How to quietly destroy plants. How to get rid of weeds once and for all? Secrets of clean garden beds. How to remove a root after it has dried out

Gardeners often approach the selection of seedlings extremely responsibly, trying to plan the planting with maximum accuracy to obtain from the plants maximum benefit. They take into account not only climatic conditions in your region, but also lighting and soil characteristics. However, sometimes owners of suburban areas are interested in what to water the tree with so that it dries out quickly. This method, of course, can hardly be considered humane, but sometimes there is simply no other way out.

For example, if there is an old tree on the site with a trunk diameter of more than 30 cm, but it cannot be cut down because there are other structures or plants nearby. The only way out in this situation is to dry the tree using special chemicals.

There are many ways to ensure that a tree on your site dries out quickly. However, the most common of them are those that involve the use of chemicals. preparations intended to destroy plants. And no matter how harmful these remedies may be, they nevertheless allow you to perform this work as quickly as possible.

More specifically, the following chemical methods of destroying trees are distinguished:

• watering plant tissues with chemical compounds;
• coating leaves with special preparations;
• grafting that kills trees;
• placing the drug in the ground next to the trunk;
• complete destruction (including the stump);
• applying a chemical to the bark.

Important information! Note that most of the chemicals described below affect the root system of trees. When choosing a specific composition, be sure to take into account the composition of the soil. There are products that act on the bark or living tissues of plants.

Ideally, the tree should be cut down altogether and the remaining stump properly treated. This way you can get rid of the tree as quickly as possible. Be that as it may, first let’s get acquainted with the most effective means and features of their use.

Popular chemicals for killing trees

If you intend to use chemicals, you must select the most suitable suitable option. Below is a list of the most effective (according to summer residents) chemical agents.

1. Sodium nitrate. As a rule, it is used to destroy stumps, but in our case it should be applied not only to the tree trunk, but also to the ground. To get the desired effect as quickly as possible, it is advisable to inject sodium nitrate into the hollow. In about a year, the tree will be completely dry - then it can be burned. And if you water the soil with this saltpeter, the tree will dry out only after a few years.

"Mikado RK". Clopyralid and picloram are systemic substances

Note! A tree is still a living organism, which should be killed only in extreme cases. Don't get too carried away with this procedure.

Now, having familiarized yourself with the main chemicals, capable of quickly drying out wood, let’s consider which processing methods are most popular. Some of these methods involve the use of one or another of the drugs described above.

Prices for ammonium nitrate

ammonium nitrate

The main methods of destroying trees with chemicals

Let’s immediately say that there are many such methods, so we will consider only the most effective of them.

Method number 1. Application of chemicals to living tissue

The tree bark is an obstacle due to which herbicides cannot penetrate the vascular tissues of the plant. Therefore, in order for the product to reach its destination, make downward cuts on the surface of the trunk, but do not tear off the bark. Use a small ax for this. As a result, notches and cuts should be made along the entire circumference of the trunk.

Use the herbicide you have chosen after making the cuts - apply it to the wood tissue.

Note! Do not use herbicides in spring time, since the juice that will ooze from the cuts will prevent the chemical from being absorbed.

Method No. 2. Watering the soil with herbicides

Certain drugs can be used for uniform application to the ground surface. After rain or artificial watering, the herbicide will enter the root system. To concentrate the chemical in one place, you can resort to installing barriers in the ground (for example, concrete).

Note! This method It is advisable to use in cases where it is necessary to destroy several or many trees at the same time.

Method number 3. "Killer" injections

They are very close in their principle of action to method No. 1, and differ only in that they are used to introduce chemicals into tissues. special devices. Maximum efficiency methods is achieved if a targeted effect is applied around the circumference of the trunk in increments of 5-10 cm. Injections are made at a height of approximately 1 m from the ground. The method is used for trees whose trunk diameter exceeds 5 cm.

Step 1. First, prepare a drill, as well as a drill for it, the diameter of which is 5-10 mm.

Step 2. Make holes 4-5 cm deep as described above. It is important that the drill is at an angle of 45-50° relative to the ground surface when working.

