How to Warm Your Roof and Gutters with an Anti-Ice System. Heating connection diagram for the roof and gutters Technology for installing a heating cable on the roof
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Conventional underfloor heating fasteners are not suitable for use on roofs and gutters.
When do you plan to install a cable anti-icing system in full height the question arises:
And here there are two possible ways:How and with what to attach the heating cable to the roof?
First: Use branded fasteners for the heating cable offered by a well-known manufacturer.
Advantages:
- a wide range of,
- looks beautiful,
- there is an album typical units,
- You can choose fasteners even to match the color of the roof
But there are also several significant disadvantages:
- not available in the required quantity (something is missing);
- It is more difficult to complete an object and calculate the number of elements in the estimate.
- some items are supplied not individually, but in packs of 50-100 pieces
- The on-site installer must install fasteners strictly in accordance with the diagram.
A step to the right, a step to the left is fraught with the fact that later there will simply not be enough fasteners
Then there is a second way: Use universal fasteners for heating cable which is in stock.What if you need to leave for installation tomorrow?
Let's talk about the shortcomings:
- not so handsome
- no color choice
- you will have to work a little more with your hands directly on the spot
- always in stock
- and is inexpensive
Universal fasteners are several standardized special mounting tapes and fasteners suitable for heating cables of ANY brand.
Mounting tape type PVA
Mounting tape PVA 12x0.75, also known as figure eight.
Made of galvanized steel. It can be bent by hand, has smooth edges without burrs (otherwise you can cut yourself).
Used to create point fastenings.
It is cut into small pieces and riveted to the steel roofing with Ø5 blind rivets.
In what areas is it used: drip line, funnel, valley, roof edge.
Mounting tape type 2.11
Thicker than regular mounting tape. Has the appropriate antenna size for self-regulating cables. Made of galvanized steel.
Has smooth edges without burrs. Rigid enough to hold its shape, but at the same time it can still be bent by hand without special tools.
Mainly used for installing heating cables in inclined and suspended gutters and drainage trays.
This tape can also be used to create point fastenings.
Segments mounting tape secured with Ø5 rivets.
You can also attach it to plastic parts of the drain using self-tapping screws.
On a flat roof with a built-up coating, you can apply the mounting tape using emphymastics.
Double mounting tape type KBI-DUAL-ST
Galvanized tape 50 mm wide intended for installation of a heating cable inside drainpipes in 1-2 threads.
This is the most reliable option for installing a resistive heating cable in this area.
Compared to cable suspension, it does not allow the heating sections to twist with a screw.
Distributes thermal energy from the cable along its surface, which has a positive effect on the fault tolerance of the system.
Fastening element type KBI-RC-ST
Material - galvanized steel.
It is used if drilling into the roofing is impossible or impractical.
Due to the flat sole with holes, it is reliably glued using emphymastics.
Main areas: roof edge, valleys.
Accumulation of snow on the roof of a house, icing of gutters and the formation of icicles - these weather factors not only damage the roof, but also create a danger for people below. Of course, you can throw off the snow cover immediately after it falls and knock down ice blocks with a long pole, but who can guarantee that the roof and gutters will not be damaged in this way, and that a falling icicle will not cause harm to health or property. But there are very effective method eliminate all these phenomena in one fell swoop. An anti-icing system, which you can install yourself, will melt the snow in time and prevent ice from forming in the most critical areas.
Roof and gutter heating: how it works
The roof and gutters are safe and can perform their functions normally until the air temperature reaches negative values. After this, the process of water crystallization begins, which is accompanied by negative phenomena:
- Ice forms on the surface of gutters and pipes, which reduces their throughput and prevents the removal of sediment and melt water from the roof;
- the transition of a liquid into a solid state is accompanied by an increase in volume, which can lead to damage to the roof and drainage main;
- deterioration in the efficiency of gutters and, as a result, accumulation of water on the roof, causing leaks during active snow melting;
- the formation of plugs in pipes leads to the fact that water begins to flow down the walls and foundation, worsening appearance structure and contributing to its destruction.
To ensure that the sediment removal system works successfully even in the most severe frost, electric heaters are installed in the most critical places. They prevent the accumulation of snow and the appearance of an ice crust, helping to reduce the mechanical load on the roof and preventing blockages in the path of melt water.
The main function of a de-icing system is to prevent snow and ice from accumulating on potentially hazardous areas of the roof.
Most often, the following elements of drains are equipped with heating cables:
- snow retainers;
- collection trays and funnels;
- gutters;
- vertical pipes.
In addition, wastewater collection areas near storm drains, as well as trays and other elements of the drainage system, are equipped with electric heating.
Neither mechanical nor chemical methods for removing ice and snow can compare with an automatic cable anti-icing system. The first forces the use of human resources and special equipment, besides, cleaning with shovels and ice picks is unsafe for the roof and gutters. The second requires the application of special expensive emulsions to the roof, which must be periodically updated.
Anti-icing system design
The principle of heating roofs and gutters is in many ways similar to the functioning of heated floors. The main element of the electrical anti-icing system is the heating circuit, which includes one or more sections of the heating cable, as well as fastening and insulating elements for its installation. The functionality of electric heaters is ensured by power and signal cables, as well as a variety of switching and switching devices. To control heating, a thermostat, temperature and humidity sensors, a time relay and protection (safety) equipment are used. The anti-icing system can be turned on in simple or smart mode, which provides synchronization with a weather station.
Automatic operation of the heating system for roofs and gutters is possible thanks to a control unit (thermostat or weather station) and sensors that monitor the state of the environment
Operating principle
The operation of the heating circuit is simple and reliable. The heaters are turned on based on signals from temperature and humidity sensors, which are installed in shaded areas and the highest points of drains. When the air temperature drops below the set value, the temperature sensor will give a command to turn on the heaters. However, voltage will be supplied to the cable only if the humidity sensor is in a certain state. Heating will turn on only at low humidity values, indicating freezing of the liquid. The power supply will stop when the alarm sensor is in the water. Such an algorithm prevents the system from running idle and contributes to its efficiency.
The functionality of anti-ice systems is ensured by a heating cable, which is laid along the edge of the roof, in gutters and other places where snow and ice may accumulate.
