How to make galvanized pipes with your own hands. How to make a galvanized pipe with your own hands? How to properly make the necessary parts from tin

Home builders try to select the most suitable solutions for problems. budget options. Therefore, the question of how to make a pipe from tin with your own hands is relevant for many amateur craftsmen. After all, a homemade pipe product made from tin can be compared with gutters or casings that are on the shelves in specialized stores.

Therefore, you need to learn in more detail the process of manufacturing a tin pipe that has characteristics similar to factory products.

Features of the source material

Before you start making a pipe from a sheet of metal, you should become more familiar with the material from which the pipe will be made and its features. To begin with, it is worth saying that this is a rolling type product, in other words, tin is a sheet of steel that has passed through the rollers of a rolling mill and has a thickness of 0.1-0.7 mm.

In addition to rolling operations, the technology for producing tin plates involves processing the finished rolled products to prevent the formation of corrosive processes. To do this, a layer of material is applied to the steel after rolling, which is not susceptible to corrosion.

The result of the performed actions is a steel sheet, the width of which can vary from 512 to 1000 mm, with a chrome or zinc coating. The finished product is flexible, so tin can easily be manual processing. At the same time, rolled stiffeners can be compared in strength to steel products. This allows the use of tin in the manufacture of products of complex designs.

Required Tools

The list of tools and devices necessary for making a galvanized chimney pipe with your own hands is determined by the properties of tin, in particular softness and ductility. Processing this type of material does not require the special efforts required to work with sheet materials.

Therefore, during production tin pipes The following set of tools is required for the chimney:

• Scissors for cutting metal. This tool makes it easy to cut sheet material into the required pieces, since the largest thickness of the sheet reaches 0.7 mm.
• Hammer with a soft striker. You can also use a wooden hammer, mallet, or a steel tool with a soft rubber grip. However last option used very carefully or not at all, as it can cause deformation thin sheet tin and ruin all the work.
• Pliers. With the help of this tool they solve the problem of how to bend a pipe made of tin, because it is steel, although thin, therefore it is impossible to bend it with your hands.
• Crafting table. This device is necessary when cutting material and when applying markings.
• Calibration element. This can be a pipe product with a diameter of more than 10 centimeters, as well as a corner with edges of 7.5 centimeters. These elements must be well secured, since the joining seam will be riveted on their surface.

In addition to these tools, you should prepare a ruler or tape measure and a marker, which is a steel rod with a sharp sharpening.

Instructions for making a tin pipe with your own hands

The production of tinplate products, including pipes, takes place in three stages:

• Preparatory work involves marking the workpiece and cutting it out of a sheet of tin.
• Forming involves shaping the profile of a pipe or other product.
• In the finale, the opposite edges of the workpiece are connected.

And now more detailed description each stage of making tin pipes with your own hands.

Preparatory stage

First, markings are applied to the sheet of tin, according to which the semi-finished product will be cut. In other words, the necessary part is cut from a certain sheet of tin, from which the contour of the future pipe will be formed. The marking process is carried out as follows: the sheet metal is laid out on a workbench and a segment equal to the length of the pipe is measured from the top edge. A mark is placed here with a marker.

Then, using a square, draw a line along this mark perpendicular to the side edge. Now along this line the circumference of the pipe, the same is done along the upper edge. In this case, about 1.5 cm is added on both edges to form the joining edges. The upper and lower marks are connected and the workpiece is cut out.

To determine the circumference, you can use a tape measure, or you can remember your school geometry course.

How to make a pipe body from tin

The purpose of this stage is to form the pipe profile. A line is drawn along the length of the workpiece at the bottom and top along which the folds will be folded. In this case, 5 mm are measured on one side, and 10 mm on the other. The folds must be bent at an angle of 90 0. To do this, the workpiece is laid on a steel angle, aligning the fold line with the edge of the angle. Hitting the edge with a mallet, bend it towards perpendicular side corner.

