How to cover an old brick house with facing bricks. Facing the house with bricks. Features of cladding a house made of lightweight concrete

If you decide to veneer the building decorative bricks, then you should know that after completing such work the house will find good protection from external influences. That is why this finish is considered multifunctional. Before covering a house with bricks, you should familiarize yourself with some rules for carrying out work, which may involve additional insulation walls with an air gap formed between them, giving the cladding thermal insulation characteristics.

Some craftsmen cannot decide for a long time what to use (plaster or brick). The latter is favored by the durability of the material, which is many times higher than this characteristic characteristic of plaster coating. If you cover a house with brick, then the coating will not have to be changed after some time, which cannot be said about plaster, which will require replacement after several decades. However, the cost of the mixture will be much cheaper than brick.

Recommendations for working with different types of facing bricks

In order to decorate a house with bricks with your own hands, you can use one of several types of materials, including hyperpressed, ceramic and clinker bricks. If you decide to use hyper-pressed brick, then you will get walls whose surface will imitate natural stone.

However, the structure of this type of brick is so dense that there will be no air gap between the walls. This will entail the need for additional thermal insulation of the building.

When using clinker bricks, it will be possible to obtain a cladding that will be characterized by high moisture resistance and excellent resistance high temperatures. But for those who want to purchase ceramics, it is better to prefer hollow products. This will eliminate the possibility of excessive pressure affecting the foundation.

The disadvantage of this type of brick can be identified high consumption cement for masonry; this is due to the fact that the solution will enter the cavities of the products.

However, the use of bricks that have the smallest holes on the base will allow you to minimize consumption.

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Features of laying facing bricks

Before decorating a house with brick, you need to think about the dimensions and quantity of material. It is preferable to import bricks in full at once, as this will allow you to control the shade of the products. If you decide to use hyper-pressed products in your work, then you can start laying them after three weeks or more, after completion production process. This period is necessary for the material to gain strength, otherwise you may encounter the problem of products crumbling during operation.

The house can be lined with either stone or wood; in the latter case, the surface of the walls will have to be treated with an antiseptic composition, ensuring the presence of air chambers. This is necessary for the material to exchange air. Compliance of this rule necessary, otherwise the wood will rot.

When covering a house with bricks with your own hands, you need to ensure that a gap is formed between the main wall and the new masonry, the width of which is limited to 2 cm. This technology will allow you to obtain high-quality thermal insulation, and the walls will be effectively ventilated.

Before laying brick over a building, you need to think about how the foundation of the house will be strengthened. As fasteners brick cladding Anchor bolts will protrude, which can be replaced with reinforcing bars. With a step limited to 10 cm, stepping back from the edge of the base surface, you need to drill holes. In this case, a certain angle must be observed. The depth of the holes should be 10 cm, which is true for concrete, and 20 cm for brick. You will need to install reinforcement into the resulting holes so that the ends are on the outside; they should be visible by 15 cm. Now you can fill everything cement mortar, ensuring a layer thickness of 30 cm. We should not forget about insulation, which will help with roofing felt laid in two layers.

To carry out the work it is necessary to prepare following materials and tools:

• roofing felt;
• anchor bolts;
• cement;
• sand;
• capacity;
• shovel;
• Master OK;
• level;
• plumb line

To ensure that the mortar joint does not differ from the shade of the finishing material, you can use dry mixtures to fill it. They can be selected based on color. In the process of arranging the heat-insulating layer, it is necessary to use special membranes that guarantee high-quality waterproofing and excellent vapor permeability. The use of glassine and roofing felt is not recommended.

When facing walls with brick, a certain skill is required, because the masonry must be perfectly smooth and neat. To do this yourself, you need to study in detail how to lay facing bricks, what types of laying there are, and how to do jointing correctly. Finishing with such bricks is highly valued for its visual appeal and durability.

Bricklaying Tools

For high-quality cladding you need the appropriate tools:

• building level - without it it will not be possible to lay bricks in even rows;
• trowel - it is used to apply the mortar, remove excess, and trim the brick when laying;
• hammer-pick - used for splitting facing material;
• grinder with diamond blades – used for cutting bricks;
• a square metal rod with a cross section of 10x10 mm - for forming identical seams between the rows;
• round rod with a diameter of 10 mm - for jointing.

Additionally, you will need a thin construction cord or strong thread, anchors and binding wire to bind the masonry with load-bearing wall.