Step 3. Take a simple pharmacy syringe, fill it with a product whose active ingredient is glyphosate (for example, “Ground”, “Tornado”, etc.), or, alternatively, pour the chemical directly into the holes. The concentration of glyphosate in the product must be at least 200 g/l.

Herbicide "Ground"

For example: to dry a tree with a trunk diameter of 35 cm, you will need 35-40 ml of a product in which the concentration of glyphosate is 360 g/l.

Step 4. Seal the holes with earth to hide traces of injections, remove the shavings and see if the drug leaks out (the latter is good because it dries for a long time and is clearly visible on the bark). Soon enough the plant will begin to dry out.

Note! You can use other herbicides, but it is still better to give preference to preparations with glyphosate, since they are immediately inactivated by soil microflora after the root system dies.

Heavier herbicides based on sulfometuron-methyl or imazapyr, on the contrary, after the death of trees, penetrate into the soil and often kill plants located nearby. Although you can take care of the barriers described earlier.

Method number 4. Treatment of leaves with preparations

This method is very popular when destroying bushes whose height does not exceed 4 m. It can be used from the beginning of spring to the end of summer (more exact time depends on the specific herbicide). The effectiveness of the drugs is noticeably reduced if the weather is dry and hot, and the tree suffers from moisture deficiency.

If preparations are applied to the leaves of crops with large annual growth, this can lead to the appearance of excess growth (the only exception is certain extremely susceptible species). If you use this method, it is not necessary to impregnate the barrel with chemicals.

Method No. 5. Simultaneous destruction of trunk and stump

Here, first, the tree itself is removed using an ax or chainsaw, and then a chemical is produced. stump removal (more details on this at the end of the article). If you use this method, apply the herbicide only to a fresh stump. If the diameter of the trunk is large, treat only the outer edge of the stump (no more than 5-10 cm), including the cambium - the internal tissues of such trees are mostly already dead.

If the trunk diameter is less than 10 cm, apply the chemical to the entire cut surface. Apply the drug immediately after cutting the tree - this way the effectiveness will be maximum.

Method number 6. Processing tree bark

Measure 30-35 cm from the ground surface, make a mark on the trunk and process the area below this mark chemical preparation. It is advisable to hold the event in spring or summer. Before applying, mix the product with oil, then treat the bark until it is completely saturated. What is typical is that this method is applicable to all trees, regardless of what type they are and what size they are.

Greenhouse cleaning work begins with clearing debris and washing the structure. And the first stages are carried out even before the onset of frost. Read more about this in.

Herbicide prices

herbicides

Below are useful tips, which will help you with the destruction of unwanted trees.

1. The person who destroys trees with chemicals bears full responsibility for the final effect.
2. Remember that the accuracy of the application can be improved by adding a coloring agent to the herbicide. Trees that have been treated this way are much easier to track, so you are less likely to miss them when re-treating them (if necessary).
3. Trees can “cork” cuts and damage, thereby protecting themselves. In other words, around damaged tissues, protective layer, which can reduce the effectiveness of the drug used. For this reason, when using method No. 1, the chemical must be applied immediately after making the cuts.

Note! It is believed that on the eastern side the root system grows to the height of the crown, while on the western side it grows to ½ of this height. You can use this rule of thumb.

Alternative Methods

There are also several alternative ways, allowing the tree to dry out quickly. Let's look at the most effective, and therefore popular, ones. For the convenience of visitors, the information below is presented in table form.

Table. How else can you treat wood to make it dry?

Note! By the way, if the roots are blocking the sewer line, you can use Root Destroyer (if you can find it), which you just need to flush down the toilet. This way you will only kill the roots that have penetrated the network, but will not harm the tree.

When the tree dries out, it is cut down and burned. But after this, roots remain in the ground, which can also cause a lot of trouble. Below is small instructions By mechanical removal stump

Video - How to remove a stump using a chemical method

This plant, familiar to many from childhood, is considered more useful than decorative. But in vain: in addition to the familiar tree-like aloe, there are several dozen more species of this plant, some of which look very interesting. Aloe tolerates well both straight Sun rays, and insufficient lighting, dry air and high humidity, temperature changes and rare watering. In winter, it is enough to water the plant once a month, and in summer - once a week.