The design of flexible cable elements makes it possible to heat roofs of the most complex configurations. The design of the anti-icing system depends on climatic features region, cable type and degree of roof insulation.
Types of heating cables, their advantages and disadvantages
To set up a reliable anti-icing system, two types of heating cables are used:
- resistive;
- self-regulating.
Resistance heater
Heating of this type of cable occurs due to ohmic losses in the core, which has high resistance.
Depending on the design, a resistive cable may have one or two heating cores
The heat generation of modern resistive heaters is up to 30 W/m, and the temperature can reach 250 °C. The section clearly shows the internal structure of the cable - a metal conductor, an insulation layer, a copper braid and a protective sheath. In addition, there is a type of two-core cables with an additional conductive element. Thanks to it, the connection can be made from one end. This greatly simplifies installation and reduces the cost of work by reducing the length of power circuits.
The advantages of heaters of this type include:
- simplicity of design;
- stability of characteristics;
- elasticity;
- high specific heat release;
- relatively low cost.
The disadvantages of cables operating on the principle of resistive heating are:
- difficult installation of the system due to the need to use contours of a strictly specified length;
- the presence of a “cold” and “hot” end, which causes thermal stresses;
- possibility of local overheating with reduced heat removal efficiency. For the same reason, cable overlap is not allowed;
- limited maintainability: if the heater burns out, the section cannot be restored.
Since the power of a resistive element does not depend on external conditions, when using this type of cable it is necessary correct calculation, otherwise it will be difficult to avoid unnecessary energy costs.
A resistive cable can be connected from one or both ends - it all depends on the number of heating cores
Self-regulating heating element
A self-regulating cable consists of current-carrying conductors placed in a medium made of special plastic. The presence of graphite grains in its composition turns the system into a long chain with many parallel variable resistances. The conductivity of the internal filler changes depending on the temperature, which ensures regulation of the heater power - as the temperature drops, the cable will generate more heat.
Self-regulating cable is a high-tech electric heater
Advantages of self-regulating cables:
- high efficiency;
- simplified installation - the heater can be cut into sections of any length;
- impossibility of local overheating even in places where the heater overlaps, as well as in case of mechanical damage;
- heat release, which varies along the length of the section depending on external conditions;
- increased security.
The disadvantages of self-regulating elements include their higher cost, which, however, is compensated during their operation.
The most efficient systems Anti-icing is achieved using both types of heaters. Resistive cable, as having a higher power density, is recommended to be installed on flat areas of the roof, and self-regulating cable - in gutters, funnels and drainpipes.
Heating system design
Designing a snow melting system includes choosing heating locations, calculating required power cables, as well as drawing up drawings, diagrams or sketches. The documentation must contain information about the type and number of heaters for each zone, sensor installation locations and electrical connections.
Selecting heating zones
At the first stage, roof drawings are studied, with the help of which the number and type of heated zones are determined. Experts recommend including the following places in the snow melting system:
- Joints of adjacent slopes (valley). The cable is laid in the form of a long loop, which covers from 1/3 to 2/3 of the height of the groove in its lower part. The bending width depends on the power density of the cable and ranges from 10 to 40 cm.
The joints of adjacent roof slopes are equipped with a heating cable laid at 2/3 of their height
- Roof eaves with gentle slopes. If the roof has a slope of up to 30 degrees, then the cable is laid in a zigzag at the bottom of the slope, covering the entire cornice and a 30-centimeter section above the projection of the building wall. If the roof angle is less than 12 degrees, then the areas adjacent to the funnels are equipped with heating.
Next to the funnels, the heating cable is laid on an area of 1 square meter. m
- Drainpipes. The heater is placed in a riser, constructing a loop that is attached to its walls. When draining into a storm drain, the loop is made longer, taking into account the depth of soil freezing.
To heat trays and drainpipes, the heating cable is laid in two parallel lines
- Funnels. On flat areas of the roof, the cable is mounted so that it covers an area up to 0.5 m wide and is inserted into the water distributor below the level of the attic floor. For funnels that are equipped with risers, additional heating is not required, since the heating of the gutter will be sufficient.
- To heat junctions and parapets, one section of cable laid along the structure will be sufficient.
Various ways of laying out cable heaters can make protection from snow and ice more effective
- Trays and gutters require laying two parallel lines along the bottom of the water distribution elements.
- Flat roof water jets. The heater is mounted along the bottom and within a radius of up to 0.5 m from their entrance opening.
In addition, the heating cable is laid around the perimeter skylights, in the meter zone around the catchment basins, as well as along the path of water outflow. To ensure the functionality of the storm sewer system, it is necessary to consider heating the main line right up to the sewer.
Not only the roof and gutters are equipped with heating, but also drainage areas, as well as elements of the drainage system
Roof slopes with a slope of more than 45 degrees do not require the installation of heaters, since snow melts off their surface naturally. However, to ensure the functionality of the drainage system, all its elements should be equipped with a heating cable in accordance with the rules stated above.
Calculation of required power
The power of the heating cable is calculated based on the area of the individual zones that require installation of a snow melting system. To calculate this value, we are guided by data obtained in practice:
- in drainpipes with a diameter of less than 100 mm - 28 W/m. The same applies to equipping trays up to 100 mm wide;
- in drainpipes with a diameter of more than 100 mm - 36 W/m. The same value for laying in trays wider than 100 mm;
- in valleys - from 250 to 300 W/sq. m (it is recommended to lay up to 2/3 of the height at the bottom of the joint);
- along gutters - from 200 to 300 W/sq. m;
- on drip edges and along eaves - from 180 to 250 W/sq. m.
On flat surfaces, install the cable in a zigzag pattern, not exceeding the bend radius recommended by the manufacturer. Using the laying diagram, the length of the cable is determined and, based on the data obtained, the total power of the snow melting system is calculated.
Before installation, you need a detailed drawing indicating the heating locations and the method of laying the heating cable
Installation of switching devices
To monitor and control the heating system for roofs and gutters, unified modules are used, the design of which provides for the connection of a power wire, heaters, as well as temperature and humidity sensors. The control unit is mounted in a place convenient for monitoring and control. Signal sensors are installed taking into account the need for their inspection and maintenance.