Types of masonry

Based on the location of the bricks in a row, there are several types of masonry:

• front (bed) - the brick is laid so that the widest side is visible;
• spoon - the long narrow side is visible from the outside;
• bonded - only the ends of the bricks are visible from the outside.

In addition, masonry is divided into types according to decorativeness:

• “half-brick” masonry - the vertical seams of the spoon or bed masonry are shifted horizontally by half the length of the brick;
• stacked - vertical seams between bricks are located on the same line;
• Flemish - spoon and bonded masonry alternate in one row;
• “American” - spoon and butt masonry alternate in rows.

If you have no experience, it is better to start with a standard half-brick spoon masonry, and as your skill improves, you can try other methods. It should be noted that stacked masonry is the most unstable, therefore it is used exclusively for decorative purposes.

Brick cladding technology

Step 1. Preparing the base

The facing must be laid on the plinth, therefore, when pouring and insulating the foundation, provide for a protrusion of the plinth along the perimeter of the house to the thickness facing masonry plus 2-3 cm for the air gap. Before starting work, check the base building level to eliminate possible distortions. If any irregularities are found, they are eliminated with cement mortar. After this, the surface must be thoroughly swept.

Step 2. Mixing the solution

For brick mortar prepared from M500 cement and clean fine sand. The components are mixed in a ratio of 1:4, and water is added in small portions. Ready mix should be homogeneous and thick enough; If the ball rolled from the solution does not fall apart and holds its shape well, the consistency is considered correct. The water for mixing must be taken clean, with minimum quantity salts, otherwise unaesthetic whitish spots will appear on the lining - efflorescence, which is not so easy to remove. An important point: you need to mix the solution in a small volume, since the installation process takes time, and the solution dries quickly.

Step 3. Laying the bottom row

Place a container of water next to the workplace and soak the bricks in it. Experienced builders It is recommended to lay the bottom row without mortar. Since the length of the perimeter of the house is not always a multiple of the length of the brick, in certain places you will have to trim the brick and select optimal location seams. If you lay the first row on mortar, trimming will be more problematic. They start working from the corner: using a level, each brick is laid on top and the seams are leveled. Be sure to leave 2-3 centimeters between the load-bearing wall and the cladding free space for ventilation.

Step 4. Laying corners

Now you need to lay out the corners to a height of 4-6 rows. Place a square rod on the bottom row along the outer edge, pick up a little mortar with a trowel and carefully apply it. Having slightly leveled the mortar, lay a brick on top, knocking it down with the handle of a trowel so that it comes into contact with the rod. Check the location with a level, if necessary, knock it down again. Carefully remove the rod, wipe off the crumbs of the solution, and then repeat the same on the other side of this corner. When laying the following bricks, make sure that the corner is tied correctly: the ends should alternate with long edges on both sides.

Step 5. Wall cladding

When all the corners are laid out, proceed to. Between corner bricks of the second row, pull a strong thread, laying it on top and securing it with something heavy. Now place a rod on the edge of the first row and cover the surface of the masonry with mortar. The bricks intended for this row are placed vertically on the ground, a little mortar is applied to the ends with a trowel, and then laid on the mortar with careful movements. Each of them is tapped, guided by the thread, the rod is removed, and the row is checked using a level.

Step 6. Attaching the cladding to the wall

If the brick cladding was not originally planned, it is necessary to link to load-bearing wall. This is done in two ways: using anchors and dowels with binding wire. In the first option, the anchor is driven halfway into the wall of the building, leaving the second part between the rows of cladding. It is better to take galvanized anchors with a diameter of 6 mm.

Second option: holes are drilled in the wall, dowels are inserted, and tie wire is attached to them. The wire should lie on the brick, but not extend beyond its edge. As a standard, fasteners are installed through 4 vertical rows and at a horizontal distance of 70 cm. For one square meter surface requires about 5 fasteners. Around the openings, the distance between the dowels is reduced by about a third.

The remaining rows are performed according to the same pattern: pull the thread between corner elements at the height of the row, lay the rod, then the mortar and bricks. It should be noted that the width of horizontal seams should be 10-15 mm, and vertical seams a little less - from 8 to 10 mm. This type of masonry will look most attractive. Near the door and window openings the brick is cut and fastened so that the row is not interrupted on the other side, then the masonry pattern above the opening will remain correct. Step 7. Laying the slopes

For greater decorativeness, the slopes are laid out from bricks of a different color. Along the perimeter of the slopes, cladding is carried out using the butting method; the resulting columns, one brick wide, may protrude slightly beyond the edge of the wall cladding. The slopes themselves must be strictly vertical, so when laying, control is carried out using the building level.