Now, on the fold, the size of which is 10 mm, another fold of the fold is made to form a kind of letter G. In the process of bending the fold, you need to ensure that the upper bend is parallel to the workpiece, and its length is 5 millimeters. Therefore, when drawing a fold line, measure 0.5 cm once on one side, and 0.5 cm twice on the other side.

Having completed the molding of the folds, you can proceed to the formation of the pipe body. To do this, place the workpiece sheet on the calibrating element and start tapping it with a mallet or other suitable tool to obtain a profile a certain shape. The workpiece first takes on a U-shape and then becomes round. In this case, the folds should join together.

Processing the seam joint

The final stage involves processing the joining seam, that is, crimping it. To do this, the upper part of the L-shaped fold is folded down, wrapping the edge of the other fold. The result should be a kind of sandwich located perpendicular to the pipe. To obtain a joining seam, you need to press the sandwich to the product.

For greater reliability, the joining seam is strengthened using rivets. However, do-it-yourself tin pipes using this joining method do not require additional reinforcement.

Good day, dear guest!

The first sheet with galvanic coating came off the assembly line of one of the British factories back in 1867. True, at that time the metal was covered exclusively with gold and silver. But before the First World War, the production of parts with a protective layer of zinc began to be produced, and since then they have been incredibly popular.

This is not surprising - zinc extends the life of iron by 20-30 times. Products made of galvanized steel are durable, do not rust, and behave in everyday life no worse than stainless steel, although they are much cheaper.

In today’s article, I propose to pay more attention to this modest material and tell you how to make a galvanized pipe with your own hands.

Galvanization is primarily steel, a material that has many undeniable advantages.

These include:

• Strength;
• Ability to withstand high temperatures;
• Excellent thermal conductivity;
• Low cost compared to other materials.

But without protective coating Ferrous metal is susceptible to corrosion, quickly rusts and becomes unusable. Galvanizing successfully solved this problem. And, despite the fact that galvanized and steel pipes are the same in shape, the galvanized product has a number of advantages.

Additional advantages of galvanized products:

1. Corrosion resistance, ability to withstand negative impacts environment;
2. Increased service life;
3. Increased strength;
4. Wide operating temperature range;
5. High resistance to mechanical stress;
6. Galvanized pipe can withstand high internal and external pressure;
7. Simplicity and ease of installation;
8. High resistance to fire;
9. Zinc kills all pathogenic microorganisms;
10. Galvanization is practically not inferior in quality to low-alloy stainless steel, but costs an order of magnitude less.

But like any engineering solution, galvanized iron pipeline is not ideal.

Disadvantages of the product:

• Not very attractive design;
• Expensive compared to conventional steel;
• Zinc complicates the welding process;
• Unlike plastic, if there are protrusions on the walls, it is almost impossible to ensure a smooth transition into structures made of galvanized pipes.

Make it yourself or order it

What is better, buy galvanized sheet required thickness and bend the pipe yourself, or go to the store and buy a finished product?

As usual, let's start with the price. A finished pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a length of 3 meters will cost you and me about 500 rubles.

Cost of material in in this case- 150 rubles, the rest is labor costs and the seller’s markup.

And if you plan to organize the whole system drain? You can see for yourself that you will have to overpay 2.5-3 times for finished products. Making pipes yourself will greatly ease the financial burden.

In addition, factory products have strictly defined dimensions, and sometimes it is difficult to choose the right one for your system. And the thickness of the finished pipe usually does not exceed 1 mm.

You should definitely remember that any factory-made product, unlike a home-made one, undergoes strict quality control control, has a perfectly round surface and a precision weld.

Will he be able to House master Ensuring compliance with all these conditions is far from a fact.

Which material to choose

If you have decided to make the part yourself, you should start by choosing the material, in our case, a galvanized sheet of the required thickness.

Material characteristics

Thin sheet steel coated with zinc in the factory must comply with GOST 14918-80. Main characteristics that you should pay attention to when choosing:

• Sheet thickness

The most common galvanizing thicknesses are from 0.35 to 3mm. The thinner the sheet, the easier it is to process, which is important for making products at home. But don’t forget – less thickness means less strength.