The anti-ice system is monitored and controlled using a variety of sensors connected to an electronic thermostat or weather station
Installation procedure for the anti-icing system
After completing all the necessary calculations, proceed to preparatory activities, collect necessary tool and purchase materials and equipment. After this, the installation of the anti-ice system begins.
Preparatory stage
Foundation preparation includes removing inoperative elements of the old snow melting system, if one was previously installed. Places where the heating cable is laid are cleared of accumulated debris and dirt. In addition, the roof is inspected to identify objects and sharp edges that pose a risk of cable damage.
Installation work
Assembling the heating system begins with attaching the electronic module. It is best to use a separate control cabinet for its installation. Installation of other structural elements is carried out in the following sequence:
- Install signal sensors. The temperature sensor should be mounted in a place out of direct sunlight and away from heating, ventilation and air conditioning systems. The precipitation sensor is mounted on open area roofs. Humidity sensors are mounted in areas that are first exposed to melt water.
Alarm sensors are installed in such a way as to ensure their clear and timely response
- Lay power and signal cables. Nylon ties and plastic clips are used to secure them. After installation, the conductors should be ringed, and the insulation resistance in the power lines should be additionally measured.
- Heating cables are laid. To fix them, use brackets, metal clamps and overlays provided by the manufacturer. You can also use perforated mounting tape, provided that the heater shells are not damaged. When laying, it is necessary to exclude the possibility of free sagging of heating lines in the air.
To secure the heating cable, you can use a special perforated tape
- The ends of the cables are inserted into distribution boxes, the resistance and the absence of insulation breakdown in each section are measured. Minimum value, which the megohmmeter should show, is 10 Mohm/m.
For installation and fastening of the heating cable in drains longer than 3 m, a metal cable is used
A number of operations, such as winding an additional layer of insulation in places where the clamps are installed, sealing the ends electric heaters, signal and power cables, etc., can be performed on the ground or indoors. This will reduce the risk of damage to the roof during installation activities.
- Make electrical connections of heating, power and signal cables to each other and to the control unit. The heating sections and control cabinet are grounded.
Heating cables are connected in strict accordance with the switching and protection diagram
- At a suitable outside temperature, switch on anti-icing system for 1 hour, after which the current consumed by each section is measured. In case of deviation from the nominal values, the causes of the problems are identified and eliminated. To check the performance of water and precipitation sensors under clear skies, it is allowed to water them.
Video: Animated instructions for installing a heating cable
According to SNiP 3.05.06–85, which regulates the installation and operation of electrical devices, installation of heating cables can be carried out at an outdoor temperature of at least minus 15 °C. The installation of heaters must be completed before the first snow falls and ice forms on the roof. The best time for installation can be considered the last weeks of autumn. If, for any reason, the work was delayed until snow caps and ice plugs appeared on the roof and in the gutters, then careful cleaning of the cable installation sites from precipitation will be required.
Installing an anti-icing system is associated with risk, so working without insurance is prohibited
Selection of control and protection equipment
The heating cables are turned on and off within the specified temperature limits and in accordance with the state of the humidity and precipitation sensors at the command of the monitoring and control module. Depending on the complexity and functionality, these devices are divided into two types:
Of course, the first option, due to its design simplicity, costs several times less than the second. Despite this, use it in regions with high humidity is not recommended, since in this case there is a risk of incorrect interpretation of the temperature sensor data. As a result, instead of timely melting of snow, ice deposits may accumulate on the roof.
Weather station of the anti-ice installation and its connection diagram
The weather station does not have these disadvantages, but has more complex design, and therefore less reliable. Nevertheless, choosing this option will allow you to build a snow melting system that can operate automatically and save energy due to more sensitive control.
To protect system elements in case of excess load current or short circuit, install circuit breaker. In addition, they use a protective shutdown device that monitors current leakage through the insulation and, if it occurs, can de-energize the entire system or turn off individual sectors of the heaters.
Reliable, durable operation of the anti-icing system is guaranteed not only by correctly performed installation, but also by regular, timely maintenance. Here are a few operating rules that contribute to trouble-free operation of the equipment:
- At the beginning of each season, namely after the leaves have fallen from the trees, the roof and gutters are cleaned of debris and dirt. To avoid damaging cables and sensors, clean with soft brushes. In places heavy pollution use water.
- The system is turned on in the outside temperature range from -15 to +5 °C.
- Once every three months, an inspection and preventive maintenance is carried out, which includes tightening threaded connections and restoring damaged insulation. In addition, the functionality of the residual current device is checked.
- To protect cables from mechanical damage in places where snow and ice may collapse, barrier structures are installed.
In conclusion, I would like to give advice: do not allow anyone to carry out installation and maintenance work on the circuit. random people. Only qualified workers who have undergone specialized training know how to handle such a delicate and sensitive system.
Video: how to make a snow melting system with your own hands
With the appropriate knowledge and minimal skills, installing an anti-icing system is not difficult. At the same time, working at height requires utmost attention and composure. In addition, we recommend that you refresh your memory of safety regulations when working with high voltage and strictly follow them during installation and operation of the equipment.
The article provides information on the correct choice of a reliable roof and gutter heating system for your home or cottage. After reading the article, you will receive a lot of useful and important information, which will be useful during the construction process and will help you ask the right questions when ordering roof heating. V construction company and you will definitely do it right choice, based on the tips and tricks received in my article.
The roof heating system helps protect the roof from the elements in winter
Roof heating and its functions
Now this innovation is just coming into widespread use. Many people neglect roof de-icing work because they are afraid of wasting energy and Money to create the system itself. However, it is worth considering that such an approach can lead to accelerated failure. roofing pie. This will entail unscheduled repairs, and, consequently, unnecessary financial costs. Let's figure out how roof heating protects the roof.
So, the use of this system allows you to get rid of systematic ice, which causes significant damage to the structure, violating its waterproofing. By the way, you shouldn’t hope that timely cleaning will solve the problem. It will not cope with all the moisture that accumulates on the roof and gutters. In addition, when heating the roof, you get rid of falling icicles and snow, thereby increasing safety.
There are other ways to combat icing. For example, installing a special attic ventilation system or treating the roof with anti-icing emulsions. However, all these methods are imperfect, require constant financial costs and take a lot of your time, and also lower the temperature inside the building. That's why the best option– this is the correct heating of the roof.
