, we install air vents, thermostats and ball valves.
We hang the batteries in their places and use a building level to check their horizontal position.
Next, the pipes are soldered. It is important not to forget that it is necessary to respect the slope of the main highway.
It is better to install a bypass with a pump on the return line in front of the boiler.
It is imperative to install an expansion tank and a block with safety group elements.
It is not necessary to fill a single-pipe heating system with water from the bottom point, since each radiator will still contain air that needs to be vented. If an automatic air vent system is installed, then they will cope with this task themselves.

By ordering installation work from the Thermodynamics company, you will definitely receive an additional discount on equipment and materials.

It is advisable to think through the heating system during the construction of the house. It is necessary to provide niches for risers in advance, and if necessary, a separate room for the boiler room. But even if the house has already been built, you can find a way out of any situation, especially since modern technologies allow this. To begin installing the heating system, the house must have a roof and windows. Pipes can be laid with hidden wiring, for example, mounted in the floor, in screeds specially designed for this purpose. If it is not possible to do this, then you will have to lay it in the walls. It is more advisable to install the heating when the walls are already plastered, but the screed has not yet been poured, so that after installing the radiators you do not have to pick at the plaster and adjust the terminals. You can carry out installation in this way - first make pipe leads with a reserve, and after plastering the walls, hang and connect the radiators. But this method takes longer. For maximum accuracy, it is better to follow the following technology. First of all, you need to hang all the radiators, but you do not need to remove the film from them until the heating system is started. If the exits to the radiators will pass from the wall, then it is necessary to mark the boundaries of the grooves, remove the radiator and groove places for the pipes. When everything is ready, you need to hang the radiators back, route the heating pipes and connect them to the radiators. It is better to cover the places where the eyeliner comes out of the wall with alabaster. When the solution has hardened, the radiators can be removed and placed away from the place where the finishing work will take place, otherwise even a film will not save them from damage and dust. If the finishing work in the house is completed, there is still the option of installing hidden wiring. Heating pipes can be laid along the walls, below, in boxes specially designed for them. In professional language, this installation of pipes is called “plinth wiring.” You can pay money and turn to Western pipe manufacturers - you can buy a ready-made “plinth wiring” system from them, with all the materials and well-thought-out components. But, if you don’t want to pay extra money, you can do this wiring yourself. By the way, you can use plastic ones as boxes. These are often used to hide electrical wires. If the heating system of your home uses triple wiring, it is better to lay the pipes along the walls, but at the same time step back 10-15 cm so as not to spoil them when you nail the baseboards. In the last century, heating systems had slopes towards the taps for drainage. Currently, the designs of modern systems do not allow this to be achieved, and there is no point in doing so. But the main point that needs to be taken into account when laying is that there should be no large “humps” in the pipes, that is, you need to make sure that over time air pockets do not appear in the heating system. If this problem cannot be avoided, there is a way out - you need to install an automatic air vent at the top point. To go around a doorway with pipes, it is advisable to run them along the floor rather than lay them around the entire opening along the top, thereby creating a large loop. It is not advisable to install a heating system in cold rooms. As a rule, manufacturers of polymer pipes warn that you should not install them at temperatures below 7 degrees. The fragility of metal-plastic pipes increases when working at low temperatures, the welding of polypropylene pipes deteriorates, and it is not worth soldering copper pipes at all - the low temperature is felt quite strongly. Therefore, it is worth thinking in advance and calculating the installation so that the system is launched before the cold weather begins.

Heating installation in a private house begins after installing the roofing and installing windows and doors.

In modern construction, increased demands are placed on the aesthetics of premises, which in relation to heating systems require the installation of heating system communications hidden from view. The pipes are “hidden” in wall grooves or in the floor screed, which is more convenient. If it is not possible to install heating lines in the floor screed (for example, the floor may be wooden), they are installed in the walls.

Blitz conclusion! Installation of home heating is necessary, or rather convenient, to be carried out at the stage of plastered walls, but without a concrete floor screed.

Installation of heating radiators

“Accurate” installation of heating radiators is best done on an already plastered surface, which will avoid their incorrect installation relative to the wall surface.

The optimal option for installing heating radiators may be:

A radiator is hung on a plastered wall.
When laying pipes hidden in the walls, the boundaries of the grooves are outlined.
The radiators are removed from the hangers and “moved” to a sufficiently large distance from the work site. Agree that extra scratches and abrasions on radiators will not add value to them!
Grooves are cut in the walls for laying the pipeline.
The radiators are hung in their places, and then the heating pipes are laid out and connected to the radiators.
The pipes are fixed in grooves at the points where they exit the wall with alabaster or cement mortar.
After the solution hardens, the radiators are again disconnected from the system, removed and taken to a storage location that is “safe” for their appearance.