Step 7. Joining

As soon as the solution has set, you can begin to joint the masonry. The surface is swept, crumbs of mortar are removed, and the masonry is moistened with water. Prepare a working solution: mix in equal parts cement and lime and then sand is added. The ratio of sand to cement is 10:1, so much water is added so that the mixture acquires the consistency of a paste. After this, the seams are filled with mortar and they begin to be formed using jointing. The vertical seams are formed first, then the horizontal ones are unstitched.

You cannot lay out more than 6-7 rows at a time, as the masonry may become deformed under heavy load. Every 3-4 rows are checked with a level to achieve maximum verticality. You cannot fill the gap between the cladding and the wall of the building with anything, air gap necessary for ventilation of surfaces; in addition, it also performs thermal insulation functions. Slope jointing can be done immediately after laying, so as not to rearrange the scaffolding twice.

Prices for construction and facing bricks

Construction and facing bricks

Video - How to lay facing bricks

Most often, facing a house with brick becomes the final stage construction work. The design of the facade begins when:

• the frame of the house is ready;
• doors and windows installed;
• the roof is equipped.

This means that the house must be ready to live in. the main task external design of walls is to give the building an aesthetic appearance and protect the structure from negative external influences.

Today, brick cladding remains one of the most popular methods of facade design. You can use solid and hollow building materials. They have excellent thermal insulation characteristics. Most widespread receives the design of the building facade using double sand-lime brick m150. This building material considered economical in terms of consumption and effective in terms of thermal insulation of walls.

No less common is cladding the façade with ceramic cladding products. They are large in size compared to ordinary bricks. This building material imitates appearance natural surface:

• wild stone;
• ceramic brick;
• rock texture;
• wood.

Before covering a frame house facing bricks, it is necessary to take into account the climatic conditions of the area in which the construction works. The selected facing brick must withstand climatic fluctuations, changes in humidity levels and the effects of precipitation typical for a given region. Ceramic facing bricks are considered a universal building material.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmZ3W_EtFZE

To choose the right decor for own home, you can study examples of already completed facade cladding work.

Foundation preparation

Before the beginning finishing works it is necessary to pay increased attention to foundation preparation. Since finishing the house involves the use of facing bricks, the width of the foundation is increased. You need to make sure that basement part the base recedes from the rough walls by 20-30 cm. This foundation design allows you to create an additional air gap.

Air bag itself will become a thermal insulator. It can be filled with mineral wool or other insulation. If we neglect the calculation of the base part, then facing material in the future you will have to trim it, since it will not fit in width. Trimming facing bricks is difficult and expensive, so people try to avoid this operation.

Material counting

For a competent builder, facing the facade of a house with bricks begins with drawing up an estimate of the work and determining the consumption of materials. To make approximate calculations, you do not need to use complex formulas. It is enough to remember that about 50-55 stone tiles will be used to lay 1 m² of facade. It is enough to measure the area of ​​each outer wall at home to have an idea of ​​the approximate consumption of building materials.

Marking the first row of masonry

In order to properly line a wooden house with bricks, it is necessary to pay special attention to the execution of the first row of masonry. It is considered the main one, so mistakes when performing work are unacceptable. The outcome of the facing work depends on how the first row of brickwork is made.

Special marks are applied to the corners of the house. To do this, use a regular building level or a laser level. Next, in a brick or wooden house, facing bricks are placed in the corners of the facade. After this, the measurements are repeated. Then the frame house is lined with decorative bricks around the perimeter to clarify the actual consumption of building materials. On at this stage we get an idea of ​​where elements need to be cut, where the slabs will not fit due to the location of window and door openings.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjjIIglmAx4

Once you are done with the markings, you can fix the corner bricks on the facade of the house using mortar. Make sure that the height from the house mark remains the same at all corners. To decorate the building from the outside, a thread is pulled between adjacent corner bricks. If the wall length brick house exceeds 5 m, it is recommended to install an additional beacon in the center. It is necessary to prevent the thread from sagging.

So, facing walls with bricks begins with carefully laying out the first row finishing material along a guideline in the form of a thread. The blocks are placed on the prepared mortar, maintaining vertical seams between adjacent elements. Their size can vary from 6 to 10 mm. The horizontalness of the surface is controlled using a building level.