Installing an icing channel will help get rid of many problems
What is a roof heating system
It is called differently: snow melting system, heating system or anti-ice. This device consists of large quantity sensors, wires, actuating and control instruments, as well as heating elements. This complex prevents the formation of icing on the roof surface and prevents excess snow from accumulating.
It is not necessary to heat the entire surface of the roof, therefore, to install heaters, certain places are selected that are most susceptible to the accumulation of ice and snow, as well as places that can allow moisture to pass into the roofing pie. So the system must necessarily cover the edges of the slopes and the surface of the valley, as well as cover the entire length of the gutters.
Important! The roof heating system must be located below the snow guards. Firstly, this will allow you to avoid wasting too much electricity on heating areas of the roof that do not require it. Secondly, the melting of the snow cap on the roof increases the thermal conductivity of the roofing pie, which entails accelerated heat loss.
It is also convenient that the cables can be installed after construction at any free time, because the system is most often located on the surface of the roofing material.
The roof heating cable can be installed at any time
If the roof heating system of your house is done correctly and competently, then you can forget about snow falling from the roof. This device also eases the load on rafter system, which contributes to greater durability of the roofing pie. Additionally, you will receive good gutter protection. After all, there are often cases when it cracks due to the frozen water accumulated inside.
By the way, the anti-icing system saves home owners from regular manual cleaning of the roofing material.
carrying out roofing works of any complexity on a turnkey basis. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.
How does a roof heating system work?
Let's figure out what basic elements are part of the system and how they should be located.
Approximate laying diagram heating system on the roof
The entire complex of heating equipment usually consists of three main components.
The heating unit includes a network of single or double heating wires. Also at this point it is worth pointing out that a special film can also be used as a heating element. It is important that the heating elements meet certain requirements. They must be adapted to sudden changes in temperature, as well as power surges. The system must also be resistant to excess moisture. If you plan to walk on the roof, then resistance to mechanical damage – mandatory requirements to the heating block.
The information and distribution unit is designed to control the transfer of electricity from the network to the heaters. This part of the system provides information in the form of sensor readings and powers all components of the anti-icing complex. It is better to install all sensors and elements of this unit in places where moisture does not enter. For example, in the attic or under the roof overhang.
The control unit includes thermostats, weather sensors, as well as devices that allow you to manually change the roof temperature and power supply. An option with a self-regulating control system is possible. Here there is no need to constantly regulate the operation of the heating complex, and the necessary changes are introduced automatically. In this case, the mini-computer makes decisions based on weather sensor readings.
The icing cable is also laid in the drainage channel
On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of completing the construction of unfinished houses. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.
How to choose the right heating system
Such systems differ primarily in the type of heating element. Options using cable or film heaters are possible. The second method has much in common with the “warm floor” system. The important difference is that the film should be located inside the roofing pie, because it is not designed for heavy loads and is poorly adapted to mechanical damage. But the cable, on the contrary, may be on the surface of the roofing material. But the wire can also be laid inside. This is usually used when installing a heating system flat roofs, and also during the construction of high-rise buildings. Only cable is used to heat gutters and pipes.
The cable is used for external roof heating
Characteristics of different types of heating elements:
This is a matrix with polymer insulation and two wire cores inside. This also includes metal braiding and additional layer insulating material. If it gets warmer outside, then the number of conductive paths inside the matrix decreases and, as a result, the temperature of the heater decreases. This type of heater has many advantages. Firstly, cable installation is quick and does not require much experience. Secondly, the matrix itself is resistant to overlaps and spot heating, thanks to the temperature self-regulation system. Thirdly, such a cable can be used in combination with absolutely any roofing materials. An important advantage is that the system selects optimal temperature and thereby prevents the consumption of excess electricity. It is possible to install such heaters without the use of weather sensors, and you can also heat gutters using a self-regulating cable.
Self-regulating wire is the easiest to install on the roof
Resistive wire
Heating occurs due to the resistance of the conductor. Such a cable can be two-core or single-core. The insulation is made from a layer of polymer, and more quality models A nichrome core is used. When installing such a cable, you need to pay attention to the fact that both the beginning and the end of each wire must necessarily converge at one point. There is one rather serious disadvantage of such a heating system: in the event of a single point damage, the entire anti-icing complex fails. Installation is inconvenient because the resistive cable cannot be cut. This method is suitable for heating large areas roofs.
The resistive system is more complex, it is better to entrust it to an experienced technician
Film heater
It is a flexible film with cores made of carbon conductor. Such material heats its entire surface, since conductive strips are located frequently over the entire area of the heater. It is very convenient to transport and store, because this film is sold in small rolls. This material is attached only under the roofing, so it can only be used in case of roof reconstruction or during the construction process. The installation of such a heater should be entrusted to specialists. If local damage occurs, the heating system does not fail, but loses efficiency. During the repair process, it is always possible to replace the damaged section of the film heater. I would like to note that the film is very safe, it does not spontaneously ignite. Uniform heating of the surface provides good energy savings.
The film heater is mounted on the inside of the roof
When choosing materials, you should pay attention to their cost. It is most expensive to use a film heater. A self-regulating cable costs a little less, and the most budget option is a resistive wire. But I would like to note that roof heating using a self-regulating cable is more economical and will provide good benefits in the future. Also note that installation of an anti-icing system on the roof surface is possible only with snow guards. Otherwise, the entire network will simply be torn down during heavy snowfall. Various improvements and options make the entire complex more expensive, but the choice is always yours. Remember what to order heating system for the roof should be based on the characteristics of your roof.
The heating system is selected based on the type and characteristics of the roof
Installation of a roof heating system
First you need to figure out which area of the roof requires heating. As already mentioned, these are valleys, overhangs and places where large amounts of snow and ice accumulate, as well as gutters. It is worth noting that the benefit from partial heating of areas that need it is significantly lower than from heating the roof on all problem areas. Once you have decided on the area that needs to be heated, you need to calculate the required amount of materials and purchase them.
So, after all materials have been selected and purchased, installation can begin. Below you will find information on how to correctly install the entire system.