If you want aloe not only to feel good, but to feel good, replant it once every two years in soil for succulents, do not expose it to the scorching sun and water it when the soil in the pot dries out.

Another ornamental medicinal plant that can survive the carelessness of its owner. Kalanchoe does not like strong humidity, so if you forget to water it, it will not be offended by you. Also, nothing will happen to this plant if the room temperature drops to +5 °C. Kalanchoe loves light, but it is still better not to expose it to the afternoon sun. There is no need to spray it either.

3. Echeveria (echeveria)

Like all succulents, echeveria does not need special care. It is enough to plant it in soil for succulents and water it occasionally (in summer, once a week is enough, in spring and autumn - once a month, and in winter, you can generally water it 1-2 times). Any Echeveria will suit you room temperature above +5 °C.

4. Howea Forstera (kentia)

This palm tree is amazingly unpretentious. She doesn’t care about life in a dark corner of the room and dry air. You need to water the howea more often in the summer months, preventing the soil in the pot from drying out, and in winter - less often, when the soil begins to dry out. To keep the plant feeling good, you can spray it or wash the leaves from time to time. warm water in the shower.

This plant also does not need anything special, except dim lighting, spraying and regular watering. It is also not recommended to leave it in the cold for a long time. Ideally, the temperature in the room where the syngonium grows should not fall below +17 °C. But since in residential premises it usually does not fall lower, you should like the syngonium.

This is very unusual plant, whose leaves resemble peas. The ragwort accumulates moisture in them, so it needs to be watered quite rarely. Plant the ragwort in soil for succulents, and place the pot in a well-lit place, but not in direct sunlight. However, lack of light, like dry air and cool room temperature, will not kill it.

Loach, which loves plenty of watering and spraying, is ideal for beginning gardeners. It is almost impossible to destroy it: in unfavorable conditions Epipremnum will shed its leaves and grow poorly, but as soon as access to water and light is restored, it will instantly resurrect.

This is a nice compact plant with striped leaves, reminiscent of the color. In other types of peperomia (and there are more than a thousand of them), the shape and color of the leaves are different, so you can choose the one you like. All the peperomia needs is room temperature, diffuse light or partial shade, as well as moderate watering when the soil in the pot begins to dry out. Like other plants, it is watered less often in winter than in summer. It is also advisable to spray peperomia in the summer months.

This funny little succulent with a predatory color is very hardy and unpretentious. He is accustomed to droughts, so he will not notice if you forget to water him. In winter, you can practically not water it at all - this should be done only if the leaves begin to lose their elasticity. Haworthia loves bright, diffused light, but it is still not worth exposing it to the scorching sun. But the coolness does not threaten her.

The best place for chlorophytum is on the window - it loves bright, non-burning sunlight. But even if you deprive him of this joy and push him into a dark corner, with regular watering he will survive there too. In summer you can water chlorophytum once every three days, and in winter - less often and little by little. He doesn't need more.

Gasteria is a shade-tolerant plant, but diffused light will still not hurt it. At the same time, gasteria has nothing against dry air and temperature drops to +6 °C. This plant needs to be watered when the soil in the pot dries out. In winter, one or two waterings per month are enough. Gasteria loves Fresh air, but without drafts.

12. Graptopetalum paraguayan (stone rose)

It is thermophilic and light-loving plant, which nevertheless survives at low temperatures above zero. It needs to be watered rarely, and in winter you don’t need to water it at all.

13. Crassula (money tree)

Whether this plant really promotes the growth of its host is unknown to science, but it certainly enlivens the interior of even the most unlucky gardeners. It is enough just to water it once a week in summer and once a month in winter, wipe the leaves from dust and ventilate the room from time to time. Crassula loves sunlight, but on especially hot days it is better not to let it fry in the sun for a long time - the leaves may burn.

14. Sedum Morgana

Another plant with an unusual appearance, which is sure to please succulent lovers. Morgan's sedum takes root well on windowsills and loves fresh air. It should be watered very sparingly, as the thick leaves accumulate moisture. The air humidity in the room does not have special significance. The main thing is not to poke your fingers into the plant, as its leaves easily break off and nothing grows in their place.