As soon as the first row of masonry is completed, a break should be taken in the work. It is necessary to building mixture managed to set and dry completely. Subject to this rule, subsequent cladding wooden house will not disturb the location of the first row of masonry bricks. In this case, you won’t have to worry about the surface deviating from a horizontal position.

For further work, a diagram or template is used. Novice craftsmen are usually concerned about the question of how to achieve perfectly even masonry seams. This is exactly what templates are for. Their function can be performed by an ordinary piece of metal rod, the diameter of which exceeds 6 mm. Thanks to the application of this device, the brickwork becomes neat, even and aesthetically pleasing.

The template is also used to raise the decoration of the house by 3-4 bricks. Make sure that the angle of the masonry does not deviate from the vertical direction. The work is controlled by a building level or plumb line. On each new row the thread is pulled and work begins.

As soon as the frame house is decorated with the first five rows of bricks, it is necessary to carry out control measurements. Using a water level, check the horizontal position of the corners.

Important points

When designing facades, it is necessary to ensure the safety and sufficient strength of the resulting masonry. Brick cladding acts as a backup for the rough wall of the house. Therefore, it is important to make sure that the finishing of the house is securely connected to the main external ceiling of the building. This problem solved by using reinforcing mesh.

To reinforce a log house, the mesh is cut into sheets of the required width and secured with dowel screws. The implementation of this bundle begins as soon as the first 6 rows of facing bricks are laid. In order for the finishing of the facade with brick to be of high quality, it is necessary to regularly release knitting wire and reinforcing mesh from load-bearing elements building.

Surface decoration

In order for a wooden house lined with brick to acquire a finished look, it is necessary to finish the seams. They are embroidered using special compounds. The seams of masonry made on top of a log house are treated with solutions containing dyes. The color of the dye determines the shade of future seams. It is introduced into cement-sand mortar and mix the composition thoroughly.

The finished solution, like the insulation, is laid using construction tools. IN in this case we're talking about about jointing. The bending of the device determines the shape of the resulting seams. When performing final work, it is important not to stain the façade of the building with the solution. The craftsmen remove all traces of the substance that gets on the masonry instantly. Once the composition dries, it will be much more difficult to remove traces of it. The solution is removed using a rag.

The finished brickwork must be reliably protected from exposure to precipitation. To solve the problem, the surface is treated with a composition with water-repellent properties. The liquid is distributed over the surface with a brush or paint roller.

Let's sum it up

Before proceeding with the design of the facade, it is necessary to insulate the wooden house from the outside and provide the necessary moisture insulation. The selected insulation must match climatic conditions the area in which the building is located.

Sand-lime brick remains one of the most popular finishing and building materials.

He is considered universal material and used in different regions, starting from the southern and ending with the northern. If you follow the work technology, the building will serve you long years, and its façade is not deformed under the influence of external factors.

//www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSyG5V2RsAs

The appearance of the house is its calling card. Without beautiful modern and well made exterior finishing the house will look like a dull, unfinished structure. The longevity of your home will directly depend on the quality of the material and the work performed.

Today there is a huge amount of materials for exterior finishing of buildings on the market. This is siding (plastic, metal), tiles for facades, all kinds of Wall panels, plaster, but the most popular is still facing brick.

Modern brick has a wide range of colors and a large number of textures, which gives the building an exceptional unique design.

There are several technologies for the production of facing bricks and, based on this, it has its own name and different characteristics. There is ceramic, hyper-pressed, clinker, silicate. Let's try to understand the features of each of the types of bricks available on our market and try to decide for ourselves which one is suitable for us.

Material selection

Ceramic brick

Ceramic bricks are made from clay and are relatively inexpensive. It has both disadvantages and advantages. The disadvantages include high hygroscopicity 6-14%, which depends on the type of clay used for production. When water gets into the pores and then freezes, the brick may begin to crumble. To reduce this factor, after facing the walls, the brick is coated with a special hydrophobic composition. Ceramic bricks are quite fragile and can begin to deteriorate during transportation. Frost resistance ranges from 25 to 50 cycles.

The advantages include: a wide variety of colors, sizes and shapes, a relatively inexpensive price, environmental friendliness of the material, good thermal conductivity, good sound insulation.