Experienced hands will not make mistakes when installing a cable roof heating system
The first step is to completely clean the entire surface of the roof, as well as the gutters, of debris or leaves. Next, the fastening tape is installed in the required places. The next stage is installation of the junction box. It is worth bringing and securing the “cold” end of the cable, previously threaded into the corrugated tube. After completing this procedure, you should lay out the cable inside the gutters, securing it with the tendrils of the fastening tape. Now you need to secure the wire inside the drainpipe. To do this, the cable is attached to a circuit, for example, plastic ties, and this whole system is threaded into a pipe. After this, it is worth securing the upper segment. The bottom edge can be secured using metal ties. Next, you need to lay the loops over the surface of the roof and secure them using the tape's tendrils. If the roof slopes are too steep, then it would be better to add plastic ties. Now you can install weather sensors. They should be placed on north side buildings next to the distribution box. The next step is to check the entire wiring system. The quality of the system can be determined by measuring the resistance in the circuit and comparing the readings obtained with the data specified in the product data sheet. All that remains is to secure the control panel inside the room. After installation is complete, you need to measure the system temperature to compare it with the data you entered.
Roof heating system structure
Video description
You can familiarize yourself with the installation procedure for heating the roof, gutters and gutters by watching the video:
If the test shows the correct result, it means that the anti-icing system was installed correctly. In this case, you get good, reliable heating of the roof and gutters. Such a system will increase the service life of the roof, and will also eliminate the inconvenience associated with falling icicles and snow from the overhangs.
Conclusion
Smart choice and high-quality installation Roof anti-icing systems will avoid the problem of clogging drain channels and destruction of the entire drainage system when snow melts from the roof. But it is better to entrust the design and installation of roof heating to professionals, because otherwise you can end up with a system that consumes too much electricity or does not cope with its responsibilities.
The deterioration of the Moscow climate is manifested in a decrease in average monthly winter temperatures, an increase in the number of snowfalls and blizzards. Therefore, heating roofs and gutters for business centers, government and public buildings, luxury residential complexes, sports arenas, shopping and entertainment centers is no longer a luxury, but an urgent necessity. Roof heating is often ordered by owners of Moscow mansions, country houses in outskirts of Moscow.
A snow-free roof and heated gutters do not cause difficulties with regular cleaning after snowfalls. Melted snow does not form icicles that are dangerous to residents and passers-by. Company industrial mountaineering Tigris will quickly and efficiently install effective roof heating systems on roofs of any size and configuration.
The cost of installing a heating system
When creating an estimate for installing a roof heating system, many factors and nuances are taken into account. The basic unit is the length of the heating cables, which depends on the heated area of the roof, its materials, and the configuration of the slopes.
IN linear meters The length of the power cables, which need to be sealed by tightening into metal or corrugated cables, is also measured plastic pipes, connect to distribution panels installed by installers of roof heating systems.
The cost of installing roof heating depends on the air temperature at which the work is carried out.
High altitude operations in freezing temperatures are subject to increased rates.
In exact calculation estimated cost Roof anti-icing systems include drilling mounting holes in walls, interfloor ceilings, installation of humidity and temperature sensors to automate the heating of the drainage system.
Production operations for delivering cable materials and equipment, lifting them to the roof of the house, and installing safety fences as separate items are not included in the estimate.
| Types of jobs | Units | Price, rub |
|---|---|---|
| Installation of heating cable at temperatures > 3°C | linear m. | from 290 |
| Installation of heating cable at temperatures from 0 to 3°C | linear m. | from 420 |
| Installation of heating cable at temperatures< 0°C | linear m. | from 560 |
| Installation of the power cable | linear m. | from 100 |
| Tightening power cables into corrugations and pipes | linear m. | from 60 |
| Drilling holes in walls Ø30 mm | linear m. | from 900 |
| Assembly of panels (for 1 element on a DIN rail) | PC. | from 500 |
| Shield installation | PC. | from 1500 |
| Connecting the panel | PC. | from 1500 |
| Installation of a temperature sensor on the roof | PC. | from 1200 |
| Installing a humidity sensor in a gutter | PC. | from 1200 |
| Installing a humidity sensor in a drainpipe | PC. | from 2400 |
| Installation of a drainage system | PC. | from 750 |
Roof heating installation technology
Of the several types of heating of roofing coverings (water, steam, thermal panels), the most effective and trouble-free is recognized electrical system roof anti-icing.
The main element of roof heating systems is the heating cable, designed to protect against ice and warm up freshly fallen snow.
The safety of using such cables is ensured by special multilayer insulation (made of thermoplastics, elastomers, polyolefin).
When heating the roof, the copper busbar can heat up to temperatures of 90° C.
Installation electric heating possible for all types of roofing coverings. On flat soft roofs the cable is laid on a mesh glued to the surface and secured with bolted connections. On steep slopes roof heating is mounted with a cable that is attached to the ribs metal profiles or slate with special clips. In gutters and gutters, heating cables are secured with adhesive aluminum tape and equipped with strain reliefs.
Electric roof heating is available for all buildings equipped with electricity, is economical, and can be easily automated. To automate roof heating systems, they are used temperature sensors, humidity sensors. The required roof heating temperature is regulated by turning on and off automatic relays that respond to readings from remote sensors. This ensures that the system is economical, since the heating does not work in warm weather.
Features of the service
The main feature of the installation cable system Anti-icing is due to the fact that the heating is installed at a considerable height.
On many buildings, roof coverings require additional repairs before installing heating and laying cables.
The lifting of installation equipment and cables in reels to the height is carried out on ropes with pulleys along outside building.
When installing mechanical winches or lifting systems, care must be taken to ensure the safety of passersby.
To install sensors in drains (when ordering automation of the heating system), industrial climbers descend the walls on ropes using special climbing equipment.
Installation work on roof heating requires industrial climbers to comply with the requirements of general and special safety measures:
- admission to electrical installation work;
- fencing with ropes, metal barriers to the working area on the roof;
- proper organization equipment lifting points, installer lowering points;
- fencing the area under the lift site;
- technological discipline during installation work.
By ordering a roof heating installation from the Tigris-Alp industrial mountaineering company, you guarantee yourself efficient and trouble-free operation of the heating system. For urgent orders, installers may work in frosty weather.