• Zinc coating thickness

There are 3 classes of material, in accordance with the thickness of the zinc coating layer. Let's summarize the data in a table for convenience.

GOST allows some deviations in thickness and the presence of some defects

Marking:

• NR – normal thickness variation;
• UR – reduced thickness variation.

Options appearance sheet:

• KR – With crystallization patterns (some cracks and darkening);
• MT - without patterns.

An important characteristic for the manufacture of pipes is the ability metal sheet to the hood:

• N – normal hood;
• G – deep drawing;
• VG – very deep drawing.

Steels marked VG have the highest ductility, N - correspondingly the lowest.

What you need for work

After purchasing a sheet with the necessary characteristics, you should stock up on the necessary equipment.

Required tools:

• Metal scissors. Choose handy tool for cutting wide sheets of metal;
• A hand jackhammer (also known as a mallet) with a rubber or wooden tip. The mallet should be hard, heavy, but without sharp edges;
• Steel pipe blank for molding the pipe body (“gun”). Its length is at least 1 meter, its diameter depends on the required diameter finished product;
• Ruler;
• Tool for marking galvanized steel (sharp metal rod);
• Crafting table. At the corner of the workbench there should be a metal corner, at least 1 m long. It will be used to bend the edges of the pipe, so it must be fastened very securely;
• Pliers.

Step-by-step instructions for making a galvanized pipe with your own hands

Size calculation

A standard galvanized sheet sheet has dimensions of 1000x2000mm, or 1250x2500mm, although other cuts can be found.

The width of the workpiece is calculated using the formula:

L (circumference, also known as the width of the workpiece) = 2*3.14*R (R is the required pipe radius, mm).

Thus, to make a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, you will need a blank with a width

2x3.14x50mm = 314mm.

To the resulting finishing length we add a bend of 15mm and get the required value for cutting -300mm.

An important point is that the width of the workpiece is not a constant value. On one side it is 330mm, on the other 340 (for a pipe with a diameter of 100mm). This is done for the convenience of subsequent installation of pipes with each other or with other elements of the system.

Drawing and diagram

Rice. 1. Pattern of a sheet for a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm.

The fold formation scheme looks like this:

Cutting out the workpiece

After calculation required sizes the blank of the future product is cut out. For this:

• A sheet of tin is laid out on a horizontal surface, markings are applied in straight lines, strictly according to the dimensions of the semi-finished product.

For a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, along one edge of the sheet, sections of 340 and 330 mm are measured one after another (see Fig. 1). The same segments, but in the opposite sequence, are marked on the opposite side. All perpendicular lines should be drawn using a square.

Don't forget to add 15-20mm to the width of the product on the bend!

• The tin is cut into rectangles according to the drawing.

Formation of a profile

The resulting rectangular blanks must be “transformed” into a pipe. To do this, we will create her profile.

Stages of profile formation:

• Along the entire length of the workpiece, with an indentation of 5 mm on one edge and 10 mm on the other, two lines are drawn. These lines are the boundaries of the folds.

In our case, a seam or a seam lock means a type of connection between the edges of a pipe;

• We bend the edges along the marked line, strictly at an angle of 90 0. We use a metal corner for this, aligning the fold line with the edge of the corner. We start with pliers, continue with a mallet;
• We pass the hammer along the entire length, gradually forming the future seam;
• On a 10mm wide bend we make another bend in the shape of the letter G. The width of the top bar is 5mm, the location is strictly parallel to the workpiece;
• After forming the folds, we move on to the pipe body. We place the workpiece on the gun and use a hammer to give the sheet a round shape.

Processing the butt seam

The final stage is processing (crimping) the butt seam. To do this, bend the upper part of the L-shaped fold down, wrapping it around the opposite edge. The result is a fold of several layers of metal, which must be pressed against the pipe along its entire length.

In the factory, additional strength is added to the seam using special metal rivets.

For handmade products, additional processing not required.

Production video

Check out useful videos on this topic.

Pipe making:

Inserting a pipe into a plane:

To make it easier to connect the finished pipe with other elements of the system, it is necessary to make a socket at the end of the product.