Hyperpressed brick

Hyperpressed brick is obtained by pressing a lime-cement mixture followed by drying in a warm room. The addition of coloring pigments allows you to obtain a larger range of colors. Essentially this fake diamond shaped like a brick. It has texture and characteristics natural stone. Its strength characteristics are superior to silicate and ceramic bricks. Frost resistance ranges from 30 to 300 cycles.

Minuses. Mass production in our country has not yet been developed and, as a result, the price is high. Not Smooth surface(under the stone) will allow water to flow into the pores and destroy the material. After covering the walls, just as in the case of ceramic bricks, they must be treated with hydrophobic impregnation.

Before purchasing hyperpressed bricks, you should pay attention to the date of its production. This brick can be used after 15-20 days from the date of its production. During this time, it gains 80% strength and will not break during transportation.

Sand-lime brick

For the production of sand-lime bricks it is used quartz sand. The cheapest brick and most often used for the construction of main walls, and not for finishing the facade. It has a short service life of 15-50 cycles. Quite heavy (3 kg), therefore, a wall made of such bricks will require a more powerful foundation.

Heating costs will also be higher than those of competitors, since sand-lime brick has high thermal conductivity (from 0.38 to 07 W/m°C). In the warm southern regions of our country, you can line a house with such a brick, but just like the ceramic and hyper-pressed bricks described above, after facing the walls, it is necessary to treat them with a hydrophobic impregnation.

Clinker brick

Clinker brick, like ceramic brick, is made from special type clay, but the difference in firing technology gives it higher strength and a wide variety of colors. Clinker brick has a frost resistance of 100 to 150 cycles, which speaks of its durability. Such a brick is not cheap at all.

When choosing bricks for cladding a house, you should pay attention to one more fact - the presence and shape of the holes. Solid brick weighs more, requires a more powerful foundation and costs more than a hollow one. A brick with small voids will cost much less masonry mortar, and the strength of the masonry will be higher than that of bricks with large holes.

When starting to build a house, it is necessary to provide and pour a foundation of sufficient width in order to eliminate in the future all the difficulties and additional costs for its modification.

General points

To get an even and beautiful wall, laying bricks with your own hands must be done along a tightly stretched horizontal cord, and to maintain vertical joints you must use a plumb line. Laying begins from the top level of the plinth and using mortar the horizontal level is leveled. To obtain identical seams, metal rods are used. The rod is laid on the edge of the previous row, and then the solution is placed. Using a trowel, the mortar is leveled and the brick is placed on it. After laying the brick, the rod (template) is removed from the seam and cleaned of the mortar.

It is best to use ready-made masonry mixtures as a mortar for masonry.

How to cover a wooden house

The most difficult object to cladding with bricks with your own hands is a wooden house. The whole point is that it is necessary to provide a ventilated air gap (at least 50 mm) between the brick and wooden wall Houses. To ensure air circulation between the masonry walls, ventilation ducts are left in the first row, and outlet openings are left at the top under the roof.

Determined required amount vents based on the calculation of 75 cm per 20 m2 of wall. Bottom vents close ventilation grilles from the penetration of rodents. Before you start laying bricks, wooden walls must be treated with an antiseptic solution. If you want to insulate a wooden house, the best insulation material is mineral wool. A wooden house cannot be insulated with polystyrene foam, since it is vapor-tight and the wood underneath will deteriorate.

Worth remembering! You can cover a wooden house with bricks only after it has completely settled.

A wall made of facing bricks must be tied to the main wall of the house flexible connections. To do this, nails 120 mm long are driven into the upper part of the beam (log) at an angle of 45° at a distance of 50 cm from each other. A piece of knitting wire is tied to them in the middle. The nail is driven all the way in or bent to form a hook. The wire stretches from the nail to the middle of the brick and is spread apart by 15-25 cm. The dressings are “spread” evenly over the entire area of ​​the wall.

How to cover a foam block house

A ventilated gap is also required between a wall made of facing bricks and a wall made of foam concrete, since the vapor permeability of cellular concrete is higher than that of brick. When laying bricks close to a wall made of aerated concrete, condensation will form between the materials, and as a result, when it freezes, the destruction of the material.

A house made of foam blocks is covered with bricks in the same way as a wooden house. Screw nails or galvanized perforated metal strips are used to connect two walls. The number of ties must be at least 3 pieces per 1 m2.

Brick cladding of a house with your own hands, breathe in new life the old building, and will give the new one a unique, wonderful appearance.