At strong winds, thunderstorms, installation operations for installing roof heating at height are not carried out, but specialists are engaged in preparatory work in the under-roof rooms. Only long-term force majeure circumstances can prevent Tigris installers from meeting the contractual deadlines for installing roof heating.
Roof heating systems are still considered know-how, but many organizations and private home owners are already successfully using them. Today, not everyone understands the advisability of installing a heating cable; most are sure that “heating the street” is unprofitable. In fact, heating the roof allows you to save on roof maintenance and repairs. How does this happen? Let's figure it out.
How to avoid the formation of icicles and ice on the roof
In winter, you won’t surprise anyone with rows of icicles under the roof. But if children perceive them as decoration and entertainment, then for adults the ice is a real natural disaster. Every year, many residents of high-rise buildings suffer from fallen icicles. In addition, due to ice, the waterproofing of the roof deteriorates, and roofing material breaks down faster. Even timely cleaning of the roof does not improve the situation, because during work it is inevitably damaged. outer layer roofs.
Icicles under the roof pose a real danger to passing people and cars parked nearby
There are several ways to avoid this unfortunate fate:
- Ensure proper attic ventilation. If the temperature of the roof is no higher than that of the air, the snow on it will not turn into ice and form icicles. You can cool your roof by adding vents on the gables or slopes to cold air freely entered the attic. This method is used only if the ceiling is well insulated, otherwise heat from the room will be quickly lost through the ceiling. In addition, even properly equipped ventilation often does not bring the expected result.
- Carry out roof insulation work. Another way to keep your roof cool is to prevent heated attic air from raising the temperature of the roofing material. To do this, the roof is sheathed from the inside with membranes, laying insulation between them. This path requires a significant investment of time and money, since good materials will be quite expensive. In addition, errors in the installation of insulation and ventilation systems can lead to mold in the attic and in the house. In temperate climates proper insulation can almost completely eliminate the likelihood of ice formation, the only exception being days with particularly unfavorable weather. In colder regions, it is sometimes necessary to deliberately create heat leaks to reduce snow accumulation on the roof.
- Treat the roofing material with a chemical anti-icing emulsion. Similar compositions are applied to the surface of aircraft to prevent ice from accumulating on them at high altitudes. The product is effective, but is too expensive. In addition, the protective film must be renewed several times during the winter, and the technological process itself requires the participation of specialists. Because of such nuances chemicals de-icing on roofs is not usually used.
- Equip an electric pulse anti-icing system. It was developed in the sixties of the last century for aviation needs. The heating unit of the system consists of inductors (electromagnetic coils without a core) fixed under the roof overhangs. When a short pulse is applied to the coils, ring currents are created in them, which seem to strike the roofing material. As a result of this treatment, the ice on the roof turns into crumbs and falls down. This system is not able to prevent the formation of ice, but does not require constant energy expenditure. Unfortunately, due to high cost components of such systems are also used extremely rarely.
- . Active heating is needed when previous methods cannot give positive results due to climate conditions, complex roof structure, high price or other factors. This most often happens in regions where the temperature often changes from positive to negative and back. In addition, heating is the only way to prevent ice from forming in gutters and thus reduce the likelihood of winter leaks.
The roof anti-icing system works by heating the cable as it passes through it. electric current, which is activated manually or by a signal from sensors installed on the roof
If you are sure that your roof is well insulated and has proper ventilation, but icicles continue to appear, the only solution is active heating. Of course, it will require a certain amount of electricity, but you won’t have to clear the snow and ice yourself, and also risk the rapid destruction of the roof and the health of others.
What is a roof heating system
A roof heating system, anti-ice or snow melting system is a complex of heating elements, sensors and actuators that prevent the formation of ice and icicles on the roof. As a rule, the roof is not heated completely, but only in the most vulnerable places: along the edges of the slopes, along the valley, along the entire length of drainage systems. It is not advisable to install heating above the snow retainers, as this will require too much energy and will also reduce the effectiveness of the roof’s thermal insulation due to the snow cap. The cables are placed on top of the roof covering, so you can add an anti-icing system at any convenient time after the final finishing of the roof; dismantling its elements is not required.
The roof heating cable is usually laid along the edges of the slope, and it can be attached to the snow guards with plastic ties
A good heating system can:
- prevent snow and ice from falling on people, cars, flower beds, etc.;
- reduce the load on the rafter system and floors, which usually increases due to ice;
- protect the drain from destruction, which often cracks after the accumulated water freezes;
- extend the service life of the roofing material, saving it from unfavorable operating conditions;
- relieve home owners from the need to manually clear the roof of snow and ice.
A cable heating system can save warm roofs on which snow melts at a temperature of -10 o C. If your roof is decorated with icicles in colder times, installing the cable is advisable only after good insulation.
Roof heating system design
A standard roof heating system has three main components.
How to choose a roof heating system
Roof anti-icing systems primarily differ in the type of heating element - it can be a cable or film (similarly warm floor). Experts often divide such systems according to installation method - into equipment for hidden and outdoor installation. Only the heating cable is installed outside; the film will not withstand harsh conditions. But you can place both film and cable under the roofing material. In particular, this is done when installing cable heating on flat roofs of high-rise buildings in use.
If the anti-icing system is installed under roofing covering, then both a cable and a film, arranged according to a certain pattern, can be used as its heating element
Gutters and pipes are heated only with open-mounted cables, since otherwise it is impossible to ensure timely melting of snow.
Table: differences and features of heating elements of a roof heating system
| Element | Device | Peculiarities |
| Self-regulating wire | It consists of a matrix (polymer with two wires inside), polymer insulation, metal braid and an additional layer of insulation. As the air temperature increases, the number of conductive paths in the matrix decreases, which reduces the heating temperature. |
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| Resistive wire | It consists of a metal heating core under a layer of insulation (single-core cable) or of a heating and power core in insulation (double-core cable). The best and most expensive modifications have a nichrome core. Heats up due to internal resistance. |
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| Film | Thin flexible film with carbon conductive strips. Due to the frequent arrangement of the stripes, heat is transferred over almost the entire surface of the canvas. Supplied in small rolls, making it easy to transport and store. |
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If you do not want to spoil the appearance of the roof or are concerned about the safety of the cable anti-icing system, install the cable between the sheathing elements.