Our grandmothers loved this plant not only for bright flowers, but also for its amazing unpretentiousness. Geranium tolerates cold weather, bright sunlight, dry air and lack of transplants. Geranium does not need to be sprayed, but it is advisable to water it frequently and abundantly.

This hanging plant, which is best planted in hanging pot. It grows quickly, tolerates temperature changes and infrequent watering, and is tolerant of direct sunlight and lack of lighting. Ceropegia should be planted in a cactus substrate with mandatory drainage at the bottom of the pot.

It is recommended to keep the ficus where it receives a sufficient amount of diffused light. However, even in the shade he feels quite well. Ficus loves warmth, but cool room temperature does not threaten it. As for watering, keep an eye on the soil in the pot: as soon as upper layer Once dry, you can water it. As a rule, once a week is enough. To keep the leaves shiny, wipe them with a damp sponge a couple of times a month.

18. Araucaria variegated (Norfolk pine)

This plant is ideal for those who dream of having a Christmas tree at home. Unlike other conifers, araucaria takes root at home. Ideally, it should be kept in a cool room and exposed to fresh air in the summer. Araucaria loves bright light, but also tolerates shade. It needs to be watered regularly, and in winter the soil in the pot should have time to dry out between waterings. If the room is hot or dry, spray the tree with water.

This cute tree will not cause you much trouble if you provide it with diffused light, a temperature of at least +14 °C, protection from direct sunlight and wet soil. To do this, water the plant 1–2 times a week in summer and 1–2 times every two weeks in winter. And to make your myrsine completely comfortable, spray it and sometimes take it out into the shade and into the fresh air.

This bright plant loves light and fresh air, but does not tolerate direct sunlight. It is recommended to keep the tolmia in a room with humid air and regularly water it with a small amount of water, preventing the soil in the pot from drying out. There is no need to spray it, and no other care is required.

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Not a single person purchasing indoor plant, does not plan for his death. Moreover, most indoor plants die from the goodwill of their owners.

The premises have an artificial climate, and all indoor plants require an acclimatization period. So expect them to shed some of their leaves initially.

The best thing you can do for a houseplant is to learn a little about caring for it and try to create conditions as close to the required conditions as possible. If you see a problem emerging, take action quickly.

Drying leaf tips indicate lack of moisture.

And now about reliable ways to kill your indoor plants:

1. Overflow

Killer No. 1 is overwatering, which leads to root rot.

In fact, there are not many ways to express your feelings for plants, so a number of gardeners express their tender loving care by watering their plants on every occasion. Plants take in air through their roots, and if the soil is constantly wet, they cannot do this. Instead, you promote root rot, which kills the plant.

Don't automatically water indoor plants on a schedule. Before watering, check that the soil is dry to a depth of 2-3 cm. When watering, water completely until water begins to come out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot. This procedure will prevent drying out of the tips of the leaves, which appear both when underwatered and when overwatered. frequent watering.

Don't let your plants sit in water either. If you add humidity with a pebble tray filled with water, make sure the water level in the tray is below the bottom of the pot.

2. Improper watering and the formation of salt deposits

Sufficient watering potted plants When the soil gets wet but water does not drain from the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot, it can cause salt deposits to form, preventing your plants from growing properly. You may not notice it until you see a whitish coating on the surface of the soil or the edges of the pot.
At least once a month, ensure that the soil in your houseplant pots is thoroughly drained to allow excess salts to be flushed out of the soil through the drainage hole at the bottom of the pot.

3. Low humidity

Lack of humidity is the culprit in the death of many plants, especially in winter. The initial symptom is drying of the leaf tips. Then the plant begins to wither, shrink, or simply shed its leaves. The change in humidity levels between summer and winter is quite large, and for those plants that were on outdoors, and will winter indoors even more.

To provide required level humidity for indoor plants, first find out what exactly they like. If you have dry room, you can increase the humidity around your plants by placing a tray of pebbles under the pot and filling it with water to the bottom of the pot. Don't let your plants sit directly in the water or you'll create another problem.

You can also mist your plants daily. If you have a lot of indoor plants, you may want to invest in a humidifier. It will also have a beneficial effect on your skin and even wooden furniture.