Video. Laying clinker bricks.

Building a house from one brick in our climate is not the most best idea: its thermal conductivity is too high, which is why the walls must be thick. But using it as a finishing material is already more economically justified: facing a house with bricks, with proper insulation, will help you save on heating costs, and will give the building a “major” appearance. If the walls are made of foam blocks or other light and warm building blocks, then such finishing will also be windproof. Wooden houses are also covered with bricks, but in this case there are some peculiarities: it is necessary to ensure the removal of vapors from the wood, otherwise mold, mildew and expensive repairs with a complete overhaul of the finish will occur.

Which brick to use

Facing bricks are produced using different technologies, due to which they have different characteristics and prices:

• Ceramic. Of all the finishing materials, it is the most inexpensive. One of the disadvantages is high hygroscopicity: 6-15% depending on the technology and batch. When water gets into the pores, it expands when it freezes, causing destruction and the brick begins to crumble. Even the special finishing one, in which in factories the bed (the part that ends up outside) is specially protected. The solution is to cover the wall with a hydrophobic compound after installation. Only those that do not form a vapor-proof film. When choosing, pay attention to this: excess moisture must be removed. Frost resistance of ceramic facing bricks is 25-75 cycles (how many times it can withstand freezing/freezing without deterioration). The higher this indicator, the higher the price. This is explained at great expense in production.
• Hyper-pressed or non-firing. This type of facing brick is produced not by firing, but by pressing. It no longer contains clay, but lime with various fillers and pigments. The ability to use pigments allows you to obtain a wide range of colors. The front surface is often nonlinear, imitating wild stone. Looks decorative. But such nonlinearity threatens delamination: uneven surface, water flows more abundantly into the pores and freezes in cold weather. This is treated in the same way as in the case of ceramics: hydrophobic impregnation. The frost resistance of high-quality unfired bricks is stated by manufacturers to be from 75 to 150 cycles.

  

• Clinker. This brick is also ceramic, but a special technology gives it very high strength and density. Denser material absorbs water much worse. This is good for use, but when laying it it leads to difficulties: in order for the wall not to “float”, it must be laid on a hard, low-plasticity mortar, and it is more difficult to work with. Another disadvantage that limits the wide distribution of a material with excellent characteristics is that it is expensive compared to previous materials: prices are 50-150% higher, depending on the manufacturer. Frost resistance of clinker is from 100 to 150 cycles. Clinker cladding of a house with bricks is not a cheap pleasure, but it is the most attractive in appearance.

  

• Silicate. The cheapest, but also the most “quickly perishable” of facing bricks: its frost resistance is 25-50 cycles. It conducts heat better. Not much, but still: the average thermal conductivity of ceramic is 0.16, silicate is 0.18. In addition, it is heavier: on average, the weight of ceramics is 2.4 kg, silicate of the same size is 3 kg. More weight requires a more powerful foundation and the price gain (silicate is cheaper) is not so great. If you consider that heating costs will also be higher, then the gain is questionable. It is advisable to cover the house with sand-lime brick in warm regions. In the northern regions this is completely unprofitable.

  

  Cladding a house with sand-lime brick is the most inexpensive, but, unfortunately, also the most short-lived type of finishing.

Choosing the type of brick is not everything. It is also necessary to pay attention to the size and shape of the holes. Solid finishing bricks are rarely used: they are more expensive and weigh more. On average, voids occupy about 28%, but they can be large and small. Given equal characteristics, give preference to bricks with small holes: the mortar will not flow into them. This will reduce the consumption of masonry mortar and increase the strength of the masonry.

If you decide to clad the house with hyper-pressed brick, it should be made no earlier than 15-20 days ago. During this time, it gains basic strength (about 80%) and can be transported and loaded without fear.

Please note that the brick packaging should not be exposed to water during storage. This is especially true if you are planning to leave it for the winter.

How to cover a wooden house (timber, log, frame) with bricks

The most difficulties arise when finishing a wooden house with bricks: the materials have very different characteristics, and it is not easy to make a good bond out of them. The whole secret here is necessity ventilation gap between the cladding and a layer of insulation, which is usually applied to a wooden wall. A windproofing membrane is laid on top of the insulation. A prerequisite is that it must be vapor-permeable (Izospan A, Izospan AS, Tyvek HouseRep, Megaizol SD, etc.). Only under such conditions will the room be normal humidity and rot and fungus will not develop between the cladding and the wooden wall.