Besides design features roof and heater characteristics, the cost of the anti-icing system should also be taken into account. The most expensive type is film, in second place will be self-regulating cable, on the third - resistive. But don't use the last option just because it's the cheapest. After all, during long-term operation, a self-regulating cable will turn out to be more profitable and will pay for its increased price due to significant savings in energy consumption.
Do not use an open-mounted (cable) anti-ice system if there are no snow guards on the roof. If you ignore the rule, the cable will be torn from the fasteners after the first snow leaves the roof.
Installation and maintenance of roof heating systems
Before laying the cable, you should determine which area of the roof requires heating. As a rule, these are places of maximum accumulation of snow and ice: valleys, roof overhangs and gutters. If you heat only one zone and ignore the other, the heating efficiency will significantly decrease, and the likelihood of destruction of unheated fragments will increase several times. For example, if you do not heat the drainpipes, the water that melts on the slopes will not be able to get into storm sewer, will gather in the pipes and tear them apart. Having decided on the heated zones, you can calculate the length of the required cable, taking into account the margin for arcs, connections and permissible fragment sizes.
When calculating the required power of a roof heating system, use the rule: for a gutter with a diameter of 10–15 cm, a power of 30–60 W/m2 is needed, for a larger diameter - 200 W/m2. A cable with a power of more than 17 W per linear meter cannot be installed in a polymer drain.
The power and other technical characteristics of the heating cable are usually indicated on its insulation
The power standard for a roof heating system is 18–22 W/m for a resistive cable and 15–30 W/m for a self-regulating one. Calculated power density per unit roof area is 150–300 W/m2.
- for the air temperature sensor - switching on at a temperature from 0 to +3 o C, switching off - at a temperature above +3 o C;
- for a temperature and air humidity sensor - switching on at a temperature from 0 to +3 o C simultaneously with the presence of water in the control area.
The placement of weather sensors must be considered so that they are located in the path of melt water.
Which cable to use for roof heating
If you firmly decide to reject the option of film heating, you will have to make a choice from self-regulating and resistive cables. When purchasing a self-regulating cable, the main thing is to take into account the climatic conditions of your region. If your winters are not too cold, a medium-temperature cable marked NTM, NTA, NTR will be sufficient. For colder places, high-temperature wire under the brand name VTS or VTX is suitable.
Cables with markings beginning with the letter “H” are intended for standard operating conditions, and products whose designations begin with “B” make sense for use in regions with frosty winters
With a resistive heating cable, things are not so simple. There are varieties that do not differ much in price, but are noticeably different in structure and properties. Experts highlight:
- single-core resistive cable. This is the cheapest variety. It is these conductors that need to be brought together to one point during installation. The service life of the product is short, but the presence of a metal braid under the insulation guarantees the safety of people, even when a breakdown occurs. Choose this option only for non-residential buildings or for roofs with a very large area;
Single-core resistive cable is the cheapest and is used on the roofs of outbuildings or very large buildings.
- two-core resistive cable. It has two equal conductors or one heating (high resistance) and one supply (low resistance) wire. Since the circuit is closed by an additional wire, the end of the cable does not need to be brought to the beginning of the installation, which significantly simplifies installation and preliminary calculations. Twin-core cable also has reduced electromagnetic emissions, making it better suited for residential use.. It costs more than a single-core one, but justifies the additional costs due to the savings in length (no need for a return loop);
Due to the presence of two current-carrying cores, such a cable has an oval rather than a round cross-section
- sectional or zone cable. The most advanced type of resistive heating elements. It consists of two parallel conductors with low resistance (for current transmission only) connected to a high resistance spiral (for heating). In this case, the spiral (usually nichrome wire) is connected pointwise to one or the other conductor. It turns out that the cable consists of sections connected in parallel (and not alternately like other cables). In this case, the resistance and degree of heating of each zone is adjusted independently. This is especially useful for complex roofs where nearby areas are heated differently by the sun..
A zone resistive cable consists of two low-resistance strands connected by a spiral of nichrome wire.
The most effective and affordable anti-icing system consists of a combination of resistive roof cables, complemented by temperature sensors, and self-regulating gutter cables.
For complex roofs (water accumulates in some areas, leaves are difficult to clean in others, and still others are heated by the sun even in winter), single- and double-core resistive cables are not suitable. It is more advisable to use a zonal resistive or self-regulating cable. The system will cost more, but will last much longer.
Gutters should only be equipped with self-regulating cables, otherwise you risk too much at great expense during operation and rapid failure of the system.
Do not buy a resistive heating cable for your summer house. It is not able to regulate heating and will either waste electricity in any weather, or will not prevent the formation of ice (when turned off). Resistive cables, not supplemented with weather sensors and a controller system, require your regular intervention, so use them only in buildings where you can control their operation.
Foreign manufacturers make cables designed to operate at a voltage of 240 V, and domestic ones - 220 V. Therefore, when purchasing foreign components, reduce the calculated power by 10%, since in our conditions it will not be able to produce the power indicated on the passport.
Attaching the heating cable to the roof
You can fix the heating cable on the roof using:
- stretch marks;
- mounting plate;
- brackets with chemical system fastenings;
- special tape and sealant (for temporary fixation during installation).
Arc-shaped fasteners with rivets are used to secure the cable at the bottom of gutters and inside drainpipes made of tin. If it is undesirable or impossible to break through the pipe wall, a heavy chain is placed in the drains, to the links of which the cable is attached with plastic ties.
Video: instructions for installing cables on plastic clips
Sequence of cable laying on the roof:
- Clear gutters and roof surfaces of leaves and debris. Install roofing cable fastening strips in gutters and on the roof.
When installing a heating cable into a metal drain, it is convenient to use a cutter
- Mount the junction box on the wall under the overhang, put it on cold end cable protective corrugated tube and secure the cable inside the box.
Cable installation on the wall is carried out in a protective corrugated pipe
- Lay the cable inside the gutters, using the movable tendrils of the fastening tape to secure it.
When laying the cable, it is advisable to ensure that the fastening pitch is constant
- Attach the fragment of cable that will heat the drainpipe to the chain with plastic ties. Lower the prepared cable into the pipe until a cable loop appears in the lower socket. Secure the segment at the top and repeat the procedure with each vertical pipe.