4. Lack of light

Plants that do not receive enough light appear pale, new growth is thin and stretches towards the light, and new leaves are smaller than usual.

Determining the amount of light your houseplants need is as elusive as the amount of water. You just have to find out general information about your plant, and determine required amount light in practice using the trial and error method.

Most houseplants do not like to be in direct sunlight on a windowsill. Strong sunlight can cause their leaves to burn. Only some plants that tolerate bright direct sunlight, including cyclamen, gardenia, geranium and a number of others grown for their flowering, should be placed on south-facing windows. For plants that prefer low level lighting (for example, philodendron), it is better to find a place in the room where only indirect rays of the sun fall. Between these two extremes are all the other houseplants whose specific preferences you should find out.

South- and west-facing windows are suitable for most houseplants, but if you have a lot of light in your home, you can also keep plants off window sills.

The idea is to wait until the plant shows signs of stress. Plants that lack light appear pale compared to their healthy counterparts. They begin to stretch towards the sun and their new leaves are smaller than usual. If this happens, move the plant to a more sunny place and try not to kill him with your love during the adaptation period.

5. Drafts

Most plants thrive at the same temperatures as humans. This is why they have gained popularity as indoor plants. They even like the slight drop in temperature in the evenings.

What they can't handle is cold drafts. Placing a houseplant, especially a tropical or flowering one, near a frequently opened door or too close to an uninsulated window can have the same effect as leaving it exposed outdoors. First you notice the leaves falling off and the plant looks as if it is not getting enough water, although in fact it needs warmth. Regular or long-term exposure cold temperature leads to the death of the plant.

6. Overheat

Placing your houseplant near a direct heat source, such as a radiator or fireplace, will not only fry your plant, but will also speed up its dehydration.

Many gardeners believe that they are doing a houseplant a favor by placing it in a warm place. But, in fact, the plant becomes dehydrated very quickly. Even if you water it very diligently, the leaves dry out very quickly. If your house is cool and you want to add extra warmth to your plants, insulate them from the heat source by installing a thick barrier between the heat source and the pots.

7. Ignoring the pest problem

Indoor pests spread very quickly because they are absent natural enemies. Therefore, you will have to carefully look for symptoms of damage. Scale insects, scale insects, and aphids can cover plants in a matter of days. At a severe stage of damage, the plant may not recover.

8. Untimely transplant

Sooner or later, any healthy indoor plant grows so large that the pot becomes cramped. When a plant grows out of its pot, its roots curl inwards in a circle and begin to limit themselves. The soil in pots of plants with such intertwined roots becomes dry faster than that of normal ones. Because of more roots in the soil, it is not enough for normal nutrition and water distribution.

This problem is easy to solve. Transplant your plant into a pot whose diameter is 2.5 - 5 cm larger. Do not try to replant into one that is too large new pot. If there is too much soil, the roots will be in wet soil and will begin to rot.

Crab12 11-06-2013 01:26

Napalm and asphalting are not suggested.

Udavilov 11-06-2013 01:39

working off. oil

HARON 11-06-2013 02:14

petroleum products are not environmentally friendly... or maybe we shouldn’t kill them? purpose of the strip?
if you poison...maybe periodically water it with something like a run-up? Utility workers have mixtures, they cut everything - from shoots to grass... or sprinkle salt, or spill urine

Stepochka 11-06-2013 12:43

This is my second year using Ground Bio. It destroys weeds and does not affect the root systems of useful crops. I treat 2 flower beds, the sides of beds and the walls of ditches. The vegetation turns yellow and dries out. Autumn treatment is enough to this day!

mukdiver 11-06-2013 13:22

1Roundup 1000

2garik 11-06-2013 15:23

20% acid will definitely not grow for a couple of years.

Otorva 11-06-2013 15:47

round up
but if it gets on the leaves of an apple tree, then it’s also kirdyk

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- Burn the witch! - But she’s so beautiful... - Okay... but then burn it

zubrilov 11-06-2013 15:57

I don’t know what kind of poison the railway workers use to treat the linen, but for several years nothing has grown. Ask them.

Nahum 11-06-2013 16:03

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