How to make a socket on a galvanized metal pipe

A bell is a technological extension designed for the convenience of installing communication elements with each other and inserting them into a plane. The socket on the finished pipe is made along a wide edge, using the method of flaring the edge to a depth of 15-20mm. In the factory, a special tool is used for flaring - a rolling cone.

At home, you can expand the edge of the pipe yourself using pliers. Ideally, install special rings—stiffening ribs—at the ends of the workpiece.

Fig.3. Flaring diagram:

Features of working with tin

Galvanized sheet metal is an inexpensive and reliable material. Its main feature is its small thickness (most often at home, a sheet with a thickness of 0.3 to 1 mm is used) and plasticity. Due to its softness, it is convenient to work with galvanizing and make required product Even a novice tinsmith will not have much difficulty doing it on his own.

At the same time, despite the softness of the steel, the resulting seam seam is very reliable and can withstand significant mechanical stress.

Conclusion

The scope of application of galvanized pipes is extensive. They are used for drainage, chimneys, and ventilation systems, so the ability to make parts yourself will definitely not be superfluous.

Personally, I believe that any skill learned is always useful. That’s why I’m waiting for you in our group and communities. Lessons, training videos, expert advice - everything is there. Join us!

Galvanized steel pipes are an integral element drainage system any home. Purchasing ready-made gutters is quite expensive. How you can make drainpipes yourself and thereby save significant money cash, is discussed in this article.

Buying ready-made elements of a drainage system is quite expensive. For example, a gutter made of galvanized metal costs about 100 rubles/m, a drainage funnel costs 160 rubles/piece, a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm costs 110 rubles/m, an elbow for drainpipe— 110 rub./pcs. If you calculate the cost of all the elements necessary to equip a drainage system for the whole house, you will get a rather impressive amount. The natural question is how to save money? The answer is simple - do all the elements yourself.

Let's do the math. Galvanized iron is required for the drainpipe. The price for a sheet of 2500x1250 mm is 600 rubles. To make a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, you need a strip of metal 340 mm wide - this is, in fact, the length of a circle with a diameter of 100 mm, plus bends. One sheet produces 7 stripes with this width. We get: 600 / 7 = 85 rub. for a pipe 1250 mm long, or 68 rubles/m - the cost of one meter of galvanized pipe. Save more than 60%! On other elements it will be even greater.

If the above calculations convince you of the need to learn self-production galvanized pipes and other elements made of sheet metal, then let's start learning. You need to start with the simplest thing - with pipes. How this is done will be discussed in this article.

Required tools and materials

In order to make a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, we will need the following tools and materials:

1. Wooden or rubber mallet. Generally speaking, the quality of the finished product will primarily depend on the quality of this tool. The mallet should be heavy enough, but such that it is easy to control the force of impact, not very hard, but at the same time dense enough.
2. Metal scissors. Any will do, the main thing is that they are convenient for cutting metal on large surfaces.
3. A metal corner at least 1 m long, installed on the edge of the workbench. It is on it that the metal will be bent, so it must be stable and quite massive.
4. A steel pipe with a diameter of 60-90 mm, fixed horizontally - a “gun”. Products will be assembled there. Accordingly, its length should also not be less than 1 m.
5. Ruler.
6. Metal scriber. Any sharpened metal rod, up to a large nail, will do.
7. Actually, the sheet of galvanized metal itself is 0.5 mm thick.

We make a galvanized iron pipe with a diameter of 100 mm

1. Cut a blank from a solid sheet of metal with a width of 340 mm on one side and 330 mm on the other. The strip is narrowed so that the finished pipe fits into the next one according to the “male-male” principle.

It makes sense to immediately mark the entire sheet and lay down the segments on each side in turn - on one side 340 mm, 330 mm, 340 mm, 330 mm and so on, on the other, respectively, 330 mm, 340 mm, 330 mm, 340 mm. If you do not plan to connect the finished pipes to each other or other elements, then mark out rectangles with sides of 340 mm.