Instead of windproofing, you can protect the surface of the insulation with fiberglass or fiberglass. With sufficient thickness wooden walls The thermal insulation layer is simply missing, the wind insulation and ventilation gap remain.

The ventilation gap must be at least 60 mm. It stretches from the very bottom of the wall - it starts after the base - and to the top. To ensure air flow, ventilation ducts are made in the first row through which air enters. Exit openings are installed under the roof in the eaves. The area of ​​ventilation holes is 75 cm2 for every 20 m2 of wall. The vents in the bottom row can be made in several ways:

• lay a brick with through holes on its side;
• partially fill the side seams with mortar (when laying the mortar, place a ruler, then remove it);
• make two or three holes and install gratings.

Regarding what kind of insulation to use. The most acceptable option is mineral wool in mats or rolls. The use of polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene is undesirable: they do not conduct steam. This will lead to the wood rotting, and indoor humidity will be higher than normal.

Another important point: You can cover a wooden house with bricks only after the main shrinkage of the frame has taken place. And this is at least 1.5-2 years. In this sense, it is easier with old wooden houses: the main processes have taken place in them.

Pros and cons of a wooden house lined with brick

The combination of materials so different in all characteristics is a complex and completely ambiguous matter. From positive points can be distinguished:

There are enough negative points:

In general, this is not an ideal solution. If you are still planning your house, think twice. Maybe it would be better to build them and then cover them with bricks. These materials coordinate much better and complement each other's qualities. It is worth covering a wooden house with bricks if the house is old, the wood has darkened, and it is necessary to give it a more attractive appearance.

Wall cladding technology

First, the wood is treated with a protective impregnation for outdoor use. Then the sheathing is made of planed timber (also impregnated). The dimensions of the timber depend on the required thickness of the thermal insulation layer. Usually for Middle zone Russia needs a thickness of basalt wool of about 50 mm, for more northern regions from 100 to 150 mm. But exactly everything is calculated depending on the thickness of the wall (made of timber or logs) and the brick chosen for cladding.

The insulation is laid very tightly, without gaps: the sheathing is padded taking into account its width. The distance between the bars should be a couple of centimeters less than the width of the insulation. This way the material will be laid with force. It will fit tightly to the sheathing, which will minimize the formation of cold bridges.

An example of brick cladding on the wall of a wooden and frame house

Lay on top of the insulation windproof membrane. It must be vapor permeable, and if the vapor permeability is one-sided, then moisture must be removed from the room. Fasten the membrane with staplers to the sheathing. Next, leave a gap for ventilation of at least 60 mm and install a wall made of facing bricks.

How to do it right

There are several subtleties that you need to know. The house is usually covered with half a brick. Without support, the wall becomes shaky, especially when large areas. To make it stand firmly, it is tied to a wooden wall. There are two ways:

Single dressings should be located over the entire surface of the wall. There are different recommendations - at a distance of about 50 cm from one another or 4 pieces per square meter.

If you are planning to cover a house with bricks with your own hands, problems may arise with the horizontal and vertical position of the masonry. Can help next technique, allowing you to simultaneously control all directions:

• Long pins are driven horizontally into the corners of the house under the roof and above the base. They should protrude from the wall at a distance greater than the entire thickness of the finish.
• At one corner, a wire is tied to the upper pin at a distance corresponding to the outer edge of the masonry and lowered down, movably fixed to the lower nail.
• A plumb line is used to check and set its verticality and firmly fix it.
• Also, a vertical wire is tied at the same distance at the other end of the wall.
• A horizontal cord is tied between two stretched strings. It will serve as a guide during laying: it can be moved upward as the rows are laid. Just every time you need to check the horizontalness using a level.

All of the above applies to frame houses. They also require a ventilation gap. The situation is similar: on the outside there is a material that conducts moisture much worse than those located inside. In this case, only wire or strips of tin for bandaging are attached to the frame posts.

To reinforce or not

In general, reinforcement makes the wall stronger and more reliable. Therefore it is better to reinforce. But this complicates and slows down the laying, which leads to an increase in the cost of work (if craftsmen were hired).

If you do it yourself, then you need to lay rows with reinforcement approximately every 5th row. A special mesh with a cell size of 50-50 mm or two longitudinal reinforcement bars with a diameter of 6 mm are used as reinforcement. At the same time, the size of the seam, both with and without reinforcement, should be the same.