If it is impossible to make holes in the drainpipe, the heating cable is secured to the chain with ties and lowered into the pipe
- Secure the bottom edge with two plastic or metal ties.
The lower loop is attached to the pipe with plastic or metal ties
- Lay out the loops of the heating cable on the selected part of the roof, securing them with the tendrils of the mounting tape. On steep slopes, you should additionally play it safe and add point plastic fastenings.
Under no circumstances use tape for underfloor heating, only special tape. roofing tape can provide long-lasting cable fixation
- Install the air temperature sensor on the north side of the building near the distribution box.
The air temperature sensor is installed on the north side of the building near the installation box
- Check the resistance of all wires used (the norm is indicated in the passport) and the functionality of the sensors. Assemble the system following the manufacturer's instructions.
All wire connections must be placed in a sealed mounting box and protected from direct contact with the environment
- Mount the system control panel inside the heated building. Immediately after connecting, make sure the system is working, set the operating temperature range on the temperature sensor.
It is worth gluing the diagram according to which the system was assembled on the inside of the doors - this will facilitate further maintenance and repairs.
Features of working with a resistive cable
Laying a resistive cable has its own characteristics and nuances:
- Measure the resistance of each section, connecting them to the network one by one (check the diagram in the manufacturer’s instructions). Make sure that the indicators correspond to the passport data. After installation, you will need to repeat the measurements. Differences in numbers will indicate damage to the cable during installation. Such a system cannot be put into operation.
- Compose detailed plan laying the cable taking into account each loop. Make sure the cable is long enough to return the other end to the starting point. Calculate the pitch and height of the loop so that the distance between the fragments is constant. If necessary, make a loop template from cardboard and/or place bags on the roof.
The resistive wire pieces must not touch each other. To avoid contact, use spacers. The distance between the dividers should be 25–30 cm.
Features of laying a self-regulating cable
Just like laying a resistive cable, installing a self-regulating cable is determined by certain features:
Laying heating cable in drains
In drainpipes, cables of any kind are usually laid in one loop, in which the beginning and end meet in one place. To do this, take a piece of wire twice the length of the gutter/pipe, with a margin of 7–10%. The beginning and end of the loop should be located in a place where fallen leaves, debris and water are least likely to accumulate. After all, this is where the connection box with the supply to the humidity and temperature sensors is installed. The connection itself is always carefully waterproofed, but correct selection installation location will help reduce possible risks for equipment and increase its service life.
Video: DIY installation of a heating cable in a drain
How to install a control panel for a roof heating system
Connecting the controllers is an even more important step than attaching the cable to the roof. Therefore, it is worth involving a professional electrician. But if you are firmly confident in your abilities and have experience working with electrical appliances and shields, the work can be done independently.
The control element of the system is a controller that turns the heating on or off depending on the readings of the sensors connected to it
When assembling the shield you will need:
- a two-pole input circuit breaker capable of turning off the power to the system in an emergency situation (if the house has a three-phase input, the circuit breaker must also be three-phase);
- four-pole contactor;
- RCD (residual current device) for heating with a power of 30 A or more (check the power of the entire system and select a device for it);
- separate single-pole RCDs for temperature and humidity sensors;
- 30 mA RCD for protection against leakage current shock;
- weather sensors for humidity and temperature. Precipitation and melt sensors can be added if necessary;
- thermostat (standard temperature range - from -8 - +30 o C) with its own circuit breaker (RCD);
- signal diodes/bulbs.
Will also be required power cables and signal wires for connecting panel elements, mounting boxes(the quantity depends on the complexity of the system and the number of slopes), couplings, end switches, insulating materials (insulating tape, cambric tubes, heat shrink tubing) and sealants.
Roof heating faults and repairs
To avoid having to make repairs, you need to properly care for the roof, which is equipped with an anti-icing system:
- Roofs with resistive cables are especially susceptible to clogging; in places where debris accumulates, the cable may simply burn out. Therefore, during leaf fall, especially carefully (but carefully) remove foliage not only from slopes, but also from gutters;
- If one of the weather sensors fails, try to replace it as quickly as possible. After all, humidity and heat sensors not only help save energy, but also prevent overheating and damage to the cable;
- at the end of autumn, be sure to check the performance of all elements of the system. If you have a self-regulating cable installed, check all RCDs especially carefully, as they can fail due to high inrush currents in the cables.
If you follow all the rules, the anti-ice system will last at least 15 years. But if problems have already occurred, you will have to deal with their causes.
Table: possible malfunctions of the anti-ice system and ways to eliminate them
| Symptom | Cause | How to repair |
| The heating did not turn on even in test mode after laying the cable. |
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| The cable hangs over the edge of the roof, visibly sways in the wind, or moves without your intervention. | Using incorrect fasteners or installing insufficient fasteners. | Additionally, secure the cable with special clamps (taking into account the type of cable and finishing material roofs). |
| Destruction of the cable or breakdown at the junction of the conductors. | Incorrect or insufficiently thorough insulation of connections. | Dismantle the connecting elements and reconnect them, protecting the joint from moisture and heat penetration. |
| The cable broke and partially fell out of the pipe. | The cable in the drain was installed without a base - a cable or chain, and therefore could not withstand its own weight and water load. | Disconnect the damaged section of the cable and replace it with a new one using a cable. |
| The system began to waste noticeably more energy. | If the winter has not become more severe, the cause may be a failure in the weather sensors or control unit. | Check the weather sensors and all elements of the control unit one by one, and replace the broken one. |
| The system is ineffective and ice damming is not prevented. | Incorrect setting of the heating switching mode or untimely switching on in manual mode. | Set the operating temperature range from +5 to -15 o C. If ice is not prevented in this mode, expand the operating range. |
| Incorrect design of the system or use of a less powerful cable. | This error can be solved by completely replacing the system; spot repairs are impossible. |
Still unsure about the need for a roof heating system for your home? Then try to calculate how much time and money you spend on cleaning the roof from snow and repairing the coating, and evaluate whether the temperature in the attic suits you. Perhaps it is the heating cable that can make your life easier and more comfortable.