2. We begin to make seams for the pipe on both meter sides. To do this on metal corner use a mallet to bend the edges of the sheet 7 mm on both sides, 90° in different sides relative to each other.

3. Turn the workpiece over, turn the corner up and use a mallet to achieve the angle to approximately 130-150°.

4. Make another bend. The workpiece should protrude 1 cm from the corner. Using a mallet, tap along the entire length of the corner. The blows must be strong, dense and confident. In this case, the mallet must lie clearly on the plane of the corner, without deviating either to the left or to the right, otherwise the seam will simply flatten.

5. The end result will be a sheet with the following folds along the edges:

6. We squeeze the workpiece around the “gun” pipe with our hands.

7. We hook both bends to each other.

8. We put the workpiece on the “gun” pipe and hit it with a mallet at the place where the corners meet until they are completely flattened.

9. The pipe is ready.

10. Ideally, you can slightly flare the pipe on the wide side to facilitate joining with each other, and roll rings on both ends to ensure rigidity; however, the resulting pipe is suitable for use. If no mistakes are made during marking, then it will easily fit with other elements, including factory-made ones.

Finally, it should be noted that gutters are not the only use for such pipes. Ventilation systems, various chimneys - galvanized pipes will find their use everywhere, so the ability to make them yourself will serve you well in saving money more than once.

Despite the many different tin blanks that are sold in construction supermarkets, sometimes when installing gutters, ventilation or other similar engineering systems there is a need to install parts of a non-standard configuration or size. That’s why many home craftsmen are interested in how to make a pipe from tin with their own hands.

Features of the material used

Before starting work, it is advisable to carefully familiarize yourself with the features of the material from which the pipe is supposed to be constructed. Tin is common leaf steel with a thickness of 0.1 to 0.7 mm. It is formed by sequentially rolling the workpiece through the rollers of a rolling mill.

However, the processing does not end there. In order to protect the resulting sheet from corrosion, it must be coated with a layer of another substance that does not oxidize in air.

As a result to the warehouse finished products arrive steel sheets, the width of which, according to GOST, can be 51.2-100 cm, coated with an ultra-thin layer of zinc, chromium or tin.

Note!
The material turns out to be very plastic, which allows it to be processed at home.
On the other hand, when arranging stiffeners, you can get a structure that is not inferior in strength to thicker steel.

Considering that the price of tin is also low, it is often used to manufacture many different parts of complex shapes.

Required Tools

Cutting and bending sheets of tin does not require much effort. However, it would be a good idea to arm yourself special tools and devices, the list of which is given in the table.

Tool	Purpose
Metal scissors	Used to cut sheet metal into blanks the right size. Maximum thickness The material, as you know, is 0.7 mm, so it is enough to apply only a slight muscular effort.
Kiyanka	You can replace it with a rubber hammer, as well as a steel tool with rubber pads that do not leave dents on the tin during use.
Pliers	Used to make bends. Can be replaced with pliers.
Crafting table	For marking and cutting, it is necessary to place a sheet of tin on flat surface. Best to use carpentry workbench, but cutting can also be done on a floor cleared of large debris.
Calibrating elements	Their role is played by a thick-walled steel pipe with a diameter of about 100 mm (or wood round section) and a steel corner 75 mm wide. It is secured to the edge of the workbench or clamped in a carpenter's vice. The pipe will be needed to make a longitudinal pipe seam.
Marker	Used for marking sheet metal. It is a thin steel rod with a sharp end.
Measuring tool	This includes rulers, tape measures, squares and other similar devices.

Work process

Let's start making a pipe from tin with our own hands.

The whole process can be divided into several main stages:

1. Preparation. This includes marking the product and cutting out individual blanks from a piece of tin.
2. Molding. At this stage, the initial formation of a circular pipe occurs.
3. Compound. Here it is necessary to finally sew the parts into the finished product.

Let's look at each of them in more detail.