The brick cladding of a house was filmed “live”, the laying technique was “under the rod”. The seams turn out beautiful, but water flows into them, which is then absorbed by the brick. Therefore, the seams cannot be left in this form. They must be filled with mortar and embroidered in the same plane as the surface of the brick. Then the absorption of water during bad weather will be significantly reduced, and the “life” of brick wall cladding will increase significantly. The laying process itself is demonstrated correctly: the mortar is laid carefully, and any drops that fall on the surface are immediately wiped away.

Facing a house with bricks made of aerated concrete, foam concrete and gas silicate

Vapor permeability cellular concrete also higher than that of brick. That is, the situation is exactly the same: inside the room there is material that removes vapors better. Therefore, to ensure a normal microclimate in the room and a long service life, a ventilation gap between the brickwork and the wall and foam blocks is necessary.

If you line a house made of aerated concrete (foam concrete, aerated silicate) with bricks without a gap, its service life will decrease by about 60%: condensation will accumulate at the boundary of the two materials. At low temperatures, frozen moisture will destroy the shell of the bubbles, gradually destroying the entire material and significantly deteriorating its characteristics.

Cladding options aerated concrete house bricks and their characteristics

Additional insulation materials are used very rarely; if they are still needed, all the rules are the same as when cladding a wooden house: basalt wool, protected by windproofing.

The size of the ventilation gap is from 60 to 150 mm. Number of connections between two walls: at least 3 pieces per square meter of masonry, their cross section- not less than 5 mm 2 per 1 m 2. For connections, you can use screw or stainless steel nails with a length of at least 120 mm. They are driven not perpendicular to the wall, but at an angle of at least 45°. You can use galvanized strips with perforations, which are nailed on one side building blocks, and the other end is wound into brickwork, where it bends at an angle. Note: connections should not be embedded in the masonry joints of the main wall. Just nailed to front surface blocks.

The best cladding for walls made of aerated concrete and foam concrete is brick with a ventilation gap

Slag or slag-pouring house

Brick cladding in the case of buildings using slag is used more often when cracks spread along the walls. This happens mainly when the slag has exhausted its resource and began to crumble. On average, its service life is 50 years, it is reduced if the humidity of the walls is high.

Brick cladding of a cinder block (cinder block) house will only delay the inevitable: it will slow down the destruction, but will not stop it. The duration of the delay depends on the condition of the material and the measures taken. On average he is 8-15 years old. It is hardly possible to do without consulting a specialist: the cost of a mistake is too high.

In most cases, it is recommended to build a frame around the house, onto which to transfer part of the load of the floor and roof, and carry out waterproofing work. One of which is external protection walls from precipitation using brick cladding. The brick is selected with the lowest water absorption. For greater protection, the masonry can be impregnated with a hydrophobic compound (but does not create a vapor-proof film). Penetrating hydrophobic impregnation main wall. To do this, you can use impregnations such as “Penetron” and analogues. They will simultaneously strengthen the material and significantly reduce water saturation.

Watch the video about the practice of facing old buildings with bricks.

About choosing suppliers and prices

Prices for the same materials vary greatly depending on the region. To correctly assess the situation, you need to conduct your own market research: call or visit the largest suppliers, look at offers in the region online. During the call, you need to get technical data and find out prices. Then compare the characteristics of the brick and compare the prices.

What can I advise: do not buy materials that are too cheap. If the difference from the average market price is 15-20%, most likely these are the remnants of last year’s not-so-successful batch. For the rest, look at the ratio of price and declared characteristics.

Average prices in Moscow are as follows:

• silicate facing brick - 11-21 rubles/piece;
• ceramic facing - 18-35 rubles/piece (full-bodied 45-65 rubles/piece);
• hyperpressed non-firing - 25-31 rubles/piece;
• clinker - 27-40 rubles/piece.

After selecting several possible suppliers, check out their products in person. Smooth edges, uniform coloring, absence of cracks and any defects - this is what you should see.

About batch sizes. It is advisable to purchase the entire volume of material for cladding at once. This will help you save about 10-15%. Some suppliers offer large quantities to be delivered by dump trucks directly from the factory. This is cheaper and eliminates additional overload, which means less combat.

Another advantage of purchasing in bulk is that there will most likely be only one batch, which guarantees uniform coloring. In any case, facing a house with bricks is carried out from several packages at the same time. So even slightly different shades will not create color spots.