Installation of the heating system of a country house “on top” of finishing work can also be done in a hidden way. For this purpose, boxes are used, fixed along the baseboard at the bottom of the walls. In the absence of specialized structural elements for hidden installation of heating in a private house, you can use a regular plastic box for electrical work of a suitable cross-section.

Attention! When installing heating systems, it is necessary to ensure that the system does not form high raised “slides” in which air can accumulate, preventing the coolant from passing through the system. For example, when a heating system pipeline bypasses a door opening, it must be done in the floor, and not create an additional huge loop above the top point of the doorway.

If such “humps” are forced to “emerge,” it is necessary to install automatic air valves at their highest points.

Installation of the heating system of a private house must be carried out in warm rooms, since in the technical documentation of most polymer pipes the manufacturer declares an operating “installation” temperature of >+5 O C. Operating at lower temperatures leads to an increase in the fragility of the pipe material, reducing the efficiency of welding polypropylene pipe systems heating and soldering of copper pipes.

Important! The optimal time for installing heating in a private house should ensure that the system can be put into operation before the onset of frost.

Pipe routing when installing heating in a private house

Since currently heating systems for private houses with forced circulation of coolant in them are predominantly used, in this section, in order not to get too scattered, we will focus on a closed two-pipe heating system with forced circulation.

Methods for arranging pipes when connecting heating radiators to the boiler:

beam circuit (collector version);
tee circuit;
mixed (combined scheme.

Installation of heating in a private house with radial (collector) wiring involves connecting each heating radiator to a pair of collectors with separate pipes: supply and return. Each collector, in turn, is connected to the boiler (or other collector) by a pair of pipes: supply and return.

Installing heating with a collector group gives the heating system some positive and negative qualities:

the possibility of differentiated regulation of the degree of heating of each radiator or group of radiators;
lack of connections in the floor and walls (a solid pipe is used from the collector to the radiator);
it is necessary to allocate space for installation of the manifold cabinet;
correct installation of the manifold group above the level of the main pipelines, which usually run in the floor, allows you to install air valves on the manifolds;
significantly increasing cost compared to other installation schemes.

Installation of heating and water supply systems using a tee method involves parallel connection of radiators to the supply and return pipes, which usually run just above the baseboard along the walls. If such “main” pipes are of a significant length, it should be possible to install pipes of larger diameter at the beginning of the system (from the riser).

“Tee” or parallel installation diagram of heating system radiators

In this article we will consider the design of a heating system if Tichelman scheme(passing-overlapping), which was already mentioned in one of the previous articles. A separate article is devoted to this scheme because of its (the scheme, not the article) advantages.

Wiring device according to the Tichelman scheme

Let me remind you: Tichelman’s scheme looks something like this:

The main advantages of the Tichelman scheme: versatility, good adjustability (each radiator can be adjusted separately).

All radiators operate under almost the same conditions in terms of coolant flow and pressure drop; with equal surface areas, they also have equal heat transfer.

Despite the apparent complexity, this complexity is... just apparent. You just need to practice drawing such diagrams on plans a little.

How to bypass the door when installing a heating system according to the Tichelman scheme?

What should you do if you encounter any obstacles during installation according to the Tichelman scheme? For example, a door:

And not only when installing a pipeline according to the Tichelman scheme, but also according to any other scheme.

There are several options.

Simplest:

Here the door is fitted with a pipe on top.

Important! An automatic air vent must be installed in the area above the door to prevent air from accumulating.

Minus: the appearance of the room will be the same; especially if this is a living room and not a hallway. Yes, the automatic air vent tends to leak from time to time, which is also not pleasant.

Another variant:

We pass under the door. That is, the pipe goes below the floor level. Is there such a possibility? Not always: maybe the floor is already done, or maybe there’s such a screed that you can’t go further...

“Normal heroes always take a detour...” So we can go around the room in the opposite direction:

Why not?

Tichelman scheme for piping radiators on two floors

This option is shown in the figure:

Moreover, here not each floor individually is connected according to the Tichelman scheme, but the entire system. The main pipes (supply and return) are metal-plastic with a diameter of 20 mm, the radiators are connected to them with a 16 mm pipe.

Tichelman scheme for piping radiators on three floors

Let's look at the picture:

Here, too, not each floor has its own piping, but one piping made according to Tichelman’s scheme for all three floors at the same time. The risers are made, for example, with a metal-plastic pipe with a diameter of 26 mm, the supply and return on the floors with a diameter of 20 mm, and the outlets to the radiators with a 16 mm pipe.

But still! If possible, it is better to connect each floor separately and with its own pump, otherwise, if there is only one pump for all floors, then if the pump fails, there will be no heating on all floors at once.

So, let's draw conclusions.

The Tichelman scheme has advantages over other radiator piping schemes: 1) versatility (suitable for any room, layout, etc., including large areas); 2) all radiators heat up evenly. Despite the external complexity, mastering the installation of heating using this scheme is quite accessible. Just read again about the diameters of the pipes for such wiring. And - use it. Good luck.

Tichelman scheme