Step 1. Preparation

No complicated instructions are needed here, everything is very simple:

• the sheet is placed on a flat area (workbench or floor);
• a segment equal to the length of the future pipe is measured from the top edge (marks can be made with a marker or a special marker);
• then a line is drawn through the mark using a square, perpendicular to the top edge of the sheet;
• on the upper edge and the line drawn at the bottom, the width of the workpiece is measured, which is equal to the circumference of the pipe (and 15 mm must be added to this parameter to arrange the joint);
• All marks are connected, after which the workpiece is cut along the resulting lines.

Advice!
Knowing the diameter of the pipe, you can easily calculate the circumference (width of the workpiece) using well-known formula L = π D, where π – 3.14, D – diameter of the future part.

Step 2: Molding

After receiving the workpiece, it is necessary to form a round profile of the future pipe.

Here the work is done like this:

1. The line for the folds is marked. Its width is 0.5 cm on one side and 1 on the other. The folds are bent at an angle of 90 degrees to the plane of the sheet metal. To do this, you can use a steel angle and a mallet.

A sheet of tin is placed on the edge of the table, offset to the desired length, then struck rubber mallet its edge is carefully bent. At the end of the work, it should be in close contact with the bottom plane of the angle.

Work should be done evenly along the entire length of the workpiece. To make the procedure easier, you can use pliers.

1. Then another bend is made on the centimeter fold in the shape of the letter G. The upper part (its width should be 0.5 cm) must be made parallel to the sheet of tin. It is advisable to make markings for this bend in advance.

1. After finishing work with the folds, we move on to working on the pipe itself. For this, a pre-stocked round part is used. Having placed a sheet of tin on it, you should use a mallet to give it rounded shape. This should be done gradually along the entire length of the sheet until the folded edges meet.

Step 3. Docking

All that remains is to align the edges and secure the seam. To do this, the horizontal section of the larger fold is folded down, covering the opposite edge. Then the protruding seam is bent to the plane of the pipe using a mallet.

August 9, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and repair (full cycle of finishing works, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrical and finishing works), installation of window structures. Hobbies: see the column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

Making a pipe from tin with your own hands is an excellent alternative to buying an expensive drain or ventilation casing. In practice, the savings turn out to be colossal, and if you consider that having mastered the technology, you can literally “stamp” pipes of any (okay, almost any) diameter - then it’s definitely worth reading my tips and at least trying to implement them in practice!

Below I will talk about what we need to form the pipe, and also describe the algorithm by which I have been successfully bending tin products for five years.

What do we need to work?

Tough as it is

So, let's start our review of the technology with an analysis of the material. We will bend a pipe from tin:

1. The basis of the tin sheet is steel, processed on rolling mill. As a rule, sheets from 0.1 to 0.7 mm are found on sale - the thicker, the higher the price.

1. To protect against corrosion, the steel base of the tin blank is coated with a material that prevents oxidation of the metal. Most often, compounds of chromium, tin and zinc are used for this.
2. On final stage the product is cut according to standard sizes. Most often in construction stores Tin blanks with widths from 512 mm to 2 m are sold, but if necessary, you can find or order wider parts.

This metal has obvious advantages:

1. The small thickness ensures a reduction in the weight of tin products.
2. Surface treatment quite effectively protects the steel base from corrosion upon contact with environmental factors.
3. Thin metal is cut well, and very powerful tools are not required for processing - hand scissors are quite sufficient.
4. Rolling and heat treatment of blanks during sheet metal production provide them with high ductility. Thanks to this, sheets and strips bend perfectly along a minimum radius without the risk of cracking.

The downside of tin is its low bending strength, therefore, when producing open parts, stiffening ribs must be added to their design. However, this does not concern our situation: the pipe itself holds its shape perfectly.

Tinsmith's tools

As I already noted, tin is a soft and plastic material that is processed quite simply. But this simplicity also has a drawback: metal tool not only leaves marks on the surface of the sheet metal, but can also damage the protective layer, triggering the development of corrosion.

That is why the following tools are used to work with tin and thin galvanized steel:

• metal scissors. I use the most common, spring-loaded ones with not very long handles - with relatively little effort they cut 0.7 mm steel perfectly;

It is very important that the blades of the scissors are sharp, otherwise the edges of the workpieces will turn out uneven, and we will have to spend time and effort removing the “fringe”.

• hammer with a rubber/rubber-coated striker. Why rubber is needed is already clear - to prevent metal from hitting metal;

• mallet - in principle, performs the function of a hammer with a rubber attachment. Both tools are interchangeable, which does not prevent me from having both a mallet and a hammer at my disposal;

• pliers (several pieces, different sizes). They are used for bending metal, since it is impossible to grasp the short edges of a sheet or strip with your fingers, despite all its plasticity;

• calibrating blanks – steel pipes(I have two, with a diameter of 50 and 100 mm) and corners. Used as templates for bending round and rectangular parts, respectively;
• measuring instruments - ruler, tape measure, level and compass;
• Marker - a sharpened steel rod that is used to mark tin sheet. You can buy or sharpen a two-hundred nail.

• workbench - the most necessary thing. The workbench functions as a place for marking the cutting stand, a work table - in general, it is on it that we will perform all the work.

Of course, this set will only be enough for us to make several pipes - up to two or three dozen. If the work is large-scale, then you cannot do without at least a sheet bender - a device that allows you to bend large metal blanks evenly.

Work technology

Step 1. Preparation

The instructions for making a pipe from tin begin with a description of the preparation of the workpiece:

1. On a workbench or other flat surface we roll out sheet metal, leveling it using mechanical action if necessary.
2. We measure the length and width of the pipe by marking the material with chalk, marker or marker. When marking, take into account that the width of the workpiece should be equal to length pipe circumference + 1.5…1.6 cm for seam formation.
3. We control the perpendicularity of the drawn lines using a square.

1. We take scissors and make first a side and then a longitudinal cut. You need to cut strictly along the lines, trying not to make large indents. If the cut line “walks”, problems may arise at the stage of seam formation.
2. Once again we level our workpiece. If necessary, we tap the edges to remove waves and process them, removing burrs.

Step 2. Pipe Forming

Now we need to make from the blank round pipe. And at the first stage we create a profile:

1. On one side of the part we draw a fold line at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge.
2. On the other side we draw the same line at a distance of 1 cm.

1. We place the workpiece on a steel corner and bend the folds perpendicular to the plane of the sheet. To bend, use a mallet, adjusting the metal with pliers if necessary.

1. I usually do this: first I grab the metal with pliers, forming a bend about 2-3 cm wide. After the direction of deformation has been set, I change the pliers to a mallet and continue working, using a steel template as a support.
2. When working according to a template, we do not apply excessive force, otherwise we risk damaging the material and “scraping off” part of the protective coating,
3. Next, we divide the bent fold 1 cm wide in half along the width and repeat the fold. Now we need to bend a strip 0.5 cm wide parallel to the main workpiece.

1. Now we form the pipe profile. We place the workpiece on the calibrating surface and tap it, first bending an arc, and then a full circle. The smoother it is, the better - there will be less fiddling around at the final stage of work.

Step 3. Processing the joint

Now we need to form a seam that will turn our workpiece into the actual pipe:

1. We combine the folds, bent perpendicular to the main part, pressing them tightly against each other.

1. We bend the horizontal part of the long fold so that it wraps around the combined parts.
2. We stack the received three-layer construction onto the workbench and carefully tap it, compacting it thoroughly. At the same time, we make sure that there are no distortions that will negatively affect the strength of the structure.

1. We bend the seam from the folds assembled together towards the pipe wall. We put the product on the calibration blank and tap the joint again. The resulting connection holds perfectly without any fasteners due to the plasticity of the sheet metal.

In the manufacture of pipes large diameter those experiencing significant loads, the width of the folds can be increased, and the joint can be further strengthened with rivets.

Conclusion

I hope that in the above material I explained in sufficient detail how to make a tin pipe with your own hands. If any of the operations causes difficulties, you can always either watch the video in this article or ask me a question in the comments. Of course, I won’t bend metal for you, but good advice I will definitely help!